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Summary of Content
Factory Workshop Manual
Make
Chevrolet
Model
Malibu
Engine and year
V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997)
Please navigate through the PDF using the options
provided by OnlyManuals.com on the sidebar.
This manual was submitted by
Anonymous
Date
1st January 2018
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment >
Emergency Contact Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > OnStar(R) - Analog Only Systems
Information
Emergency Contact Module: Technical Service Bulletins OnStar(R) - Analog Only Systems
Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 06-08-64-007A
Date: September 22, 2008
Subject: Information on OnStar(R) Analog-Only Systems
Models
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the models affected list above. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 06-08-46-007 (Section 08 - Body & Accessories).
All vehicles equipped with OnStar(R) listed in this bulletin were built with Analog-Only OnStar(R)
Hardware. OnStar(R) equipped vehicles with analog-only equipment were designed to operate only
on the analog wireless network and cannot be upgraded for digital network compatibility.
Vehicles with this equipment will no longer be able to receive OnStar(R) services beginning
January 1, 2008. At that time, service will be available only through Dual-Mode (Analog / Digital)
equipment. Analog-Only vehicles cannot be upgraded to digital equipment.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment >
Emergency Contact Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > OnStar(R) - Analog Only Systems
Information > Page 8
Emergency Contact Module: Technical Service Bulletins OnStar(R) - Aftermarket Device
Interference Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-08-46-004
Date: August 14, 2008
Subject: Information on Aftermarket Device Interference with OnStar(R) Diagnostic Services
Models: 2009 and Prior GM Passenger Car and Truck (including Saturn) 2009 and Prior HUMMER
H2, H3 Models 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
with OnStar(R) (RPO UE1)
This bulletin is being issued to provide dealer service personnel with information regarding
aftermarket devices connected to the Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC) and the impact to
OnStar(R) diagnostic probes and Vehicle Diagnostic e-mails.
Certain aftermarket devices, when connected to the Diagnostic Link Connector, such as, but not
limited to, Scan Tools, Trip Computers, Fuel Economy Analyzers and Insurance Tracking Devices,
interfere with OnStar's ability to perform a diagnostic probe when requested (via a blue button call)
by a subscriber. These devices also prohibit the ability to gather diagnostic and tire pressure data
for a subscriber's scheduled OnStar(R) Vehicle Diagnostic (OVD) e-mail.
These aftermarket devices utilize the Vehicles serial data bus to perform data requests and/or
information gathering. When these devices are requesting data, OnStar(R) is designed not to
interfere with any data request being made by these devices as required by OBD II regulations.
The OnStar(R) advisor is unable to definitively detect the presence of these devices and will only
be able to inform the caller or requester of the unsuccessful or incomplete probe and may in some
cases refer the subscriber/requester to take the vehicle to a dealer for diagnosis of the concern.
When performing a diagnostic check for an unsuccessful or incomplete OnStar(R) diagnostic
probe, or for concerns regarding completeness of the OnStar(R) Vehicle Diagnostic (OVD) e-mail,
verify that an aftermarket device was not present at the time of the requested probe. Regarding the
OVD e-mail, if an aftermarket device is interfering (including a Scan Tool of any type), the e-mail
will consistently display a "yellow" indication in diagnostics section for all vehicle systems except
the OnStar(R) System and Tire Pressure data (not available on all vehicles) will not be displayed
(i.e. section is collapsed). Successful diagnostic probes and complete OVD e-mails will resume
following the removal or disconnecting of the off-board device.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment >
Emergency Contact Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > OnStar(R) - Analog Only Systems
Information > Page 9
Emergency Contact Module: Technical Service Bulletins OnStar - Analog-Only Systems
Information
Bulletin No.: 06-08-46-007
Date: December 13, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Information on OnStar(R) Analog-Only Systems
Models: 1996-2001 GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Plus: 2002 Buick LeSabre, Rendezvous 2002-2003 Buick Century, Regal 2002-2005 Buick Park
Avenue 2002 Cadillac Eldorado, Escalade Models 2002 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado,
Suburban, Tahoe, Venture 2002 GMC Denali, Denali XL, Jimmy, Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL 2002
Oldsmobile Intrigue, Silhouette 2002-2003 Oldsmobile Aurora 2002 Pontiac Aztek, Bonneville,
Montana 2002-2003 Pontiac Grand Prix
with OnStar(R) (RPO UE1)
All vehicles equipped with OnStar(R) listed in this bulletin were built with Analog-Only OnStar(R)
Hardware. OnStar(R) equipped vehicles with analog-only equipment were designed to operate only
on the analog wireless network and cannot be upgraded for digital network compatibility.
Vehicles with this equipment will no longer be able to receive OnStar(R) services beginning
January 1, 2008. At that time, service will be available only through Dual-Mode (Analog/Digital)
equipment. Analog-Only vehicles cannot be upgraded to digital equipment.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 >
Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules
Relay Module: Customer Interest Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 09-06-03-004D
Date: December 08, 2010
Subject: Intermittent No Crank/No Start, No Module Communication, MIL, Warning Lights, Vehicle
Messages or DTCs Set by Various Control Modules - Diagnosing and Repairing Fretting Corrosion
(Disconnect Affected Connector and Apply Dielectric Lubricant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Attention:
This repair can be applied to ANY electrical connection including, but not limited to: lighting, body
electrical, in-line connections, powertrain control sensors, etc. DO NOT over apply lubricant to the
point where it prevents the full engagement of sealed connectors. A light coating on the terminal
surfaces is sufficient to correct the condition.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the Attention statement and add the 2011
model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-06-03-004C (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions:
- An intermittent no crank/no start
- Intermittent malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination
- Intermittent service lamp illumination
- Intermittent service message(s) being displayed
The technician may determine that he is unable to duplicate the intermittent condition.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a buildup of nonconductive insulating oxidized debris known as
fretting corrosion, occurring between two electrical contact surfaces of the connection or connector.
This may be caused by any of the following conditions:
- Vibration
- Thermal cycling
- Poor connection/terminal retention
- Micro motion
- A connector, component or wiring harness not properly secured resulting in movement
On low current signal circuits this condition may cause high resistance, resulting in intermittent
connections.
On high current power circuits this condition may cause permanent increases in the resistance and
may cause a device to become inoperative.
Representative List of Control Modules and Components
The following is only a representative list of control modules and components that may be affected
by this connection or connector condition and DOES NOT include every possible module or
component for every vehicle.
- Blower Control Module
- Body Control Module (BCM)
- Communication Interface Module (CIM)
- Cooling Fan Control Module
- Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
- Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module (EBTCM)
- Electronic Suspension Control (ESC) Module
- Engine Control Module (ECM)
- Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) Control Module
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 >
Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 18
- HVAC Actuator
- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
- Any AIR BAG module
- Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner
- Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner
- An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set:
B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
- Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
- Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Correction
Important DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:
- The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.
- The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can
no longer be duplicated.
Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above.
1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle. Retrieve and record any
existing history or current DTCs from all of the
control modules (refer to SI).
‹› If any DTC(s) are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle to identify the
connector(s) of the control module/component
which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).
‹› If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control
module/component which may be causing the
condition (refer to SI).
2. When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component
Connector End Views and Component Locator
documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) which are causing the
condition.
Note Fretting corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the
actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or
identified without the use of a magnifying glass.
Important DO NOT apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown,
as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors. Use ONLY a clean nylon brush
that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin.
3. With a one-inch nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side
and the harness side of the affected connector(s).
4. Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present.
5. Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information:
- DTC Diagnostic Procedure
- Circuit/System Description
- Conditions for Running the DTC
- Conditions for Setting the DTC
- Diagnostic Aids
- Circuit/System Verification
‹› If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete. ‹› If the condition can be duplicated,
then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI).
Repair Order Documentation
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 >
Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 19
Important The following information MUST be documented on the repair order. Failure to do so
may result in a chargeback.
- Customer vehicle condition.
- Was a Service Lamp or Service Message illuminated? If yes, specify which Service Lamp or
Service Message.
- Was a DTC(s) set? If yes, specify which DTC(s) were set.
- After following the procedure contained within this bulletin, could the condition be duplicated?
‹› If the condition was not duplicated, then document the affected module/component connector
name and number on the repair order.
- If the condition was duplicated after the procedure contained within this bulletin was followed, and
additional diagnosis led to the replacement of a module or component, the SI Document ID
Number MUST be written on the repair order.
Parts Information
Alternate Distributor For All of North America
Note
NyoGel(R) 760G Lubricant* is equivalent to GMSPO P/N 12377900, and P/N 10953529 (Canada),
specified for use to correct the condition in this bulletin.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume
any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be
available from other sources.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 >
Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 20
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to refer to the table
above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec >
10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules
Relay Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control
Modules
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 09-06-03-004D
Date: December 08, 2010
Subject: Intermittent No Crank/No Start, No Module Communication, MIL, Warning Lights, Vehicle
Messages or DTCs Set by Various Control Modules - Diagnosing and Repairing Fretting Corrosion
(Disconnect Affected Connector and Apply Dielectric Lubricant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Attention:
This repair can be applied to ANY electrical connection including, but not limited to: lighting, body
electrical, in-line connections, powertrain control sensors, etc. DO NOT over apply lubricant to the
point where it prevents the full engagement of sealed connectors. A light coating on the terminal
surfaces is sufficient to correct the condition.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the Attention statement and add the 2011
model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-06-03-004C (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions:
- An intermittent no crank/no start
- Intermittent malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination
- Intermittent service lamp illumination
- Intermittent service message(s) being displayed
The technician may determine that he is unable to duplicate the intermittent condition.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a buildup of nonconductive insulating oxidized debris known as
fretting corrosion, occurring between two electrical contact surfaces of the connection or connector.
This may be caused by any of the following conditions:
- Vibration
- Thermal cycling
- Poor connection/terminal retention
- Micro motion
- A connector, component or wiring harness not properly secured resulting in movement
On low current signal circuits this condition may cause high resistance, resulting in intermittent
connections.
On high current power circuits this condition may cause permanent increases in the resistance and
may cause a device to become inoperative.
Representative List of Control Modules and Components
The following is only a representative list of control modules and components that may be affected
by this connection or connector condition and DOES NOT include every possible module or
component for every vehicle.
- Blower Control Module
- Body Control Module (BCM)
- Communication Interface Module (CIM)
- Cooling Fan Control Module
- Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
- Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module (EBTCM)
- Electronic Suspension Control (ESC) Module
- Engine Control Module (ECM)
- Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) Control Module
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec >
10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 26
- HVAC Actuator
- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
- Any AIR BAG module
- Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner
- Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner
- An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set:
B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
- Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
- Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Correction
Important DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:
- The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.
- The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can
no longer be duplicated.
Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above.
1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle. Retrieve and record any
existing history or current DTCs from all of the
control modules (refer to SI).
‹› If any DTC(s) are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle to identify the
connector(s) of the control module/component
which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).
‹› If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control
module/component which may be causing the
condition (refer to SI).
2. When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component
Connector End Views and Component Locator
documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) which are causing the
condition.
Note Fretting corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the
actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or
identified without the use of a magnifying glass.
Important DO NOT apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown,
as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors. Use ONLY a clean nylon brush
that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin.
3. With a one-inch nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side
and the harness side of the affected connector(s).
4. Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present.
5. Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information:
- DTC Diagnostic Procedure
- Circuit/System Description
- Conditions for Running the DTC
- Conditions for Setting the DTC
- Diagnostic Aids
- Circuit/System Verification
‹› If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete. ‹› If the condition can be duplicated,
then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI).
Repair Order Documentation
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec >
10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 27
Important The following information MUST be documented on the repair order. Failure to do so
may result in a chargeback.
- Customer vehicle condition.
- Was a Service Lamp or Service Message illuminated? If yes, specify which Service Lamp or
Service Message.
- Was a DTC(s) set? If yes, specify which DTC(s) were set.
- After following the procedure contained within this bulletin, could the condition be duplicated?
‹› If the condition was not duplicated, then document the affected module/component connector
name and number on the repair order.
- If the condition was duplicated after the procedure contained within this bulletin was followed, and
additional diagnosis led to the replacement of a module or component, the SI Document ID
Number MUST be written on the repair order.
Parts Information
Alternate Distributor For All of North America
Note
NyoGel(R) 760G Lubricant* is equivalent to GMSPO P/N 12377900, and P/N 10953529 (Canada),
specified for use to correct the condition in this bulletin.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume
any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be
available from other sources.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec >
10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 28
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to refer to the table
above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Relay Module: >
01-08-42-001H > Jan > 11 > Lighting - Exterior Lamp Condensation and Replacement
Tail Lamp: All Technical Service Bulletins Lighting - Exterior Lamp Condensation and Replacement
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 01-08-42-001H
Date: January 05, 2011
Subject: Exterior Lamp Condensation and Replacement Guidelines
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn)
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2011 model year. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 01-08-42-001G (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
The following information is being provided to better define the causes of condensation in exterior
lamps and includes guidelines for determining the difference between a lamp with a normal
atmospheric condition (condensation) and a lamp with a water leak.
Some exterior lamps, such as cornering, turn signal, backup, headlamps or tail lamps may exhibit
very small droplets of water, a fine mist or white fog (condensation) on the inside of the lamp lens.
This may be more noticeable on lamps with "multi-lens" designs and may be normal during certain
weather conditions.
Condensation occurs when the air inside the lamp assembly, through atmospheric changes,
reaches the "dew point". When this takes place, the moisture in the air within the lamp assembly
condenses, creating a fine mist or white fog on the inside surface of the lamp lens.
Most exterior lamps on General Motors vehicles use a vented design and feature a replaceable
bulb assembly. They are designed to remove any accumulated moisture vapor by expelling it
through a vent system. The vent system operates at all times, however, it is most effective when
the lamps are ON or when the vehicle is in motion. Depending on the size, shape and location of
the lamp on the vehicle, and the atmospheric conditions occurring, the amount of time required to
clear the lamp may vary from 2 to 6 hours.
Completely sealed headlamp assemblies (sealed beams) are still used on a limited number of
models being manufactured today. These lamps require the replacement of the complete lamp
assembly if a bulb filament burns out.
Condensation 2006 TrailBlazer Shown
A Fine Mist or White Fog on the Inside Surface of the Lamp Lens Occurring After a Period of High
Humidity
- May be located primarily in the lens corners (near the vents) and SHOULD NOT cover more than
half the lens surface.
- The condition should clear of moisture when the vehicle is parked in a dry environment, or when
the vehicle is driven with the lights ON.
- A comparison of the equivalent lamp on the opposing side of the vehicle indicates a SIMILAR
performance.
If the above conditions are noted, the customer should be advised that replacement of a lamp
assembly may not correct this condition.
Water Leak New Style Pickup Shown
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Relay Module: >
01-08-42-001H > Jan > 11 > Lighting - Exterior Lamp Condensation and Replacement > Page 34
Numerous & Various Size Drops of Water Collecting on the Inside Surface of the Lamp Lens After
the Vehicle Has Been Exposed to Rain or a Car Washing Environment
- A condition that covers more than half the surface of the lamp lens.
- An accumulation of water in the bottom of the lamp assembly.
- A condition that WON'T clear when the vehicle is parked in a dry environment, or when the
vehicle is driven with the lights ON.
- A comparison of the equivalent lamp on the opposing side of the vehicle indicates a different
performance.
Any of the above conditions would indicate the need to service the lens or lamp assembly.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Relay Module: >
00-08-42-007C > Aug > 04 > Lighting - Stop/Tail Lamps Inoperative/Water Inside
Tail Lamp: All Technical Service Bulletins Lighting - Stop/Tail Lamps Inoperative/Water Inside
Bulletin No.: 00-08-42-007C
Date: August 24, 2004
TECHNICAL
Subject: Stop/Tail Lamp(s) Inoperative or Intermittent and/or Water in Lamp (Replace Circuit
Board/Gasket and/or Lamp Assembly)
Models: 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 2004-2005 Chevrolet Classic 1999-2005 Pontiac Grand Am
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2005 model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 00-08-42-007B (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Condition
Some customers may comment that a stop and/or tail lamp may not work correctly, or that the tail
lamp has water in it.
Cause
This condition may be caused by the circuit board and/or gasket.
Correction
Remove the lamp assembly from the vehicle. Use the information below to diagnose and repair the
lamp assembly.
1. If the base of the stop/tail lamp bulb is distorted, replace only the circuit board and gasket, as
well as the bulb.
2. If the lamp leaks (has water in it, as opposed to condensation) but the reflective surfaces inside
the lamp are not discolored, replace the circuit board and gasket.
3. Replace the lamp assembly only if the following condition(s) exist:
^ The lamp is discolored internally.
^ The lens is cracked.
^ A locking tab is broken.
^ The reflective surface is discolored.
4. After replacing the circuit board, ensure that all locking tabs are securely fastened to the circuit
board.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Relay Module: >
00-08-42-007C > Aug > 04 > Lighting - Stop/Tail Lamps Inoperative/Water Inside > Page 39
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Relay Module: >
00-08-42-007C > Aug > 04 > Lighting - Stop/Tail Lamps Inoperative/Water Inside > Page 40
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Relay Module: >
01-08-42-001H > Jan > 11 > Lighting - Exterior Lamp Condensation and Replacement > Page 46
Numerous & Various Size Drops of Water Collecting on the Inside Surface of the Lamp Lens After
the Vehicle Has Been Exposed to Rain or a Car Washing Environment
- A condition that covers more than half the surface of the lamp lens.
- An accumulation of water in the bottom of the lamp assembly.
- A condition that WON'T clear when the vehicle is parked in a dry environment, or when the
vehicle is driven with the lights ON.
- A comparison of the equivalent lamp on the opposing side of the vehicle indicates a different
performance.
Any of the above conditions would indicate the need to service the lens or lamp assembly.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Relay Module: >
00-08-42-007C > Aug > 04 > Lighting - Stop/Tail Lamps Inoperative/Water Inside > Page 51
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Relay Module: >
00-08-42-007C > Aug > 04 > Lighting - Stop/Tail Lamps Inoperative/Water Inside > Page 52
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Door Lock Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Door Lock Relay: Locations
LH I/P Bussed Electrical Center
Left Side Of I/P
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Trunk / Liftgate Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Trunk / Liftgate Relay: Locations
LH I/P Bussed Electrical Center
Left Side Of I/P
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > ABS Main
Relay > Component Information > Description and Operation
ABS Main Relay: Description and Operation
The Electronic Brake Control Relay is a normally-open contact type, and has special contact
material to handle the high currents required for ABS VI operation. The relay allows the battery
voltage and current to be supplied to the solenoids and the EBCM, which supplies power to the
motors.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > ABS Main
Relay > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 64
ABS Main Relay: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Underhood Bussed Electrical Center cover. 2. Electronic Brake Control Relay.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Electronic Brake Control Relay. 2. Underhood Bussed Electrical Center cover. 3. Perform
Diagnostic System Check.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Fluid
Solenoid Valve Relay > Component Information > Locations
LF Wheel
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Fluid
Solenoid Valve Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Harness Connector
RF ABS Solenoid
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Fluid
Solenoid Valve Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Harness Connector > Page 70
LF ABS Solenoid
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Electronic Brake
Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286)
Electronic Brake Control Module: Customer Interest Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246
& C1286)
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-26
Date: August, 1997
Subject: ABS Light On - DTC's 46 and 86 Set (Perform Diagnostic Procedure, Replace Center ABS
Motor Pinion)
Models: 1991-97 Buick Skylark 1992-97 Buick Regal 1994-97 Buick Century 1992-96 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica, Lumina APV 1992-97 Chevrolet Cavalier, Lumina, 1993-97 Chevrolet Camaro
1995-97 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1997
Chevrolet Malibu, Venture
1993-97 Geo Prizm 1995-97 Geo Metro 1996-97 Geo Tracker 1991
Oldsmobile Calais
1992-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1992-97 Oldsmobile Achieva, Cutlass Supreme, Silhouette
1997
Oldsmobile Cutlass
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
1991-97 Pontiac Grand Am 1992-94 Pontiac Sunbird 1992-97 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1993-97 Pontiac Firebird, Trans Am 1995-97 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition
Some owners may comment that the ABS light is on with Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) 46
and 86 set (rear ABS channel will not move) as current or history. (DTC's 46 and 86 will be
displayed as C1246 and C1286 on 1997 and 1998 model year vehicles).
Cause
A condition exists where the ABS motor pack gear (pinion) will bind on the motor armature shaft
causing the motor not to move when commanded by the EBCM. This condition is aggravated by
light corrosion between the pinion and shaft. Therefore, it may occur more frequently when the
weather is hot and humid.
Important:
Other EBCM and ABS motor pack concerns can also cause this condition, but they are not as
common as the above cause.
Correction
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Electronic Brake
Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 79
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Electronic Brake
Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 80
Follow the included procedure (Attachments 1 and 2) for diagnosis. This condition may correct
itself before the owner is able to bring the vehicle in for service. Therefore, if DTC 46 is set in
history, and is not currently setting, the included procedure will instruct you to replace the center
ABS motor pinion. The new pinion has a Teflon insert which reduces friction between the pinion
and motor armature shaft.
Pinion Replacement
If the included procedure instructs you to replace the center ABS motor pinion, use P/N 18029776.
Please note that the new pinion is a direct replacement part which requires no modifications to the
motor shaft. Follow the pinion replacement procedure included with the new pinion. Complete
motor pack replacement is not required.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
H2506 Use published labor
operation time.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Electronic
Brake Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286)
Electronic Brake Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 &
86 (C1246 & C1286)
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-26
Date: August, 1997
Subject: ABS Light On - DTC's 46 and 86 Set (Perform Diagnostic Procedure, Replace Center ABS
Motor Pinion)
Models: 1991-97 Buick Skylark 1992-97 Buick Regal 1994-97 Buick Century 1992-96 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica, Lumina APV 1992-97 Chevrolet Cavalier, Lumina, 1993-97 Chevrolet Camaro
1995-97 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1997
Chevrolet Malibu, Venture
1993-97 Geo Prizm 1995-97 Geo Metro 1996-97 Geo Tracker 1991
Oldsmobile Calais
1992-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1992-97 Oldsmobile Achieva, Cutlass Supreme, Silhouette
1997
Oldsmobile Cutlass
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
1991-97 Pontiac Grand Am 1992-94 Pontiac Sunbird 1992-97 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1993-97 Pontiac Firebird, Trans Am 1995-97 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition
Some owners may comment that the ABS light is on with Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) 46
and 86 set (rear ABS channel will not move) as current or history. (DTC's 46 and 86 will be
displayed as C1246 and C1286 on 1997 and 1998 model year vehicles).
Cause
A condition exists where the ABS motor pack gear (pinion) will bind on the motor armature shaft
causing the motor not to move when commanded by the EBCM. This condition is aggravated by
light corrosion between the pinion and shaft. Therefore, it may occur more frequently when the
weather is hot and humid.
Important:
Other EBCM and ABS motor pack concerns can also cause this condition, but they are not as
common as the above cause.
Correction
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Electronic
Brake Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 86
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Electronic
Brake Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 87
Follow the included procedure (Attachments 1 and 2) for diagnosis. This condition may correct
itself before the owner is able to bring the vehicle in for service. Therefore, if DTC 46 is set in
history, and is not currently setting, the included procedure will instruct you to replace the center
ABS motor pinion. The new pinion has a Teflon insert which reduces friction between the pinion
and motor armature shaft.
Pinion Replacement
If the included procedure instructs you to replace the center ABS motor pinion, use P/N 18029776.
Please note that the new pinion is a direct replacement part which requires no modifications to the
motor shaft. Follow the pinion replacement procedure included with the new pinion. Complete
motor pack replacement is not required.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
H2506 Use published labor
operation time.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 88
Electronic Brake Control Module: Specifications
TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS
Mounting Screw ...................................................................................................................................
............................................. 11 Nm (97 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 89
Inside LF Fender
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Exploded Views
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Exploded Views > Page 92
Electronic Brake Control Module: Connector Views
Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Exploded Views > Page 93
Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) (Part 2 Of 3)
Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) (Part 3 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 94
Electronic Brake Control Module: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The controlling element of ABS VI is a microprocessor based Electronic Brake Control Module, or
EBCM. Inputs to the system include four wheel speed sensors, the brake switch, the brake fluid
level switch, ignition switch, and unswitched battery voltage. Outputs include three bi-directional
motor controls, two solenoid controls and the Electronic Brake Control Relay. A serial data line is
used for service diagnostic tools (scan tool), assembly plant testing and control of indicators in the
Instrument Cluster.
OPERATION
The EBCM monitors the speed of each wheel. If any wheel begins to approach lockup, the EBCM
controls the motors and solenoids to reduce brake pressure to the wheel approaching lockup. Once
the wheel regains traction, brake pressure is increased until the wheel again begins to approach
lockup. This cycle repeats until either the vehicle comes to a stop, the brake is released, or no
wheels approach lockup. Additionally, the EBCM monitors itself, each input and each output for
proper operation. If a system malfunction is detected, the EBCM will store a DTC in nonvolatile
memory (DTCs will not disappear if the battery is disconnected).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 95
Electronic Brake Control Module: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Left front tire and wheel assembly. 2. Inner splash shield.
3. Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) electrical connector.
4. EBCM mounting screws from bracket.
5. EBCM.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. EBCM to vehicle. 2. Hex head screws, attaching EBCM. Tighten Hex head screws to 11 Nm (97
inch lbs.). 3. EBCM electrical connector. 4. Inner splash shield. 5. Left front tire and wheel
assembly. 6. Perform Diagnostic System Check.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan Motor
Relay > Component Information > Locations
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay: Locations
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Left Side Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan Motor
Relay > Component Information > Locations > Page 100
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay: Description and Operation
OPERATION
The PCM regulates voltage to the coolant fan relays, which operate the fans.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Module >
Component Information > Locations
RH Side Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Module >
Component Information > Locations > Page 105
Cruise Control Module
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Blower Motor Relay > Component
Information > Locations
Blower Motor Relay: Locations
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Left Side Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Compressor Clutch Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Compressor Clutch Relay: Locations
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Left Side Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Exterior Lighting Module
> Component Information > Description and Operation
Exterior Lighting Module: Description and Operation
The Body Function Controller (BFC) controls exterior lighting which includes the following:
^ Low Beams and Parklamps
^ High Beams
^ Daytime Running Lights
^ Park Lamps
^ Foglamps
Daytime Running Lights (DRL) operate the low beam Headlamps at a reduced intensity when the
vehicle is not in park, the Park Brake is not set and the normal Headlamps are not ON.
Automatic Lighting Control turns on the Parklamps and the Headlamps when an Ambient Light
sensor detects a low ambient light level. The system assures that the Headlamps/Parklamps are
ON if the driver is operating the vehicle after dark. When Automatic Lighting Control is active, the
Headlamp Dimmer Switch determines whether High or Low Beams are selected.
If the Ignition Switch is turned to the RUN position in a low ambient light level area, Automatic
Lighting Control becomes active immediately, otherwise 20 seconds must elapse before the
Automatic Lighting Control is activated. If the Park Brake is set when the Ignition Switch is turned to
RUN, the Automatic Lighting Control will be disabled until the Park Brake is released. If the
Automatic Lighting Control is active and a high ambient light level is detected, 20 seconds must
elapse before the Automatic Lighting Control is turned OFF. The Headlamps are disabled during
engine crank.
The Foglamp control system will activate the Foglamp Relay when the Foglamp option is set, the
Ignition Switch is in the RUN position, the Parklamps are active, the High Beam Headlamps are
OFF and the Foglamp Switch is ON. High Beams ON and the Parklamps ON are used to disable
the Foglamp relay output as required.
The Backup lamps are the only exterior lamps that are not controlled by the Body Function
Controller (BFC).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Horn Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Horn Relay: Locations
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Left Side Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box >
Component Information > Locations > I/P Junction Block
Left Side Of I/P
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box >
Component Information > Locations > I/P Junction Block > Page 125
Left Side Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Engine Controls - Service Manual Supplement Announcement
Body Control Module: Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Service Manual Supplement
Announcement
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 99-06-04-010
Date: March, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: 1997 Service Manual Supplement
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
The 1997 GMP/97-LN-2 service information has been revised to incorporate the changes
associated with the Body Function Controller (BFC). Please refer to the 1997 Service Manual
supplement (part number GMP/97-LN-UPD) for the revised service information. This supplement
provides revised diagnostic procedures and service information for the following items:
^ DTC P0630 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit
^ DTC P1601 Serial Communication Malfunction
^ DTC P1602 Class II Failure with EBCM
^ DTC P1610 Class II Failure with BFC
^ DTC P1626 No Password
^ DTC P1530 Theft Deterrent PCM in Learn Mode
^ DTC P1631 Theft Deterrent Password Incorrect
^ DTC P1632 Theft Deterrent System Fuel Disabled
^ A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit
^ A/C Compressor Clutch Control
^ Electric Cooling Fan
^ Electric Cooling Fan (Table 1)
^ Electric Cooling Fan (Table 2)
^ Electric Cooling Fan (Table 3)
^ Engine Oil Pressure Switch
^ PCM Controlled Air Conditioning
^ Electric Cooling Fan General Description
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Page 132
Below RH Side Of I/P
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Body Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 135
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 136
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 137
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 138
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 139
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 140
Body Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Body Control Module: Connector Views
Body Function Controller (BFC): C1
Body Function Controller (BFC): C2
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Body Function Controller (BFC): C2 (Part 1 Of 2)
Body Function Controller (BFC): C2 (Part 2 Of 2)
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Body Function Controller (BFC): C3
Body Function Controller (BFC): C3 (Part 1 Of 2)
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Body Function Controller (BFC): C3 (Part 2 Of 2)
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Body Control Module: Electrical Diagrams
Body Function Controller (Part 1 Of 4)
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Body Function Controller (Part 2 Of 4)
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Body Function Controller (Part 3 Of 4)
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Body Function Controller (Part 4 Of 4)
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Technician Safety Information
Body Control Module: Technician Safety Information
CAUTION:
^ This vehicle is equipped with Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR). Refer to Service
Precautions / Air Bags (Supplemental Restraint Systems) before performing service on or around
SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment,
personal injury, or otherwise unneeded SIR system repairs.
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Body Control Module: Vehicle Damage Warnings
Overloading Circuits
The computer system is designed to withstand normal current draws associated with vehicle
operation, however, care must be taken to avoid overloading any of these circuits. In testing for
opens or shorts, do not ground or apply voltage to any of the circuits unless instructed to do so by
the diagnostic procedures. These circuits may only be tested using the High Impedance Multimeter
(J 39200 or equivalent) if they remain connected to one of the computers. Never remove or apply
voltage to one of the computers with the Ignition Switch in the RUN position. Before removing or
connecting battery cables, fuses or connectors always turn the Ignition Switch to the OFF position.
Fastener Requirements
NOTE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for the application. General Motors will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. General Motors will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and the joint clamping
force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening
sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and
systems.
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Body Control System Operation
Body Control Module: Description and Operation Body Control System Operation
Bulb Check General Description
The bulb check function resides in the Body Function Controller (BFC). Every time the Ignition
Switch transitions from ACC to RUN, an Instrument Cluster bulb check will occur for a calibrated
amount of time for specified indicators. Bulb check will override the OFF state of the affected
indicators. The Body Function Controller (BFC) will determine which indicators to bulb check by
looking at an EEPROM table. Every Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) indicator has a bit in the
EEPROM table. The gauges will WOW during a bulb check. A WOW is when all of the gauge
indicators are moved at the same time and all indicators are lit. If there is an indicator lit before the
WOW, the indicator shall remain lit after this function has concluded.
Compressor Controls
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and Body Function Controller (BFC) share hardware and
software for control of the AC Compressor Clutch. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and the
Body Function Controller (BFC) communicate this information over the serial data Class 2 line.
The Body Function Controller (BFC) performs the following software functions:
^ Limit Low Speed Compressor Operation
^ Prevent Clutch Slippage
^ High Coolant Temperature
^ Monitor for Overpressure
^ Determine Low Ambient Pressure
^ Control Compressor Clutch
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) performs the following functions:
^ Prevent Compressor Overspeed
^ Limit Compressor Speed (in PARK or NEUTRAL)
^ Drive Compressor Clutch
^ Perform Anti-Slug (Slugging is when a mass of liquid enters the AC Compressor Pump)
Interior Lighting Control
The Body Function Controller (BFC) provides the following interior lamp control:
^ Courtesy lamps.
^ Illuminated Entry control of Courtesy Lamps.
Courtesy Lamps are enabled by the following methods:
^ By discrete input to the Body Function Controller (BFC) from the door ajar switches.
^ If any of the doors are open and the vehicle speed is less than 13 km/h (8 mp/h).
^ If the Ignition Switch has been turned OFF for less than two minutes and then the doors are
closed, the lights will stay on for 4 seconds (or until the Ignition Switch is turned to the RUN
position).
^ If the Ignition Switch has been turned OFF for more than two minutes and then the doors are
closed, the lights will stay on for 40 seconds (or until the Ignition Switch is turned to the RUN
position).
^ If the Ignition Switch has been turned OFF for less than two minutes and the Ignition Key is
removed or the doors are opened, the lights will turn on for 15 seconds (or until the Ignition Key is
re-inserted or a door open switch is cycled).
^ Remote Control Door Lock Transmitter activation of the Driver Door Unlock or the Trunk Release
(function of Illuminated entry).
When the interior lights are to be turned off because a customer is leaving the vehicle (the Ignition
Switch is turned OFF for more than two minutes), they are first step dimmed, and then theater
dimmed to the OFF state. If the Ignition Switch is turned OFF for less than two minutes the interior
lights are theater dimmed to the OFF state in four seconds. If the customer sits in the vehicle and
the interior lights have turned OFF and the customer removes the Ignition Key the interior lights will
illuminate for 15 seconds.
Volts Indicator
The Volts indicator (red) will be illuminated under the following conditions:
^ Lamp Terminal pulled low: Key On (Bulb check)
- Open Field or Regulator Circuit
- Output voltage above overvoltage set point (no control)
- Low system voltage above Engine RPM calibrated value (Undervoltage)
- Open P terminal at the Voltage Regulator, shorted positive or negative bridge diode at P terminal
Field terminal voltage
- Condition indicate a voltage regulator disconnect (Low Duty Cycle)
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will determine Engine RPM, Generator Field Duty Cycle,
Lamp Terminal State, L term disabled and send these as Class 2 messages to the Body Function
Controller (BFC). The Body Function Controller (BFC) will then dictate to the Instrument Cluster the
state of the Volts indicator and set the appropriate fault codes.
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There are four fault codes possible that will illuminate the volts indicator.
The Lamp Terminal Open/Short fault and the Field Terminal Short fault and their respective codes
can only be set and cleared with Ignition 1 active and zero engine RPM. Since the volts indicator is
illuminated with Ignition 1 active and zero engine RPM the faults that can occur under these
conditions cannot be communicated to the driver. Therefore, if either of these codes are set when
the engine is started the indicator will remain illuminated to indicate the fault. The Lamp Terminal
Open/Short program checks for a high lamp state while the Engine in not running. The Field
Terminal Short program checks for a duty cycle higher than a calibrated value while the engine is
not running. Both of these faults have a calibratable timer before setting.
The Field terminal fault and the Lamp terminal fault and their respective codes can only be set and
cleared with the engine running. The Body Function Controller (BFC) will diagnose a possible
voltage regulator disconnect (Field terminal fault) by monitoring the duty cycle and verifying it does
not fall below the calibrated value for a calibrated time. The Lamp terminal fault is set if the Lamp
terminal goes low for a calibrated time.
The volts algorithm tracks whether or not the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) has disabled the
Generator on a cold start or in a stall condition and will not set any field or lamp faults. The
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will not disable the generator for more than 10 seconds.
In the event of a Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or a Body Function Controller (BFC) Class 2 or
Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial data loss the Volts indicator will remain in its last state prior
to the loss of serial data.
Wake-Up/Asleep States
Wake-ups are signals that will turn the Body Function Controller (BFC) ON and cause it to begin
active control and/or monitoring. The Body Function Controller (BFC) is asleep when it has stopped
control or monitoring and has become idle again. The Body Function Controller (BFC) Wake-ups
are as follows:
^ Door Ajar Switches
^ Ignition Switch actuation
^ Inadvertent Power
^ Battery Guard
^ Remote Control Door Lock Receiver Driver Door Unlock actuation Trunk Release
The Body Function Controller will go to sleep and go into Battery Rundown Protection mode are as
follows:
^ Less than 24 km (15 miles), 3 minutes
^ Greater than 24 km (15 miles), 20 minutes
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Body Control Module: Description and Operation General Description
The Body Function Controller (BFC) performs the following functions:
^ A/C Compressor request
^ A/C Cooling Fan
^ Exterior and interior lighting control Daytime Running Lights (DRL)
- Automatic Lighting Control
- Fog Lamps
- Interior Lighting
^ Battery Rundown Protection
^ Chime
^ Gauge Control
^ Instrument Cluster Indicator Control
^ Theft Deterrent
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Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
Body Control Module: Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
Basic Knowledge Required
Before performing diagnosis there are some areas that you must be familiar with. Without this basic
knowledge, you will have difficulty using diagnostic procedures.
1. Basic Electrical Circuits - The basic theory of electricity is essential. An understanding of voltage,
current, resistance and their relationships to
each other will help in the diagnosis of an open or shorted circuit. You must be able to read and
understand a schematic wiring diagram.
2. Use of Circuit Testing Tools - You must know how to use jumper wires to bypass components to
test circuits. You must be familiar with the High
Impedance Multimeter (DMM - Digital Multi Meter), particularly essential tool J 39200 or equivalent.
You must be able to measure voltage, resistance, and current with the DMM you are using.
3. Use of the scan tool - You must know how to use, connect, manipulate and diagnose circuits
using this essential tool. You must be familiar with
screens and control module partitions.
Body Function Controller System Check
Diagnostic Trouble Codes Warning
IMPORTANT
Do NOT replace the Body Function Controller (BFC) unless a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)
remains Current after all DTC tables have been executed. NEVER replace the Body Function
Controller (BFC) based on History codes.
The Body Function Controller (BFC) and the Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) are
connected to the Class 2 serial data link and are capable of setting Diagnostic Trouble Codes. The
history DTC codes (a history DTC is a current DTC fault that disappears in the next ignition cycle)
can be especially useful in diagnosing an intermittent problem. An explanation of these are given
below in Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) TABLE #13.
On Vehicle Diagnostic Capabilities
Aboard this vehicle are electronic components which can be controlled by the service technician to
provide valuable self-diagnostic information. These components are part of an electrical network
designed to control various engine and body subsystems.
System sensors and switches are monitored by the computer system. These components are
^ Body Function Controller (BFC)
^ Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
^ Instrument Cluster
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^ Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
^ Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM) - Supplemental Inflatable Restraint System (CKT 800
UART)
A combination of inputs from these components, other sensors and switches go to the computers
either as discrete/analog inputs, communicated on the communications link (called the Data Line
(circuit 1807 Class 2, or circuit 800 UART) and Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) [circuit 1321, circuit
1322 and circuit 1323]) to other computers.
Visual Inspection
One of the most important checks, which must be done before any diagnostic activity, is a careful
visual inspection of suspect wiring and components. This can often lead to fixing a malfunction
without further steps. Inspect the battery hydrometer (green eye) to assure the Battery is not
discharged. Inspect all vacuum and electrical circuits for pinches, cuts or disconnects. This visual
inspection is very important. It must be done carefully and thoroughly.
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Body Control Module: Reading and Clearing Diagnostic Trouble Codes
With Scan Tool
The procedure for reading diagnostic trouble code(s) is to use a diagnostic scan tool. Read
Diagnostic Trouble Codes Using a Tech 1, Tech 2 or Other Scan Tool.
When reading DTC(s), follow instructions supplied by tool manufacturer.
Without Scan Tool
A scan tool must be used to retrieve DTCs from the PCM memory. DTCs can no longer be
retrieved by grounding terminals "A" to "B" at the Data Link Connector (DLC). This also eliminates
the PCM function of flashing Code 12. The use of a Tech 1 scan tool or equivalent will be needed
to obtain both current and history DTCs.
Failure to follow this step could result in unnecessary repairs.
With Scan Tool
NOTE: Only clear DTC's when instructed to do so. All of the diagnostic data that was saved along
with the DTC will also be erased when the code is cleared. To clear Diagnostic Trouble Codes
(DTCs), use the diagnostic scan tool, "clear DTCs" or "clear info" function.
When clearing DTCs follow instructions supplied by the tool manufacturer.
To Clear DTCs From Memory:
^ Use a scan tool (recommended) Or
^ Ignition OFF for at least 10 seconds,
^ Disconnect the negative battery cable for 30 seconds (clears status flags).
Notice: Clearing the PCM DTC memory by disconnecting the battery will clear all PCM memories.
Since some operations (particularly IAC valve idle control) are learned, it may be necessary to
partially depress the accelerator pedal when re-starting the engine after PCM memory is cleared. It
may also be necessary to release the accelerator pedal very slowly when first returning to idle, to
prevent a stall. This will allow the PCM to re-learn IAC valve position. Learned operations may be
restored by normal driving.
Without Scan Tool
NOTE: Only clear DTC's when instructed to do so. All of the diagnostic data that was saved along
with the DTC will also be erased when the code is cleared.
A scan tool should be used to clear diagnostic trouble codes. When a scan tool is not available,
DTCs can also be cleared by disconnecting one of the following sources for at least thirty (30)
seconds:
NOTE: When codes are cleared in the following manner, a short period of poor driveablity could
result while the processor goes through a relearning process.
Caution: To prevent system damage, the ignition key must be "OFF" when disconnecting or
reconnecting battery power.
^ The power source to the control module. Examples: fuse, pigtail at battery PCM connectors etc.
^ The negative battery cable. (Disconnecting the negative battery cable may result in the loss of
other on-board memory data, such as preset radio tuning).
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Body Control Module: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Bulb Check General Description
The bulb check function resides in the Body Function Controller (BFC). Every time the Ignition
Switch transitions from ACC to RUN, an Instrument Cluster bulb check will occur for a calibrated
amount of time for specified indicators. Bulb check will override the OFF state of the affected
indicators. The Body Function Controller (BFC) will determine which indicators to bulb check by
looking at an EEPROM table. Every Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) indicator has a bit in the
EEPROM table. The gauges will WOW during a bulb check. A WOW is when all of the gauge
indicators are moved at the same time and all indicators are lit. If there is an indicator lit before the
WOW, the indicator shall remain lit after this function has concluded.
Compressor Controls
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and Body Function Controller (BFC) share hardware and
software for control of the AC Compressor Clutch. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and the
Body Function Controller (BFC) communicate this information over the serial data Class 2 line.
The Body Function Controller (BFC) performs the following software functions:
^ Limit Low Speed Compressor Operation
^ Prevent Clutch Slippage
^ High Coolant Temperature
^ Monitor for Overpressure
^ Determine Low Ambient Pressure
^ Control Compressor Clutch
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) performs the following functions:
^ Prevent Compressor Overspeed
^ Limit Compressor Speed (in PARK or NEUTRAL)
^ Drive Compressor Clutch
^ Perform Anti-Slug (Slugging is when a mass of liquid enters the AC Compressor Pump)
Interior Lighting Control
The Body Function Controller (BFC) provides the following interior lamp control:
^ Courtesy lamps.
^ Illuminated Entry control of Courtesy Lamps.
Courtesy Lamps are enabled by the following methods:
^ By discrete input to the Body Function Controller (BFC) from the door ajar switches.
^ If any of the doors are open and the vehicle speed is less than 13 km/h (8 mp/h).
^ If the Ignition Switch has been turned OFF for less than two minutes and then the doors are
closed, the lights will stay on for 4 seconds (or until the Ignition Switch is turned to the RUN
position).
^ If the Ignition Switch has been turned OFF for more than two minutes and then the doors are
closed, the lights will stay on for 40 seconds (or until the Ignition Switch is turned to the RUN
position).
^ If the Ignition Switch has been turned OFF for less than two minutes and the Ignition Key is
removed or the doors are opened, the lights will turn on for 15 seconds (or until the Ignition Key is
re-inserted or a door open switch is cycled).
^ Remote Control Door Lock Transmitter activation of the Driver Door Unlock or the Trunk Release
(function of Illuminated entry).
When the interior lights are to be turned off because a customer is leaving the vehicle (the Ignition
Switch is turned OFF for more than two minutes), they are first step dimmed, and then theater
dimmed to the OFF state. If the Ignition Switch is turned OFF for less than two minutes the interior
lights are theater dimmed to the OFF state in four seconds. If the customer sits in the vehicle and
the interior lights have turned OFF and the customer removes the Ignition Key the interior lights will
illuminate for 15 seconds.
Volts Indicator
The Volts indicator (red) will be illuminated under the following conditions:
^ Lamp Terminal pulled low: Key On (Bulb check)
- Open Field or Regulator Circuit
- Output voltage above overvoltage set point (no control)
- Low system voltage above Engine RPM calibrated value (Undervoltage)
- Open P terminal at the Voltage Regulator, shorted positive or negative bridge diode at P terminal
Field terminal voltage
- Condition indicate a voltage regulator disconnect (Low Duty Cycle)
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will determine Engine RPM, Generator Field Duty Cycle,
Lamp Terminal State, L term disabled and send these as Class 2 messages to the Body Function
Controller (BFC). The Body Function Controller (BFC) will then dictate to the Instrument Cluster the
state of the Volts indicator and set the appropriate fault codes.
There are four fault codes possible that will illuminate the volts indicator.
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The Lamp Terminal Open/Short fault and the Field Terminal Short fault and their respective codes
can only be set and cleared with Ignition 1 active and zero engine RPM. Since the volts indicator is
illuminated with Ignition 1 active and zero engine RPM the faults that can occur under these
conditions cannot be communicated to the driver. Therefore, if either of these codes are set when
the engine is started the indicator will remain illuminated to indicate the fault. The Lamp Terminal
Open/Short program checks for a high lamp state while the Engine in not running. The Field
Terminal Short program checks for a duty cycle higher than a calibrated value while the engine is
not running. Both of these faults have a calibratable timer before setting.
The Field terminal fault and the Lamp terminal fault and their respective codes can only be set and
cleared with the engine running. The Body Function Controller (BFC) will diagnose a possible
voltage regulator disconnect (Field terminal fault) by monitoring the duty cycle and verifying it does
not fall below the calibrated value for a calibrated time. The Lamp terminal fault is set if the Lamp
terminal goes low for a calibrated time.
The volts algorithm tracks whether or not the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) has disabled the
Generator on a cold start or in a stall condition and will not set any field or lamp faults. The
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will not disable the generator for more than 10 seconds.
In the event of a Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or a Body Function Controller (BFC) Class 2 or
Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial data loss the Volts indicator will remain in its last state prior
to the loss of serial data.
Wake-Up/Asleep States
Wake-ups are signals that will turn the Body Function Controller (BFC) ON and cause it to begin
active control and/or monitoring. The Body Function Controller (BFC) is asleep when it has stopped
control or monitoring and has become idle again. The Body Function Controller (BFC) Wake-ups
are as follows:
^ Door Ajar Switches
^ Ignition Switch actuation
^ Inadvertent Power
^ Battery Guard
^ Remote Control Door Lock Receiver Driver Door Unlock actuation Trunk Release
The Body Function Controller will go to sleep and go into Battery Rundown Protection mode are as
follows:
^ Less than 24 km (15 miles), 3 minutes
^ Greater than 24 km (15 miles), 20 minutes
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Body Control Module: Scan Tool Testing and Procedures
System Tests
System Tests, using the Scan Tool, allow for the display of values as actually seen or commanded
by the various computers (i.e. PCM, IC, SDM, EBCM, or BFC). The Test Types available are
dependent upon the System selected, but may include the following:
^ Data (Analog Inputs) - displays analog values as seen by the system.
^ Inputs and Outputs (Digital Inputs) - displays digital values as seen by the system and provides
an indication of whether the input or output has cycled.
^ Special Functions (Output Controls) - allows for outputs of the system to be set at a desired value
(ON or OFF).
^ Clear Codes - will erase all DTCs stored for the system currently selected (Note: If the
malfunction is still present, the DTC may immediately reset).
Body Main Menu
The scan tool software is broken into major computer controller groups that are found in the body
of the vehicle.
The Body Function Controller (BFC), in addition to being an element of the Class 2 serial data link,
also has hardwired inputs as do the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Electronic Brake Control
Module (EBCM), the Instrument Cluster, and the Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM).
Some of these inputs are used to display information for the Instrument Cluster gauges and
indicators while other inputs are converted into serial data link and transmitted on the Class 2 serial
data link and the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial data link.
The Body Function Controller (BFC) is the only interface to the Instrument Cluster, the Body
Function Controller (BFC) converts Class 2 data to Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) for the
Instrument Cluster. The choice of inputs that can be read are listed in TABLE #1.
TABLE #1 - BODY MAIN MENU
Function Supplemental Inflatable Restraint Body Function Controller
Entertainment and Comfort Bus
Features Menu
Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool can navigate through various modes of information
gathering modes; Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC), Data Display, Snapshot, and Special
Functions. The Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) menu allow the technician to view the error codes
set by the Body Function Controller (BFC). The Data Display menu allows the technician to view
what the current state the various Body Function Controllers inputs and outputs. The Snapshot
menu function allows the technician to view and store the inputs as an aid in diagnosis of
multi-system faults. The Special Functions menu allows the technician to actuate the Body
Function Controller's outputs. The choice of inputs that can be read are listed in TABLE #2.
Diagnostic Trouble Code Menu
In this mode the technician is allowed to view and clear current and history Diagnostic Trouble
Codes (DTC).
Data Display Menu
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Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool allows the technician to command the Body Function
Controller (BFC) to display its various inputs, outputs, and Instrument Cluster information for ease
in diagnosis. This mode can be used to determine whether the Body Function Controller (BFC) is
receiving data correctly from the Body Function Controller (BFC) inputs, the Instrument Cluster or
the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and if the computer systems are operating properly. The
choice of inputs that can be read are listed in TABLE #3.
Module Information Menu
Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool can command the Body Function Controller (BFC) to read
from the instrument Cluster pertinent information about the Instrument Cluster (Part Number,
Calibration ID and the year of construction), the information that can be read is listed in TABLE #4.
PCM to BFC A/C Clutch Data
Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool can command the Body Function Controller (BFC) to read
its various data inputs from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). This mode can be used to
determine whether the Body Function Controller (BFC) is receiving data correctly from the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and if the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is allowing the A/C
Compressor to function. The inputs that can be read are listed in TABLE #5
Security Data
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Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool reads the Vehicle Theft Deterrent data in the Body Function
Controller (BFC). The outputs that can be viewed are listed in TABLE #9.
Data
Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool can command the Body Function Controller (BFC) to read
its various analog data inputs. This mode can be used to determine whether the Body Function
Controller (BFC) is receiving analog data correctly or if a component is operating properly. The
inputs that can be read are listed on TABLE #6.
Inputs
Description
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In this mode of operation, the scan tool can command the Body Function Controller (BFC) to read
its various inputs. This mode can be used to determine whether the Body Function Controller
(BFC) is receiving data correctly or if a component is operating properly. The inputs that can be
read are listed on TABLE #7.
Outputs
Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool can command the Body Function Controller (BFC) to
override its normal operation and force the Body Function Controller (BFC) to enable its outputs
(engage relays, operate Courtesy Lighting, etc). This mode can be used to determine whether the
Body Function Controller (BFC) is capable of producing a given output. The outputs that can be
controlled are listed in TABLE #8.
SPI Data
Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool can command the Instrument Cluster via Body Function
Controller (BFC) to determine proper Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) data bus operation. The data
that can be displayed is listed in TABLE #10.
BFC to Cluster Data
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Description
In this mode of operation the scan tool can command the Instrument Cluster, by Class 2 message
to the Body Function Controller (BFC) and via the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial data bus
to override its normal operation and force the Instrument Cluster to enable its outputs (gauges
move, indicators lit etc). This mode can be used to determine whether the Instrument Cluster is
capable of producing a given output. The outputs that can be controlled are listed in TABLE #11.
Snapshot
The SNAPSHOT function is the same one used to capture DTCs for the Powertrain Control
Module.
Special Functions Menu
Description
In this mode of operation the technician is capable of turning on and off almost all of the Body
Function Controller (BFC) outputs. The functions that can be controlled are found under the Output
Control menu. The information in TABLE #12 shows what outputs the scan tool can command.
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Function Controller (BFC) Replacement
Body Control Module: Service and Repair Body Function Controller (BFC) Replacement
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Right sound insulator. 3. BFC assembly. 4. BFC connectors in the
following order: Pink Connector C3 first, then C1 and C2.
Install or Connect
1. BFC connectors in the following order: C1, C2 and Pink connector C3 last. 2. BFC Module 3.
Right sound insulator. 4. Negative battery cable.
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Body Control Module: Service and Repair Body Function Controller Reprogramming Procedure
IMPORTANT
When removing the Body Function Controller (BFC) disconnect connector C3 FIRST, then
disconnect the remaining connectors. When installing the Body Function Controller (BFC) connect
connectors C1 and C2 first. ALWAYS connect connector C3 LAST.
USING A SCAN TOOL AND TECHLINE TERMINAL TO CONFIGURE THE BODY FUNCTION
CONTROLLER
1. Connect the scan tool to vehicle diagnostic connector, and choose Service Programming from
the scan tool Main Menu. 2. After entering the vehicle information, choose the Request Info soft
key on the scan tool. 3. Disconnect the scan tool from the vehicle and connect the scan tool to the
Techline Terminal. 4. At the Techline Terminal, select Service Programming System (SPS). 5.
Select Terminal to scan tool programming method. 6. Select Done and follow instructions on the
Communications Setup screen. 7. Select Program Body Function Controller. 8. Select Program at
the Summary screen. The terminal will download in formation to the Scan tool. 9. Return to the
vehicle and connect the scan tool to the diagnostic connector.
10. Select Service Programming from the scan tool Main Menu. 11. Answer the prompts regarding
model year and vehicle type. Press the Body Function Controller soft key on scan tool. The Body
Function
Controller will be programmed with the configuration file stored in the scan tool.
12. Reprogram the Theft Deterrent System. 13. Reprogram the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
14. Verify the repair.
TROUBLESHOOTING HINTS:
^ Make the following checks before beginning system diagnosis. 1. Check all fuses by visual
inspection. 2. Ensure that all connectors in system are mated correctly. 3. Check for open in Class
2 serial data link (CKT 1807). 4. Check for an open in the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial
data link (CKT 1321, 1322, 1323). 5. Do NOT replace the Body Function Controller (BFC) with only
History Codes set.
^ Check for a broken (or partially broken) wire inside of the insulation which could cause system
failure but prove GOOD in a continuity/voltage check.
^ Check for proper installation of aftermarket electronic equipment which may affect the integrity of
their systems.
^ Check that all grounds are tight and clean.
^ Refer to System Diagnosis.
SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
^ Perform the Body Function Controller (BFC) Diagnostic System Check and refer to the Symptom
Table for the appropriate diagnostic procedures.
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Body Control Module: Service and Repair Reprogramming Procedure - Auto - Learn
The following procedure allows for anyone to reprogram the Body Function Controller (BFC)
Learned Data Code without any tools (other than the scan tool) when a new Ignition Switch,
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), and/or the BFC is installed. The following is the auto learn
procedure:
The BFC will set the DTC 3031 Controller in learn mode when entering the reprogramming
procedure.
1. Clear all DTC's 2. Turn the Ignition Switch to the START position. 3. The vehicle will start and
then stall. 4. Turn the Ignition Switch to the RUN position until the THEFT SYSTEM indicator turns
off (approximately 10 minutes). 5. Turn the Ignition Switch to the OFF position then back to the
RUN position. 6. The BFC will learn the new data on the next start attempt. 7. Reprogram the PCM
to allow the PCM to learn the new Passlock (TM) code.
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 77-65-29 > Nov > 97 > Instruments - Cluster Resets When Ham Radio Is Keyed
Engine Control Module: Customer Interest Instruments - Cluster Resets When Ham Radio Is
Keyed
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-29
Date: November, 1997
Subject: Instrument Cluster Resets when On-board Ham Radio is Keyed (Replace the PCM)
Models: 1997 Buick Century, Regal 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with
310013800 V6 Engine (VINs M, K, 1 - RPOs L82, L36, L67)
Condition Some vehicles may experience an instrument cluster reset if the vehicle has an on-board
Ham radio operating under the 10 MHz frequency range and the transmitter is keyed on.
Correction A new PCM has been released to correct this condition. The new PCM has a 47 Micro
Henry choke in place to eliminate the interference generated by the on-board Ham radio
equipment.
Do not forget to transfer the Knock Sensor Module from the old PCM into the new PCM.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Code Labor Time
J6360 PCM, Replace Use Published Labor Operation Time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
Engine Control Module: Customer Interest PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-17
Date: July, 1997
Subject: Unstable Engine Idle (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with 3100 V6 Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
Condition
Some owners may experience an unstable engine idle. The controlled engine idle may vary
approximately 50 RPM from desired idle. This typically occurs during an extended idle period
beyond 30 seconds with the transmission in park or neutral and the air conditioning turned off.
Cause
The Pre Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S1) voltage output is driven low and holds there
(lean). The Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2s2) voltage output will hold then at a high
voltage (rich). This can drive one sensor to cancel out the other thus not allowing fuel trim or the
Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor can take over fuel trim control. If the Post Converter
Heated Oxygen takes over fuel trim control, the system thinks it is running rich and the Long Term
Fuel Trim will make adjustments to lean the system. Either of these conditions will cause a rolling
or hunting idle.
Correction
Check the calibration identification number utilizing a scan tool device. Re-flash with the updated
calibration if the current calibration is not one listed in this bulletin. If the vehicle already has the
most recent calibration, then refer to the appropriate service repair manual to diagnose and repair.
Test drive the vehicle after repair to ensure that the condition has been corrected. The new
calibrations are available from the GM Service Technology Group starting with CD number 12 for
1997.
Important:
There are three methods for programming a PCM
1. Direct Programming. The vehicle is directly connected via the Data Link Connector (DLC) on the
Dealers/Retailers Techline equipment. (T-20 Plus, T-50 and T-60 only) Vehicle must be present.
2. Remote programming. The new program is downloaded into the Dealers/Retailers scan tool and
then downloaded into the vehicle from the scan tool via the DLC. Tech 2 required. Vehicle must be
present.
3. Off-Car Programming. A PCM may be programmed while removed from the vehicle by using the
off-board programming adapter (OBPA), P/N 41207-B. This adapter can be connected to either the
Techline Terminal for direct programming or the scan tool for remote programming. Not necessary
for the vehicle to be present.
Refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Techline Information for more detailed instructions.
Parts Information
Part Number Carline Emission
16266904 Malibu, Cutlass USA Nationwide
16266914 Malibu, Cutlass Canadian/Unleaded
Export
16266924 Malibu Leaded Export
Important:
Do not attempt to order the calibrations from GMSPO. The calibrations are programmed into the
vehicle's PCM via a Techline Tool device.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable Engine Idle > Page 208
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 04-06-04-054B > Nov > 10 > Engine Controls Aftermarket Accessory Usage
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory
Usage
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-054B
Date: November 18, 2010
Subject: Info - Non-GM Parts and Accessories (Aftermarket)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years and update to the new U.S. Fixed
Operation Manager (FOM) and Canada Warranty Manager (WM) names. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 04-06-04-054A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
The recent rise and expansion of companies selling non-GM parts and accessories has made it
necessary to issue this reminder to dealers regarding GM's policy on the use and installation of
these aftermarket components.
When a dealer is performing a repair under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty, they are required to
use only genuine GM or GM-approved parts and accessories. This applies to all warranty repairs,
special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM. Parts and accessories advertised as being "the
same" as parts manufactured by GM, but not sold through GM, do not qualify for use in warranty
repairs, special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM.
During a warranty repair, if a GM original equipment part is not available through GM Customer
Care and Aftersales (GM CC&A;), ACDelco(R) distributors, other GM dealers or approved sources,
the dealer is to obtain comparable, non-GM parts and clearly indicate, in detail, on the repair order
the circumstances surrounding why non-GM parts were used. The dealer must give customers
written notice, prior to the sale or service, that such parts or accessories are not marketed or
warranted by General Motors.
It should also be noted that dealers modifying new vehicles and installing equipment, parts and
accessories obtained from sources not authorized by GM are responsible for complying with the
National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. Certain non-approved parts or assemblies, installed
by the dealer or its agent not authorized by GM, may result in a change to the vehicle's design
characteristics and may affect the vehicle's ability to conform to federal law. Dealers must fully
understand that non-GM approved parts may not have been validated, tested or certified for use.
This puts the dealer at risk for potential liability in the event of a part or vehicle failure. If a GM part
failure occurs as the result of the installation or use of a non-GM approved part, the warranty will
not be honored.
A good example of non-authorized modification of vehicles is the result of an ever increasing
supply of aftermarket devices available to the customer, which claim to increase the horsepower
and torque of the Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines. These include the addition of, but are not limited to
one or more of the following modifications:
- Propane injection
- Nitrous oxide injection
- Additional modules (black boxes) that connect to the vehicle wiring systems
- Revised engine calibrations downloaded for the engine control module
- Calibration modules which connect to the vehicle diagnostic connector
- Modification to the engine turbocharger waste gate
Although the installation of these devices, or modification of vehicle components, can increase
engine horsepower and torque, they may also negatively affect the engine emissions, reliability
and/or durability. In addition, other powertrain components, such as transmissions, universal joints,
drive shafts, and front/rear axle components, can be stressed beyond design safety limits by the
installation of these devices.
General Motors does not support or endorse the use of devices or modifications that, when
installed, increase the engine horsepower and torque. It is because of these unknown stresses,
and the potential to alter reliability, durability and emissions performance, that GM has adopted a
policy that prevents any UNAUTHORIZED dealer warranty claim submissions to any remaining
warranty coverage, to the powertrain and driveline components whenever the presence of a
non-GM (aftermarket) calibration is confirmed - even if the non-GM control module calibration is
subsequently removed. Refer to the latest version of Bulletin 09-06-04-026 (V8 Gas Engines) or
06-06-01-007 (Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines) for more information on dealer requirements for
calibration verification.
These same policies apply as they relate to the use of non-GM accessories. Damage or failure
from the use or installation of a non-GM accessory will not be covered under warranty. Failure
resulting from the alteration or modification of the vehicle, including the cutting, welding or
disconnecting of the vehicle's original equipment parts and components will void the warranty.
Additionally, dealers will NOT be reimbursed or compensated by GM in the event of any legal
inquiry at either the local, state or federal level that
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 04-06-04-054B > Nov > 10 > Engine Controls Aftermarket Accessory Usage > Page 214
results from the alteration or modification of a vehicle using non-GM approved parts or accessories.
Dealers should be especially cautious of accessory companies that claim the installation of their
product will not void the factory warranty. Many times these companies have even given direction
on how to quickly disassemble the accessory in an attempt to preclude the manufacturer from
finding out that is has been installed.
Any suspect repairs should be reviewed by the Fixed Operations Manager (FOM), and in Canada
by the Warranty Manager (WM) for appropriate repair direction. If it is decided that a goodwill repair
is to be made on the vehicle, even with the installation of such non-GM approved components, the
customer is to be made aware of General Motors position on this issue and is to sign the
appropriate goodwill documentation required by General Motors.
It is imperative for dealers to understand that by installing such devices, they are jeopardizing not
only the warranty coverage, but also the performance and reliability of the customer's vehicle.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 02-08-116-001 > Jan > 02 > PCM - Intermittent
Communication or DTC Codes Stored
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM - Intermittent Communication or DTC
Codes Stored
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 02-08-116-001
Date: January, 2002
INFORMATION
Subject: Intermittent Communication or Serial Data DTC Codes Stored in History
Models: 1997-2002 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2002 Oldsmobile Alero 1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass
1999-2002 Pontiac Grand Am with 3.1L or 3.4L Engine (VINs J, M, E - RPOs LG8, L82, LA1)
Ignition Switch Usage
It is possible to set a Serial Data DTC Code with improper usage of the ignition switch. On the
above vehicles, if the ignition key is held between the ACCESSORY and ON position for over 5
seconds, and then rotated to ON and START sequentially, it is possible to set various DTC codes.
The customer may see an illuminated Service Engine Soon, ABS and/or ETS OFF (Electronic
Traction System) telltale. The next time the ignition switch is cycled, any set DTC codes will be
stored in history and any telltales will be turned off.
Important:
If the above condition is encountered and the ETS OFF and ABS lights are illuminated, the ABS
and ETS systems will be deactivated for that key cycle. Normal functioning of these systems will
resume with the next key cycle.
Why Does This Happen?
If the ignition switch is held between the ACCESSORY and ON detent positions, it is possible to
find a spot where the Ignition 1 input will be lost. If this condition remains for over 5 seconds, the
PCM will interpret the loss of that signal as a communication fault and set an appropriate DTC
code.
How to Resolve This Issue
^ Instruct the customer on the proper operation of the ignition switch.
^ Instruct the customer not to "fiddle" with the switch. Actions such as slowly turning the key in
order to see what instrument panel displays light in what order should be discouraged.
^ Do not attempt to hold the switch between detent positions.
^ Assure the customer that no fault exists in the vehicle and that under normal operating
conditions, this concern should not reappear.
^ There are no possible software changes that will prevent the above condition.
^ Do not attempt to replace the ignition switch to remedy this condition.
^ You may clear the history codes to eliminate any later diagnostic confusion. Refer to the Tech 2
Diagnostic Scan Tool Operating Manual for specific instructions on clearing history codes.
Important:
Do not attempt any repairs on the vehicle to remedy this condition.
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 83-81-32 > Sep > 98 > PCM Connector - Information
on New Service Kits
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM Connector - Information on New
Service Kits
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-81-32
Date: September, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: New Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Connector Service Kits
Models: 1996-99 All Passenger Cars except Geo and Catera
Two new kits have been released to service the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connector If the
connector has been damaged during servicing. This PCM has an aluminum body and is usually
mounted underhood.
Kit (P/N 12167308) contains the 80 way connector body, the cover, two each of four different
terminal retainers and 25 empty cavity plugs. No terminals are included.
If terminals are needed, use P/N 12084913 for 0.35 mm and 0.50 mm wire and P/N 12084912 for
0.80 mm wire. These terminals are included in the terminal repair kit J 38125A or B, and
replacements can be ordered from Kent-Moore.
kit (P/N 12167313) contains one connector seal. Whenever the connector is unbolted from the
aluminum body of the PCM, the seal can stick to the body, or may be twisted. This seal should be
replaced whenever the connector is removed in service.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12167308 Kit, PCM Harness Repair
12167313 Seal Kit, PCM Connector
12084912 Terminal
12084913 Terminal
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 77-65-29 > Nov > 97 > Instruments - Cluster Resets
When Ham Radio Is Keyed
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Instruments - Cluster Resets When Ham
Radio Is Keyed
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-29
Date: November, 1997
Subject: Instrument Cluster Resets when On-board Ham Radio is Keyed (Replace the PCM)
Models: 1997 Buick Century, Regal 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with
310013800 V6 Engine (VINs M, K, 1 - RPOs L82, L36, L67)
Condition Some vehicles may experience an instrument cluster reset if the vehicle has an on-board
Ham radio operating under the 10 MHz frequency range and the transmitter is keyed on.
Correction A new PCM has been released to correct this condition. The new PCM has a 47 Micro
Henry choke in place to eliminate the interference generated by the on-board Ham radio
equipment.
Do not forget to transfer the Knock Sensor Module from the old PCM into the new PCM.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Code Labor Time
J6360 PCM, Replace Use Published Labor Operation Time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-17
Date: July, 1997
Subject: Unstable Engine Idle (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with 3100 V6 Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
Condition
Some owners may experience an unstable engine idle. The controlled engine idle may vary
approximately 50 RPM from desired idle. This typically occurs during an extended idle period
beyond 30 seconds with the transmission in park or neutral and the air conditioning turned off.
Cause
The Pre Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S1) voltage output is driven low and holds there
(lean). The Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2s2) voltage output will hold then at a high
voltage (rich). This can drive one sensor to cancel out the other thus not allowing fuel trim or the
Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor can take over fuel trim control. If the Post Converter
Heated Oxygen takes over fuel trim control, the system thinks it is running rich and the Long Term
Fuel Trim will make adjustments to lean the system. Either of these conditions will cause a rolling
or hunting idle.
Correction
Check the calibration identification number utilizing a scan tool device. Re-flash with the updated
calibration if the current calibration is not one listed in this bulletin. If the vehicle already has the
most recent calibration, then refer to the appropriate service repair manual to diagnose and repair.
Test drive the vehicle after repair to ensure that the condition has been corrected. The new
calibrations are available from the GM Service Technology Group starting with CD number 12 for
1997.
Important:
There are three methods for programming a PCM
1. Direct Programming. The vehicle is directly connected via the Data Link Connector (DLC) on the
Dealers/Retailers Techline equipment. (T-20 Plus, T-50 and T-60 only) Vehicle must be present.
2. Remote programming. The new program is downloaded into the Dealers/Retailers scan tool and
then downloaded into the vehicle from the scan tool via the DLC. Tech 2 required. Vehicle must be
present.
3. Off-Car Programming. A PCM may be programmed while removed from the vehicle by using the
off-board programming adapter (OBPA), P/N 41207-B. This adapter can be connected to either the
Techline Terminal for direct programming or the scan tool for remote programming. Not necessary
for the vehicle to be present.
Refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Techline Information for more detailed instructions.
Parts Information
Part Number Carline Emission
16266904 Malibu, Cutlass USA Nationwide
16266914 Malibu, Cutlass Canadian/Unleaded
Export
16266924 Malibu Leaded Export
Important:
Do not attempt to order the calibrations from GMSPO. The calibrations are programmed into the
vehicle's PCM via a Techline Tool device.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
> Page 231
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off
Board Program Adapter
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board
Program Adapter
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 73-65-13
Date: March, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Reprogramming Capability using the Off Board Programming Adapter
Models: 1993-97 Passenger Cars and Trucks (Applicable Reprogrammable Vehicles)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off
Board Program Adapter > Page 236
The General Motors vehicles contain Electronically Reprogrammable Devices (i.e. PCM, VCM,
ECM). These vehicles cannot be programmed through PROM replacement, however service
programming capability is available through the Tech 1/1A, Tech 2 and Techline terminals via
direct or remote programming.
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has requested that all new vehicle manufacturers
ensure their dealers/retailers are aware that they are responsible for providing customers access to
reprogramming services at a reasonable cost and in a timely manner.
Although programming of controllers has become a common service practice at GM
dealers/retailers, the EPA has received reports from consumers and the aftermarket repair industry
that they were unable to purchase a new (programmed) Electronically Reprogrammable Device
(ERD) over-the-counter. As a result, on August 1, 1995, the Federal Government issued a
regulation requiring all manufacturers to make available reprogramming to the independent
aftermarket by December 1, 1997.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off
Board Program Adapter > Page 237
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off
Board Program Adapter > Page 238
Today, the Off Board Programming Adapter (OBPA) is used to reprogram ERD's sold
over-the-counter. For all practical purposes, the OBPA takes the place of the vehicle when the
vehicle is not available.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off
Board Program Adapter > Page 239
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off
Board Program Adapter > Page 240
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off
Board Program Adapter > Page 241
The list of dealerships/retailers currently own the OBPA (see Attachments 1 - 3). These locations
are equipped to provide over-the-counter preprogrammed ERD's. The hardware required to
perform reprogramming in addition to the OBPA is a Techline terminal, Tech 1/1A and associated
cables and adapters. THE TECH 2 SHOULD NOT BE USED WITH THE OBPA AT THIS TIME
BECAUSE OF INADEQUATE OBPA GROUNDING.
The current OBPA can support reprogramming on all late model General Motor's vehicles except:
^ Premium V-8's
^ 1996 Diesel Truck
^ Cadillac Catera
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off
Board Program Adapter > Page 242
^ All 1997 programmable vehicles (requires use of the Tech 2)
A modification to the OBPA is being offered by Kent-Moore to support these additional vehicles and
to allow reprogramming using the Tech 2. The revisions to the OBPA for the Tech 2 is very
important as the Tech 2 is the only tool used for service programming for 1997 and future vehicles.
To have the modifications performed, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The revisions (part
number J 41207 REV-C) are free of charge for GM dealerships/retailers.
A dealership/retailer can purchase the OBPA by contacting Kent-Moore (part number J 41207-C).
Support on how to use the OBPA is provided by the Techline Customer Support Center (TCSC) at
(800) 828-6860 (English) or (800) 503-3222 (French).
If you need to purchase an OBPA and/or cable, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The OBPA
retails for $695.00 (includes all revisions 1-4) under part number J 41207-C.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 676535 > Nov > 96 > PCM - New Identification
Label
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM - New Identification Label
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 67-65-35
Date: November, 1996
INFORMATION
Subject: New PCM Identification Label
Models: Late 1996 and All 1997 Passenger Cars with Powertrain Control Modules (PCM)
PCM Label
Effective March 7, 1996, all 1996-1/2 and 1997 model year passenger cars received a change to
the identification label used on PCM's. Other than its appearance, these changes do not affect the
service replacement procedure of PCM's. The illustration details the changes.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 04-06-04-054B > Nov > 10 > Engine Controls Aftermarket Accessory Usage
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory
Usage
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-054B
Date: November 18, 2010
Subject: Info - Non-GM Parts and Accessories (Aftermarket)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years and update to the new U.S. Fixed
Operation Manager (FOM) and Canada Warranty Manager (WM) names. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 04-06-04-054A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
The recent rise and expansion of companies selling non-GM parts and accessories has made it
necessary to issue this reminder to dealers regarding GM's policy on the use and installation of
these aftermarket components.
When a dealer is performing a repair under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty, they are required to
use only genuine GM or GM-approved parts and accessories. This applies to all warranty repairs,
special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM. Parts and accessories advertised as being "the
same" as parts manufactured by GM, but not sold through GM, do not qualify for use in warranty
repairs, special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM.
During a warranty repair, if a GM original equipment part is not available through GM Customer
Care and Aftersales (GM CC&A;), ACDelco(R) distributors, other GM dealers or approved sources,
the dealer is to obtain comparable, non-GM parts and clearly indicate, in detail, on the repair order
the circumstances surrounding why non-GM parts were used. The dealer must give customers
written notice, prior to the sale or service, that such parts or accessories are not marketed or
warranted by General Motors.
It should also be noted that dealers modifying new vehicles and installing equipment, parts and
accessories obtained from sources not authorized by GM are responsible for complying with the
National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. Certain non-approved parts or assemblies, installed
by the dealer or its agent not authorized by GM, may result in a change to the vehicle's design
characteristics and may affect the vehicle's ability to conform to federal law. Dealers must fully
understand that non-GM approved parts may not have been validated, tested or certified for use.
This puts the dealer at risk for potential liability in the event of a part or vehicle failure. If a GM part
failure occurs as the result of the installation or use of a non-GM approved part, the warranty will
not be honored.
A good example of non-authorized modification of vehicles is the result of an ever increasing
supply of aftermarket devices available to the customer, which claim to increase the horsepower
and torque of the Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines. These include the addition of, but are not limited to
one or more of the following modifications:
- Propane injection
- Nitrous oxide injection
- Additional modules (black boxes) that connect to the vehicle wiring systems
- Revised engine calibrations downloaded for the engine control module
- Calibration modules which connect to the vehicle diagnostic connector
- Modification to the engine turbocharger waste gate
Although the installation of these devices, or modification of vehicle components, can increase
engine horsepower and torque, they may also negatively affect the engine emissions, reliability
and/or durability. In addition, other powertrain components, such as transmissions, universal joints,
drive shafts, and front/rear axle components, can be stressed beyond design safety limits by the
installation of these devices.
General Motors does not support or endorse the use of devices or modifications that, when
installed, increase the engine horsepower and torque. It is because of these unknown stresses,
and the potential to alter reliability, durability and emissions performance, that GM has adopted a
policy that prevents any UNAUTHORIZED dealer warranty claim submissions to any remaining
warranty coverage, to the powertrain and driveline components whenever the presence of a
non-GM (aftermarket) calibration is confirmed - even if the non-GM control module calibration is
subsequently removed. Refer to the latest version of Bulletin 09-06-04-026 (V8 Gas Engines) or
06-06-01-007 (Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines) for more information on dealer requirements for
calibration verification.
These same policies apply as they relate to the use of non-GM accessories. Damage or failure
from the use or installation of a non-GM accessory will not be covered under warranty. Failure
resulting from the alteration or modification of the vehicle, including the cutting, welding or
disconnecting of the vehicle's original equipment parts and components will void the warranty.
Additionally, dealers will NOT be reimbursed or compensated by GM in the event of any legal
inquiry at either the local, state or federal level that
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results from the alteration or modification of a vehicle using non-GM approved parts or accessories.
Dealers should be especially cautious of accessory companies that claim the installation of their
product will not void the factory warranty. Many times these companies have even given direction
on how to quickly disassemble the accessory in an attempt to preclude the manufacturer from
finding out that is has been installed.
Any suspect repairs should be reviewed by the Fixed Operations Manager (FOM), and in Canada
by the Warranty Manager (WM) for appropriate repair direction. If it is decided that a goodwill repair
is to be made on the vehicle, even with the installation of such non-GM approved components, the
customer is to be made aware of General Motors position on this issue and is to sign the
appropriate goodwill documentation required by General Motors.
It is imperative for dealers to understand that by installing such devices, they are jeopardizing not
only the warranty coverage, but also the performance and reliability of the customer's vehicle.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 02-08-116-001 > Jan > 02 > PCM - Intermittent
Communication or DTC Codes Stored
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM - Intermittent Communication or DTC
Codes Stored
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 02-08-116-001
Date: January, 2002
INFORMATION
Subject: Intermittent Communication or Serial Data DTC Codes Stored in History
Models: 1997-2002 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2002 Oldsmobile Alero 1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass
1999-2002 Pontiac Grand Am with 3.1L or 3.4L Engine (VINs J, M, E - RPOs LG8, L82, LA1)
Ignition Switch Usage
It is possible to set a Serial Data DTC Code with improper usage of the ignition switch. On the
above vehicles, if the ignition key is held between the ACCESSORY and ON position for over 5
seconds, and then rotated to ON and START sequentially, it is possible to set various DTC codes.
The customer may see an illuminated Service Engine Soon, ABS and/or ETS OFF (Electronic
Traction System) telltale. The next time the ignition switch is cycled, any set DTC codes will be
stored in history and any telltales will be turned off.
Important:
If the above condition is encountered and the ETS OFF and ABS lights are illuminated, the ABS
and ETS systems will be deactivated for that key cycle. Normal functioning of these systems will
resume with the next key cycle.
Why Does This Happen?
If the ignition switch is held between the ACCESSORY and ON detent positions, it is possible to
find a spot where the Ignition 1 input will be lost. If this condition remains for over 5 seconds, the
PCM will interpret the loss of that signal as a communication fault and set an appropriate DTC
code.
How to Resolve This Issue
^ Instruct the customer on the proper operation of the ignition switch.
^ Instruct the customer not to "fiddle" with the switch. Actions such as slowly turning the key in
order to see what instrument panel displays light in what order should be discouraged.
^ Do not attempt to hold the switch between detent positions.
^ Assure the customer that no fault exists in the vehicle and that under normal operating
conditions, this concern should not reappear.
^ There are no possible software changes that will prevent the above condition.
^ Do not attempt to replace the ignition switch to remedy this condition.
^ You may clear the history codes to eliminate any later diagnostic confusion. Refer to the Tech 2
Diagnostic Scan Tool Operating Manual for specific instructions on clearing history codes.
Important:
Do not attempt any repairs on the vehicle to remedy this condition.
DISCLAIMER
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Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 83-81-32 > Sep > 98 > PCM Connector - Information on
New Service Kits
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM Connector - Information on New
Service Kits
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-81-32
Date: September, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: New Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Connector Service Kits
Models: 1996-99 All Passenger Cars except Geo and Catera
Two new kits have been released to service the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connector If the
connector has been damaged during servicing. This PCM has an aluminum body and is usually
mounted underhood.
Kit (P/N 12167308) contains the 80 way connector body, the cover, two each of four different
terminal retainers and 25 empty cavity plugs. No terminals are included.
If terminals are needed, use P/N 12084913 for 0.35 mm and 0.50 mm wire and P/N 12084912 for
0.80 mm wire. These terminals are included in the terminal repair kit J 38125A or B, and
replacements can be ordered from Kent-Moore.
kit (P/N 12167313) contains one connector seal. Whenever the connector is unbolted from the
aluminum body of the PCM, the seal can stick to the body, or may be twisted. This seal should be
replaced whenever the connector is removed in service.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12167308 Kit, PCM Harness Repair
12167313 Seal Kit, PCM Connector
12084912 Terminal
12084913 Terminal
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off
Board Program Adapter
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board
Program Adapter
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 73-65-13
Date: March, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Reprogramming Capability using the Off Board Programming Adapter
Models: 1993-97 Passenger Cars and Trucks (Applicable Reprogrammable Vehicles)
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Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off
Board Program Adapter > Page 265
The General Motors vehicles contain Electronically Reprogrammable Devices (i.e. PCM, VCM,
ECM). These vehicles cannot be programmed through PROM replacement, however service
programming capability is available through the Tech 1/1A, Tech 2 and Techline terminals via
direct or remote programming.
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has requested that all new vehicle manufacturers
ensure their dealers/retailers are aware that they are responsible for providing customers access to
reprogramming services at a reasonable cost and in a timely manner.
Although programming of controllers has become a common service practice at GM
dealers/retailers, the EPA has received reports from consumers and the aftermarket repair industry
that they were unable to purchase a new (programmed) Electronically Reprogrammable Device
(ERD) over-the-counter. As a result, on August 1, 1995, the Federal Government issued a
regulation requiring all manufacturers to make available reprogramming to the independent
aftermarket by December 1, 1997.
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Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off
Board Program Adapter > Page 266
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off
Board Program Adapter > Page 267
Today, the Off Board Programming Adapter (OBPA) is used to reprogram ERD's sold
over-the-counter. For all practical purposes, the OBPA takes the place of the vehicle when the
vehicle is not available.
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Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off
Board Program Adapter > Page 268
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off
Board Program Adapter > Page 269
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off
Board Program Adapter > Page 270
The list of dealerships/retailers currently own the OBPA (see Attachments 1 - 3). These locations
are equipped to provide over-the-counter preprogrammed ERD's. The hardware required to
perform reprogramming in addition to the OBPA is a Techline terminal, Tech 1/1A and associated
cables and adapters. THE TECH 2 SHOULD NOT BE USED WITH THE OBPA AT THIS TIME
BECAUSE OF INADEQUATE OBPA GROUNDING.
The current OBPA can support reprogramming on all late model General Motor's vehicles except:
^ Premium V-8's
^ 1996 Diesel Truck
^ Cadillac Catera
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Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off
Board Program Adapter > Page 271
^ All 1997 programmable vehicles (requires use of the Tech 2)
A modification to the OBPA is being offered by Kent-Moore to support these additional vehicles and
to allow reprogramming using the Tech 2. The revisions to the OBPA for the Tech 2 is very
important as the Tech 2 is the only tool used for service programming for 1997 and future vehicles.
To have the modifications performed, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The revisions (part
number J 41207 REV-C) are free of charge for GM dealerships/retailers.
A dealership/retailer can purchase the OBPA by contacting Kent-Moore (part number J 41207-C).
Support on how to use the OBPA is provided by the Techline Customer Support Center (TCSC) at
(800) 828-6860 (English) or (800) 503-3222 (French).
If you need to purchase an OBPA and/or cable, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The OBPA
retails for $695.00 (includes all revisions 1-4) under part number J 41207-C.
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Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 676535 > Nov > 96 > PCM - New Identification Label
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM - New Identification Label
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 67-65-35
Date: November, 1996
INFORMATION
Subject: New PCM Identification Label
Models: Late 1996 and All 1997 Passenger Cars with Powertrain Control Modules (PCM)
PCM Label
Effective March 7, 1996, all 1996-1/2 and 1997 model year passenger cars received a change to
the identification label used on PCM's. Other than its appearance, these changes do not affect the
service replacement procedure of PCM's. The illustration details the changes.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations
Engine Control Module: Component Locations
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)
RH Front Of Dash
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is located in the RH front of Instrument Panel.
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations > Page 278
Below LH Side Of I/P, Near Steering Column
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Information and Instructions
Engine Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Engine Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Engine Control Module: Connector Views
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Engine Control Module: Service Precautions
CAUTION: In order to prevent possible Electrostatic Discharge damage to the PCM, Do Not touch
the connector pins or the soldered components on the circuit board.
Electronic components used in the control systems are often designed in order to carry very low
voltage. Electronic components are susceptible to damage caused by electrostatic discharge. Less
than 100 volts of static electricity can cause damage to some electronic components. There are
several ways for a person to become statically charged. The most common methods of charging
are by friction and by induction. An example of charging by friction is a person sliding across a car
seat. Charging by induction occurs when a person with well insulated shoes stands near a highly
charged object and momentarily touches ground. Charges of the same polarity are drained off
leaving the person highly charged with the opposite polarity. Static charges can cause damage;
therefore, it is important to use care when handling and testing electronic components.
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Engine Control Module: Application and ID
PCM Label
*****This is a TSB Update-Bulletin No.: 67-65-35, Date: November, 1996*****
INFORMATION
Subject: New PCM Identification Label
Effective March 7, 1996, all 1996-1/2 and 1997 model year passenger cars received a change to
the identification label used on PCM's. Other than its appearance, these changes do not affect the
service replacement procedure of PCM's. The illustration details the changes.
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Engine Control Module: Description and Operation
Figure C1-1 - Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Description
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is located underhood in front of the right strut tower near the
engine coolant reservoir. It is the control center of the fuel injection system and constantly looks at
the information from various sensors and controls the systems that affect vehicle performance. It
controls the following items:
^ Fuel metering system.
^ Transaxle shifting.
^ Ignition timing.
^ On-board diagnostics for Powertrain functions.
It constantly looks at the information from various sensors, and controls the systems that affect
vehicle performance. The PCM also performs the diagnostic function of the system. It can
recognize operational problems, alert the driver through the MIL (Service Engine Soon), and store
diagnostic trouble codes which identify the problem areas to aid the technician in making repairs.
Refer to Introduction in Engine Controls for more information on using the diagnostic function of the
PCM.
For service, the PCM consists of two parts:
^ The controller (the PCM without the Knock Sensor module).
^ the Knock Sensor module.
PCM Function
The PCM supplies either 5 or 12 volts to power various sensors or switches. This is done through
resistances in the PCM which are so high in value that a test light will not light when connected to
the circuit. In some cases, even an ordinary shop voltmeter will not give an accurate reading
because its resistance is too low. Therefore, a digital voltmeter with at least 10 megohms input
impedance is required to ensure accurate voltage readings. Tool J 39200 meets this requirement.
EEPROM
The Electrically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory (EEPROM) is a permanent memory
that is physically soldered within the PCM. The EEPROM contains program and calibration
information that the PCM needs to control powertrain operation. Unlike the PROM used in certain
past applications, the EEPROM is not replaceable. If the PCM is replaced, the new PCM will need
to be programmed Techline equipment (Tech-2) containing the correct program and calibration for
the vehicle is required to program the PCM.
Knock Sensor Module
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The PCM contains a replaceable Knock Sensor (KS) module. The KS module contains the circuitry
that allows the PCM to utilize the KS signal and diagnose the KS sensor and circuitry. If the PCM is
replaced, the KS module needs to be transferred from the original PCM. If the KS module is
missing or faulty causing a continuous knock condition to be indicated, the PCM will set DTC
P0325.
Information Sensors
All of the sensors and input switches can be diagnosed using a scan tool. Following is a short
description of how the sensors and switches can be diagnosed by using a scan tool. The scan tool
can also be used to compare the values for a normal running engine with the engine you are
diagnosing.
Password Learn Procedure
In order for a theft deterrent vehicle to run, a password is communicated between the instrument
Panel Cluster (IPC) and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). If a PCM is replaced, the new PCM
needs to learn the correct password of the vehicle. When the new PCM is installed, the EEPROM
calibration is flashed into the new PCM and the vehicle will learn the new password upon initial
ignition On. If the IPC is replaced, the PCM needs to learn the new password from the IPC. The
Password learn procedure is as follows:
1. Attempt to start vehicle, then leave the ignition On. The Theft System telltale will flash for 10
minutes. 2. When the Theft System telltale stops flashing, start the vehicle. Once the vehicle is
running, the password is learned.
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Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Engine Control Module: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure
The crankshaft position system variation compensating values are stored in the PCM non-volatile
memory after a learn procedure has been performed. If the actual crankshaft position system
variation is not within the crankshaft position system variation compensating values stored in the
PCM, DTC P0300 may set refer to DTC P0300 Engine Misfire Detected. See: Powertrain
Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
The Crankshaft Position System Variation Learn Procedure should be performed if any of the
following conditions are true:
^ DTC P1336 is set.
^ The PCM has been replaced.
^ The PCM has been reprogrammed.
^ The engine has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft harmonic balancer has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft position sensor has been replaced.
Important: The scan tool crankshaft position system variation learn function will be inhibited if
engine coolant temperature is less than 70°C (156°F). Allow the engine to warm to at least 70°C
(156°F) before attempting the crankshaft position system variation learn procedure.
The scan tool crankshaft position system variation learn function will be inhibited if any powertrain
DTCs other than DTC P1336 are set before or during the crankshaft position system variation learn
procedure. Diagnose and repair any DTCs if set. The crankshaft position system variation learn
function will be inhibited if the PCM detects a malfunction involving the camshaft position signal
circuit, the 3X reference circuit, or the 24X reference circuit.
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the Cam signal, refer to DTC P0341 CMP Sensor Circuit
Performance. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and
Inspection
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the 3X crank signal, refer to DTC P1374 3X Reference
Circuit. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the 24X crank signal, refer to DTC P0336 24X Reference
Signal Circuit. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and
Inspection
1. Set the parking brake. 2. Start the engine and allow engine coolant temperature to reach at least
70°C (158°F). 3. Turn OFF the ignition switch. 4. Select the crankshaft position variation learn
procedure from the scan tool special functions list. 5. Follow the instructions displayed on the scan
tool. If the procedure is terminated, refer to Important above for instructions. 6. Observe DTC status
for DTC P1336. 7. If the scan tool indicates that DTC P1336 ran and passed, the crankshaft
position system variation learn procedure is complete. If the scan tool
indicates DTC P1336 failed or not run, check for other DTCs. If no DTCs other than P1336 are set,
repeat the crankshaft position system variation learn procedure as necessary.
PCM Diagnosis
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Figure C1-1 - Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Important: The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is programmed into the PCM. Do not exchange
a PCM from another vehicle for testing or replacement. When replacing the PCM, the VIN must
also be programmed into the new PCM.
Because the PCM can have a failure which may affect only one circuit, follow the diagnostic
procedures to determine which circuit has a problem and where it is.
If a diagnostic chart indicates that the PCM connections or PCM is the cause of a problem and the
PCM is replaced, but does not correct the problem, one of the following may be the reason:
There is a problem with the PCM terminal connections, The diagnostic chart will say PCM
connections or PCM. The terminals may have to be removed from the connector in order to check
them properly.
^ EEPROM program is not correct for the application. Incorrect components may cause a
malfunction and may or may not set a DTC.
^ The problem is intermittent. This means that the problem is not present at the time the system is
being checked. In this case, refer to the Symptoms and make a careful physical inspection of all
components and wiring associated with the affected system. See: Powertrain
Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
^ There is a shorted solenoid, relay coil, or harness. Solenoids and relays are turned on and off by
the PCM using internal electronic switches called drivers. Each driver is part of a group of seven
called Output Driver Modules. A shorted solenoid, relay coil, or harness will not damage the PCM
but will cause the solenoid or relay to be inoperative. The J 34636 tester, or equivalent, provides a
fast, accurate means of checking for a shorted coil or a short to battery voltage.
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Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Password Learn Procedure
In order for a theft deterrent vehicle to run, a password is communicated between the Body
Function Control (BFC) and the PCM. If a PCM is replaced, the new PCM needs to learn the
correct password of the vehicle. When the new PCM is installed, the EEPROM calibration is
flashed into the new PCM and the vehicle will learn the new password upon the initial ignition ON
cycle. If the Body Function Control (BFC) is replaced, the PCM needs to learn the new password
from the Body Function Control (BFC). The password learn procedure is as follows:
1. Attempt to the start vehicle. The vehicle will stall. 2. Leave the ignition ON until the Theft System
telltale turns off (approx.10 minutes). 3. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 4. Attempt to the start vehicle.
The vehicle will start on the this attempt. The password is now learned.
Attempting to start the vehicle by bypassing the Passlock II system or substituting parts without
performing the password learn procedure may set a DTC P1630 and P1631.
If no password is received a DTC P1610 and P1626 may be set. Refer to the applicable DTC table
if set. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Replacement
PCM Replacement/Programming (Replacement)
Notice: In order to prevent internal damage to the PCM, the ignition must be OFF when
disconnecting or reconnecting the PCM connector.
Note: Service of the PCM should normally consist of either replacement of the PCM, EEPROM
re-programming. If the diagnostic procedures call for the PCM to be replaced, the PCM should be
checked first to see if it is the correct part. DTC P0601 indicates the EEPROM programming has
malfunctioned. When DTC P0601 is obtained, re-program the EEPROM. The ignition should be
OFF for at least 10 seconds before disconnecting power to the PCM so the IAC valve has time to
move to the engine OFF position.
Removal Procedure
Important: To prevent internal PCM damage, the ignition must be off when disconnecting or
reconnecting power to PCM (for example, battery cable, PCM pigtail, PCM fuse, jumper cables,
etc.). The ignition should be OFF for at least 10 seconds before disconnecting power to the PCM
so the IAC valve has time to move to the engine OFF position.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the LH hush panel. 3. Loosen the PCM
connector screws (1).
Notice: In order to prevent possible electrostatic discharge damage to the PCM, do not touch the
connector pins or soldered components on the circuit board. Do not remove the integrated circuit
boards from the carrier.
4. Disconnect the PCM electrical connectors. 5. Remove the PCM Retainer. 6. Slide the PCM from
the PCM bracket.
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Installation Procedure
Remove the new PCM from its packaging and check the service number to make sure it is the
same number or updated number as the faulty PCM.
1. Slide the PCM into the PCM bracket. 2. Install the PCM Retainer.
Notice: In order to prevent possible electrostatic discharge damage to the PCM, do not touch the
connector pins or soldered components on the circuit board. Do not remove the integrated circuit
boards from the carrier.
3. Install the PCM electrical connectors. 4. Tighten the PCM connector screws (1). 5. Install the LH
hush panel. 6. Connect the negative battery cable.
Important: Replacement PCMs must be reprogrammed and the crankshaft position system
variation procedure must be performed. Refer to the latest Techline information for PCM
programming and Crankshaft Position System Variation Procedure. See: Powertrain
Management/Computers and Control Systems/Crankshaft Position Sensor/Testing and Inspection
7. Reprogram the PCM.
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor Module > Component Information > Service Precautions
Knock Sensor Module: Service Precautions
CAUTION: In order to prevent possible Electrostatic Discharge damage to the PCM, Do Not touch
the connector pins or the soldered components on the circuit board.
Electronic components used in the control systems are often designed in order to carry very low
voltage. Electronic components are susceptible to damage caused by electrostatic discharge. Less
than 100 volts of static electricity can cause damage to some electronic components. There are
several ways for a person to become statically charged. The most common methods of charging
are by friction and by induction. An example of charging by friction is a person sliding across a car
seat. Charging by induction occurs when a person with well insulated shoes stands near a highly
charged object and momentarily touches ground. Charges of the same polarity are drained off
leaving the person highly charged with the opposite polarity. Static charges can cause damage;
therefore, it is important to use care when handling and testing electronic components.
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Knock Sensor Module: Description and Operation
Knock Sensor Inside PCM
Description
The PCM contains a replaceable Knock Sensor (KS) module. The KS module contains the circuitry
that allows the PCM to utilize the KS signal and diagnose the KS sensor and circuitry. If the PCM is
replaced, the KS module needs to be transferred from the original PCM. If the KS module is
missing or faulty causing a continuous knock condition to be indicated, the PCM will set DTC
P0325.
The scan tool has four data displays available for diagnosing the KS system. The 4 displays are
described as follows:
^ KS Activity is used to monitor the input signal from the knock sensor. This counter will display
Yes while knock is being detected.
^ Knock Retard is the indication of how much the PCM is retarding the spark. The PCM will retard
spark in response to the Knock signal or the Traction Control system Desired Torque signal.
^ KS Noise Channel indicates the current voltage level being monitored on the noise channel.
DTCs P0325, P0326, and P0327 are designed to diagnose the KS module, the knock sensors, and
related wiring, so problems encountered with the KS system should set a DTC. However, if no DTC
was set but the KS system is suspect because detonation was the customer's complaint, refer to
Detonation/Spark Knock in Symptoms. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control
Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Page 334
Knock Sensor Module: Testing and Inspection
The PCM contains a replaceable Knock Sensor (KS) module. The KS module contains the circuitry
that allows the PCM to utilize the KS signal and diagnose the KS sensors and circuitry. If the KS
module is missing or faulty causing a continuous knock condition to be indicated, the PCM will set
DTC P0325.
The scan tool has four data displays available for diagnosing the KS system. The 4 displays are
described as follows:
^ KS Activity is used to monitor the input signal from the knock sensor. This counter will display
Yes while knock is being detected.
^ Knock Retard is the indication of how much the PCM is retarding the spark. The PCM will retard
spark in response to the Knock signal or the Traction Control system Desired Torque signal.
^ KS Noise Channel indicates the current voltage level being monitored on the noise channel.
DTCs P0325, P0326, and P0327 are designed to diagnose the KS module, the knock sensors, and
related wiring, so problems encountered with the KS system should set a DTC. However, if no DTC
was set but the KS system is suspect because detonation was the customer's complaint, refer to
Detonation/Spark Knock in Symptoms. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control
Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Knock Sensor Module: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the PCM. Refer to PCM Replacement/Programming. 2. Remove the access cover from
the PCM. 3. Carefully squeeze the latches on the KS Module and carefully remove the KS Module.
Apply pressure in the direction as shown.
Installation Procedure
1. Carefully insert the KS module into the socket. 2. Carefully press down on the KS Module until
the latches catch. 3. Install the PCM access cover. 4. Install the PCM. Refer to PCM
Replacement/Programming.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Control Unit > Component Information > Diagrams
Fuel Tank Module
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Locations
Fuel Pump Relay: Locations
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Left Side Of Engine Compartment
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Fuel Pump Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Fuel Pump Relay: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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and Instructions > Page 371
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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and Instructions > Page 372
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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and Instructions > Page 375
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 376
Fuel Pump Relay: Description and Operation
FUEL PUMP ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT
When the key is first turned ON the PCM energizes the fuel pump relay for two seconds to build up
the fuel pressure quickly. If the engine is not started within two seconds, the PCM shuts the fuel
pump OFF and waits until the engine is cranked. When the engine is cranked and the RPM signal
has been detected by the PCM, the PCM supplies 12 volts to the fuel pump relay to energize the
electric in-tank fuel pump.
As a backup system to the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump can also be energized by the fuel pump
and engine oil pressure indicator switch. The normally open switch closes when oil pressure
reaches about 28 kPa (4 psi). If the fuel pump relay fails, the fuel pump and engine oil pressure
indicator switch will close and run the fuel pump.
An inoperative fuel pump relay can result in a no start condition. An inoperative fuel pump would
cause a no start condition. A fuel pump which does not provide enough pressure can result in poor
performance.
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Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 377
Fuel Pump Relay: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the underhood electrical center cover. 2. Remove the fuel pump relay (1).
Installation Procedure
1. Install the fuel pump relay (1). 2. Install the underhood electrical center cover.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Specifications
Ignition Control Module: Specifications
Ignition control module screws ............................................................................................................
...................................................... 4-5 Nm (40 lb in) Fasteners securing assembly to engine
.......................................................................................................................................................... 8
Nm (70 lb in)
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Top Rear Of Engine
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Modules - Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > C1
Ignition Control Module: C1
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Modules - Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 385
Ignition Control Module: C2
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Modules - Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 386
Ignition Control Module: C3
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Modules - Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 387
Ignition Control Module: Description and Operation
The ignition control module performs the following functions:
^ It determines the correct ignition coil firing sequence, based on 7x pulses. This coil sequences
occurs at start-up. After the engine is running, the module determines the sequence, and continues
triggering the ignition coils in proper sequence.
^ It sends the 3x crankcase reference (fuel control) signal to the PCM. The PCM determines engine
RPM from this signal, this signal is also used by the PCM to determine crankshaft speed for
Ignition Control (IC) spark advance calculations.
The 3X reference signal sent to the PCM by the ignition control module is an on off pulse occurring
3 times per crankshaft revolution.
Circuits Affecting Ignition Control To properly control ignition timing, the PCM relies on the following
information:
^ Engine load (manifold pressure or vacuum).
^ Atmospheric (barometric) pressure.
^ Engine temperature.
^ Intake air temperature.
^ Crankshaft position.
^ Engine speed (RPM).
The Ignition Control (IC) system consists of the following components:
^ Ignition coils.
^ Ignition control module.
^ 7x crankshaft position sensor.
^ 24X crankshaft position sensor.
^ Powertrain control module.
^ All connecting wires.
The electronic Ignition Control Module (ICM) connector terminals are identified as shown in the
Electronic Ignition System graphic. These circuits perform the following functions:
^ 3X reference high The 7x crankshaft position sensor sends a signal to the electronic ignition
control module which generates a reference pulse that is sent to the PCM. The PCM uses this
signal to calculate crankshaft position and engine speed (also used to trigger the fuel injectors).
^ 3X reference low - This wire is grounded through the ICM and assures the ground circuit has no
voltage drop between the ICM and the PCM
^ Ignition control bypass - During initial cranking, the PCM will look for synchronizing pulses from
the camshaft position sensor and the 7x crankshaft position sensor. The pulses indicate the
position of the #1 piston and the #1 intake valve. Five volts is applied to the bypass circuit at
precisely the same time these signals are received by the PCM. This generally occurs within one or
two revolutions of the crankshaft. An open or grounded bypass circuit will set a DTC P1350 and the
engine will run at base ignition timing. A small amount of spark advance is built into the ignition
control module to enhance performance.
^ Ignition Control (IC) - The PCM uses this circuit to trigger the electronic ignition control module.
The PCM uses the crankshaft reference signal to calculate the amount of spark advance needed.
^ 24X reference signal - The 24X crankshaft position sensor increases idle quality and low speed
driveability by providing better resolution at a
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calibrated RPM.
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Ignition Control Module: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Remove all the electrical connectors at the ignition control module. 2. Note position of spark plug
wires for installation 3. Remove the secondary ignition wires from ignition coils. 4. Remove the
screws securing coil assemblies to ignition control module. 5. Remove the fasteners securing
ignition control module assembly to engine. 6. Remove ignition control module.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the coils to ignition control module. 2. Install the screws.
Tighten ^
Tighten the screws to 4-5 Nm (40 lb in).
3. Install the fasteners securing assembly to engine.
Tighten ^
Tighten the fasteners to 8 Nm (70 lb in).
4. Install the spark plug wires as noted during removal. 5. Install the electrical connectors to the
ignition control module.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air Bag Control Module: > 07-09-41-006 >
Aug > 07 > Restraints - Class Action Settlement - Reprogram SDM
Air Bag Control Module: Customer Interest Restraints - Class Action Settlement - Reprogram SDM
Bulletin No.: 07-09-41-006
Date: August 08, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: SDM Reprogram - Class Action Settlement (U.S. Only)
Models: 1997-1999 Chevrolet Malibu 1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass
PURPOSE
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide GM Dealers with information about Class Action
Settlement CJ-2002-424 for certain 1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Malibu and certain 1997, 1998
and 1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass vehicles. As part of the settlement, GM has agreed to reprogram the
air bag sensing and diagnostic module (SDM) at no cost to the customer.
Reprogram the SDM in these vehicles if the customer presents a copy of the letter shown. Retain a
copy of the customer letter with the CSO. Claims for 1997 and 1998 vehicles need to be H-routed
through your ASM for payment approval before submitting a claim. Use the labor operation number
and time published in this bulletin to receive payment. The labor operation number in this bulletin is
for bulletin use only. It will not be published in the Labor Time Guide.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
The Tech 2 diagnostic tool must be updated with version 27.004 or later for reprogramming the air
bag sensing and diagnostic module (SDM).
Turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position and verify that the "AIR BAG" warning lamp flashes
seven (7) times and then turns "OFF".
If the AIR BAG warning lamp does not operate as described, perform the SIR diagnostic system
check as described in the appropriate service manual before proceeding.
Connect the Tech 2 to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC) under the instrument panel.
Turn the Tech 2 "ON" by pressing the power button.
Press "ENTER" to access the "MAIN MENU".
Use the "UP" and "DOWN" buttons (arrows) on the Tech 2 to move the highlight bar to the
selections described in the following steps.
Select "DIAGNOSTICS" on the "MAIN MENU" screen and press "ENTER".
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Aug > 07 > Restraints - Class Action Settlement - Reprogram SDM > Page 399
Select the appropriate model year (1997, 1998, or 1999) on the "VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION"
(model years) screen and then press "ENTER".
Select "PASSENGER CAR" on the "VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION" (vehicle types) screen and press
"ENTER".
Select "BODY" on the "SYSTEM SELECTION MENU" screen and then press "ENTER".
Select the letter "N" on the "VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION" (car product lines) screen and press
"ENTER".
Select the appropriate GM nameplate (Chevrolet or Oldsmobile) on the "VEHICLE
IDENTIFICATION" (nameplate) screen and press "ENTER".
^ For 1997-1998 Chevrolet select the appropriate vehicle series (Malibu or NE Malibu LS) on the
vehicle series screen and press "ENTER".
^ For 1999 Chevrolet select the appropriate vehicle series Malibu on the vehicle series screen and
press "ENTER".
^ For 1997-1999 Oldsmobile select the appropriate vehicle series (NB Cutlass or NG Cutlass GLS)
on the vehicle series screen and press "ENTER".
Select "SUPPLEMENTAL INFLATABLE RESTRAINT" on the "BODY" screen and press "ENTER".
Confirm that the ignition switch is still in the "ON" position (engine not running).
Select "SPECIAL FUNCTIONS" on the "SUPPLEMENTAL INFLATABLE RESTRAINT" screen and
press "ENTER".
Select "SDM REPROGRAMMING" on the "SPECIAL FUNCTIONS" screen and press "ENTER".
Follow the on screen instructions.
If the vehicle has previously had the SDM replaced with an updated version, the Tech-2 will
display: "procedure not required".
After reprogramming is complete, turn the ignition switch to "OFF" and disconnect the Tech 2 from
the vehicle's DLC.
Turn the ignition switch to "ON" and verify that the "AIR BAG" warning lamp flashes seven (7) times
and then turns "OFF". If it does not operate as described, perform the SIR diagnostic system check
as described in the appropriate service manual.
Warranty Information
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Bag Control Module: >
07-09-41-006 > Aug > 07 > Restraints - Class Action Settlement - Reprogram SDM
Air Bag Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Restraints - Class Action Settlement Reprogram SDM
Bulletin No.: 07-09-41-006
Date: August 08, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: SDM Reprogram - Class Action Settlement (U.S. Only)
Models: 1997-1999 Chevrolet Malibu 1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass
PURPOSE
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide GM Dealers with information about Class Action
Settlement CJ-2002-424 for certain 1997, 1998 and 1999 Chevrolet Malibu and certain 1997, 1998
and 1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass vehicles. As part of the settlement, GM has agreed to reprogram the
air bag sensing and diagnostic module (SDM) at no cost to the customer.
Reprogram the SDM in these vehicles if the customer presents a copy of the letter shown. Retain a
copy of the customer letter with the CSO. Claims for 1997 and 1998 vehicles need to be H-routed
through your ASM for payment approval before submitting a claim. Use the labor operation number
and time published in this bulletin to receive payment. The labor operation number in this bulletin is
for bulletin use only. It will not be published in the Labor Time Guide.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
The Tech 2 diagnostic tool must be updated with version 27.004 or later for reprogramming the air
bag sensing and diagnostic module (SDM).
Turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position and verify that the "AIR BAG" warning lamp flashes
seven (7) times and then turns "OFF".
If the AIR BAG warning lamp does not operate as described, perform the SIR diagnostic system
check as described in the appropriate service manual before proceeding.
Connect the Tech 2 to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC) under the instrument panel.
Turn the Tech 2 "ON" by pressing the power button.
Press "ENTER" to access the "MAIN MENU".
Use the "UP" and "DOWN" buttons (arrows) on the Tech 2 to move the highlight bar to the
selections described in the following steps.
Select "DIAGNOSTICS" on the "MAIN MENU" screen and press "ENTER".
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Bag Control Module: >
07-09-41-006 > Aug > 07 > Restraints - Class Action Settlement - Reprogram SDM > Page 405
Select the appropriate model year (1997, 1998, or 1999) on the "VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION"
(model years) screen and then press "ENTER".
Select "PASSENGER CAR" on the "VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION" (vehicle types) screen and press
"ENTER".
Select "BODY" on the "SYSTEM SELECTION MENU" screen and then press "ENTER".
Select the letter "N" on the "VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION" (car product lines) screen and press
"ENTER".
Select the appropriate GM nameplate (Chevrolet or Oldsmobile) on the "VEHICLE
IDENTIFICATION" (nameplate) screen and press "ENTER".
^ For 1997-1998 Chevrolet select the appropriate vehicle series (Malibu or NE Malibu LS) on the
vehicle series screen and press "ENTER".
^ For 1999 Chevrolet select the appropriate vehicle series Malibu on the vehicle series screen and
press "ENTER".
^ For 1997-1999 Oldsmobile select the appropriate vehicle series (NB Cutlass or NG Cutlass GLS)
on the vehicle series screen and press "ENTER".
Select "SUPPLEMENTAL INFLATABLE RESTRAINT" on the "BODY" screen and press "ENTER".
Confirm that the ignition switch is still in the "ON" position (engine not running).
Select "SPECIAL FUNCTIONS" on the "SUPPLEMENTAL INFLATABLE RESTRAINT" screen and
press "ENTER".
Select "SDM REPROGRAMMING" on the "SPECIAL FUNCTIONS" screen and press "ENTER".
Follow the on screen instructions.
If the vehicle has previously had the SDM replaced with an updated version, the Tech-2 will
display: "procedure not required".
After reprogramming is complete, turn the ignition switch to "OFF" and disconnect the Tech 2 from
the vehicle's DLC.
Turn the ignition switch to "ON" and verify that the "AIR BAG" warning lamp flashes seven (7) times
and then turns "OFF". If it does not operate as described, perform the SIR diagnostic system check
as described in the appropriate service manual.
Warranty Information
Disclaimer
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 406
Air Bag Control Module: Specifications
Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module Fasteners 10.0 N.m (89 lb in.)
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Component Information > Locations > System Component Locations
Description
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Component Information > Locations > System Component Locations > Page 409
Under RF Seat
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Component Information > Locations > Page 410
Sensing Diagnostic Module (SDM)
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Component Information > Locations > Page 411
Air Bag Control Module: Description and Operation
Description
Description
CAUTION: Be careful when you handle a Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM). Do not strike or
Jolt the SDM. Before applying power to the SDM:
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Component Information > Locations > Page 412
^Remove any dirt grease, etc. from the mounting surface.
^ Position the SDM horizontally on the mounting surface.
^ Point the arrow on the SDM toward the front of the vehicle.
^ Tighten all of the SDM fasteners and SDM bracket fasteners to the specified torque value.
Failure to follow the correct procedure could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or
unnecessary SIR system repairs.
The inflatable restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM) performs the following factions in the
SIR system.
^ Energy Reserve-The SDM maintains 23 Volt Loop Reserve (23 VLR) energy supplies to provide
deployment energy. Ignition voltage can provide deployment energy if the 23 Volt Loop Reserves
malfunction.
^ Frontal Crash Detection-The SDM monitors vehicle velocity changes to detect frontal crashes
that are severe enough to warrant deployment.
^ Air Bag Deployment-During a frontal crash of sufficient force, the SDM will cause enough current
to flow through the inflatable modules to deploy the air bags.
^ Frontal Crash Recording-The SDM records information regarding the SIR system status during a
frontal crash.
^ Malfunction Detection-The SDM performs diagnostic monitoring of the SIR system electrical
components. Upon detection of a circuit malfunction, the SDM will set a diagnostic trouble code.
^ Malfunction Diagnosis-The SDM displays SIR diagnostic trouble codes and system status
information through the use of a scan tool.
^ Driver Notification-The SDM warns the vehicle driver of SIR system malfunctions by controlling
the AIR BAG warning lamp.
The SDM connects to the SIR wiring harness using a 12-way connector. The SDM harness
connector uses a shorting bar across certain terminals in the contact area. Removal of the SDM
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) or the harness connector itself will connect the AIR BAG
warning lamp to ground through the shorting bar.
The AIR BAG warning lamp will come ON steady with power applied to the SDM when either one
of the following two conditions exist:
^ You remove the SDM CPA.
^ You disconnect the SDM harness connector.
The SDM receives power whenever the ignition switch is at the RUN or START positions.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Important Preliminary Precautions
Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair Important Preliminary Precautions
Description
CAUTION: Be careful when you handle a Sensing and Diagnostic Module SDM). Do not strike or
jolt the SDM Before applying power to the SDM:
^ Remove any dirt, grease, etc. from the mounting surface.
^ Position the SDM horizontally on the mounting surface.
^ Point the arrow on the SDM toward the front of the vehicle.
^ Tighten all of the SDM fasteners and SDM bracket fasteners to the specified torque value.
Failure to follow the correct procedure could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or
unnecessary SIR system repairs.
CAUTION: If any water enters the vehicle's interior up to the level of the carpet or higher and soaks
the carpet, the Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM) and the SDM harness connector may need
to be replaced. The SDM could be activated when powered, which could cause deployment of the
air bag(s) and result in personal injury. Before attempting these procedures, the SIR system must
be disabled.
Refer to Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming for instructions on how to disable the SIR system. See:
Body and Frame/Interior Moulding / Trim/Dash Board / Instrument Panel/Air Bag(s) Arming and
Disarming/Service and Repair
With the ignition OFF, inspect the SDM mounting area, including the carpet. If any significant
soaking or evidence of significant soaking is detected, you MUST:
^ Remove all water.
^ Repair the water damage.
^ Replace the SDM harness connector.
^ Replace the SDM.
Failure to follow these procedures could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or
otherwise unneeded SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Important Preliminary Precautions > Page 415
Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair Install or Connect
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Inflatable restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM) to the vehicle, make sure the arrow is
pointing toward the front of the vehicle. 2. SDM fasteners.
TIGHTEN
^ Fasteners to 10.0 N.m (89 lb in.).
3. Electrical connector and the CPA. 4. Carpet and the passenger front carpet retainer. Refer to
floor carpet in Seats and Carpet. 5. Passenger front seat. Refer to front seat in Seats and Carpet.
^ Enable the SIR system. Refer to Enabling the SIR System. See: Body and Frame/Interior
Moulding / Trim/Dash Board / Instrument Panel/Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming/Service and
Repair
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Important Preliminary Precautions > Page 416
Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair Remove or Disconnect
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
^ Disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. See: Body and Frame/Interior
Moulding / Trim/Dash Board / Instrument Panel/Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming/Service and
Repair
1. Passenger front seat. Refer to front seat in Seats and Carpet. 2. Passenger front carpet retainer,
then roll back the carpet. Refer to floor carpet in Seats and Carpet. 3. Connector Position
Assurance (CPA) and the electrical connector. 4. Fasteners from the inflatable restraint Sensing
and Diagnostic Module (SDM). 5. SDM from the vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Important Preliminary Precautions > Page 417
Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair Repair of Mounting Studs and/or Bracket
First Repair
IMPORTANT
^ The following procedures should be utilized in the event that Sensing and Diagnostic Module
(SDM) mounting holes or fasteners are damaged to the extent that the SDM can no longer he
properly mounted.
FIRST REPAIR
1. Remove stripped fastener and discard. 2. Attach SDM with new fastener GM P/N 10267482.
TIGHTEN
^ Fastener to 5.0 N.m (44 lb. in.).
Second Repair
IMPORTANT
^ The following procedures should be utilized in the event that Sensing and Diagnostic Module
(SDM) mounting holes or fasteners are damaged to the extent that the SDM can no longer he
properly mounted.
SECOND REPAIR
1. Remove stripped fastener and discard. 2. Enlarge hole in floor pan to 10 mm. 3. Install riv-nut
GM P/N 10237960, air tool is recommended. 4. Attach SDM with new fastener GM P/N 3538573.
TIGHTEN
^ Fastener to 5.0 N.m (44 lb. in.).
Use hand tools only to achieve fastener torque. This will prevent stripping of the replacement
fastener.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Windows and Glass > Rear Defogger Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Rear Defogger Relay: Locations
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Left Side Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional Equipment >
Lock Cylinder Switch > Component Information > Locations
LH Side Of I/P, Steering Column
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Left Front Door Lock Switch
LF Door
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Left Front Door Lock Switch > Page 432
RF Door
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Left Front Door Lock Switch
LF Door Lock Switch
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Left Front Door Lock Switch > Page 435
RF Door Lock Switch
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Mirror Switch >
Component Information > Locations
LF Door
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Mirror Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 439
Power Mirror Switch
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Seat Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams
Power Seat Switch
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Sunroof / Moonroof
Switch > Component Information > Locations
Headliner
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Trunk / Liftgate Switch
> Component Information > Locations
Below LH Side Of I/P, Near Steering Column
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Trunk / Liftgate Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Page 449
Rear Compartment Lid Release Switch
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Trunk / Liftgate Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Page 450
Trunk / Liftgate Switch: Service and Repair
Description
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Disable SIR system. 3. Snap deck lid switch from instrument panel
with a blunt tool. 4. Electrical connector.
Install or Connect
1. Electrical connectors 2. Switch into instrument panel. 3. Enable SIR system. 4. Negative battery
cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Fluid
Level Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations
Rear Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Fluid
Level Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 455
Brake Fluid Level Switch
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Fluid
Level Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 456
Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Description and Operation
The master cylinder is equipped with a fluid level switch located in the side of the master cylinder
reservoir. This switch will activate the red "BRAKE" light if a low fluid condition is detected. Once
the fluid level is corrected the "BRAKE" light will go out.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Fluid
Level Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 457
Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Electrical connector from fluid level switch.
2. Fluid level switch using needle nose pliers to compress switch locking tabs at inboard side of
master cylinder reservoir.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Fluid level switch into master cylinder reservoir until locking tabs snap in place. 2. Electrical
connector to fluid level switch.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Braking
Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Twist-Lock Style Brake Switches - Proper
Adjustment
Braking Sensor/Switch: Technical Service Bulletins Twist-Lock Style Brake Switches - Proper
Adjustment
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-83-12
Date: April, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: Proper Adjustment of New Twist-Lock Style Brake Switches
Models: 1996-98 Buick LeSabre, Park Avenue, Riviera 1996-98 Cadillac DeVille, Eldorado, Seville
1997-98 Chevrolet Malibu 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier 1996 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1996-98
Oldsmobile Aurora, Eighty Eight, LSS, Regency 1997-98 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999 Oldsmobile
Alero 1996-98 Pontiac Bonneville 1998 Pontiac Sunfire 1999 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin is being issued to advise that new style brake switches were used beginning in the
1996 model year. The two switches control the brake lights, cruise control engage/release, TCC
lock-up/release and the Brake/Transmission Inter-Lock function. The switches are adjusted by
twisting rather than ratcheting. Using the old adjustment method of pulling up on the brake pedal
can break the switch.
A mis-adjusted or damaged switch may cause customer comments such as:
^ Brake lights stay on, draining the battery
^ Cruise control inoperative
^ Higher than normal fuel consumption if TCC cannot engage
^ Brake drag
^ Cruise control takes excess pedal travel to release
The adjustment procedure in the Service Manual should be followed.
Procedure
1. Insert the stop lamp switch into the retainer until the switch bottoms out against the brake pedal,
and the switch actuator is fully depressed.
2. Turn the brake switch in the retainer clockwise until the travel stop has been reached. At this
point it will be locked.
Important:
If the switch is not fully locked into position, a clicking noise may result.
3. The brake switch plunger should extend outward 0.5 mm to 1.5 mm (0.02 in. to 0.06 in.) if
adjusted correctly.
4. If the distance the plunger extends is too great, the brake switch must be turned
counter-clockwise about 45° and set to the correct distance before locking it in place by turning it
clockwise until the travel stop is reached.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Revised Speed Sensor Resistance
Specification
Wheel Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Revised Speed Sensor Resistance
Specification
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-22
Date: June, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 5E - Revised Wheel Speed Sensor Resistance Specifications
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
This bulletin is being issued to revise the wheel speed sensor resistance specifications (DTC's
C1221 - C1235) on pages 5E1-54 through 5E1-101 of the Service Manual.
Front and rear wheel speed sensor resistance range has been changed to 950 - 1250 ohms.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations > LF
LF Wheel (RF Similar)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations > LF > Page 468
RR Wheel (LR Similar)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > LF
LF Wheel Speed Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > LF > Page 471
LR Wheel Speed Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > LF > Page 472
RF Wheel Speed Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > LF > Page 473
RR Wheel Speed Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Front Wheel Speed Sensors
Wheel Speed Sensor: Description and Operation Front Wheel Speed Sensors
The front wheel speed sensor and toothed ring are contained with the integral front wheel bearing.
This allows for improved environmental protection and easier assembly. The sensor and toothed
ring are not repairable and no provision for air gap adjustment exists. If a front wheel speed sensor
fails, the entire integral bearing and speed sensor assembly must be replaced.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Front Wheel Speed Sensors > Page 476
Wheel Speed Sensor: Description and Operation Rear Wheel Speed Sensors
The rear wheel speed sensors operate in the same manner as the front wheel speed sensors. The
wheel speed sensor and toothed ring are contained within the dust cap of the integral rear wheel
bearing. This allows for improved environmental protection and easier assembly. The sensor and
toothed ring are not repairable and no provision for air gap adjustment exists. If a rear wheel speed
sensor fails, the entire integral bearing and speed sensor assembly must be replaced.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Front Wheel Speed Sensors > Page 477
Wheel Speed Sensor: Description and Operation Front Wheel Speed Sensor Wiring
NOTE: The front wheel speed sensor wiring is not repairable in the control arm section of the wiring
harness. This section of the wiring harness must be replaced with the appropriate wiring harness
service kit "Pigtail." do not attempt to solder, splice, or crimp this section of the wiring harnesses as
eventual failure will likely result.
The front wheel speed sensor wiring is constructed of highly flexible twisted pair wiring. This wiring
exists because the-front wheel speed sensor wiring circuits must connect to the suspension of the
vehicle, thus the wiring in this area is subjected to the same motion as a spring or shock absorber.
Consequently, any repair to the front wheel speed sensor wiring circuits in the control arm section
of the wiring harness will result in stiffening and eventual failure due to wire fatigue.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 478
Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair
Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 479
Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor
Tool Required:
- J 38764
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
Important: The front sensor is serviceable only as an a assembly. Do not attempt to service the
sensor harness pigtail as it is part of the sensor.
1. Raise and support vehicle on suitable hoist. 2. Tire and wheel assembly. 3. Front wheel speed
sensor electrical connector. 4. Hub and bearing assembly. 5. Wheel speed sensor from hub and
bearing assembly using a blunt screwdriver.
Important: When the wheel speed sensor is removed it must be replaced. The speed sensor is damaged
when it is removed and cannot be reused. There are two parts to the wheel speed sensor. These
parts are replaced as an assembly. They cannot be replaced individually.
- Inspect bearing for signs of water intrusion, if water intrusion is noted, the bearing must be
replaced.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Apply LOCTITE (TM) 620 to mating surfaces of the wheel speed sensor that contacts the hub
and bearing assembly. 2. Using J 38764 with an arbor type press, press wheel speed sensor onto
hub and bearing assembly. 3. Hub and bearing assembly to vehicle. 4. Front wheel speed sensor
electrical connector. 5. Wheel and tire assembly. 6. Lower vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Coolant Level Sensor >
Component Information > Locations
RH Side Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Coolant Level Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Coolant Level Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Coolant Level Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 486
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Coolant Level Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 487
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Coolant Level Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 488
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Coolant Level Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 489
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Coolant Level Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 490
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Coolant Level Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 491
Coolant Level Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Coolant Level Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 492
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 507
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 511
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 512
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 516
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 517
Engine Coolant Level Switch
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 518
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information >
Specifications > Electrical Specifications
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Electrical Specifications
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
100°C (212°F) .....................................................................................................................................
......................................................... 177 Ohms 90°C (194°F) ............................................................
................................................................................................................................... 241 Ohms 80°C
(176°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 332 Ohms 70°C (158°F) ......................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 467 Ohms 60°C
(140°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 667 Ohms 50°C (122°F) ......................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 973 Ohms 40°C
(104°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 1,459 Ohms 30°C (86°F) ........................................................................
...................................................................................................................... 2,238 Ohms 20°C
(68°F) ..................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 3,520 Ohms 10°C (50°F) ........................................................................
...................................................................................................................... 5,670 Ohms 0°C (32°F)
..............................................................................................................................................................
................................. 9,420 Ohms -10°C (14°F) ..................................................................................
.......................................................................................................... 16,180 Ohms -20°C (-4°F) .......
..............................................................................................................................................................
........................ 28,680 Ohms -30°C (-22°F) .......................................................................................
.................................................................................................... 52,700 Ohms -40°C (-40°F) ...........
..............................................................................................................................................................
................ 100,700 Ohms
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Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information >
Specifications > Electrical Specifications > Page 524
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Mechanical Specifications
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
............................................................................................................................................... 23 Nm
(17 lb. ft.)
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Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 525
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
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Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 526
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is a thermistor (a resistor which changes value
based on temperature) mounted in the engine coolant stream. Low coolant temperature produces a
high resistance (100,000 ohms at -40°C/-40°F) while high temperature causes low resistance (70
ohms at 130°C/266°F).
OPERATION
The PCM supplies a 5 volt signal to the engine coolant temperature sensor through a resistor in the
PCM and measures the voltage. The voltage will be high when the engine is cold, and low when
the engine is hot. By measuring the voltage, the PCM calculates the engine coolant temperature.
Engine coolant temperature affects most systems the PCM controls.
The scan tool displays engine coolant temperature in degrees. After engine start-up, the
temperature should rise steadily to about 90°C (194°F) then stabilize when thermostat opens. If the
engine has not been run for several hours (overnight) the engine coolant temperature and intake
air temperature displays should be close to each other. A hard fault in the engine coolant sensor
circuit should set DTC P0117 or DTC P0118; an intermittent fault should set a DTC P1114 or
P1115. The DTC Diagnostic Aids also contains a chart to check for sensor resistance values
relative to temperature.
The ECT sensor also contains another circuit which is used to operate the engine coolant
temperature gauge located in the instrument panel.
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Specifications > Page 527
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Relieve coolant pressure. 2. Air intake duct. 3. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 4. Remove
the electrical connector. 5. Using a deep well socket and extension, remove the sensor.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Coat engine coolant temperature sensor threads with sealer P/N 9985253 or equivalent. 2.
Install the sensor in the engine.
Tighten Sensor to 23 Nm (17 lb. ft.).
3. Install the electrical connector. 4. Air intake duct. 5. Connect the negative battery cable. 6. Start
the engine. 7. Check for leaks. 8. Check the coolant level, replenish as needed.
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Temperature Sensor/Switch > Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch > Component Information > Diagrams
Engine Coolant Level Switch
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Brake Switch (Cruise
Control) > Component Information > Locations
Below LH Side Of I/P, Near Steering Column
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Control) > Component Information > Locations > Page 535
Cruise Control Brake Switch
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Control) > Component Information > Service and Repair > Cruise Control Brake Switch Adjustment
Brake Switch (Cruise Control): Service and Repair Cruise Control Brake Switch Adjustment
Remove Or Disconnect 1. Left side A-pillar defogger duct from underneath I/P.
Adjust 1. Twist switch counterclockwise to release from retainer. 2. With switch connector oriented
toward the one o'clock position, slide the switch into retainer until the switch plunger is fully
depressed into the
switch barrel.
3. Twist switch clockwise until travel stop has been reached.
Note: The switch connector will face the three o'clock position when locked.
Install Or Connect 1. Left side A-pillar defogger duct from underneath I/P.
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Brake Switch (Cruise Control): Service and Repair Cruise Control Brake Switch Replacement
Cruise Control Brake Switch
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Left side A-pillar defogger duct from underneath I/P. 2. Wiring harness connector. 3. Twist switch
counterclockwise to release from retainer, pull rearward to remove.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Switch into retainer. 2. With switch connector oriented toward the one o'clock position, slide the
switch into retainer until the switch plunger is fully depressed into the
switch barrel.
3. Twist switch clockwise until travel stop has been reached.
Note: The switch connector will face the three o'clock position when locked.
4. Wiring harness connector. 5. Left side A-pillar defogger duct from underneath I/P.
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Component Information > Locations
LH Side Of I/P, Steering Column
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Component Information > Locations > Page 542
SIR Coil Assembly C1: Cruise Control Switch
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Level Sensor > Component
Information > Specifications
Oil Level Sensor: Specifications
TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS
Sensor Screw ......................................................................................................................................
............................................ 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
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Information > Specifications > Page 547
Rear Of Engine
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Information > Specifications > Page 548
Engine Oil Level Switch
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Level Sensor For ECM >
Component Information > Specifications
Oil Level Sensor For ECM: Specifications
Engine Oil Level Switch .......................................................................................................................
............................................. 17-27 Nm (13-20 lb ft)
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Component Information > Specifications > Page 552
Oil Level Sensor For ECM: Description and Operation
Engine Oil Level Sensor
The PCM monitors the Engine Oil Level Sensor signal at start-up to determine if engine oil level is
OK. If the PCM determines that a low oil level condition exists, the PCM will illuminate the Low Oil
Level indicator lamp.
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Oil Level Sensor For ECM: Service and Repair
Engine Oil Level Sensor
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. 2. Drain the engine oil. 3. Disconnect the electrical connector from Engine Oil
Level Switch 4. Remove the Engine Oil Level Switch from the oil pan.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the Engine Oil Level Switch.
Tighten Switch to 17-27 Nm (13-20 lb. ft.).
2. Lower the vehicle. 3. Add the engine oil to the correct level.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Locations
Front Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Page 557
Engine Oil Pressure Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel
Pump) > Component Information > Description and Operation
Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The fuel pump and engine oil pressure indicator switch has two functions, to indicate low engine oil
pressure and to supply battery voltage to the fuel pump in the event the fuel pump relay fails.
OPERATION
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) checks the engine oil pressure continuously. If the oil
pressure switch indicates low oil pressure at any time, the PCM will send information through serial
data to the instrument cluster to turn "ON" the "Low Oil Pressure" telltale.
The oil pressure portion of the switch has normally closed contacts that open on an increasing oil
pressure of 41 kPa (6 psi) or less, and close on a decreasing pressure of 14 (2 psi). When the
switch is closed, the oil pressure signal is sent to the PCM, which in turn sends the information to
the instrument cluster through serial data. The oil pressure lamp on the instrument cluster is then
illuminated.
The fuel pump portion of the switch has a normally open contact that closes when increasing oil
pressure of 41 kPa (6 psi) or less, and opens when decreasing pressure of 14 (2 psi). In the event
the fuel pump relay fails, battery voltage is supplied to the fuel pump through the closed contacts
from the switch.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel
Pump) > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 561
Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Service and Repair
Engine Oil Pressure Switch
Removal Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise the vehicle. 3. Disconnect the electrical
connector from the engine oil pressure sensor. 4. Remove the engine oil pressure sensor.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the engine oil pressure sensor. 2. Tighten the oil pressure sensor to 16 Nm. 3. Connect
the electrical connector to the engine oil pressure sensor. 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Reconnect the
negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Blower Motor Switch >
Component Information > Specifications
Blower Motor Switch: Specifications
Control Assembly and Retainer Screws to
.................................................................................................................................................. 2 N.m
(18 lb in)
Negative Battery Cable Bolt to ............................................................................................................
...................................................... 16 N.m (12 lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Blower Motor Switch >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 566
Blower Motor Switch: Service and Repair
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Accessory trim plate. 3. Control assembly screws and pull control
assembly away from the instrument panel. 4. Electrical connection. 5. Blower switch retaining
screws and blower switch
Install or Connect
1. Blower switch and retaining screws.
Tighten
^ Screws, fully driven, seated and not stripped.
2. Electrical connection. 3. Control assembly and retaining screws.
Tighten
^ Screws to 2 N.m (18 lb in).
4. Accessory trim plate. 5. Negative battery cable.
Tighten
^ Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor /
Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Specifications > A/C Pressure Transducer
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Specifications A/C Pressure Transducer
A/C Pressure Transducer ....................................................................................................................
......................................................... 5 N.m (44 lb in)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor /
Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Specifications > A/C Pressure Transducer > Page 571
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Specifications Pressure Sensor
Pressure Sensor ..................................................................................................................................
......................................................... 5 N.m (44 lb in)
Pressure Senso Bolt ............................................................................................................................
....................................................... 16 N.m (12 lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor /
Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Specifications > Page 572
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Locations
A/C System Plumbing
Front Of Engine Compartment
The A/C system has a pressure sensor mounted on the compressor/condenser hose assembly
near the condenser connection. The sensor performs both low and high pressure cutout functions
through an input to the PCM. No compressor mounted switches are used. The sensor is mounted
on a service
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor /
Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Specifications > Page 573
fitting and can be replaced without discharging the A/C system.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor /
Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Specifications > Page 574
A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor /
Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Specifications > Page 575
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection
A scan tool displays A/C refrigerant pressure in psi. The sensors range and corresponding display
should be in the range 0 to 450 psi. A sensor or circuit problem should set DTC P0530. A poor
ground at the sensor will result in a fixed high pressure value on the scan tool display.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor /
Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Service and Repair > Pressure Sensor
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Service and Repair Pressure Sensor
A/C System Plumbing
The A/C system has a pressure sensor mounted on the compressor/condenser hose assembly
near the condenser connection. The sensor performs both low and high pressure cutout functions
through an input to the PCM. No compressor mounted switches are used. The sensor is mounted
on a service fitting and can be replaced without discharging the A/C system.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Electrical connection at the sensor 3. Pressure sensor and discard the
O-ring seal.
^ The sensor is mounted on a service fitting; do not discharge the system.
Install or Connect
1. New O-ring seal lubricated in clean 525 viscosity refrigerant oil. 2. Pressure sensor.
Tighten
^ Sensor to 5 N.m (44 lb in).
3. Electrical connection at the sensor. 4. Negative battery cable.
Tighten
^ Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor /
Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Service and Repair > Pressure Sensor > Page 578
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Service and Repair Schrader Valve
A/C System Plumbing
The Schrader valve is located under the A/C pressure sensor on the compressor discharge tube.
Tools Required: ^
J 39500 R-134a Refrigerant Recovery, Recycling, and Recharging (ACR4) System
^ J 24182-2A Valve Core Remover/Installer
Remove or Disconnect
1. Recover refrigerant. Refer to Recovery. 2. Harness from pressure sensor. 3. Pressure sensor
from fitting. 4. Schrader valve from fitting.
Install or Connect
1. New valve to fitting. 2. Pressure sensor to fitting.
Tighten
^ Sensor to 5 N.m (44 lb in).
3. Harness to pressure sensor. 4. Recharge A/C system. Refer to Evacuation.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Dimmer Switch >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > IP Dimmer Control - Proper Setting
Dimmer Switch: Technical Service Bulletins IP Dimmer Control - Proper Setting
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-42-009
Date: November, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Proper Setting of I/P Dimmer Control to View PRNDL Display with Automatic Headlamp
Control
Models: 2000 and Prior All Passenger Cars and Trucks With Automatic Headlamp Control and
Electronic PRNDL Display
Under certain conditions, if the instrument panel dimmer control is turned relatively low, the PRNDL
will not be visible until the automatic headlamp control turns the headlamps off and the daytime
running lamps (DRL) are turned back on. Such a condition may be if the vehicle is first started in an
environment where the headlamp control turns on the headlamps and then the vehicle is driven out
into a brighter environment (for example, when a vehicle is backed out of a dark garage into the
bright sunlight).
This condition is normal and any repair attempt will not be successful. Demonstrate this condition
to the customer using the service lane and then turn the instrument panel dimmer control to a
higher setting. This will enable the driver to see the PRNDL display
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Dimmer Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Lamp Dimmer Module
Rear Of Engine Compartment, Front Of Dash
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Dimmer Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Lamp Dimmer Module > Page 586
LH I/P Bussed Electrical Center
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Dimmer Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 587
Dimmer Switch: Diagrams
Lamp Dimmer Module
Panel Dimmer Switch
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Dimmer Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 588
Dimmer Switch: Service and Repair
Description
Remove or Disconnect
1. Disable SIR system. 2. Left sound insulator. 3. Electrical connector. 4. Screws to dimmer
module.
Install or Connect
1. Screws to dimmer module. 2. Electrical connector. 3. Left sound insulator. 4. Enable SIR system.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure
Fuel Gauge Sender: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-83-07
Date: March, 1998
Subject: Fuel Level Sensor Replacement Procedure
Models: 1997-98 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Listed in Application Chart)
INFORMATION
This bulletin is being issued to clarify that, when fuel gauge diagnosis per the Service Manual
indicates the cause to be the fuel level sensor, complete fuel sender assembly replacement is NOT
required.
Available fuel level sensor service packages are indicated in the application charts and should be
installed following applicable Service Manual procedures and those provided in the service
packages.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 593
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 594
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 595
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 596
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 597
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 598
Parts Information
See the charts for listed for applicable part numbers. Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the tables.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 599
Fuel Gauge Sender: Description and Operation
The Body Function Controller (BFC) calculates fuel level and sends a serial data message to the
Instrument Cluster indicating fuel level. The fuel level is calculated as a ratiometric reading
between the Fuel Level Sensor and an Ignition 0 reference voltage.
By using this method, changes in system voltage will have no effect on fuel level. The Body
Function Controller (BFC) sends changes in fuel level information to the Instrument Cluster over
the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial data bus.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Ambient Light
Sensor > Component Information > Locations
Top Of Dash Trim Pad
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Ambient Light
Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 604
Ambient Light Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Brake Light Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Below LH Side Of I/P, Near Steering Column
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Brake Light Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 608
Brake Light Switch: Diagrams
Brake Switch: C1
Brake Switch: C2
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Brake Light Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 609
Brake Light Switch: Service and Repair
Stop Indicator Switch
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Passenger side sound insulator. 2. Electrical connection from brake switch. 3. Brake switch from
retainer by turning counter clockwise 45°, then pulling toward rear of vehicle.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Insert stop indicator switch into retainer until switch bottoms out against brake pedal and switch
actuator is fully depressed. 2. Snap brake switch into retainer by turning clockwise 45° until a click
is heard. 3. Electrical connection to brake switch. 4. Passenger side sound insulator.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Combination Switch
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Combination Switch: > 73-81-52 > Nov > 97
> Lights - Park Lamps Stay ON With Headlamp Switch OFF
Combination Switch: Customer Interest Lights - Park Lamps Stay ON With Headlamp Switch OFF
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 73-81-52
Date: November, 1997
Subject: Park Lamps Stay On with Headlamp Switch in "OFF" Position (Replace Multifunction
Switch)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
Condition Some owners may comment on one of the following:
1. The radio or cluster illumination dims with actuation of the turn signal lever.
2. The park lamps will not turn off.
3. The park lamps come on by themselves.
4. The battery goes dead.
Cause The park lamp contact may not cross the switch gap, resulting in park lamps remaining on.
Correction To verity this condition, the concern can usually be duplicated by turning the headlamp
switch off very slowly with light pressure. Then, actuate the turn signal for a right turn and the park
lamps may come on.
If the concern can not be duplicated in this manner, a visual check can be done to see if the
contact crosses the gap or stops on or near the gap. Looking at the back of the switch body, follow
the park lamp circuit terminals 31 and 32 down to the switch grid. The park lamp contact can be
seen through the gap between these two sections of the switch grid. If the contact dimple does not
cross the gap but rests in the gap when the switch is turned to the "OFF" position, the described
condition exists. If the condition exists, replace the multifunction switch, P/N 22602262. Refer to
"Multifunction Switch" in the Service Manual.
Parts Information The supplier implemented an improved sorting process in April, 1997 while tool
modifications were being made. The date code is located on the top surface of the switch body lust
above the headlamp connector. The supplier Z code (Z0191) is stamped on the part just above the
date code. The date code begins with a "6" or "7" for the year followed by the Julian date which is
followed by two additional digits indicating tester information. Date codes prior to 7093XX are
suspect.
P/N Description
22602262 Multifunction Switch
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
N2355
Use published labor operation time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Combination Switch
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Combination Switch: > 73-81-52
> Nov > 97 > Lights - Park Lamps Stay ON With Headlamp Switch OFF
Combination Switch: All Technical Service Bulletins Lights - Park Lamps Stay ON With Headlamp
Switch OFF
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 73-81-52
Date: November, 1997
Subject: Park Lamps Stay On with Headlamp Switch in "OFF" Position (Replace Multifunction
Switch)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
Condition Some owners may comment on one of the following:
1. The radio or cluster illumination dims with actuation of the turn signal lever.
2. The park lamps will not turn off.
3. The park lamps come on by themselves.
4. The battery goes dead.
Cause The park lamp contact may not cross the switch gap, resulting in park lamps remaining on.
Correction To verity this condition, the concern can usually be duplicated by turning the headlamp
switch off very slowly with light pressure. Then, actuate the turn signal for a right turn and the park
lamps may come on.
If the concern can not be duplicated in this manner, a visual check can be done to see if the
contact crosses the gap or stops on or near the gap. Looking at the back of the switch body, follow
the park lamp circuit terminals 31 and 32 down to the switch grid. The park lamp contact can be
seen through the gap between these two sections of the switch grid. If the contact dimple does not
cross the gap but rests in the gap when the switch is turned to the "OFF" position, the described
condition exists. If the condition exists, replace the multifunction switch, P/N 22602262. Refer to
"Multifunction Switch" in the Service Manual.
Parts Information The supplier implemented an improved sorting process in April, 1997 while tool
modifications were being made. The date code is located on the top surface of the switch body lust
above the headlamp connector. The supplier Z code (Z0191) is stamped on the part just above the
date code. The date code begins with a "6" or "7" for the year followed by the Julian date which is
followed by two additional digits indicating tester information. Date codes prior to 7093XX are
suspect.
P/N Description
22602262 Multifunction Switch
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
N2355
Use published labor operation time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Fog/Driving Lamp
Switch > Component Information > Locations
LH I/P Bussed Electrical Center
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Fog/Driving Lamp
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 626
Fog Lamp Switch
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Fog/Driving Lamp
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 627
Fog/Driving Lamp Switch: Description and Operation
The fog lamp switch is located in the dimmer switch assembly. To turn on the fog lamps the ignition
switch must he in the RUN position and the fog lamp switch must be in the ON position, and the
high beams off. When the fog lamps are turned on (head and park lamps off) the front and rear
marker lamps, park lamps, taillamps, license lamp and instrument panel lamps must also be on.
When the high beam head lamps are selected, the fog lamps are turned off.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Glove Box Lamp
Switch > Component Information > Locations
Top RH Side Of I/P
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Glove Box Lamp
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 631
Glove Box Lamp/Switch
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Hazard Warning
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams
Hazard Switch
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Hazard Warning
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 635
Hazard Warning Switch: Service and Repair
Description
Description
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Disable SIR system. 3. Cluster trim. 4. Unsnap hazard warning switch
assembly from cluster trim with a blunt tool. 5. Electrical connector.
Install or Connect
1. Electrical connectors 2. Switch into cluster trim plate. 3. Cluster trim. 4. Enable SIR system. 5.
Negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams
Headlamp Switch: Diagrams
Turn/Headlamp Switch Assembly: C1
Turn/Headlamp Switch Assembly: C2
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Turn Signal Switch >
Component Information > Locations
LH Side Of I/P, Steering Column
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Turn Signal Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 642
Turn Signal Switch: Diagrams
Turn/Headlamp Switch Assembly: C1
Turn/Headlamp Switch Assembly: C2
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component
Information > Locations
Top Left Side Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 650
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 666
Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor measures the amount of air which passes through the throttle
body. The PCM uses this information to determine the operating condition of the engine, to control
fuel delivery. A large quantity of air indicates acceleration, while a small quantity indicates
deceleration or idle.
The scan tool reads the MAF value and displays it in grams per second (gm/s). At idle, it should
read between 4 gm/s-7 gm/s on a fully warmed up engine. Values should change rather quickly on
acceleration, but values should remain fairly stable at any given RPM. A failure in the MAF sensor
or circuit should set DTC P0101, DTC P0102, or DTC P0103.
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove the MAF sensor electrical connector. 2. Remove the air inlet duct from the MAF sensor.
3. Remove the MAF sensor from the air filter housing.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Carefully install the MAF sensor to the air inlet grommet. 2. Install the MAF sensor to the air inlet
duct. 3. Reconnect the electrical connector.
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Camshaft Position Sensor Bolt ............................................................................................................
........................................................... 10 Nm (8 lb ft)
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688
Top Rear Of Engine
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Camshaft Position Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) sends a cam signal to the PCM which uses it as a sync
pulse to trigger the injectors in proper sequence. The CAM signal is passed through the ignition
control module. It is filtered and buffered by the ignition control module, but the signal is not
processed in any other way. The PCM uses the CAM signal to indicate the position of the #1 piston
during its power stroke. This allows the PCM to calculate true Sequential Fuel Injection (SFI) mode
of operation. If the PCM detects an incorrect CAM signal while the engine is running, DTC P0341
will set.
If the CAM signal is lost while the engine is running, the fuel injection system will shift to a
calculated sequential fuel injection mode based on the last fuel injection pulse, and the engine will
continue to run. The engine can be restarted and will run in the calculated sequential mode as long
as the fault is present with a 1 in 6 chance of injector sequence being correct. Refer to DTC P0341/
Diagnostic Trouble Code Tables for further information. See: Powertrain Management/Computers
and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
Camshaft Position Sensor
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the serpentine drive belt. 3. Refer to Steering
and Suspension for removal of power steering pump assembly. 4. Remove the electrical connector.
5. Remove the bolt. 6. Remove the sensor.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the Camshaft Position Sensor.
Tighten Retaining bolt to 10 Nm (8 lb. ft.).
2. Install the electrical Connector 3. Install the power steering pump. 4. Install the serpentine drive
belt.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Specifications > Electrical Specifications
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Electrical Specifications
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
100°C (212°F) .....................................................................................................................................
......................................................... 177 Ohms 90°C (194°F) ............................................................
................................................................................................................................... 241 Ohms 80°C
(176°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 332 Ohms 70°C (158°F) ......................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 467 Ohms 60°C
(140°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 667 Ohms 50°C (122°F) ......................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 973 Ohms 40°C
(104°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 1,459 Ohms 30°C (86°F) ........................................................................
...................................................................................................................... 2,238 Ohms 20°C
(68°F) ..................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 3,520 Ohms 10°C (50°F) ........................................................................
...................................................................................................................... 5,670 Ohms 0°C (32°F)
..............................................................................................................................................................
................................. 9,420 Ohms -10°C (14°F) ..................................................................................
.......................................................................................................... 16,180 Ohms -20°C (-4°F) .......
..............................................................................................................................................................
........................ 28,680 Ohms -30°C (-22°F) .......................................................................................
.................................................................................................... 52,700 Ohms -40°C (-40°F) ...........
..............................................................................................................................................................
................ 100,700 Ohms
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Mechanical Specifications
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
............................................................................................................................................... 23 Nm
(17 lb. ft.)
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Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is a thermistor (a resistor which changes value
based on temperature) mounted in the engine coolant stream. Low coolant temperature produces a
high resistance (100,000 ohms at -40°C/-40°F) while high temperature causes low resistance (70
ohms at 130°C/266°F).
OPERATION
The PCM supplies a 5 volt signal to the engine coolant temperature sensor through a resistor in the
PCM and measures the voltage. The voltage will be high when the engine is cold, and low when
the engine is hot. By measuring the voltage, the PCM calculates the engine coolant temperature.
Engine coolant temperature affects most systems the PCM controls.
The scan tool displays engine coolant temperature in degrees. After engine start-up, the
temperature should rise steadily to about 90°C (194°F) then stabilize when thermostat opens. If the
engine has not been run for several hours (overnight) the engine coolant temperature and intake
air temperature displays should be close to each other. A hard fault in the engine coolant sensor
circuit should set DTC P0117 or DTC P0118; an intermittent fault should set a DTC P1114 or
P1115. The DTC Diagnostic Aids also contains a chart to check for sensor resistance values
relative to temperature.
The ECT sensor also contains another circuit which is used to operate the engine coolant
temperature gauge located in the instrument panel.
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Relieve coolant pressure. 2. Air intake duct. 3. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 4. Remove
the electrical connector. 5. Using a deep well socket and extension, remove the sensor.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Coat engine coolant temperature sensor threads with sealer P/N 9985253 or equivalent. 2.
Install the sensor in the engine.
Tighten Sensor to 23 Nm (17 lb. ft.).
3. Install the electrical connector. 4. Air intake duct. 5. Connect the negative battery cable. 6. Start
the engine. 7. Check for leaks. 8. Check the coolant level, replenish as needed.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications 24X Crankshaft Position Sensor
Camshaft Position Sensor Bolt ............................................................................................................
......................................................... 10 Nm (8 lb. ft.)
Crankshaft Balancer Bolt Torque [1]
...................................................................................................................................................... 150
Nm (110 lb. ft.)
[1] Apply thread sealer GM # 1052080 or equivalent to threads.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor > Page 737
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications 7X Crankshaft Position Sensor
Crankshaft Sensor Bolt Torque ...........................................................................................................
.......................................................... 8 Nm (71 lb in.)
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Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP)
Lower Rear Of Engine
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Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) > Page 740
Lower Front Of Engine
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Information and Instructions
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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Information and Instructions > Page 767
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Information and Instructions > Page 768
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Information and Instructions > Page 773
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Information and Instructions > Page 774
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Connector Views
7x Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
24x Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
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Information and Instructions > Page 775
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
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Operation > Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 3X
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 3X
3X Reference Low
The PCM uses this signal, from the ignition control module to calculate engine speed and
crankshaft position over 1280 RPM. The PCM also uses the pulses on this circuit to initiate injector
pulses. If the PCM receives no pulses on this circuit, DTC P1374 will set and the PCM will use the
24X reference signal circuit for fuel and ignition control.
This is a ground circuit for the digital RPM counter inside the PCM, but the wire is connected to
engine ground only through the ignition control module. Although this circuit is electrically
connected to the PCM, it is not connected to ground at the PCM. The PCM compares voltage
pulses on the reference input circuits to pulses on this circuit, ignoring pulses that appear on both.
Refer to Electronic Ignition System for further information.
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Operation > Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 3X > Page 778
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 7X
Description
The 7x crankshaft position sensor is the other Hall-effect switch closer to the crankshaft. The
interrupter ring is a special wheel cast on the crankshaft that has seven machined slots. six of
which are equally spaced 60 degrees apart. The seventh slot is spaced 10 degrees from one of the
other slots. as the interrupter ring rotates with the crankshaft, the slots change the magnetic field.
this will cause the 7x the Hall-effect switch to ground the 3X signal voltage that is supplied by the
ignition control module. The ignition control module interprets the 7x on-off signals as an indication
of crankshaft position. The ignition control module must have the 7x signal to fire the correct
ignition coil.
Operation
The crankshaft position sensor provides a signal used by the ignition control module. The ignition
control module also uses the 7X crankshaft position sensor to generate 3X reference pulses which
the PCM uses to calculate RPM and crankshaft position Refer to Electronic Ignition System for
additional information.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 24X
24X Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The 24X crankshaft position sensor (1), secured in, an aluminum mounting bracket and bolted to
the front left side of the engine timing chain cover, is partially behind the crankshaft. A 3-wire
harness connector plugs into the sensor, connecting it to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
The 24X Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor is used to improve idle spark control at engine speeds
up to approximately 1250 RPM.
OPERATION
The 24X crankshaft position sensor contains one Hall-effect switch and magnet. The magnet and
Hall-effect switch are separated by an air gap. A Hall-effect switch reacts like a solid state switch,
grounding a low current signal voltage when a magnetic field is present. When the magnetic field is
shielded from the switch by a piece of steel placed in the air gap between the magnet and the
switch, the signal voltage is not grounded. If the piece of steel (called an interrupter) is repeatedly
moved in and out of the air gap, the signal voltage will appear to go ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF.
Compared to a conventional mechanical distributor, this ON-OFF signal is similar to the signal that
a set of breaker points in the distributor would generate as the distributor shaft turned and the
points opened and closed. In the case of the electronic ignition system, the piece of steel is the
concentric interrupter ring mounted to the rear of the crankshaft balancer. The interrupter ring has
blades and windows that, with crankshaft rotation, either block the magnetic field or allow it to close
the Hall-effect switch. The Hall-effect switch produces a signal called the CKP 24X because the
interrupter ring has 24 evenly spaced blades and windows. When a CKP 24X interrupter ring
window is between the magnet and Hall-effect switch, the magnetic field will cause the CKP 24X
Hall-effect switch to ground the CKP 24X signal voltage supplied from the PCM. The CKP 24X
portion of the crankshaft position sensor produces 24 ON-OFF pulses per crankshaft revolution.
The 24X signal allows the PCM to determine a more precise crankshaft position at lower RPM.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
The crankshaft position system variation compensating values are stored in the PCM non-volatile
memory after a learn procedure has been performed. If the actual crankshaft position system
variation is not within the crankshaft position system variation compensating values stored in the
PCM, DTC P0300 may set refer to DTC P0300 Engine Misfire Detected. See: Powertrain
Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
The Crankshaft Position System Variation Learn Procedure should be performed if any of the
following conditions are true:
^ DTC P1336 is set.
^ The PCM has been replaced.
^ The PCM has been reprogrammed.
^ The engine has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft harmonic balancer has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft position sensor has been replaced.
Important: The scan tool crankshaft position system variation learn function will be inhibited if
engine coolant temperature is less than 70°C (156°F). Allow the engine to warm to at least 70°C
(156°F) before attempting the crankshaft position system variation learn procedure.
The scan tool crankshaft position system variation learn function will be inhibited if any powertrain
DTCs other than DTC P1336 are set before or during the crankshaft position system variation learn
procedure. Diagnose and repair any DTCs if set. The crankshaft position system variation learn
function will be inhibited if the PCM detects a malfunction involving the camshaft position signal
circuit, the 3X reference circuit, or the 24X reference circuit.
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the Cam signal, refer to DTC P0341 CMP Sensor Circuit
Performance. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and
Inspection
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the 3X crank signal, refer to DTC P1374 3X Reference
Circuit. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the 24X crank signal, refer to DTC P0336 24X Reference
Signal Circuit. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and
Inspection
1. Set the parking brake. 2. Start the engine and allow engine coolant temperature to reach at least
70°C (158°F). 3. Turn OFF the ignition switch. 4. Select the crankshaft position variation learn
procedure from the scan tool special functions list. 5. Follow the instructions displayed on the scan
tool. If the procedure is terminated, refer to Important above for instructions. 6. Observe DTC status
for DTC P1336. 7. If the scan tool indicates that DTC P1336 ran and passed, the crankshaft
position system variation learn procedure is complete. If the scan tool
indicates DTC P1336 failed or not run, check for other DTCs. If no DTCs other than P1336 are set,
repeat the crankshaft position system variation learn procedure as necessary.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement (7X)
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement (7X)
7X Crank Shaft Position (CKP) Sensor
Removal Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. 3.
Remove the CKP electrical connector. 4. Remove the CKP fastener. 5. Remove the CKP sensor
from the Engine Block. 6. if the CKP sensor is going to be re-used inspect the sensor for the
following:
6.1. Inspect the CKP sensor for wear, cracks, or leakage. Replace the O-ring if necessary. 6.2.
Lubricate the new O-ring with clean engine oil before installing
Installation Procedure
1. Install the CKP sensor to the block. 2. Install the bolt to hold the CKP sensor to the block face.
Tighten ^
Tighten the bolt to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
3. Connect the electrical connector. 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement (7X) > Page 783
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement (24X)
24X Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the serpentine drive belt from crankshaft
pulley. 3. Raise the vehicle on hoist. 4. Remove the crankshaft harmonic balancer retaining bolt. 5.
Remove the crankshaft harmonic balancer using special tool (J 24420-B) or equivalent. 6. Note the
routing of sensor harness before removal. 7. Remove the harness retaining clip with bolt (1). 8.
Remove the sensor electrical connector. 9. Remove the sensor bolts (2).
10. Remove the sensor.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the 24X Crankshaft Position Sensor with bolts (2) and route harness as noted during
removal. 2. Install the harness retaining clip with bolt (1).
Tighten Bolts to 10 Nm (8 lb. ft.).
3. Install the sensor electrical connector. 4. Install the balancer on the crankshaft using special tool
(J 29113) or equivalent. 5. Apply thread sealer GM #1052080 or equivalent to threads of the
crankshaft harmonic balancer bolt.
Tighten Bolt to 150 Nm (110 lb. ft.).
6. Lower vehicle. 7. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > EGR Valve Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and
Operation
EGR Valve Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Linear EGR Valve
DESCRIPTION
The EGR pintle position sensor is an integral part of the EGR valve assembly. This sensor can not
be serviced separately from the EGR valve.
The PCM monitors the EGR valve pintle position input to ensure that the valve responds properly
to commands from the PCM and to detect a fault if the pintle position sensor and control circuits
are open or shorted. If the PCM detects a pintle position signal voltage outside the normal range of
the pintle position sensor, or a signal voltage that is not within a tolerance considered acceptable
for proper EGR system operation, the PCM will set DTC P1406.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Level Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure
Fuel Level Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-83-07
Date: March, 1998
Subject: Fuel Level Sensor Replacement Procedure
Models: 1997-98 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Listed in Application Chart)
INFORMATION
This bulletin is being issued to clarify that, when fuel gauge diagnosis per the Service Manual
indicates the cause to be the fuel level sensor, complete fuel sender assembly replacement is NOT
required.
Available fuel level sensor service packages are indicated in the application charts and should be
installed following applicable Service Manual procedures and those provided in the service
packages.
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Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 792
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Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 793
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Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 794
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Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 795
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Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 796
Parts Information
See the charts for listed for applicable part numbers. Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the tables.
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Page 797
Fuel Level Sensor: Description and Operation
The fuel sensor is attached to the modular fuel sender assembly. As the position of the float varies
with the fuel level, the rheostat produces a variable resistance between the fuel gage and ground.
The fuel gage converts this variable resistance into the fuel level reading display on the instrument
panel.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams
Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor
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801
Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation
Fuel Filter
Description
The Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor is mounted on top of the modular fuel sender. The sensor
measures the difference between the fuel vapor pressure (or vacuum) in the fuel tank and the
outside air pressure. A three wire electrical harness connects it to the Powertrain Control Module
(PCM).
Operation
The PCM supplies a 5 volt reference signal and ground to the sensor. The sensor will return a
voltage between 0.1 volts and 4.9 volts back to the PCM depending on the fuel vapor pressure in
the fuel tank. When the fuel pressure in the fuel tank is equal to the outside air pressure, such as
when the fuel cap is removed, the output voltage will be 1.3 volts to 1.7 volts.
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Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Relieve the system fuel pressure. Refer to Fuel Pressure Release Procedure. 2. Drain fuel tank.
Refer to Draining Fuel Tank. 3. Remove the fuel tank. Refer to Fuel Tank. 4. Remove the electrical
connector from the fuel tank vapor pressure sensor. 5. Remove the fuel tank vapor pressure
sensor from modular fuel sender
Installation Procedure
1. Install the new fuel tank vapor pressure sensor to modular fuel sender. 2. Install the electrical
connector to fuel tank vapor pressure sensor 3. Install the fuel tank. Refer to Fuel Tank. 4. Refill
tank. 5. Install the negative battery cable.
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Electrical Specifications
Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Electrical Specifications
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
100°C (212°F) .....................................................................................................................................
......................................................... 177 Ohms 90°C (194°F) ............................................................
................................................................................................................................... 241 Ohms 80°C
(176°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 332 Ohms 70°C (158°F) ......................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 467 Ohms 60°C
(140°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 667 Ohms 50°C (122°F) ......................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 973 Ohms 40°C
(104°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 1,459 Ohms 30°C (86°F) ........................................................................
...................................................................................................................... 2,238 Ohms 20°C
(68°F) ..................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 3,520 Ohms 10°C (50°F) ........................................................................
...................................................................................................................... 5,670 Ohms 0°C (32°F)
..............................................................................................................................................................
................................. 9,420 Ohms -10°C (14°F) ..................................................................................
.......................................................................................................... 16,180 Ohms -20°C (-4°F) .......
..............................................................................................................................................................
........................ 28,680 Ohms -30°C (-22°F) .......................................................................................
.................................................................................................... 52,700 Ohms -40°C (-40°F) ...........
..............................................................................................................................................................
................ 100,700 Ohms
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Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Mechanical Specifications Torque Valve
Torque Valve
Induction Air Sensor 44 in.lb
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Diagram Information and Instructions
Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
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Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Electrical Diagrams
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844
Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Description and Operation
Operation
The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor is a thermistor which changes value based on the
temperature of air entering the engine. Low temperature produces a high resistance (100,000
ohms at -40°C (-40°F), while high temperature causes low resistance (70 ohms at 130°C (266°F).
The PCM supplies a 5 volt signal to the sensor through a resistor in the PCM and measures the
voltage. The voltage will be high when the incoming air is cold, and low when the air is hot. By
measuring the voltage, the PCM calculates the incoming air temperature. The IAT sensor signal is
used to adjust spark timing according to incoming air density.
The scan tool displays temperature of the air entering the engine, which should read close to
ambient air temperature when the engine is cold, and rise as the underhood temperature
increases. If the engine has not been run for several hours (overnight) the IAT sensor temperature
and engine coolant temperature should read close to each other. A failure in the IAT sensor circuit
should set DTC P0112 or DTC P0113.
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Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove the electrical connector. 2. Carefully grasp the sensor and with a twisting and pulling
motion, remove the IAT sensor from air intake duct.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the IAT Sensor into the hole. 2. Connect the electrical connector to the IAT Sensor.
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Front Of Engine
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Knock Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Knock Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Knock Sensor
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Knock Sensor: Description and Operation
Description
Varying octane levels in today's gasoline may cause detonation in some engines. Detonation is
caused by an uncontrolled explosion (burn) in the combustion chamber. This uncontrolled
explosion could produce a flame front opposite that of the normal flame front produced by the spark
plug. The rattling sound normally associated with detonation is the result of two or more opposing
pressures (flame fronts) colliding within the combustion chamber. Though light detonation is
sometimes considered normal, heavy detonation could result in engine damage.
To control spark knock, a Knock Sensor (KS) system is used. This system is designed to retard
spark timing to reduce spark knock in the engine. This allows the engine to use maximum spark
advance to improve driveability and fuel economy.
^ KS module.
^ Knock sensor.
Operation
The knock sensor detects abnormal vibration (spark knocking) in the engine. The sensor is
mounted in the engine block near the cylinders. The sensors produce an AC output voltage which
increases with the severity of the knock. This signal voltage is input to the PCM. The PCM then
adjusts the Ignition Control (IC) timing to reduce spark knock.
The knock sensor is used to detect engine detonation, allowing the PCM to retard Ignition Control
(IC) spark timing based on the KS signal being received. The knock sensor produces an AC signal
which rides on a 5 volts DC signal supplied by the PCM. The signal amplitude and frequency is
dependent upon the amount of knock being experienced.
The PCM determines whether knock is occurring by comparing the signal level on the KS circuit
with the voltage level on the noise channel. The noise channel allows the PCM to reject any false
knock signal by indicating the amount of normal engine mechanical noise present. Normal engine
noise varies depending on engine speed and load. If the voltage level on the KS noise channel
circuit is below the range considered normal, DTC P0327 will set, indicating a fault in the KS circuit
or one of the knock sensors. If the PCM determines that an abnormal minimum or maximum noise
level is being experienced, a DTC P0326 will set.
The PCM contains a replaceable Knock Sensor (KS) module. The KS module contains the circuitry
that allows the PCM to utilize the KS signal and diagnose the KS sensors and circuitry. If the KS
module is missing or faulty causing a continuous knock condition to be indicated, the PCM will set
DTC P0325.
The scan tool has four data displays available for diagnosing the KS system. The 4 displays are
described as follows:
^ KS Activity is used to monitor the input signal from the knock sensor. This counter will display
Yes while knock is being detected.
^ Knock Retard is the indication of how much the PCM is retarding the spark. The PCM will retard
spark in response to the Knock signal or the Traction Control system Desired Torque signal.
^ KS Noise Channel indicates the current voltage level being monitored on the noise channel.
DTCs P0325, P0326, and P0327 are designed to diagnose the KS module, the knock sensors, and
related wiring, so problems encountered with the KS system should set a DTC. However, if no DTC
was set but the KS system is suspect because detonation was the customer's complaint, refer to
Detonation/Spark Knock in Symptoms. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control
Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Knock Sensor: Testing and Inspection
The PCM contains a replaceable Knock Sensor (KS) module. The KS module contains the circuitry
that allows the PCM to utilize the KS signal and diagnose the KS sensors and circuitry. If the KS
module is missing or faulty causing a continuous knock condition to be indicated, the PCM will set
DTC P0325.
The scan tool has four data displays available for diagnosing the KS system. The 4 displays are
described as follows:
^ KS Activity is used to monitor the input signal from the knock sensor. This counter will display
Yes while knock is being detected.
^ Knock Retard is the indication of how much the PCM is retarding the spark. The PCM will retard
spark in response to the Knock signal or the Traction Control system Desired Torque signal.
^ KS Noise Channel indicates the current voltage level being monitored on the noise channel.
DTCs P0325, P0326, and P0327 are designed to diagnose the KS module, the knock sensors, and
related wiring, so problems encountered with the KS system should set a DTC. However, if no DTC
was set but the KS system is suspect because detonation was the customer's complaint, refer to
Detonation/Spark Knock in Symptoms. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control
Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Knock Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise the vehicle. 3. Remove the knock sensor wiring
harness connector from knock sensor. 4. Remove the knock sensor from engine block.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
NOTE: Do Not apply thread sealant to sensor threads. The sensor is coated at factory and applying
additional sealant will affect the sensors ability to detect detonation.
1. Install the knock sensor into engine block. 2. Install the knock sensor wiring harness connector
to the knock sensor. 3. Lower the vehicle. 4. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
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Diagram Information and Instructions
Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
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Page 924
Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Description and Operation
MAP Sensor Service
Description
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor responds to changes in intake manifold pressure
(vacuum). The MAP sensor signal voltage to the PCM varies from below 2 volts at idle (high
vacuum) to above 4 volts with the key ON, engine not running or at wide-open throttle (low
vacuum).
Operation
The MAP sensor is used to determine manifold pressure changes while the linear EGR flow test
diagnostic is being run (refer to DTC P0401 in DTC Tables), to determine engine vacuum level for
other diagnostics and to determine barometric pressure (BARO). See: Powertrain
Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
If the PCM detects a voltage that is lower than the possible range of the MAP sensor, DTC P0107
will be set. A signal voltage higher than the possible range of the sensor will set DTC P0108. An
intermittent low or high voltage will set DTC P1107 or P1106 respectively.
The PCM can also detect a shifted MAP sensor. The PCM compares the MAP sensor signal to a
calculated MAP based on throttle position and various engine load factors. If the PCM detects a
MAP signal that varies excessively above or below the calculated value, DTC P0106 will set.
The PCM updates the MAP sensor reading at each 3X reference pulse. If the 3X reference pulse is
lost the PCM will only update the MAP sensor once per ignition cycle and will retain that value until
the next ignition cycle. Depending on the retained MAP sensor value, the PCM will set the
appropriate high voltage DTC or low voltage DTC.
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Page 925
Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Service and Repair
MAP Sensor Service
Removal Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. The Fuel Injector harness is attached to the MAP
Sensor bracket. Disconnect the Fuel Injector Harness from the MAP Sensor. 3. Remove the
bolt/screws (2). 4. Remove the electrical connector. 5. Remove the inlet vacuum hose. 6. Remove
the MAP sensor from the bracket.
Installation Procedure
1. Installation the inlet vacuum hose. 2. Connect the electrical connector. 3. Position the MAP
sensor to bracket and drive bolt/screws (2) securely seated and not stripped. 4. Connect the Fuel
Injector harness to the MAP Sensor bracket. 5. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Oil Level Sensor For ECM > Component Information > Specifications
Oil Level Sensor For ECM: Specifications
Engine Oil Level Switch .......................................................................................................................
............................................. 17-27 Nm (13-20 lb ft)
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929
Oil Level Sensor For ECM: Description and Operation
Engine Oil Level Sensor
The PCM monitors the Engine Oil Level Sensor signal at start-up to determine if engine oil level is
OK. If the PCM determines that a low oil level condition exists, the PCM will illuminate the Low Oil
Level indicator lamp.
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Oil Level Sensor For ECM: Service and Repair
Engine Oil Level Sensor
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. 2. Drain the engine oil. 3. Disconnect the electrical connector from Engine Oil
Level Switch 4. Remove the Engine Oil Level Switch from the oil pan.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the Engine Oil Level Switch.
Tighten Switch to 17-27 Nm (13-20 lb. ft.).
2. Lower the vehicle. 3. Add the engine oil to the correct level.
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Front Of Engine
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Engine Oil Pressure Sensor
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Oxygen Sensor - Locations in Various Exhaust Systems
Oxygen Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Oxygen Sensor - Locations in Various Exhaust
Systems
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 67-65-40
Date: March, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Pictorial of Oxygen Sensor Designations in Various Exhaust Systems Configurations
Models: 1996-97 Passenger Cars, Geos and Trucks
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Oxygen Sensor - Locations in Various Exhaust Systems > Page 939
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Pictorials of the designation of oxygen sensors in General Motors vehicles.
There has been some confusion relative to OBD II oxygen sensor designation. The intent of this
bulletin is to eliminate misdiagnosis of those oxygen sensors due to misidentification. When using
Section 6E of the Service Manual, this chart can help locate the appropriate bank and sensor for
the diagnostic.
For "V" engines; BANK 1 is always on the side of the engine with the number 1 cylinder (odd
cylinders), and BANK 2 is always on the side of the engine where the number 2 cylinder (even
cylinders) is located.
Just a reminder, the OBD II P-codes, technician observations and customer comments are all to be
recorded on the repair order in accordance with article 1.6.2G of the GM Service Policies and
Procedures Manual.
Use the approved labor operation for the sensors replaced. J 6372 is used for engine out sensors.
Labor Operation J 6380 is for the pre-sensor (the sensor just in front of the catalytic converter) and
the post sensor (the sensor behind the catalytic converter).
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Page 942
Oxygen Sensor: Specifications
Heated Oxygen Sensor .......................................................................................................................
............................................... 42 +/- 4 Nm (31 lb. ft.)
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Bulletin Update
Oxygen Sensor: Locations Technical Service Bulletin Update
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 67-65-40
Date: March, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Pictorial of Oxygen Sensor Designations in Various Exhaust Systems Configurations
Models: 1996-97 Passenger Cars, Geos and Trucks
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Bulletin Update > Page 945
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Bulletin Update > Page 946
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Bulletin Update > Page 947
Pictorials of the designation of oxygen sensors in General Motors vehicles.
There has been some confusion relative to OBD II oxygen sensor designation. The intent of this
bulletin is to eliminate misdiagnosis of those oxygen sensors due to mis-identification. When using
Section 6E of the Service Manual, this chart can help locate the appropriate bank and sensor for
the diagnostic.
For "V" engines; BANK 1 is always on the side of the engine with the number 1 cylinder (odd
cylinders), and BANK 2 is always on the side of the engine where the number 2 cylinder (even
cylinders) is located.
Just a reminder, the OBD II P-codes, technician observations and customer comments are all to be
recorded on the repair order in accordance with article 1.6.2G of the GM Service Policies and
Procedures Manual.
Use the approved labor operation for the sensors replaced. J 6372 is used for engine out sensors.
Labor Operation J 6380 is for the pre-sensor (the sensor just in front of the catalytic converter) and
the post sensor (the sensor behind the catalytic converter).
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Bulletin Update > Page 948
Center Of Passenger Compartment, Under Vehicle
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Top Rear Of Engine
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Oxygen Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Oxygen Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Oxygen Sensor: Connector Views
Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 2)
Pre Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 1)
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Oxygen Sensor: Electrical Diagrams
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Control Oxygen Sensors
Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Fuel Control Oxygen Sensors
Description
The Precatalyst Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 1) is mounted in the exhaust manifold where it can
monitor the oxygen content of the exhaust gas stream. The oxygen present in the exhaust gas
reacts with the sensor to produce a voltage output. This voltage should constantly fluctuate from
approximately 100mV (high oxygen content - lean mixture) to 900mV (low oxygen content - rich
mixture). The heated oxygen sensor voltage can be monitored with a scan tool. By monitoring the
voltage output of the oxygen sensor, the PCM calculates what fuel mixture command to give to the
injectors (lean mixture-low HO2S voltage = rich command, rich mixture-high HO2S voltage = lean
command).
Operation
The HO2S 1 circuit, if open, should set a DTC P0134 and the scan tool will display a constant
voltage between 400 - 500mV. A constant voltage below 300mV in the sensor circuit (circuit
grounded) should set DTC P0131, while a constant voltage above 800mV in the circuit should set
DTC P0132. A fault in the HO2S 1 heater circuit should cause DTC P0135 to set. The PCM can
also detect HO2S response problems. If the response time of an HO2S is determined to be too
slow, the PCM will store a DTC that indicates degraded HO2S performance.
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Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Heated Oxygen Sensor 2 (HO2S 2) Catalyst Monitor
Function
The catalyst monitor sensors operate the same as the fuel control sensors. Although the HO2S 2
sensors' main function is catalyst monitoring, it also plays a limited role in fuel control. If the sensor
output indicates a voltage either above or below the 450 millivolt bias voltage for an extended
period of time, the PCM will make a slight adjustment to fuel trim to ensure that fuel delivery is
correct for catalyst monitoring.
A problem with the HO2S 2 signal circuit should set DTC P0137, P0138 or P0140, depending on
the specific condition. A fault in the heated oxygen sensor heater element or its ignition feed or
ground will result in slower oxygen sensor response. This may cause erroneous Catalyst monitor
diagnostic results. A fault in the HO2S 2 heater circuit should cause DTC P0141 to set.
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Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
Caution: The heated oxygen sensor may be difficult to remove when engine temperature is below
48°C (120°F). Excessive force may damage threads in exhaust manifold or exhaust pipe.
1. If HO2S 2 is being replaced, raise the vehicle. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector.
Important: A special anti-seize compound is used on the heated oxygen sensor threads The
compound consists of graphite suspended in fluid and glass beads. The graphite will burn away,
but the glass beads will remain, making the sensor easier to remove. New or service sensors will
already have the compound applied to the threads. If a sensor is removed from an engine and if for
any reason is to be reinstalled, the threads must have anti-seize compound applied before
reinstallation.
3. Carefully back out the heated oxygen sensor.
Installation Procedure
1. Coat the threads of heated oxygen sensor/catalyst monitor with anti-seize compound PIN
5613695, or equivalent if necessary. 2. Install the Heated Oxygen Sensor.
Tighten ^
Tighten the HO2S 1 (Pre-catalytic converter) to 42 +/- 4 N.m (31 lb ft).
^ Tighten the HO2S 2 (Post-catalytic converter) to 42 +/- 4 N.m (31 lb ft).
3. Connect the electrical connector.
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Throttle Position Sensor: Specifications
Throttle position sensor screws [1]
............................................................................................................................................................
2.0 Nm (18 lb in.)
1. Install the two TP sensor attaching screws, using a thread-locking compound on the screws.
Loctite® 262, GM Part No. 1052624, or equivalent should be used.
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992
Top Left Side Of Engine
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Throttle Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Throttle Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1025
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1026
Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1027
Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The Throttle Position (TP) sensor is a potentiometer connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle
body. By monitoring the voltage on the signal line, the PCM calculates throttle position. As the
throttle valve angle is changed (accelerator pedal moved), the TP sensor signal also changes. At a
closed throttle position, the output of the TP sensor is low. As the throttle valve opens the TP
sensor voltage increases so that at Wide Open Throttle (WOT), the TP sensor voltage should be
above 4 volts. The PCM calculates fuel delivery based on throttle valve angle (driver demand).
A broken or loose TP sensor may cause intermittent bursts of fuel from an injector and unstable
idle because the PCM thinks the throttle is moving. A hard failure in the TP sensor 5 volts reference
or signal circuits should set either a DTC P0122 or DTC P0123, and P1350. A hard failure with the
TP sensor ground circuit may set DTCs P0123 and P0117. Once a DTC is set, the PCM will use an
artificial default value based on engine RPM and mass air flow for throttle position and some
vehicle performance will return. A high idle may result when either DTC P0122 or DTC P0123 is
set.
The PCM can detect intermittent TP sensor faults. DTC P1121 or DTC P1122 will set if an
intermittent high or low circuit failure is being detected. The PCM can also detect a shifted TP
sensor. The PCM monitors throttle position and compares the actual TP sensor reading to a
predicted TP value calculated from engine speed. If the PCM detects an out of range condition,
DTC P0121 will be set.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1028
Throttle Position Sensor: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the TP sensor electrical connector. 2. Remove the 2 TP sensor attaching screws. 3.
Remove the TP sensor.
Installation Procedure
1. With the throttle valve in the normal closed idle position, install the TP sensor on the throttle
body assembly. 2. Install the 2 TP sensor attaching screws, using a thread-locking compound on
the screws. Loctite 262, GM Part No. 1052624, or equivalent should
be used.
Tighten ^
Tighten the TP sensor attaching screws to 2.0 Nm (18 lb in).
3. Install the TP sensor electrical connector.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 >
A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 >
A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 1037
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 >
A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 1038
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A >
Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A >
Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 1044
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A >
Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 1045
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1046
Valid Input Combinations
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1
Transaxle Range Switch: C1
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1 > Page 1049
Transaxle Range Switch: C2
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 1050
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Description and Operation
Valid Input Combinations
DESCRIPTION
The Transaxle Range Switch is part of the Transaxle Park/Neutral Position (PNP) switch mounted
on the transaxle manual shaft. The 4 inputs from the transaxle range switch indicate to the PCM
which position is selected by the Transaxle selector lever. This information is used for transmission
shift control, ignition timing, EVAP canister purge, EGR and Idle Air Control (IAC) valve operation.
The combination of the four transaxle range input states determine the PCM commanded shift
pattern.
The input voltage level at the PCM is high (B+) when the transaxle range switch is open and low
when the switch is closed to ground. The state of each input is represented on the scan tool as
X=high voltage level, O=low voltage level. The four parameters represent transaxle range switch
Parity, A, B, and C inputs respectively.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 1051
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 1052
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 1053
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift linkage. 3. Electrical connector. 4. Mounting bolts. 5. Switch
assembly.
REPLACEMENT - USING OLD SWITCH
Install Or Connect 1. Place shift shaft in NEUTRAL. 2. Align flats of shift shaft with switch. 3.
Mounting bolts, loosely. 4. Insert J 41545 and rotate switch until tool drops into position.
Tighten Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Remove Or Disconnect 1. J 41545.
IMPORTANT: After switch adjustment, verify that engine will only start in PARK or NEUTRAL. If engine will start
in any other position, readjust switch.
REPLACEMENT - USING NEW SWITCH
Install Or Connect 1. Place shift shaft in NEUTRAL. 2. Align flats of shift shaft to flats in switch and
install switch assembly. 3. Mounting bolts. 4. Insert tool J 41545 and rotate switch until tool drops
into position.
Tighten Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Important: After switch installation verify that engine will only start in PARK or NEUTRAL. If engine will start in
any other position, readjust switch using Replacement - Using Old Switch procedure.
Adjust 1. Place transaxle control shifter assembly in the NEUTRAL notch in detent plate. 2. Loosen
switch attaching bolts. 3. Rotate switch on shifter assembly to align J 41545.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 1054
Tighten -
Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
4. Remove J 41545.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS
Circuits
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 73-81-32
Date: May, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 8A - Electrical Diagnosis - New Diagnostic Tables for Vehicle Speed Sensor
Signal Circuit
Models: 1996-97
Buick Skylark
1996 Chevrolet Beretta, Corsica
1996-97 Chevrolet Cavalier
1997 Chevrolet Malibu
1996-97 Oldsmobile Achieva
1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
1996-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire
This bulletin is being issued to add new diagnostic tables to Section 8A of the Service Manual.
The tables included describe the diagnostic procedures for the diagnosis of the Vehicle Speed
Sensor signal circuit from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to auxiliary devices. Please insert
the included diagnostic tables into the Electrical Diagnosis Instrument Cluster section (Cell 80 J/L/N cars; Cell 81 L/N cars) of the Service Manual.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 1059
8A - 1 - 1 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 1060
8A - 1 - 2 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 1061
8A - 1 - 3 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 1062
8A - 1 - 4 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 1063
8A - 1 - 5 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 1064
8A - 1 - 6 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 1065
8A - 1 - 7 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 1066
8A - 1 - 8 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 1067
8A - 1 - 9 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 1068
8A - 1 - 10 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 1069
8A - 1 - 11 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 1070
8A - 1 - 12 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 1071
8A - 1 - 13 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 1072
8A - 1 - 14 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 1073
8A - 1 - 15 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 1074
8A - 1 - 16 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 1075
8A - 1 - 17 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 1076
8A - 1 - 18 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 1077
8A - 1 - 19 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 1078
8A - 1 - 20 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 1079
8A - 1 - 21 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 1080
8A - 1 - 22 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 1081
8A - 1 - 23 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 1082
8A - 1 - 24 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
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8A - 1 - 25 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
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8A - 1 - 26 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
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8A - 1 - 27 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
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8A - 1 - 28 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
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Rear Of Engine
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Description and Operation
The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) sends a pulsing voltage signal to the PCM which the PCM
convents to miles per hour. This sensor mainly controls the operation of the TCC, shift solenoids,
and cruise control systems. There are several different types of vehicle speed sensors. Refer to
Automatic Transmission/Transaxle for further information.
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise and support vehicle. 2. Electrical connector. 3. Bolt holding speed sensor. 4. Vehicle
speed sensor from case extension. 5. O-ring from vehicle speed sensor.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. O-ring onto vehicle speed sensor. 2. Vehicle speed sensor into case extension. 3. Bolt.
Tighten Bolt to 11 Nm (97 inch lbs.).
4. Electrical connector. 5. Lower vehicle.
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EGR Valve Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Linear EGR Valve
DESCRIPTION
The EGR pintle position sensor is an integral part of the EGR valve assembly. This sensor can not
be serviced separately from the EGR valve.
The PCM monitors the EGR valve pintle position input to ensure that the valve responds properly
to commands from the PCM and to detect a fault if the pintle position sensor and control circuits
are open or shorted. If the PCM detects a pintle position signal voltage outside the normal range of
the pintle position sensor, or a signal voltage that is not within a tolerance considered acceptable
for proper EGR system operation, the PCM will set DTC P1406.
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Information > Locations
Top Left Side Of Engine
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor measures the amount of air which passes through the throttle
body. The PCM uses this information to determine the operating condition of the engine, to control
fuel delivery. A large quantity of air indicates acceleration, while a small quantity indicates
deceleration or idle.
The scan tool reads the MAF value and displays it in grams per second (gm/s). At idle, it should
read between 4 gm/s-7 gm/s on a fully warmed up engine. Values should change rather quickly on
acceleration, but values should remain fairly stable at any given RPM. A failure in the MAF sensor
or circuit should set DTC P0101, DTC P0102, or DTC P0103.
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove the MAF sensor electrical connector. 2. Remove the air inlet duct from the MAF sensor.
3. Remove the MAF sensor from the air filter housing.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Carefully install the MAF sensor to the air inlet grommet. 2. Install the MAF sensor to the air inlet
duct. 3. Reconnect the electrical connector.
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Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor
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and Operation
Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The fuel pump and engine oil pressure indicator switch has two functions, to indicate low engine oil
pressure and to supply battery voltage to the fuel pump in the event the fuel pump relay fails.
OPERATION
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) checks the engine oil pressure continuously. If the oil
pressure switch indicates low oil pressure at any time, the PCM will send information through serial
data to the instrument cluster to turn "ON" the "Low Oil Pressure" telltale.
The oil pressure portion of the switch has normally closed contacts that open on an increasing oil
pressure of 41 kPa (6 psi) or less, and close on a decreasing pressure of 14 (2 psi). When the
switch is closed, the oil pressure signal is sent to the PCM, which in turn sends the information to
the instrument cluster through serial data. The oil pressure lamp on the instrument cluster is then
illuminated.
The fuel pump portion of the switch has a normally open contact that closes when increasing oil
pressure of 41 kPa (6 psi) or less, and opens when decreasing pressure of 14 (2 psi). In the event
the fuel pump relay fails, battery voltage is supplied to the fuel pump through the closed contacts
from the switch.
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Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Service and Repair
Engine Oil Pressure Switch
Removal Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise the vehicle. 3. Disconnect the electrical
connector from the engine oil pressure sensor. 4. Remove the engine oil pressure sensor.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the engine oil pressure sensor. 2. Tighten the oil pressure sensor to 16 Nm. 3. Connect
the electrical connector to the engine oil pressure sensor. 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Reconnect the
negative battery cable.
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Throttle Position Sensor: Specifications
Throttle position sensor screws [1]
............................................................................................................................................................
2.0 Nm (18 lb in.)
1. Install the two TP sensor attaching screws, using a thread-locking compound on the screws.
Loctite® 262, GM Part No. 1052624, or equivalent should be used.
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1180
Top Left Side Of Engine
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Throttle Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Throttle Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
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Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The Throttle Position (TP) sensor is a potentiometer connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle
body. By monitoring the voltage on the signal line, the PCM calculates throttle position. As the
throttle valve angle is changed (accelerator pedal moved), the TP sensor signal also changes. At a
closed throttle position, the output of the TP sensor is low. As the throttle valve opens the TP
sensor voltage increases so that at Wide Open Throttle (WOT), the TP sensor voltage should be
above 4 volts. The PCM calculates fuel delivery based on throttle valve angle (driver demand).
A broken or loose TP sensor may cause intermittent bursts of fuel from an injector and unstable
idle because the PCM thinks the throttle is moving. A hard failure in the TP sensor 5 volts reference
or signal circuits should set either a DTC P0122 or DTC P0123, and P1350. A hard failure with the
TP sensor ground circuit may set DTCs P0123 and P0117. Once a DTC is set, the PCM will use an
artificial default value based on engine RPM and mass air flow for throttle position and some
vehicle performance will return. A high idle may result when either DTC P0122 or DTC P0123 is
set.
The PCM can detect intermittent TP sensor faults. DTC P1121 or DTC P1122 will set if an
intermittent high or low circuit failure is being detected. The PCM can also detect a shifted TP
sensor. The PCM monitors throttle position and compares the actual TP sensor reading to a
predicted TP value calculated from engine speed. If the PCM detects an out of range condition,
DTC P0121 will be set.
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Throttle Position Sensor: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the TP sensor electrical connector. 2. Remove the 2 TP sensor attaching screws. 3.
Remove the TP sensor.
Installation Procedure
1. With the throttle valve in the normal closed idle position, install the TP sensor on the throttle
body assembly. 2. Install the 2 TP sensor attaching screws, using a thread-locking compound on
the screws. Loctite 262, GM Part No. 1052624, or equivalent should
be used.
Tighten ^
Tighten the TP sensor attaching screws to 2.0 Nm (18 lb in).
3. Install the TP sensor electrical connector.
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Camshaft Position Sensor Bolt ............................................................................................................
........................................................... 10 Nm (8 lb ft)
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Top Rear Of Engine
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Instructions > Page 1255
Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Camshaft Position Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) sends a cam signal to the PCM which uses it as a sync
pulse to trigger the injectors in proper sequence. The CAM signal is passed through the ignition
control module. It is filtered and buffered by the ignition control module, but the signal is not
processed in any other way. The PCM uses the CAM signal to indicate the position of the #1 piston
during its power stroke. This allows the PCM to calculate true Sequential Fuel Injection (SFI) mode
of operation. If the PCM detects an incorrect CAM signal while the engine is running, DTC P0341
will set.
If the CAM signal is lost while the engine is running, the fuel injection system will shift to a
calculated sequential fuel injection mode based on the last fuel injection pulse, and the engine will
continue to run. The engine can be restarted and will run in the calculated sequential mode as long
as the fault is present with a 1 in 6 chance of injector sequence being correct. Refer to DTC P0341/
Diagnostic Trouble Code Tables for further information. See: Powertrain Management/Computers
and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
Camshaft Position Sensor
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the serpentine drive belt. 3. Refer to Steering
and Suspension for removal of power steering pump assembly. 4. Remove the electrical connector.
5. Remove the bolt. 6. Remove the sensor.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the Camshaft Position Sensor.
Tighten Retaining bolt to 10 Nm (8 lb. ft.).
2. Install the electrical Connector 3. Install the power steering pump. 4. Install the serpentine drive
belt.
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Position Sensor
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications 24X Crankshaft Position Sensor
Camshaft Position Sensor Bolt ............................................................................................................
......................................................... 10 Nm (8 lb. ft.)
Crankshaft Balancer Bolt Torque [1]
...................................................................................................................................................... 150
Nm (110 lb. ft.)
[1] Apply thread sealer GM # 1052080 or equivalent to threads.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications 7X Crankshaft Position Sensor
Crankshaft Sensor Bolt Torque ...........................................................................................................
.......................................................... 8 Nm (71 lb in.)
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Sensor (CKP)
Lower Rear Of Engine
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Sensor (CKP) > Page 1265
Lower Front Of Engine
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Connector Views
7x Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
24x Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
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Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
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Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 3X
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 3X
3X Reference Low
The PCM uses this signal, from the ignition control module to calculate engine speed and
crankshaft position over 1280 RPM. The PCM also uses the pulses on this circuit to initiate injector
pulses. If the PCM receives no pulses on this circuit, DTC P1374 will set and the PCM will use the
24X reference signal circuit for fuel and ignition control.
This is a ground circuit for the digital RPM counter inside the PCM, but the wire is connected to
engine ground only through the ignition control module. Although this circuit is electrically
connected to the PCM, it is not connected to ground at the PCM. The PCM compares voltage
pulses on the reference input circuits to pulses on this circuit, ignoring pulses that appear on both.
Refer to Electronic Ignition System for further information.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 7X
Description
The 7x crankshaft position sensor is the other Hall-effect switch closer to the crankshaft. The
interrupter ring is a special wheel cast on the crankshaft that has seven machined slots. six of
which are equally spaced 60 degrees apart. The seventh slot is spaced 10 degrees from one of the
other slots. as the interrupter ring rotates with the crankshaft, the slots change the magnetic field.
this will cause the 7x the Hall-effect switch to ground the 3X signal voltage that is supplied by the
ignition control module. The ignition control module interprets the 7x on-off signals as an indication
of crankshaft position. The ignition control module must have the 7x signal to fire the correct
ignition coil.
Operation
The crankshaft position sensor provides a signal used by the ignition control module. The ignition
control module also uses the 7X crankshaft position sensor to generate 3X reference pulses which
the PCM uses to calculate RPM and crankshaft position Refer to Electronic Ignition System for
additional information.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 24X
24X Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The 24X crankshaft position sensor (1), secured in, an aluminum mounting bracket and bolted to
the front left side of the engine timing chain cover, is partially behind the crankshaft. A 3-wire
harness connector plugs into the sensor, connecting it to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
The 24X Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor is used to improve idle spark control at engine speeds
up to approximately 1250 RPM.
OPERATION
The 24X crankshaft position sensor contains one Hall-effect switch and magnet. The magnet and
Hall-effect switch are separated by an air gap. A Hall-effect switch reacts like a solid state switch,
grounding a low current signal voltage when a magnetic field is present. When the magnetic field is
shielded from the switch by a piece of steel placed in the air gap between the magnet and the
switch, the signal voltage is not grounded. If the piece of steel (called an interrupter) is repeatedly
moved in and out of the air gap, the signal voltage will appear to go ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF.
Compared to a conventional mechanical distributor, this ON-OFF signal is similar to the signal that
a set of breaker points in the distributor would generate as the distributor shaft turned and the
points opened and closed. In the case of the electronic ignition system, the piece of steel is the
concentric interrupter ring mounted to the rear of the crankshaft balancer. The interrupter ring has
blades and windows that, with crankshaft rotation, either block the magnetic field or allow it to close
the Hall-effect switch. The Hall-effect switch produces a signal called the CKP 24X because the
interrupter ring has 24 evenly spaced blades and windows. When a CKP 24X interrupter ring
window is between the magnet and Hall-effect switch, the magnetic field will cause the CKP 24X
Hall-effect switch to ground the CKP 24X signal voltage supplied from the PCM. The CKP 24X
portion of the crankshaft position sensor produces 24 ON-OFF pulses per crankshaft revolution.
The 24X signal allows the PCM to determine a more precise crankshaft position at lower RPM.
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1305
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
The crankshaft position system variation compensating values are stored in the PCM non-volatile
memory after a learn procedure has been performed. If the actual crankshaft position system
variation is not within the crankshaft position system variation compensating values stored in the
PCM, DTC P0300 may set refer to DTC P0300 Engine Misfire Detected. See: Powertrain
Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
The Crankshaft Position System Variation Learn Procedure should be performed if any of the
following conditions are true:
^ DTC P1336 is set.
^ The PCM has been replaced.
^ The PCM has been reprogrammed.
^ The engine has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft harmonic balancer has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft position sensor has been replaced.
Important: The scan tool crankshaft position system variation learn function will be inhibited if
engine coolant temperature is less than 70°C (156°F). Allow the engine to warm to at least 70°C
(156°F) before attempting the crankshaft position system variation learn procedure.
The scan tool crankshaft position system variation learn function will be inhibited if any powertrain
DTCs other than DTC P1336 are set before or during the crankshaft position system variation learn
procedure. Diagnose and repair any DTCs if set. The crankshaft position system variation learn
function will be inhibited if the PCM detects a malfunction involving the camshaft position signal
circuit, the 3X reference circuit, or the 24X reference circuit.
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the Cam signal, refer to DTC P0341 CMP Sensor Circuit
Performance. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and
Inspection
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the 3X crank signal, refer to DTC P1374 3X Reference
Circuit. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the 24X crank signal, refer to DTC P0336 24X Reference
Signal Circuit. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and
Inspection
1. Set the parking brake. 2. Start the engine and allow engine coolant temperature to reach at least
70°C (158°F). 3. Turn OFF the ignition switch. 4. Select the crankshaft position variation learn
procedure from the scan tool special functions list. 5. Follow the instructions displayed on the scan
tool. If the procedure is terminated, refer to Important above for instructions. 6. Observe DTC status
for DTC P1336. 7. If the scan tool indicates that DTC P1336 ran and passed, the crankshaft
position system variation learn procedure is complete. If the scan tool
indicates DTC P1336 failed or not run, check for other DTCs. If no DTCs other than P1336 are set,
repeat the crankshaft position system variation learn procedure as necessary.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft
Position Sensor Replacement (7X)
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement (7X)
7X Crank Shaft Position (CKP) Sensor
Removal Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. 3.
Remove the CKP electrical connector. 4. Remove the CKP fastener. 5. Remove the CKP sensor
from the Engine Block. 6. if the CKP sensor is going to be re-used inspect the sensor for the
following:
6.1. Inspect the CKP sensor for wear, cracks, or leakage. Replace the O-ring if necessary. 6.2.
Lubricate the new O-ring with clean engine oil before installing
Installation Procedure
1. Install the CKP sensor to the block. 2. Install the bolt to hold the CKP sensor to the block face.
Tighten ^
Tighten the bolt to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
3. Connect the electrical connector. 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft
Position Sensor Replacement (7X) > Page 1308
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement (24X)
24X Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the serpentine drive belt from crankshaft
pulley. 3. Raise the vehicle on hoist. 4. Remove the crankshaft harmonic balancer retaining bolt. 5.
Remove the crankshaft harmonic balancer using special tool (J 24420-B) or equivalent. 6. Note the
routing of sensor harness before removal. 7. Remove the harness retaining clip with bolt (1). 8.
Remove the sensor electrical connector. 9. Remove the sensor bolts (2).
10. Remove the sensor.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the 24X Crankshaft Position Sensor with bolts (2) and route harness as noted during
removal. 2. Install the harness retaining clip with bolt (1).
Tighten Bolts to 10 Nm (8 lb. ft.).
3. Install the sensor electrical connector. 4. Install the balancer on the crankshaft using special tool
(J 29113) or equivalent. 5. Apply thread sealer GM #1052080 or equivalent to threads of the
crankshaft harmonic balancer bolt.
Tighten Bolt to 150 Nm (110 lb. ft.).
6. Lower vehicle. 7. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition
Technical Service Bulletin # 99-08-49-008 Date: 990701
Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-49-008
Date: July, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Chime Sounds When Key Is Removed from Ignition, Intermittent Operation of Power Door
Locks, Keyless Entry, Steering Column Lock or Memory Seats (Inspect/Replace Lock Cylinder
Actuator or Lock Cylinder Assembly)
Models: 1991-99 Chevrolet Corvette, Malibu 1997-99 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1998-99 Oldsmobile
Intrigue 1999 Oldsmobile Alero 1999 Pontiac Grand Am
This Bulletin is being revised to add additional symptoms and conditions. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 83-83-20 (Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical)
Condition Some customers may comment that the key warning chime continues to sound after the
ignition key has been removed from the ignition lock cylinder. They may also comment that the
automatic power door locks will not lock the doors when the key is removed from the ignition lock
cylinder and the warning chime is sounding.
On Corvette models, some customers may comment that there is an intermittent operation of the
passive keyless entry system, the steering column lock, or the retracting feature of the memory
power seat option when exiting the vehicle.
Cause The actuator, located in the ignition lock cylinder, may be sticking after the key is removed.
Correction Remove the ignition lock cylinder for the instrument panel using the following
procedures. Once removed from the vehicle, use the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test
Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to determine the correct repair procedure.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description Application
All Models
12450483 Actuator Listed Above
12458191 Lock Service Package All, (Except Corvette
12458190 Lock Service Package Corvette Only
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page
1318
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Malibu and Cutlass Models
Malibu and Cutlass Models - Lock Cylinder
Removal
Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
dis8ble the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the lock cylinder bezel.
3. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
5. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
6. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
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Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page
1319
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Malibu and Cutlass Models - Lock Cylinder
Installation
Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the lock cylinder bezel.
5. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
6. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Alero and Grand AM Models
Alero and Grand Am Models - Lock Cylinder
Removal
Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the shift knob/handle (Alero Only).
3. Remove the console shifter trim plate (Alero Only). See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the lock cylinder bezel.
5. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
7. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
8. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Alero and Grand Am Models - Lock Cylinder
Installation
Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, Insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the lock cylinder bezel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page
1320
5. Install the console shifter trim plate (Alero Only). See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Install the shift knob/handle (Alero Only).
7. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
8. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Intrigue Models
Intrigue Models - Lock Cylinder Removal Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SiR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SiR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the left side instrument panel insulator. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section
of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
3. Remove the console trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
5. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
6. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
7. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Intrigue Models - Lock Cylinder Installation Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the console trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
5. Install the left side instrument panel insulator. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of
Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
7. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Corvette Models
Corvette Models - Lock Cylinder Removal Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the console. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in
the Service Manual.
3. Remove the instrument panel accessory trim plate. See the instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the lock cylinder.
5. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
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Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page
1321
6. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Corvette Models - Lock Cylinder Installation Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Connect the electrical connector to the lock cylinder.
3. Install the instrument panel accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the console. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in
the Service Manual.
5. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
Actuator Type Identification
With the key installed, hold the lock cylinder as shown in Figure 2 to determine what type of
actuator is being used. FOLLOW THE APPROPRIATE TEST PROCEDURE FOR THE TYPE OF
ACTUATOR BEING USED.
Test Procedure - New and Early Design Actuator
Test Procedure
Early Design Actuator:
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page
1322
1. With the lock cylinder held vertically as shown in Figure 3, remove the key from the lock. When
the key is removed, the actuator should drop down in the lock cylinder approximately 4-5 mm (3/16
in). Repeat this step several times.
2. If the EARLY design actuator in the lock cylinder does NOT drop down, replace the complete
lock assembly.
3. If the EARLY design actuator in the lock cylinder DOES drop down, replace the actuator with the
new design actuator P/N 12450483.
To replace the actuator, install the key in the lock and grasp the end of the actuator with a pair of
small long nose (needle nose) pliers and pull firmly. With the key still in the lock, install the new
actuator by aligning the actuator shaft with the opening in the lock cylinder and pushing the
actuator into place. Verify the correct actuator operation by performing Step 1 again.
Important:
After installing a new actuator, correct actuator operation must be confirmed.
New Design Actuator:
1. With the lock cylinder held vertically as shown in Figure 3, remove the key from the lock. When
the key is removed, the actuator should drop down in the lock cylinder approximately 4-5 mm (3/16
in). Repeat this step several times.
2. If the NEW design actuator in the lock cylinder does NOT drop down, replace the lock cylinder
assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
Technical Service Bulletin # 73-01-09 Date: 971001
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 73-01-09
Date: October, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tumblers for Cylinder Recoding, Revised Repair Procedures for Inoperative Ignition
Cylinders (Seized/Won't Rotate), Labor Operation/Time Allowances
Models: 1995-97 Buick Skylark, Riviera 1995-97 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997 Chevrolet Corvette,
Malibu, Venture 1995-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora, Cutlass, Silhouette
1995-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T Models 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC G, M/L Vans 1996-97
Oldsmobile Bravada
The information in this bulletin concerns new designed tumblers for recoding lock cylinders that use
double sided reversible keys, revised procedures for servicing ignition lock cylinders that are seized
or not able to rotate and revised labor time guide information and allowances.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1327
The existing labor operation (E7200) has been changed to include "Add" conditions for cylinders
that will not rotate.
New Tumblers
New tumblers are available from GMSPO for recoding lock cylinders that use double-sided
reversible keys. These new tumblers should be used immediately and information about the
disposition of original tumblers will be provided by GMSPO. Figure 1 shows the new tumbler
profile. The shaded area was part of the original tumbler profile, and is removed on the new
tumblers. The new part numbers for the tumblers are as follows:
Part No. 2852732 = Tumbler # 1
Part No. 2852733 = Tumbler # 2
Part No. 2852734 = Tumbler # 3
Part No. 2852735 = Tumbler # 4
Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
New Procedures For Seized/Won't Rotate Column Mounted Ign. CYL.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1328
A. On G, J and N Models:
DO NOT REMOVE THE STEERING COLUMN as indicated in the Service Manual procedure.
1. Remove the tilt lever, upper and lower column covers.
2. Drill hole in module housing as indicated in the illustration using a short drill bit (1/8" followed by
9/32") and 90 degree drill motor or go degree drill attachment to break or access the retaining
spring for the lock cylinder button, see Figure 2.
3. Using a pick or needle nose pliers, remove the retaining spring from the hole.
4. Using pliers, grasp and remove the retaining button for the cylinder.
5. Remove the cylinder from the housing.
6. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
7. Install the new cylinder and reinstall the steering column components.
B. On U, W, and light duty trucks, follow the Service Manual procedure for keys missing, or
cylinders won't rotate.
Procedure: Instrument Panel Mounted Switches
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1329
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 01-08-49-020 > Dec > 01 > Ignition Lock
Cylinder/Switch - Replacement Revision
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Lock Cylinder/Switch Replacement Revision
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 01-08-49-020
Date: December, 2001
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Revised Ignition Lock Cylinder or Ignition Switch Assembly Replacement
Models: 1996-1998 Buick Skylark 1997-2002 Chevrolet Malibu 1996-1998 Oldsmobile Achieva
1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999-2002 Oldsmobile Alero 1996-2002 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin is being issued to revise the Lock Cylinder Replacement procedure and the Ignition
Switch Assembly Replacement procedure in the Steering Wheel and Column or Instrument Panel,
Gages and Console sub-section of the Service Manual. Please replace the current information in
the Service Manual with the following information.
The following information has been updated within SI2000 for 1998-2002. If you are using a paper
version of this Service Manual, please make a reference to this bulletin on the affected page.
The above mentioned Service Manuals omitted information regarding performing the Passlock
Relearn or Autolearn procedure after an ignition lock cylinder or ignition switch assembly has been
replaced. If you have replaced either of these components, refer to the following procedures:
For 1996-1998 Grand Am, Achieva, Skylark and 1997-98 Malibu and Cutlass paper Service
Manuals, refer to Changing VTD Components in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
For 1998-2000 Malibu, 1998-99 Cutlass, 1999-2000 Alero and Grand Am information in SI2000,
refer to Passlock Reprogramming Autolearn in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
For 2001-2002 Malibu, Alero and Grand Am, refer to Programming Theft Deterrent System
Components in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds
When Key is Removed From Ignition
Technical Service Bulletin # 99-08-49-008 Date: 990701
Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-49-008
Date: July, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Chime Sounds When Key Is Removed from Ignition, Intermittent Operation of Power Door
Locks, Keyless Entry, Steering Column Lock or Memory Seats (Inspect/Replace Lock Cylinder
Actuator or Lock Cylinder Assembly)
Models: 1991-99 Chevrolet Corvette, Malibu 1997-99 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1998-99 Oldsmobile
Intrigue 1999 Oldsmobile Alero 1999 Pontiac Grand Am
This Bulletin is being revised to add additional symptoms and conditions. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 83-83-20 (Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical)
Condition Some customers may comment that the key warning chime continues to sound after the
ignition key has been removed from the ignition lock cylinder. They may also comment that the
automatic power door locks will not lock the doors when the key is removed from the ignition lock
cylinder and the warning chime is sounding.
On Corvette models, some customers may comment that there is an intermittent operation of the
passive keyless entry system, the steering column lock, or the retracting feature of the memory
power seat option when exiting the vehicle.
Cause The actuator, located in the ignition lock cylinder, may be sticking after the key is removed.
Correction Remove the ignition lock cylinder for the instrument panel using the following
procedures. Once removed from the vehicle, use the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test
Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to determine the correct repair procedure.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description Application
All Models
12450483 Actuator Listed Above
12458191 Lock Service Package All, (Except Corvette
12458190 Lock Service Package Corvette Only
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds
When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 1339
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Malibu and Cutlass Models
Malibu and Cutlass Models - Lock Cylinder
Removal
Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
dis8ble the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the lock cylinder bezel.
3. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
5. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
6. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
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When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 1340
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Malibu and Cutlass Models - Lock Cylinder
Installation
Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the lock cylinder bezel.
5. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
6. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Alero and Grand AM Models
Alero and Grand Am Models - Lock Cylinder
Removal
Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the shift knob/handle (Alero Only).
3. Remove the console shifter trim plate (Alero Only). See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the lock cylinder bezel.
5. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
7. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
8. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Alero and Grand Am Models - Lock Cylinder
Installation
Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, Insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the lock cylinder bezel.
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds
When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 1341
5. Install the console shifter trim plate (Alero Only). See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Install the shift knob/handle (Alero Only).
7. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
8. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Intrigue Models
Intrigue Models - Lock Cylinder Removal Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SiR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SiR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the left side instrument panel insulator. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section
of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
3. Remove the console trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
5. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
6. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
7. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Intrigue Models - Lock Cylinder Installation Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the console trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
5. Install the left side instrument panel insulator. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of
Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
7. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Corvette Models
Corvette Models - Lock Cylinder Removal Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the console. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in
the Service Manual.
3. Remove the instrument panel accessory trim plate. See the instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the lock cylinder.
5. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds
When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 1342
6. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Corvette Models - Lock Cylinder Installation Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Connect the electrical connector to the lock cylinder.
3. Install the instrument panel accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the console. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in
the Service Manual.
5. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
Actuator Type Identification
With the key installed, hold the lock cylinder as shown in Figure 2 to determine what type of
actuator is being used. FOLLOW THE APPROPRIATE TEST PROCEDURE FOR THE TYPE OF
ACTUATOR BEING USED.
Test Procedure - New and Early Design Actuator
Test Procedure
Early Design Actuator:
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Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds
When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 1343
1. With the lock cylinder held vertically as shown in Figure 3, remove the key from the lock. When
the key is removed, the actuator should drop down in the lock cylinder approximately 4-5 mm (3/16
in). Repeat this step several times.
2. If the EARLY design actuator in the lock cylinder does NOT drop down, replace the complete
lock assembly.
3. If the EARLY design actuator in the lock cylinder DOES drop down, replace the actuator with the
new design actuator P/N 12450483.
To replace the actuator, install the key in the lock and grasp the end of the actuator with a pair of
small long nose (needle nose) pliers and pull firmly. With the key still in the lock, install the new
actuator by aligning the actuator shaft with the opening in the lock cylinder and pushing the
actuator into place. Verify the correct actuator operation by performing Step 1 again.
Important:
After installing a new actuator, correct actuator operation must be confirmed.
New Design Actuator:
1. With the lock cylinder held vertically as shown in Figure 3, remove the key from the lock. When
the key is removed, the actuator should drop down in the lock cylinder approximately 4-5 mm (3/16
in). Repeat this step several times.
2. If the NEW design actuator in the lock cylinder does NOT drop down, replace the lock cylinder
assembly.
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised
Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
Technical Service Bulletin # 73-01-09 Date: 971001
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 73-01-09
Date: October, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tumblers for Cylinder Recoding, Revised Repair Procedures for Inoperative Ignition
Cylinders (Seized/Won't Rotate), Labor Operation/Time Allowances
Models: 1995-97 Buick Skylark, Riviera 1995-97 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997 Chevrolet Corvette,
Malibu, Venture 1995-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora, Cutlass, Silhouette
1995-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T Models 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC G, M/L Vans 1996-97
Oldsmobile Bravada
The information in this bulletin concerns new designed tumblers for recoding lock cylinders that use
double sided reversible keys, revised procedures for servicing ignition lock cylinders that are seized
or not able to rotate and revised labor time guide information and allowances.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
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Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised
Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1348
The existing labor operation (E7200) has been changed to include "Add" conditions for cylinders
that will not rotate.
New Tumblers
New tumblers are available from GMSPO for recoding lock cylinders that use double-sided
reversible keys. These new tumblers should be used immediately and information about the
disposition of original tumblers will be provided by GMSPO. Figure 1 shows the new tumbler
profile. The shaded area was part of the original tumbler profile, and is removed on the new
tumblers. The new part numbers for the tumblers are as follows:
Part No. 2852732 = Tumbler # 1
Part No. 2852733 = Tumbler # 2
Part No. 2852734 = Tumbler # 3
Part No. 2852735 = Tumbler # 4
Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
New Procedures For Seized/Won't Rotate Column Mounted Ign. CYL.
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Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised
Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1349
A. On G, J and N Models:
DO NOT REMOVE THE STEERING COLUMN as indicated in the Service Manual procedure.
1. Remove the tilt lever, upper and lower column covers.
2. Drill hole in module housing as indicated in the illustration using a short drill bit (1/8" followed by
9/32") and 90 degree drill motor or go degree drill attachment to break or access the retaining
spring for the lock cylinder button, see Figure 2.
3. Using a pick or needle nose pliers, remove the retaining spring from the hole.
4. Using pliers, grasp and remove the retaining button for the cylinder.
5. Remove the cylinder from the housing.
6. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
7. Install the new cylinder and reinstall the steering column components.
B. On U, W, and light duty trucks, follow the Service Manual procedure for keys missing, or
cylinders won't rotate.
Procedure: Instrument Panel Mounted Switches
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
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Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised
Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1350
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock Remove/Install Procedure
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install
Procedure
File In Section: 8 Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 63-83-16A
Date: May, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 8C - New Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder Remove/Install Procedure
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
This bulletin is being revised to add an "Important" statement to Step 9 regarding the procedure if
an ignition key or key code is not available. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 63-83-16
(Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical).
This bulletin is being issued to add the remove/install procedure for the ignition switch lock cylinder
in Section 8C of the Service Manual (GMP/97-LN-1). Please insert the following information in the
instrument Panel, Gauges and Console section of the Service Manual.
IGNITION SWITCH LOCK CYLINDER (Refer to Figure 26 in the Service Manual)
The ignition key is needed to properly remove the ignition switch lock cylinder from the ignition
switch. If the ignition key or key code is unavailable, follow the instructions in the "Important"
statement after Step 9 of "Remove or Disconnect".
Procedure
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable.
2. Disable SIR system. Refer to Disabling SIR in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
3. Ignition switch trim ring.
4. Accessory trim plate. Refer to Accessory Trim Plate in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
5. Upper steering column cover. Refer to Steering Column Covers in Steering Wheel and Column On Vehicle Service in Section 3F of the Service Manual.
6. Instrument cluster trim plate. Refer to Cluster Trim Plate in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
7. Instrument cluster. Refer to Instrument Panel Cluster in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
8. Ignition switch assembly bolts.
9. Ignition switch assembly electrical connectors.
Important:
If the ignition key or key code is not available or the ignition cylinder will not rotate, use the
following procedure to drill a hole in the switch and remove the cylinder. It "Pass Lock" equipped,
there is no need to disconnect prior to cylinder removal.
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock Remove/Install Procedure > Page 1355
a. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 1.
b. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
c. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
d. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
e. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch body and check the cylinder code, see Figure
2.
f. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
g. Install the new cylinder by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the "ON" position and
pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release button slightly as it
passes by the 9/32' hole previously drilled in the housing.
10. Ignition lock cable from ignition switch assembly.
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock Remove/Install Procedure > Page 1356
11. Ignition switch assembly from vehicle.
12. Insert key into ignition switch cylinder and rotate to the RUN position.
13. Press the cylinder release plunger (located at the 4 o'clock position) on the ignition switch
assembly.
14. Pull cylinder from ignition switch with key.
Install or Connect
1. Cylinder to ignition switch, verify engagement and operation with key.
2. Ignition switch assembly to vehicle.
3. Ignition lock cable to ignition switch assembly, verify engagement.
4. Ignition switch assembly electrical connectors, verify engagement.
5. Ignition switch assembly bolts.
6. Instrument cluster.
7. Instrument cluster trim plate.
8. Upper steering column cover.
9. Accessory trim plate.
10. Ignition switch trim ring.
11. Enable SIR system. Refer to Enabling SIR in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
12. Negative battery cable.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
Cylinder, Ignition Use published
E7200 Lock - R & R or labor operation
Replace time
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Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 01-08-49-020 > Dec > 01 > Ignition Lock
Cylinder/Switch - Replacement Revision
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Lock Cylinder/Switch Replacement Revision
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 01-08-49-020
Date: December, 2001
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Revised Ignition Lock Cylinder or Ignition Switch Assembly Replacement
Models: 1996-1998 Buick Skylark 1997-2002 Chevrolet Malibu 1996-1998 Oldsmobile Achieva
1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999-2002 Oldsmobile Alero 1996-2002 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin is being issued to revise the Lock Cylinder Replacement procedure and the Ignition
Switch Assembly Replacement procedure in the Steering Wheel and Column or Instrument Panel,
Gages and Console sub-section of the Service Manual. Please replace the current information in
the Service Manual with the following information.
The following information has been updated within SI2000 for 1998-2002. If you are using a paper
version of this Service Manual, please make a reference to this bulletin on the affected page.
The above mentioned Service Manuals omitted information regarding performing the Passlock
Relearn or Autolearn procedure after an ignition lock cylinder or ignition switch assembly has been
replaced. If you have replaced either of these components, refer to the following procedures:
For 1996-1998 Grand Am, Achieva, Skylark and 1997-98 Malibu and Cutlass paper Service
Manuals, refer to Changing VTD Components in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
For 1998-2000 Malibu, 1998-99 Cutlass, 1999-2000 Alero and Grand Am information in SI2000,
refer to Passlock Reprogramming Autolearn in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
For 2001-2002 Malibu, Alero and Grand Am, refer to Programming Theft Deterrent System
Components in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
Disclaimer
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Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock Remove/Install Procedure
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install
Procedure
File In Section: 8 Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 63-83-16A
Date: May, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 8C - New Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder Remove/Install Procedure
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
This bulletin is being revised to add an "Important" statement to Step 9 regarding the procedure if
an ignition key or key code is not available. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 63-83-16
(Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical).
This bulletin is being issued to add the remove/install procedure for the ignition switch lock cylinder
in Section 8C of the Service Manual (GMP/97-LN-1). Please insert the following information in the
instrument Panel, Gauges and Console section of the Service Manual.
IGNITION SWITCH LOCK CYLINDER (Refer to Figure 26 in the Service Manual)
The ignition key is needed to properly remove the ignition switch lock cylinder from the ignition
switch. If the ignition key or key code is unavailable, follow the instructions in the "Important"
statement after Step 9 of "Remove or Disconnect".
Procedure
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable.
2. Disable SIR system. Refer to Disabling SIR in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
3. Ignition switch trim ring.
4. Accessory trim plate. Refer to Accessory Trim Plate in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
5. Upper steering column cover. Refer to Steering Column Covers in Steering Wheel and Column On Vehicle Service in Section 3F of the Service Manual.
6. Instrument cluster trim plate. Refer to Cluster Trim Plate in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
7. Instrument cluster. Refer to Instrument Panel Cluster in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
8. Ignition switch assembly bolts.
9. Ignition switch assembly electrical connectors.
Important:
If the ignition key or key code is not available or the ignition cylinder will not rotate, use the
following procedure to drill a hole in the switch and remove the cylinder. It "Pass Lock" equipped,
there is no need to disconnect prior to cylinder removal.
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Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock Remove/Install Procedure > Page 1366
a. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 1.
b. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
c. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
d. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
e. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch body and check the cylinder code, see Figure
2.
f. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
g. Install the new cylinder by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the "ON" position and
pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release button slightly as it
passes by the 9/32' hole previously drilled in the housing.
10. Ignition lock cable from ignition switch assembly.
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11. Ignition switch assembly from vehicle.
12. Insert key into ignition switch cylinder and rotate to the RUN position.
13. Press the cylinder release plunger (located at the 4 o'clock position) on the ignition switch
assembly.
14. Pull cylinder from ignition switch with key.
Install or Connect
1. Cylinder to ignition switch, verify engagement and operation with key.
2. Ignition switch assembly to vehicle.
3. Ignition lock cable to ignition switch assembly, verify engagement.
4. Ignition switch assembly electrical connectors, verify engagement.
5. Ignition switch assembly bolts.
6. Instrument cluster.
7. Instrument cluster trim plate.
8. Upper steering column cover.
9. Accessory trim plate.
10. Ignition switch trim ring.
11. Enable SIR system. Refer to Enabling SIR in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
12. Negative battery cable.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
Cylinder, Ignition Use published
E7200 Lock - R & R or labor operation
Replace time
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Front Of Engine
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Knock Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Knock Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Page 1403
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 1404
Knock Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 1405
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1406
Knock Sensor: Description and Operation
Description
Varying octane levels in today's gasoline may cause detonation in some engines. Detonation is
caused by an uncontrolled explosion (burn) in the combustion chamber. This uncontrolled
explosion could produce a flame front opposite that of the normal flame front produced by the spark
plug. The rattling sound normally associated with detonation is the result of two or more opposing
pressures (flame fronts) colliding within the combustion chamber. Though light detonation is
sometimes considered normal, heavy detonation could result in engine damage.
To control spark knock, a Knock Sensor (KS) system is used. This system is designed to retard
spark timing to reduce spark knock in the engine. This allows the engine to use maximum spark
advance to improve driveability and fuel economy.
^ KS module.
^ Knock sensor.
Operation
The knock sensor detects abnormal vibration (spark knocking) in the engine. The sensor is
mounted in the engine block near the cylinders. The sensors produce an AC output voltage which
increases with the severity of the knock. This signal voltage is input to the PCM. The PCM then
adjusts the Ignition Control (IC) timing to reduce spark knock.
The knock sensor is used to detect engine detonation, allowing the PCM to retard Ignition Control
(IC) spark timing based on the KS signal being received. The knock sensor produces an AC signal
which rides on a 5 volts DC signal supplied by the PCM. The signal amplitude and frequency is
dependent upon the amount of knock being experienced.
The PCM determines whether knock is occurring by comparing the signal level on the KS circuit
with the voltage level on the noise channel. The noise channel allows the PCM to reject any false
knock signal by indicating the amount of normal engine mechanical noise present. Normal engine
noise varies depending on engine speed and load. If the voltage level on the KS noise channel
circuit is below the range considered normal, DTC P0327 will set, indicating a fault in the KS circuit
or one of the knock sensors. If the PCM determines that an abnormal minimum or maximum noise
level is being experienced, a DTC P0326 will set.
The PCM contains a replaceable Knock Sensor (KS) module. The KS module contains the circuitry
that allows the PCM to utilize the KS signal and diagnose the KS sensors and circuitry. If the KS
module is missing or faulty causing a continuous knock condition to be indicated, the PCM will set
DTC P0325.
The scan tool has four data displays available for diagnosing the KS system. The 4 displays are
described as follows:
^ KS Activity is used to monitor the input signal from the knock sensor. This counter will display
Yes while knock is being detected.
^ Knock Retard is the indication of how much the PCM is retarding the spark. The PCM will retard
spark in response to the Knock signal or the Traction Control system Desired Torque signal.
^ KS Noise Channel indicates the current voltage level being monitored on the noise channel.
DTCs P0325, P0326, and P0327 are designed to diagnose the KS module, the knock sensors, and
related wiring, so problems encountered with the KS system should set a DTC. However, if no DTC
was set but the KS system is suspect because detonation was the customer's complaint, refer to
Detonation/Spark Knock in Symptoms. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control
Systems/Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1407
Knock Sensor: Testing and Inspection
The PCM contains a replaceable Knock Sensor (KS) module. The KS module contains the circuitry
that allows the PCM to utilize the KS signal and diagnose the KS sensors and circuitry. If the KS
module is missing or faulty causing a continuous knock condition to be indicated, the PCM will set
DTC P0325.
The scan tool has four data displays available for diagnosing the KS system. The 4 displays are
described as follows:
^ KS Activity is used to monitor the input signal from the knock sensor. This counter will display
Yes while knock is being detected.
^ Knock Retard is the indication of how much the PCM is retarding the spark. The PCM will retard
spark in response to the Knock signal or the Traction Control system Desired Torque signal.
^ KS Noise Channel indicates the current voltage level being monitored on the noise channel.
DTCs P0325, P0326, and P0327 are designed to diagnose the KS module, the knock sensors, and
related wiring, so problems encountered with the KS system should set a DTC. However, if no DTC
was set but the KS system is suspect because detonation was the customer's complaint, refer to
Detonation/Spark Knock in Symptoms. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control
Systems/Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1408
Knock Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise the vehicle. 3. Remove the knock sensor wiring
harness connector from knock sensor. 4. Remove the knock sensor from engine block.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
NOTE: Do Not apply thread sealant to sensor threads. The sensor is coated at factory and applying
additional sealant will affect the sensors ability to detect detonation.
1. Install the knock sensor into engine block. 2. Install the knock sensor wiring harness connector
to the knock sensor. 3. Lower the vehicle. 4. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Seat Occupant
Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Restraints - Passenger Presence System Information
Seat Occupant Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Restraints - Passenger Presence System
Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 06-08-50-009F
Date: December 23, 2010
Subject: Information on Passenger Presence Sensing System (PPS or PSS) Concerns With
Custom Upholstery, Accessory Seat Heaters or Other Comfort Enhancing Devices
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks Equipped with Passenger Presence Sensing
System
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 06-08-50-009E (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Concerns About Safety and Alterations to the Front Passenger Seat
Important ON A GM VEHICLE EQUIPPED WITH A PASSENGER SENSING SYSTEM, USE THE
SEAT COVERS AND OTHER SEAT-RELATED EQUIPMENT AS RELEASED BY GM FOR THAT
VEHICLE. DO NOT ALTER THE SEAT COVERS OR SEAT-RELATED EQUIPMENT. ANY
ALTERATIONS TO SEAT COVERS OR GM ACCESSORIES DEFEATS THE INTENDED DESIGN
OF THE SYSTEM. GM WILL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY PROBLEMS CAUSED BY USE OF
SUCH IMPROPER SEAT ALTERATIONS, INCLUDING ANY WARRANTY REPAIRS INCURRED.
The front passenger seat in many GM vehicles is equipped with a passenger sensing system that
will turn off the right front passenger's frontal airbag under certain conditions, such as when an
infant or child seat is present. In some vehicles, the passenger sensing system will also turn off the
right front passenger's seat mounted side impact airbag. For the system to function properly,
sensors are used in the seat to detect the presence of a properly-seated occupant. The passenger
sensing system may not operate properly if the original seat trim is replaced (1) by non-GM covers,
upholstery or trim, or (2) by GM covers, upholstery or trim designed for a different vehicle or (3) by
GM covers, upholstery or trim that has been altered by a trim shop, or (4) if any object, such as an
aftermarket seat heater or a comfort enhancing pad or device is installed under the seat fabric or
between the occupant and the seat fabric.
Aftermarket Seat Heaters, Custom Upholstery, and Comfort Enhancing Pads or Devices
Important ON A GM VEHICLE EQUIPPED WITH A PASSENGER SENSING SYSTEM, USE ONLY
SEAT COVERS AND OTHER SEAT-RELATED EQUIPMENT RELEASED AS GM
ACCESSORIES FOR THAT VEHICLE. DO NOT USE ANY OTHER TYPE OF SEAT COVERS OR
SEAT-RELATED EQUIPMENT, OR GM ACCESSORIES RELEASED FOR OTHER VEHICLE
APPLICATIONS. GM WILL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY PROBLEMS CAUSED BY USE OF SUCH
IMPROPER SEAT ACCESSORIES, INCLUDING ANY WARRANTY REPAIRS MADE
NECESSARY BY SUCH USE.
Many types of aftermarket accessories are available to customers, upfitting shops, and dealers.
Some of these devices sit on top of, or are Velcro(R) strapped to the seat while others such as seat
heaters are installed under the seat fabric. Additionally, seat covers made of leather or other
materials may have different padding thickness installed that could prevent the Passenger Sensing
System from functioning properly. Never alter the vehicle seats. Never add pads or other devices to
the seat cushion, as this may interfere with the operation of the Passenger Sensing System and
either prevent proper deployment of the passenger airbag or prevent proper suppression of the
passenger air bag.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Seat Sensor/Switch
> Component Information > Diagrams
Seat Belt Switch
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-008 >
Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition
Technical Service Bulletin # 99-08-49-008 Date: 990701
Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-49-008
Date: July, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Chime Sounds When Key Is Removed from Ignition, Intermittent Operation of Power Door
Locks, Keyless Entry, Steering Column Lock or Memory Seats (Inspect/Replace Lock Cylinder
Actuator or Lock Cylinder Assembly)
Models: 1991-99 Chevrolet Corvette, Malibu 1997-99 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1998-99 Oldsmobile
Intrigue 1999 Oldsmobile Alero 1999 Pontiac Grand Am
This Bulletin is being revised to add additional symptoms and conditions. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 83-83-20 (Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical)
Condition Some customers may comment that the key warning chime continues to sound after the
ignition key has been removed from the ignition lock cylinder. They may also comment that the
automatic power door locks will not lock the doors when the key is removed from the ignition lock
cylinder and the warning chime is sounding.
On Corvette models, some customers may comment that there is an intermittent operation of the
passive keyless entry system, the steering column lock, or the retracting feature of the memory
power seat option when exiting the vehicle.
Cause The actuator, located in the ignition lock cylinder, may be sticking after the key is removed.
Correction Remove the ignition lock cylinder for the instrument panel using the following
procedures. Once removed from the vehicle, use the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test
Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to determine the correct repair procedure.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description Application
All Models
12450483 Actuator Listed Above
12458191 Lock Service Package All, (Except Corvette
12458190 Lock Service Package Corvette Only
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-008 >
Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 1427
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Malibu and Cutlass Models
Malibu and Cutlass Models - Lock Cylinder
Removal
Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
dis8ble the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the lock cylinder bezel.
3. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
5. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
6. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-008 >
Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 1428
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Malibu and Cutlass Models - Lock Cylinder
Installation
Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the lock cylinder bezel.
5. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
6. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Alero and Grand AM Models
Alero and Grand Am Models - Lock Cylinder
Removal
Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the shift knob/handle (Alero Only).
3. Remove the console shifter trim plate (Alero Only). See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the lock cylinder bezel.
5. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
7. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
8. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Alero and Grand Am Models - Lock Cylinder
Installation
Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, Insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the lock cylinder bezel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-008 >
Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 1429
5. Install the console shifter trim plate (Alero Only). See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Install the shift knob/handle (Alero Only).
7. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
8. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Intrigue Models
Intrigue Models - Lock Cylinder Removal Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SiR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SiR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the left side instrument panel insulator. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section
of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
3. Remove the console trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
5. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
6. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
7. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Intrigue Models - Lock Cylinder Installation Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the console trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
5. Install the left side instrument panel insulator. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of
Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
7. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Corvette Models
Corvette Models - Lock Cylinder Removal Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the console. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in
the Service Manual.
3. Remove the instrument panel accessory trim plate. See the instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the lock cylinder.
5. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-008 >
Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 1430
6. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Corvette Models - Lock Cylinder Installation Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Connect the electrical connector to the lock cylinder.
3. Install the instrument panel accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the console. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in
the Service Manual.
5. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
Actuator Type Identification
With the key installed, hold the lock cylinder as shown in Figure 2 to determine what type of
actuator is being used. FOLLOW THE APPROPRIATE TEST PROCEDURE FOR THE TYPE OF
ACTUATOR BEING USED.
Test Procedure - New and Early Design Actuator
Test Procedure
Early Design Actuator:
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-008 >
Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 1431
1. With the lock cylinder held vertically as shown in Figure 3, remove the key from the lock. When
the key is removed, the actuator should drop down in the lock cylinder approximately 4-5 mm (3/16
in). Repeat this step several times.
2. If the EARLY design actuator in the lock cylinder does NOT drop down, replace the complete
lock assembly.
3. If the EARLY design actuator in the lock cylinder DOES drop down, replace the actuator with the
new design actuator P/N 12450483.
To replace the actuator, install the key in the lock and grasp the end of the actuator with a pair of
small long nose (needle nose) pliers and pull firmly. With the key still in the lock, install the new
actuator by aligning the actuator shaft with the opening in the lock cylinder and pushing the
actuator into place. Verify the correct actuator operation by performing Step 1 again.
Important:
After installing a new actuator, correct actuator operation must be confirmed.
New Design Actuator:
1. With the lock cylinder held vertically as shown in Figure 3, remove the key from the lock. When
the key is removed, the actuator should drop down in the lock cylinder approximately 4-5 mm (3/16
in). Repeat this step several times.
2. If the NEW design actuator in the lock cylinder does NOT drop down, replace the lock cylinder
assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-01-09 > Oct
> 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
Technical Service Bulletin # 73-01-09 Date: 971001
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 73-01-09
Date: October, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tumblers for Cylinder Recoding, Revised Repair Procedures for Inoperative Ignition
Cylinders (Seized/Won't Rotate), Labor Operation/Time Allowances
Models: 1995-97 Buick Skylark, Riviera 1995-97 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997 Chevrolet Corvette,
Malibu, Venture 1995-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora, Cutlass, Silhouette
1995-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T Models 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC G, M/L Vans 1996-97
Oldsmobile Bravada
The information in this bulletin concerns new designed tumblers for recoding lock cylinders that use
double sided reversible keys, revised procedures for servicing ignition lock cylinders that are seized
or not able to rotate and revised labor time guide information and allowances.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-01-09 > Oct
> 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1436
The existing labor operation (E7200) has been changed to include "Add" conditions for cylinders
that will not rotate.
New Tumblers
New tumblers are available from GMSPO for recoding lock cylinders that use double-sided
reversible keys. These new tumblers should be used immediately and information about the
disposition of original tumblers will be provided by GMSPO. Figure 1 shows the new tumbler
profile. The shaded area was part of the original tumbler profile, and is removed on the new
tumblers. The new part numbers for the tumblers are as follows:
Part No. 2852732 = Tumbler # 1
Part No. 2852733 = Tumbler # 2
Part No. 2852734 = Tumbler # 3
Part No. 2852735 = Tumbler # 4
Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
New Procedures For Seized/Won't Rotate Column Mounted Ign. CYL.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-01-09 > Oct
> 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1437
A. On G, J and N Models:
DO NOT REMOVE THE STEERING COLUMN as indicated in the Service Manual procedure.
1. Remove the tilt lever, upper and lower column covers.
2. Drill hole in module housing as indicated in the illustration using a short drill bit (1/8" followed by
9/32") and 90 degree drill motor or go degree drill attachment to break or access the retaining
spring for the lock cylinder button, see Figure 2.
3. Using a pick or needle nose pliers, remove the retaining spring from the hole.
4. Using pliers, grasp and remove the retaining button for the cylinder.
5. Remove the cylinder from the housing.
6. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
7. Install the new cylinder and reinstall the steering column components.
B. On U, W, and light duty trucks, follow the Service Manual procedure for keys missing, or
cylinders won't rotate.
Procedure: Instrument Panel Mounted Switches
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-01-09 > Oct
> 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1438
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 01-08-49-020 > Dec > 01 > Ignition Lock Cylinder/Switch - Replacement Revision
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Lock Cylinder/Switch Replacement Revision
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 01-08-49-020
Date: December, 2001
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Revised Ignition Lock Cylinder or Ignition Switch Assembly Replacement
Models: 1996-1998 Buick Skylark 1997-2002 Chevrolet Malibu 1996-1998 Oldsmobile Achieva
1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999-2002 Oldsmobile Alero 1996-2002 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin is being issued to revise the Lock Cylinder Replacement procedure and the Ignition
Switch Assembly Replacement procedure in the Steering Wheel and Column or Instrument Panel,
Gages and Console sub-section of the Service Manual. Please replace the current information in
the Service Manual with the following information.
The following information has been updated within SI2000 for 1998-2002. If you are using a paper
version of this Service Manual, please make a reference to this bulletin on the affected page.
The above mentioned Service Manuals omitted information regarding performing the Passlock
Relearn or Autolearn procedure after an ignition lock cylinder or ignition switch assembly has been
replaced. If you have replaced either of these components, refer to the following procedures:
For 1996-1998 Grand Am, Achieva, Skylark and 1997-98 Malibu and Cutlass paper Service
Manuals, refer to Changing VTD Components in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
For 1998-2000 Malibu, 1998-99 Cutlass, 1999-2000 Alero and Grand Am information in SI2000,
refer to Passlock Reprogramming Autolearn in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
For 2001-2002 Malibu, Alero and Grand Am, refer to Programming Theft Deterrent System
Components in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition
Technical Service Bulletin # 99-08-49-008 Date: 990701
Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-49-008
Date: July, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Chime Sounds When Key Is Removed from Ignition, Intermittent Operation of Power Door
Locks, Keyless Entry, Steering Column Lock or Memory Seats (Inspect/Replace Lock Cylinder
Actuator or Lock Cylinder Assembly)
Models: 1991-99 Chevrolet Corvette, Malibu 1997-99 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1998-99 Oldsmobile
Intrigue 1999 Oldsmobile Alero 1999 Pontiac Grand Am
This Bulletin is being revised to add additional symptoms and conditions. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 83-83-20 (Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical)
Condition Some customers may comment that the key warning chime continues to sound after the
ignition key has been removed from the ignition lock cylinder. They may also comment that the
automatic power door locks will not lock the doors when the key is removed from the ignition lock
cylinder and the warning chime is sounding.
On Corvette models, some customers may comment that there is an intermittent operation of the
passive keyless entry system, the steering column lock, or the retracting feature of the memory
power seat option when exiting the vehicle.
Cause The actuator, located in the ignition lock cylinder, may be sticking after the key is removed.
Correction Remove the ignition lock cylinder for the instrument panel using the following
procedures. Once removed from the vehicle, use the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test
Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to determine the correct repair procedure.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description Application
All Models
12450483 Actuator Listed Above
12458191 Lock Service Package All, (Except Corvette
12458190 Lock Service Package Corvette Only
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page
1448
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Malibu and Cutlass Models
Malibu and Cutlass Models - Lock Cylinder
Removal
Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
dis8ble the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the lock cylinder bezel.
3. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
5. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
6. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page
1449
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Malibu and Cutlass Models - Lock Cylinder
Installation
Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the lock cylinder bezel.
5. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
6. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Alero and Grand AM Models
Alero and Grand Am Models - Lock Cylinder
Removal
Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the shift knob/handle (Alero Only).
3. Remove the console shifter trim plate (Alero Only). See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the lock cylinder bezel.
5. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
7. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
8. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Alero and Grand Am Models - Lock Cylinder
Installation
Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, Insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the lock cylinder bezel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page
1450
5. Install the console shifter trim plate (Alero Only). See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Install the shift knob/handle (Alero Only).
7. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
8. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Intrigue Models
Intrigue Models - Lock Cylinder Removal Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SiR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SiR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the left side instrument panel insulator. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section
of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
3. Remove the console trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
5. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
6. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
7. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Intrigue Models - Lock Cylinder Installation Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the console trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
5. Install the left side instrument panel insulator. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of
Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
7. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Corvette Models
Corvette Models - Lock Cylinder Removal Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the console. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in
the Service Manual.
3. Remove the instrument panel accessory trim plate. See the instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the lock cylinder.
5. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page
1451
6. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Corvette Models - Lock Cylinder Installation Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Connect the electrical connector to the lock cylinder.
3. Install the instrument panel accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the console. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in
the Service Manual.
5. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
Actuator Type Identification
With the key installed, hold the lock cylinder as shown in Figure 2 to determine what type of
actuator is being used. FOLLOW THE APPROPRIATE TEST PROCEDURE FOR THE TYPE OF
ACTUATOR BEING USED.
Test Procedure - New and Early Design Actuator
Test Procedure
Early Design Actuator:
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page
1452
1. With the lock cylinder held vertically as shown in Figure 3, remove the key from the lock. When
the key is removed, the actuator should drop down in the lock cylinder approximately 4-5 mm (3/16
in). Repeat this step several times.
2. If the EARLY design actuator in the lock cylinder does NOT drop down, replace the complete
lock assembly.
3. If the EARLY design actuator in the lock cylinder DOES drop down, replace the actuator with the
new design actuator P/N 12450483.
To replace the actuator, install the key in the lock and grasp the end of the actuator with a pair of
small long nose (needle nose) pliers and pull firmly. With the key still in the lock, install the new
actuator by aligning the actuator shaft with the opening in the lock cylinder and pushing the
actuator into place. Verify the correct actuator operation by performing Step 1 again.
Important:
After installing a new actuator, correct actuator operation must be confirmed.
New Design Actuator:
1. With the lock cylinder held vertically as shown in Figure 3, remove the key from the lock. When
the key is removed, the actuator should drop down in the lock cylinder approximately 4-5 mm (3/16
in). Repeat this step several times.
2. If the NEW design actuator in the lock cylinder does NOT drop down, replace the lock cylinder
assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
Technical Service Bulletin # 73-01-09 Date: 971001
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 73-01-09
Date: October, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tumblers for Cylinder Recoding, Revised Repair Procedures for Inoperative Ignition
Cylinders (Seized/Won't Rotate), Labor Operation/Time Allowances
Models: 1995-97 Buick Skylark, Riviera 1995-97 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997 Chevrolet Corvette,
Malibu, Venture 1995-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora, Cutlass, Silhouette
1995-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T Models 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC G, M/L Vans 1996-97
Oldsmobile Bravada
The information in this bulletin concerns new designed tumblers for recoding lock cylinders that use
double sided reversible keys, revised procedures for servicing ignition lock cylinders that are seized
or not able to rotate and revised labor time guide information and allowances.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1457
The existing labor operation (E7200) has been changed to include "Add" conditions for cylinders
that will not rotate.
New Tumblers
New tumblers are available from GMSPO for recoding lock cylinders that use double-sided
reversible keys. These new tumblers should be used immediately and information about the
disposition of original tumblers will be provided by GMSPO. Figure 1 shows the new tumbler
profile. The shaded area was part of the original tumbler profile, and is removed on the new
tumblers. The new part numbers for the tumblers are as follows:
Part No. 2852732 = Tumbler # 1
Part No. 2852733 = Tumbler # 2
Part No. 2852734 = Tumbler # 3
Part No. 2852735 = Tumbler # 4
Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
New Procedures For Seized/Won't Rotate Column Mounted Ign. CYL.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1458
A. On G, J and N Models:
DO NOT REMOVE THE STEERING COLUMN as indicated in the Service Manual procedure.
1. Remove the tilt lever, upper and lower column covers.
2. Drill hole in module housing as indicated in the illustration using a short drill bit (1/8" followed by
9/32") and 90 degree drill motor or go degree drill attachment to break or access the retaining
spring for the lock cylinder button, see Figure 2.
3. Using a pick or needle nose pliers, remove the retaining spring from the hole.
4. Using pliers, grasp and remove the retaining button for the cylinder.
5. Remove the cylinder from the housing.
6. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
7. Install the new cylinder and reinstall the steering column components.
B. On U, W, and light duty trucks, follow the Service Manual procedure for keys missing, or
cylinders won't rotate.
Procedure: Instrument Panel Mounted Switches
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1459
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install Procedure
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install
Procedure
File In Section: 8 Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 63-83-16A
Date: May, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 8C - New Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder Remove/Install Procedure
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
This bulletin is being revised to add an "Important" statement to Step 9 regarding the procedure if
an ignition key or key code is not available. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 63-83-16
(Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical).
This bulletin is being issued to add the remove/install procedure for the ignition switch lock cylinder
in Section 8C of the Service Manual (GMP/97-LN-1). Please insert the following information in the
instrument Panel, Gauges and Console section of the Service Manual.
IGNITION SWITCH LOCK CYLINDER (Refer to Figure 26 in the Service Manual)
The ignition key is needed to properly remove the ignition switch lock cylinder from the ignition
switch. If the ignition key or key code is unavailable, follow the instructions in the "Important"
statement after Step 9 of "Remove or Disconnect".
Procedure
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable.
2. Disable SIR system. Refer to Disabling SIR in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
3. Ignition switch trim ring.
4. Accessory trim plate. Refer to Accessory Trim Plate in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
5. Upper steering column cover. Refer to Steering Column Covers in Steering Wheel and Column On Vehicle Service in Section 3F of the Service Manual.
6. Instrument cluster trim plate. Refer to Cluster Trim Plate in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
7. Instrument cluster. Refer to Instrument Panel Cluster in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
8. Ignition switch assembly bolts.
9. Ignition switch assembly electrical connectors.
Important:
If the ignition key or key code is not available or the ignition cylinder will not rotate, use the
following procedure to drill a hole in the switch and remove the cylinder. It "Pass Lock" equipped,
there is no need to disconnect prior to cylinder removal.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install Procedure > Page 1464
a. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 1.
b. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
c. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
d. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
e. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch body and check the cylinder code, see Figure
2.
f. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
g. Install the new cylinder by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the "ON" position and
pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release button slightly as it
passes by the 9/32' hole previously drilled in the housing.
10. Ignition lock cable from ignition switch assembly.
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Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install Procedure > Page 1465
11. Ignition switch assembly from vehicle.
12. Insert key into ignition switch cylinder and rotate to the RUN position.
13. Press the cylinder release plunger (located at the 4 o'clock position) on the ignition switch
assembly.
14. Pull cylinder from ignition switch with key.
Install or Connect
1. Cylinder to ignition switch, verify engagement and operation with key.
2. Ignition switch assembly to vehicle.
3. Ignition lock cable to ignition switch assembly, verify engagement.
4. Ignition switch assembly electrical connectors, verify engagement.
5. Ignition switch assembly bolts.
6. Instrument cluster.
7. Instrument cluster trim plate.
8. Upper steering column cover.
9. Accessory trim plate.
10. Ignition switch trim ring.
11. Enable SIR system. Refer to Enabling SIR in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
12. Negative battery cable.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
Cylinder, Ignition Use published
E7200 Lock - R & R or labor operation
Replace time
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Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 01-08-49-020 > Dec > 01 > Ignition Lock Cylinder/Switch - Replacement Revision
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Lock Cylinder/Switch Replacement Revision
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 01-08-49-020
Date: December, 2001
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Revised Ignition Lock Cylinder or Ignition Switch Assembly Replacement
Models: 1996-1998 Buick Skylark 1997-2002 Chevrolet Malibu 1996-1998 Oldsmobile Achieva
1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999-2002 Oldsmobile Alero 1996-2002 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin is being issued to revise the Lock Cylinder Replacement procedure and the Ignition
Switch Assembly Replacement procedure in the Steering Wheel and Column or Instrument Panel,
Gages and Console sub-section of the Service Manual. Please replace the current information in
the Service Manual with the following information.
The following information has been updated within SI2000 for 1998-2002. If you are using a paper
version of this Service Manual, please make a reference to this bulletin on the affected page.
The above mentioned Service Manuals omitted information regarding performing the Passlock
Relearn or Autolearn procedure after an ignition lock cylinder or ignition switch assembly has been
replaced. If you have replaced either of these components, refer to the following procedures:
For 1996-1998 Grand Am, Achieva, Skylark and 1997-98 Malibu and Cutlass paper Service
Manuals, refer to Changing VTD Components in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
For 1998-2000 Malibu, 1998-99 Cutlass, 1999-2000 Alero and Grand Am information in SI2000,
refer to Passlock Reprogramming Autolearn in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
For 2001-2002 Malibu, Alero and Grand Am, refer to Programming Theft Deterrent System
Components in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install Procedure
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install
Procedure
File In Section: 8 Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 63-83-16A
Date: May, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 8C - New Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder Remove/Install Procedure
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
This bulletin is being revised to add an "Important" statement to Step 9 regarding the procedure if
an ignition key or key code is not available. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 63-83-16
(Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical).
This bulletin is being issued to add the remove/install procedure for the ignition switch lock cylinder
in Section 8C of the Service Manual (GMP/97-LN-1). Please insert the following information in the
instrument Panel, Gauges and Console section of the Service Manual.
IGNITION SWITCH LOCK CYLINDER (Refer to Figure 26 in the Service Manual)
The ignition key is needed to properly remove the ignition switch lock cylinder from the ignition
switch. If the ignition key or key code is unavailable, follow the instructions in the "Important"
statement after Step 9 of "Remove or Disconnect".
Procedure
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable.
2. Disable SIR system. Refer to Disabling SIR in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
3. Ignition switch trim ring.
4. Accessory trim plate. Refer to Accessory Trim Plate in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
5. Upper steering column cover. Refer to Steering Column Covers in Steering Wheel and Column On Vehicle Service in Section 3F of the Service Manual.
6. Instrument cluster trim plate. Refer to Cluster Trim Plate in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
7. Instrument cluster. Refer to Instrument Panel Cluster in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
8. Ignition switch assembly bolts.
9. Ignition switch assembly electrical connectors.
Important:
If the ignition key or key code is not available or the ignition cylinder will not rotate, use the
following procedure to drill a hole in the switch and remove the cylinder. It "Pass Lock" equipped,
there is no need to disconnect prior to cylinder removal.
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Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install Procedure > Page 1475
a. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 1.
b. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
c. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
d. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
e. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch body and check the cylinder code, see Figure
2.
f. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
g. Install the new cylinder by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the "ON" position and
pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release button slightly as it
passes by the 9/32' hole previously drilled in the housing.
10. Ignition lock cable from ignition switch assembly.
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11. Ignition switch assembly from vehicle.
12. Insert key into ignition switch cylinder and rotate to the RUN position.
13. Press the cylinder release plunger (located at the 4 o'clock position) on the ignition switch
assembly.
14. Pull cylinder from ignition switch with key.
Install or Connect
1. Cylinder to ignition switch, verify engagement and operation with key.
2. Ignition switch assembly to vehicle.
3. Ignition lock cable to ignition switch assembly, verify engagement.
4. Ignition switch assembly electrical connectors, verify engagement.
5. Ignition switch assembly bolts.
6. Instrument cluster.
7. Instrument cluster trim plate.
8. Upper steering column cover.
9. Accessory trim plate.
10. Ignition switch trim ring.
11. Enable SIR system. Refer to Enabling SIR in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
12. Negative battery cable.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
Cylinder, Ignition Use published
E7200 Lock - R & R or labor operation
Replace time
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Neutral Safety Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1481
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1482
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1485
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1486
Neutral Safety Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1490
insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1491
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1508
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1509
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1510
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1511
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Brake Switch - TCC > Component Information > Description and Operation
Brake Switch - TCC: Description and Operation
The TCC brake switch signal indicates when the brake pedal is applied. The TCC brake switch
information is used by the PCM mainly to control the Transaxle torque converter clutch. Refer to
Automatic Transmission/Transaxle diagnosis for a complete description and TCC brake switch
diagnosis.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove negative battery cable. 2. Remove transaxle case side cover. 3. Remove pressure
switch assembly (6 bolts).
IMPORTANT: Inspect the O-rings for the pressure switch assembly for any damage.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the pressure switch assembly making sure all O-rings are in place. 2. Torque the 6 bolts
holding the pressure switch assembly to 12 Nm (9 ft. lbs.). 3. Install the transaxle case side cover.
4. Connect the negative battery cable. 5. Refill transaxle with fluid to proper level. Refer to 4T40E
OIL LEVEL CHECKING AND FILL PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON > Page 1528
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON > Page 1529
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift
Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift
Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 1535
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift
Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 1536
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
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and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Page 1537
Valid Input Combinations
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > C1
Transaxle Range Switch: C1
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 1540
Transaxle Range Switch: C2
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and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1541
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Description and Operation
Valid Input Combinations
DESCRIPTION
The Transaxle Range Switch is part of the Transaxle Park/Neutral Position (PNP) switch mounted
on the transaxle manual shaft. The 4 inputs from the transaxle range switch indicate to the PCM
which position is selected by the Transaxle selector lever. This information is used for transmission
shift control, ignition timing, EVAP canister purge, EGR and Idle Air Control (IAC) valve operation.
The combination of the four transaxle range input states determine the PCM commanded shift
pattern.
The input voltage level at the PCM is high (B+) when the transaxle range switch is open and low
when the switch is closed to ground. The state of each input is represented on the scan tool as
X=high voltage level, O=low voltage level. The four parameters represent transaxle range switch
Parity, A, B, and C inputs respectively.
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and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1542
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
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and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1543
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1544
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift linkage. 3. Electrical connector. 4. Mounting bolts. 5. Switch
assembly.
REPLACEMENT - USING OLD SWITCH
Install Or Connect 1. Place shift shaft in NEUTRAL. 2. Align flats of shift shaft with switch. 3.
Mounting bolts, loosely. 4. Insert J 41545 and rotate switch until tool drops into position.
Tighten Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Remove Or Disconnect 1. J 41545.
IMPORTANT: After switch adjustment, verify that engine will only start in PARK or NEUTRAL. If engine will start
in any other position, readjust switch.
REPLACEMENT - USING NEW SWITCH
Install Or Connect 1. Place shift shaft in NEUTRAL. 2. Align flats of shift shaft to flats in switch and
install switch assembly. 3. Mounting bolts. 4. Insert tool J 41545 and rotate switch until tool drops
into position.
Tighten Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Important: After switch installation verify that engine will only start in PARK or NEUTRAL. If engine will start in
any other position, readjust switch using Replacement - Using Old Switch procedure.
Adjust 1. Place transaxle control shifter assembly in the NEUTRAL notch in detent plate. 2. Loosen
switch attaching bolts. 3. Rotate switch on shifter assembly to align J 41545.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1545
Tighten Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
4. Remove J 41545.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1550
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1551
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1552
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1553
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1554
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1555
Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1556
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Information and Instructions > Page 1570
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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Information and Instructions > Page 1571
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Information and Instructions > Page 1572
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1573
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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Information and Instructions > Page 1574
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1575
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1576
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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Information and Instructions > Page 1577
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Information and Instructions > Page 1578
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Information and Instructions > Page 1579
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Information and Instructions > Page 1580
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1581
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1582
Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Description and Operation
Description
Description
The Transaxle Fluid Temperature (TFT) sensor is a thermistor which changes value based on the
temperature of the transaxle fluid. A high transaxle fluid temperature may cause the vehicle to
operate in "Hot Mode." While in "Hot Mode," shift points may be altered, 4th gear disabled, and
Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) forced ON in 2nd gear.
A failure in the TFT sensor or associated wiring should cause DTC P0712 or P0713 to set. In this
case, engine coolant temperature will be substituted for the TFT sensor value, and the transaxle
will operate normally. Refer to Automatic Transmission/Transaxle Diagnosis for a complete
description of the TFT sensor.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Window Switch Connector, LR
LR Door (RR Similar)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Window Switch Connector, LR > Page 1588
RF Door
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Window Switch Connector, LR > Page 1589
LF Door
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > LF
Power Window Switch: Diagrams LF
LF Power Window Switch: C1
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > LF > Page 1592
LF Power Window Switch: C2
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > LF > Page 1593
LR Power Window Switch
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > LF > Page 1594
RF Power Window Switch
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > LF > Page 1595
RR Power Window Switch
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Service and Repair > Door Handle Bezel Replacement
Power Window Switch: Service and Repair Door Handle Bezel Replacement
DOOR HANDLE BEZEL REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the door handle bezel screw (1) from the handle bezel(2). 2. Remove the power door
lock switch, if equipped.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the power door lock switch, if equipped.
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
2. Install the door handle bezel screw (1) to the door handle bezel (2).
Tighten Tighten the door handle bezel screw to 2 Nm (20 lb in).
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Power Window Switch: Service and Repair Power Accessory Switch Panel Replacement
POWER ACCESSORY SWITCH PANEL REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the power accessory window switch panel (3)
from the door (5) by prying the front of the switch with a flat bladed tool. 3. Disconnect the electrical
connectors (4) from the switch (3).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Connect the electrical connector (4) to the switch (3). 2. Install the switch (3) to the door (5). 3.
Ensure the unit is retained. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Power Window Switch: Service and Repair Trim Panel Insert Replacement - Front Door
TRIM PANEL INSERT REPLACEMENT - FRONT DOOR
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Push the lower front corner rearward in order to disengage the hidden plastic tab. 2. Push the
lower rear corner forward in order to disengage the hidden plastic tab. 3. Pull inward in order to
disengage the top clip. 4. Remove the front door upper trim panel (1) insert.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the front door upper trim panel (1) insert. 2. Insert the tabs to the retainers. 3. Apply
pressure in order to secure the panel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Wiper and Washer Systems > Washer
Fluid Level Switch > Component Information > Locations
Inside LF Fender
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams
Wiper Switch Assembly
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1607
Wiper Switch: Service and Repair
Since the Turn Signal Switch and Wiper Switch are part of the Steering Column, refer to
STEERING COLUMN UNIT REPAIR for procedures and additional information. You may also need
to refer to this area to remove other Steering Column components for access.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications
Alignment: Technical Service Bulletins Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Bulletin No.: 05-03-07-009C
Date: December 09, 2010
Subject: Wheel Alignment Specifications, Requirements and Recommendations for GM Vehicles
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being extensively revised to provide technicians and warranty
administrators with an all inclusive guide for wheel alignments. PLEASE FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF
WITH THESE UPDATES BEFORE PERFORMING YOUR NEXT GM WHEEL ALIGNMENT
SERVICE. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-03-07-009B (Section 03 - Suspension).
Purpose
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide retail, wholesale and fleet personnel with General Motors'
warranty service requirements and recommendations for customer concerns related to wheel
alignment. For your convenience, this bulletin updates and centralizes all of GM's Standard Wheel
Alignment Service Procedures, Policy Guidelines and bulletins on wheel alignment warranty
service.
Important PLEASE FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF WITH THESE UPDATES BEFORE PERFORMING
YOUR NEXT GM WHEEL ALIGNMENT SERVICE.
The following five (5) key steps are a summary of this bulletin and are REQUIRED in completing a
successful wheel alignment service.
1. Verify the vehicle is in an Original Equipment condition for curb weight, tires, wheels, suspension
and steering configurations. Vehicles
modified in any of these areas are not covered for wheel alignment warranty.
2. Review the customer concern relative to "Normal Operation" definitions. 3. Verify that vehicle is
within the "Mileage Policy" range. 4. Document wheel alignment warranty claims appropriately for
labor operations E2000 and E2020.
The following information must be documented or attached to the repair order:
- Customer concern in detail
- What corrected the customer concern?
- If a wheel alignment is performed:
- Consult SI for proper specifications.
- Document the "Before" AND "After" wheel alignment measurements/settings.
- Completed "Wheel Alignment Repair Order Questionnaire" (form attached to this bulletin)
5. Use the proper wheel alignment equipment (preferred with print-out capability), process and the
appropriate calibration maintenance schedules.
Important If it is determined that a wheel alignment is necessary under warranty, use the proper
labor code for the repair. E2000 for Steering Wheel Angle and/or Front Toe set or E2020 for Wheel
Alignment Check/Adjust includes Caster, Camber and Toe set (Wheel alignment labor time for
other component repairs is to be charged to the component that causes a wheel alignment
operation.).
The following flowchart is to help summarize the information detailed in this bulletin and should be
used whenever a wheel alignment is performed.
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Verify Original Equipment Condition of the Vehicle
- Verify that Original Equipment Tires and Wheels or Official GM Accessory Tires and Wheels are
on the vehicle.
- Verify that aftermarket suspension "Lift" or "Lowering" Kits or other suspension alterations have
NOT been done to the vehicle.
- Check for accidental damage to the vehicle; for example, severe pothole or curb impacts, collision
damage that may have affected the wheel alignment of the vehicle; e.g., engine cradles,
suspension control arms, axles, wheels, wheel covers, tires may show evidence of damage/impact.
- Check to be sure vehicle has seen "Normal Use" rather than abuse; e.g., very aggressive driving
may show up by looking at the tires and condition of the vehicle.
- Check for other additional equipment items that may significantly affect vehicle mass such as
large tool boxes, campers, snow plow packages (without the snowplow RPO), etc., especially in
trucks and cutaway/incomplete vehicles. Significant additional mass can affect trim height and
wheel alignment of the vehicle and may necessitate a customer pay wheel alignment when placed
semi-permanently in the vehicle (Upfitter instructions are to realign the vehicle after placement of
these types of items. (This typically applies to trucks and incomplete vehicles that can be upfit with
equipment such as the above.)
Customer Concerns, "Normal Operation" Conditions and "Mileage Policy"
Possible Concerns
The following are typical conditions that may require wheel alignment warranty service:
1. Lead/Pull: defined as "at a constant highway speed on a typical straight road, the amount of
effort required at the steering wheel to maintain the
vehicle's straight heading."
Important Please evaluate for the condition with hands-on the steering wheel. Follow the "Vehicle
Leads/Pulls" diagnostic tree located in SI to determine the cause of a lead/pull concern. Lead/Pull
concerns can be due to road crown or road slope, tires, wheel alignment or even in rare
circumstances a steering gear issue. Lead/pull concerns due to road crown are considered
"Normal Operation" and are NOT a warrantable condition -- the customer should be advised that
this is "Normal Operation."
Important Some customers may comment on a "Lead/Pull" when they hold the steering wheel in a
level condition. If so, this is more likely a "steering wheel angle" concern because the customer is
"steering" the vehicle to obtain a "level" steering wheel.
2. Steering wheel angle to the left or right (counter-clockwise or clockwise, respectively): Defined
as the steering wheel angle (clocking)
deviation from "level" while maintaining a straight heading on a typical straight road.
3. Irregular or Premature tire wear: Slight to very slight "feathering" or "edge" wear on the
shoulders of tires is NOT considered unusual and
should even out with a tire rotation; if the customer is concerned about a "feathering" condition of
the tires, the customer could be advised to rotate the tires earlier than the next scheduled
mileage/maintenance interval (but no later than the next interval). Be sure to understand the
customer's driving habits as this will also heavily influence the tire wear performance; tire wear from
aggressive or abusive driving habits is NOT a warrantable condition.
Important Slight or mild feathering, cupping, edge or heel/toe wear of tire tread shoulders is
"normal" and can show up very early in a tire/vehicle service mileage; in fact, some new tires can
show evidence of feathering from the factory. These issues do NOT affect the overall performance
and tread life of the tire. Dealer personnel should always check the customer's maintenance
records to ensure that tire inflation pressure is being maintained to placard and that the tires are
being rotated (modified-X pattern) at the proper mileage intervals. Wheel alignments are NOT to be
performed for the types of "Normal" Tire Feathering shown in Figures 1-4 below.
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Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications > Page 1614
Figure 1: Full Tread View - "NORMAL" Tire "Feathering" Wear on the Shoulder/Adjacent/Center
Ribs
Figure 2: Tire Shoulder View Example 1 - "NORMAL" Tire "Feathering" Wear on the Shoulder
Figure 3: Tire Shoulder View Example 2 - "NORMAL" Tire "Feathering" Wear
Figure 4: Detail Side View of Tire Shoulder Area - "NORMAL" Tire "Feathering" Wear
Important When a wheel alignment is deemed necessary for tire wear, be sure to document on the
repair order, in as much detail as possible, the severity and type of tire wear (e.g., severe center
wear or severe inside or outside shoulder wear) and the position of the tire on the vehicle (RF, LF,
LR, RR). Please note the customer's concern with the wear such as, noise, appearance, wear life,
etc. A field product report with pictures of the tire wear condition is recommended. Refer to
Corporate Bulletin Number 02-00-89-002J and #07-00-89-036C.
4. Other repairs that affect wheel alignment; e.g., certain component replacement such as
suspension control arm replacement, engine cradle
adjustment/replace, steering gear replacement, steering tie rod replace, suspension strut/shock,
steering knuckle, etc. may require a wheel alignment.
Important If other components or repairs are identified as affecting the wheel alignment, policy calls
for the wheel alignment labor time to be charged to the replaced/repaired component's labor
operation time rather than the wheel alignment labor operations.
Important Vibration type customer concerns are generally NOT due to wheel alignment except in
the rare cases; e.g., extreme diagonal wear across the tread. In general, wheel alignments are
NOT to be performed as an investigation/correction for vibration concerns.
"Normal Operation" Conditions
Vehicle Lead/Pull Due to Road Crown or Slope:
As part of "Normal Operation," vehicles will follow side-to-side or left to right road crown or slope.
Be sure to verify from the customer the types of roads they are driving as they may not recognize
the influence of road crown on vehicle lead/pull and steering wheel angle. If a vehicle requires
significant steering effort to prevent it from "climbing" the road crown there may be an issue to be
looked into further.
Important
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A wheel alignment will generally NOT correct vehicles that follow the road crown since this is within
"Normal Operation."
Mileage Policy
The following mileage policy applies for E2020 and E2000 labor operations: Note
Wheel Alignment is NOT covered under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty for Express and Savana
Cutaway vehicles as these vehicles require Upfitters to set the wheel alignment after completing
the vehicles.
- 0-800 km (0-500 mi): E2000/E2020 claims ONLY allowed with Call Center Authorization. Due to
the tie down during shipping, the vehicle's suspension requires some time to reach normal
operating position. For this reason, new vehicles are generally NOT to be aligned until they have
accumulated at least 800 km (500 mi). A field product report should accompany any claim within
this mileage range.
- 801-12,000 km (501-7,500 mi):
- If a vehicle came from the factory with incorrect alignment settings, any resulting off-angle
steering wheel, lead/pull characteristics or the rare occurrence of excessive tire wear would be
apparent early in the life of the vehicle. The following policy applies:
- Vehicles 100% Factory Set/Measured for Caster/Camber/Toe - Escalade/ESV/EXT,
Tahoe/Suburban, Yukon/XL/Denali, Silverado/Sierra, Express/Savana, Corvette and
Colorado/Canyon: E2000/E2020 Claims: Call Center Authorization Required
- All Vehicles NOT 100% Factory Set/Measured for Caster/Camber/Toe as noted above:
E2000/E2020 Claims: Dealer Service Manager Authorization Required
- 12,001 km and beyond (7,501 miles and beyond): During this period, customers are responsible
for the wheel alignment expense or dealers may provide on a case-by case basis a one-time
customer enthusiasm claim up to 16,000 km (10,000 mi). In the event that a defective component
required the use of the subject labor operations, the identified defective component labor operation
will include the appropriate labor time for a wheel alignment as an add condition to the component
repair.
Important Only one wheel alignment labor operation claim (E2000 or E2020) may be used per VIN.
Warranty Documentation Requirements
When a wheel alignment service has been deemed necessary, the following items will need to be
clearly documented on/with the repair order:
- Customer concern in detail
- What corrected the customer concern?
- If a wheel alignment is performed:
- Consult SI for proper specifications.
- Document the "Before" AND "After" wheel alignment measurements/settings.
- Completed "Wheel Alignment Repair Order Questionnaire" (form attached to this bulletin)
1. Document the customer concern in as much detail as possible on the repair order and in the
warranty administration system. Preferred examples:
- Steering wheel is off angle in the counterclockwise direction by approximately x degrees or
clocking position.
- Vehicle lead/pulls to the right at approximately x-y mph. Vehicle will climb the road crown. Severe,
Moderate or Slight.
- RF and LF tires are wearing on the outside shoulders with severe feathering.
Important In the event of a lead/pull or steering wheel angle concern, please note the direction of
lead/pull (left or right) or direction of steering wheel angle (clockwise or counterclockwise) on the
repair order and within the warranty claim verbatim.
Important In the event of a tire wear concern, please note the position on the vehicle and where the
wear is occurring on the tire; i.e., the RF tire is wearing on the inside shoulder.
2. Document the technician's findings on cause and correction of the issue. Examples:
- Reset LF toe from 0.45 degrees to 0.10 degrees and RF toe from -0.25 degrees to 0.10 degrees
to correct the steering wheel angle from 5 degrees counterclockwise to 0 degrees.
- Reset LF camber from 0.25 degrees to -0.05 degrees to correct the cross-camber condition of
+0.30 degrees to 0.00 degrees on the vehicle.
- Front Sum toe was found to be 0.50 degrees, reset to 0.20 degrees.
3. Print-out the "Before" and "After" wheel alignment measurements/settings and attach them to the
Repair Order or if print-out capability is not
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications > Page 1616
available, measurements may also be clearly and legibly handwritten into the Wheel Alignment
Repair Order Questionnaire attached to this bulletin.
4. Attach the Wheel Alignment Repair Order Questionnaire below along with the print-out of
"Before" and "After" wheel alignment measurements to
the Repair Order and retain for use by GM.
Wheel Alignment Equipment and Process
Wheel alignments must be performed with a quality machine that will give accurate results when
performing checks. "External Reference" (image-based camera technology) is preferred. Please
refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 05-00-89-029B: General Motors Dealership Critical Equipment
Requirements and Recommendations.
Requirements:
- Computerized four wheel alignment system.
- Computer capable of printing before and after alignment reports.
- Computer capable of time and date stamp printout.
- Racking system must have jacking capability
- Racking system must be capable of level to 1.6 mm (1/16 in)
- Appropriate wheel stops and safety certification
- Built-in turn plates and slip plates
- Wheel clamps capable of attaching to 20" or larger wheels
- Racking capable of accepting any GM passenger car or light duty truck
- Operator properly trained and ASE-certified (U.S. only) in wheel alignment
Recommendations:
Racking should have front and rear jacking capability.
Equipment Maintenance and Calibration:
Alignment machines must be regularly calibrated in order to give correct information. Most
manufacturers recommend the following:
- Alignment machines with "internal reference" sensors should be checked (and calibrated, if
necessary) every six months.
- Alignment machines with "external reference" (image-based camera technology) should be
checked (and calibrated, if necessary) once a year.
- Racks must be kept level to within 1.6 mm (1/16 in).
- If any instrument that is part of the alignment machine is dropped or damaged in some way,
check the calibration immediately.
Check with the manufacturer of your specific equipment for their recommended service/calibration
schedule.
Wheel Alignment Process
When performing wheel alignment measurement and/or adjustment, the following steps should be
taken:
Preliminary Steps:
1. Verify that the vehicle has a full tank of fuel (compensate as necessary). 2. Inspect the wheels
and the tires for damage. 3. Inspect the tires for the proper inflation and irregular tire wear. 4.
Inspect the wheel bearings for excessive play. 5. Inspect all suspension and steering parts for
looseness, wear, or damage. 6. Inspect the steering wheel for excessive drag or poor return due to
stiff or rusted linkage or suspension components. 7. Inspect the vehicle trim height. 8. Compensate
for frame angle on targeted vehicles (refer to Wheel Alignment Specifications in SI).
Satisfactory vehicle operation may occur over a wide range of alignment angles. However, if the
wheel alignment angles are not within the range of specifications, adjust the wheel alignment to the
specifications. Refer to Wheel Alignment Specifications in SI. Give consideration to excess loads,
such as tool boxes, sample cases, etc. Follow the wheel alignment equipment manufacturer's
instructions.
Measure/Adjust:
Important Prior to making any adjustments to wheel alignment on a vehicle, technicians must verify
that the wheel alignment specifications loaded into their wheel alignment machine are up-to-date
by comparing these to the wheel alignment specifications for the appropriate model and model year
in SI. Using incorrect and/or outdated specifications may result in unnecessary adjustments,
irregular and/or premature tire wear and repeat customer concerns
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Important When performing adjustments to vehicles requiring a 4-wheel alignment, set the rear
wheel alignment angles first in order to obtain proper front wheel alignment angles.
Perform the following steps in order to measure the front and rear alignment angles:
1. Install the alignment equipment according to the manufacturer's instructions. 2. Jounce the front
and the rear bumpers 3 times prior to checking the wheel alignment. 3. Measure the alignment
angles and record the readings.
If necessary, adjust the wheel alignment to vehicle specification and record the before and after
measurements. Refer to Wheel Alignment Specifications in SI.
Important Technicians must refer to SI for the correct wheel alignment specifications. SI is the only
source of GM wheel alignment specifications that is kept up-to-date throughout the year.
Test drive vehicle to ensure proper repair.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications > Page 1618
Frame Angle Measurement (Express / Savana Only) ........
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications > Page 1619
What corrected the customer concern and was the repair verified?
Please Explain: .............
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Specifications > Vehicle Ride (Trim)
Height Specifications
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Specifications > Vehicle Ride (Trim)
Height Specifications > Page 1622
Alignment: Specifications Alignment Specifications
Cross Camber:*
Alignment .............................................................................................................................................
..................................................................... 0.00° Tolerance .............................................................
....................................................................................................................................................
±1.00°
Cross Caster:
Alignment .............................................................................................................................................
..................................................................... 0.00° Tolerance .............................................................
....................................................................................................................................................
±1.00°
Front Camber:
Alignment .............................................................................................................................................
.................................................................... -0.20° Tolerance .............................................................
....................................................................................................................................................
±1.00°
Front Caster:
Alignment .............................................................................................................................................
................................................................... +4.30° Tolerance .............................................................
....................................................................................................................................................
±1.00°
Individual Toe:**
Alignment .............................................................................................................................................
................................................................... +0.05° Tolerance .............................................................
....................................................................................................................................................
±0.12°
Rear Camber:
Alignment .............................................................................................................................................
.................................................................... -0.40° Tolerance .............................................................
....................................................................................................................................................
±0.50°
Rear Sum Toe:
Alignment .............................................................................................................................................
..................................................................... 0.00° Tolerance .............................................................
....................................................................................................................................................
±0.20°
Rear Thrust Angle:
Alignment .............................................................................................................................................
..................................................................... 0.00° Tolerance .............................................................
....................................................................................................................................................
±0.20°
Sum Toe:
Alignment .............................................................................................................................................
................................................................... +0.10° Tolerance .............................................................
....................................................................................................................................................
±0.25°
* Slight Cross Camber specification differences can be made when servicing vehicle for steering
pull.
** Measure the above Toe angles with steering wheel at level position, visually aligned with
column.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Specifications > Vehicle Ride (Trim)
Height Specifications > Page 1623
Alignment: Specifications Torque Specifications
Strut To Knuckle Nuts ..........................................................................................................................
................................................ 180 Nm (133 ft. lbs.) Tie Rod Jam Nut
................................................................................................................................................... 210°
Rotation After 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.)
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Alignment: Service Precautions
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for the application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener tightening specification and the
joint clamping force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct
tightening sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to
parts and systems.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation > Definition of
Terms
Alignment: Description and Operation Definition of Terms
Camber
Camber is the tilting of the front wheels from the vertical when viewed from the front of the vehicle.
When the wheels tilt outward at the top, the camber is "positive" (+). When the wheels tilt inward at
the top, the camber is "negative" (-). The amount of tilt is measured in degrees from the vertical.
Camber setting will influence directional control and tire wear.
Caster
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation > Definition of
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Caster is the tilting of the front steering axis (at the top) either forward or backward from the
vertical. A backward tilt is "positive" (+) and a forward tilt is "negative" (-). Caster influences
directional control of the steering but does not affect tire wear.
Caster is affected by vehicle height, therefore it is important to keep the body at its designed
height. Overloading the vehicle or a weak or sagging rear spring will affect the caster. When the
rear of the vehicle is lower than its designated trim height, the front suspension moves to a more
"positive" caster. If the rear of the vehicle is higher than its designated trim height, the front
suspension moves to a less "positive" caster.
Toe-In
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation > Definition of
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Toe is a measurement of how much the front of the wheels are turned in or out from a
straight-ahead position. When the wheels are turned in, toe is "positive" (+). When the wheels are
turned out, toe is "negative" (-). The actual amount of toe is normally only a fraction of a degree.
The purpose of toe is to ensure that the wheels roll parallel.
Toe also serves to offset the small deflections of the wheel support system which occurs when the
vehicle is rolling forward. In other words, even when the wheels are set to toe in or out slightly
when the vehicle is standing still, they tend to roll parallel on the road when the vehicle is moving.
Toe affects tire wear.
Thrust Angle
The front wheels aim or steer the vehicle, but the rear wheels control tracking. This tracking action
is relative to thrust angle. Thrust angle is defined as the path that the rear wheels will take. Ideally,
the thrust angle is geometrically aligned with the body centerline.
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Alignment: Description and Operation General Description
Wheel alignment refers to the angular relationship between the wheels, control arms, suspension
and the ground. When measured, the vehicle should have a full fuel tank, no passengers, and with
no other loading or items in the trunk or passengers compartment.
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Alignment: Testing and Inspection
Some degree of torque steer to the right may normally be experienced during heavy throttle
application on some front-wheel-drive vehicles that do not have equal length drive axles. This is
due to the right drive axle being longer than the left axle and associated difference in axle angle.
Vehicles with intermediate shaft assemblies have almost equal length axles.
A difference in axle length results in more torque toe-in effect to the left front wheel. This condition
can be noticed when accelerating from a standing start or at lower speeds. A simple measurement
to determine the degree of torque steer is to place a small piece of tape at the top center of the
steering wheel. Drive the vehicle and note the inches of steering wheel deflection required to steer
the vehicle straight under heavy acceleration. A comparison of like vehicles will then determine if a
particular vehicle has a greater than normal degree of torque steer. The following factors may
cause torque steer to be more apparent on a particular vehicle: ^
Large difference in right and left front tire pressure.
^ A slightly smaller diameter tire on the right front will increase a right torque lead. Inspect front
tires for difference in brand, construction, or size. If the tires appear similar, change the front tires
side to side and re-test the vehicle. Tire and wheel assemblies have the most significant effect on
torque steer correction.
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^ Any looseness in control arm bushings, tie rod assemblies or steering gear mounting which
permits a front wheel to pull forward and toe-in under torque more than the opposite side. A loose
suspension component may also result in an opposite lead on deceleration.
^ High front trim height which would increase drive axle angle.
^ Binding or tight drive axle joint. A tight joint or high front trim height may also exhibit a wobble
condition between 24 and 48 km/h (15 and 30 mph).
^ Incorrect, worn, or loose engine mounts causing adverse drive axle angles.
^ Unequal Engine/Transmission height from the left side to the right side of vehicle. If difference
from side to side is more than 6 mm (17/64 inch), change trim heights by installing a stronger
spring in the side which is lower, or a weaker spring in the side which is shorter than the specified
"Z" heights. Replace only, do not shim engine mounts as this may cause other symptoms.
^ On occasion, side-to-side trim height differences may be the result of a faulty stabilizer shaft. To
check this disconnect the stabilizer links, re-measure trim heights. If the side-to-side difference is
corrected, replace the stabilizer shaft. If there is no change in trim height do not change the
stabilizer shaft. A trim height difference of more than 6 mm (17/64 inch), indicates a possible bent,
stabilizer shaft, attaching links, or a bent suspension component that may need replacement.
The following conditions affect vehicle handling and/or a constant right or left lead separate from
torque steer causes. The existence of one or more of These conditions may compound a torque
steer complaint. ^
Incorrect front-wheel alignment or a rear-wheel alignment condition which would cause the vehicle
to not track straight. A difference in the front wheel to rear wheel measurement compared side to
side may indicate a "dog track" condition or one front wheel ahead of the other due to a
misalignment or other condition. A substantial caster difference is an indication of misalignment or
other condition. Front-wheel caster should be equal or within specifications and camber may be
biased slightly to offset a lead condition.
^ Suspension support misalignment.
^ Front suspension damage, such as a bent strut.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair > Preliminary
Inspection
Alignment: Service and Repair Preliminary Inspection
Steering and ride complaints are not always the result of improper alignment. Another possibility is
tire "lead" due to worn or improperly manufactured tires. "Lead" is the vehicle's deviation from a
straight path on a level road without pressure on the steering wheel. Refer to STEERING,
SUSPENSION, TIRE AND WHEELS DIAGNOSIS, for the procedure to determine if the vehicle has
a lead problem.
Before making any adjustment affecting wheel alignment, make the following inspections to ensure
correct alignment readings and alignment adjustments. Inspect: ^
All tires for proper inflation pressures. Also check that tires have about the same tread wear.
^ Hub and bearing assemblies for excessive wear; correct if necessary. Refer to STEERING,
SUSPENSION, TIRE AND WHEELS DIAGNOSIS.
^ Ball joints and tie rod ends; if they are loose, correct them before adjusting. Refer to FRONT
SUSPENSION.
^ Run-out of wheels and tires.
^ Vehicle trim height. If out of limits and a correction is to be made, do so before adjusting
alignment. Refer to STEERING, SUSPENSION, TIRE AND WHEELS DIAGNOSIS for trim height
chart.
^ Strut dampeners for proper operation.
^ Control arms for loose bushings.
^ Stabilizer shaft for loose or missing parts.
^ Suspension and steering components for damage and replace parts as necessary.
Consideration must be given to excess loads, such as tool boxes, sample cases, etc. If these items
are normally carried in the vehicle, they should remain in the vehicle during alignment adjustments.
Loads such as these should be centered in the vehicle whenever possible to minimize their effects
Consideration should also be given to the condition of the equipment being used to adjust
alignment. Be sure to follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. Regardless of the
equipment used to adjust alignment, the vehicle must be on a level surface, both fore-and-aft and
sideways.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair > Preliminary
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Alignment: Service and Repair Ride/Trim Height Measurement and Adjustment
Vehicle Ride Height Measurement Locations
Prior to measuring vehicle trim height, prepare the vehicle as follows: 1. Check to be sure that:
A. The fuel gage reads full. B. The spare tire and tools are properly located. C. The vehicle is free
of ice, snow and mud accumulations.
2. Set front and rear tire pressure to within plus or minus 20 kPa (3 psi) of recommended pressure
shown on tire placard. If two load conditions are
shown on placard, use the lower load condition.
3. Close engine compartment hood and all doors. 4. Up tow kg (15.5 lbs.) may be left in trunk if it is
located approximately on vehicle centerline. Remove items necessary to meet this requirement. 5.
Measure the vehicle trim height as follows:
^ "Z" and "J" Dimensions: Lift front bumper of vehicle up approximately 38.0 mm (1 1/2 in). Gently
remove hands and let vehicle settle. Repeat twice for a total of 3 times. Measure "Z" and "J"
dimensions. Push front bumper down approximately 38.0 mm (1 1/2 inch). Gently repeat twice for a
total of 3 times. Measure "Z" and "J" dimensions. True heights are the average of the high and low
measurements.
^ "K" Dimension: Lift rear bumper of vehicle up approximately 38.0 mm (1 1/2 inch). Gently remove
hands and let vehicle settle. Repeat twice for a total of 3 times. Measure "K" dimension. Push rear
bumper down approximately 38.0 mm (1 1/2 inch). Gently remove hand and let vehicle rise omits
own. Repeat twice for a total of 3 times. Measure "K" dimension. True heights are the average of
the high and low measurements.
Trim Height Measurements
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair > Preliminary
Inspection > Page 1635
Prior to measuring vehicle trim height, prepare the vehicle as follows: 1. Check to be sure that:
A. The fuel gage reads full. B. The spare tire and tools are properly located. C. The vehicle is free
of ice, snow and mud accumulations.
2. Set front and rear tire pressure to within plus or minus 20 kPa (3 psi) of recommended pressure
shown on tire placard. If two load conditions are
shown on placard, use the lower load condition.
3. Close engine compartment hood and all doors. 4. Up tow kg (15.5 lbs.) may be left in trunk if it is
located approximately on vehicle centerline. Remove items necessary to meet this requirement. 5.
Measure the vehicle trim height as follows:
^ "Z" and "J" Dimensions: Lift front bumper of vehicle up approximately 38.0 mm (1 1/2 in). Gently
remove hands and let vehicle settle. Repeat twice for a total of 3 times. Measure "Z" and "J"
dimensions. Push front bumper down approximately 38.0 mm (1 1/2 inch). Gently repeat twice for a
total of 3 times. Measure "Z" and "J" dimensions. True heights are the average of the high and low
measurements.
^ "K" Dimension: Lift rear bumper of vehicle up approximately 38.0 mm (1 1/2 inch). Gently remove
hands and let vehicle settle. Repeat twice for a total of 3 times. Measure "K" dimension. Push rear
bumper down approximately 38.0 mm (1 1/2 inch). Gently remove hand and let vehicle rise omits
own. Repeat twice for a total of 3 times. Measure "K" dimension. True heights are the average of
the high and low measurements.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair > Preliminary
Inspection > Page 1636
Alignment: Service and Repair Front Wheel Alignment
Measuring Front Alignment Angles
Important: ^
Install alignment equipment following equipment manufacturer's instructions.
^ Jounce front and rear bumpers three times to normalize suspension prior to measuring angles.
^ Measure alignment angles and record the readings. If adjustments are necessary, make them in
the following order: 1. Camber. 2. Toe.
Front Caster Adjustment
Caster is not adjustable. If the caster angle is not within specifications, inspect for suspension
support misalignment or front suspension damage. Replace parts as necessary. Refer to Body and
Frame for measurement points to determine proper underbody alignment.
Front Camber Adjustment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair > Preliminary
Inspection > Page 1637
Important: When camber adjustment is necessary, refer to FRONT SUSPENSION for instructions
on modifying the front strut.
DISASSEMBLE
^ Loosen both strut to knuckle nuts just enough to allow movement.
^ Adjust camber to specification by moving top of wheel in or out.
^ Tighten strut to knuckle nuts to 180 Nm (133 ft. lbs.).
Front Toe Adjustment
DISASSEMBLE
1. Be sure steering wheel is set in a straight ahead position within +/- 5 °. 2. Loosen jam nut.
^ Adjust toe to specification by turning adjuster.
^ Tighten jam nut to 210 ° rotation after 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair > Preliminary
Inspection > Page 1638
Alignment: Service and Repair Rear Wheel Alignment
After front wheel alignment has been completed the rear alignment angles should be checked if
there is excessive rear tire wear or wheels do not track properly. Rear wheels should be parallel to
and the same distance from the vehicles centerline.
If tires do not track correctly after a front wheel alignment, no amount of adjustment will correct the
problem. Poor tracking or excessive rear tire wear after a front wheel alignment usually indicates
that the axle housing, frame, or suspension arms have been bent. Refer to Specifications for rear
alignment angles.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure > Fuel Pressure
Test Port > Component Information > Locations
Fuel Pressure Test Port: Locations
The Fuel Pressure Test Port is located on the fuel rail.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Idle Speed: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable
Engine Idle
Idle Speed: Customer Interest PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-17
Date: July, 1997
Subject: Unstable Engine Idle (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with 3100 V6 Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
Condition
Some owners may experience an unstable engine idle. The controlled engine idle may vary
approximately 50 RPM from desired idle. This typically occurs during an extended idle period
beyond 30 seconds with the transmission in park or neutral and the air conditioning turned off.
Cause
The Pre Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S1) voltage output is driven low and holds there
(lean). The Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2s2) voltage output will hold then at a high
voltage (rich). This can drive one sensor to cancel out the other thus not allowing fuel trim or the
Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor can take over fuel trim control. If the Post Converter
Heated Oxygen takes over fuel trim control, the system thinks it is running rich and the Long Term
Fuel Trim will make adjustments to lean the system. Either of these conditions will cause a rolling
or hunting idle.
Correction
Check the calibration identification number utilizing a scan tool device. Re-flash with the updated
calibration if the current calibration is not one listed in this bulletin. If the vehicle already has the
most recent calibration, then refer to the appropriate service repair manual to diagnose and repair.
Test drive the vehicle after repair to ensure that the condition has been corrected. The new
calibrations are available from the GM Service Technology Group starting with CD number 12 for
1997.
Important:
There are three methods for programming a PCM
1. Direct Programming. The vehicle is directly connected via the Data Link Connector (DLC) on the
Dealers/Retailers Techline equipment. (T-20 Plus, T-50 and T-60 only) Vehicle must be present.
2. Remote programming. The new program is downloaded into the Dealers/Retailers scan tool and
then downloaded into the vehicle from the scan tool via the DLC. Tech 2 required. Vehicle must be
present.
3. Off-Car Programming. A PCM may be programmed while removed from the vehicle by using the
off-board programming adapter (OBPA), P/N 41207-B. This adapter can be connected to either the
Techline Terminal for direct programming or the scan tool for remote programming. Not necessary
for the vehicle to be present.
Refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Techline Information for more detailed instructions.
Parts Information
Part Number Carline Emission
16266904 Malibu, Cutlass USA Nationwide
16266914 Malibu, Cutlass Canadian/Unleaded
Export
16266924 Malibu Leaded Export
Important:
Do not attempt to order the calibrations from GMSPO. The calibrations are programmed into the
vehicle's PCM via a Techline Tool device.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Idle Speed: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable
Engine Idle > Page 1652
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > By Symptom for Idle Speed: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable Engine
Idle
Idle Speed: By Symptom PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-17
Date: July, 1997
Subject: Unstable Engine Idle (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with 3100 V6 Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
Condition
Some owners may experience an unstable engine idle. The controlled engine idle may vary
approximately 50 RPM from desired idle. This typically occurs during an extended idle period
beyond 30 seconds with the transmission in park or neutral and the air conditioning turned off.
Cause
The Pre Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S1) voltage output is driven low and holds there
(lean). The Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2s2) voltage output will hold then at a high
voltage (rich). This can drive one sensor to cancel out the other thus not allowing fuel trim or the
Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor can take over fuel trim control. If the Post Converter
Heated Oxygen takes over fuel trim control, the system thinks it is running rich and the Long Term
Fuel Trim will make adjustments to lean the system. Either of these conditions will cause a rolling
or hunting idle.
Correction
Check the calibration identification number utilizing a scan tool device. Re-flash with the updated
calibration if the current calibration is not one listed in this bulletin. If the vehicle already has the
most recent calibration, then refer to the appropriate service repair manual to diagnose and repair.
Test drive the vehicle after repair to ensure that the condition has been corrected. The new
calibrations are available from the GM Service Technology Group starting with CD number 12 for
1997.
Important:
There are three methods for programming a PCM
1. Direct Programming. The vehicle is directly connected via the Data Link Connector (DLC) on the
Dealers/Retailers Techline equipment. (T-20 Plus, T-50 and T-60 only) Vehicle must be present.
2. Remote programming. The new program is downloaded into the Dealers/Retailers scan tool and
then downloaded into the vehicle from the scan tool via the DLC. Tech 2 required. Vehicle must be
present.
3. Off-Car Programming. A PCM may be programmed while removed from the vehicle by using the
off-board programming adapter (OBPA), P/N 41207-B. This adapter can be connected to either the
Techline Terminal for direct programming or the scan tool for remote programming. Not necessary
for the vehicle to be present.
Refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Techline Information for more detailed instructions.
Parts Information
Part Number Carline Emission
16266904 Malibu, Cutlass USA Nationwide
16266914 Malibu, Cutlass Canadian/Unleaded
Export
16266924 Malibu Leaded Export
Important:
Do not attempt to order the calibrations from GMSPO. The calibrations are programmed into the
vehicle's PCM via a Techline Tool device.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > By Symptom for Idle Speed: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable Engine
Idle > Page 1658
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Idle Speed: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM Unstable Engine Idle
Idle Speed: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-17
Date: July, 1997
Subject: Unstable Engine Idle (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with 3100 V6 Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
Condition
Some owners may experience an unstable engine idle. The controlled engine idle may vary
approximately 50 RPM from desired idle. This typically occurs during an extended idle period
beyond 30 seconds with the transmission in park or neutral and the air conditioning turned off.
Cause
The Pre Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S1) voltage output is driven low and holds there
(lean). The Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2s2) voltage output will hold then at a high
voltage (rich). This can drive one sensor to cancel out the other thus not allowing fuel trim or the
Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor can take over fuel trim control. If the Post Converter
Heated Oxygen takes over fuel trim control, the system thinks it is running rich and the Long Term
Fuel Trim will make adjustments to lean the system. Either of these conditions will cause a rolling
or hunting idle.
Correction
Check the calibration identification number utilizing a scan tool device. Re-flash with the updated
calibration if the current calibration is not one listed in this bulletin. If the vehicle already has the
most recent calibration, then refer to the appropriate service repair manual to diagnose and repair.
Test drive the vehicle after repair to ensure that the condition has been corrected. The new
calibrations are available from the GM Service Technology Group starting with CD number 12 for
1997.
Important:
There are three methods for programming a PCM
1. Direct Programming. The vehicle is directly connected via the Data Link Connector (DLC) on the
Dealers/Retailers Techline equipment. (T-20 Plus, T-50 and T-60 only) Vehicle must be present.
2. Remote programming. The new program is downloaded into the Dealers/Retailers scan tool and
then downloaded into the vehicle from the scan tool via the DLC. Tech 2 required. Vehicle must be
present.
3. Off-Car Programming. A PCM may be programmed while removed from the vehicle by using the
off-board programming adapter (OBPA), P/N 41207-B. This adapter can be connected to either the
Techline Terminal for direct programming or the scan tool for remote programming. Not necessary
for the vehicle to be present.
Refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Techline Information for more detailed instructions.
Parts Information
Part Number Carline Emission
16266904 Malibu, Cutlass USA Nationwide
16266914 Malibu, Cutlass Canadian/Unleaded
Export
16266924 Malibu Leaded Export
Important:
Do not attempt to order the calibrations from GMSPO. The calibrations are programmed into the
vehicle's PCM via a Techline Tool device.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Idle Speed: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM Unstable Engine Idle > Page 1664
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1665
Idle Speed: Specifications
Information not supplied by the manufacturer.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air Filter Element: >
04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: Customer Interest Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air Filter Element: >
04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page 1675
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Filter Element: >
04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Filter Element: >
04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page 1681
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1682
Air Filter Element: Service and Repair
Air Intake Resonator
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the attaching bolt. 2. Remove retainer from resonator. 3. Remove the air intake
resonator.
Installation Procedure
1. Install resonator to vehicle. 2. Connect retainer to the air intake resonator. 3. Install attaching bolt
to the resonator.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure
Release > System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
Tool Required: J 3473-1A, Fuel Pressure Gauge
1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal to avoid possible fuel discharge if an accidental attempt
is made to start the engine. 2. Loosen the fuel filler cap to relieve tank vapor pressure. 3. Connect
Fuel Pressure Gauge J 34730-1A to the fuel pressure connection. Wrap a shop towel around the
fuel pressure connection while
connecting the fuel pressure gauge in order to avoid spillage.
4. Install the bleed hose into an approved container and open the valve to bleed the system
pressure. The fuel connections are now safe for servicing. 5. Drain any fuel remaining in the fuel
pressure gauge into an approved container.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Firing Order > Component
Information > Specifications > Ignition Firing Order
Firing Order: Specifications Ignition Firing Order
Firing Order .........................................................................................................................................
............................................................... 1-2-3-4-5-6
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing > Number One
Cylinder > Component Information > Locations > Number 1 Cylinder Location
Number One Cylinder: Locations Number 1 Cylinder Location
NUMBER ONE CYLINDER LOCATION
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing > Timing Marks
and Indicators > System Information > Locations
Timing Marks and Indicators: Locations
The ignition timing is completely controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No timing
reference marks are provided.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Specifications
Ignition Cable: Specifications
Spark Plug Wire Resistance
..............................................................................................................................................................
Less than 30,000 Ohms.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 1702
Ignition Cable: Locations
Spark Plug Wiring
Spark Plug Wiring
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 1703
Ignition Cable: Service Precautions
Silicone spark plug boots form a tight seal to the spark plugs. The boot should be twisted 1/2 turn
while removing. DO NOT pull on the wire to remove it from a spark plug. Pull on the boot, or use a
tool designed for this purpose. Care should also be exercised when connecting a timing light or
other pick-up equipment. DO NOT force anything between the boot and wiring, or through the
silicone jacket. Connections should be made in parallel using an adapter.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 1704
Ignition Cable: Description and Operation
Description
The spark plug wiring used is a carbon impregnated cord conductor encased in a 7 mm (9/32 inch)
diameter silicone rubber jacket. The silicone wiring will withstand very high temperatures and also
provides an excellent insulator for the higher voltage of the ignition system. The silicone spark plug
boots form a tight seal on the plug and THE BOOT SHOULD BE TWISTED ONE-HALF TURN
WHILE REMOVING. Care should also be exercised when connecting a timing light or other pick-up
equipment. Do not force anything between the boot and wiring, or through the silicone jacket.
Connections should be made in parallel using an adapter. DO NOT pull on the wire to remove. Pull
on the boot, or use a tool designed for this purpose.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 1705
Ignition Cable: Service and Repair
Spark Plug Wiring
When replacing spark plug cables (secondary wiring), route the cables correctly and through the
proper retainers. Use care when unlocking retainers. Failure to route the cables properly can lead
to radio ignition noise and cross-firing of the plugs, or shorting of the leads to ground. The silicone
spark plug boots form a tight seal on the plug and THE BOOT SHOULD BE TWISTED ONE-HALF
TURN WHILE REMOVING. Refer to illustrations for spark plug cable routing.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug > Component
Information > Specifications > Spark Plug Gap
Spark Plug: Specifications
Spark Plug Gap 0.060 in
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug > Component
Information > Specifications > Spark Plug Gap > Page 1710
Spark Plug: Specifications
Spark Plug Torque 20 lb. ft.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug > Component
Information > Service Precautions > Technician Safety Information
Spark Plug: Technician Safety Information
WARNING: If you smoke while handling coated spark plugs, wear gloves to prevent transfer of
coating to cigarette and subsequent burning of coating. Always wash hands after handling coated
plugs.
CAUTION:
Observe service precautions:
- Allow engine to cool BEFORE removing spark plugs. Attempting to remove spark plugs from a hot
engine may cause plug to seize, causing damage to cylinder head threads.
- Clean spark plug recess area BEFORE removing plug. Failure to do so can result in engine
damage due to dirt or foreign material entering cylinder head, or in contamination of cylinder head
threads. Contaminated threads may prevent proper seating of new plug.
- Use only spark plugs specified for use in the vehicle. DO NOT install spark plugs that are either
"hotter" or "colder" than those specified for the vehicle. Installing plugs of another type can severely
damage the engine.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug > Component
Information > Service Precautions > Technician Safety Information > Page 1713
Spark Plug: Vehicle Damage Warnings
WARNING: If you smoke while handling coated spark plugs, wear gloves to prevent transfer of
coating to cigarette and subsequent burning of coating. Always wash hands after handling coated
plugs.
CAUTION:
Observe service precautions:
^ Allow engine to cool BEFORE removing spark plugs. Attempting to remove spark plugs from a
hot engine may cause plug to seize, causing damage to cylinder head threads.
^ Clean spark plug recess area BEFORE removing plug. Failure to do so can result in engine
damage due to dirt or foreign material entering cylinder head, or in contamination of cylinder head
threads. Contaminated threads may prevent proper seating of new plug.
^ Use only spark plugs specified for use in the vehicle. DO NOT install spark plugs that are either
"hotter" or "colder" than those specified for the vehicle. Installing plugs of another type can severely
damage the engine.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug > Component
Information > Service Precautions > Page 1714
Spark Plug: Application and ID
Note: Use recommended part or one of equivalent quality.
AC Type: 41-940
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug > Component
Information > Service Precautions > Page 1715
Spark Plug: Description and Operation
CAUTION: This engine has aluminum cylinder heads. Allow the engine to cool before removing
spark plugs, or the spark plug threads in the cylinder head may be damaged.
DESCRIPTION
This engine uses tapered seat resistor type spark plugs without gaskets. Always replace plugs with
the same spark plug as listed.
OPERATION
Normal service is assumed to be a mixture of idling, slow speed, and high speed driving.
Occasional or intermittent highway driving is needed for good spark plug performance because it
gives increased combustion heat that bums away any excess deposits of carbon or oxides that
have built up from frequent idling or continual stop-and-go driving. Spark plugs are protected by an
insulating boot made of special heat-resistant material which covers the spark plug terminal and
extends downward over a portion of the plug insulator. These boots prevent flash-over which
causes engine mis-firing. Do not mistake corona discharge for flash-over or a shorted insulator.
Corona is a steady blue light appearing around the insulator, just above the shell crimp. It is the
visible evidence of a high-tension field, and has no effect on ignition performance. Usually it can be
detected only in darkness. This discharge may repel dust particles, leaving a clear ring on the
insulator just above the shell. This ring is sometimes mistakenly regarded as evidence that
combustion gases have blown out between shell and insulator.
Spark plugs must operate within certain temperature limits if they are to provide the performance
and service life expected. The spark plug selected for an engine is based on the normal service
which the engine was designed.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug > Component
Information > Service Precautions > Page 1716
Spark Plug: Testing and Inspection
Worn or dirty plugs may give satisfactory operation at idling speed, but under operating conditions
they frequently fail. Faulty plugs are indicated in a number of ways: poor fuel economy, power loss,
loss of speed, hard starting and general poor engine performance.
Spark plugs may also fail due to carbon fouling, excessive gap, or a broken insulator.
Fouled plugs Fouled plugs are identified by black carbon deposits. The black deposits are usually
the result of slow-speed driving and short runs where sufficient engine operating temperature is
seldom reached. Worn pistons, rings, faulty ignition, over-rich air/fuel mixture and spark plugs
which are too cold will also result in carbon deposits.
Excessive gap Excessive gap wear, on plugs of low mileage, usually indicates the engine is
operating at high speeds or loads that are consistently greater than normal or that a plug which is
too hot is being used. Electrode wear may also be the result of plug overheating, caused by
combustion gases leaking past the threads, due to insufficient spark plug torque or too much spark
plug torque. An excessively lean air/fuel mixture will also result in excessive electrode wear.
Broken insulator Broken insulators are usually the result of improper installation or carelessness
when regapping the plug. Broken upper insulators usually result from a poor fitting wrench or an
outside impact. The cracked insulator may not show up right away, but will as soon as oil or
moisture penetrates the crack. The crack is usually just below the crimped part of the shell and
may not be visible.
Broken lower insulators usually result from carelessness when regapping and generally are visible.
This type of break may result from the plug operating too "hot," which may happen in periods of
high-speed operation or under heavy loads. When regapping a spark plug, always make the gap
adjustment by bending the ground (side) electrode. Spark plugs with broken insulators should
always be replaced.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug > Component
Information > Service Precautions > Page 1717
Spark Plug: Service and Repair
Spark Plug Wiring
Notice: To avoid engine damage, do not remove spark plugs when engine is warm. Use care when
removing spark plug wire boots from spark plugs. Twist the boot one-half turn while removing, and
pull on THE BOOT ONLY to remove the wire.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Ignition key OFF.
2. Remove foreign material from around the spark plug holes.
3. Remove the spark plugs using a spark plug socket.
Install or Connect
1. Adjust spark plug gap using a round wire type spark plug gap gage. WHILE GAPPING PLUG BE
SURE TO KEEP THE PLATINUM PADS
ALIGNED TO ENSURE MAXIMUM PLUG LIFE. Refer to Specifications for gap specifications.
2. Install new plugs and tighten properly.
Tighten ^
Sparkplugs to 20 Nm (15 lb ft).
^ Reapply dielectric lubricant to insulator boot.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Compression Check > System
Information > Specifications
Compression Check: Specifications
The lowest reading cylinder should not be less than 70% of the highest and no cylinder reading
should be less than 689 kPa (100 psi). Perform compression test with engine at normal operating
temperature, spark plugs removed and throttle wide open.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Compression Check > System
Information > Specifications > Page 1721
Compression Check: Testing and Inspection
TOOL REQUIRED
^ J 38722 Compression Tester
A compression pressure test of the engine cylinders determines the condition of the rings, the
valves and the head gasket.
CAUTION: This engine has aluminum cylinder heads. Allow the engine to cool before removing the
spark plugs, or the engine may be damaged.
1. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. The battery must be at or near full
charge. 2. Turn the engine OFF. 3. Disable the ignition system. See Powertrain Management. 4.
Disable the fuel system. See Powertrain Management.
CAUTION: Remove the ignition fuse and both of the injector fuses from the fuse box and/or
underhood electrical center.
5. Remove the spark plugs from all cylinders. See Powertrain Management. 6. Remove the air duct
from the throttle body. See Powertrain Management. 7. Block the throttle plate in open position. 8.
Measure the engine compression using the following procedure:
a. Install the Compression Tester firmly to the spark plug hole. b. Crank the engine through at least
ten compression strokes (or until the highest reading is achieved) in the cylinder being tested and
check the
readings on the Compression Tester at each stroke. Record the results.
c. Disconnect the Compression Tester. d. Repeat the compression test for each cylinder.
9. Record the compression readings from all of the cylinders.
^ The lowest reading should not be less than 70% of the highest reading.
^ No cylinder reading should be less than 689 kPa (100 psi).
10. When the compression measurement is normal, the compression builds up quickly and evenly
to the specified compression on each cylinder. 11. The following are problem areas:
^ If there is a problem with the piston ring, compression is low on the first stroke and tends to build
up on the following strokes, but does not reach normal. Compression improves considerably with
the addition of oil. Use approximately three squirts of oil from a plunger-type oiler.
^ If there is a problem with the valve, compression is low on the first stroke and it does not tend to
build up in following strokes. Compression does not improve much with the addition of oil. Use
approximately three squirts from a plunger type oiler.
^ Leaking head gaskets give nearly the same results as valve problems, but may be identified by
engine coolant in the crankcase. Head gasket leakage between two cylinders will give low readings
on both cylinders.
12. Remove the block from the throttle plate. 13. Install the air duct to the throttle body. See
Powertrain Management. 14. Install the spark plugs. See Powertrain Management. 15. Install the
ignition fuse and both fuel injector fuses to the fuse box and/or underhood electrical center.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve Clearance > System
Information > Specifications
Valve Clearance: Specifications
This engine uses hydraulic lifters and no valve lash adjustment is necessary.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Timing Belt > Component Information > Service and Repair
Timing Belt: Service and Repair
GM does not specify if this engine is an interference engine or not.
To be safe, always observe the following precautions.
If cylinder head is installed on the cylinder block:
- DO NOT turn the crankshaft or camshaft if the timing belt/chain is not installed or if the camshaft
timing has not been confirmed to be correct.
- DO NOT rotate engine backwards.
- If a broken or "jumped" timing belt/chain is suspected, DO NOT use the starter to crank the
engine.
- If a "catch" is felt when rotating the engine by hand, DO NOT attempt force the engine to rotate
past the "catch".
If cylinder head is removed (overhead cam engines):
- Do not set cylinder head on a flat surface with combustion chamber down.
When re-installing a cylinder head:
- Confirm that the crankshaft AND camshaft gears align with their respective timing marks or
confirm that all shafts are set to TDC for cylinder # 1 BEFORE placing the cylinder head onto the
cylinder block.
If the timing chain/belt has broken of "jumped time" with the engine running, always check for bent
valves by pressurizing each cylinder with air with it's valves in the closed position.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine
- Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics
Drive Belt: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-06-01-008A
Date: July 27, 2009
Subject: Diagnosing Accessory Drive Belt / Serpentine Belt Noise and Availability and Use of
Kent-Moore EN-49228 Laser Alignment Tool - Drive Belt
Models:
2010 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 Vehicles 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add a model year and update the Tool Information.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 08-06-01-008 (Section 06 - Engine).
Background
Several aftermarket companies offer laser alignment tools for accessory drive systems that can be
very helpful in eliminating drive belt noise as a result of misaligned pulleys. Typically pricing ranges
from $160 - $200.
EN-49228 Laser Alignment Tool - Drive Belt
The GM Tool program has now made available a competitive, simple to use and time-saving laser
tool to assist in achieving precise alignment of the drive belt pulleys. This optional tool removes the
guesswork from proper pulley alignment and may serve to reduce comebacks from:
- Drive Belt Noise
- Accelerated Drive Belt Wear
- Drive Belt Slippage
Instructions
The instructions below are specific only to the truck Gen IV V-8 family of engines. These
instructions are only for illustrative purposes to show how the tool may be used. Universal
instructions are included in the box with the Laser Alignment Tool - Drive Belt.
Caution
- Do not look directly into the beam projected from the laser.
- Use caution when shining the laser on highly polished or reflective surfaces. Laser safety glasses
help reduce laser beam glare in many circumstances.
- Always use laser safety glasses when using the laser. Laser safety glasses are not designed to
protect eyes from direct laser exposure.
1. Observe and mark the serpentine belt orientation.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine
- Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics > Page 1732
2. Remove the serpentine belt from the accessory drive system.
3. Install the tool onto the power steering pulley. Position the legs of the tool into the outer grooves
of the pulley, farthest from the front of the
engine.
4. Install the retaining cord around the pulley and to the legs of the tool.
5. Put on the laser safety glasses provided with the tool. 6. Depress the switch on the rear of the
tool to activate the light beam. 7. Rotate the power steering pulley as required to project the light
beam onto the crankshaft balancer pulley grooves. 8. Inspect for proper power steering pulley
alignment.
- If the laser beam projects onto the second rib or raised area (1), the pulleys are aligned properly.
- If the laser beam projects more than one-quarter rib 0.9 mm (0.035 in) mis-alignment, adjust the
position of the power steering pulley as required.
- Refer to SI for Power Steering Pulley Removal and Installation procedures.
9. Install the serpentine belt to the accessory drive system in the original orientation.
10. Operate the vehicle and verify that the belt noise concern is no longer present.
Tool Information
Please visit the GM service tool website for pricing information or to place your order for this tool.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine
- Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics > Page 1733
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine
- Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics > Page 1734
Drive Belt: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Serpentine Drive Belt Wear Information
Bulletin No.: 04-06-01-013
Date: April 29, 2004
INFORMATION
Subject: Information on Serpentine Belt Wear
Models: 2004 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks 2003-2004 and Prior HUMMER H2
All current GM vehicles designed and manufactured in North America were assembled with
serpentine belts that are made with an EPDM material and should last the life of the vehicle. It is
extremely rare to observe any cracks in EPDM belts and it is not expected that they will require
maintenance before 10 years or 240,000 km (150,000 mi) of use.
Older style belts, which were manufactured with a chloroprene compound, may exhibit cracks
depending on age. However, the onset of cracking typically signals that the belt is only about
halfway through its usable life.
A good rule of thumb for chloroprene-based belts is that if cracks are observed 3 mm (1/8 in) apart,
ALL AROUND THE BELT, the belt may be reaching the end of its serviceable life and should be
considered a candidate for changing. Small cracks spaced at greater intervals should not be
considered as indicative that the belt needs changing.
Any belt that exhibits chunking should be replaced.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Symptom
Related Diagnostic Procedures
Drive Belt: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Symptom
Related Diagnostic Procedures > Page 1737
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Symptom
Related Diagnostic Procedures > Page 1738
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Symptom
Related Diagnostic Procedures > Page 1739
Drive Belt: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
The following are symptomatic noises of the accessory drive belt system:
1. Chirping:
^ A high pitched noise that is usually heard once per revolution of a pulley or a belt.
^ It is most common on cold, damp mornings.
^ Verify this condition by squirting water onto the belt. The noise will momentarily stop.
^ A loud screeching noise that is caused by a slipping belt (this is unusual for a multiple ribbed
belt).
^ The noise occurs when a heavy load is applied to the belt, such as an air conditioning
compressor engagement, snapping the throttle, or slipping on a seized pulley.
3. Whine:
^ A high pitched continuous noise that may be caused by a failed component bearing.
4. Faint Cycle Rumbling:
^ A low frequency noise heard once per revolution of the belt.
5. Pilling:
^ The random accumulation of rubber dust in the bottom of the multi-ribbed belt grooves. A small
amount of pilling is normal. Operation of the drive belt system will not be effected unless the
buildup exceeds one third (1/3) of the belt groove depth.
NOTE: Multiple ribbed, accessory drive belts wear evenly with their pulleys. Unusual wear indicates
a correction is needed. The following diagnostic tables will aid in diagnosing drive belt system
problems.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1740
Drive Belt: Service and Repair
TOOL REQUIRED
^ J 39914 Drive Belt Tension Wrench
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Rotate the belt tensioner. Use the Drive Belt Tension Wrench.
3. Remove the drive belt from the generator pulley. 4. Support the engine by the oil pan. 5.
Remove the engine mount assembly from the engine mount bracket support. 6. Remove the
auxiliary bracket. 7. Lower the engine in order to remove the drive belt. 8. Remove the drive belt.
INSTALLATION
1. Rotate the belt tensioner. Use the Drive Belt Tension Wrench. 2. Install the drive belt. 3. Install
the auxiliary bracket. 4. Install the auxiliary bracket fasteners. Tighten the fasteners to 50 Nm (37 ft.
lbs.). 5. Install the engine mount assembly to the engine mount bracket support bolts. 6. Remove
the floor jack. 7. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: Customer Interest Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page 1751
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine,
A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine,
A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page 1757
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1758
Air Filter Element: Service and Repair
Air Intake Resonator
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the attaching bolt. 2. Remove retainer from resonator. 3. Remove the air intake
resonator.
Installation Procedure
1. Install resonator to vehicle. 2. Connect retainer to the air intake resonator. 3. Install attaching bolt
to the resonator.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fluid Filter - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Oil Filter and Seal
Fluid Filter - A/T: Service and Repair Oil Filter and Seal
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle and support the vehicle. 2. Drain oil. 3. Oil pan attaching bolts, oil pan and gasket.
4. Oil filter assembly. 5. Filter neck seal from transaxle case using a small screwdriver and being
careful not to score case during removal. The filter seal is not reusable and
should be discarded.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. New oil filter and new oil filter seal. Tap gently and evenly on the seal to prevent damage to the
case bore or seal. 2. Oil pan gasket; may be reused, unless sealing ribs are damaged. If damaged,
use new gasket. 3. Oil pan and attaching bolts, refer to TRANSAXLE OIL PAN AND GASKET.
Tighten Pan bolts to 12 Nm (9 ft. lbs.).
4. Lower vehicle. 5. Fill transaxle to proper level with DEXRON(R) III oil.
Inspect
- Oil pan gasket for leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fluid Filter - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Oil Filter and Seal > Page 1763
Fluid Filter - A/T: Service and Repair Changing Oil and Filter
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle and support the vehicle. 2. Place drain pan under transaxle oil pan. 3. Oil pan bolts
from the front and sides only. 4. Loosen rear oil pan bolts approximately 4 turns.
NOTICE: Do not damage the transaxle case or oil pan sealing surfaces.
5. Lightly tap oil pan with rubber mallet or pry to allow oil to drain.
Inspect
- Inspect oil color.
- Refer to CHECKING OIL COLOR, LEVEL AND CONDITION.
6. Remaining oil pan bolts, oil pan and gasket. 7. Oil filter and O-ring.
Inspect
- O-ring may be stuck in the case.
Clean
- Transaxle case and oil pan gasket surfaces with solvent and air dry. All traces of old gasket
material must be removed.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Coat seal with a small amount of TRANSJEL(R) J 36850 or equivalent. 2. New seal into case. 3.
New filter into case. 4. Oil pan and new gasket. 5. Oil pan bolts, refer to FASTENER TIGHTENING
SPECIFICATIONS.
Inspect
- Refer to VALVE BODY COVER AND OIL PAN BOLTS for inspection of bolts and washers.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fluid Filter - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Oil Filter and Seal > Page 1764
- Use adhesive/sealant compound GM P/N 12345382 or equivalent to reduce the potential for oil
leaks on indicated bolt.
6. Lower vehicle. 7. Fill transaxle to proper level with DEXRON III oil.
Adjust
- Cold oil level reading for initial fill. Do not overfill.
8. Follow the TRANSAXLE OIL LEVEL CHECKING PROCEDURE.
Inspect
- Check oil pan gasket for leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure Release > System Information >
Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
Tool Required: J 3473-1A, Fuel Pressure Gauge
1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal to avoid possible fuel discharge if an accidental attempt
is made to start the engine. 2. Loosen the fuel filler cap to relieve tank vapor pressure. 3. Connect
Fuel Pressure Gauge J 34730-1A to the fuel pressure connection. Wrap a shop towel around the
fuel pressure connection while
connecting the fuel pressure gauge in order to avoid spillage.
4. Install the bleed hose into an approved container and open the valve to bleed the system
pressure. The fuel connections are now safe for servicing. 5. Drain any fuel remaining in the fuel
pressure gauge into an approved container.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fuel Pump Pickup Filter > Component Information > Description
and Operation
Fuel Pump Pickup Filter: Description and Operation
Fuel Strainer
A woven plastic strainer is located on the lower end of the fuel sender. This filter prevents dirt from
entering the fuel line and also stops water unless the filter becomes completely submerged in
water. This filter is self cleaning and normally requires no maintenance. Fuel stoppage at this point
indicates that the fuel tank contains an abnormal amount of sediment or water. Therefore, should
this occur, the fuel tank should be removed and thoroughly cleaned and the tank filter replaced.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Oil Filter, Engine > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Engine - Noise/Damage Oil Filter Application Importance
Oil Filter: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Noise/Damage Oil Filter Application Importance
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 07-06-01-016B
Date: July 27, 2009
Subject: Information on Internal Engine Noise or Damage After Oil Filter Replacement
Models:
2010 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3
2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being updated to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 07-06-01-016A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Important Engine damage that is the result of an incorrect or improperly installed engine oil filter is
not a warrantable claim. The best way to avoid oil filter quality concerns is to purchase ACDelco(R)
oil filters directly from GMSPO.
Oil filter misapplication may cause abnormal engine noise or internal damage. Always utilize the
most recent parts information to ensure the correct part number filter is installed when replacing oil
filters. Do not rely on physical dimensions alone. Counterfeit copies of name brand parts have been
discovered in some aftermarket parts systems. Always ensure the parts you install are from a
trusted source. Improper oil filter installation may result in catastrophic engine damage.
Refer to the appropriate Service Information (SI) installation instructions when replacing any oil
filter and pay particular attention to procedures for proper cartridge filter element alignment. If the
diagnostics in SI (Engine Mechanical) lead to the oil filter as the cause of the internal engine noise
or damage, dealers should submit a field product report. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
02-00-89-002I (Information for Dealers on How to Submit a Field Product Report).
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Oil Filter, Engine > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 1776
Oil Filter: Specifications
Filter .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 13 Nm (115 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Heater Hose > Component Information > Specifications >
Thermostat Bypass Pipe (Heater Outlet)
Heater Hose: Specifications Thermostat Bypass Pipe (Heater Outlet)
Retaining Nut .......................................................................................................................................
...................................................... 25 N.m (18 lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Heater Hose > Component Information > Specifications >
Thermostat Bypass Pipe (Heater Outlet) > Page 1782
Heater Hose: Specifications Heater Inlet Pipe
Inlet Pipe Nut .......................................................................................................................................
...................................................... 25 N.m (18 lb ft.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Heater Hose > Component Information > Locations > Heater
Hoses
Heater Hoses
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Heater Hose > Component Information > Locations > Heater
Hoses > Page 1785
Heater Inlet Pipe
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Heater Hose > Component Information > Locations > Heater
Hoses > Page 1786
Thermostat Bypass/Heater Outlet Pipe
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Heater Hose > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Heater Hoses
Heater Hose: Service and Repair Heater Hoses
Heater Hoses
Check all heater hose routing for installation to avoid contact with any obstruction that could result
in a damaged hose. Some hoses are equipped with conduit in areas where rubbing may occur.
Always reinstall conduit and heat sleeving in the same location when replacing a hose. when
servicing a heater hose with a quick connect assembly, REPLACEMENT OF THE RETAINER IS
RECOMMENDED.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Drain engine coolant. 2. Heater hoses from heater pipes by squeezing tabs on quick connects.
3. Heater hoses from heater core.
Install or Connect
1. Heater hoses to heater core. 2. Heater hoses to heater pipe quick connects, pull to verify
connection. 3. Refill engine coolant.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Heater Hose > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Heater Hoses > Page 1789
Heater Hose: Service and Repair Heater Inlet Pipe
Heater Inlet Pipe
Check all heater hose routing for installation to avoid contact with any obstruction that could result
in a damaged hose. Some hoses are equipped with conduit in areas where rubbing may occur.
Always reinstall conduit and heat sleeving in the same location when replacing a hose. when
servicing a heater hose with a quick connect assembly, REPLACEMENT OF THE RETAINER IS
RECOMMENDED.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Drain cooling system. 2. Heater inlet pipe retaining nut on cylinder head (Behind exhaust
crossover pipe). 3. Heater hose to heater inlet pipe by squeezing tabs on quick connect. 4. Heater
inlet pipe from engine fitting by squeezing tabs on quick connect. 5. Heater inlet pipe.
Install or Connect
1. Heater inlet pipe to engine, pull to verify connection. 2. Heater inlet pipe retaining nut.
Tighten
^ Nut to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
3. Heater hose to heater inlet pipe, pull to verify connection 4. Refill coolant system.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Heater Hose > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Heater Hoses > Page 1790
Heater Hose: Service and Repair Quick Connect Retainer
The quick connect retainer is located on the end of the heater outlet pipe on 2.4L applications and
on both the inlet and outlet pipes on 3.1L applications. The quick connect retainer can be removed
from the heater pipe and replaced if necessary. WHENEVER THE HEATER HOSE QUICK
CONNECT IS DISCONNECTED, RETAINER REPLACEMENT IS RECOMMENDED.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Heater Hose > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Heater Hoses > Page 1791
Heater Hose: Service and Repair Thermostat Bypass Pipe (Heater Outlet)
Thermostat Bypass/Heater Outlet Pipe
Check all heater hose routing for installation to avoid contact with any obstruction that could result
in a damaged hose. Some hoses are equipped with conduit in areas where rubbing may occur.
Always reinstall conduit and heat sleeving in the same location when replacing a hose. when
servicing a heater hose with a quick connect assembly, REPLACEMENT OF THE RETAINER IS
RECOMMENDED.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Drain cooling system. 2. Thermostat bypass hose from intake manifold pipe. 3. Retaining nuts on
exhaust manifold. 4. Air Inlet assembly. 5. Outlet pipe retaining nut on cylinder head (Behind
exhaust crossover pipe). 6. Heater hose from outlet pipe by squeezing tabs on quick connect. 7.
Throttle body hoses from outlet pipe. 8. Radiator hose from thermostat housing. 9. Outlet pipe
assembly.
Install or Connect
1. Outlet pipe assembly. 2. Radiator hose to thermostat housing. 3. Throttle body hoses to outlet
pipe 4. Outlet pipe retaining nut (Hand tighten at this point). 5. Thermostat bypass hose to intake
manifold pipe. 6. Tighten retaining nut.
Tighten
^ Nut to 25 Nm (18 lb ft)
7. Heater hose to outlet pipe. Pull to verify connection 8. Air Inlet assembly. 9. Fill cooling system
and check for leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Specifications >
Compressor/Condenser Hose
Hose/Line HVAC: Specifications Compressor/Condenser Hose
Bolt ......................................................................................................................................................
....................................................... 33 N.m (24 lb ft) Nut ....................................................................
......................................................................................................................................... 24 N.m (18
lb ft) Nut ...............................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. 25 N.m (18 lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Specifications >
Compressor/Condenser Hose > Page 1796
Hose/Line HVAC: Specifications Evaporator Tube (Evaporator to Condenser)
Bolt ......................................................................................................................................................
....................................................... 25 N.m (18 lb ft) Nut ....................................................................
......................................................................................................................................... 25 N.m (18
lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Specifications >
Compressor/Condenser Hose > Page 1797
Hose/Line HVAC: Specifications Suction Tube (Evaporator to Accumulator)
Nut, Evap-accumulator ........................................................................................................................
.................................................... 23.5 N.m (17 lb ft) Nut, Block fitting ................................................
....................................................................................................................................... 25 N.m (18 lb
ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Locations >
Compressor/Condenser Hose
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Locations >
Compressor/Condenser Hose > Page 1800
A/C System Plumbing
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Locations >
Compressor/Condenser Hose > Page 1801
A/C System Plumbing
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Compressor/Condenser Hose
Hose/Line HVAC: Service and Repair Compressor/Condenser Hose
Compressor/Condenser Hose Assembly
A/C System Plumbing
Tool Required:
J 39500 R-134a Refrigerant Recovery, Recycling, and Recharging (ACR4) System
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Compressor/Condenser Hose > Page 1804
Remove or Disconnect
1. Recover refrigerant. Refer to Recovery. 2. Discharge tube from condenser and switch
connection on discharge tube. 3. Raise vehicle. 4. Right front tire/wheel and lower closeout panel.
5. Partially remove splash shield from fascia. 6. Suction hose (accumulator to compressor) at
accumulator. 7. Block fitting at the rear head of the compressor. 8. Compressor/condenser hose
assembly.
Important
^ Remove and discard all used O-ring seals and sealing washers.
Install or Connect
1. Compressor/condenser hose assembly. 2. Block fitting at the rear head of the compressor.
Tighten
^ Bolt to 33 N.m (24 lb ft).
3. Suction hose (accumulator to compressor) at accumulator.
Tighten
^ Nut to 24 N.m (18 lb ft).
4. Splash shield to fascia. 5. Right front tire/wheel and lower closeout panel. 6. Lower vehicle.
Tighten
^ Nut to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
7. Discharge tube to condenser, switch connection on discharge tube. 8. Evacuate and charge A/C
system. Refer to Evacuation. 9. Check system operation and leak test. Refer to Refrigerant Leak
Testing.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Compressor/Condenser Hose > Page 1805
Hose/Line HVAC: Service and Repair Evaporator Tube (Evaporator to Condenser)
A/C System Plumbing
Tool Required:
J 39500 R-134a Refrigerant Recovery, Recycling, and Recharging (ACR4) System
Remove or Disconnect
1. Recover refrigerant. Refer to Recovery. 2. Block fitting from the evaporator and discard the
O-ring seals. 3. Raise vehicle. 4. Connection at the condenser and discard the O-ring seal. 5. Right
front tire/wheel. 6. Splash shield from fascia. 7. Brake tube retainer from vehicle and position aside.
8. Evaporator tube from retaining clip on the body side rail. 9. Evaporator tube.
Install or Connect
1. Evaporator tube. 2. Evaporator tube to retaining clip on the body side rail 3. Brake tube retainer
to vehicle. 4. Splash shield. 5. Right front tire/wheel. 6. Connection at the condenser and O-ring
seal.
Tighten
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Compressor/Condenser Hose > Page 1806
^ Bolt to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
7. Lower vehicle. 8. Block fitting to the evaporator and O-ring seals.
Tighten
^ Nut to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
9. Evacuate and charge A/C system. Refer to Evacuation.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Compressor/Condenser Hose > Page 1807
Hose/Line HVAC: Service and Repair Suction Tube (Evaporator to Accumulator)
A/C System Plumbing
Tool Required:
J 39500 R-134a Refrigerant Recovery, Recycling, and Recharging (ACR4) System
Remove or Disconnect
1. Recover refrigerant. 2. Block fitting at the evaporator. 3. Raise vehicle. 4. Right front tire/wheel.
5. Partially remove splash shield from fascia. 6. Suction tube (evaporator to accumulator) at
accumulator. 7. Suction Tube.
Important
^ Remove and discard all used O-ring seals and sealing washers.
Install or Connect
1. Suction Tube. 2. Suction tube (evaporator to accumulator) to accumulator.
Tighten
^ Nut to 23.5 N.m (17 lb ft).
3. Splash shield to fascia.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Compressor/Condenser Hose > Page 1808
4. Right front tire/wheel. 5. Lower vehicle. 6. Block fitting to the evaporator.
Tighten
^ Nut to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
7. Evacuate and charge A/C system. Refer to Evacuation.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Gear Inlet Pipe
Power Steering Line/Hose: Service and Repair Gear Inlet Pipe
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Gear Inlet Pipe > Page 1813
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Line retainer (if applicable). 2. Gear inlet pipe from pump. 3. Gear inlet pipe from the inlet
hose/pipe assembly. 4. Gear inlet pipe from vehicle.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Gear inlet pipe into position on vehicle. 2. Gear inlet pipe to the hose/pipe assembly.
^ Tighten pipe to hose/pipe assembly 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
3. Gear inlet pipe to pump.
^ Tighten pipe to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Gear Inlet Pipe > Page 1814
4. Line retainer (if applicable).
^ Bleed air from system.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Gear Inlet Pipe > Page 1815
Power Steering Line/Hose: Service and Repair Gear Inlet Pipe/Hose Assembly
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Gear Inlet Pipe > Page 1816
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Gear Inlet Pipe > Page 1817
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Gear inlet hose/pipe from pipe (going to pump). 2. Raise vehicle. 3. Line retainer (if applicable).
4. Gear inlet pipe/hose from the steering gear. 5. Gear inlet pipe/hose from vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Gear Inlet Pipe > Page 1818
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Gear inlet pipe/hose to vehicle. 2. Gear inlet pipe/hose to the steering gear.
^ Tighten pipe/hose assembly to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
3. Line retainer (if applicable). 4. Lower vehicle. 5. Gear inlet hose/pipe to pipe (going to pump).
^ Tighten pipe to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
Important: Bleed air from system.
^ Inspect for leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Gear Inlet Pipe > Page 1819
Power Steering Line/Hose: Service and Repair Gear Outlet Pipe/Hose and Cooler Pipe
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Gear Inlet Pipe > Page 1820
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Gear Inlet Pipe > Page 1821
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Gear Inlet Pipe > Page 1822
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Gear outlet pipe/hose from pump reservoir after sliding spring hose clamp from inlet reservoir
tube. 2. Raise vehicle. 3. Line retainer (if applicable). 4. Gear outlet pipe/hose from steering gear.
5. Gear outlet pipe/hose from vehicle.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Gear outlet pipe/hose into position on vehicle. 2. Gear outlet pipe to the steering gear.
^ Tighten pipe to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
3. Line retainer (if applicable). 4. Lower vehicle. 5. Gear outlet pipe/hose to pump reservoir and
spring clamp.
Important: Bleed air from system.
^ Inspect for leaks.
6. Lower vehicle. 7. Fill with fluid and bleed system if necessary. 8. Check for leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Radiator Hose > Component Information > Service and Repair
Radiator Hose: Service and Repair
REMOVAL
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Drain and recover the coolant so the lever is below the hose, being
removed. 3. Radiator inlet hose from the radiator and thermostat housing. 4. Engine inlet hose from
the radiator, water pump and surge tank.
CAUTION: Make sure the reference marks on the hoses and the radiator are lined up. A twist on
the hose would place strain on the radiator fitting which could cause the fitting to crack or break.
INSTALLATION
1. Engine inlet hose to the radiator, water pump and surge tank. 2. Radiator inlet hose to the
radiator and thermostat housing. 3. Negative battery cable. Tighten bolt to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.). 4. Fill
the cooling system. Inspect for leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Brake Fluid > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Brake Fluid - Level & Filling Recommendations
Brake Fluid: Technical Service Bulletins Brake Fluid - Level & Filling Recommendations
File In Section: 05 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 00-05-22-004
Date: May, 2000
INFORMATION
Subject: Brake Fluid Level and Filling Recommendations
Models: 2001 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks
Many dealers and after-market repair shops advertise multi-point fluid "top-ups" in conjunction with
oil changes or regular maintenance packages. These offers often include adding brake fluid to the
master cylinder reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the brake
reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid level goes down an acceptable level during
normal brake lining wear. When the linings are replaced, the fluid will return to it's original level.
The second possible reason for a low fluid level is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If
fluid is leaking, the brake system requires repair and adding additional fluid will not correct the leak.
If the system was properly filled during delivery of the vehicle, no additional fluid should be required
under most circumstances between brake pad and/or shoe replacements. This information can be
reinforced with the customer by referring them to the Brake Fluid section of their vehicle's Owner's
Manual.
Guidelines
GM vehicles have incorporated a variety of brake fluid reservoir styles. The following guidelines are
restricted to the plastic bodied fluid reservoirs and do not affect the original service
recommendations for the older style metal bodied units.
You may encounter both black plastic and translucent style reservoirs. You may have reservoirs
with:
^ A MAX fill mark only
^ A MIN fill mark only
^ Both MAX and MIN marks
The translucent style reservoirs do not have to have the covers removed in order to view the fluid
level. It is a good practice not to remove the reservoir cover unless necessary to reduce the
possibility of contaminating the system. Use the following guidelines to assist in determining the
proper fluid level.
Important:
When adding brake fluid, use Delco Supreme II(R) Brake Fluid, GM P/N 12377967 or equivalent
brand bearing the DOT-3 rating only.
Important:
At no time should the fluid level be allowed to remain in an overfilled condition. Overfilling the brake
reservoir may put unnecessary stress on the seals and cover of the reservoir. Use the following
guidelines to properly maintain the fluid level. If the reservoir is overfilled, siphon out the additional
fluid to comply with the guidelines below.
Important:
If under any circumstance the brake fluid level is extremely low in the reservoir or the BRAKE
warning indicator is illuminated, the brake system should be checked for leaks and the system
repaired in addition to bringing the fluid level up to the recommended guidelines outlined below. A
leaking brake system will have reduced braking performance and will eventually not work at all.
Important:
Some vehicles have reservoirs that are very sensitive to brake fluid levels and may cause the
BRAKE indicator to flicker on turns as the fluid approaches the minimum required level. If you
encounter a vehicle with this concern, increase the fluid level staying within the guidelines outlined
below.
^ If the reservoir has a MAX level indicator, the reservoir should be returned to the MAX marking
only at the time new brake pads and/or shoes are installed. If the reservoir fluid level is at the
half-way point or above do not attempt to add additional brake fluid during routine fluid checks.
^ If the reservoir has both MAX and MIN indicators, the fluid level should be maintained above the
MIN indicator during routine fluid checks and returned to the MAX indication only after new brake
pads and/or shoes are installed.
^ For reservoirs with only a MIN indication, the fluid level should be maintained above the MIN
indicator during routine fluid checks. Return the
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Brake Fluid > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Brake Fluid - Level & Filling Recommendations > Page 1831
reservoir fluid level to full only after installing new brake pads and/or shoes. A full reservoir is
indicated on translucent, snap cover reservoirs by a fluid level even with the top level of the view
window imprinted into the side of the reservoir. On screw top models in black or translucent plastic,
the full level is just below the bottom of the filler neck.
Parts Information
Part Number Description
12377967 Brake Fluid
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Brake Fluid > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Page 1832
Brake Fluid: Specifications
Brake System DOT 3
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Brake Fluid > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
Brake Fluid: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
With the engine running at idle and the shift lever in neutral, depress the brake pedal and hold a
constant foot pressure on the pedal. If the pedal gradually falls away with the constant pressure,
the hydraulic system may be leaking. Perform a visual inspection to confirm any suspected leak.
Check the master cylinder fluid level. While a slight drop in reservoir level does result from normal
lining wear, an abnormally low level in either reservoir may indicate a leak in the system. The
hydraulic system may be leaking either internally or externally. Also, the system may appear to
pass this test but still have slight leakage. If the fluid level is normal and no external leaks are found
at the brake pipe or hose connections or at the caliper or wheel cylinder boots. Check the service
brake pedal travel, brake adjustment and the parking brake adjustment.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Brake Fluid > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures > Page 1835
Brake Fluid: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
CAUTION: Use only DOT 3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed container. Do not use any fluid from a
container which is wet with water. Do not use DOT 5 silicone brake fluid. Improper brake fluid,
mineral oil or water in the fluid may cause the brake fluid to boil or the rubber components to
deteriorate. Keep all fluid containers capped to prevent contamination. Improper brake fluid,
mineral oil or water in the fluid may cause the brake fluid to boil or the rubber components in the
hydraulic system to deteriorate.
Upon inspection, if primary piston cups are swollen, then rubber parts have deteriorated. This
deterioration may also be evidenced by swollen wheel cylinder piston cups on the drum brake
wheel cylinders or the master cylinder cover diaphragm. If deterioration of rubber is evident,
disassemble all hydraulic parts and wash with alcohol. Dry these parts with unlubricated
compressed air before assembly to keep alcohol out of the system. Replace all rubber parts in the
system, including hoses. Also, when working on the brake mechanisms, check for fluid on the
brake linings. If any fluid is found, replace the linings. If master cylinder piston seals are
satisfactory, check for leakage or excessive heat conditions. If condition is not found, drain fluid,
flush with brake fluid, refill and bleed the system.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Brake Fluid > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Page 1836
Brake Fluid: Service and Repair
Use Delco Supreme II Brake Fluid (GM P/N 1052535) or an equivalent DOT-3 motor vehicle brake
fluid. DOT-5 silicone fluid is not recommended for use in the vehicle's base brake system. DOT-5
brake fluid should never be used in the antilock brake system. Brake fluid should always be stored
in a closed container. Reseal brake fluid containers immediately after use. Brake fluid left in an
open or improperly sealed container will absorb moisture. This can lower the fluid's boiling point
and may result in system contamination, corrosion or deterioration of rubber components.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye
Coolant: Technical Service Bulletins Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye
Bulletin No.: 05-06-02-002B
Date: January 18, 2008
INFORMATION
Subject: DEX-COOL(R) Coolant - New Leak Detection Dye J 46366 - Replaces J 29545-6
Models: 1996-2008 GM Passenger Cars and Light/Medium Duty Trucks* (including Saturn)
1997-2008 Isuzu T-Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab Models Built in Janesville and Flint 1999-2008
Isuzu N-Series Medium Duty Commercial Models with 5.7L or 6.0L Gas Engine
2003-2008 HUMMER H2 2006-2008 HUMMER H3 2005-2008 Saab 9-7X
*EXCLUDING 2006 and Prior Chevrolet Aveo, Epica, Optra, Vivant and Pontiac Matiz, Wave
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to include additional model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 05-06-02-002A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Leak detection dye P/N 12378563 (J 29545-6) (in Canada P/N 88900915) may cause
DEX-COOL(R) coolant to appear green in a black vessel making it appear to be conventional
(green) coolant. This may cause a technician to add conventional coolant to a low DEX-COOL(R)
system thus contaminating it. The green DEX-COOL(R) appearance is caused by the color of the
leak detection dye which alters the color of the DEX-COOL(R) coolant.
A new leak detection dye P/N 89022219 (J 46366) (in Canada P/N 89022220) has been released
that does not alter the appearance of the DEX-COOL(R) coolant. When adding the new leak
detection dye the color of the DEX-COOL(R) coolant will not change. For detecting leaks on any
system that uses DEX-COOL(R) leak detection dye P/N 89022219 (in Canada P/N 89022220)
should be used. The new leak detection dye can be used with both conventional and
DEX-COOL(R) coolant.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye > Page 1841
Coolant: Technical Service Bulletins Cooling System - Coolant Recycling Information
Bulletin No.: 00-06-02-006D
Date: August 15, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Engine Coolant Recycling and Warranty Information
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2007 and Prior
HUMMER Vehicles 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Attention:
Please address this bulletin to the Warranty Claims Administrator and the Service Manager.
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to adjust the title and Include Warranty Information. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 00-06-02-006C (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Coolant Reimbursement Policy
General Motors supports the use of recycled engine coolant for warranty repairs/service, providing
a GM approved engine coolant recycling system is used. Recycled coolant will be reimbursed at
the GMSPO dealer price for new coolant plus the appropriate mark-up. When coolant replacement
is required during a warranty repair, it is crucial that only the relative amount of engine coolant
concentrate be charged, not the total diluted volume. In other words: if you are using two gallons of
pre-diluted (50:50) recycled engine coolant to service a vehicle, you may request reimbursement
for one gallon of GM Goodwrench engine coolant concentrate at the dealer price plus the
appropriate warranty parts handling allowance.
Licensed Approved DEX-COOL(R) Providers
Important:
USE OF NON-APPROVED VIRGIN OR RECYCLED DEX-COOL(R) OR DEVIATIONS IN THE
FORM OF ALTERNATE CHEMICALS OR ALTERATION OF EQUIPMENT, WILL VOID THE GM
ENDORSEMENT, MAY DEGRADE COOLANT SYSTEM INTEGRITY AND PLACE THE
COOLING SYSTEM WARRANTY UNDER JEOPARDY.
Shown in Table 1 are the only current licensed and approved providers of DEX-COOL(R). Products
that are advertised as "COMPATIBLE" or "RECOMMENDED" for use with DEX-COOL(R) have not
been tested or approved by General Motors. Non-approved coolants may degrade the
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye > Page 1842
coolant system integrity and will no longer be considered a 5 yr/150,000 mile (240,000 km) coolant.
Coolant Removal Services/Recycling
The tables include all coolant recycling processes currently approved by GM. Also included is a
primary phone number and demographic information. Used DEX-COOL(R) can be combined with
used conventional coolant (green) for recycling. Depending on the recycling service and/or
equipment, it is then designated as a conventional 2 yr/30,000 mile (50,000 km) coolant or
DEX-COOL(R) 5 yr/150,000 mile (240,000 km) coolant. Recycled coolants as designated in this
bulletin may be used during the vehicle(s) warranty period.
DEX-COOL(R) Recycling
The DEX-COOL(R) recycling service listed in Table 2 has been approved for recycling waste
engine coolants (DEX-COOL) or conventional) to DEX-COOL(R) with 5 yr/150,000 mile (240,000
km) usability. Recycling Fluid Technologies is the only licensed provider of Recycled
DEX-COOL(R) meeting GM6277M specifications and utilizes GM approved inhibitor packages.
This is currently a limited program being monitored by GM Service Operations which will be
expanded as demand increases.
Conventional (Green) Recycling
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye > Page 1843
Processes shown in the Table 3 are capable of recycling waste engine coolants (DEX-COOL(R) or
conventional) to a conventional (green) coolant. Recycling conventional coolant can be
accomplished at your facility by a technician using approved EQUIPMENT (listed by model number
in Table 3), or by an approved coolant recycling SERVICE which may recycle the coolant at your
facility or at an offsite operation. Refer to the table for GM approved coolant recyclers in either of
these two categories. Should you decide to recycle the coolant yourself, strict adherence to the
operating procedures is imperative. Use ONLY the inhibitor chemicals supplied by the respective
(GM approved) recycling equipment manufacturer.
Sealing Tablets
Cooling System Sealing Tablets (Seal Tabs) should not be used as a regular maintenance item
after servicing an engine cooling system. Discoloration of coolant can occur if too many seal tabs
have been inserted into the cooling system. This can occur if seal tabs are repeatedly used over
the service life of a vehicle. Where appropriate, seal tabs may be used if diagnostics fail to repair a
small leak in the cooling system. When a condition appears in which seal tabs may be
recommended, a specific bulletin will be released describing their proper usage.
Water Quality
The integrity of the coolant is dependent upon the quality of DEX-COOL(R) and water.
DEX-COOL(R) is a product that has enhanced protection capability as well as an extended service
interval. These enhanced properties may be jeopardized by combining DEX-COOL(R) with poor
quality water. If you suspect the water in your area of being poor quality, it is recommended you
use distilled or de-ionized water with DEX-COOL(R).
"Pink" DEX-COOL(R)
DEX-COOL(R) is orange in color to distinguish it from other coolants. Due to inconsistencies in the
mixing of the dyes used with DEX-COOL(R), some batches may appear pink after time. The color
shift from orange to pink does not affect the integrity of the coolant, and still maintains the 5
yr/150,000 mile (240,000 km) service interval.
Back Service
Only use DEX-COOL(R) if the vehicle was originally equipped with DEX-COOL(R).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye > Page 1844
Contamination
Mixing conventional green coolant with DEX-COOL(R) will degrade the service interval from 5
yrs./150,000 miles (240,000 km) to 2 yrs./30,000 miles (50,000 km) if left in the contaminated
condition. If contamination occurs, the cooling system must be flushed twice immediately and
re-filled with a 50/50 mixture of DEX-COOL(R) and clean water in order to preserve the enhanced
properties and extended service interval of DEX-COOL(R).
After 5 years/150,000 miles (240,000 km)
After 5 yrs/150,000 miles (240,000 km), the coolant should be changed, preferably using a coolant
exchanger. If the vehicle was originally equipped with DEX-COOL(R) and has not had problems
with contamination from non-DEX-COOL(R) coolants, then the service interval remains the same,
and the coolant does not need to be changed for another 5 yrs/150,000 miles (240,000 km)
Equipment (Coolant Exchangers)
The preferred method of performing coolant replacement is to use a coolant exchanger. A coolant
exchanger can replace virtually all of the old coolant with new coolant. Coolant exchangers can be
used to perform coolant replacement without spillage, and facilitate easy waste collection. They
can also be used to lower the coolant level in a vehicle to allow for less messy servicing of cooling
system components. It is recommended that you use a coolant exchanger with a vacuum feature
facilitates removing trapped air from the cooling system. This is a substantial time savings over
repeatedly thermo cycling the vehicle and topping-off the radiator. The vacuum feature also allows
venting of a hot system to relieve system pressure. Approved coolant exchangers are available
through the GMDE (General Motors Dealer Equipment) program.
For refilling a cooling system that has been partially or fully drained for repairs other than coolant
replacement, the Vac-N-Fill Coolant Refill Tool (GE-47716) is recommended to facilitate removal of
trapped air from the cooling system during refill.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications
Coolant: Capacity Specifications
Capacity ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. 12.9 liters (13.6 qt)
ENGINE COOLANT
A 50/50 mixture of clean water (preferably distilled) and use only GM Goodwrench(R)
DEX-COOL(R) or Havoline(R) DEX-COOL(R) (orange-colored, silicate-free) coolant, conforming to
GM Specification 6277M.
CAUTIONS: ^
The use of sealing pellets (or similar compounds) in the coolant system is NOT recommended.The
use of sealing pellets may restrict the flow of coolant through the throttle body or other engine
cooling system components.
^ If silicate coolant is added to the cooling system, premature engine, heater core or radiator
corrosion may result. In addition, the coolant will require change SOONER, at 50 000 km (30,000
miles) or 24 months.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications > Page 1847
Coolant: Fluid Type Specifications
ENGINE COOLANT
A 50/50 mixture of clean water (preferably distilled) and use only GM Goodwrench(R)
DEX-COOL(R) or Havoline(R) DEX-COOL(R) (orange-colored, silicate-free) coolant, or an
approved recycled coolant conforming to GM Specification 6038-M (GM P/N 1052103).
CAUTION: If silicate coolant is added to the cooling system, premature engine, heater core or
radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the coolant will require change SOONER, at 50 000 km
(30,000 miles) or 24 months.
NOTE: With a complete flush and refill it is recommended to add Engine Coolant Supplement
Sealer, (GM P/N 3634621 or equivalent).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1848
Coolant: Description and Operation
MANUFACTURE RECOMMENDATION
This vehicle was manufactured with GM Goodwrench DEX-COOL. DEX-COOL was developed to
last for 240,000 km (150,000 miles) or 5 years whichever occurs first. Make sure only GM
Goodwrench DEX-COOL is used when coolant is added or changed. A 50/50 mixture of ethylene
glycol (DEX-COOL) and water will provide the following: ^
Freezing protection down to -37°C (-34°F).
^ Boiling protection up to 129°C (265°F).
^ Help keep the proper engine temperature.
^ Rust and corrosion protection.
^ Allow the sensors and switches to operate as designed.
CAUTION: Do not use a solution stronger than 70 percent antifreeze. Pure antifreeze will freeze at
-22°C (-8°F).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1849
Coolant: Testing and Inspection
TOOL REQUIRED
^ J 26568 or J 23688 Coolant Tester, Do not remove the clear plastic pump from the tester.
CONCENTRATION TESTING
1. Release the tip of the pump from the coolant tester housing. 2. Insert the tip of the pump into, the
surge tank.
^ Make sure the tip of the pump is below the level of the coolant.
3. Press and release the bulb to get a sample. 4. Insert the tip of the pump into the cover plate
opening. 5. Press the bulb land allow a few drops to fall onto the measuring surface.
^ Do not open the plastic cover when taking readings because water evaporation can change the
readings.
6. Point the coolant tester toward any light and look into the eyepiece.
^ Coolant protection reading is at the point where the dividing line between light and dark crosses
the scale (anti-freeze protection is the scale on the right).
^ Temperature scale is reversed from a standard thermometer scale.
^ Below zero readings are on the upper half of the scale.
^ If the readings are not clear, the measuring surface was not cleaned, and dried properly. Wipe
dry and make a new test.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1850
Coolant: Tools and Equipment
CAUTION: Coolant testers J 26568 (Centigrade Scale) and J 23688 (Fahrenheit Scale) can be
used to check the antifreeze protection of the coolant. Make sure the refractometer markings are
correct. Unless J 26568 or J 23688 has a provision for temperature correction, test the temperature
at which testers are calibrated. If the, coolant is warmer or cooler the reading may be incorrect.
Follow the manufacturer's directions on tester being used.
^ Before each use lift up the plastic cover at the slanted end of J 26568 or J 23688, exposing the
measuring window and the bottom of the plastic cover.
^ Wipe the window wish a tissue or a clean soft cloth.
^ Close plastic cover.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information
Fluid - A/T: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-037E
Date: April 07, 2011
Subject: Release of DEXRON(R)-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)
Models:
2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2003-2008 HUMMER H2 2006-2008
HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saturn Relay 2005 and Prior Saturn L-Series 2005-2007 Saturn ION
2005-2008 Saturn VUE with 4T45-E 2005-2008 Saab 9-7X Except 2008 and Prior Chevrolet Aveo,
Equinox Except 2006 and Prior Chevrolet Epica Except 2007 and Prior Chevrolet Optra Except
2008 and Prior Pontiac Torrent, Vibe, Wave Except 2003-2005 Saturn ION with CVT or AF23 Only
Except 1991-2002 Saturn S-Series Except 2008 and Prior Saturn VUE with CVT, AF33 or 5AT
(MJ7/MJ8) Transmission Only Except 2008 Saturn Astra
Attention:
DEXRON(R)-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) is the only approved fluid for warranty repairs
for General Motors transmissions/transaxles requiring DEXRON(R)-III and/or prior DEXRON(R)
transmission fluids.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-037D (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS / TRANSFER CASES and POWER STEERING
The content of this bulletin does not apply to manual transmissions or transfer cases. Any vehicle
that previously required DEXRON(R)-III for a manual transmission or transfer case should now use
P/N 88861800. This fluid is labeled Manual Transmission and Transfer Case Fluid. Some manual
transmissions and transfer cases require a different fluid. Appropriate references should be
checked when servicing any of these components.
Power Steering Systems should now use P/N 9985010 labeled Power Steering Fluid.
Consult the Parts Catalog, Owner's Manual, or Service Information (SI) for fluid recommendations.
Some of our customers and/or General Motors dealerships/Saturn Retailers may have some
concerns with DEXRON(R)-VI and DEXRON(R)-III Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) and
transmission warranty claims. DEXRON(R)-VI is the only approved fluid for warranty repairs for
General Motors transmissions/transaxles requiring DEXRON(R)-III and/or prior DEXRON(R)
transmission fluids (except as noted above). Please remember that the clean oil reservoirs of the
J-45096 - Flushing and Flow Tester machine should be purged of DEXRON(R)-III and filled with
DEXRON(R)-VI for testing, flushing or filling General Motors transmissions/transaxles (except as
noted above).
DEXRON(R)-VI can be used in any proportion in past model vehicles equipped with an automatic
transmission/transaxle in place of DEXRON(R)-III (i.e. topping off the fluid in the event of a repair
or fluid change). DEXRON(R)-VI is also compatible with any former version of DEXRON(R) for use
in automatic transmissions/transaxles.
DEXRON(R)-VI ATF
General Motors Powertrain has upgraded to DEXRON(R)-VI ATF with the start of 2006 vehicle
production.
Current and prior automatic transmission models that had used DEXRON(R)-III must now only use
DEXRON(R)-VI.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information > Page 1855
All 2006 and future model transmissions that use DEXRON(R)-VI are to be serviced ONLY with
DEXRON(R)-VI fluid.
DEXRON(R)-VI is an improvement over DEXRON(R)-III in the following areas:
* These ATF change intervals remain the same as DEXRON(R)-III for the time being.
2006-2008 Transmission Fill and Cooler Flushing
Some new applications of the 6L80 six speed transmission will require the use of the J 45096 Flushing and Flow Tester to accomplish transmission fluid fill. The clean oil reservoir of the
machine should be purged of DEXRON(R)-III and filled with DEXRON(R)-VI.
Parts Information
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information > Page 1856
Fluid - A/T: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Water Or Coolant Contamination Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-07-30-035B
Date: November 01, 2010
Subject: Information on Water or Ethylene Glycol in Transmission Fluid
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks with Automatic Transmission
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 08-07-30-035A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Water or ethylene glycol in automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is harmful to internal transmission
components and will have a negative effect on reliability and durability of these parts. Water or
ethylene glycol in ATF will also change the friction of the clutches, frequently resulting in shudder
during engagement or gear changes, especially during torque converter clutch engagement.
Indications of water in the ATF may include:
- ATF blowing out of the transmission vent tube.
- ATF may appear cloudy or, in cases of extreme contamination, have the appearance of a
strawberry milkshake.
- Visible water in the oil pan.
- A milky white substance inside the pan area.
- Spacer plate gaskets that appear to be glued to the valve body face or case.
- Spacer plate gaskets that appear to be swollen or wrinkled in areas where they are not
compressed.
- Rust on internal transmission iron/steel components.
If water in the ATF has been found and the source of the water entry has not been identified, or if a
leaking in-radiator transmission oil cooler is suspected (with no evidence of cross-contamination in
the coolant recovery reservoir), a simple and quick test kit is available that detects the presence of
ethylene glycol in ATF. The "Gly-Tek" test kit, available from the Nelco Company, should be
obtained and the ATF tested to make an accurate decision on the need for radiator replacement.
This can help to prevent customer comebacks if the in-radiator transmission oil cooler is leaking
and reduce repair expenses by avoiding radiator replacement if the cooler is not leaking. These
test kits can be obtained from:
Nelco Company
Test kits can be ordered by phone or through the website listed above. Orders are shipped
standard delivery time but can be shipped on a next day delivery basis for an extra charge. One
test kit will complete 10 individual fluid sample tests. For vehicles repaired under warranty, the cost
of the complete test kit plus shipping charges should be divided by 10 and submitted on the
warranty claim as a net item.
The transmission should be repaired or replaced based on the normal cost comparison procedure.
Important If water or coolant is found in the transmission, the following components MUST be
replaced.
- Replace all of the rubber-type seals.
- Replace all of the composition-faced clutch plates and/or bands.
- Replace all of the nylon parts.
- Replace the torque converter.
- Thoroughly clean and rebuild the transmission, using new gaskets and oil filter.
Important The following steps must be completed when repairing or replacing.
Flush and flow check the transmission oil cooler using J 45096. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
02-07-30-052F- Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Flush and Flow Test Essential Tool J 45096
TransFlow.
- Thoroughly inspect the engine cooling system and hoses and clean/repair as necessary.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information > Page 1857
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information > Page 1858
Fluid - A/T: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Fluid Level Checking And Fill Procedure Revised
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 63-71-06
Date: March, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 7A - Revised 4T40E Fluid Level Checking and Fill Procedure
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier, Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1997 Pontiac Sunfire
This bulletin is being issued to revise the 4T40E fluid level checking and fill procedure in Section
7A of the Service Manual. The following procedure should be used for the above listed vehicles.
4T40E Fluid Level Checking and Fill Procedure
The fluid level screw is intended to be used for diagnosing a transaxle fluid leak or resetting the
transaxle fluid level after service that involves a loss of fluid.
Inspect
The fluid level should be checked when the transaxle is near 40° C (104° F). A vehicle at room
temperature can be brought to 40° C (104° F) by performing the following procedure.
Caution:
Removal of the fluid level screw when transaxle fluid is hot may cause injury. Use care to avoid
contact with the fluid and to avoid transaxle fluid splashing on to the exhaust pipe.
The engine must be running when the transaxle fluid level screw is removed, or excessive fluid loss
will occur. Transaxle fluid may be hot. Since the actual fluid level is unknown, stand clear when
removing the fluid level screw. Have a container ready to capture any lost fluid. DO NOT TURN
THE ENGINE OFF WITH THE FLUID LEVEL SCREW REMOVED AS YOU CAN BE INJURED BY
HOT TRANSAXLE FLUID BEING EXPELLED OUT OF THE FLUID CHECK HOLE.
1. Let vehicle idle for three to five minutes with accessories off.
2. Apply brake.
3. Move shift lever through all gear ranges, pausing three seconds in each range.
4. Place shift lever in Park.
Important:
Vehicle must be kept level on the hoist.
5. Raise vehicle on hoist. Refer to "General Information".
6. Place oil container under fluid level screw.
7. Remove the fluid level screw with engine running at idle.
8. Fluid level should be at the bottom of fluid check hole. Because the transaxle operates correctly
over a range of fluid levels, fluid may or may not drain out of the fluid check hole when the fluid
level screw is removed. If fluid drains through the fluid check hole, this transaxle may have been
overfilled. When fluid stops draining, the fluid level is correct and the fluid level screw may be
installed. If fluid does not drain through the fluid check hole, the transaxle fluid level may be low.
Proceed to Adding Transaxle Fluid.
9. Install fluid level screw.
Tighten
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information > Page 1859
Tighten 12 N.m (106 lb in.).
10. Lower vehicle.
11. Shut off engine.
Adding Transaxle Fluid
With the engine running, add fluid (DEXRON(R)-III) at the vent cap location in half liter (1 pint)
increments until fluid drains through the fluid check hole. Allow the fluid to finish draining through
the fluid check hole.
1. Install fluid level screw.
Tighten
Tighten 12 N.m (106 lb in.).
2. Lower vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications
Fluid - A/T: Capacity Specifications
AUTOMATIC 4T40-E Bottom Pan Removal ........................................................................................
......................................................................................... 7.0 liters (7.4 qts) Complete Overhaul .......
..............................................................................................................................................................
........... 10.0 liters (10.6 qts)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications > Page 1862
Fluid - A/T: Fluid Type Specifications
DEXRON-III Automatic Transmission Fluid (or equivalent).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Transaxle Oil Information
Fluid - A/T: Testing and Inspection Transaxle Oil Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Transaxle Oil Information > Page 1865
Checking oil level, color and condition at regular intervals will provide early diagnosis information
about the transaxle. This information may then be used to correct a condition that, if not detected
early, could result in major transaxle repairs.
When adding or changing oil, use only DEXRON(R) III. Refer to Maintenance for maintenance
information and servicing intervals.
IMPORTANT: When new, automatic transmission oil is red in color. The red dye is to distinguish it
from engine oil or anti-freeze. The red dye is not an indicator of oil quality and is not permanent. As
the vehicle is driven the transmission oil will begin to look darker in color. The color may eventually
appear light brown. A dark brown color with a burnt odor may indicate oil deterioration and signal a
need for a transaxle oil change.
NOTICE: Do not overfill. Overfilling will cause foaming, loss of oil and possible damage to the
transaxle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Transaxle Oil Information > Page 1866
Fluid - A/T: Testing and Inspection Transaxle Oil Level Checking Procedure
4T40E Oil Level Checking and Fill Procedure
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Transaxle Oil Information > Page 1867
NOTE: The fluid level screw is intended to be used for diagnosing a transaxle fluid leak or resetting
the transaxle fluid level after service that involves a loss of fluid.
Inspect The fluid level should be checked when the transaxle is near room temperature or at 40°C
(104° F).
CAUTION: Removal of the fluid level screw when the transaxle fluid is hot may cause injury. Use
care to avoid contact of transaxle fluid to exhaust pipe.
1. Engine OFF. 2. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. 3. Place oil container under check plug.
4. Remove oil check plug.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Transaxle Oil Information > Page 1868
5. Oil level should be at bottom of oil check hole. Because the transaxle operates correctly over a
range of fluid levels, fluid may or may not drain out
of the screw hole when the screw is removed.
Adding Transaxle Oil
Important: If fluid drains through the screw hole the transaxle may have been overfilled. When fluid
stops draining the fluid level is correct and check plug may be installed. If fluid does not drain
through the screw hole the transaxle fluid level may have been low. Add fluid at the vent cap
location in half liter (1 pint) increments until oil level is at the bottom of oil check hole.
1. Install oil check plug.
Tighten 14 Nm (124 inch lbs.).
2. Lower vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Transaxle Oil Information > Page 1869
Fluid - A/T: Testing and Inspection Fluid Level Service Procedure
You will use the fluid level screw (2) for diagnosing a transmission fluid leak or for resetting the
transmission fluid level after service that involves a loss of fluid.
Fluid Level Diagnosis Procedure Check the fluid level when the transmission is above 40° C (104°
F). This temperature can be reached by performing the following procedure:
1. Park the vehicle on a hoist, inspection pit, or similar raised level surface. The vehicle must be
level to obtain a correct fluid level measurement. 2. Place a fluid container below the fluid level
screw (2). 3. Start the engine and allow the engine to idle for approximately 5 minutes, or, if
possible, drive the vehicle for a few miles to warm the transmission
fluid.
4. Depress the brake pedal and move the shift lever through the gear ranges, pausing a few
seconds in each range. Return the shift lever to the Park
position.
5. Remove the fluid level screw (2). Because the transmission operates correctly over a range of
fluid levels, fluid may or may not drain out of the
screw hole when the screw is removed.
CAUTION: Do not remove the fluid level screw if the transmission fluid is hot this may cause injury
if the fluid drains from the screw hole.
- If fluid drains through the screw hole, the transmission may have been overfilled. When the fluid
stops draining, the fluid level is correct. Install the fluid level screw (2) and torque to the proper
specification (12 Nm).
- If fluid does not drain through the screw hole (2), the transmission fluid level may be low. Add fluid
through the fill cap (1) hole in 0.5-liter increments, up to 1.5 liters maximum, until fluid drains
through the screw hole. If fluid drains through the screw hole, the fluid level was in the correct
operating range. Allow the fluid to finish draining through the screw hole and install the fluid level
screw. Torque the fluid level screw to the proper specification (12 Nm).
- If fluid does not drain through the screw hold after adding a total of 1.5 liters, then the
transmission was either underfilled or the transmission is leaking fluid. Inspect the transmission for
fluid leaks. Fix any leaks before setting the transmission fluid level.
6. When the fluid level checking procedure is completed, wipe any fluid from the transmission case
with a rag or shop towel. also, check, that the
fluid fill cap (1) and the vent tube are properly installed.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Transaxle Oil Information > Page 1870
Fluid - A/T: Testing and Inspection Fluid Level Set After Service
After service, set the fluid level according to the following procedure.
1. Add fluid through the fill cap hole prior to adjusting the fluid level. The amount of fluid to add
should be based on the table at the end of this
procedure.
2. Follow steps 1-4 of the FLUID LEVEL DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE. 3. Add additional fluid
through the fill cap (1) hole in 0.5-liter (1-pint) increments until the fluid comes out through the
screw hole. 4. Allow the fluid to finish draining out through the screw hole, then install the fluid level
screw (2) and torque the screw to the proper specification
(12 Nm).
5. When the fluid level setting procedure is completed, wipe any fluid from the transmission case
with a rag or shop towel. Also, check that the fluid
fill cap (1) and the vent tube are properly installed.
Bottom Pan Removal (On Vehicle)
............................................................................................................................................. 7 Liters
(7.4 Quarts) New Converter ................................................................................................................
.......................................................... 2.5 Liters (2.6 Quarts) Complete Overhaul ...............................
................................................................................................................................... 10 Liters (10.6
Quarts)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Page 1871
Fluid - A/T: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle and support the vehicle. 2. Place drain pan under transaxle oil pan. 3. Oil pan bolts
from the front and sides only. 4. Loosen rear oil pan bolts approximately 4 turns.
NOTICE: Do not damage the transaxle case or oil pan sealing surfaces.
5. Lightly tap oil pan with rubber mallet or pry to allow oil to drain.
Inspect
- Inspect oil color.
- Refer to CHECKING OIL COLOR, LEVEL AND CONDITION.
6. Remaining oil pan bolts, oil pan and gasket. 7. Oil filter and O-ring.
Inspect
- O-ring may be stuck in the case.
Clean
- Transaxle case and oil pan gasket surfaces with solvent and air dry. All traces of old gasket
material must be removed.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Coat seal with a small amount of TRANSJEL(R) J 36850 or equivalent. 2. New seal into case. 3.
New filter into case. 4. Oil pan and new gasket. 5. Oil pan bolts, refer to FASTENER TIGHTENING
SPECIFICATIONS.
Inspect
- Refer to VALVE BODY COVER AND OIL PAN BOLTS for inspection of bolts and washers.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Page 1872
- Use adhesive/sealant compound GM P/N 12345382 or equivalent to reduce the potential for oil
leaks on indicated bolt.
6. Lower vehicle. 7. Fill transaxle to proper level with DEXRON III oil.
Adjust
- Cold oil level reading for initial fill. Do not overfill.
8. Follow the TRANSAXLE OIL LEVEL CHECKING PROCEDURE.
Inspect
- Check oil pan gasket for leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Engine - GM dexos 1 and dexos 2(R) Oil Specifications
Engine Oil: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - GM dexos 1 and dexos 2(R) Oil Specifications
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 11-00-90-001
Date: March 14, 2011
Subject: Global Information for GM dexos1(TM) and GM dexos2(TM) Engine Oil Specifications for
Spark Ignited and Diesel Engines, Available Licensed Brands, and Service Fill for Adding or
Complete Oil Change
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks Excluding All Vehicles Equipped with
Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines
GM dexos 1(TM) Information Center Website
Refer to the following General Motors website for dexos 1(TM) information about the different
licensed brands that are currently available: http://www.gmdexos.com
GM dexos 1(TM) Engine Oil Trademark and Icons
The dexos(TM) specification and trademarks are exclusive to General Motors, LLC.
Only those oils displaying the dexos‹›(TM) trademark and icon on the front label meet the
demanding performance requirements and stringent quality standards set forth in the dexos‹›(TM)
specification.
Look on the front label for any of the logos shown above to identify an authorized, licensed dexos
1(TM) engine oil.
GM dexos 1(TM) Engine Oil Specification
Important General Motors dexos 1(TM) engine oil specification replaces the previous General
Motors specifications GM6094M, GM4718M and GM-LL-A-025 for most GM gasoline engines. The
oil specified for use in GM passenger cars and trucks, PRIOR to the 2011 model year remains
acceptable for those previous vehicles. However, dexos 1(TM) is backward compatible and can be
used in those older vehicles.
In North America, starting with the 2011 model year, GM introduced dexos 1(TM) certified engine
oil as a factory fill and service fill for gasoline engines. The reasons for the new engine oil
specification are as follows:
- To meet environmental goals such as increasing fuel efficiency and reducing engine emissions.
- To promote long engine life.
- To minimize the number of engine oil changes in order to help meet the goal of lessening the
industry's overall dependence on crude oil.
dexos 1(TM) is a GM-developed engine oil specification that has been designed to provide the
following benefits:
- Further improve fuel economy, to meet future corporate average fuel economy (CAFE)
requirements and fuel economy retention by allowing the oil to maintain its fuel economy benefits
throughout the life of the oil.
- More robust formulations for added engine protection and aeration performance.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Engine - GM dexos 1 and dexos 2(R) Oil Specifications > Page 1877
- Support the GM Oil Life System, thereby minimizing the replacement of engine oil, before its life
has been depleted.
- Reduce the duplication of requirements for a large number of internal GM engine oil
specifications.
International Lubricants Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC)
GF-5 Standard
In addition to GM dexos 1(TM), a new International Lubricants Standardization and Approval
Committee (ILSAC) standard called GF-5, was introduced in October 2010.
- There will be a corresponding API category, called: SN Resource Conserving. The current GF-4
standard was put in place in 2004 and will become obsolete in October 2011. Similar to dexos
1(TM), the GF-5 standard will use a new fuel economy test, Sequence VID, which demands a
statistically significant increase in fuel economy versus the Sequence VIB test that was used for
GF-4.
- It is expected that all dexos 1(TM) approved oils will be capable of meeting the GF-5 standard.
However, not all GF-5 engine oils will be capable of meeting the dexos 1(TM) specification.
- Like dexos(TM), the new ILSAC GF-5 standard will call for more sophisticated additives. The API
will begin licensing marketers during October 2010, to produce and distribute GF-5 certified
products, which are expected to include SAE 0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-20, 5W-30 and 10W-30 oils.
Corporate Average Fuel Economy (CAFE) Requirements Effect on Fuel Economy
Since CAFE standards were first introduced in 1974, the fuel economy of cars has more than
doubled, while the fuel economy of light trucks has increased by more than 50 percent. Proposed
CAFE standards call for a continuation of increased fuel economy in new cars and trucks. To meet
these future requirements, all aspects of vehicle operation are being looked at more critically than
ever before.
New technology being introduced in GM vehicles designed to increase vehicle efficiency and fuel
economy include direct injection, cam phasing, turbocharging and active fuel management (AFM).
The demands of these new technologies on engine oil also are taken into consideration when
determining new oil specifications. AFM for example can help to achieve improved fuel economy.
However alternately deactivating and activating the cylinders by not allowing the intake and
exhaust valves to open contributes to additional stress on the engine oil.
Another industry trend for meeting tough fuel economy mandates has been a shift toward lower
viscosity oils.
dexos 1(TM) will eventually be offered in several viscosity grades in accordance with engine needs:
SAE 0W-20, 5W-20, 0W-30 and 5W-30.
Using the right viscosity grade oil is critical for proper engine performance. Always refer to the
Maintenance section of a vehicle Owner Manual for the proper viscosity grade for the engine being
serviced.
GM Oil Life System in Conjunction With dexos (TM) Supports Extended Oil Change Intervals
To help conserve oil while maintaining engine protection, many GM vehicles are equipped with the
GM Oil Life System. This system can provide oil change intervals that exceed the traditional 3,000
mile (4,830 km) recommendation.
The dexos (TM) specification, with its requirements for improved oil robustness, compliments the
GM Oil Life System by supporting extended oil change intervals over the lifetime of a vehicle.
If all GM customers with GM Oil Life System equipped vehicles would use the system as intended,
GM estimates that more than 100 million gallons of oil could be saved annually.
GM dexos 2(TM) Information Center Website
Refer to the following General Motors website for dexos 2(TM) information about the different
licensed brands that are currently available: http://www.gmdexos.com
GM dexos 2(TM) Engine Oil Trademark and Icons
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Engine - GM dexos 1 and dexos 2(R) Oil Specifications > Page 1878
The dexos (TM) specification and trademarks are exclusive to General Motors, LLC.
Only those oils displaying the dexos (TM) trademark and icon on the front label meet the
demanding performance requirements and stringent quality standards set forth in the dexos
(TM)specification.
Look on the front label for any of the logos shown above to identify an authorized, licensed dexos
2(TM) engine oil.
GM dexos 2(TM) Engine Oil Specification
- dexos 2(TM) is approved and recommended by GM for use in Europe starting in model year 2010
vehicles, regardless of where the vehicle was manufactured.
- dexos 2(TM) is the recommended service fill oil for European gasoline engines.
Important The Duramax(TM) diesel engine is the exception and requires lubricants meeting
specification CJ-4.
- dexos 2(TM) is the recommended service fill oil for European light-duty diesel engines and
replaces GM-LL-B-025 and GM-LL-A-025.
- dexos 2(TM) protects diesel engines from harmful soot deposits and is designed with limits on
certain chemical components to prolong catalyst life and protect expensive emission reduction
systems. It is a robust oil, resisting degradation between oil changes and maintaining optimum
performance longer.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications
Engine Oil: Capacity Specifications
Capacity (with filter) .............................................................................................................................
....................................................... 3.78 liters (4 qt)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications > Page 1881
Engine Oil: Fluid Type Specifications
Below 60°F (16°C) ...............................................................................................................................
............................................................. SAE 5W-30 Above 0°F (-18°C) .............................................
........................................................................................................................... SAE 10W-30
(Preferred)
Engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engine "Starburst" symbol
of the proper viscosity.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1882
Engine Oil: Service and Repair
Once the origin of the leak has been pinpointed and traced back to its source, the cause of the leak
must be determined in order for it to be repaired properly. If a gasket is replaced, but the sealing
surface is damaged, the new gasket will not repair the leak, the surface must be repaired or
replaced. Before attempting to repair a leak, be sure that the gasket and sealing surfaces are
correct.
Perform The Following Steps In Order To Check For Gasket Leaks:
1. Inspect the fluid level/pressure is too high. 2. Check the crankcase ventilation system for
restrictions or malfunctioning components. 3. Inspect for improperly tightened fasteners or
dirty/damaged threads. 4. Look for warped flanges or sealing surfaces. 5. Check for scratches,
burrs or other damage to the sealing surface. 6. Look for a damaged or worn gasket. 7. Check for
cracking or porosity of the component 8. Check for use of an improper sealant used (where
applicable).
Perform The Following Steps In Order To Check For Seal Leaks:
1. Inspect the fluid level/pressure is too high. 2. Check the crankcase ventilation system for
restrictions or malfunctioning components. 3. Check for a damaged O-ring seal bore (scratched,
burred or nicked). 4. Look for a damaged or worn oil seal. 5. Check for improper component
installation. 6. Check the component for cracks or damage. 7. Inspect shaft surface for scratches,
nicks or damage. 8. Check for loose or worn bearing which may lead to premature oil seal wear.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Power Steering Fluid > Component Information > Specifications
Power Steering Fluid: Specifications
Lubricants:
GM Power Steering Fluid 1050017 or Equivalent GM Cold Climate Power Steering Fluid GM P/N
12345866 or Equivalent
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment
Refrigerant: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment
Bulletin No.: 08-01-38-001
Date: January 25, 2008
INFORMATION
Subject: Information On New GE-48800 CoolTech Refrigerant Recovery/Recharge Equipment
Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Including Saturn) 2008 and
Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2005-2008 Saab 9-7X
Attention:
This bulletin is being issued to announce the release of GM approved Air Conditioning (A/C)
Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging Equipment that meets the new Society of Automotive
Engineers (SAE) J2788 Refrigerant Recovery Standards. The ACR2000 (J-43600) cannot be
manufactured in its current state after December 2007 and will be superseded by GE-48800.
The new J2788 standard does not require that GM Dealers replace their ACR2000 units.
ACR2000's currently in use are very capable of servicing today's refrigerant systems when used
correctly and can continue to be used. Details regarding the new SAE J2788 standard are outlined
in GM Bulletin 07-01-38-004.
Effective February 1 2008, new A/C Refrigerant Recovery/Recharging equipment (P/N GE-48800)
will be released as a required replacement for the previously essential ACR2000 (J-43600). This
equipment is SAE J2788 compliant and meets GM requirements for A/C Refrigerant System
Repairs on all General Motors vehicles, including Hybrid systems with Polyolester (POE)
refrigerant oil. This equipment will not be shipped as an essential tool to GM Dealerships.
In addition, this equipment is Hybrid compliant and designed to prevent oil cross contamination
when servicing Hybrid vehicles with Electric A/C Compressors that use POE refrigerant oil.
The ACR2000 (J-43600) will need to be retrofitted with a J-43600-50 (Hose - ACR2000 Oil Flush
Loop) to be able to perform Hybrid A/C service work. All Hybrid dealers will receive the J-43600-50,
with installation instructions, as a component of the Hybrid essential tool package. Dealerships that
do not sell Hybrids, but may need to service Hybrids, can obtain J-43600-50 from SPX Kent Moore.
Refer to GM Bulletin 08-01-39-001 for the ACR2000 Hose Flush procedure.
The High Voltage (HV) electric A/C compressor used on Two Mode Hybrid vehicles uses a
Polyolester (POE) refrigerant oil instead of a Polyalkylene Glycol (PAG) synthetic refrigerant oil.
This is due to the better electrical resistance of the POE oil and its ability to provide HV isolation.
Failure to flush the hoses before adding refrigerant to a Hybrid vehicle with an electric A/C
compressor may result in an unacceptable amount of PAG oil entering the refrigerant system. It
may cause a Battery Energy Control Module Hybrid Battery Voltage System Isolation Lost
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC P1AE7) to be set. Additionally, the A/C system warranty will be
voided.
Warranty Submission Requirements
The Electronically Generated Repair Data (snapshot summary) and printer functions have been
eliminated from the GE-48800. The VGA display and temperature probes were eliminated to
reduce equipment costs. As a result, effective immediately the 18 digit "Snapshot/Charge
Summary" code is no longer required for Air Conditioning (A/C) refrigerant system repairs that are
submitted for warranty reimbursement. The charge summary data from before and after system
repairs will continue to required, but documented on the repair order only. Both high and low
pressures and the recovery and charge amounts should be noted during the repair and entered on
the repair order. If using ACR2000 (J-43600), the "Snapshot/Charge Summary" printouts should
continue to be attached to the shops copy of the repair order.
The labor codes that are affected by this requirement are D3000 through D4500.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment > Page 1890
Refrigerant: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Contaminated R134A Refrigerant
Bulletin No.: 06-01-39-007
Date: July 25, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Contaminated R134a Refrigerant Found on Market for Automotive Air-Conditioning
Systems
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2007 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2007 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Attention:
This bulletin should be directed to the Service Manager as well as the Parts Manager.
Commercially Available Contaminated R134a Refrigerant
Impurities have been found in new commercially available containers of R134a. High levels of
contaminates may cause decreased performance, and be detrimental to some air-conditioning
components. Accompanying these contaminates has been high levels of moisture.
Tip:
Excessive moisture may cause system concerns such as orifice tube freeze-up and reduced
performance.
Industry Reaction: New Industry Purity Standards
Due to the potential availability of these lower quality refrigerants, the Society of Automotive
Engineers (SAE), and the Air Conditioning and Refrigeration Industry (ARI) are in the process of
instituting reliable standards that will be carried on the labels of future R134a refrigerant containers.
This identifying symbol will be your assurance of a product that conforms to the minimum standard
for OEM Automotive Air-Conditioning use.
How Can You Protect Yourself Today?
It is recommended to use GM or ACDelco(R) sourced refrigerants for all A/C repair work. These
refrigerants meet General Motors own internal standards for quality and purity, insuring that your
completed repairs are as good as the way it left the factory.
Parts Information
The part numbers shown are available through GMSPO or ACDelco(R). The nearest ACDelco(R)
distributor in your area can be found by calling 1-800-223-3526 (U.S. Only).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment > Page 1891
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment > Page 1892
Refrigerant: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recharge Equipment
File In Section: 01 - HVAC
Bulletin No.: 99-01-38-006A
Date: May, 2000
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Subject: J-43600 ACR 2000 Essential Refrigerant Recovery/Recharge Equipment
Models: 1993-2000 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks with R-134a Refrigerant
This bulletin is being revised to change the effective date and to update the text. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 99-01-38-006 (Section 01 - HVAC).
Effective June 1, 2000, the use of J-43600 ACR 2000 will be required on all repairs that require A/C
system recovery and are reimbursable by GM. Additionally, GM highly recommends that J-43600
ACR 2000 be used on all GM cars and trucks for customer paid A/C repairs.
Important:
Also effective June 1, 2000, the "Add" time for all air conditioning recovery is revised to 0.5 hours
for front systems and 0.7 hours for front/rear dual systems (RPO C69 or C34). After June 1, 2000,
all air conditioning claims submitted with the 0.9 hours "Add" time will be rejected for "labor hours
excessive".
After the completion of repairs (charging), the ACR 2000 will prompt the user to perform a snapshot
of the air conditioning system operating data. The snapshot includes:
^ Maximum high side pressure.
^ Minimum low side pressure.
^ Duct outlet temperatures (2).
^ Refrigerant purity information.
This information is captured on a paper printout and in a warranty code.
For all GM paid repairs, the paper printout should be attached to the shop copy of the repair order.
The warranty code must be submitted in the warranty claim information in the comments field. The
code enables the reporting of valuable information about the repair to GM for product quality
improvement. Claims submitted without this information may be subject to review and subsequent
debit.
The required use of J-43600 ACR 2000 raises the question of the acceptable uses for any existing
recovery/recycle equipment that GM dealers are currently using. GM recognizes that many of the
previously essential ACR4's are reaching the end of their useful life. There are several alternatives
for existing equipment that may be considered:
^ Use the existing equipment as customer paid recovery only equipment. Example: Collision repair
area.
^ Use the existing equipment as a scavenger unit for contaminated A/C systems.
^ Sell the existing units to repair facilities outside the GM dealer network.
^ Discontinue the use of the existing units if the repair/maintenance costs exceed the value of the
equipment.
^ Donate the existing equipment to local technical schools.
^ Dedicate the ACR4 to A/C system flushing, using the J-42939 Flush Adapter.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment > Page 1893
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications
Refrigerant: Capacity Specifications
Refrigerant Capacity ............................................................................................................................
.................................................... 0.79 kg. (1.75 lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications > Page 1896
Refrigerant: Fluid Type Specifications
Refrigerant Type R-134a GM P/N 12345922 Or Equivalent
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1897
Refrigerant: Description and Operation
The air conditioning system contains Refrigerant-134a (R-134a), which requires special handling to
avoid personal injury. Refer to Handling Refrigerant.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant Oil > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/C - New PAG Oil
Refrigerant Oil: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - New PAG Oil
Bulletin No.: 02-01-39-004B
Date: November 16, 2005
INFORMATION
Subject: New PAG Oil Released
Models: 2006 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2003-2006 HUMMER
H2 2006 HUMMER H3 2005-2006 Saab 9-7X
Built With R-134a Refrigeration System
All Air Conditioning Compressor Types (Excluding R4 and A6 Type Compressors)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to change the PAG oil part number used for R4 and A6 compressors
with R-134a refrigerant systems. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-01-39-004A
(Section 01 - HVAC).
All General Motors vehicles built with R-134a refrigerant systems shall now be serviced with GM
Universal PAG Oil (excluding vehicles equipped with an R4 or A6 compressor).
R4 and A6 compressors with R-134a refrigerant systems shall use PAG OIL, GM P/N 12356151
(A/C Delco part number 15-118) (in Canada, use P/N 10953486).
Important:
The PAG oil referenced in this bulletin is formulated with specific additive packages that meet
General Motors specifications and use of another oil may void the A/C systems warranty.
Use this new PAG oil when servicing the A/C system on the vehicles listed above. Oil packaged in
an 8 oz tube should be installed using A/C Oil Injector, J 45037. Refer to the HVAC Section of
Service Information for detailed information on Oil Balancing and Capacities.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant Oil > Component Information > Specifications >
Capacity Specifications
Refrigerant Oil: Capacity Specifications
The A/C system requires 240 ml (8 fl. oz.) of Polyalkylene Glycol (PAG) refrigerant oil.
NOTE: Always refer to underhood label as your primary specification resource.
Polyalkylene glycol (PAG) refrigerant oil must be added to the system when components are
replaced, as follows:
1. All Compressors (drain and measure the oil).
a Drain oil out both the suction and discharge ports of the replacement as well as the old
compressor.
b. Remove compressor crankcase drain bolt and drain oil from compressor crankcase.
- If less than 30 ml (1 oz.) is drained - add 60 ml (2 oz.) to the new compressor.
- If more than 30 ml (1 oz.) is drained - add same amount that was drained to the new compressor.
c. Install compressor crankcase drain bolt.
- Tighten compressor crankcase bolt to 20 N.m (15 lbs. ft.).
- Up to 120 ml (4 fluid ounces) of oil can collect in the crankcase. Therefore, it is important when
replacing a compressor that the oil in the old compressor crankcase be drained and measured
(discard the old oil after recording the amount).
2. Receiver Dehydrator
^ Add 105 ml (3.5 oz.) to receiver dehydrator.
3. Evaporator
^ Add 90 ml (3 oz.) oil.
4. Condenser
^ Add 30 ml (1 oz.) oil.
6. Refrigerant oil loss due to a large leak:
^ If the refrigerant charge is abruptly lost due to a large refrigerant leak, approximately 90 ml (3 oz.)
of refrigerant oil will be carried out of the system with the refrigerant. Any failure that causes an
abrupt refrigerant discharge will experience this oil loss. Failures that allow the refrigerant to seep
or bleed off over time do not experience this oil loss.
^ Upon replacement of a component which caused a large refrigerant leak, add 90 ml (3 oz.) of
new polyalkylene glycol (PAG) refrigerant oil plus: the required amount of oil for the particular
component (as outlined above).
NOTE: Add the oil directly to the replaced component if possible. If the oil cannot easily be added
to the replaced part, add the oil to the receiver dehydrator.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant Oil > Component Information > Specifications >
Capacity Specifications > Page 1904
Refrigerant Oil: Fluid Type Specifications
Refrigerant Oil Type Polyalkylene Glycol (PAG) Synthetic Refrigerant Lubricant
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair > System
Flushing
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair System Flushing
Manual
NOTE: In the following steps, use a suitable container and/or shop rags to catch fluid and prevent it
from contacting any painted surfaces. Clean Fluid reservoir cover and surrounding area.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Fluid reservoir cover. 2. Any remaining brake fluid in reservoir. 3. Refill reservoir with clean DOT
3 brake fluid to proper level.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Fluid reservoir cover. 2. Flush hydraulic modulator as follows:
a. Attach a clear plastic bleeder hose to rearward bleeder valve on the hydraulic modulator and
place the other end of hose in a container to
collect draining brake fluid. Do not submerge hose end into fluid.
b. Slowly open rearward bleeder valve one half to one full turn. c. Depress brake pedal until fluid
begins to flow. d. Close valve and release brake pedal. Repeat above steps until clean brake fluid
flows or at least 118 ml (4 ounces) of fluid is accumulated. e. Repeat above procedure for the
forward bleeder valve until clean brake fluid flows or at least 118 ml (4 ounces) of brake fluid is
accumulated.
Tighten Hydraulic modulator bleeder valves to 9 Nm (80 inch lbs.). Inspect Fluid level in reservoir
and fill to correct level if necessary.
3. Fluid reservoir cover. 4. Raise vehicle and suitably support 5. Flush wheel brakes in sequence
shown above. Flush sequence:
- Right rear.
- Left rear.
- Right front.
- Left front.
a. Attach bleeder hose to bleeder valve at each wheel and place the other end into a container to
collect draining brake fluid. Do not submerge
hose end in fluid.
b. Open bleeder valve. c. Slowly depress brake pedal. d. Close valve and slowly release brake
pedal. e. Repeat above procedure until clean brake fluid flows or at least 235 ml (8 ounces) of fluid
is accumulated.
6. Repeat Step 5 on left rear brake. 7. Repeat Step 5 on right front brake. 8. Repeat Step 5 on left
front brake. 9. Lower vehicle.
10. Replace all rubber components listed under Flushing Procedure. 11. Repeat flushing procedure
one more time. Inspect Fluid level in reservoir and fill to correct level if necessary. 12. Fluid
reservoir cap. 13. Bleed the entire brake hydraulic system.
Pressure
NOTE: If any brake component is repaired or replaced such that air is allowed to enter the brake
system, the entire bleeding procedure MUST be followed.
NOTE: Prior to bleeding the brakes, the front and rear displacement cylinder pistons must be
returned to the topmost position. The preferred method uses a Scan Tool to perform the rehoming
procedure. If a Scan Tool is not available, the second procedure may be used, but it is extremely
important that the procedure be followed exactly as outlined.
NOTE: Pressure bleeding equipment can be used to perform the flush procedure. The pressure
bleeding equipment used for flushing must be of the diaphragm type. It must have a rubber
diaphragm between the air supply and the brake fluid to prevent air, moisture, and other
contaminants from entering the hydraulic system. Clean Fluid reservoir cover and surrounding
area.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Fluid reservoir cover. 2. Any remaining brake fluid in reservoir. 3. Refill reservoir with clean DOT
3 brake fluid to proper level.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair > System
Flushing > Page 1909
1. Bleeder adapter J 35589 to brake fluid reservoir. 2. Bleeder adapter to pressure bleeding
equipment. Adjust Pressure bleeding equipment to 35-70 kPa (5-10 psi) and wait for approximately
30
seconds to ensure there is no leakage. Pressure bleed equipment to 205-240 kPa (30-35 psi).
3. Proceed as follows with pressure bleeding equipment connected and pressurized: 4. Attach a
clear plastic hose to the rearward bleeder valve on the hydraulic modulator. Place the other end of
the hose in a container to collect
draining brake fluid. Do not submerge hose end into fluid.
5. Slowly open bleeder valve and allow fluid to flow until clean brake fluid flows or until at least 118
ml (4 ounces) of fluid is accumulated. 6. Close valve. 7. Repeat above procedure for the forward
bleeder valve until clean brake fluid flows or until at least 118 ml (4 ounces) of fluid is accumulated.
Tighten Hydraulic modulator bleeder valve to 9 Nm (80 inch lbs.).
8. Raise vehicle and suitably support. 9. Flush wheel brakes in sequence. Flush sequence:
- Right rear.
- Left rear.
- Right front.
- Left front
a. Attach bleeder hose to bleeder valve at each wheel and place the other end into a container to
collect draining brake fluid. Do not submerge
hose end in fluid.
b. Slowly open bleeder valve and allow fluid to flow. c. Close valve when clean brake fluid begins to
flow or at least 235 ml (8 ounces) of fluid is accumulated.
10. Repeat Step 9 on left rear wheel brake. 11. Repeat Step 9 on right front wheel brake. 12.
Repeat Step 9 on left front wheel brake. 13. Lower vehicle. 14. Remove bleeder adapter. 15.
Replace all rubber components listed under Flushing Procedure. 16. Repeat flushing procedure
one more time. Inspect Fluid level in reservoir and fill to correct level if necessary. 17. Fluid
reservoir cap. 18. Bleed the entire brake hydraulic system.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair > System
Flushing > Page 1910
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair System Bleeding
Manual
NOTE: Use only DOT 3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed container. Do not use fluid from an open
container that may be contaminated with water. Do not use DOT 5 brake fluid.
NOTE: In the following steps, use a suitable container and/or shop cloths to catch fluid and prevent
it from contacting any painted surfaces. Clean Fluid reservoir cover and surrounding area. Inspect
Fluid level in reservoir and fill to the correct level if necessary.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Fluid reservoir cover. 2. Prime hydraulic modulator/master cylinder assembly.
a. Attach bleeder hose to rearward bleeder valve and submerge opposite hose end in clean
container partially filled with brake fluid. b. Slowly open rearward bleeder valve 1/2 to 3/4 turns. c.
Depress brake pedal and hold until fluid begins to flow. d. Close valve and release brake pedal.
Repeat Step 1 until no air bubbles are present. e. Repeat Steps 2b through 2d until fluids begins to
flow. f.
Relocate the bleeder hose to the forward hydraulic modulator bleeder valve and repeat Steps 2a
through 2e. Once fluid is seems to flow from both modulator bleeder valves, the hydraulic
modulator/master cylinder assembly is sufficiently full of fluid. However, it may not be completely
purged of air. At this point move to the wheel brakes and bleed them. This ensures that the lowest
points in the system are completely free of air and then the hydraulic modulator/master cylinder
assembly can be purged of any remaining air.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Fluid reservoir cover. Inspect Fluid level in reservoir and fill to the correct level if necessary.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Fluid reservoir cover. 2. Raise vehicle and suitably support.
3. Proceed as follows to bleed wheel brakes in sequence shown. Bleed sequence:
- Right rear.
- Left rear.
- Right front.
- Left front.
a. Attach a clear bleeder hose to bleeder valve at wheel and submerge opposite hose in clean
container partially filled with brake fluid. b. Open bleeder valve. c. Slowly depress brake pedal. d.
Close valve and slowly release brake pedal. e. Wait 5 seconds. f.
Repeat Steps 3a through 3e until the brake pedal feels firm at half travel and no air bubbles are
observed in the bleeder hose. To assist in freeing entrapped air, tap lightly on the caliper or braking
plate
4. Repeat Step 3 on left rear wheel brake. 5. Repeat Step 3 on right front wheel brake. 6. Repeat
Step 3 on left front wheel brake. 7. Lower vehicle.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Fluid reservoir cover. Inspect Fluid level in reservoir and fill to the correct level if necessary.
Pressure
NOTE: Pressure bleeding equipment must be of the diaphragm type. It must hive a rubber
diaphragm between the air supply and the brake fluid to prevent air, moisture and other
contaminants from entering the hydraulic system. Clean Fluid reservoir cover and surrounding
area. Inspect Fluid to be at proper level. Add clean brake fluid as required.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Bleeder adapter J 35589 to brake fluid reservoir. 2. Bleeder adapter to pressure bleeding
equipment. 3. Clear plastic bleeder hose to rearward bleeder valve. Submerge other end of bleeder
hose in clean container partially filled with brake fluid. Adjust
Pressure bleed equipment to 35-70 kPa (5-10 psi) and wait for approximately 30 seconds to insure
there is no leakage. Pressure bleed equipment to 205-240 kPa (30-35 psi).
4. Proceed as follows with pressure bleeding equipment connected and pressurized.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair > System
Flushing > Page 1911
a. With bleeder hose connected to rearward bleeder valve on hydraulic modulator, slowly open
bleeder valve and allow fluid to flow until no air
is seen in fluid.
b. Close valve when fluid flows without any air bubbles. Reopen and repeat until no air bubbles
exist. c. Relocate bleeder hose on the forward bleeder valve on the hydraulic modulator and repeat
Steps 3 through 4b. Tighten Hydraulic modulator
bleeder valve to 9 Nm (80 inch lbs.).
NOTE: Use a shop cloth to catch escaping brake fluid. Take care to prevent fluid from running
down motor pack and into the bottom or electrical connector. A bleeder hose is not used to bleed
brake pipe connections.
5. Proceed to bleed the hydraulic modulator brake pipe connections as follows with pressure
bleeding equipment connected and pressurized.
a. Slowly open forward brake pipe tube nut on hydraulic modulator and check for air in escaping
fluid. b. When air flow ceases, immediately tighten tube nut. Tighten Tube nut to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.).
c. Repeat Steps 5a and 5b for remaining three brake pipe connections, moving from front to rear.
6. Raise vehicle and suitably support. 7. Proceed as follows to bleed wheel brakes in sequence.
Bleed sequence:
- Right rear.
- Left rear.
- Right front.
- Left front.
a. Attach bleeder hose to bleeder valve and submerge opposite hose end in clean container
partially filled with brake fluid. b. Slowly open bleeder valve and allow fluid to flow. c. Close valve
when fluid begins to flow without any air bubbles. Tap lightly with a rubber mallet to dislodge any
trapped air bubbles.
8. Repeat above sequence on left rear wheel brake. 9. Repeat above sequence on front wheel
brakes.
10. Lower vehicle. 11. Remove bleeder adapter J 35589. 12. Check fluid level in reservoir and fill to
the correct level using clean brake fluid, if necessary. 13. Install fluid reservoir cover and
diaphragm assembly. Inspect With the ignition switch in the "RUN" position, apply brake pedal with
moderate
force and hold. Note pedal travel and feel. If pedal feels firm and constant and pedal travel is not
excessive, start the engine. With the engine running, re-check the pedal travel. If it's still firm and
constant and pedal travel is not excessive, go to Step 13. If pedal feels soft or has excessive travel
either initially or after engine start. Use the Scan Tool, "Release" then "Apply" the motors 2 to 3
times and cycle the solenoids 5 to 10 times. Be sure to "Apply" the front and rear motors to ensure
the pistons are in the upmost position. Now repeat bleeding procedure.
14. Road test the vehicle. Make several normal (non-ABS) stops from a moderate speed to ensure
proper brake system function.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and
Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Air Bag Disarming and Arming
Disabling the SIR System
Description
Description
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and
Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming > Page 1916
^ Turn the steering wheel to the straight ahead position.
^ Remove the key from the ignition switch.
1. The AIR BAG fuse from the I/P fuse block. 2. The I/P insulator left side. 3. The Connector
Position Assurance (CPA) and the driver yellow 2-way connector located at the base of the
steering column. 4. The I/P compartment door. 5. The Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and
the passenger yellow 2-way connector located behind the I/P compartment door.
IMPORTANT
With the AIR BAG fuse removed and the ignition switch in the RUN position, the AIR BAG warning
lamp Illuminates. This is normal operation and does not indicate a SIR system malfunction.
Enabling the SIR System
Description
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and
Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming > Page 1917
Description
INSTALL OR CONNECT
^ Remove the key from the ignition switch.
1. Passenger yellow 2-way connector and the CPA located behind the Instrument panel
compartment. 2. Instrument panel compartment. Refer to instrument panel compartment in
Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console. 3. Driver yellow 2-way connector and the CPA located at
the base of the steering column. 4. Instrument Cluster insulator (left side). Refer to instrument
panel in Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console. 5. The AIR BAG Fuse to the LH I/P Bussed
Electrical Center (LH I/P BEC). Refer to Power Distribution in Diagrams.
^ Staying well away from both air bags, turn the ignition switch to the RUN position. Verify that the
AIR BAG warning lamp flashes seven times and then stays off. If the AIR BAG warning lamp does
not operate as described, perform the SIR DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM CHECK. See: Restraint
Systems/Air Bag Systems/Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and
Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming > Page 1918
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair General Service Precautions
CAUTION: When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you
must disable the SIR system. Use the following procedure to temporarily disable the I/P system.
Failure to follow the correct procedure could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or
unnecessary SIR system repairs.
The inflatable restraint sensing and diagnostic module maintains a reserve energy supply. When
the vehicle power is insufficient to cause deployment of the air bags, the reserve energy supply
provides the deployment power. Deployment power is available for as much as 10 minutes after
disconnecting the vehicle power by any of the following methods:
^ You turn off the ignition switch.
^ You remove the fuse that provides power to the inflatable restraint sensing and diagnostic
module.
^ You disconnect the vehicle battery from the vehicle electrical system.
Disabling the SIR System prevents deploying of the air bags from the reserve energy supply
power. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. See: Air Bag Disarming and Arming/Disabling the SIR
System
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Electrical - Aftermarket Fuse Warning
Fuse: Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Aftermarket Fuse Warning
Bulletin No.: 07-08-45-002
Date: September 05, 2007
ADVANCED SERVICE INFORMATION
Subject: Service Alert: Concerns With Aftermarket Fuses in GM Vehicles
Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn) 2008 and
Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2008 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Concerns with Harbor Freight Tools "Storehouse" Branded Blade Type Fuses
General Motors has become aware of a fuse recall by Harbor Freight Tools/Storehouse for a
variety of aftermarket fuses. In two cases, these fuses have not provided protection for the wiring
system of the vehicles they were customer installed in.
Upon testing the 15 amp version, it was found that the fuse still would not "open" when shorted
directly across the battery terminals.
How to Identify These Fuses
Packed in a 120 piece set, the fuse has a translucent, hard plastic, blue body with the amperage
stamped into the top. There are no white painted numbers on the fuse to indicate amperage. There
are no identifying marks on the fuse to tell who is making it. The fuses are known to be distributed
by Harbor Freight Tools but there may be other marketers, and packaging of this style of fuse. It
would be prudent to replace these fuses if found in a customers vehicle. Likewise, if wiring
overheating is found you should check the fuse panel for the presence of this style of fuse.
All GM dealers should use genuine GM fuses on the vehicles they service. You should also
encourage the use of GM fuses to your customers to assure they are getting the required electrical
system protection. GM has no knowledge of any concerns with other aftermarket fuses. If
additional information becomes available, this bulletin will be updated.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Locations >
I/P Junction Block
Left Side Of I/P
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Locations >
I/P Junction Block > Page 1926
Left Side Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Application
and ID > Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Fuse: Application and ID Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center (Part 1 Of 2)
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Application
and ID > Underhood Bussed Electrical Center > Page 1929
Fuse: Application and ID I/P Bussed Electrical Center
LH I/P Bussed Electrical Center
LH I/P Bussed Electrical Center
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Application
and ID > Underhood Bussed Electrical Center > Page 1930
RH I/P Bussed Electrical Center
RH I/P Bussed Electrical Center
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Locations > I/P Junction Block
Left Side Of I/P
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Locations > I/P Junction Block > Page 1935
Left Side Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1
Fuse Block: Diagrams C1
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1
Pinout Description
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 1 Of 5)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1 > Page 1938
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 2 Of 5)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1 > Page 1939
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 3 Of 5)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1 > Page 1940
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 4 Of 5)
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 5 Of 5)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1 > Page 1941
Fuse Block: Diagrams C2
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2
Pinout Description
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2 (Part 1 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1 > Page 1942
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2 (Part 2 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1 > Page 1943
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2 (Part 3 Of 4)
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2 (Part 4 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1 > Page 1944
Fuse Block: Diagrams C3
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3
Pinout Description
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3 (Part 1 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1 > Page 1945
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3 (Part 2 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1 > Page 1946
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3 (Part 3 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1 > Page 1947
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3 (Part 4 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1 > Page 1948
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C4
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1 > Page 1949
Fuse Block: Diagrams
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1
Pinout Description
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 1 Of 5)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1 > Page 1950
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 2 Of 5)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1 > Page 1951
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 3 Of 5)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1 > Page 1952
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 4 Of 5)
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 5 Of 5)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1 > Page 1953
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2
Pinout Description
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2 (Part 1 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1 > Page 1954
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2 (Part 2 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1 > Page 1955
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2 (Part 3 Of 4)
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2 (Part 4 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1 > Page 1956
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3
Pinout Description
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3 (Part 1 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1 > Page 1957
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3 (Part 2 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1 > Page 1958
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3 (Part 3 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1 > Page 1959
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3 (Part 4 Of 4)
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C4
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1 > Page 1960
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C5
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C6
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1 > Page 1961
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C7
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Application and ID > Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Fuse Block: Application and ID Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center (Part 1 Of 2)
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Application and ID > Underhood Bussed Electrical Center > Page 1964
Fuse Block: Application and ID I/P Bussed Electrical Center
LH I/P Bussed Electrical Center
LH I/P Bussed Electrical Center
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Application and ID > Underhood Bussed Electrical Center > Page 1965
RH I/P Bussed Electrical Center
RH I/P Bussed Electrical Center
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Application and ID > Page 1966
Fuse Block: Service and Repair
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Negative battery cable from battery. 2. Positive cable from battery. 3. Air inlet. 4. Cover from
B.E.C. and battery cable. 5. Splice pack from inner fender. 6. Pull B.E.C. out of bracket and rotate
clockwise 180 degrees. 7. Unsnap bottom cover. 8. Connectors from B.E.C. 9. B.E.C.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. B.E.C. 2. Connectors to B.E.C. 3. Snap bottom cover. 4. Rotate counterclockwise 180 degrees.
Push B.E.C. into bracket. 5. Splice pack to inner fender. 6. Battery cable and cover to B.E.C. 7. Air
inlet. 8. Positive cable to battery. 9. Negative battery cable to battery.
Tighten ^
Bolts to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fusible Link > Component Information >
Locations
Front Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Relay Box > Component Information >
Locations > I/P Junction Block
Left Side Of I/P
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Relay Box > Component Information >
Locations > I/P Junction Block > Page 1974
Left Side Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Coolant Level Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Description and Operation
Coolant Level Indicator Lamp: Description and Operation
The Low Coolant indicator (amber) will be illuminated to indicate to the driver that the Engine
Coolant level is low. The Engine Coolant Level Switch is a discrete input to the Body Function
Controller (BFC) which will close when the Engine Coolant is low. The indicator will illuminate when
the input has been active low for at least 10 seconds and the Ignition Switch is in the RUN position.
The indicator will be commanded OFF if the switch input goes inactive for at least 2 seconds. This
is a distributed function between the Body Function Controller (BFC) and the Instrument Cluster.
The Body Function Controller (BFC) will read the status of the Engine Coolant Level Switch input
and determine indicator control and then send the control state to the
Instrument Cluster via the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial data bus. The Instrument Cluster
will read the Low Coolant indicator control state in the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) message
and control the indicator directly. In the event of an Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) data link
failure, the Low Coolant indicator will not illuminate unless the indicator was illuminated prior to the
Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) data link failure.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Coolant Level Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Page 1979
Coolant Level Indicator Lamp: Testing and Inspection
Diagnostic Chart
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator: Description and Operation
The SERVICE VEHICLE SOON indicator (amber) is an alert to the driver. The indicator will also
turn on whenever there are specific current codes stored in the Body Function Controller (BFC), or
in the event of a loss of Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) data from the Body Function Controller
(BFC) to the Instrument Cluster. Until the Body Function Controller (BFC) has been programmed;
the Body Function Controller (BFC) will keep this indicator ON.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 1983
Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator: Service and Repair
Service Vehicle Soon Indicator
If this light is on, it indicates a problem in one of the electronically monitored systems such as
Heating and Air Conditioning or Cruise Control. This light does NOT come on at certain milleage
intervals. There is probably a Body Control Module (Body Function Controller) Code or
non-Emission related Powertrain Code set that will aid you in diagnosis. The only way to get the
light to go off is to clear the BCM (BFC)/PCM code(s). This light can NOT be reset or shut off any
other way. Codes should be read & repaired before clearing them.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Oil Level Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Description and Operation
Oil Level Warning Indicator: Description and Operation
The Check Oil indicator (amber) will be illuminated when the Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
reads the Oil Level Switch and transmits a Class 2 message to the Body Function Controller (BFC)
indicating there is a Low Oil Level Condition. The Body Function Controller (BFC) will then
command the Check Oil indicator ON over the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) interface to the
Instrument Cluster. If the Low Oil Level option is false all Class 2 activity on the part of the Body
Function Controller (BFC) will stop. The Body Function Controller (BFC) will not send out any
request for the Low Oil Level condition command and will not issue a Low Oil Level condition
report. In the event of a loss of Body Function Controller (BFC) or Powertrain Control Module
(PCM) Class 2 serial data the Check Oil indicator will not illuminate unless the indicator was
illuminated when the event occurred. In the event of an Serial Peripheral interface (SPI) data link
failure, the Check Oil indicator will not illuminate unless the indicator was illuminated prior to the
Serial Peripheral interface (SPI) data link failure.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Vehicle Lifting > Component Information > Service and
Repair
Vehicle Lifting: Service and Repair
GENERAL VEHICLE LIFTING AND JACKING
CAUTION: To help avoid personal injury when a vehicle is on a hoist, provide additional support for
the vehicle at the opposite end from which components are being removed. The additional support
will reduce the possibility of the vehicle falling off the hoist. When removing major components from
the vehicle while the vehicle is on a hoist, the vehicle frame should be chained to the hoist pads at
the same end as the removed components to prevent tip-off. Failure to follow these precautionary
measures could result in vehicle damage, serious personal injury, or death.
CAUTION: To help avoid personal injury, always use jackstands when working on or under any
vehicle that is supported only by a jack.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Spare Tire > Component Information > Service
and Repair
Spare Tire: Service and Repair
All vehicles will be equipped with a high pressure compact spare. The compact spare uses a
narrow 4-inch wide rim, although the wheel diameter is usually one inch larger than the road
wheels.
The compact spare wheel should not be used with standard tires, snow tires, wheel covers or trim
rings. If such use is attempted, damage to these items or other parts of the vehicle may occur. The
compact spare should be used only on vehicles which offered it as original equipment.
CAUTION: To avoid serious personal injury, do not stand over tire when inflating. Bead may break
when bead snaps over safety hump. Do not exceed 275 kPa (40 psi) pressure when inflating any
tire if beads are not seated. It 275 kPa (40 psi) pressure will not seat beads, deflate, lubricate the
beads and reinflate. Overinflation may cause the bead to break and cause serious personal injury.
Inflation pressure of the compact spare must be periodically checked and maintained at 415 kPa
(60 psi). It can be mounted and dismounted from its wheel using present tire changing equipment
and procedures. As with other tires, the beads should completely seat at 275 kPa (40 psi). The tire
may then be safely inflated to 415 kPa (60 psi).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV)
Wheels: Customer Interest Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV)
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-03-10-006F
Date: May 04, 2010
Subject: Information on Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2009
and Prior Saab 9-7X 2000-2005 Saturn L Series 2003-2007 Saturn ION
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to considerably expand the available information on
Radial Force Variation (RFV) and should be reviewed in whole. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 00-03-10-006E (Section 03 - Suspension).
Important
- Before measuring tires on equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700, the vehicle MUST be driven
a minimum of 16 km (10 mi) to ensure removal of any flat-spotting. Refer to Corporate Bulletin
Number 03-03-10-007E - Tire/Wheel Characteristics of GM Original Equipment Tires.
- Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 MUST be calibrated prior to measuring tire/wheel
assemblies for each vehicle.
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide guidance to GM dealers when using tire force variation
measurement equipment, such as the Hunter GSP9700. This type of equipment can be a valuable
tool in diagnosing vehicle ride concerns. The most common ride concern involving tire radial force
variation is highway speed shake on smooth roads.
Tire related smooth road highway speed shake can be caused by three conditions: imbalance, out
of round and tire force variation. These three conditions are not necessarily related. All three
conditions must be addressed.
Imbalance is normally addressed first, because it is the simpler of the three to correct. Off-vehicle,
two plane dynamic wheel balancers are readily available and can accurately correct any
imbalance. Balancer calibration and maintenance, proper attachment of the wheel to the balancer,
and proper balance weights, are all factors required for a quality balance. However, a perfectly
balanced tire/wheel assembly can still be "oval shaped" and cause a vibration.
Before balancing, perform the following procedures.
Tire and Wheel Diagnosis
1. Set the tire pressure to the placard values. 2. With the vehicle raised, ensure the wheels are
centered on the hub by loosening all wheel nuts and hand-tightening all nuts first by hand while
shaking the wheel, then torque to specifications using a torque wrench, NOT a torque stick.
3. Visually inspect the tires and the wheels. Inspect for evidence of the following conditions and
correct as necessary:
- Missing balance weights
- Bent rim flange
- Irregular tire wear
- Incomplete bead seating
- Tire irregularities (including pressure settings)
- Mud/ice build-up in wheel
- Stones in the tire tread
- Remove any aftermarket wheels and/or tires and restore vehicle to original condition prior to
diagnosing a smooth road shake condition.
4. Road test the vehicle using the Electronic Vibration Analyzer (EVA) essential tool. Drive for a
sufficient distance on a known, smooth road
surface to duplicate the condition. Determine if the vehicle is sensitive to brake apply. If the brakes
are applied lightly and the pulsation felt in the steering wheel increases, refer to the Brakes section
of the service manual that deals with brake-induced pulsation. If you can start to hear the vibration
as a low boom noise (in addition to feeling it), but cannot see it, the vehicle likely has a first order
(one pulse per propshaft revolution) driveline vibration. Driveline first order vibrations are high
enough in frequency that most humans can start to hear them at highway speeds, but are too high
to be able to be easily seen. These issues can be caused by driveline imbalance or misalignment.
If the vehicle exhibits this low boom and the booming pulses in-and-out on a regular basis (like a
throbbing), chances are good that the vehicle could have driveline vibration. This type
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV) > Page 2003
of vibration is normally felt more in the "seat of the pants" than the steering wheel.
5. Next, record the Hertz (Hz) reading as displayed by the EVA onto the tire data worksheet found
at the end of this bulletin. This should be done
after a tire break-in period of at least 16 km (10 mi) at 72 km/h (45 mph) or greater, in order to
eliminate any possible tire flat-spotting. This reading confirms what the vehicle vibration frequency
is prior to vehicle service and documents the amount of improvement occurring as the result of the
various steps taken to repair. Completing the Steering Wheel Shake Worksheet below is required.
A copy of the completed worksheet must be saved with the R.O. and a copy included with any
parts returned to the Warranty Parts Center for analysis. A reading of 35 to 50 Hz typically
indicates a first order propshaft vibration. If this is the situation, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
08-07-30-044D. Generally, a reading between 10 and 20 Hz indicates a tire/wheel vibration and if
this is the reading obtained, continue using this bulletin. If the tire 1st order vibration goes away
and stays away during this evaluation, the cause is likely tire flat-spotting. Tire flat-spotting vibration
may come and go at any speed over 72 km/h (45 mph) during the first 10 minutes of operation, if
vibration continues after 10 minutes of driving at speeds greater than 72 km/h (45 mph), tire
flat-spotting can be ruled out as the cause for vibration.
6. If flat-spotting is the cause, provide the explanation that this has occurred due to the vehicle
being parked for long periods of time and that the
nature of the tire is to take a set. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-03-10-007E: Information
on Tire/Wheel Characteristics (Vibration, Balance, Shake, Flat Spotting) of GM Original Equipment
Tires.
7. If the road test indicates a shake/vibration exists, check the imbalance of each tire/wheel
assembly on a known, calibrated, off-car dynamic
balancer.Make sure the mounting surface of the wheel and the surface of the balancer are
absolutely clean and free of debris. Be sure to chose the proper cone/collet for the wheel, and
always use the pilot bore for centering. Never center the wheel using the hub-cap bore since it is
not a precision machined surface. If any assembly calls for more than 1/4 ounce on either rim
flange, remove all balance weights and rebalance to as close to zero as possible. If you can see
the vibration (along with feeling it) in the steering wheel (driving straight without your hands on the
wheel), it is very likely to be a tire/wheel first order (one pulse per revolution) disturbance. First
order disturbances can be caused by imbalance as well as non-uniformities in tires, wheels or
hubs. This first order frequency is too low for a human to hear, but if the amplitude is high enough,
it can be seen.
If a vibration or shake still exists after balancing, any out of round conditions, of the wheel, and
force variation conditions of the tire, must be addressed. Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700
can address both (it is also a wheel balancer).
Tire radial force vibration (RFV) can be defined as the amount of stiffness variation the tire will
produce in one revolution under a constant load. Radial force variation is what the vehicle feels
because the load (weight) of the vehicle is always on the tires. Although free runout of tires (not
under load) is not always a good indicator of a smooth ride, it is critical that total tire/wheel
assembly runout be within specification.
Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 loads the tire, similar to on the vehicle, and measures
radial force variation of the tire/wheel assembly. Note that the wheel is affecting the tire's RFV
measurement at this point. To isolate the wheel, its runout must be measured. This can be easily
done on the Hunter, without the need to set up dial indicators. If the wheel meets the runout
specification, the tire's RFV can then be addressed.
After measuring the tire/wheel assembly under load, and the wheel alone, the machine then
calculates (predicts) the radial force variation of the tire. However, because this is a prediction that
can include mounting inaccuracies, and the load wheel is much smaller in diameter than used in
tire production, this type of service equipment should NOT be used to audit new tires. Rather, it
should be used as a service diagnostic tool to minimize radial force variation of the tire/wheel
assembly.
Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 does an excellent job of measuring wheel runout, and of
finding the low point of the wheel (for runout) and the high point of the tire (for radial force
variation). This allows the tire to be matched mounted to the wheel for lowest tire/wheel assembly
force variation.
The machine will simplify this process into easy steps. The following assembly radial force variation
numbers should be used as a guide:
When measuring RFV and match mounting tires perform the following steps.
Measuring Wheel Runout and Assembly Radial Force Variation
Important The completed worksheet at the end of this bulletin must be attached to the hard copy of
the repair order.
- Measure radial force variation and radial runout.
- If a road force/balancing machine is used, record the radial force variation (RFV) on the
worksheet at the end of this bulletin. It may be of benefit to have the lowest RFV assembly to the
front left corner. If the machine is not available and the EVA data suggests there is an issue, swap
the tire and wheel assemblies from the front to the back. Re-check on the EVA and if the problem
still exists, test another vehicle to find tires that do not exhibit the same frequency and swap those
tires onto the subject vehicle.
- If a runout/balancing machine is used, record the radial runout of the tire/wheel assemblies on the
worksheet at the end of this bulletin. If one or more of the tire/wheel assemblies are more than.040
in (1.02 mm), match mount the tire to the wheel to get below.040 in (1.02 mm). For sensitive
customers, readings of 0.030 inch (0.76 mm) or less are preferable, it may also be of benefit to
have the lowest runout assembly to the front left corner. If the machine is not available and the
EVA data suggests there is an issue, swap the tire and wheel assemblies from the front to the
back. Re-check on the EVA and if the problem still exists, test another vehicle to find tires that do
not exhibit the same frequency and swap those tires
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV) > Page 2004
onto the subject vehicle.
- After match mounting, the tire/wheel assembly must be rebalanced.
If match mounting tires to in-spec wheels produces assembly values higher than these, tire
replacement may be necessary. Replacing tires at lower values will probably mean good tires are
being condemned. Because tires can sometimes become temporarily flat-spotted, which will affect
force variation, it is important that the vehicle be driven at least 16 km (10 mi) prior to measuring.
Tire pressure must also be adjusted to the usage pressure on the vehicle's tire placard prior to
measuring.
Most GM vehicles will tolerate radial force variation up to these levels. However, some vehicles are
more sensitive, and may require lower levels. Also, there are other tire parameters that equipment
such as the Hunter GSP9700 cannot measure that may be a factor. In such cases, TAC should be
contacted for further instructions.
Important
- When mounting a GM wheel to a wheel balancer/force variation machine, always use the wheel's
center pilot hole. This is the primary centering mechanism on all GM wheels; the bolt holes are
secondary. Usually a back cone method to the machine should be used. For added accuracy and
repeatability, a flange plate should be used to clamp the wheel onto the cone and machine. This
system is offered by all balancer manufacturers in GM's dealer program.
- Any type of service equipment that removes tread rubber by grinding, buffing or truing is NOT
recommended, and may void the tire warranty. However, tires may have been ground by the tire
company as part of their tire manufacturing process. This is a legitimate procedure.
Steering Wheel Shake Worksheet
When diagnosing vibration concerns, use the following worksheet in conjunction with the
appropriate Vibration Analysis-Road testing procedure in the Vibration Correction sub-section in SI.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV) > Page 2005
Refer to the appropriate section of SI for specifications and repair procedures that are related to the
vibration concern.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 05-03-10-003F > Apr > 10 > Tires/Wheels - Low Tire/Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels
Wheels: Customer Interest Tires/Wheels - Low Tire/Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 05-03-10-003F
Date: April 27, 2010
Subject: Low Tire Pressure, Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels (Repair with Adhesive Sealant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X with Cast Aluminum Wheels
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the model years and the bulletin reference
information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-03-10-003E (Section 03 - Suspension).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a low tire pressure condition.
Diagnosis of the low tire pressure condition indicates an air leak through the cast aluminum wheel.
Cause
Porosity in the cast aluminum wheel may be the cause.
Notice
This bulletin specifically addresses issues related to the wheel casting that may result in an air
leak. For issues related to corrosion of the wheel in service, please refer to Corporate Bulletin
Number 08-03-10-006C - Tire Slowly Goes Flat, Tire Air Loss, Low Tire Pressure Warning Light
Illuminated, Aluminum Wheel Bead Seat Corrosion (Clean and Resurface Wheel Bead Seat).
Correction
1. Remove the tire and wheel assembly from the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate service
procedure in SI. 2. Locate the leaking area by inflating the tire to 276 kPa (40 psi) and dipping the
tire/wheel assembly in a water bath, or use a spray bottle with soap
and water to locate the specific leak location.
Important
- If the porosity leak is located in the bead area of the aluminum rim (where the tire meets the rim),
the wheel should be replaced.
- If two or more leaks are located on one wheel, the wheel should be replaced.
3. If air bubbles are observed, mark the location.
- If the leak location is on the tire/rubber area, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 04-03-10-001F Tire Puncture Repair Procedures for All Cars and Light Duty Trucks.
- If the leak is located on the aluminum wheel area, continue with the next step.
4. Inscribe a mark on the tire at the valve stem in order to indicate the orientation of the tire to the
wheel. 5. Dismount the tire from the wheel. Refer to Tire Mounting and Dismounting. 6. Remove
the tire pressure sensor. Refer to Tire Pressure Sensor removal procedure in SI. 7. Scuff the
INSIDE rim surface at the leak area with #80 grit paper and clean the area with general purpose
cleaner, such as 3M(R) General Purpose
Adhesive Cleaner, P/N 08984, or equivalent.
8. Apply a 3 mm (0.12 in) thick layer of Silicone - Adhesive/Sealant, P/N 12378478 (in Canada, use
88900041), or equivalent, to the leak area. 9. Allow for the adhesive/sealant to dry.
Notice Caution must be used when mounting the tire so as not to damage the sealer. Damaging
the repair area may result in an air leak.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 05-03-10-003F > Apr > 10 > Tires/Wheels - Low Tire/Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels >
Page 2010
10. Align the inscribed mark on the tire with the valve stem on the wheel. 11. Reinstall the Tire
Pressure Sensor. Refer to Tire Pressure Sensor installation procedure in SI. 12. Mount the tire on
the wheel. Refer to Tire Mounting and Dismounting. 13. Pressurize the tire to 276 kPa (40 psi) and
inspect for leaks. 14. Adjust tire pressure to meet the placard specification. 15. Balance the
tire/wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Assembly Balancing - Off-Vehicle. 16. Install the tire
and wheel assembly onto the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate service procedure in SI.
Parts Information
Warranty Information (excluding Saab U.S. Models)
Important The Silicone - Adhesive/Sealant comes in a case quantity of six. ONLY charge warranty
one tube of adhesive/sealant per wheel repair.
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
One leak repair per wheel.
Warranty Information (Saab U.S. Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Chrome Wheel Staining/Pitting/Corrosion
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-03-10-002F
Date: April 21, 2011
Subject: Chemical Staining, Pitting, Corrosion and/or Spotted Appearance of Chromed Aluminum
Wheels
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update model years, suggest additional restorative
products and add additional corrosion information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
00-03-10-002E (Section 03 - Suspension). Important You may give a copy of this bulletin to the
customer.
What is Chemical Staining of Chrome Wheels? Figure 1
Chemical staining in most cases results from acid based cleaners (refer to Figure 1 for an
example). These stains are frequently milky, black, or greenish in appearance. They result from
using cleaning solutions that contain acids on chrome wheels. Soap and water is usually sufficient
to clean wheels.
If the customer insists on using a wheel cleaner they should only use one that specifically states
that it is safe for chromed wheels and does not contain anything in the following list. (Dealers
should also survey any products they use during prep or normal cleaning of stock units for these
chemicals.)
- Ammonium Bifluoride (fluoride source for dissolution of chrome)
- Hydrofluoric Acid (directly dissolves chrome)
- Hydrochloric Acid (directly dissolves chrome)
- Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonic Acid
- Sulfamic Acid
- Phosphoric Acid
- Hydroxyacetic Acid
Notice
Many wheel cleaner instructions advise to take care to avoid contact with painted surfaces. Most
customers think of painted surfaces as the fenders, quarter panels and other exterior sheet metal.
Many vehicles have painted brake calipers. Acidic wheel cleaners may craze, crack, or discolor the
paint on the brake calipers. Damage from wheel cleaners is not covered under the vehicle new car
warranty. Soap and water applied with a soft brush is usually all that is required to clean the
calipers.
Whenever any wheel cleaner is used, it must be THOROUGHLY rinsed off of the wheel with clean,
clear water. Special care must be taken to rinse under the hub cap, balance weights, wheel nuts,
lug nut caps, between the wheel cladding and off the back side of the wheel. Wheels returned to
the Warranty Parts Center (WPC) that exhibit damage from wheel cleaners most often have the
damage around and under the wheel weight where the cleaner was incompletely flushed away.
Notice
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 2016
Do not use cleaning solutions that contain hydrofluoric, oxalic and most other acids on chrome
wheels (or any wheels).
If the customer is unsure of the chemical make-up of a particular wheel cleaner, it should be
avoided.
For wheels showing signs of milky staining from acidic cleaners, refer to Customer Assistance and
Instructions below.
Warranty of Stained Chrome Wheels
Stained wheels are not warrantable. Most acid based cleaners will permanently stain chrome
wheels. Follow-up with dealers has confirmed that such cleaners were used on wheels that were
returned to the Warranty Parts Center (WPC). Any stained wheels received by the WPC will be
charged back to the dealership. To assist the customer, refer to Customer Assistance and
Instructions below.
Pitting or Spotted Appearance of Chrome Wheels Figure 2
A second type or staining or finish disturbance may result from road chemicals, such as calcium
chloride used for dust control of unpaved roads. The staining will look like small pitting (refer to
Figure 2). This staining will usually be on the leading edges of each wheel spoke, but may be
uniformly distributed. If a vehicle must be operated under such conditions, the chrome wheels
should be washed with mild soap and water and thoroughly rinsed as soon as conveniently
possible.
Important Road chemicals, such as calcium chloride used for dust control of unpaved roads, can
also stain chrome wheels. The staining will look like small pitting. This staining will usually be on
the leading edges of each wheel spoke. This is explained by the vehicle traveling in the forward
direction while being splashed by the road chemical. If a vehicle must be operated under such
conditions, the chrome wheels should be washed with mild soap and water and thoroughly rinsed
as soon as conveniently possible.
Warranty of Pitted or Spotted Chrome Wheels
Wheels returned with pitting or spotting as a result of road chemicals may be replaced one time.
Damage resulting from contact with these applied road chemicals is corrosive to the wheels finish
and may cause damage if the wheels are not kept clean.
Important Notify the customer that this is a one time replacement. Please stress to the customer
the vital importance of keeping the wheels clean if they are operating the vehicle in an area that
applies calcium chloride or other dust controlling chemicals! "GM of Canada" dealers require prior
approval by the District Manager - Customer Care and Service Process (DM-CCSP).
"Stardust" Corrosion of Chrome Wheels Figure 3
A third type of finish disturbance results from prolonged exposure to brake dust and resultant
penetration of brake dust through the chrome. As brakes are applied hot particles of brake material
are thrown off and tend to be forced through the leading edge of the wheel spoke windows by
airflow. These
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 2017
hot particles embed themselves in the chrome layer and create a small pit. If the material is allowed
to sit on the wheel while it is exposed to moisture or salt, it will corrode the wheel beneath the
chrome leaving a pit or small blister in the chrome.
Heavy brake dust build-up should be removed from wheels by using GM Chrome Cleaner and
Polish, P/N 1050173 (in Canada use 10953013). For moderate cleaning, light brake dust build-up
or water spots use GM Swirl Remover Polish, P/N 12377965 (in Canada, use Meguiars
Plast-X(TM) Clear Plastic Cleaner and Polish #G12310C**). After cleaning, the wheel should be
waxed using GM Cleaner Wax, P/N 12377966 (in Canada, use Meguiars Cleaner Wax
#M0616C**), which will help protect the wheel from brake dust and reduce adhesion of any brake
dust that gets on the wheel surface. For general maintenance cleaning, PEEK Metal Polish† may
be used. It will clean and shine the chrome and leave behind a wax coating that may help protect
the finish.
Warranty of Stardust Corroded Chrome Wheels
Wheels returned with pitting or spotting as a result of neglect and brake dust build-up may be
replaced one time.
Important Notify the customer that this is a one time replacement. Please stress to the customer
the vital importance of keeping the wheels clean and free of prolonged exposure to brake dust
build-up. "GM of Canada" dealers require prior approval by the District Manager - Customer Care
and Service Process (DM-CCSP).
Customer Assistance and Instructions
GM has looked for ways customers may improve the appearance of wheels damaged by acidic
cleaners. The following product and procedure has been found to dramatically improve the
appearance of stained wheels. For wheels that have milky stains caused by acidic cleaners try the
following:
Notice
THE 3M CHROME AND METAL POLISH REQUIRED FOR THIS PROCEDURE IS AN
EXTREMELY AGGRESSIVE POLISH/CLEANER. THE WHEELS MUST BE CLEANED BEFORE
APPLICATION TO AVOID SCRATCHING THE WHEEL SURFACE. THIS PRODUCT WILL
REDUCE THE THICKNESS OF THE CHROME PLATING ON THE WHEEL AND IF USED
INCORRECTLY OR EXCESSIVELY MAY REMOVE THE CHROME PLATING ALL TOGETHER,
EXPOSING A LESS BRIGHT AND BRASSY COLORED SUB-LAYER. FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS
EXACTLY.
1. Wash the wheels with vigorously with soap and water. This step will clean and may reduce
wheel staining. Flood all areas of the wheel with water
to rinse.
2. Dry the wheels completely.
Notice Begin with a small section of the wheel and with light pressure buff off polish and examine
results. ONLY apply and rub with sufficient force and time to remove enough staining that you are
satisfied with the results. Some wheels may be stained to the extent that you may only achieve a
50% improvement while others may be able to be restored to the original lustre. IN ALL CASES,
only apply until the results are satisfactory.
3. Apply 3M Chrome and Metal Polish #39527* with a clean terry cloth towel. As you apply the
polish, the staining will be diminished. 4. When dry, buff off the polish with a clean portion of the
towel. 5. Repeat application of the 3M Chrome and Metal Polish until satisfied with the results. If
continued applications fail to improve the appearance
further discontinue use.
This procedure will improve the appearance of the wheels and may, with repeated applications,
restore the finish dramatically. For wheels that exhibit spotting from road chemicals the above
procedure may marginally improve the condition but will not restore the finish or remove the pitting.
In this type of staining the wheel finish has actually been removed in spots and no manner of
cleaning will restore the finish.
†*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers
of such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or
assume any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may
be available from other sources.
Parts Information
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 2018
*This product is currently available from 3M. To obtain information for your local retail location
please call 3M at 1-888-364-3577.
**This product is currently available from Meguiars (Canada). To obtain information for your local
retail location please call Meguiars at 1-800-347-5700 or at www.meguiarscanada.com.
^ This product is currently available from Tri-Peek International. To obtain information for your local
retail location please call Tri-Peek at
1-877-615-4272 or at www.tripeek.com.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 99-08-51-007E > Mar > 11 > Wheels/Tires - Refinishing Aluminum
Wheels
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels/Tires - Refinishing Aluminum Wheels
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 99-08-51-007E
Date: March 17, 2011
Subject: Refinishing Aluminum Wheels
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add additional model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 99-08-51-007D (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
This bulletin updates General Motor's position on refinishing aluminum wheels. GM does not
endorse any repairs that involve welding, bending, straightening or re-machining. Only cosmetic
refinishing of the wheel's coatings, using recommended procedures, is allowed.
Evaluating Damage
In evaluating damage, it is the GM Dealer's responsibility to inspect the wheel for corrosion,
scrapes, gouges, etc. The Dealer must insure that such damage is not deeper than what can be
sanded or polished off. The wheel must be inspected for cracks. If cracks are found, discard the
wheel. Any wheels with bent rim flanges must not be repaired or refinished. Wheels that have been
refinished by an outside company must be returned to the same vehicle. The Dealer must record
the wheel ID stamp or the cast date on the wheel in order to assure this requirement. Refer to
Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company later in this bulletin.
Aluminum Wheel Refinishing Recommendations
- Chrome-plated aluminum wheels Re-plating these wheels is not recommended.
- Polished aluminum wheels These wheels have a polyester or acrylic clearcoat on them. If the
clearcoat is damaged, refinishing is possible. However, the required refinishing process cannot be
performed in the dealer environment. Refer to Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company later
in this bulletin.
- Painted aluminum wheels These wheels are painted using a primer, color coat, and clearcoat
procedure. If the paint is damaged, refinishing is possible. As with polished wheels, all original
coatings must be removed first. Media blasting is recommended. Refer to GM Aluminum
Refinishing Bulletin #53-17-03A for the re-painting of this type of wheel.
- Bright, machined aluminum wheels These wheels have a polyester or acrylic clearcoat on them.
In some cases, the recessed "pocket" areas of the wheel may be painted. Surface refinishing is
possible. The wheel must be totally stripped by media blasting or other suitable means. The wheel
should be resurfaced by using a sanding process rather than a machining process. This allows the
least amount of material to be removed.
Important Do not use any re-machining process that removes aluminum. This could affect the
dimensions and function of the wheel.
Painting is an option to re-clearcoating polished and bright machined aluminum wheels. Paint will
better mask any surface imperfections and is somewhat more durable than clearcoat alone. GM
recommends using Corsican SILVER WAEQ9283 for a fine "aluminum-like" look or Sparkle
SILVER WA9967 for a very bright look. As an option, the body color may also be used. When using
any of the painting options, it is recommended that all four wheels be refinished in order to maintain
color uniformity. Refer to GM Aluminum Refinishing Bulletin #53-17-03A for specific procedures
and product recommendations.
Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company
Important Some outside companies are offering wheel refinishing services. Such refinished wheels
will be permanently marked by the refinisher and are warranted by the refinisher. Any process that
re-machines or otherwise re-manufactures the wheel should not be used.
A refinisher's responsibility includes inspecting for cracks using the Zyglo system or the equivalent.
Any cracked wheels must not be refinished. No welding, hammering or reforming of any kind is
allowed. The wheel ID must be recorded and follow the wheel throughout the process in order to
assure that the same wheel is returned. A plastic media blast may be used for clean up of the
wheel. Hand and/or lathe sanding of the machined surface and the wheel window is allowed.
Material removal, though, must be kept to a minimum. Re-machining of the wheel is not allowed.
Paint and/or clear coat must not be present on the following surfaces: the nut chamfers, the wheel
mounting surfaces and the wheel pilot hole. The refinisher must permanently ID stamp the wheel
and warrant the painted/clearcoated surfaces for a minimum of one year or the remainder of the
new vehicle warranty, whichever is
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 99-08-51-007E > Mar > 11 > Wheels/Tires - Refinishing Aluminum
Wheels > Page 2023
longer.
Important Whenever a wheel is refinished, the mounting surface and the wheel nut contact
surfaces must not be painted or clearcoated. Coating these surfaces could affect the wheel nut
torque.
When re-mounting a tire on an aluminum wheel, coated balance weights must be used in order to
reduce the chance of future cosmetic damage.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 06-03-10-010A > Jun > 10 > Wheels - Changing
Procedures/Precautions
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Changing Procedures/Precautions
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 06-03-10-010A
Date: June 09, 2010
Subject: Information on Proper Wheel Changing Procedures and Cautions
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2010 and Prior HUMMER Models 2005-2009 Saab
9-7X 2005-2009 Saturn Vehicles
Attention:
Complete wheel changing instructions for each vehicle line can be found under Tire and Wheel
Removal and Installation in Service Information (SI). This bulletin is intended to quickly review and
reinforce simple but vital procedures to reduce the possibility of achieving low torque during wheel
installation. Always refer to SI for wheel lug nut torque specifications and complete jacking
instructions for safe wheel changing.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to include the 2011 model year and update the available
special tool list. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-03-10-010 (Section 03 Suspension).
Frequency of Wheel Changes - Marketplace Driven
Just a few years ago, the increasing longevity of tires along with greater resistance to punctures
had greatly reduced the number of times wheels were removed to basically required tire rotation
intervals. Today with the booming business in accessory wheels/special application tires (such as
winter tires), consumers are having tire/wheel assemblies removed - replaced - or installed more
than ever. With this increased activity, it opens up more of a chance for error on the part of the
technician. This bulletin will review a few of the common concerns and mistakes to make yourself
aware of.
Proper Servicing Starts With the Right Tools
The following tools have been made available to assist in proper wheel and tire removal and
installation.
- J 41013 Rotor Resurfacing Kit (or equivalent)
- J 42450-A Wheel Hub Resurfacing Kit (or equivalent)
Corroded Surfaces
One area of concern is corrosion on the mating surfaces of the wheel to the hub on the vehicle.
Excessive corrosion, dirt, rust or debris built up on these surfaces can mimic a properly tightened
wheel in the service stall. Once the vehicle is driven, the debris may loosen, grind up or be washed
away from water splash. This action may result in clearance at the mating surface of the wheel and
an under-torqued condition.
Caution
Before installing a wheel, remove any buildup on the wheel mounting surface and brake drum or
brake disc mounting surface. Installing wheels with poor metal-to-metal contact at the mounting
surfaces can cause wheel nuts to loosen. This may cause a wheel to come off when the vehicle is
moving, possibly resulting in a loss of control or personal injury.
Whenever you remove the tire/wheel assemblies, you must inspect the mating surfaces. If
corrosion is found, you should remove the debris with a die grinder equipped with a fine sanding
pad, wire brush or cleaning disc. Just remove enough material to assure a clean, smooth mating
surface.
The J 41013 (or equivalent) can be used to clean the following surfaces:
- The hub mounting surface
- The brake rotor mounting surface
- The wheel mounting surface
Use the J 42450-A (or equivalent) to clean around the base of the studs and the hub.
Lubricants, Grease and Fluids
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 06-03-10-010A > Jun > 10 > Wheels - Changing
Procedures/Precautions > Page 2028
Some customers may use penetrating oils, grease or other lubricants on wheel studs to aid in
removal or installation. Always use a suitable cleaner/solvent to remove these lubricants prior to
installing the wheel and tire assemblies. Lubricants left on the wheel studs may cause improper
readings of wheel nut torque. Always install wheels to clean, dry wheel studs ONLY.
Notice
Lubricants left on the wheel studs or vertical mounting surfaces between the wheel and the rotor or
drum may cause the wheel to work itself loose after the vehicle is driven. Always install wheels to
clean, dry wheel studs and surfaces ONLY. Beginning with 2011 model year vehicles, put a light
coating of grease, GM P/N 1051344 (in Canada, P/N 9930370), on the inner surface of the wheel
pilot hole to prevent wheel seizure to the axle or bearing hub.
Wheel Stud and Lug Nut Damage
Always inspect the wheel studs and lug nuts for signs of damage from crossthreading or abuse.
You should never have to force wheel nuts down the stud. Lug nuts that are damaged may not
retain properly, yet give the impression of fully tightening. Always inspect and replace any
component suspected of damage.
Tip
Always start wheel nuts by hand! Be certain that all wheel nut threads have been engaged
BEFORE tightening the nut.
Important If the vehicle has directional tread tires, verify the directional arrow on the outboard side
of the tire is pointing in the direction of forward rotation.
Wheel Nut Tightening and Torque
Improper wheel nut tightening can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. In order to avoid
additional brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts to the proper torque specification as shown
for each vehicle in SI. Always observe the proper wheel nut tightening sequence as shown below in
order to avoid trapping the wheel on the wheel stud threads or clamping the wheel slightly off
center resulting in vibration.
The Most Important Service You Provide
While the above information is well known, and wheel removal so common, technicians run the risk
of becoming complacent on this very important
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 06-03-10-010A > Jun > 10 > Wheels - Changing
Procedures/Precautions > Page 2029
service operation. A simple distraction or time constraint that rushes the job may result in personal
injury if the greatest of care is not exercised. Make it a habit to double check your work and to
always side with caution when installing wheels.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force
Variation (RFV)
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV)
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-03-10-006F
Date: May 04, 2010
Subject: Information on Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2009
and Prior Saab 9-7X 2000-2005 Saturn L Series 2003-2007 Saturn ION
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to considerably expand the available information on
Radial Force Variation (RFV) and should be reviewed in whole. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 00-03-10-006E (Section 03 - Suspension).
Important
- Before measuring tires on equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700, the vehicle MUST be driven
a minimum of 16 km (10 mi) to ensure removal of any flat-spotting. Refer to Corporate Bulletin
Number 03-03-10-007E - Tire/Wheel Characteristics of GM Original Equipment Tires.
- Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 MUST be calibrated prior to measuring tire/wheel
assemblies for each vehicle.
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide guidance to GM dealers when using tire force variation
measurement equipment, such as the Hunter GSP9700. This type of equipment can be a valuable
tool in diagnosing vehicle ride concerns. The most common ride concern involving tire radial force
variation is highway speed shake on smooth roads.
Tire related smooth road highway speed shake can be caused by three conditions: imbalance, out
of round and tire force variation. These three conditions are not necessarily related. All three
conditions must be addressed.
Imbalance is normally addressed first, because it is the simpler of the three to correct. Off-vehicle,
two plane dynamic wheel balancers are readily available and can accurately correct any
imbalance. Balancer calibration and maintenance, proper attachment of the wheel to the balancer,
and proper balance weights, are all factors required for a quality balance. However, a perfectly
balanced tire/wheel assembly can still be "oval shaped" and cause a vibration.
Before balancing, perform the following procedures.
Tire and Wheel Diagnosis
1. Set the tire pressure to the placard values. 2. With the vehicle raised, ensure the wheels are
centered on the hub by loosening all wheel nuts and hand-tightening all nuts first by hand while
shaking the wheel, then torque to specifications using a torque wrench, NOT a torque stick.
3. Visually inspect the tires and the wheels. Inspect for evidence of the following conditions and
correct as necessary:
- Missing balance weights
- Bent rim flange
- Irregular tire wear
- Incomplete bead seating
- Tire irregularities (including pressure settings)
- Mud/ice build-up in wheel
- Stones in the tire tread
- Remove any aftermarket wheels and/or tires and restore vehicle to original condition prior to
diagnosing a smooth road shake condition.
4. Road test the vehicle using the Electronic Vibration Analyzer (EVA) essential tool. Drive for a
sufficient distance on a known, smooth road
surface to duplicate the condition. Determine if the vehicle is sensitive to brake apply. If the brakes
are applied lightly and the pulsation felt in the steering wheel increases, refer to the Brakes section
of the service manual that deals with brake-induced pulsation. If you can start to hear the vibration
as a low boom noise (in addition to feeling it), but cannot see it, the vehicle likely has a first order
(one pulse per propshaft revolution) driveline vibration. Driveline first order vibrations are high
enough in frequency that most humans can start to hear them at highway speeds, but are too high
to be able to be easily seen. These issues can be caused by driveline imbalance or misalignment.
If the vehicle exhibits this low boom and the booming pulses in-and-out on a regular basis (like a
throbbing), chances are good that the vehicle could have driveline vibration. This type
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force
Variation (RFV) > Page 2034
of vibration is normally felt more in the "seat of the pants" than the steering wheel.
5. Next, record the Hertz (Hz) reading as displayed by the EVA onto the tire data worksheet found
at the end of this bulletin. This should be done
after a tire break-in period of at least 16 km (10 mi) at 72 km/h (45 mph) or greater, in order to
eliminate any possible tire flat-spotting. This reading confirms what the vehicle vibration frequency
is prior to vehicle service and documents the amount of improvement occurring as the result of the
various steps taken to repair. Completing the Steering Wheel Shake Worksheet below is required.
A copy of the completed worksheet must be saved with the R.O. and a copy included with any
parts returned to the Warranty Parts Center for analysis. A reading of 35 to 50 Hz typically
indicates a first order propshaft vibration. If this is the situation, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
08-07-30-044D. Generally, a reading between 10 and 20 Hz indicates a tire/wheel vibration and if
this is the reading obtained, continue using this bulletin. If the tire 1st order vibration goes away
and stays away during this evaluation, the cause is likely tire flat-spotting. Tire flat-spotting vibration
may come and go at any speed over 72 km/h (45 mph) during the first 10 minutes of operation, if
vibration continues after 10 minutes of driving at speeds greater than 72 km/h (45 mph), tire
flat-spotting can be ruled out as the cause for vibration.
6. If flat-spotting is the cause, provide the explanation that this has occurred due to the vehicle
being parked for long periods of time and that the
nature of the tire is to take a set. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-03-10-007E: Information
on Tire/Wheel Characteristics (Vibration, Balance, Shake, Flat Spotting) of GM Original Equipment
Tires.
7. If the road test indicates a shake/vibration exists, check the imbalance of each tire/wheel
assembly on a known, calibrated, off-car dynamic
balancer.Make sure the mounting surface of the wheel and the surface of the balancer are
absolutely clean and free of debris. Be sure to chose the proper cone/collet for the wheel, and
always use the pilot bore for centering. Never center the wheel using the hub-cap bore since it is
not a precision machined surface. If any assembly calls for more than 1/4 ounce on either rim
flange, remove all balance weights and rebalance to as close to zero as possible. If you can see
the vibration (along with feeling it) in the steering wheel (driving straight without your hands on the
wheel), it is very likely to be a tire/wheel first order (one pulse per revolution) disturbance. First
order disturbances can be caused by imbalance as well as non-uniformities in tires, wheels or
hubs. This first order frequency is too low for a human to hear, but if the amplitude is high enough,
it can be seen.
If a vibration or shake still exists after balancing, any out of round conditions, of the wheel, and
force variation conditions of the tire, must be addressed. Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700
can address both (it is also a wheel balancer).
Tire radial force vibration (RFV) can be defined as the amount of stiffness variation the tire will
produce in one revolution under a constant load. Radial force variation is what the vehicle feels
because the load (weight) of the vehicle is always on the tires. Although free runout of tires (not
under load) is not always a good indicator of a smooth ride, it is critical that total tire/wheel
assembly runout be within specification.
Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 loads the tire, similar to on the vehicle, and measures
radial force variation of the tire/wheel assembly. Note that the wheel is affecting the tire's RFV
measurement at this point. To isolate the wheel, its runout must be measured. This can be easily
done on the Hunter, without the need to set up dial indicators. If the wheel meets the runout
specification, the tire's RFV can then be addressed.
After measuring the tire/wheel assembly under load, and the wheel alone, the machine then
calculates (predicts) the radial force variation of the tire. However, because this is a prediction that
can include mounting inaccuracies, and the load wheel is much smaller in diameter than used in
tire production, this type of service equipment should NOT be used to audit new tires. Rather, it
should be used as a service diagnostic tool to minimize radial force variation of the tire/wheel
assembly.
Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 does an excellent job of measuring wheel runout, and of
finding the low point of the wheel (for runout) and the high point of the tire (for radial force
variation). This allows the tire to be matched mounted to the wheel for lowest tire/wheel assembly
force variation.
The machine will simplify this process into easy steps. The following assembly radial force variation
numbers should be used as a guide:
When measuring RFV and match mounting tires perform the following steps.
Measuring Wheel Runout and Assembly Radial Force Variation
Important The completed worksheet at the end of this bulletin must be attached to the hard copy of
the repair order.
- Measure radial force variation and radial runout.
- If a road force/balancing machine is used, record the radial force variation (RFV) on the
worksheet at the end of this bulletin. It may be of benefit to have the lowest RFV assembly to the
front left corner. If the machine is not available and the EVA data suggests there is an issue, swap
the tire and wheel assemblies from the front to the back. Re-check on the EVA and if the problem
still exists, test another vehicle to find tires that do not exhibit the same frequency and swap those
tires onto the subject vehicle.
- If a runout/balancing machine is used, record the radial runout of the tire/wheel assemblies on the
worksheet at the end of this bulletin. If one or more of the tire/wheel assemblies are more than.040
in (1.02 mm), match mount the tire to the wheel to get below.040 in (1.02 mm). For sensitive
customers, readings of 0.030 inch (0.76 mm) or less are preferable, it may also be of benefit to
have the lowest runout assembly to the front left corner. If the machine is not available and the
EVA data suggests there is an issue, swap the tire and wheel assemblies from the front to the
back. Re-check on the EVA and if the problem still exists, test another vehicle to find tires that do
not exhibit the same frequency and swap those tires
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force
Variation (RFV) > Page 2035
onto the subject vehicle.
- After match mounting, the tire/wheel assembly must be rebalanced.
If match mounting tires to in-spec wheels produces assembly values higher than these, tire
replacement may be necessary. Replacing tires at lower values will probably mean good tires are
being condemned. Because tires can sometimes become temporarily flat-spotted, which will affect
force variation, it is important that the vehicle be driven at least 16 km (10 mi) prior to measuring.
Tire pressure must also be adjusted to the usage pressure on the vehicle's tire placard prior to
measuring.
Most GM vehicles will tolerate radial force variation up to these levels. However, some vehicles are
more sensitive, and may require lower levels. Also, there are other tire parameters that equipment
such as the Hunter GSP9700 cannot measure that may be a factor. In such cases, TAC should be
contacted for further instructions.
Important
- When mounting a GM wheel to a wheel balancer/force variation machine, always use the wheel's
center pilot hole. This is the primary centering mechanism on all GM wheels; the bolt holes are
secondary. Usually a back cone method to the machine should be used. For added accuracy and
repeatability, a flange plate should be used to clamp the wheel onto the cone and machine. This
system is offered by all balancer manufacturers in GM's dealer program.
- Any type of service equipment that removes tread rubber by grinding, buffing or truing is NOT
recommended, and may void the tire warranty. However, tires may have been ground by the tire
company as part of their tire manufacturing process. This is a legitimate procedure.
Steering Wheel Shake Worksheet
When diagnosing vibration concerns, use the following worksheet in conjunction with the
appropriate Vibration Analysis-Road testing procedure in the Vibration Correction sub-section in SI.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force
Variation (RFV) > Page 2036
Refer to the appropriate section of SI for specifications and repair procedures that are related to the
vibration concern.
Disclaimer
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 05-03-10-003F > Apr > 10 > Tires/Wheels - Low Tire/Leaking Cast
Aluminum Wheels
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Tires/Wheels - Low Tire/Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 05-03-10-003F
Date: April 27, 2010
Subject: Low Tire Pressure, Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels (Repair with Adhesive Sealant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X with Cast Aluminum Wheels
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the model years and the bulletin reference
information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-03-10-003E (Section 03 - Suspension).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a low tire pressure condition.
Diagnosis of the low tire pressure condition indicates an air leak through the cast aluminum wheel.
Cause
Porosity in the cast aluminum wheel may be the cause.
Notice
This bulletin specifically addresses issues related to the wheel casting that may result in an air
leak. For issues related to corrosion of the wheel in service, please refer to Corporate Bulletin
Number 08-03-10-006C - Tire Slowly Goes Flat, Tire Air Loss, Low Tire Pressure Warning Light
Illuminated, Aluminum Wheel Bead Seat Corrosion (Clean and Resurface Wheel Bead Seat).
Correction
1. Remove the tire and wheel assembly from the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate service
procedure in SI. 2. Locate the leaking area by inflating the tire to 276 kPa (40 psi) and dipping the
tire/wheel assembly in a water bath, or use a spray bottle with soap
and water to locate the specific leak location.
Important
- If the porosity leak is located in the bead area of the aluminum rim (where the tire meets the rim),
the wheel should be replaced.
- If two or more leaks are located on one wheel, the wheel should be replaced.
3. If air bubbles are observed, mark the location.
- If the leak location is on the tire/rubber area, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 04-03-10-001F Tire Puncture Repair Procedures for All Cars and Light Duty Trucks.
- If the leak is located on the aluminum wheel area, continue with the next step.
4. Inscribe a mark on the tire at the valve stem in order to indicate the orientation of the tire to the
wheel. 5. Dismount the tire from the wheel. Refer to Tire Mounting and Dismounting. 6. Remove
the tire pressure sensor. Refer to Tire Pressure Sensor removal procedure in SI. 7. Scuff the
INSIDE rim surface at the leak area with #80 grit paper and clean the area with general purpose
cleaner, such as 3M(R) General Purpose
Adhesive Cleaner, P/N 08984, or equivalent.
8. Apply a 3 mm (0.12 in) thick layer of Silicone - Adhesive/Sealant, P/N 12378478 (in Canada, use
88900041), or equivalent, to the leak area. 9. Allow for the adhesive/sealant to dry.
Notice Caution must be used when mounting the tire so as not to damage the sealer. Damaging
the repair area may result in an air leak.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 05-03-10-003F > Apr > 10 > Tires/Wheels - Low Tire/Leaking Cast
Aluminum Wheels > Page 2041
10. Align the inscribed mark on the tire with the valve stem on the wheel. 11. Reinstall the Tire
Pressure Sensor. Refer to Tire Pressure Sensor installation procedure in SI. 12. Mount the tire on
the wheel. Refer to Tire Mounting and Dismounting. 13. Pressurize the tire to 276 kPa (40 psi) and
inspect for leaks. 14. Adjust tire pressure to meet the placard specification. 15. Balance the
tire/wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Assembly Balancing - Off-Vehicle. 16. Install the tire
and wheel assembly onto the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate service procedure in SI.
Parts Information
Warranty Information (excluding Saab U.S. Models)
Important The Silicone - Adhesive/Sealant comes in a case quantity of six. ONLY charge warranty
one tube of adhesive/sealant per wheel repair.
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
One leak repair per wheel.
Warranty Information (Saab U.S. Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table above.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 04-03-10-012B > Feb > 08 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel Brake Dust
Accumulation/Pitting
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Chrome Wheel Brake Dust Accumulation/Pitting
Bulletin No.: 04-03-10-012B
Date: February 01, 2008
INFORMATION
Subject: Pitting and Brake Dust on Chrome wheels
Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2008 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2005-2008 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
04-03-10-012A (Section 03 - Suspension).
Analysis of Returned Wheels
Chrome wheels returned under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty for pitting concerns have
recently been evaluated. This condition is usually most severe in the vent (or window) area of the
front wheels. This "pitting" may actually be brake dust that has been allowed to accumulate on the
wheel. The longer this accumulation builds up, the more difficult it is to remove.
Cleaning the Wheels
In all cases, the returned wheels could be cleaned to their original condition using GM Vehicle Care
Cleaner Wax, P/N 12377966 (in Canada, P/N 10952905). When using this product, you should
confine your treatment to the areas of the wheel that show evidence of the brake dust build-up.
This product is only for use on chromed steel or chromed aluminum wheels.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Wheel replacement for this condition is NOT applicable under the terms of the New Vehicle Limited
Warranty.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 99-03-10-102 > Jun > 99 > Warranty - OE Chrome Plated
Aluminum Wheel ID
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Warranty - OE Chrome Plated Aluminum Wheel ID
File In Section: 03 - Suspension
Bulletin No.: 99-03-10-102
Date: June, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Original Equipment Chrome Plated Aluminum Wheel Identification
Models: 1999 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
Chrome plated aluminum wheels have been returned to the Warranty Parts Center that are not the
original equipment (OE) components.
Original equipment chrome plated aluminum wheels can be identified by either a balance weight
clip retention groove (1) or a step (2) that is machined around both of the wheel's rim flanges. The
rim flanges (3) of painted original equipment aluminum wheels do not have a groove or a step.
Chrome plated aluminum wheels that do not have the wheel rim flange groove or step are
aftermarket chrome plated components and are NOT warrantable. Any aftermarket chrome wheels
received by the Warranty Parts Center will be charged back to the dealership.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 72-05-05 > Aug > 97 > Warranty - Guidelines for Using E0420
Wheel Replace
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Warranty - Guidelines for Using E0420 Wheel Replace
File In Section: Warranty Administration
Bulletin No.: 72-05-05
Date: August, 1997
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Subject: Guidelines for Using EO42O Wheel Replace
Models: 1989-98 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide service personnel with guidelines for using the above
subject labor operation.
Effective with repair orders dated on or after September 1, 1997, dealers are to be guided by the
following:
^ Aluminum Wheels (including chrome plated) with Porosity - Wheels that exhibit porosity should
be repaired as described in the vehicle service manual. Wheels should not be replaced without
wholesale approval.
^ Aluminum Wheels (except chrome plated) with a "Finish Defect" - Wheels that exhibit a defect in
the finish, (i.e., discoloration or surface degradation) should be refinished as described in the
Corporate Service Bulletin Number 53-17-03A released in May, 1996.
^ Chrome Wheels - Wheels that are chromed and found to have a finish defect can only be
replaced.
^ Aluminum and chrome wheels replaced under warranty will be subject to random part review and
inspection. Those wheels inspected and found not to be defective and/or should have been
repaired, will be subject to charge back.
Wheels damaged by normal wear, road hazards, car wash brushes, or other physical or chemical
damage are not eligible for warranty coverage.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Chrome Wheel Staining/Pitting/Corrosion
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-03-10-002F
Date: April 21, 2011
Subject: Chemical Staining, Pitting, Corrosion and/or Spotted Appearance of Chromed Aluminum
Wheels
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update model years, suggest additional restorative
products and add additional corrosion information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
00-03-10-002E (Section 03 - Suspension). Important You may give a copy of this bulletin to the
customer.
What is Chemical Staining of Chrome Wheels? Figure 1
Chemical staining in most cases results from acid based cleaners (refer to Figure 1 for an
example). These stains are frequently milky, black, or greenish in appearance. They result from
using cleaning solutions that contain acids on chrome wheels. Soap and water is usually sufficient
to clean wheels.
If the customer insists on using a wheel cleaner they should only use one that specifically states
that it is safe for chromed wheels and does not contain anything in the following list. (Dealers
should also survey any products they use during prep or normal cleaning of stock units for these
chemicals.)
- Ammonium Bifluoride (fluoride source for dissolution of chrome)
- Hydrofluoric Acid (directly dissolves chrome)
- Hydrochloric Acid (directly dissolves chrome)
- Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonic Acid
- Sulfamic Acid
- Phosphoric Acid
- Hydroxyacetic Acid
Notice
Many wheel cleaner instructions advise to take care to avoid contact with painted surfaces. Most
customers think of painted surfaces as the fenders, quarter panels and other exterior sheet metal.
Many vehicles have painted brake calipers. Acidic wheel cleaners may craze, crack, or discolor the
paint on the brake calipers. Damage from wheel cleaners is not covered under the vehicle new car
warranty. Soap and water applied with a soft brush is usually all that is required to clean the
calipers.
Whenever any wheel cleaner is used, it must be THOROUGHLY rinsed off of the wheel with clean,
clear water. Special care must be taken to rinse under the hub cap, balance weights, wheel nuts,
lug nut caps, between the wheel cladding and off the back side of the wheel. Wheels returned to
the Warranty Parts Center (WPC) that exhibit damage from wheel cleaners most often have the
damage around and under the wheel weight where the cleaner was incompletely flushed away.
Notice
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 2059
Do not use cleaning solutions that contain hydrofluoric, oxalic and most other acids on chrome
wheels (or any wheels).
If the customer is unsure of the chemical make-up of a particular wheel cleaner, it should be
avoided.
For wheels showing signs of milky staining from acidic cleaners, refer to Customer Assistance and
Instructions below.
Warranty of Stained Chrome Wheels
Stained wheels are not warrantable. Most acid based cleaners will permanently stain chrome
wheels. Follow-up with dealers has confirmed that such cleaners were used on wheels that were
returned to the Warranty Parts Center (WPC). Any stained wheels received by the WPC will be
charged back to the dealership. To assist the customer, refer to Customer Assistance and
Instructions below.
Pitting or Spotted Appearance of Chrome Wheels Figure 2
A second type or staining or finish disturbance may result from road chemicals, such as calcium
chloride used for dust control of unpaved roads. The staining will look like small pitting (refer to
Figure 2). This staining will usually be on the leading edges of each wheel spoke, but may be
uniformly distributed. If a vehicle must be operated under such conditions, the chrome wheels
should be washed with mild soap and water and thoroughly rinsed as soon as conveniently
possible.
Important Road chemicals, such as calcium chloride used for dust control of unpaved roads, can
also stain chrome wheels. The staining will look like small pitting. This staining will usually be on
the leading edges of each wheel spoke. This is explained by the vehicle traveling in the forward
direction while being splashed by the road chemical. If a vehicle must be operated under such
conditions, the chrome wheels should be washed with mild soap and water and thoroughly rinsed
as soon as conveniently possible.
Warranty of Pitted or Spotted Chrome Wheels
Wheels returned with pitting or spotting as a result of road chemicals may be replaced one time.
Damage resulting from contact with these applied road chemicals is corrosive to the wheels finish
and may cause damage if the wheels are not kept clean.
Important Notify the customer that this is a one time replacement. Please stress to the customer
the vital importance of keeping the wheels clean if they are operating the vehicle in an area that
applies calcium chloride or other dust controlling chemicals! "GM of Canada" dealers require prior
approval by the District Manager - Customer Care and Service Process (DM-CCSP).
"Stardust" Corrosion of Chrome Wheels Figure 3
A third type of finish disturbance results from prolonged exposure to brake dust and resultant
penetration of brake dust through the chrome. As brakes are applied hot particles of brake material
are thrown off and tend to be forced through the leading edge of the wheel spoke windows by
airflow. These
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 2060
hot particles embed themselves in the chrome layer and create a small pit. If the material is allowed
to sit on the wheel while it is exposed to moisture or salt, it will corrode the wheel beneath the
chrome leaving a pit or small blister in the chrome.
Heavy brake dust build-up should be removed from wheels by using GM Chrome Cleaner and
Polish, P/N 1050173 (in Canada use 10953013). For moderate cleaning, light brake dust build-up
or water spots use GM Swirl Remover Polish, P/N 12377965 (in Canada, use Meguiars
Plast-X(TM) Clear Plastic Cleaner and Polish #G12310C**). After cleaning, the wheel should be
waxed using GM Cleaner Wax, P/N 12377966 (in Canada, use Meguiars Cleaner Wax
#M0616C**), which will help protect the wheel from brake dust and reduce adhesion of any brake
dust that gets on the wheel surface. For general maintenance cleaning, PEEK Metal Polish† may
be used. It will clean and shine the chrome and leave behind a wax coating that may help protect
the finish.
Warranty of Stardust Corroded Chrome Wheels
Wheels returned with pitting or spotting as a result of neglect and brake dust build-up may be
replaced one time.
Important Notify the customer that this is a one time replacement. Please stress to the customer
the vital importance of keeping the wheels clean and free of prolonged exposure to brake dust
build-up. "GM of Canada" dealers require prior approval by the District Manager - Customer Care
and Service Process (DM-CCSP).
Customer Assistance and Instructions
GM has looked for ways customers may improve the appearance of wheels damaged by acidic
cleaners. The following product and procedure has been found to dramatically improve the
appearance of stained wheels. For wheels that have milky stains caused by acidic cleaners try the
following:
Notice
THE 3M CHROME AND METAL POLISH REQUIRED FOR THIS PROCEDURE IS AN
EXTREMELY AGGRESSIVE POLISH/CLEANER. THE WHEELS MUST BE CLEANED BEFORE
APPLICATION TO AVOID SCRATCHING THE WHEEL SURFACE. THIS PRODUCT WILL
REDUCE THE THICKNESS OF THE CHROME PLATING ON THE WHEEL AND IF USED
INCORRECTLY OR EXCESSIVELY MAY REMOVE THE CHROME PLATING ALL TOGETHER,
EXPOSING A LESS BRIGHT AND BRASSY COLORED SUB-LAYER. FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS
EXACTLY.
1. Wash the wheels with vigorously with soap and water. This step will clean and may reduce
wheel staining. Flood all areas of the wheel with water
to rinse.
2. Dry the wheels completely.
Notice Begin with a small section of the wheel and with light pressure buff off polish and examine
results. ONLY apply and rub with sufficient force and time to remove enough staining that you are
satisfied with the results. Some wheels may be stained to the extent that you may only achieve a
50% improvement while others may be able to be restored to the original lustre. IN ALL CASES,
only apply until the results are satisfactory.
3. Apply 3M Chrome and Metal Polish #39527* with a clean terry cloth towel. As you apply the
polish, the staining will be diminished. 4. When dry, buff off the polish with a clean portion of the
towel. 5. Repeat application of the 3M Chrome and Metal Polish until satisfied with the results. If
continued applications fail to improve the appearance
further discontinue use.
This procedure will improve the appearance of the wheels and may, with repeated applications,
restore the finish dramatically. For wheels that exhibit spotting from road chemicals the above
procedure may marginally improve the condition but will not restore the finish or remove the pitting.
In this type of staining the wheel finish has actually been removed in spots and no manner of
cleaning will restore the finish.
†*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers
of such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or
assume any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may
be available from other sources.
Parts Information
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 2061
*This product is currently available from 3M. To obtain information for your local retail location
please call 3M at 1-888-364-3577.
**This product is currently available from Meguiars (Canada). To obtain information for your local
retail location please call Meguiars at 1-800-347-5700 or at www.meguiarscanada.com.
^ This product is currently available from Tri-Peek International. To obtain information for your local
retail location please call Tri-Peek at
1-877-615-4272 or at www.tripeek.com.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 99-08-51-007E > Mar > 11 > Wheels/Tires - Refinishing Aluminum
Wheels
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels/Tires - Refinishing Aluminum Wheels
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 99-08-51-007E
Date: March 17, 2011
Subject: Refinishing Aluminum Wheels
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add additional model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 99-08-51-007D (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
This bulletin updates General Motor's position on refinishing aluminum wheels. GM does not
endorse any repairs that involve welding, bending, straightening or re-machining. Only cosmetic
refinishing of the wheel's coatings, using recommended procedures, is allowed.
Evaluating Damage
In evaluating damage, it is the GM Dealer's responsibility to inspect the wheel for corrosion,
scrapes, gouges, etc. The Dealer must insure that such damage is not deeper than what can be
sanded or polished off. The wheel must be inspected for cracks. If cracks are found, discard the
wheel. Any wheels with bent rim flanges must not be repaired or refinished. Wheels that have been
refinished by an outside company must be returned to the same vehicle. The Dealer must record
the wheel ID stamp or the cast date on the wheel in order to assure this requirement. Refer to
Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company later in this bulletin.
Aluminum Wheel Refinishing Recommendations
- Chrome-plated aluminum wheels Re-plating these wheels is not recommended.
- Polished aluminum wheels These wheels have a polyester or acrylic clearcoat on them. If the
clearcoat is damaged, refinishing is possible. However, the required refinishing process cannot be
performed in the dealer environment. Refer to Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company later
in this bulletin.
- Painted aluminum wheels These wheels are painted using a primer, color coat, and clearcoat
procedure. If the paint is damaged, refinishing is possible. As with polished wheels, all original
coatings must be removed first. Media blasting is recommended. Refer to GM Aluminum
Refinishing Bulletin #53-17-03A for the re-painting of this type of wheel.
- Bright, machined aluminum wheels These wheels have a polyester or acrylic clearcoat on them.
In some cases, the recessed "pocket" areas of the wheel may be painted. Surface refinishing is
possible. The wheel must be totally stripped by media blasting or other suitable means. The wheel
should be resurfaced by using a sanding process rather than a machining process. This allows the
least amount of material to be removed.
Important Do not use any re-machining process that removes aluminum. This could affect the
dimensions and function of the wheel.
Painting is an option to re-clearcoating polished and bright machined aluminum wheels. Paint will
better mask any surface imperfections and is somewhat more durable than clearcoat alone. GM
recommends using Corsican SILVER WAEQ9283 for a fine "aluminum-like" look or Sparkle
SILVER WA9967 for a very bright look. As an option, the body color may also be used. When using
any of the painting options, it is recommended that all four wheels be refinished in order to maintain
color uniformity. Refer to GM Aluminum Refinishing Bulletin #53-17-03A for specific procedures
and product recommendations.
Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company
Important Some outside companies are offering wheel refinishing services. Such refinished wheels
will be permanently marked by the refinisher and are warranted by the refinisher. Any process that
re-machines or otherwise re-manufactures the wheel should not be used.
A refinisher's responsibility includes inspecting for cracks using the Zyglo system or the equivalent.
Any cracked wheels must not be refinished. No welding, hammering or reforming of any kind is
allowed. The wheel ID must be recorded and follow the wheel throughout the process in order to
assure that the same wheel is returned. A plastic media blast may be used for clean up of the
wheel. Hand and/or lathe sanding of the machined surface and the wheel window is allowed.
Material removal, though, must be kept to a minimum. Re-machining of the wheel is not allowed.
Paint and/or clear coat must not be present on the following surfaces: the nut chamfers, the wheel
mounting surfaces and the wheel pilot hole. The refinisher must permanently ID stamp the wheel
and warrant the painted/clearcoated surfaces for a minimum of one year or the remainder of the
new vehicle warranty, whichever is
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 99-08-51-007E > Mar > 11 > Wheels/Tires - Refinishing Aluminum
Wheels > Page 2066
longer.
Important Whenever a wheel is refinished, the mounting surface and the wheel nut contact
surfaces must not be painted or clearcoated. Coating these surfaces could affect the wheel nut
torque.
When re-mounting a tire on an aluminum wheel, coated balance weights must be used in order to
reduce the chance of future cosmetic damage.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 06-03-10-010A > Jun > 10 > Wheels - Changing
Procedures/Precautions
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Changing Procedures/Precautions
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 06-03-10-010A
Date: June 09, 2010
Subject: Information on Proper Wheel Changing Procedures and Cautions
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2010 and Prior HUMMER Models 2005-2009 Saab
9-7X 2005-2009 Saturn Vehicles
Attention:
Complete wheel changing instructions for each vehicle line can be found under Tire and Wheel
Removal and Installation in Service Information (SI). This bulletin is intended to quickly review and
reinforce simple but vital procedures to reduce the possibility of achieving low torque during wheel
installation. Always refer to SI for wheel lug nut torque specifications and complete jacking
instructions for safe wheel changing.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to include the 2011 model year and update the available
special tool list. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-03-10-010 (Section 03 Suspension).
Frequency of Wheel Changes - Marketplace Driven
Just a few years ago, the increasing longevity of tires along with greater resistance to punctures
had greatly reduced the number of times wheels were removed to basically required tire rotation
intervals. Today with the booming business in accessory wheels/special application tires (such as
winter tires), consumers are having tire/wheel assemblies removed - replaced - or installed more
than ever. With this increased activity, it opens up more of a chance for error on the part of the
technician. This bulletin will review a few of the common concerns and mistakes to make yourself
aware of.
Proper Servicing Starts With the Right Tools
The following tools have been made available to assist in proper wheel and tire removal and
installation.
- J 41013 Rotor Resurfacing Kit (or equivalent)
- J 42450-A Wheel Hub Resurfacing Kit (or equivalent)
Corroded Surfaces
One area of concern is corrosion on the mating surfaces of the wheel to the hub on the vehicle.
Excessive corrosion, dirt, rust or debris built up on these surfaces can mimic a properly tightened
wheel in the service stall. Once the vehicle is driven, the debris may loosen, grind up or be washed
away from water splash. This action may result in clearance at the mating surface of the wheel and
an under-torqued condition.
Caution
Before installing a wheel, remove any buildup on the wheel mounting surface and brake drum or
brake disc mounting surface. Installing wheels with poor metal-to-metal contact at the mounting
surfaces can cause wheel nuts to loosen. This may cause a wheel to come off when the vehicle is
moving, possibly resulting in a loss of control or personal injury.
Whenever you remove the tire/wheel assemblies, you must inspect the mating surfaces. If
corrosion is found, you should remove the debris with a die grinder equipped with a fine sanding
pad, wire brush or cleaning disc. Just remove enough material to assure a clean, smooth mating
surface.
The J 41013 (or equivalent) can be used to clean the following surfaces:
- The hub mounting surface
- The brake rotor mounting surface
- The wheel mounting surface
Use the J 42450-A (or equivalent) to clean around the base of the studs and the hub.
Lubricants, Grease and Fluids
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Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 06-03-10-010A > Jun > 10 > Wheels - Changing
Procedures/Precautions > Page 2071
Some customers may use penetrating oils, grease or other lubricants on wheel studs to aid in
removal or installation. Always use a suitable cleaner/solvent to remove these lubricants prior to
installing the wheel and tire assemblies. Lubricants left on the wheel studs may cause improper
readings of wheel nut torque. Always install wheels to clean, dry wheel studs ONLY.
Notice
Lubricants left on the wheel studs or vertical mounting surfaces between the wheel and the rotor or
drum may cause the wheel to work itself loose after the vehicle is driven. Always install wheels to
clean, dry wheel studs and surfaces ONLY. Beginning with 2011 model year vehicles, put a light
coating of grease, GM P/N 1051344 (in Canada, P/N 9930370), on the inner surface of the wheel
pilot hole to prevent wheel seizure to the axle or bearing hub.
Wheel Stud and Lug Nut Damage
Always inspect the wheel studs and lug nuts for signs of damage from crossthreading or abuse.
You should never have to force wheel nuts down the stud. Lug nuts that are damaged may not
retain properly, yet give the impression of fully tightening. Always inspect and replace any
component suspected of damage.
Tip
Always start wheel nuts by hand! Be certain that all wheel nut threads have been engaged
BEFORE tightening the nut.
Important If the vehicle has directional tread tires, verify the directional arrow on the outboard side
of the tire is pointing in the direction of forward rotation.
Wheel Nut Tightening and Torque
Improper wheel nut tightening can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. In order to avoid
additional brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts to the proper torque specification as shown
for each vehicle in SI. Always observe the proper wheel nut tightening sequence as shown below in
order to avoid trapping the wheel on the wheel stud threads or clamping the wheel slightly off
center resulting in vibration.
The Most Important Service You Provide
While the above information is well known, and wheel removal so common, technicians run the risk
of becoming complacent on this very important
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 06-03-10-010A > Jun > 10 > Wheels - Changing
Procedures/Precautions > Page 2072
service operation. A simple distraction or time constraint that rushes the job may result in personal
injury if the greatest of care is not exercised. Make it a habit to double check your work and to
always side with caution when installing wheels.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 04-03-10-012B > Feb > 08 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel Brake Dust
Accumulation/Pitting
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Chrome Wheel Brake Dust Accumulation/Pitting
Bulletin No.: 04-03-10-012B
Date: February 01, 2008
INFORMATION
Subject: Pitting and Brake Dust on Chrome wheels
Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2008 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2005-2008 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
04-03-10-012A (Section 03 - Suspension).
Analysis of Returned Wheels
Chrome wheels returned under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty for pitting concerns have
recently been evaluated. This condition is usually most severe in the vent (or window) area of the
front wheels. This "pitting" may actually be brake dust that has been allowed to accumulate on the
wheel. The longer this accumulation builds up, the more difficult it is to remove.
Cleaning the Wheels
In all cases, the returned wheels could be cleaned to their original condition using GM Vehicle Care
Cleaner Wax, P/N 12377966 (in Canada, P/N 10952905). When using this product, you should
confine your treatment to the areas of the wheel that show evidence of the brake dust build-up.
This product is only for use on chromed steel or chromed aluminum wheels.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Wheel replacement for this condition is NOT applicable under the terms of the New Vehicle Limited
Warranty.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 99-03-10-102 > Jun > 99 > Warranty - OE Chrome Plated Aluminum
Wheel ID
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Warranty - OE Chrome Plated Aluminum Wheel ID
File In Section: 03 - Suspension
Bulletin No.: 99-03-10-102
Date: June, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Original Equipment Chrome Plated Aluminum Wheel Identification
Models: 1999 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
Chrome plated aluminum wheels have been returned to the Warranty Parts Center that are not the
original equipment (OE) components.
Original equipment chrome plated aluminum wheels can be identified by either a balance weight
clip retention groove (1) or a step (2) that is machined around both of the wheel's rim flanges. The
rim flanges (3) of painted original equipment aluminum wheels do not have a groove or a step.
Chrome plated aluminum wheels that do not have the wheel rim flange groove or step are
aftermarket chrome plated components and are NOT warrantable. Any aftermarket chrome wheels
received by the Warranty Parts Center will be charged back to the dealership.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 72-05-05 > Aug > 97 > Warranty - Guidelines for Using E0420 Wheel
Replace
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Warranty - Guidelines for Using E0420 Wheel Replace
File In Section: Warranty Administration
Bulletin No.: 72-05-05
Date: August, 1997
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Subject: Guidelines for Using EO42O Wheel Replace
Models: 1989-98 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide service personnel with guidelines for using the above
subject labor operation.
Effective with repair orders dated on or after September 1, 1997, dealers are to be guided by the
following:
^ Aluminum Wheels (including chrome plated) with Porosity - Wheels that exhibit porosity should
be repaired as described in the vehicle service manual. Wheels should not be replaced without
wholesale approval.
^ Aluminum Wheels (except chrome plated) with a "Finish Defect" - Wheels that exhibit a defect in
the finish, (i.e., discoloration or surface degradation) should be refinished as described in the
Corporate Service Bulletin Number 53-17-03A released in May, 1996.
^ Chrome Wheels - Wheels that are chromed and found to have a finish defect can only be
replaced.
^ Aluminum and chrome wheels replaced under warranty will be subject to random part review and
inspection. Those wheels inspected and found not to be defective and/or should have been
repaired, will be subject to charge back.
Wheels damaged by normal wear, road hazards, car wash brushes, or other physical or chemical
damage are not eligible for warranty coverage.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 2085
Wheels: Specifications
Maximum Lateral Runout:
Aluminum Wheels ................................................................................................................................
........................................... 0.76 mm (0.030 inch) Steel Wheels ........................................................
............................................................................................................................ 1.14 mm (0.045
inch)
Maximum Radial Runout:
Aluminum Wheels ................................................................................................................................
........................................... 0.76 mm (0.030 inch) Steel Wheels ........................................................
............................................................................................................................ 1.01 mm (0.040
inch)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service
Precautions > Technician Safety Information
Wheels: Technician Safety Information
WARNING: This vehicle has a Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System. Refer to the SIR
Component and Wiring Location view in order to determine whether you are performing service on
or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring. When you are performing service on or near the SIR
components or the SIR wiring, refer to the SIR On-Vehicle Service information. Failure to follow the
WARNINGS could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
WARNING: To help avoid personal Injury when a vehicle is on a hoist, provide additional support
for the vehicle at the opposite end from which components are being removed. This will reduce the
possibility of the vehicle slipping from the hoist.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service
Precautions > Technician Safety Information > Page 2088
Wheels: Vehicle Damage Warnings
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the correct location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and the joint clamping
force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening
sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and
systems.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Description and
Operation > General Information
Wheels: Description and Operation General Information
The factory installed tires and wheels are designed to operate with loads up to and including the full
rated load capacity when inflated to the recommended inflation pressures.
Correct tire pressures, wheel alignment and driving techniques have an influence on tire life.
Important: Heavy cornering, excessive rapid acceleration, and heavy braking will increase tire
wear.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Description and
Operation > General Information > Page 2091
Wheels: Description and Operation Wheels
Wheels must be replaced if they are bent, dented, have excessive lateral or radial runout, leak air
through welds, have elongated bolt holes, if wheel nuts won't stay tight, or if they are heavily
rusted. Wheels with excessive runout may cause objectionable vibrations.
Replacement wheels must be equivalent to the original equipment wheels in load capacity,
diameter, rim width, offset, and mounting configuration. A wheel of improper size or type may affect
wheel and bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer/odometer calibration, vehicle ground clearance,
and tire clearance to the body and chassis.
Steel wheels can be identified by a two or three-letter code stamped into the rim near the valve
stem. Aluminum wheels have the code, part number, and manufacturer ID cast into their back side.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > General Information
Wheels: Testing and Inspection General Information
Wheel runout should be measured with an accurate dial indicator. Measurements may be taken
with the wheel installed on the vehicle, or off the vehicle using an accurate mounting surface such
as on a wheel balancer. Measurements may also be taken with or without the tire mounted on the
wheel.
Radial runout and lateral runout should be measured on both the inboard and outboard rim flanges.
With the dial indicator firmly in position, slowly rotate the wheel one revolution and record the total
indicator reading. If any measurement exceeds specifications, and there is a vibration that wheel
balancing will not correct, the wheel should be replaced. Disregard any indicator readings due to
welds, paint runs, scratches, etc.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > General Information > Page 2094
Wheels: Testing and Inspection Steel Wheels
^ Radial runout 1.01 mm (0.040 inch)
^ Lateral runout 1.14 mm (0.045 inch)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > General Information > Page 2095
Wheels: Testing and Inspection Aluminum Wheels
^ Radial runout 0.76 mm (0.030 inch)
^ Lateral runout 0.76 mm (0.030 inch)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service and Repair
> On-Vehicle Service
Wheels: Service and Repair On-Vehicle Service
Wheel Removal
GENERAL INFORMATION
Penetrating oil has not been found to be effective in removing tight wheels. However, if it is used, it
should be applied sparingly to the wheel center hole area only.
CAUTION: If penetrating oil gets on the vertical surfaces between the wheel and the rotor or drum,
it could cause the wheel to work loose as the vehicle is driven, resulting in a loss of control and an
injury accident. Never use heat to loosen a tight wheel. It can shorten the life of the wheel, studs or
hub and bearing assemblies. Wheel nuts must be tightened in sequence and to the proper fastener
tightening specification to avoid bending the wheel or rotor.
Sometimes wheels can be difficult to remove due to foreign material or a tight fit between the wheel
center hole and the rotor. Excessive force such as hammering the wheel or tire can cause damage
and is not recommended. Slight tapping on the tire sidewall using a large rubber mallet is
acceptable.
The wheel can be removed without damage as follows: 1. Tighten all wheel nuts on the affected
wheel. Then loosen each nut two turns. Rock the vehicle side to side. If this is not effective, go to
step 2.2. 2. Rock the vehicle from "DRIVE" to "REVERSE," allowing the vehicle to move several
feet in each direction. Apply quick, hard jabs on the brake
pedal to loosen the wheel. If the wheel still does not free up, then rock the vehicle again from side
to side as hard as possible using one or more persons' body weight. If the wheel is still tight, repeat
the procedure.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle and suitably support. 2. Wheel cover, if equipped. 3. Wheel nuts.
^ Mark location of tire and wheel assembly to hub assembly.
^ Clean wheel nuts, studs and the wheel and brake drum or rotor mounting surfaces.
CAUTION: Before installing a wheel, remove any buildup of corrosion on the wheel mounting
surface and brake drum or rotor by scraping and wire brushing. Installing wheels without good
metal-to-metal contact at the mounting surfaces can cause wheel nuts to loosen, which may later
allow the wheel to come off while the vehicle is in motion.
Wheel Installation
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Hub cap on aluminum wheel, if removed. 2. Tire and wheel assembly.
^ Align locating mark of tire and wheel to hub assembly.
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for the application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener tightening specification and the
joint clamping force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct
tightening sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to
parts and systems.
CAUTION: Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. Tighten the wheel nuts with your fingers until
they are snug. Then, tighten the nuts (in the sequence shown) to the fastener tightening
specification, refer SPECIFICATIONS. Improperly tightened wheel nuts could
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service and Repair
> On-Vehicle Service > Page 2098
eventually allow the wheel to come off while the vehicle is moving, possibly causing loss of control,
personal injury and property damage.
3. Wheel nuts.
^ Tighten wheel nuts in sequence to 140 Nm (100 ft. lbs.).
4. Wheel cover, if equipped. 5. Lower vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service and Repair
> On-Vehicle Service > Page 2099
Wheels: Service and Repair Aluminum Wheels - Additional Information
Aluminum Wheel Hub Cap
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle and suitably support. 2. Tire and wheel assembly. 3. Hub cap.
^ Place a block of wood approximately 50 mm (2 inches) in diameter with a squared off end against
the back surface of the cap. A sharp hammer blow on the block of wood will remove the cap.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Hub cap
^ Place cap into position at wheel opening and place a block of wood at least 75 mm (3 inches) on
diameter against cap face. Install cabby striking block of wood with hammer.
NOTICE: Failure to hit cap squarely without the load distributed evenly could result in permanent
damage to the cap.
2. Tire and wheel assembly.
Aluminum Wheel Porosity Repair
1. Raise vehicle and suitably support. 2. Remove tire and wheel assembly. 3. Locate leaking areas
by inflating tire to 275 kPa (40 psi) and dipping tire and wheel assembly into a water bath. 4. Mark
leak areas and remove tire from wheel. Refer to TIRE MOUNTING AND DISMOUNTING. 5. Scuff
inside rim surface at leak area with 80 number grit sandpaper and clean area with general purpose
cleaner such as 3M P/N 08984 or
equivalent.
6. Apply 3 mm (1/8") thick layer of adhesive/sealant P/N 1052366 or equivalent to leak area and
allow six hours of drying time.
CAUTION: To avoid serious personal injury, do not stand over tire when inflating. Bead may break
when bead snaps over safety hump. Do not exceed 275 kPa (40 psi) pressure when inflating any
tire if beads are not seated. If 275 kPa (40 psi) pressure will not seat beads, deflate, lubricate the
beads and reinflate. Overinflation may cause the bead to break and cause serious personal injury.
7. Mount tire on wheel, pressurize to 275 kPa (40 psi) and check for leaks. Refer to TIRE
MOUNTING AND DISMOUNTING. 8. Adjust tire pressure to meet specifications. 9. Balance tire
and wheel assembly.
10. Install tire and wheel assembly.
General Information
A protective clear or color coating is applied to the surface of original equipment cast aluminum
wheels. A surface degradation condition can begin to develop if this clear coating is damaged or
removed. This can happen at some automatic car wash facilities using aggressive silicon carbide
tipped tire brushes to clean white walls and tires. Once the protective coating is damaged,
exposure to caustic cleaners and/or road salt further causes surface degradation. The following
procedure details how to strip, clean and coat aluminum wheels that are affected by these
conditions.
Required Materials: ^
Amchem Alumi Prep number 33 - stock number DX533 or equivalent - cleaning and conditioning
chemical for aluminum.
^ Amchem Alodine number 1001 - stock number DXSOT or equivalent - coating chemical for
aluminum.
^ Ditzler Delclear Acrylic Urethane Clear - stock number DAU-75 or equivalent.
^ Ditzler Delthane Ultra-Urethane Additive - stock DXR-80 or equivalent.
Initial Preparation
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle. Refer to WHEEL REMOVAL.
^ Match mark tire for reinstallation of outboard wheel weights after recoating of wheel.
2. Outboard wheel weights.
^ Clean: Wheel inside and out with a water base all purpose cleaner. Remove grease or oil with a solvent
cleaner.
Accent Color Preparation
^ Sand over painted areas that do not require recoloring with number 400 grit (wet or dry) to
promote adhesion of clear coat.
Surface Damage
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service and Repair
> On-Vehicle Service > Page 2100
CAUTION: Do not use vehicle power to rotate the wheel while sanding or personal Injury may
result.
1. Mount tire and wheel on brake lathe and spin slowly.
NOTICE: Do not use abrasive coarser than 80 grit or wheel may be damaged.
2. Sand wheel with backing block or pad by holding abrasive flat to surface of wheel and moving
slowly back and forth from center to outer edge to
remove damage. Use the following sandpaper grits in the order listed. A. Sand with number 80 grit
sandpaper. B. Sand with number 150 grit sandpaper. C. Sand with number 240 grit sandpaper.
3. Continue with "RECOATING PROCEDURE."
Clear Coat Damage on Unpainted Wheels
CAUTION: Use of rubber gloves and eye protection Is necessary to prevent personal injury.
1. Apply chemical stripper.
^ Allow stripper to penetrate coating.
^ Use small 1/4 inch detail brush dipped in stripper to apply material around perimeter and
spoke-like areas.
2. Remove stripper following manufacturers recommendations.
CAUTION: Do not use vehicle power to rotate the wheel while sanding or personal injury may
result.
3. Sand wheel with 240 grit while rotating wheel on a slow spinning brake lathe or by mounting on
vehicle and spinning by hand. This will restore
the machined appearance and promote adhesion.
4. Continue with "RECOATING PROCEDURE."
Recoating Procedure
CAUTION: Use of rubber gloves and eye protection Is necessary to prevent personal Injury.
1. Clean surface of contaminants by washing with soap and water. 2. Spray the wheel with
Amchem number 33 or equivalent.
^ Let the wheel soak for 1 to 3 minutes.
^ Rinse the wheel with water and blow dry.
3. Soak wheel with Amchem #1001 or equivalent.
^ Let the wheel soak for 1 to 3 minutes.
^ Rinse the wheel with water and blow dry.
4. Mask off the tire.
CAUTION: To avoid serious personal injury when applying any two part component paint system,
follow the specific precautions provided by the paint manufacturer. Failure to follow these
precautions may cause lung irritation and allergic respiratory reaction.
5. Finish the wheel with Ditzler Delclear Acrylic Urethane and Ditzler Ultra-Urethane Additive or
equivalent using three coats. Refer to labels for
specific directions. ^
First Coat - Light mist coat, let flash.
^ Second Coat - Light, let flash.
^ Third Coat - Heavy double wet coat.
6. Let the wheel dry for 24 hours (or flash for 30 minutes) or force dry at 60° C (140° F) for 30
minutes, then allow to cool for 30 minutes before
mounting.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Balance wheel and tire assembly.
^ Replace the original balance weights with nylon coated weights to avoid discoloration of the
wheel.
2. Tire and wheel assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service and Repair
> On-Vehicle Service > Page 2101
Wheels: Service and Repair Wheel Repair
Wheel repairs that use welding, heating, or peening are not approved. An inner tube is not an
acceptable repair for leaky wheels or tires. Porosity in aluminum wheels can be repaired. Refer to
"ALUMINUM WHEEL POROSITY REPAIR".
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service and Repair
> On-Vehicle Service > Page 2102
Wheels: Service and Repair Balancing Tire and Wheel
General Balance Precautions
Deposits of foreign material must be cleaned from the inside of the wheel. When balancing
aluminum and composite wheels, the balancer pressure cup should have a protective plastic or
rubber edge on it to avoid damaging the rim surface finish. Stones should be removed from the
tread in order to avoid operator injury during spin balancing and to obtain a good balance. The tire
should be inspected for any damage, then balanced according to the equipment manufacturer's
recommendations.
General Information
There are two types of tire and wheel balancing, static and dynamic. Static balance is the equal
distribution of weight around the wheel. Assemblies that are statically unbalanced cause a
bouncing action called wheel tramp. This condition may eventually cause uneven tire wear.
Dynamic balance is the equal distribution of weight on each side of the centerline so that when the
assembly spins there is no tendency for it to move from side to side. Assemblies that are
dynamically unbalanced may cause wheel shimmy.
Off-Vehicle Balancing
Wheel balancing should be performed using an electronic off-vehicle balancer. They are easy to
use and give both a static and a dynamic balance. Although they do not correct for drum or rotor
unbalance as does on-vehicle spin balancing, this is overcome by their accuracy (usually to within
1/8 ounce). When balancing off-vehicle, the wheel should locate on the balancer with a cone
through the back side of the center pilot hole (not by the wheel stud holes).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service and Repair
> On-Vehicle Service > Page 2103
On-Vehicle Balancing
When needed, on-vehicle balancing will help correct vibrations due to brake drum, rotor, and wheel
cover imbalance.
The front suspension should not be allowed to hang free. When the CV joint is run at a very high
angle, extra vibrations can occur, resulting in damage to boots and joints. Always follow the
equipment manufacturer's instructions.
When balancing on-vehicle, do not remove the balance weights from the off-vehicle dynamic
balance. If more than one ounce of additional weight is required, it should be split between the
inner and outer rim flange.
NOTICE: The driven tire and wheel assemblies should be spun using the engine. Limit speed as
stated in the following Caution.
CAUTION: Do not spin the drive wheels faster than 55 km/h (35 mph) as indicated by the
speedometer. This limit is necessary because the speedometer indicates only one-half of the
actual wheel speed when one drive wheel is spinning and the other drive wheel is stopped.
Personal injury and damage may result from high speed spinning.
Wheel Balance Weights
When static balancing, if more than 40 grams (1.0 oz.) are needed, the wheel weights should be
split as equal as possible between the inboard and outboard flanges.
Balancing factory aluminum wheels requires the use of special nylon coated clip on wheel weights.
These weights are designed to fit over the thicker rim flange of the aluminum wheel and should be
installed with a plastic tipped hammer.
Adhesive wheel weights are also available. Use the following procedure to install adhesive wheel
weights.
Adhesive Wheel Weight Installation: 1. Clean wheel by sanding to bare aluminum where wheel
weight is to be located. 2. Wipe wheel weight attachment area with a mixture of half Isopropyl
alcohol and half water. A clean cloth or paper towel must be used for this
operation.
3. Dry the attachment area with hot air. Surface of wheel should be warm to the touch. 4. The
adhesive backing on wheel weights must be warmed to room temperature. 5. Remove tape from
back of weights. Do not touch the adhesive surface. 6. Apply wheel weight and press on with hand
pressure. 7. Secure wheel weight with a 70 - 110 N (16 - 25 lbs.) force applied with a roller.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Specifications
Wheel Bearing: Specifications
This vehicle uses a sealed wheel bearing and lubricating grease is not required.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2107
Wheel Bearing: Description and Operation
A non-serviceable unit hub and bearing is bolted to the knuckle. This hub and bearing is a sealed,
maintenance free unit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
Wheel Bearing: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures > Page 2110
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures > Page 2111
Wheel Bearing: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures > Page 2112
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front Suspension
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Front Suspension
FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS AND/OR HUB
^ Tools Required: J 28733-A Front Hub Spindle Remover
- Or Equivalent
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Drive axle. 2. Brake caliper bolts, and support caliper. 3. Brake Rotor. 4. Hub and bearing
assembly. 5. Hub and bearing assembly from steering knuckle. 6. Hub and bearing.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Hub and bearing assembly to steering knuckle. 2. Hub and bearing assembly bolts.
^ Tighten hub and bearing assembly bolts to 95 Nm (70 ft lb).
3. Brake Rotor. 4. Brake caliper and bolts. Refer to Brakes and Traction Control. 5. New hub and
bearing into steering knuckle. 6. Drive axle. 7. Check front wheel alignment.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front Suspension > Page 2115
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Rear Suspension
REAR WHEEL BEARINGS AND/OR HUB
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle. 2. Wheel and tire assemblies. 3. Brake drum.
NOTICE: Do not hammer on brake drum damage to the assembly could result.
4. Rear ABS wheel speed sensor wire connector. 5. Remove hub and bearing assembly from axle.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Connect rear ABS wheel speed sensor wire connector. 2. Hub and Bearing assembly.
^ Tighten hub and bearing to axle bolts to 95 Nm (70 ft lb).
3. Brake drum. 4. Wheel and tire assembly. 5. Lower vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Cover > Component Information > Service and
Repair
Wheel Cover: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle and suitably support. 2. Tire and wheel assembly. 3. Hub cap.
^ Place a block of wood approximately 50 mm (2 inches) in diameter with a squared off end against
the back surface of the cap. A sharp hammer blow on the block of wood will remove the cap.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Hub cap
^ Place cap into position at wheel opening and place a block of wood at least 75 mm (3 inches) on
diameter against cap face. Install cabby striking block of wood with hammer.
NOTICE: Failure to hit cap squarely without the load distributed evenly could result in permanent
damage to the cap.
2. Tire and wheel assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Drive Axles - Improved Axle Nut Availability
Axle Nut: Technical Service Bulletins Drive Axles - Improved Axle Nut Availability
File In Section: 04 - Driveline Axle
Bulletin No.: 03-04-18-001
Date: February, 2003
INFORMATION
Subject: Availability of New Front Drive Axle Nut
Models: 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero 1999-2003 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin is to inform dealers that a new and improved front drive axle nut has been released for
service of the above listed vehicles.
Use the new nut, P/N 10289657, whenever the front drive axle nut is removed. This new nut is a
torque prevailing nut and is silver in color. The old nut is black in color and has a sheet metal cage
around the nut (shown below). Using the new nut will provide a more consistent clamp load on the
wheel bearing and should help prolong the bearing life.
Notice:
Use the correct tightening specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts
and systems.
Torque
Tighten the new nut to 235 N.m (173 lb ft). The old nut torque was 385 N.m (284 lb ft).
Important:
Some front wheel hub kits may have the old style nut included in the kit. Discard the old nut and
use the new nut, P/N 10289657.
New Style Nut
The nut shown is a torque prevailing nut and is silver colored.
Old Style Nut
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Drive Axles - Improved Axle Nut Availability > Page 2124
The old style nut shown is black and has a sheet metal cage around the nut.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Drive Axles - Improved Axle Nut Availability > Page 2125
Axle Nut: Technical Service Bulletins Steering - Various Revised Tightening Specifications
CHEVROLET 73-32-03A
Issued: 05/01/97
SMU - SECTIONS 3B/3C/4D
REVISION: 04/11/97
THIS BULLETIN IS BEING REVISED TO UPDATE THE DRIVE AXLE NUT TIGHTENING
SPECIFICATIONS FOR THE N CAR. PLEASE DISCARD CORPORATE BULLETIN NUMBER
73-32-03 (SECTION 3 - STEERING/SUSPENSION).
SUBJECT: SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE - SECTIONS 3B/3C/4D - REVISED TIGHTENING
SPECIFICATIONS
MODELS: 1997 CHEVROLET CAVALIER, MALIBU 1997 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS 1997
PONTIAC SUNFIRE
THIS BULLETIN IS BEING ISSUED TO REVISE THE TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS IN
SECTIONS 3B, 3C AND 4D OF THE SERVICE MANUAL AS FOLLOWS:
J CAR
SECTIONS 3B-8, 3B-9, 3C-5 AND 3C-13:
THE CORRECT TIGHTENING SPECIFICATION IS AS FOLLOWS:
- TIE ROD END TO KNUCKLE NUT 20 N.M (15 LB FT) PLUS 90 DEGREE ROTATION.
N CAR
SECTIONS 3C-6 AND 3C-16:
THE CORRECT TIGHTENING SPECIFICATION IS AS FOLLOWS:
- TIE ROD END TO KNUCKLE NUT 20 N.M (15 LB FT) PLUS 180 DEGREE ROTATION.
SECTION 3B-12:
THE CORRECT TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS ARE AS FOLLOWS:
- STEERING COLUMN LOWER PINCH BOLT 22 N.M (16 LB FT)
- STEERING COLUMN UPPER PINCH BOLT 22 N.M (16 LB FT)
SECTIONS 3C-16, 4D-4 AND 4D-5:
THE CORRECT TIGHTENING SPECIFICATION IS AS FOLLOWS:
- FRONT DRIVE AXLE NUT 385 N.M (284 LB FT) +/- 5 N.M (44 LB IN). REPLACE THE DRIVE
AXLE NUT WITH A NEW ONE AFTER EVERY REMOVAL. NEVER RE-USE THE DRIVE AXLE
NUT.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2126
Axle Nut: Specifications
Service Manual Update #73-32-03A
Drive Axle Nut (New)
............................................................................................................................................... 385 Nm
(284 ft lb) +/- 5 Nm (44 in lb)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Wheel Fastener: > 01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04 > Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut Covers
Loose/Missing
Wheel Fastener: Customer Interest Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Loose/Missing
Bulletin No.: 01-03-10-009A
Date: July 27, 2004
TECHNICAL
Subject: Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Missing and/or Loose (Replace Missing Covers and Add
Sealant to All Covers)
Models: 2005 and All Prior Passenger Cars (Except All Cadillac Models and Pontiac GTO)
with Plastic Wheel Nut Covers
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add additional models years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 01-03-10-009.
Condition
Some customers may comment that the plastic wheel nut covers are missing and/or loose.
Correction
Important:
^ DO NOT USE a silicone-based adhesive.
^ Do not apply the *permatex(R) around the threads in a circular pattern.
^ Apply a single bead across the threads approximately 10 mm (0.4 in) in length, 5 mm (0.2 in) in
height and 5 mm (0.2 in) in width.
Replace any missing plastic wheel nut covers with the appropriate covers and apply Permatex(R) #
2 Form A Gasket Sealant(R) to the threads of all the plastic wheel nut covers. Tighten finger tight
plus a 1/4 turn with a hand wrench.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such material.
General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the
products from this firm or for any other such items which may be available from other sources.
Permatex(R) # 2 Form A Gasket Sealant(R) part numbers (available at your local parts supplier)
^ P/N 80009 (2A/2AR) - 44 ml (1.5 oz) tube boxed
^ P/N 80015 (2AR) - 44 ml (1.5 oz) tube carded
^ P/N 80010 (2B/2BR) - 89 ml (3 oz) tube boxed
^ P/N 80016 (2BR) - 89 ml (3 oz) tube carded
^ P/N 80011 (2C) - 325 ml (11 oz) tube boxed
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Wheel Fastener: > 01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04 > Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut Covers
Loose/Missing > Page 2135
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheel Fastener: > 01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04 > Wheels - Plastic Wheel
Nut Covers Loose/Missing
Wheel Fastener: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Loose/Missing
Bulletin No.: 01-03-10-009A
Date: July 27, 2004
TECHNICAL
Subject: Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Missing and/or Loose (Replace Missing Covers and Add
Sealant to All Covers)
Models: 2005 and All Prior Passenger Cars (Except All Cadillac Models and Pontiac GTO)
with Plastic Wheel Nut Covers
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add additional models years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 01-03-10-009.
Condition
Some customers may comment that the plastic wheel nut covers are missing and/or loose.
Correction
Important:
^ DO NOT USE a silicone-based adhesive.
^ Do not apply the *permatex(R) around the threads in a circular pattern.
^ Apply a single bead across the threads approximately 10 mm (0.4 in) in length, 5 mm (0.2 in) in
height and 5 mm (0.2 in) in width.
Replace any missing plastic wheel nut covers with the appropriate covers and apply Permatex(R) #
2 Form A Gasket Sealant(R) to the threads of all the plastic wheel nut covers. Tighten finger tight
plus a 1/4 turn with a hand wrench.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such material.
General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the
products from this firm or for any other such items which may be available from other sources.
Permatex(R) # 2 Form A Gasket Sealant(R) part numbers (available at your local parts supplier)
^ P/N 80009 (2A/2AR) - 44 ml (1.5 oz) tube boxed
^ P/N 80015 (2AR) - 44 ml (1.5 oz) tube carded
^ P/N 80010 (2B/2BR) - 89 ml (3 oz) tube boxed
^ P/N 80016 (2BR) - 89 ml (3 oz) tube carded
^ P/N 80011 (2C) - 325 ml (11 oz) tube boxed
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheel Fastener: > 01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04 > Wheels - Plastic Wheel
Nut Covers Loose/Missing > Page 2141
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information >
Specifications > Tightening Torque
Wheel Fastener: Specifications Tightening Torque
Wheels Nuts ........................................................................................................................................
.................................................. 140 Nm (100 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information >
Specifications > Tightening Torque > Page 2144
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2145
Wheel Fastener: Application and ID
All models use metric wheel nuts and wheel studs. The nut will have the word "metric" stamped on
the face and the stud will have the letter "M" stamped into the threaded end. The word "metric" is
stamped on the head.
The thread size of the metric wheel nuts and wheel studs are "M12 x 1.5." This signifies: M = Metric
12 = Diameter in millimeters 1.5 = Millimeters per thread
If a broken stud is found, refer to FRONT SUSPENSION or REAR SUSPENSION for replacement
procedure.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension
Wheel Fastener: Service and Repair Front Suspension
^ Tools Required: J 6627-A Wheel Stud Remover
- J 28733-A Front Hub Spindle Remover.
- Or Equivalents
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Hub and bearing assembly. 2. Wheel stud from hub and bearing assembly using tool J 6627-A.
Discard stud.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. New wheel stud into hub and bearing assembly. 2. Flat washers and nut (flat side down) onto
wheel stud, and tighten until wheel stud is fully seated. 3. Hub and bearing assembly. 4. Check
front wheel alignment.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 2148
Wheel Fastener: Service and Repair Rear Suspension
^ Tool Required: J 6627-A Wheel Stud Remover
- Or Equivalent
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Wheel and tire assembly. 2. Brake drum.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 2149
NOTICE: Do not hammer on brake drum as damage to the bearing or deformation of the drum
could result.
3. Wheel stud using tool J 6627-A. 4. Dispose of stud.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. New stud (insert from back side of hub). 2. Four flat washers on stud. 3. Wheel nut (install with
flat side toward washers). 4. Tighten nut until stud head is properly seated in hub flange. 5.
Remove nut and washers. 6. Brake drum. 7. Wheel and tire assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Towing Information > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Vehicle - Recreational (Dinghy) Towing Information
Towing Information: Technical Service Bulletins Vehicle - Recreational (Dinghy) Towing Information
Bulletin No.: 00-00-89-008F
Date: July 28, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Recreational (Dinghy) Towing
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Towing Information > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Vehicle - Recreational (Dinghy) Towing Information > Page 2154
Models
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years, models and additional information. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-00-89-008E (Section 00 - General Information).
Some customers may want to tow their vehicle behind another vehicle with all FOUR tires on the
ground. This is referred to as "dinghy" towing. Towing in this manner is acceptable only on the
certain vehicles. The vehicle should be properly equipped and prepared as described below. The
passenger cars listed above are the vehicles that CAN be dinghy towed. Passenger cars not listed
above are vehicles where dinghy towing is not permitted or recommended.
Certain 4WD trucks can be dinghy towed depending on the transfer case option. Rear wheel drive
and AWD trucks should NOT be dinghy towed. Refer to the truck models and transfer case options
below.
Please refer to the applicable vehicle Owner's Manual before towing.
Passenger Cars
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Towing Information > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Vehicle - Recreational (Dinghy) Towing Information > Page 2155
Note:
The vehicles shown must not be towed backwards or transmission damage may occur.
Towing Procedure
Note:
Failure to follow these instructions may result in damage to the transmission.
Important:
The towing speed as stated in the Owner's Manual should not exceed 104 km/h (65 mph) for
1995-2005 vehicles.
In order to properly dinghy tow the vehicle, follow these steps:
1. Firmly set the parking brake.
2. Open the fuse panel and pull the fuse(s) indicated in the Owner's Manual section detailing
towing your vehicle. This prevents the instrument panel (IP) and/or electronic PRNDL indicator
from draining the battery.
3. Securely attach the vehicle to the tow vehicle.
4. Turn the ignition key to the OFF position, which is one position forward of LOCK. Unlocking the
steering column allows for proper movement of the front wheels and tires during towing.
For 1997-1999 Cutlass, 1997-2003 Malibu, 2004-2006 Chevrolet Classic and 1999-2004
Alero/Grand Am models, turn the ignition switch to the accessory (ACC) position, which is one
position forward of OFF. This position unlocks the transaxle.
5. Shift the transmission to Neutral (N).
Note:
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Towing Information > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Vehicle - Recreational (Dinghy) Towing Information > Page 2156
Use extra care whenever towing another vehicle. Do not exceed the towing vehicle's gross
combination weight (GCW) by adding the weight of the dinghy towed vehicle or vehicle damage
may result.
6. When the vehicle being towed is firmly attached to the tow vehicle, release the parking brake.
7. Replace the fuse(s) in the fuse panel when finished towing.
Tracker Models
Note:
Locking the steering column when towing your vehicle may damage the steering column. Always
unlock the steering column before towing.
Important:
^ Two-wheel drive Trackers cannot be dinghy towed. Two-wheel drive models MUST be towed with
the rear drive wheels on a dolly.
^ The towing speed must not exceed 90 km/h (55 mph).
In order to properly dinghy tow a 4WD Tracker, follow these steps:
1. Set the parking brake.
2. Shift the transmission into Park (AT) or second gear (MT).
3. With the ignition key in the ON position, move the transfer case to Neutral. Make sure the 4WD
indicator on the instrument panel cluster is Off.
4. Turn the ignition key to ACC in order to unlock the steering wheel.
5. Release the parking brake.
Stop towing the vehicle every 300 km (200 mi) and do the following steps:
1. Start the engine of the towed vehicle.
2. Leave the transfer case shift lever in Neutral.
3. Shift the transmission to Drive (AT). For vehicles with (MT), leave the transmission in second
gear with the clutch engaged.
4. Run the engine at medium speed for one minute to circulate the oil through the transfer case.
2003-2007 Pontiac Vibe
Only the front wheel drive vehicles with manual transmission are designed to be dinghy towed. Use
the following procedure to properly dinghy tow these models:
1. Place the shift lever in Neutral.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position to avoid locking the steering wheel. Make sure that
the audio system is turned off and that nothing is plugged into the power outlets.
3. Release the parking brake.
4. After dinghy towing the vehicle, let the engine idle for more than three minutes before driving the
vehicle.
Four Wheel Drive and All Wheel Drive Light Duty Trucks
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Towing Information > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Vehicle - Recreational (Dinghy) Towing Information > Page 2157
Dinghy towing is permitted on the trucks shown with the transfer case placed in the Neutral
position. Refer to the end of this bulletin for identification information to determine type of transfer
case.
The vehicles shown should NOT be dinghy towed because the transfer cases in these vehicles
either have no neutral position or do not have an internal oil pump to provide lubrication while being
towed. In order to properly tow the vehicles, place the vehicle on a platform trailer with all four tires
off the ground. Avoid towing the vehicle with all four tires on the ground. In rare instances when
towing with all four tires on the ground is unavoidable, both the front and the rear propeller shafts
must be removed in order to prevent damage to the transfer case and/or transmission. Because
front and rear propeller shafts are matched to attaching components at assembly, refer to the
applicable Service Manual for procedures on propeller shaft removal/installation.
Towing Procedure
In order to properly dinghy tow the vehicle, use the following procedure:
1. Firmly set the parking brake.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Towing Information > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Vehicle - Recreational (Dinghy) Towing Information > Page 2158
2. Place the AT in Park (P) or the MT in the lowest gear (1st).
3. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the tow vehicle.
Caution:
Shifting the transfer case to Neutral can cause the vehicle to roll, even if the transmission is in park
(automatic) or 1st gear (manual), and may cause personal injury.
4. If equipped, place the transfer case shift lever in Neutral (N).
Note:
Use extra care whenever towing another vehicle. Do not exceed the towing vehicle's gross
combination weight (GCW) by adding the weight of the dinghy towed vehicle or vehicle damage
may result.
5. When the vehicle being towed is firmly attached to the tow vehicle, release the parking brake.
6. The Owner's Manual specifies the appropriate ignition key position to ensure that the steering is
unlocked to allow the front wheels to follow the tow vehicle.
Rear Wheel Drive Light Duty Trucks
Important:
^ Dust or dirt can enter the back of the transmission through the opening created by the removal of
the slip yoke from the transmission if proper protection is not provided.
^ Verify that the transmission fluid is at the proper level before driving the truck.
Rear wheel drive vehicles, equipped with AT or MT, should NOT be dinghy towed. These
transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed. In order to properly tow
these vehicles, place the vehicle on a platform trailer with all four tires off the ground. Avoid towing
the vehicle with all four tires on the ground. In rare instances when it is unavoidable that a rear
wheel drive vehicle be dinghy towed, the propeller shaft to axle yoke orientation should be marked
and the propeller shaft removed. Refer to the applicable Service Manual for procedures on
propeller shaft removal/installation.
Transfer Case Identification
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Towing Information > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Vehicle - Recreational (Dinghy) Towing Information > Page 2159
The identification tag on the rear half of the transfer case provides the information shown.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Vehicle Lifting > Component Information > Service and Repair
Vehicle Lifting: Service and Repair
GENERAL VEHICLE LIFTING AND JACKING
CAUTION: To help avoid personal injury when a vehicle is on a hoist, provide additional support for
the vehicle at the opposite end from which components are being removed. The additional support
will reduce the possibility of the vehicle falling off the hoist. When removing major components from
the vehicle while the vehicle is on a hoist, the vehicle frame should be chained to the hoist pads at
the same end as the removed components to prevent tip-off. Failure to follow these precautionary
measures could result in vehicle damage, serious personal injury, or death.
CAUTION: To help avoid personal injury, always use jackstands when working on or under any
vehicle that is supported only by a jack.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Compression Check > System Information >
Specifications
Compression Check: Specifications
The lowest reading cylinder should not be less than 70% of the highest and no cylinder reading
should be less than 689 kPa (100 psi). Perform compression test with engine at normal operating
temperature, spark plugs removed and throttle wide open.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Compression Check > System Information >
Specifications > Page 2168
Compression Check: Testing and Inspection
TOOL REQUIRED
^ J 38722 Compression Tester
A compression pressure test of the engine cylinders determines the condition of the rings, the
valves and the head gasket.
CAUTION: This engine has aluminum cylinder heads. Allow the engine to cool before removing the
spark plugs, or the engine may be damaged.
1. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. The battery must be at or near full
charge. 2. Turn the engine OFF. 3. Disable the ignition system. See Powertrain Management. 4.
Disable the fuel system. See Powertrain Management.
CAUTION: Remove the ignition fuse and both of the injector fuses from the fuse box and/or
underhood electrical center.
5. Remove the spark plugs from all cylinders. See Powertrain Management. 6. Remove the air duct
from the throttle body. See Powertrain Management. 7. Block the throttle plate in open position. 8.
Measure the engine compression using the following procedure:
a. Install the Compression Tester firmly to the spark plug hole. b. Crank the engine through at least
ten compression strokes (or until the highest reading is achieved) in the cylinder being tested and
check the
readings on the Compression Tester at each stroke. Record the results.
c. Disconnect the Compression Tester. d. Repeat the compression test for each cylinder.
9. Record the compression readings from all of the cylinders.
^ The lowest reading should not be less than 70% of the highest reading.
^ No cylinder reading should be less than 689 kPa (100 psi).
10. When the compression measurement is normal, the compression builds up quickly and evenly
to the specified compression on each cylinder. 11. The following are problem areas:
^ If there is a problem with the piston ring, compression is low on the first stroke and tends to build
up on the following strokes, but does not reach normal. Compression improves considerably with
the addition of oil. Use approximately three squirts of oil from a plunger-type oiler.
^ If there is a problem with the valve, compression is low on the first stroke and it does not tend to
build up in following strokes. Compression does not improve much with the addition of oil. Use
approximately three squirts from a plunger type oiler.
^ Leaking head gaskets give nearly the same results as valve problems, but may be identified by
engine coolant in the crankcase. Head gasket leakage between two cylinders will give low readings
on both cylinders.
12. Remove the block from the throttle plate. 13. Install the air duct to the throttle body. See
Powertrain Management. 14. Install the spark plugs. See Powertrain Management. 15. Install the
ignition fuse and both fuel injector fuses to the fuse box and/or underhood electrical center.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft
Bearing > Component Information > Specifications
Camshaft Bearing: Specifications
DIMENSIONS
Bore Diameter
Front and Rear
...........................................................................................................................................
51.030-51.080 mm (2.009-2.011 inch) Middle #2 and #3
......................................................................................................................................
50.770-50.820 mm (1.999-2.001 inch)
Inside Diameter
...............................................................................................................................................
47.523-47.549 mm (1.871-1.872 inch)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft
Gear/Sprocket > Component Information > Specifications > Cam Gear Torque Specifications
Camshaft Gear/Sprocket: Specifications Cam Gear Torque Specifications
Camshaft Sprocket Bolt .......................................................................................................................
................................................. 140 Nm (103 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft
Gear/Sprocket > Component Information > Specifications > Cam Gear Torque Specifications > Page 2177
Camshaft Gear/Sprocket: Specifications Tightening Specifications
Sprocket Bolt .......................................................................................................................................
................................................... 110 Nm (81 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft,
Engine > Component Information > Specifications > Engine Mechanical Specifications
Camshaft: Specifications Engine Mechanical Specifications
Lobe Lift
Intake ...................................................................................................................................................
.......................... 6.9263 mm (0.2727 inch) Exhaust ............................................................................
.............................................................................................. 6.9256 mm (0.2727 inch)
Journal
Diameter
........................................................................................................................................................
47.45-47.48 mm (1.868-1.869 inch) Clearance
.......................................................................................................................................................
0.026-0.101 mm (0.001-0.004 inch)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft,
Engine > Component Information > Specifications > Engine Mechanical Specifications > Page 2182
Camshaft: Specifications Fastener Tightening Specifications
Camshaft Pulley/Gear Torque
Camshaft Sprocket Bolt .......................................................................................................................
................................................. 140 Nm (103 ft. lbs.)
Camshaft Position Sensor
Thrust Plate Screw ..............................................................................................................................
.................................................. 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.) Position Sensor Screw ....................................
....................................................................................................................................... 10 Nm (89
inch lbs.)
Camshaft Thrust Plate
Thrust Plate Screw ..............................................................................................................................
.................................................. 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.) Position Sensor Screw ....................................
....................................................................................................................................... 10 Nm (89
inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft,
Engine > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2183
Camshaft: Testing and Inspection
TOOL REQUIRED
^ J 8001 Dial Indicator
^ J 26900-13 Dial Indicator Post
1. Inspect the sprocket. 2. Inspect the keyway and the threads. 3. Inspect the bearing surfaces and
the lobes for damage. 4. Replace the camshaft if the camshaft is damaged. Do not attempt to
repair the camshaft.
5. Measure the bearing journals with a micrometer. Measure the diameter. Measure valve run-out.
Replace the camshaft if the bearing journals are
out of specification.
6. Use the following procedure in order to measure camshaft lift:
a. Lubricate the camshaft bearings with GM Camshaft and Lifter Prelube P/N 1052365 or the
equivalent. b. Set the camshaft on "V" blocks or between camshaft centers. c. Install the Dial
Indicator. Install the Dial Indicator Post. d. Measure the camshaft journal run-out. Measure the lobe
lift. Replace the camshaft if the camshaft lift is out of specification.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Lifter / Lash
Adjuster, Valve > Component Information > Specifications
Lifter / Lash Adjuster: Specifications
Lifter Type ............................................................................................................................................
.................................................................. Hydraulic
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Lifter / Lash
Adjuster, Valve > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2187
Lifter / Lash Adjuster: Description and Operation
OPERATION
A roller rocker type valve train is used. Motion is transmitted from the camshaft through the
hydraulic roller lifter and the pushrod to the roller rocker arm. The rocker arm pivots on needle roller
bearings and transmits the camshaft motion to the valve. The rocker arm pedestal locates in a slot
in the cylinder head and the rocker arm is retained in the cylinder head by a bolt. The pushrod is
located by the rocker arm.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Lifter / Lash
Adjuster, Valve > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
Lifter / Lash Adjuster: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Lifter / Lash
Adjuster, Valve > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures > Page
2190
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Lifter / Lash
Adjuster, Valve > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures > Page
2191
Lifter / Lash Adjuster: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
1. Keep the valve lifters in order so that they may be installed in their original position. 2. If the
lifters are removed, install them in their original position.
CAUTION: When new valve lifters are installed coat the valve lifters with camshaft and lifter
prelude GM P/N 1052365 (or equivalent).
3. Inspect the following areas of the lifters:
^ The lifter body for wear and scuffing
^ The lifter bore for wear
4. Inspect the valve rocker arms for wear at the rotation surfaces.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Lifter / Lash
Adjuster, Valve > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 2192
Lifter / Lash Adjuster: Service and Repair
REMOVAL
1. Depressurize the fuel system. See Fuel Pressure Release Procedure. 2. Disconnect the
negative battery cable. 3. Drain the coolant. Recover the coolant. See Cooling System. 4. Remove
the intake manifold. 5. Remove the rocker arms.
CAUTION: Keep the valve-lifters in order. You must install the lifters in the original position.
6. Remove the valve lifter guide bolts. 7. Remove the valve lifter guide. 8. Remove the valve lifter.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the lifters into their original positions. Coat the valve lifter with GM P/N 1052365 or its
equivalent. 2. Install the valve lifter guide. 3. Install the valve lifter guide bolts. Tighten the bolts to
10 Nm (89 inch lbs.). 4. Install the rocker arms. 5. Install the intake manifold. 6. Refill the engine
coolant. See Cooling System. 7. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Rocker Arm
Assembly > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Rocker Arm Bolt Tightening Specification
Update
Rocker Arm Assembly: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Rocker Arm Bolt Tightening
Specification Update
File In Section: 06 - Engine/propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 02-06-01-034
Date: October, 2002
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Revised Rocker Arm Bolt Fastener Tightening Specification
Models: 1996-1998 Buick Skylark 1996-2002 Buick Regal 1997-2002 Buick Century 1996
Chevrolet Beretta, Corsica, Lumina APV 1996-2001 Chevrolet Lumina 1996-2002 Chevrolet Monte
Carlo 1997 Chevrolet Venture 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 2000-2002 Chevrolet Impala
1996-1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, Silhouette 1996-1998 Oldsmobile Achieve 1998-1999
Oldsmobile Cutlass, Intrigue 1999-2002 Oldsmobile Alero 1996-1997 Pontiac Trans Sport
1996-2003 Pontiac Grand Am, Grand Prix with 3.1L or 3.4L Engine (VINs M, J, E - RPOs L82,
LG8, LA1)
This bulletin is being issued to revise the rocker arm bolt fastener tightening specification found in
several procedures in the Engine Mechanical - 3.1L sub-section and the Engine Mechanical - 3.4L
sub-section of the Service Manual. Please replace the current information in the Service Manual
with the following information.
The following information has been updated within SI. If you are using a paper version of this
Service Manual, please make a reference to this bulletin on the affected page.
The correct torque for the rocker arm bolt is 14 N.m (124 lb in) plus 30 degrees. This specification
can be found in Fastener Tightening Specifications, Valve Rocker Arm and Push Rod Replacement
and Lower Intake Manifold Replacement (for 1996 Chevrolet Beretta/Corsica, 1996-1997 Buick
Skylark, Pontiac Grand Am, Oldsmobile Achieva and 1997 Chevrolet Malibu ONLY).
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Rocker Arm
Assembly > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2197
Rocker Arm Assembly: Specifications
This article has been updated with bulletin No.: 02-06-01-034.
Vehicles with 3.1L or 3.4L Engine (VINs M, J, E - RPOs L82, LG8, LA1).
REVISED ROCKER ARM BOLT FASTENER TIGHTENING SPECIFICATION
Rocker arm bolt
......................................................................................................................................................... 14
Nm (124 in. lb.) plus 30 degrees.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Rocker Arm
Assembly > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2198
Rocker Arm Assembly: Service and Repair
TOOL REQUIRED
^ J 36660 Torque Angle Meter
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the valve rocker covers.
CAUTION: Keep the components separated so they may be installed in the same location.
3. Remove the rocker arm bolts. 4. Remove the rocker arm pivot balls. 5. Remove the rocker arms.
CAUTION: Keep the pushrods in order so that they can be installed in the original position.
6. Remove the pushrods.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the pushrods in their original location.
^ Coat the ends of the pushrods with prelude. Use GM P/N 1052356 or its equivalent.
^ The intake pushrods are marked with yellow stripes and are 5 3/4 inches long.
^ Exhaust pushrods are marked with green stripes and are 6 inches long.
^ Ensure that the pushrods seat in the liner.
2. Install the rocker arms. 3. Install the rocker arm pivot balls.
Coat the bearing surfaces of the rocker arms and the pivot balls with prelude. Use GM P/N
1052356 or its equivalent.
4. Install the rocker arm bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 14 Nm (124 in. lbs.). Use the Torque Angle Meter in order to tighten the bolts
an additional 30 degrees.
5. Install the valve rocker covers. 6. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod
Bearing > Component Information > Specifications
Connecting Rod Bearing: Specifications
Diameter
Inside Bearing
.......................................................................................................................................................
50.812-50.850 mm (2.000-2.002 inch)
Clearance
Bearing ................................................................................................................................................
................ 0.018-0.062 mm (0.00071-0.0024 inch) Side .....................................................................
...................................................................................................... 0.18-0.44 mm (0.0071-0.0173
inch)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod
Bearing > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2203
Connecting Rod Bearing: Testing and Inspection
A damaged or worn connecting rod bearing will produce knock under all speeds. During the early
stages of wear, connecting rod noise may be confused with piston slap or loose wrist pins.
Connecting rod knock noise increases in volume with engine speed and is at its loudest on
deceleration. The following are causes of connecting rod bearing noise:
^ Excessive bearing clearance
^ Worn crankshaft connecting rod journal
^ Thin, diluted or dirty oil and/or filter
^ Low oil pressure
^ Crankshaft connecting rod journals out-of-round
^ Misaligned connecting rod
^ Connecting rod bolts not properly torqued
^ The wrong bearing inserts or misaligned bearing half.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod,
Engine > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Piston Pin Removal/Installation Revision
Connecting Rod: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Piston Pin Removal/Installation Revision
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 01-06-01-002A
Date: December, 2002
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Revised Piston Pin Removal/Installation Procedures
Models: 1994-96 Buick Regal 1994-98 Buick Skylark 1994-99 Buick Century 1994-96 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica 1994-99 Chevrolet Lumina 1995-99 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1997-99 Chevrolet
Malibu 1994-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Cierra 1994-97 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 1994-98
Oldsmobile Achieva 1997-99 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1994-98 Pontiac Grand Am 1994-99 Pontiac
Grand Prix with 3.1L Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
This bulletin is being revised to update the models information. Please discard Corporate Number
01-06-01-002 (Section 06-Engines).
This bulletin is being issued to revise the piston and rod assembly removal/installation procedures
in the Engine Section of the Service Manual.
Revised Service Procedure
The following steps are provided to assist in the replacement of the piston assemblies.
Tools Required
^ J 24086 Connecting Rod Press
^ J 24086-C Piston Pin Remover/Installer
^ Connecting Rod Oven (Rod kiln)
Piston and connecting Rod Disassemble
Important:
Prior to piston/connecting rod removal, mark or identify the piston/connecting rod assembly, and its
orientation to the front of the engine, before removal.
1. Remove the pistons from the engine following the instructions found in the Engine Repair
Section of the Service Manual.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod,
Engine > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Piston Pin Removal/Installation Revision > Page
2208
Notice:
A rod kiln MUST be used during assembly of the connecting rod to the piston. If a connecting rod
kiln is not available, seek the assistance of a reputable machine shop with a kiln. Under NO
circumstances should an acetylene torch or other uncontrolled heating device be used on
connecting rods, as permanent damage to the connecting rod may result.
Important:
It is not necessary to replace the piston rings, unless they were damaged during the repair process.
If the piston rings are to be reused, mark or identify the location/order of the rings as they
correspond to location on the piston being serviced. Refer to ring gap placement instructions found
in the Engine Repair Section of the Service Manual.
2. Using piston ring pliers, remove the piston rings from the piston.
3. Install the J 24086-310 fork insert into the J 24086-10 fixture support assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod,
Engine > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Piston Pin Removal/Installation Revision > Page
2209
4. Install the piston and connecting rod assembly onto the J 24086-10.
5. Install the J 24086-107 adapter onto the piston pin, and install the J 24086-88A through the J
24086-10 and onto the J 24086-107.
Important:
The piston and pin are a matched set and are not to be serviced separately
6. Press the piston pin from the piston and connecting rod assembly.
Piston and Connecting Rod Assembly
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod,
Engine > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Piston Pin Removal/Installation Revision > Page
2210
1. Install the J 24086-310 fork insert into the J 24086-10 fixture support assembly.
2. Adjust the J 24086-9 installation pin to the following setting: G-7.
Caution:
Avoid contact with HOT components. Wear safety glasses and protective heat gloves to avoid
personal injury!
Notice:
Applying excessive heat to the connecting rod may damage or distort the connecting rod or piston.
Connecting rod temperatures should not exceed 320°C (612°F).
3. Using a connecting rod kiln heat the piston pin end of the connecting rod to 320°C (612°F).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod,
Engine > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Piston Pin Removal/Installation Revision > Page
2211
4. Refer to the above illustration. Assemble the piston, the connecting rod, and the J 24086-6A
adapter as shown. Insert the piston and connecting rod assembly into the J 24086-10 fixture
support assembly.
Notice:
After the J 24086-9 installation pin bottoms on the J 24086-10 fixture support assembly, do not
exceed a pressure of 35,000 kPa (5,000 psi), or damage to the connecting rod press may result.
5. Refer to the above illustration. Install the J 24086-105 (2) onto the piston pin. Position the J
24086-9 (1) though the J 24086-10 fixture support assembly and onto the J 24086-105 (2).
6. Press the J 24086-9 (1) installation pin until it bottoms on the J 24086-10 fixture support
assembly.
7. Reinstall the piston rings onto the new piston. Refer to the Engine Repair Section of the Service
Manual for proper ring gap positioning.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod,
Engine > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Piston Pin Removal/Installation Revision > Page
2212
8. Refer to the above illustration. Install the assembled piston and rod assembly into the engine.
Verify that the directional arrows on the top of the piston point to the front of the engine.
9. Follow the remaining engine assembly instructions found in the Engine Mechanical Section of
the Service Manual.
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod,
Engine > Component Information > Specifications > Connecting Rod Dimensions
Connecting Rod: Specifications Connecting Rod Dimensions
Bore Diameter
........................................................................................................................................................
53.962-53.984 mm (2.124-2.125 inches) Rod Side Clearance
........................................................................................................................................................
0.18-0.44 mm (0.007-0.017 inches)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod,
Engine > Component Information > Specifications > Connecting Rod Dimensions > Page 2215
Connecting Rod: Specifications Connecting Rod Nut
Connecting Rod Cap Nut
......................................................................................................................................................... 20
Nm +75° (15 ft. lbs.)+75°
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod,
Engine > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2216
Connecting Rod: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
Connecting rods are made of forged steel. Full pressure lubrication is directed to the connecting
rods by drilled oil passages from the adjacent main bearing journal.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod,
Engine > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2217
Connecting Rod: Testing and Inspection
1. Inspect the connecting rod for bending or twisting. 2. Install the connecting rod cap. Place the
connecting rod assembly on a checking fixture and check if it is bent or twisted. 3. Replace the
connecting rod if it is bent or twisted. Do not attempt to straighten it. Check the new connecting
rods before using them. 4. Inspect the outside of the connecting rod bearing and the I.D. of the
connecting rod lower end for wear, indicating high spots in the connecting rod
lower end.
5. Inspect the connecting rod bolts for stretching by comparing them with a new bolt. 6. Inspect the
upper end for scoring.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft
Gear/Sprocket > Component Information > Specifications > Crankshaft Gear/Hub Torque Specifications
Crankshaft Gear/Sprocket: Specifications Crankshaft Gear/Hub Torque Specifications
Balancer Bolt .......................................................................................................................................
.................................................... 103 Nm (76 ft lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft
Gear/Sprocket > Component Information > Specifications > Crankshaft Gear/Hub Torque Specifications > Page 2222
Crankshaft Gear/Sprocket: Specifications Crankshaft Pully/Hub Torque Specification
Crankshaft Balancer Bolt .....................................................................................................................
................................................... 103 Nm (76 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Main
Bearing > Component Information > Specifications > Main Bearing Bore
Crankshaft Main Bearing: Specifications Main Bearing Bore
Bore Diameter
.......................................................................................................................................................
72.155-72.168 mm (2.8407-2.8412 inch)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Main
Bearing > Component Information > Specifications > Main Bearing Bore > Page 2227
Crankshaft Main Bearing: Specifications Torque Specifications
Main Bearing Cap Bolts .......................................................................................................................
.......................................... 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.) + 77°
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Main
Bearing > Component Information > Specifications > Main Bearing Bore > Page 2228
Crankshaft Main Bearing: Specifications Main Bearing Dimensions
Thrust Bearing Clearance
............................................................................................................................................
0.032-0.77 mm (0.0012-0.0030 inch)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Main
Bearing > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2229
Crankshaft Main Bearing: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
Four main bearings support the crankshaft which is retained by bearing caps that are machined
with the block for proper alignment and clearances. The main bearing caps are also drilled and
tapped for the structural oil pan side bolts.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Main
Bearing > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Main Bearing Noise
Crankshaft Main Bearing: Testing and Inspection Main Bearing Noise
1. Damaged or worn main bearing noise is revealed by dull thuds or knocks which happen on every
engine revolution. This noise is loudest when the
engine is under heavy load.
2. Excessive crankshaft end play is indicated by an intermittent rap or knock sharper than a worn
main bearing. 3. The following-are causes of main bearing noise:
^ Low oil pump pressure
^ Thin, diluted or dirty oil and/or filter
^ Excessive main bearing clearance
^ Excessive crankshaft end play
^ Out-of-round crankshaft journals
^ Excessive belt tension
^ Loose crankshaft pulley
^ Loose flywheel or torque converter
^ Loose main bearing cap
^ Belt pilling
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Main
Bearing > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Main Bearing Noise > Page 2232
Crankshaft Main Bearing: Testing and Inspection Selection
NOTE: The engine bearings are of the precision insert type. The bearings are available for service
use in standard and various undersizes.
CAUTION: Do not scrape, shim, or file bearing inserts. If the bearing surface of the insert is
touched with bare fingers, the skin oil and acids will etch the bearing surface.
1. Inspect the bearing surfaces for the following conditions:
^ Wear.
^ Gouges.
^ Embedded foreign material. If you find foreign material, determine its nature and source. Inspect
the oil pan sludge and residue.
^ Uneven side-to-side wear. If you find uneven wear, check for a bent crankshaft or tapered
bearing journals.
2. Inspect the outer surfaces for the following conditions:
^ Wear. Surface wear indicates either movement of the insert or high spots in the surrounding
material (spot wear).
^ Overheating or discoloration
^ Looseness or rotation indicated by flattened tangs and wear grooves
3. Inspect the thrust surfaces of the main thrust bearing for the following conditions:
^ Wear
^ Grooving (Grooves are caused by irregularities of the crankshaft thrust surface.)
CAUTION: If bearing failure is due to other than normal wear, investigate bearing failure carefully.
Inspect the crankshaft or connecting rod and the bearing bores carefully.
4. Inspect the connecting rods or main bearing bores using the following procedure:
a. Tighten the bearing cap to specifications. b. Measure the bore for taper and out of round. c. No
taper or out of round should exist.
5. Measure the bearing clearance accurately in order to determine the correct replacement insert
size. There are two methods to measure bearing
clearance. Method A gives more reliable results and is preferred.
NOTE: Method A yields measurement from which the bearing clearance can be computed. Method
B yields the bearing clearance directly. Method B does not give any indication of bearing run-out.
Do not mix inserts of different nominal size in the same bearing bore.
6. Choose a method of bearing clearance measurement.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Main
Bearing > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Main Bearing Noise > Page 2233
Crankshaft Main Bearing: Testing and Inspection Measure Bearing Clearance
METHOD A
In order to measure bearing clearance using Method A, use the following procedure: 1. Measure
the journal diameter with a micrometer in several places, approximately 90° apart. Average the
measurements. 2. Measure the taper and runout. 3. Install the bearing inserts. Tighten the bearing
cap bolts or nuts to specification.
CAUTION: The bearing cap must be tightened to specification when the measurement is taken.
Measure the connecting rod ID in the same direction as the length of the rod.
4. Measure the ID with an inside micrometer. 5. Select a set of bearing inserts that will produce the
desired clearance. 6. If the specified clearances cannot be met, the crankshaft journal must be
reconditioned. Install undersized bearing inserts. Replace both bearing
shells as a set.
METHOD B
In order to measure bearing clearance using Method B. use the following procedure: 1. Clean the
used bearing inserts. 2. Install the used bearing inserts. 3. Place a piece of gaging plastic across
the entire bearing width.
CAUTION: In order to prevent the possibility of cylinder block or crankshaft bearing cap damage,
the crankshaft bearing caps are tapped into the cylinder block cavity using a brass, lead, or a
leather mallet before the attaching bolts are installed. Do not attach the bolts to pull the crankshaft
bearing caps into the seats. Failure to observe this information may damage a cylinder block or a
bearing cap.
4. Seat the bearing cap carefully by lightly tapping the bearing cap with a suitable tool. 5. Install the
bearing cap bolts or nuts.
^ Tighten the main bearing cap bolts evenly to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
^ Turn the main bearing cap bolts evenly an additional 77°. Use the Torque Angle Meter.
^ Tighten the rod cap nuts evenly to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.).
^ Turn the rod cap nuts evenly an additional 75°. Use the Torque Angle Meter.
CAUTION: Do not rotate the crankshaft.
6. Remove the bearing cap, leaving the gaging plastic in place. It does not matter whether the
gaging plastic adheres to the journal or to the
bearing cap.
7. Measure the gaging plastic at its widest point with the scale printed on the gaging plastic
package. 8. Remove all traces of the gaging plastic after measuring. 9. Select a set of bearing
inserts that will produce the desired clearance. Replace both bearing shells as a set.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications
Crankshaft: Specifications
Main Journal
Diameter
............................................................................................................................................................
67.239-67.257 mm (2.6473-2.6483 inch) Taper (max.) .......................................................................
......................................................................................................... 0.005 mm (0.0002 inch) Out of
Round (max.) .......................................................................................................................................
............................. 0.005 mm (0.0002 inch) End Play .........................................................................
........................................................................................... 0.06-0.21 mm (0.0024-0.0083 inch)
Flange Run-out (max.) .........................................................................................................................
.......................................... 0.04 mm (0.0016 inch)
Crankpin
Diameter
............................................................................................................................................................
50.768-50.784 mm (1.9987-1.9994 inch) Taper (max.) .......................................................................
......................................................................................................... 0.005 mm (0.0002 inch) Out of
Round (max.) .......................................................................................................................................
............................ 0.005 mm (0.0002 inch)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2237
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2238
Crankshaft: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The crankshaft is cast nodular iron with deep rolled fillets on all six crankpins and all four main
journals. Four steel-backed aluminum bearings are used, with the #3 bearing being the end-thrust
bearing.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2239
Crankshaft: Testing and Inspection
1. Clean the crankshaft of the following elements:
^ Oil
^ Sludge
^ Carbon
2. Probe the oil passages for obstructions. 3. Inspect the keyway for nicks or wear. 4. Inspect the
threads.
CAUTION: If cracks, severe gouges or burned spots are found, the crankshaft must be replaced.
Slight roughness may be removed with a fine polishing cloth soaked in clean engine oil. Burrs may
be removed with a fine oil stone.
5. Inspect the bearing journals and thrust surfaces for the following conditions:
^ Cracks
^ Chips
^ Gouges
^ Roughness
^ Grooves
^ Overheating (discoloration)
6. Inspect the corresponding bearing inserts for embedded foreign material and determine its
source.
CAUTION: Note the location of main bearing high spots. If they are not in line, the crankshaft is
bent and must be replaced.
7. Measure the crankshaft journals. Use a micrometer in order to measure taper and out-of-round.
If the readings are within specifications, note the
results for later selection of bearing inserts. If the crankshaft journal are not within limits, replace
the crankshaft.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Engine Block Heater >
Component Information > Specifications > Electrical Specifications
Engine Block Heater: Electrical Specifications
Volts AC ...............................................................................................................................................
.............................................................................120
Watts ...................................................................................................................................................
...............................................................................400
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Engine Block Heater >
Component Information > Specifications > Electrical Specifications > Page 2244
Engine Block Heater: Mechanical Specifications
Engine Coolant Heater to Coolant Pump - 2.4L
............................................................................................................................................15 N.m (11
lb ft) Engine Coolant Heater to Engine Block - 3.1L
..............................................................................................................................................2 N.m (18
lb in) Transaxle Brace to Engine Block - 3.1L
.......................................................................................................................................................54
N.m (40 lb ft) Transaxle Brace to Transaxle - 3.1L ..............................................................................
...............................................................................54 N.m (40 lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Engine Block Heater >
Component Information > Service Precautions > Technician Safety Information
Engine Block Heater: Technician Safety Information
CAUTION:
^ This vehicle is equipped with Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR). Refer to Service
Precautions / Air Bags (Supplemental Restraint Systems) before performing service on or around
SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment,
personal injury, or otherwise unneeded SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Engine Block Heater >
Component Information > Service Precautions > Technician Safety Information > Page 2247
Engine Block Heater: Vehicle Damage Warnings
NOTE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for the application. General Motors will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. General Motors will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and the joint clamping
force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening
sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and
systems.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Engine Block Heater >
Component Information > Service Precautions > Page 2248
Engine Block Heater: Application and ID
Volts AC ...............................................................................................................................................
.............................................................................120
Watts ...................................................................................................................................................
...............................................................................400
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Engine Block Heater >
Component Information > Service Precautions > Page 2249
Engine Block Heater: Description and Operation
The optional engine coolant heater is used to preheat engine coolant for cold weather starting. The
heating element is installed into the water jacket of the engine block for the 3.1L, or in the coolant
pump housing for the 2.4L.
The unit has a detachable electrical cord. If the heater fails to operate, check cord, connections,
and power supply before replacing the heating element.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Engine Block Heater >
Component Information > Service Precautions > Page 2250
Engine Block Heater: Testing and Inspection
If the engine coolant heater fails to heat the coolant, check all electrical connections before
proceeding.
^ Check for 110 volt AC external power source.
^ Check continuity and shorts to ground of engine block heater cord. Replace cord as required.
^ The heating element should indicate continuity with an ohmmeter.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Engine Block Heater >
Component Information > Service Precautions > Page 2251
Engine Block Heater: Service and Repair
Engine Coolant Heater
Engine Coolant Heater Cord
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Engine Block Heater >
Component Information > Service Precautions > Page 2252
Engine Coolant Heater Cord Storage
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Drain coolant. 2. Raise vehicle. 3. Right splash shield. 4. Transaxle brace. 5. Electrical cord from
engine coolant heater. 6. Engine coolant heater.
If not originally equipped with an engine coolant heater: ^
Carefully tap the coolant jacket plug near its outer edge, causing it to rotate out of the hole.
Important ^
Do not score the machined surface of the hole. Grasp coolant jacket plug with pliers and pull to
remove.
^ Remove burrs or rough surfaces.
Clean ^
Coolant jacket opening.
Engine Coolant Heater
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Engine coolant heater.
Tighten
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Engine Block Heater >
Component Information > Service Precautions > Page 2253
^ Bolt to 2 N.m (18 lb in).
2. Heater cord to the engine coolant heater.
Important ^
Cord must not contact hot surfaces or any moving parts.
3. Transaxle brace.
Tighten ^
Bolts to engine block 54 N.m (40 lb ft).
^ Bolts to transaxle 54 N.m (40 lb ft).
4. Right splash shield. 5. Lower vehicle. 6. Fill coolant system.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Front Engine Plate >
Component Information > Specifications
Front Engine Plate: Specifications
Large Bolt ............................................................................................................................................
..................................................... 47 Nm (35 ft. lbs.) Small Bolt .........................................................
........................................................................................................................................ 21 Nm (15 ft.
lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Front Engine Plate >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2257
Front Engine Plate: Testing and Inspection
1. Clean the mating surfaces on the engine front cover. 2. Inspect the water pump shaft for
looseness. 3. Inspect the water pump vanes for damage. 4. Inspect the front cover oil seal for
damage. 5. Inspect the front cover for cracks or nicks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Front Engine Plate >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Overhaul
Front Engine Plate: Service and Repair Overhaul
TOOL REQUIRED
^ J 35468 Oil Seal Installer
DISASSEMBLE
1. Remove the water pump pulley bolts.
2. Remove the water pump pulley.
3. Remove the water pump bolts. 4. Remove the water pump. 5. Remove the water pump gasket.
6. Remove the crankshaft position sensor screws. 7. Remove the crankshaft position sensor.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Front Engine Plate >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Overhaul > Page 2260
8. Using a suitable tool, pry out the front cover oil seal.
ASSEMBLE
1. Install the front cover oil seal using the Oil Seal Installer. 2. Install the crankshaft position sensor.
3. Install the crankshaft position sensor screws. Tighten the crankshaft position sensor screws to
10 Nm (89 inch lbs.). 4. Install the water pump gasket. 5. Install the water pump. 6. Install the water
pump bolts. Tighten the water pump bolts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.). 7. Install the water pump pulley.
8. Install the water pump pulley bolts. Tighten the water pump pulley bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Front Engine Plate >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Overhaul > Page 2261
Front Engine Plate: Service and Repair Replacement
TOOL REQUIRED
^ J 28467-360 Engine Support Fixture
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Drain the cooling system. See Cooling System. 3.
Install the Engine Support Fixture. 4. Remove the engine mount assembly.
5. Remove the engine mount bracket support. 6. Remove the drive belt. 7. Remove the power
steering pump. See Steering and Suspension. 8. Loosen the top two A/C compressor bolts. 9.
Raise the vehicle. Support the vehicle.
10. Remove the right front tire and wheel assembly. 11. Remove the right front splash shield. See
Body and Frame. 12. Remove the flywheel inspection cover. 13. Remove the crankshaft balancer.
14. Remove the drive belt tensioner. 15. Remove the right wheel speed sensor connector and the
wire harness from the suspension support. 16. Remove the right ball joint. See Steering and
Suspension. 17. Remove the right stabilizer shaft from the right suspension support and the right
control arm. 18. Remove the right suspension support. See Steering and Suspension.
19. Remove the A/C compressor to oil pan bolts.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Front Engine Plate >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Overhaul > Page 2262
20. Remove the oil filter. 21. Remove the oil filter adapter. 22. Remove the engine to transmission
brace. See Transmission and Drivetrain. 23. Drain the engine oil. 24. Remove the starter motor.
See Starting and Charging. 25. Remove the oil pan.
26. Remove the crankshaft sensor. 27. Remove the lower front cover bolts. 28. Lower the vehicle.
29. Remove the coolant bypass to the coolant pump and the manifold. See Cooling System. 30.
Remove the radiator hose to the coolant outlet housing.
31. Remove the front cover bolts. 32. Remove the front cover. 33. Remove the front cover oil seal.
34. Clean the mating surfaces of the following items:
a. The front cover b. The oil pan
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Front Engine Plate >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Overhaul > Page 2263
c. The cylinder block
35. Clean the sealing surfaces with degreaser.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the front cover gasket. Do not damage the sealing surfaces. 2. Apply sealer to both sides
of the lower tabs of the front cover gasket. Use GM RTV sealer GM P/N 1052080 or its equivalent.
3. Install the front cover oil seal. 4. Place the front cover on the engine. 5. Install the upper two front
cover bolts. Tighten the bolts to 21 Nm (15 ft. lbs.). 6. Install the radiator hose to the coolant
housing. 7. Install the coolant by pass pipe to the coolant pump and the manifold. See Cooling
System. 8. Raise the vehicle. Support the vehicle. 9. Install the lower front cover bolts.
^ Tighten the small bolts (1) to 21 Nm (15 ft. lbs.).
^ Tighten the large bolts (2) to 47 Nm (35 ft. lbs.).
10. Install the crankshaft sensor. 11. Install the oil pan. 12. Install the starter motor. See Starting
and Charging. 13. Install the engine to transmission brace. See Transmission and Drivetrain. 14.
Install the oil filter adapter. 15. Install the oil filter. 16. Install the A/C compressor to the oil pan
bolts. 17. Install the right suspension support. See Steering and Suspension. 18. Install the
stabilizer shaft to the right suspension support and the control arm. 19. Install the right ball joint.
See Steering and Suspension. 20. Install the right wheel speed sensor connector and the wire
harness to the suspension support. 21. Install the drive belt tensioner. 22. Install the crankshaft
balancer. 23. Install the flywheel inspection cover. 24. Install the right splash shield. See Body and
Frame. 25. Install the right front tire and wheel assembly. 27. Install the A/C compressor top bolts.
28. Install the power steering pump. See Steering and Suspension. 29. Install the drive belt. 30.
Install the engine mount bracket support and bolts.
^ Tighten the 8 mm bolts to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.).
^ Tighten the 12 mm bolts to 40 Nm (30 ft. lbs.).
31. Install the engine mount assembly. 32. Remove the engine support fixture. 33. Fill the cooling
system. See Cooling System. 34. Fill the oil. 35. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Harmonic Balancer Crankshaft Pulley > Component Information > Specifications
Harmonic Balancer - Crankshaft Pulley: Specifications
Balancer Bolt .......................................................................................................................................
.................................................... 103 Nm (76 ft lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Harmonic Balancer Crankshaft Pulley > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2267
Harmonic Balancer - Crankshaft Pulley: Service and Repair
TOOL REQUIRED
^ J 24420-B Crankshaft Balancer Remover
^ J 29113 Crankshaft Balancer Installer
CAUTION: The inertial weight section of the balancer is assembled to the hub with a rubber type
material. The correct removal procedure must be followed or movement of the inertial weight
section of the hub will destroy the tuning of the balancer.
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the drive belt. 3. Raise the vehicle. Support
the vehicle. 4. Remove the right front tire and wheel assembly. 5. Remove the right splash shield.
See Body and Frame. 6. Remove the transmission converter cover.
7. Remove the balancer retaining bolt. Have an assistant keep the flywheel from turning. 8. Install
the Crankshaft Balancer Remover on the balancer. 9. Turn the puller screw.
10. Remove the balancer.
INSTALLATION
1. Coat the front cover seal contact area with engine oil. 2. Apply sealant to the crankshaft key.
Apply sealant to the crankshaft keyway. Use GM RTV sealant P/N 1052917 or its equivalent. 3.
Place the balancer into position over the key in the crankshaft. 4. Install the Crankshaft Balancer
Installer onto the crankshaft. 5.Pull the balancer into position. 6. Remove the Crankshaft Balancer
Installer from the balancer. 7. Install the balancer retaining bolt. Have an assistant keep the
flywheel from turning. Tighten the bolt to 103 Nm (76 ft. lbs.). 8. Install the transmission converter
cover. 9. Install the right splash shield. See Body and Frame.
10. Install the right tire and wheel assembly. 11. Lower the vehicle. 12. Install the drive belt. 13.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 57-61-24A > Jun > 98 > Engine - Tick or Rattle
After Start-Up
Piston: Customer Interest Engine - Tick or Rattle After Start-Up
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 57-61-24A
Date: June, 1998
Subject: Cold Engine Tick or Rattle After Start-up (Replace Piston/Pin Assembly)
Models: 1994-95 Buick Regal 1994-97 Buick Skylark 1994-98 Buick Century 1994-95 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica, Lumina, Monte Carlo 1996-98 Chevrolet Venture 1997-98 Chevrolet Malibu
1993-97 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 1994-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1994-97 Oldsmobile
Achieva 1996-98 Oldsmobile Silhouette 1997-98 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1994-98 Pontiac Grand Am,
Grand Prix 1996-98 Pontiac Trans Sport with 3100, 3400 V6 Engine (VINs M, E - RPOs L82, LA1)
This bulletin is being revised to expand the model year coverage, add the 3400 V6 Engine
applications and arts information. Also, the Cause statement has been changed. Please discard
Corporate Service Bulletin 57-61-24 (Section 6 - Engine).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a ticking type noise that begins shortly after cold engine
start-up and gradually diminishes as the engine warms up. In most cases, the noise is gone after
five (5) minutes. In severe cases, the noise may not disappear when the engine is hot.
Cause
Under normal design tolerances when the piston pin bore is produced at the maximum tolerance
and the piston pin is produced at the minimum tolerance (min-max tolerance) trace noise levels can
occur. This level of noise does not affect the reliability or durability of the product.
Correction
If piston-to-pin noise is detected and the customer desires the condition to be corrected, replace all
six pistons with pin assemblies. The new piston sets have a minimal piston-to-pin clearance.
Remember, piston-to-pin noise occurs in both park and drive at engine idle rpm and it varies in
intensity depending on the number of pistons involved. A ticking sound means one piston is
affected whereas a rattle or diesel type sound indicates more than one piston affected. The
following should also be checked:
1. On W-Cars, make sure the right side engine splash shield is not contacting the engine
crankshaft balancer. This condition usually happens cold and is caused by the shield curling when
cold.
2. Reference Service Bulletin 57-71-06 for transmission rattle noise often confused for engine rattle
noise.
3. Reference Service Bulletin 47-61-36 for Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner noise.
4. Check cylinder bore diameter and piston diameter as outlined in the Service Manual.
Important:
Excessive cylinder bore to piston diameter clearance can cause a similar type noise.
Use the procedure in the appropriate Service Manual for piston replacement.
Notice:
When installing the new piston and pin assembly onto the existing rods, use extreme care to avoid
damage to either the pin or piston bore. If damage to these areas occurs, the noise will return
because the damage will cause wear and excessive clearance.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 57-61-24A > Jun > 98 > Engine - Tick or Rattle
After Start-Up > Page 2276
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
J1307 Piston, Rod Use published labor
and/or Rings operation time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 01-06-01-010B > Feb > 03 >
Engine - Polymer Coated Service Pistons
Piston: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Polymer Coated Service Pistons
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 01-06-01-010B
Date: February, 2003
INFORMATION
Subject: Polymer Service Pistons
Models: 1996 Buick Regal 1996-98 Buick Skylark 1996-99 Buick Century 1996 Chevrolet Beretta,
Corsica 1996-99 Chevrolet Lumina, Monte Carlo 1997-99 Chevrolet Malibu 1996-98 Oldsmobile
Achieva 1997-99 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1996-98 Pontiac Grand Am 1996-99 Pontiac Grand Prix with
3.1 L Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
This bulletin is being revised to clarify the models and parts information. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 01-06-01-O1OA (Section 06 - Engine).
A service piston with a polymer coated piston skirt is available for the above engine. Polymer
pistons should be used in these applications any time piston replacement is necessary.
Notice:
Do not install pistons in model years other than listed in the parts table below. Damage to the
piston, cylinder block or cylinder head may occur if the wrong piston is installed.
Refer to Corporate Service Bulletin Number 01-06-01-002 for revised piston pin installation
procedure.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 01-06-01-002A > Dec > 02 >
Engine - Piston Pin Removal/Installation Revision
Piston: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Piston Pin Removal/Installation Revision
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 01-06-01-002A
Date: December, 2002
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Revised Piston Pin Removal/Installation Procedures
Models: 1994-96 Buick Regal 1994-98 Buick Skylark 1994-99 Buick Century 1994-96 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica 1994-99 Chevrolet Lumina 1995-99 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1997-99 Chevrolet
Malibu 1994-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Cierra 1994-97 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 1994-98
Oldsmobile Achieva 1997-99 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1994-98 Pontiac Grand Am 1994-99 Pontiac
Grand Prix with 3.1L Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
This bulletin is being revised to update the models information. Please discard Corporate Number
01-06-01-002 (Section 06-Engines).
This bulletin is being issued to revise the piston and rod assembly removal/installation procedures
in the Engine Section of the Service Manual.
Revised Service Procedure
The following steps are provided to assist in the replacement of the piston assemblies.
Tools Required
^ J 24086 Connecting Rod Press
^ J 24086-C Piston Pin Remover/Installer
^ Connecting Rod Oven (Rod kiln)
Piston and connecting Rod Disassemble
Important:
Prior to piston/connecting rod removal, mark or identify the piston/connecting rod assembly, and its
orientation to the front of the engine, before removal.
1. Remove the pistons from the engine following the instructions found in the Engine Repair
Section of the Service Manual.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 01-06-01-002A > Dec > 02 >
Engine - Piston Pin Removal/Installation Revision > Page 2286
Notice:
A rod kiln MUST be used during assembly of the connecting rod to the piston. If a connecting rod
kiln is not available, seek the assistance of a reputable machine shop with a kiln. Under NO
circumstances should an acetylene torch or other uncontrolled heating device be used on
connecting rods, as permanent damage to the connecting rod may result.
Important:
It is not necessary to replace the piston rings, unless they were damaged during the repair process.
If the piston rings are to be reused, mark or identify the location/order of the rings as they
correspond to location on the piston being serviced. Refer to ring gap placement instructions found
in the Engine Repair Section of the Service Manual.
2. Using piston ring pliers, remove the piston rings from the piston.
3. Install the J 24086-310 fork insert into the J 24086-10 fixture support assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 01-06-01-002A > Dec > 02 >
Engine - Piston Pin Removal/Installation Revision > Page 2287
4. Install the piston and connecting rod assembly onto the J 24086-10.
5. Install the J 24086-107 adapter onto the piston pin, and install the J 24086-88A through the J
24086-10 and onto the J 24086-107.
Important:
The piston and pin are a matched set and are not to be serviced separately
6. Press the piston pin from the piston and connecting rod assembly.
Piston and Connecting Rod Assembly
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 01-06-01-002A > Dec > 02 >
Engine - Piston Pin Removal/Installation Revision > Page 2288
1. Install the J 24086-310 fork insert into the J 24086-10 fixture support assembly.
2. Adjust the J 24086-9 installation pin to the following setting: G-7.
Caution:
Avoid contact with HOT components. Wear safety glasses and protective heat gloves to avoid
personal injury!
Notice:
Applying excessive heat to the connecting rod may damage or distort the connecting rod or piston.
Connecting rod temperatures should not exceed 320°C (612°F).
3. Using a connecting rod kiln heat the piston pin end of the connecting rod to 320°C (612°F).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 01-06-01-002A > Dec > 02 >
Engine - Piston Pin Removal/Installation Revision > Page 2289
4. Refer to the above illustration. Assemble the piston, the connecting rod, and the J 24086-6A
adapter as shown. Insert the piston and connecting rod assembly into the J 24086-10 fixture
support assembly.
Notice:
After the J 24086-9 installation pin bottoms on the J 24086-10 fixture support assembly, do not
exceed a pressure of 35,000 kPa (5,000 psi), or damage to the connecting rod press may result.
5. Refer to the above illustration. Install the J 24086-105 (2) onto the piston pin. Position the J
24086-9 (1) though the J 24086-10 fixture support assembly and onto the J 24086-105 (2).
6. Press the J 24086-9 (1) installation pin until it bottoms on the J 24086-10 fixture support
assembly.
7. Reinstall the piston rings onto the new piston. Refer to the Engine Repair Section of the Service
Manual for proper ring gap positioning.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 01-06-01-002A > Dec > 02 >
Engine - Piston Pin Removal/Installation Revision > Page 2290
8. Refer to the above illustration. Install the assembled piston and rod assembly into the engine.
Verify that the directional arrows on the top of the piston point to the front of the engine.
9. Follow the remaining engine assembly instructions found in the Engine Mechanical Section of
the Service Manual.
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 57-61-24A > Jun > 98 > Engine Tick or Rattle After Start-Up
Piston: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Tick or Rattle After Start-Up
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 57-61-24A
Date: June, 1998
Subject: Cold Engine Tick or Rattle After Start-up (Replace Piston/Pin Assembly)
Models: 1994-95 Buick Regal 1994-97 Buick Skylark 1994-98 Buick Century 1994-95 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica, Lumina, Monte Carlo 1996-98 Chevrolet Venture 1997-98 Chevrolet Malibu
1993-97 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 1994-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1994-97 Oldsmobile
Achieva 1996-98 Oldsmobile Silhouette 1997-98 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1994-98 Pontiac Grand Am,
Grand Prix 1996-98 Pontiac Trans Sport with 3100, 3400 V6 Engine (VINs M, E - RPOs L82, LA1)
This bulletin is being revised to expand the model year coverage, add the 3400 V6 Engine
applications and arts information. Also, the Cause statement has been changed. Please discard
Corporate Service Bulletin 57-61-24 (Section 6 - Engine).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a ticking type noise that begins shortly after cold engine
start-up and gradually diminishes as the engine warms up. In most cases, the noise is gone after
five (5) minutes. In severe cases, the noise may not disappear when the engine is hot.
Cause
Under normal design tolerances when the piston pin bore is produced at the maximum tolerance
and the piston pin is produced at the minimum tolerance (min-max tolerance) trace noise levels can
occur. This level of noise does not affect the reliability or durability of the product.
Correction
If piston-to-pin noise is detected and the customer desires the condition to be corrected, replace all
six pistons with pin assemblies. The new piston sets have a minimal piston-to-pin clearance.
Remember, piston-to-pin noise occurs in both park and drive at engine idle rpm and it varies in
intensity depending on the number of pistons involved. A ticking sound means one piston is
affected whereas a rattle or diesel type sound indicates more than one piston affected. The
following should also be checked:
1. On W-Cars, make sure the right side engine splash shield is not contacting the engine
crankshaft balancer. This condition usually happens cold and is caused by the shield curling when
cold.
2. Reference Service Bulletin 57-71-06 for transmission rattle noise often confused for engine rattle
noise.
3. Reference Service Bulletin 47-61-36 for Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner noise.
4. Check cylinder bore diameter and piston diameter as outlined in the Service Manual.
Important:
Excessive cylinder bore to piston diameter clearance can cause a similar type noise.
Use the procedure in the appropriate Service Manual for piston replacement.
Notice:
When installing the new piston and pin assembly onto the existing rods, use extreme care to avoid
damage to either the pin or piston bore. If damage to these areas occurs, the noise will return
because the damage will cause wear and excessive clearance.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 57-61-24A > Jun > 98 > Engine Tick or Rattle After Start-Up > Page 2295
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
J1307 Piston, Rod Use published labor
and/or Rings operation time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Piston: > 73-81-52 > Nov > 97 >
Lights - Park Lamps Stay ON With Headlamp Switch OFF
Combination Switch: All Technical Service Bulletins Lights - Park Lamps Stay ON With Headlamp
Switch OFF
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 73-81-52
Date: November, 1997
Subject: Park Lamps Stay On with Headlamp Switch in "OFF" Position (Replace Multifunction
Switch)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
Condition Some owners may comment on one of the following:
1. The radio or cluster illumination dims with actuation of the turn signal lever.
2. The park lamps will not turn off.
3. The park lamps come on by themselves.
4. The battery goes dead.
Cause The park lamp contact may not cross the switch gap, resulting in park lamps remaining on.
Correction To verity this condition, the concern can usually be duplicated by turning the headlamp
switch off very slowly with light pressure. Then, actuate the turn signal for a right turn and the park
lamps may come on.
If the concern can not be duplicated in this manner, a visual check can be done to see if the
contact crosses the gap or stops on or near the gap. Looking at the back of the switch body, follow
the park lamp circuit terminals 31 and 32 down to the switch grid. The park lamp contact can be
seen through the gap between these two sections of the switch grid. If the contact dimple does not
cross the gap but rests in the gap when the switch is turned to the "OFF" position, the described
condition exists. If the condition exists, replace the multifunction switch, P/N 22602262. Refer to
"Multifunction Switch" in the Service Manual.
Parts Information The supplier implemented an improved sorting process in April, 1997 while tool
modifications were being made. The date code is located on the top surface of the switch body lust
above the headlamp connector. The supplier Z code (Z0191) is stamped on the part just above the
date code. The date code begins with a "6" or "7" for the year followed by the Julian date which is
followed by two additional digits indicating tester information. Date codes prior to 7093XX are
suspect.
P/N Description
22602262 Multifunction Switch
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
N2355
Use published labor operation time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2306
Piston: Specifications
Piston
Diameter [1]
....................................................................................................................................................... 12
mm Below Center Line Of Piston Pin Bore
......................................................................................................................................................
88.974-89.001 mm (3.5029-3.5040 inch) Clearance
.........................................................................................................................................................
0.032-0.068 mm (0.0013-0.0027 inch) Pin Bore Clearance
......................................................................................................................................
23.006-23.013 mm (0.9057-0.9060 inch)
[1] Gaged on skirt
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2307
Piston: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The pistons are cast aluminum using two compression rings and one oil control ring. The piston pin
is offset 0.800 mm (0.031 inch) towards the major thrust side. This allows a gradual change in
thrust pressure against the cylinder wall as the piston travels its path. Pins are chromium steel and
have a floating fit in the pistons. They are retained in the connecting rods by a press fit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Abnormal Noise
Piston: Testing and Inspection Abnormal Noise
Piston pin, piston, and connecting rod noise are hard to separate. A loose piston pin, for example,
causes a sharp double knock usually heard when the engine is idling, or during sudden
acceleration then deceleration of the engine. A piston pin that has been improperly fitted will emit a
light ticking noise that is more noticeable with no load on the engine. Excessive piston-to-cylinder
bore clearance will cause piston slap noise. The noise is similar to a metallic knock, as if the piston
were "slapping" the cylinder wall during its stroke. As with most engine noise, understanding the
cause of the noise will help you imagine what the noise sounds like. An indication of piston slap is a
decrease in noise as the engine warms up. When the engine is cold, the piston to bore clearance is
greater and piston slap will be louder. The following are causes of piston noise:
^ Worn or loose piston pin or bushing
^ Improper fit of the pin
^ Excessive piston-to-cylinder bore clearance
^ Lack of lubrication
^ Carbon deposits on top of the piston striking cylinder head
^ Worn or broken piston ring land
^ Broken or cracked piston
^ Misaligned connecting rods
^ Worn or damaged rings
^ Excessive ring land clearance
^ Insufficient ring-end gap clearance
^ Piston 180° out of position
^ Incorrect piston cam grind
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Abnormal Noise > Page 2310
Piston: Testing and Inspection Inspection
1. Clean the sludge and carbon from the following parts:
^ The piston
^ The piston pin
^ The connecting rod
WARNING: Bodily injury may occur if the carburetor cleaning fluid is exposed to the skin or If the
fumes are inhaled.
NOTE: It is essential that the piston ring grooves are cleaned of carbon to the bare metal.
2. Clean the varnish from the piston pin by soaking it in carburetor cleaning solution.
CAUTION: Do not scrape the piston skirt.
3. Inspect the connecting rod for bending or twisting. 4. Install the connecting rod cap. 5. Place the
connecting rod assembly on a checking fixture and check for bending or twisting. 6. Do not attempt
to straighten the connecting rod. The connecting rods should not be bent more than 0.18 mm
(0.007 inches) for every 76.2 mm
(3.00 inches) of rod length. The connecting rods should not be twisted more than 0.038 mm
(0.0015 inches) for every 25.4 mm (1.00 inches) of rod length. Replace it, if it is bent or twisted.
7. Check new connecting rods before using them. 8. Inspect the outside of the connecting rod
bearing and the ID of the connecting rod lower end for wear indicating high spots in the connecting
rod
lower end.
9. Inspect the upper end for scoring.
10. Inspect the piston pin for the following conditions:
^ Scoring
^ Galling caused by improper installation
^ Fit in the connecting rod and piston
11. Inspect the piston for the following conditions:
^ Scoring of the skirt
^ Cracks
^ Broken ring groove lands
^ Wear
CAUTION: When fitting pistons, both the piston and the cylinder bore condition must be considered
together. Production and service pistons have the same nominal weight and can be intermixed
without affecting engine balance. If necessary, used pistons may be fitted selectively to any
cylinder of the engine, providing they are in good condition and the same weight. Do not cut
oversize pistons down or engine balance will be affected. Finish hone when selecting the piston.
12. Measure the piston diameter. When measuring piston for size or taper, measurement must be
made as shown with the piston pin removed. If worn
or damaged, replace with a standard or oversize piston.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Abnormal Noise > Page 2311
13. Measure the cylinder bore, with a telescoping gauge. If worn beyond specifications, rebore and
hone to size. 14. Subtract the piston diameter from the cylinder bore diameter in order to determine
the piston-to-bore clearance. 15. Compare the piston-to-bore clearance with specifications in order
to determine if the clearance is in acceptable range. 16. If a used piston is not acceptable, check
the service piston sizes and determine if a new piston can be selected. Service pistons are
available in
standard, and several oversizes.
17. If the cylinder bore must be reconditioned, measure the new piston diameter then hone the
cylinder bore to the correct clearance. 18. Select the new piston and mark the piston in order to
identify the cylinder for which it was fitted. 19. Measure the piston pin bore diameter with an inside
micrometer. 20. Measure the piston pin diameter with a micrometer. 21. Subtract the piston pin
bore diameter from the piston pin diameter in order to determine the clearance. 22. Compare the
clearance with specifications in order to determine if clearance is in an acceptable range. Replace
the piston assembly if it is not
acceptable.
CAUTION: Do not reuse piston rings. Fit rings in order to match the cylinder they will be used in.
23. Place the piston into the cylinder at the bottom of the ring travel. 24. Place a piston ring on top
of the piston. 25. Back off the piston.
26. Measure the ring gap. If the gap is below specification, increase the gap by carefully filing off
excess material.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to cut the ring groove, although high spots in the ring groove may be
cleaned up by the careful use of a point file.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Abnormal Noise > Page 2312
27. Measure the piston ring side clearance. 28. Roll the piston ring around the groove in which it is
to be installed, and measure the side clearance. If the ring is too thick, try another ring.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Piston & Rod Assembly
Piston: Service and Repair Piston & Rod Assembly
TOOL REQUIRED
^ J 8037 Universal Piston Ring Compressor
^ J 36660 Torque Angle Meter
REMOVAL
1. Depressurize the fuel system. See Fuel Pressure Release Procedure. 2. Disconnect the
negative battery cable. 3. Drain the cooling system. Recover the cooling system. See Cooling
System. 4. Remove the cylinder head. 5. Remove the oil pan. 6. Mark the piston with the number of
the cylinder from which it is being removed. 7. Mark the connecting rod and the rod cap so that
they can be assembled correctly. 8. Turn the crankshaft to bottom dead center. 9. Clean the carbon
from the top end of the cylinder.
10. Remove the connecting rod cap.
INSTALLATION
1. Lubricate the cylinder wall. Lubricate the piston rings. Use clean engine oil. 2. Turn the
crankshaft to bottom dead center. 3. Install the connecting rod stud-thread protector.
CAUTION: Guide the lower connecting rod end carefully to avoid damaging the crankshaft journal.
4. Install the Universal Piston Ring Compressor.
CAUTION: Ensure that the arrow on the top of the piston faces towards the front of the engine.
5. Install the piston and connecting rod assembly. 6. Remove the thread protectors. 7. Install the
connecting rod bearing.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Piston & Rod Assembly > Page 2315
CAUTION: Carefully tap the bearing cap into place with a suitable tool. Do not pull the cap down
with the cap bolts or nuts.
8. Seat the bearing caps. 9. Install the rod bearing cap nuts. Tighten the rod cap nuts to 20 Nm (15
ft. lbs.). Use the Torque Angle Meter in order to tighten the nuts an
additional 75 degrees.
10. Check the connecting rod for binding. Pry the rod back and forth with a suitable tool. Loosen
the bearing cap if the rod binds. Retighten the
bearing cap.
11. Install the oil pan. 12. Install the cylinder head. 13. Fill the cooling system. See Cooling System.
14. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Piston & Rod Assembly > Page 2316
Piston: Service and Repair Piston Pin Removal
This article has been updated with bulletin No.: 01-06-01-002A.
REVISED PISTON PIN REMOVAL/INSTALLATION PROCEDURES
TOOLS REQUIRED:
^ J 24086 Connecting Rod Press
^ J 24086-C Piston Pin Remover/Installer
^ Connecting Rod Oven (Rod kiln)
PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD DISASSEMBLE
IMPORTANT: Prior to piston/connecting rod removal, mark or identify the piston/connecting rod
assembly, and its orientation to the front of the engine, before removal.
1. Remove the pistons from the engine following the instructions found in the Engine Repair
Section of the Service Manual.
NOTICE: A rod kiln MUST be used during assembly of the connecting rod to the piston. If a
connecting rod kiln is not available, seek the assistance of a reputable machine shop with a kiln.
Under NO circumstances should an acetylene torch or other uncontrolled heating device be used
on connecting rods, as permanent damage to the connecting rod may result.
IMPORTANT: It is not necessary to replace the piston rings, unless they were damaged during the
repair process. If the piston rings are to be reused, mark or identify the location/order of the rings
as they correspond to location on the piston being serviced.
2. Using piston ring pliers, remove the piston rings from the piston.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Piston & Rod Assembly > Page 2317
3. Install the J 24086-310 fork insert into the J 24086-10 fixture support assembly.
4. Install the piston and connecting rod assembly onto the J 24086-10.
5. Install the J 24086-107 adapter onto the piston pin, and install the J 24086-88A through the J
24086-10 and onto the J 24086-107.
IMPORTANT: The piston and pin are a matched set and are not to be serviced separately
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Piston & Rod Assembly > Page 2318
6. Press the piston pin from the piston and connecting rod assembly.
PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLY
1. Install the J 24086-310 fork insert into the J 24086-10 fixture support assembly.
2. Adjust the J 24086-9 installation pin to the following setting: G-7.
CAUTION: Avoid contact with HOT components. Wear safety glasses and protective heat gloves to
avoid personal injury!
NOTICE: Applying excessive heat to the connecting rod may damage or distort the connecting rod
or piston. Connecting rod temperatures should not exceed 320°C (612°F).
3. Using a connecting rod kiln heat the piston pin end of the connecting rod to 320°C (612°F).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Piston & Rod Assembly > Page 2319
4. Assemble the piston, the connecting rod, and the J 24086-6A adapter as shown. Insert the
piston and connecting rod assembly into the J 24086-10
fixture support assembly.
NOTICE: After the J 24086-9 installation pin bottoms on the J 24086-10 fixture support assembly,
do not exceed a pressure of 35,000 kPa (5,000 psi), or damage to the connecting rod press may
result.
5. Install the J 24086-105 (2) onto the piston pin. Position the J 24086-9 (1) though the J 24086-10
fixture support assembly and onto the J
24086-105 (2).
6. Press the J 24086-9 (1) installation pin until it bottoms on the J 24086-10 fixture support
assembly. 7. Reinstall the piston rings onto the new piston.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Piston & Rod Assembly > Page 2320
8. Install the assembled piston and rod assembly into the engine. Verify that the directional arrows
on the top of the piston point to the front of the
engine.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Pin <--> [Piston
Pin, Engine] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 57-61-24A > Jun > 98 > Engine Tick or Rattle After Start-Up
Piston Pin: Customer Interest Engine - Tick or Rattle After Start-Up
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 57-61-24A
Date: June, 1998
Subject: Cold Engine Tick or Rattle After Start-up (Replace Piston/Pin Assembly)
Models: 1994-95 Buick Regal 1994-97 Buick Skylark 1994-98 Buick Century 1994-95 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica, Lumina, Monte Carlo 1996-98 Chevrolet Venture 1997-98 Chevrolet Malibu
1993-97 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 1994-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1994-97 Oldsmobile
Achieva 1996-98 Oldsmobile Silhouette 1997-98 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1994-98 Pontiac Grand Am,
Grand Prix 1996-98 Pontiac Trans Sport with 3100, 3400 V6 Engine (VINs M, E - RPOs L82, LA1)
This bulletin is being revised to expand the model year coverage, add the 3400 V6 Engine
applications and arts information. Also, the Cause statement has been changed. Please discard
Corporate Service Bulletin 57-61-24 (Section 6 - Engine).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a ticking type noise that begins shortly after cold engine
start-up and gradually diminishes as the engine warms up. In most cases, the noise is gone after
five (5) minutes. In severe cases, the noise may not disappear when the engine is hot.
Cause
Under normal design tolerances when the piston pin bore is produced at the maximum tolerance
and the piston pin is produced at the minimum tolerance (min-max tolerance) trace noise levels can
occur. This level of noise does not affect the reliability or durability of the product.
Correction
If piston-to-pin noise is detected and the customer desires the condition to be corrected, replace all
six pistons with pin assemblies. The new piston sets have a minimal piston-to-pin clearance.
Remember, piston-to-pin noise occurs in both park and drive at engine idle rpm and it varies in
intensity depending on the number of pistons involved. A ticking sound means one piston is
affected whereas a rattle or diesel type sound indicates more than one piston affected. The
following should also be checked:
1. On W-Cars, make sure the right side engine splash shield is not contacting the engine
crankshaft balancer. This condition usually happens cold and is caused by the shield curling when
cold.
2. Reference Service Bulletin 57-71-06 for transmission rattle noise often confused for engine rattle
noise.
3. Reference Service Bulletin 47-61-36 for Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner noise.
4. Check cylinder bore diameter and piston diameter as outlined in the Service Manual.
Important:
Excessive cylinder bore to piston diameter clearance can cause a similar type noise.
Use the procedure in the appropriate Service Manual for piston replacement.
Notice:
When installing the new piston and pin assembly onto the existing rods, use extreme care to avoid
damage to either the pin or piston bore. If damage to these areas occurs, the noise will return
because the damage will cause wear and excessive clearance.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Pin <--> [Piston
Pin, Engine] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 57-61-24A > Jun > 98 > Engine Tick or Rattle After Start-Up > Page 2329
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
J1307 Piston, Rod Use published labor
and/or Rings operation time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Pin <--> [Piston
Pin, Engine] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Piston Pin: >
01-06-01-002A > Dec > 02 > Engine - Piston Pin Removal/Installation Revision
Piston Pin: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Piston Pin Removal/Installation Revision
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 01-06-01-002A
Date: December, 2002
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Revised Piston Pin Removal/Installation Procedures
Models: 1994-96 Buick Regal 1994-98 Buick Skylark 1994-99 Buick Century 1994-96 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica 1994-99 Chevrolet Lumina 1995-99 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1997-99 Chevrolet
Malibu 1994-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Cierra 1994-97 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 1994-98
Oldsmobile Achieva 1997-99 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1994-98 Pontiac Grand Am 1994-99 Pontiac
Grand Prix with 3.1L Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
This bulletin is being revised to update the models information. Please discard Corporate Number
01-06-01-002 (Section 06-Engines).
This bulletin is being issued to revise the piston and rod assembly removal/installation procedures
in the Engine Section of the Service Manual.
Revised Service Procedure
The following steps are provided to assist in the replacement of the piston assemblies.
Tools Required
^ J 24086 Connecting Rod Press
^ J 24086-C Piston Pin Remover/Installer
^ Connecting Rod Oven (Rod kiln)
Piston and connecting Rod Disassemble
Important:
Prior to piston/connecting rod removal, mark or identify the piston/connecting rod assembly, and its
orientation to the front of the engine, before removal.
1. Remove the pistons from the engine following the instructions found in the Engine Repair
Section of the Service Manual.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Pin <--> [Piston
Pin, Engine] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Piston Pin: >
01-06-01-002A > Dec > 02 > Engine - Piston Pin Removal/Installation Revision > Page 2335
Notice:
A rod kiln MUST be used during assembly of the connecting rod to the piston. If a connecting rod
kiln is not available, seek the assistance of a reputable machine shop with a kiln. Under NO
circumstances should an acetylene torch or other uncontrolled heating device be used on
connecting rods, as permanent damage to the connecting rod may result.
Important:
It is not necessary to replace the piston rings, unless they were damaged during the repair process.
If the piston rings are to be reused, mark or identify the location/order of the rings as they
correspond to location on the piston being serviced. Refer to ring gap placement instructions found
in the Engine Repair Section of the Service Manual.
2. Using piston ring pliers, remove the piston rings from the piston.
3. Install the J 24086-310 fork insert into the J 24086-10 fixture support assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Pin <--> [Piston
Pin, Engine] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Piston Pin: >
01-06-01-002A > Dec > 02 > Engine - Piston Pin Removal/Installation Revision > Page 2336
4. Install the piston and connecting rod assembly onto the J 24086-10.
5. Install the J 24086-107 adapter onto the piston pin, and install the J 24086-88A through the J
24086-10 and onto the J 24086-107.
Important:
The piston and pin are a matched set and are not to be serviced separately
6. Press the piston pin from the piston and connecting rod assembly.
Piston and Connecting Rod Assembly
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Pin <--> [Piston
Pin, Engine] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Piston Pin: >
01-06-01-002A > Dec > 02 > Engine - Piston Pin Removal/Installation Revision > Page 2337
1. Install the J 24086-310 fork insert into the J 24086-10 fixture support assembly.
2. Adjust the J 24086-9 installation pin to the following setting: G-7.
Caution:
Avoid contact with HOT components. Wear safety glasses and protective heat gloves to avoid
personal injury!
Notice:
Applying excessive heat to the connecting rod may damage or distort the connecting rod or piston.
Connecting rod temperatures should not exceed 320°C (612°F).
3. Using a connecting rod kiln heat the piston pin end of the connecting rod to 320°C (612°F).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Pin <--> [Piston
Pin, Engine] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Piston Pin: >
01-06-01-002A > Dec > 02 > Engine - Piston Pin Removal/Installation Revision > Page 2338
4. Refer to the above illustration. Assemble the piston, the connecting rod, and the J 24086-6A
adapter as shown. Insert the piston and connecting rod assembly into the J 24086-10 fixture
support assembly.
Notice:
After the J 24086-9 installation pin bottoms on the J 24086-10 fixture support assembly, do not
exceed a pressure of 35,000 kPa (5,000 psi), or damage to the connecting rod press may result.
5. Refer to the above illustration. Install the J 24086-105 (2) onto the piston pin. Position the J
24086-9 (1) though the J 24086-10 fixture support assembly and onto the J 24086-105 (2).
6. Press the J 24086-9 (1) installation pin until it bottoms on the J 24086-10 fixture support
assembly.
7. Reinstall the piston rings onto the new piston. Refer to the Engine Repair Section of the Service
Manual for proper ring gap positioning.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Pin <--> [Piston
Pin, Engine] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Piston Pin: >
01-06-01-002A > Dec > 02 > Engine - Piston Pin Removal/Installation Revision > Page 2339
8. Refer to the above illustration. Install the assembled piston and rod assembly into the engine.
Verify that the directional arrows on the top of the piston point to the front of the engine.
9. Follow the remaining engine assembly instructions found in the Engine Mechanical Section of
the Service Manual.
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Pin <--> [Piston
Pin, Engine] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Piston Pin: >
57-61-24A > Jun > 98 > Engine - Tick or Rattle After Start-Up
Piston Pin: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Tick or Rattle After Start-Up
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 57-61-24A
Date: June, 1998
Subject: Cold Engine Tick or Rattle After Start-up (Replace Piston/Pin Assembly)
Models: 1994-95 Buick Regal 1994-97 Buick Skylark 1994-98 Buick Century 1994-95 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica, Lumina, Monte Carlo 1996-98 Chevrolet Venture 1997-98 Chevrolet Malibu
1993-97 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 1994-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1994-97 Oldsmobile
Achieva 1996-98 Oldsmobile Silhouette 1997-98 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1994-98 Pontiac Grand Am,
Grand Prix 1996-98 Pontiac Trans Sport with 3100, 3400 V6 Engine (VINs M, E - RPOs L82, LA1)
This bulletin is being revised to expand the model year coverage, add the 3400 V6 Engine
applications and arts information. Also, the Cause statement has been changed. Please discard
Corporate Service Bulletin 57-61-24 (Section 6 - Engine).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a ticking type noise that begins shortly after cold engine
start-up and gradually diminishes as the engine warms up. In most cases, the noise is gone after
five (5) minutes. In severe cases, the noise may not disappear when the engine is hot.
Cause
Under normal design tolerances when the piston pin bore is produced at the maximum tolerance
and the piston pin is produced at the minimum tolerance (min-max tolerance) trace noise levels can
occur. This level of noise does not affect the reliability or durability of the product.
Correction
If piston-to-pin noise is detected and the customer desires the condition to be corrected, replace all
six pistons with pin assemblies. The new piston sets have a minimal piston-to-pin clearance.
Remember, piston-to-pin noise occurs in both park and drive at engine idle rpm and it varies in
intensity depending on the number of pistons involved. A ticking sound means one piston is
affected whereas a rattle or diesel type sound indicates more than one piston affected. The
following should also be checked:
1. On W-Cars, make sure the right side engine splash shield is not contacting the engine
crankshaft balancer. This condition usually happens cold and is caused by the shield curling when
cold.
2. Reference Service Bulletin 57-71-06 for transmission rattle noise often confused for engine rattle
noise.
3. Reference Service Bulletin 47-61-36 for Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner noise.
4. Check cylinder bore diameter and piston diameter as outlined in the Service Manual.
Important:
Excessive cylinder bore to piston diameter clearance can cause a similar type noise.
Use the procedure in the appropriate Service Manual for piston replacement.
Notice:
When installing the new piston and pin assembly onto the existing rods, use extreme care to avoid
damage to either the pin or piston bore. If damage to these areas occurs, the noise will return
because the damage will cause wear and excessive clearance.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Pin <--> [Piston
Pin, Engine] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Piston Pin: >
57-61-24A > Jun > 98 > Engine - Tick or Rattle After Start-Up > Page 2344
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
J1307 Piston, Rod Use published labor
and/or Rings operation time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Pin <--> [Piston
Pin, Engine] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Piston Pin: >
01-06-01-002A > Dec > 02 > Engine - Piston Pin Removal/Installation Revision
Piston Pin: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Piston Pin Removal/Installation Revision
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 01-06-01-002A
Date: December, 2002
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Revised Piston Pin Removal/Installation Procedures
Models: 1994-96 Buick Regal 1994-98 Buick Skylark 1994-99 Buick Century 1994-96 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica 1994-99 Chevrolet Lumina 1995-99 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1997-99 Chevrolet
Malibu 1994-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Cierra 1994-97 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 1994-98
Oldsmobile Achieva 1997-99 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1994-98 Pontiac Grand Am 1994-99 Pontiac
Grand Prix with 3.1L Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
This bulletin is being revised to update the models information. Please discard Corporate Number
01-06-01-002 (Section 06-Engines).
This bulletin is being issued to revise the piston and rod assembly removal/installation procedures
in the Engine Section of the Service Manual.
Revised Service Procedure
The following steps are provided to assist in the replacement of the piston assemblies.
Tools Required
^ J 24086 Connecting Rod Press
^ J 24086-C Piston Pin Remover/Installer
^ Connecting Rod Oven (Rod kiln)
Piston and connecting Rod Disassemble
Important:
Prior to piston/connecting rod removal, mark or identify the piston/connecting rod assembly, and its
orientation to the front of the engine, before removal.
1. Remove the pistons from the engine following the instructions found in the Engine Repair
Section of the Service Manual.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Pin <--> [Piston
Pin, Engine] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Piston Pin: >
01-06-01-002A > Dec > 02 > Engine - Piston Pin Removal/Installation Revision > Page 2350
Notice:
A rod kiln MUST be used during assembly of the connecting rod to the piston. If a connecting rod
kiln is not available, seek the assistance of a reputable machine shop with a kiln. Under NO
circumstances should an acetylene torch or other uncontrolled heating device be used on
connecting rods, as permanent damage to the connecting rod may result.
Important:
It is not necessary to replace the piston rings, unless they were damaged during the repair process.
If the piston rings are to be reused, mark or identify the location/order of the rings as they
correspond to location on the piston being serviced. Refer to ring gap placement instructions found
in the Engine Repair Section of the Service Manual.
2. Using piston ring pliers, remove the piston rings from the piston.
3. Install the J 24086-310 fork insert into the J 24086-10 fixture support assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Pin <--> [Piston
Pin, Engine] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Piston Pin: >
01-06-01-002A > Dec > 02 > Engine - Piston Pin Removal/Installation Revision > Page 2351
4. Install the piston and connecting rod assembly onto the J 24086-10.
5. Install the J 24086-107 adapter onto the piston pin, and install the J 24086-88A through the J
24086-10 and onto the J 24086-107.
Important:
The piston and pin are a matched set and are not to be serviced separately
6. Press the piston pin from the piston and connecting rod assembly.
Piston and Connecting Rod Assembly
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Pin <--> [Piston
Pin, Engine] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Piston Pin: >
01-06-01-002A > Dec > 02 > Engine - Piston Pin Removal/Installation Revision > Page 2352
1. Install the J 24086-310 fork insert into the J 24086-10 fixture support assembly.
2. Adjust the J 24086-9 installation pin to the following setting: G-7.
Caution:
Avoid contact with HOT components. Wear safety glasses and protective heat gloves to avoid
personal injury!
Notice:
Applying excessive heat to the connecting rod may damage or distort the connecting rod or piston.
Connecting rod temperatures should not exceed 320°C (612°F).
3. Using a connecting rod kiln heat the piston pin end of the connecting rod to 320°C (612°F).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Pin <--> [Piston
Pin, Engine] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Piston Pin: >
01-06-01-002A > Dec > 02 > Engine - Piston Pin Removal/Installation Revision > Page 2353
4. Refer to the above illustration. Assemble the piston, the connecting rod, and the J 24086-6A
adapter as shown. Insert the piston and connecting rod assembly into the J 24086-10 fixture
support assembly.
Notice:
After the J 24086-9 installation pin bottoms on the J 24086-10 fixture support assembly, do not
exceed a pressure of 35,000 kPa (5,000 psi), or damage to the connecting rod press may result.
5. Refer to the above illustration. Install the J 24086-105 (2) onto the piston pin. Position the J
24086-9 (1) though the J 24086-10 fixture support assembly and onto the J 24086-105 (2).
6. Press the J 24086-9 (1) installation pin until it bottoms on the J 24086-10 fixture support
assembly.
7. Reinstall the piston rings onto the new piston. Refer to the Engine Repair Section of the Service
Manual for proper ring gap positioning.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Pin <--> [Piston
Pin, Engine] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Piston Pin: >
01-06-01-002A > Dec > 02 > Engine - Piston Pin Removal/Installation Revision > Page 2354
8. Refer to the above illustration. Install the assembled piston and rod assembly into the engine.
Verify that the directional arrows on the top of the piston point to the front of the engine.
9. Follow the remaining engine assembly instructions found in the Engine Mechanical Section of
the Service Manual.
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Pin <--> [Piston
Pin, Engine] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2355
Piston Pin: Specifications
Diameter
............................................................................................................................................................
22.9915-22.9964 mm (0.9052-0.9054 inch) Clearance in Piston
..................................................................................................................................................
0.0126-0.245 mm (0.0004-0.0008 inch) Fit in Rod (press)
...............................................................................................................................................
0.0165-0.0464 mm (0.00065-0.00180 inch)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Pin <--> [Piston
Pin, Engine] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2356
Piston Pin: Service and Repair
This article has been updated with bulletin No.: 01-06-01-002A.
REVISED PISTON PIN REMOVAL/INSTALLATION PROCEDURES
TOOLS REQUIRED:
^ J 24086 Connecting Rod Press
^ J 24086-C Piston Pin Remover/Installer
^ Connecting Rod Oven (Rod kiln)
PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD DISASSEMBLE
IMPORTANT: Prior to piston/connecting rod removal, mark or identify the piston/connecting rod
assembly, and its orientation to the front of the engine, before removal.
1. Remove the pistons from the engine following the instructions found in the Engine Repair
Section of the Service Manual.
NOTICE: A rod kiln MUST be used during assembly of the connecting rod to the piston. If a
connecting rod kiln is not available, seek the assistance of a reputable machine shop with a kiln.
Under NO circumstances should an acetylene torch or other uncontrolled heating device be used
on connecting rods, as permanent damage to the connecting rod may result.
IMPORTANT: It is not necessary to replace the piston rings, unless they were damaged during the
repair process. If the piston rings are to be reused, mark or identify the location/order of the rings
as they correspond to location on the piston being serviced.
2. Using piston ring pliers, remove the piston rings from the piston.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Pin <--> [Piston
Pin, Engine] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2357
3. Install the J 24086-310 fork insert into the J 24086-10 fixture support assembly.
4. Install the piston and connecting rod assembly onto the J 24086-10.
5. Install the J 24086-107 adapter onto the piston pin, and install the J 24086-88A through the J
24086-10 and onto the J 24086-107.
IMPORTANT: The piston and pin are a matched set and are not to be serviced separately
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Pin <--> [Piston
Pin, Engine] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2358
6. Press the piston pin from the piston and connecting rod assembly.
PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLY
1. Install the J 24086-310 fork insert into the J 24086-10 fixture support assembly.
2. Adjust the J 24086-9 installation pin to the following setting: G-7.
CAUTION: Avoid contact with HOT components. Wear safety glasses and protective heat gloves to
avoid personal injury!
NOTICE: Applying excessive heat to the connecting rod may damage or distort the connecting rod
or piston. Connecting rod temperatures should not exceed 320°C (612°F).
3. Using a connecting rod kiln heat the piston pin end of the connecting rod to 320°C (612°F).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Pin <--> [Piston
Pin, Engine] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2359
4. Assemble the piston, the connecting rod, and the J 24086-6A adapter as shown. Insert the
piston and connecting rod assembly into the J 24086-10
fixture support assembly.
NOTICE: After the J 24086-9 installation pin bottoms on the J 24086-10 fixture support assembly,
do not exceed a pressure of 35,000 kPa (5,000 psi), or damage to the connecting rod press may
result.
5. Install the J 24086-105 (2) onto the piston pin. Position the J 24086-9 (1) though the J 24086-10
fixture support assembly and onto the J
24086-105 (2).
6. Press the J 24086-9 (1) installation pin until it bottoms on the J 24086-10 fixture support
assembly. 7. Reinstall the piston rings onto the new piston.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Pin <--> [Piston
Pin, Engine] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2360
8. Install the assembled piston and rod assembly into the engine. Verify that the directional arrows
on the top of the piston point to the front of the
engine.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Ring, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications
Piston Ring: Specifications
Groove Clearance
First
...........................................................................................................................................................
0.050-0.085 mm (0.0020-0.0033 inch) Second
.......................................................................................................................................................
0.050-0.090 mm (0.0020-0.0035 inch) Oil (max.) ................................................................................
............................................................................................. 0.20 mm (0.008 inch)
Ring Gap
First ......................................................................................................................................................
............. 0.15-0.36 mm (0.006-0.014 inch) Second
............................................................................................................................................................
0.50-0.71 mm(0.0197-0.0280 inch) Oil ................................................................................................
................................................................. 0.25-0.75 mm (0.0098-0.0500 inch)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Ring, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2364
Piston Ring: Testing and Inspection
1. Select a set of new piston rings, if necessary. 2. Use the following procedure to measure the
piston ring end gap:
a. Place the piston into the cylinders at the bottom of the ring travel. b. Place a piston ring on top of
the piston. c. Back off the piston. d. Measure the ring gap. If the gap is below specification increase
the gap by carefully filing off excess material.
CAUTION: High spots in the ring groove may be cleaned up by careful use of a point file. Do not
attempt to cut the ring groove.
3. Measure the piston compression ring side clearance. Roll the piston ring around the groove in
which it will be installed and measure the side
clearance. If the ring is too thick, try another ring.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Ring, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2365
Piston Ring: Service and Repair
WARNING: Handle the piston carefully. Worn piston rings are sharp and may cause bodily injury.
REMOVAL
Disassemble the piston rings. Use a suitable tool in order to expand the rings. Do not re-use the
piston rings.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the following parts of the oil control ring assembly:
^ The expander
^ The lower oil control ring
^ The upper oil control ring
CAUTION: Use a piston ring expander to install the piston rings. The rings may be damaged if
expanded more than necessary. In order to provide an effective compression seal, the ring gaps
must be staggered.
2. Install the upper and lower compression ring with the manufacturer's mark facing up.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Clearance >
System Information > Specifications
Valve Clearance: Specifications
This engine uses hydraulic lifters and no valve lash adjustment is necessary.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Fuel Pressure Release
> System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
Tool Required: J 3473-1A, Fuel Pressure Gauge
1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal to avoid possible fuel discharge if an accidental attempt
is made to start the engine. 2. Loosen the fuel filler cap to relieve tank vapor pressure. 3. Connect
Fuel Pressure Gauge J 34730-1A to the fuel pressure connection. Wrap a shop towel around the
fuel pressure connection while
connecting the fuel pressure gauge in order to avoid spillage.
4. Install the bleed hose into an approved container and open the valve to bleed the system
pressure. The fuel connections are now safe for servicing. 5. Drain any fuel remaining in the fuel
pressure gauge into an approved container.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Rocker Arm Assembly
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Rocker Arm Bolt Tightening Specification Update
Rocker Arm Assembly: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Rocker Arm Bolt Tightening
Specification Update
File In Section: 06 - Engine/propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 02-06-01-034
Date: October, 2002
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Revised Rocker Arm Bolt Fastener Tightening Specification
Models: 1996-1998 Buick Skylark 1996-2002 Buick Regal 1997-2002 Buick Century 1996
Chevrolet Beretta, Corsica, Lumina APV 1996-2001 Chevrolet Lumina 1996-2002 Chevrolet Monte
Carlo 1997 Chevrolet Venture 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 2000-2002 Chevrolet Impala
1996-1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, Silhouette 1996-1998 Oldsmobile Achieve 1998-1999
Oldsmobile Cutlass, Intrigue 1999-2002 Oldsmobile Alero 1996-1997 Pontiac Trans Sport
1996-2003 Pontiac Grand Am, Grand Prix with 3.1L or 3.4L Engine (VINs M, J, E - RPOs L82,
LG8, LA1)
This bulletin is being issued to revise the rocker arm bolt fastener tightening specification found in
several procedures in the Engine Mechanical - 3.1L sub-section and the Engine Mechanical - 3.4L
sub-section of the Service Manual. Please replace the current information in the Service Manual
with the following information.
The following information has been updated within SI. If you are using a paper version of this
Service Manual, please make a reference to this bulletin on the affected page.
The correct torque for the rocker arm bolt is 14 N.m (124 lb in) plus 30 degrees. This specification
can be found in Fastener Tightening Specifications, Valve Rocker Arm and Push Rod Replacement
and Lower Intake Manifold Replacement (for 1996 Chevrolet Beretta/Corsica, 1996-1997 Buick
Skylark, Pontiac Grand Am, Oldsmobile Achieva and 1997 Chevrolet Malibu ONLY).
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Rocker Arm Assembly
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2377
Rocker Arm Assembly: Specifications
This article has been updated with bulletin No.: 02-06-01-034.
Vehicles with 3.1L or 3.4L Engine (VINs M, J, E - RPOs L82, LG8, LA1).
REVISED ROCKER ARM BOLT FASTENER TIGHTENING SPECIFICATION
Rocker arm bolt
......................................................................................................................................................... 14
Nm (124 in. lb.) plus 30 degrees.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Rocker Arm Assembly
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2378
Rocker Arm Assembly: Service and Repair
TOOL REQUIRED
^ J 36660 Torque Angle Meter
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the valve rocker covers.
CAUTION: Keep the components separated so they may be installed in the same location.
3. Remove the rocker arm bolts. 4. Remove the rocker arm pivot balls. 5. Remove the rocker arms.
CAUTION: Keep the pushrods in order so that they can be installed in the original position.
6. Remove the pushrods.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the pushrods in their original location.
^ Coat the ends of the pushrods with prelude. Use GM P/N 1052356 or its equivalent.
^ The intake pushrods are marked with yellow stripes and are 5 3/4 inches long.
^ Exhaust pushrods are marked with green stripes and are 6 inches long.
^ Ensure that the pushrods seat in the liner.
2. Install the rocker arms. 3. Install the rocker arm pivot balls.
Coat the bearing surfaces of the rocker arms and the pivot balls with prelude. Use GM P/N
1052356 or its equivalent.
4. Install the rocker arm bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 14 Nm (124 in. lbs.). Use the Torque Angle Meter in order to tighten the bolts
an additional 30 degrees.
5. Install the valve rocker covers. 6. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Cover >
Component Information > Specifications
Valve Cover: Specifications
Retaining Bolts
Tighten the retainer bolts in two steps.
1st step ................................................................................................................................................
..................................................... hand tighten bolts
2nd step ...............................................................................................................................................
................................................. 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Cover >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2382
Valve Cover: Testing and Inspection
1. Clean the valve rocker cover gasket surfaces. 2. Inspect the following areas:
^ The gasket flanges for damage
^ The rocker cover for cracks
^ The rubber grommets for deterioration
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Cover >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Cylinder Head Cover - Left
Valve Cover: Service and Repair Cylinder Head Cover - Left
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Partially drain the cooling system. See Cooling
System. 3. Remove the coolant by pass pipe from the coolant pump and the exhaust manifold. See
Cooling System. 4. Remove the PCV valve from the valve rocker cover. 5. Remove the valve
rocker cover bolts.
6. Remove the valve rocker cover. Bump the end of the valve rocker cover with the palm of your
hand or a soft rubber mallet if the cover adheres to
the cylinder head.
7. Clean the sealing surface on the cylinder head and the valve rocker cover with degreaser.
INSTALLATION
1. Install a new gasket and new bolt grommets to the valve rocker cover. Ensure that the gasket is
seated properly in the valve groove. 2. Apply sealer in the notch on the cover. Use GM P/N
1052917 or its equivalent. 3. Install the valve rocker cover. 4. Install the valve rocker cover bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.) + 30 degrees. 5. Install the PCV valve to the valve rocker
cover. 6. Install the coolant by pass pipe to the coolant pump and the manifold. See Cooling
System. 7. Fill the cooling system. See Cooling System. 8. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Cover >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Cylinder Head Cover - Left > Page 2385
Valve Cover: Service and Repair Cylinder Head Cover - Right
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the rear ignition wire harness at the upper intake manifold and at the spark plugs. 3.
Remove the brake booster vacuum supply at the upper intake manifold. 4. Remove the drive belt.
5. Remove the generator. Support the generator. See Starting and Charging. 6. Remove the
following components:
^ Electronic ignition coil and module assembly
^ EVAP canister purge solenoid
7. Remove the valve rocker cover bolts. 8. Remove the valve rocker cover. Bump the end of the
valve rocker cover with the palm of your hand or a soft rubber mallet if the cover adheres to
the cylinder head.
9. Clean the sealing surface on the cylinder head and the valve rocker cover with degreaser.
INSTALLATION
1. Install a new gasket and new bolt grommets to the valve rocker cover. Ensure that the gasket is
seated properly in the valve groove. 2. Apply sealer in the notch on the cover. Use GM P/N
1052917 or its equivalent. 3. Install the valve rocker cover. 4. Install the valve rocker cover bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.). 5. Install the generator. See Starting and Charging. 6.
Install the drive belt. 7. Install the brake booster vacuum supply line. 8. Install the following
components:
^ EVAP canister purge solenoid
^ Electronic ignition coil and module assembly
9. Install the rear ignition wire harness.
10. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Guide >
Component Information > Specifications
Valve Guide: Specifications
TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS
Guide Bolt ............................................................................................................................................
....................................... 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Guide >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2389
Valve Guide: Service and Repair
1. Ream the valve guides for oversize valves if the clearance exceeds the specifications. 2. Ream
the valve guide bores for the oversize valves as necessary. 3. Reconditioning the valve seats is
very important.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Seat >
Component Information > Specifications
Valve Seat: Specifications
DIMENSIONS
Runout (max.) ......................................................................................................................................
.................................... 0.025 mm (0.001 inch) Width
Intake ...................................................................................................................................................
.............. 1.55-1.80 mm (0.061-0.071 inch) Exhaust ...........................................................................
..................................................................................... 1.70-2.0 mm (0.067-0.079 inch)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Seat >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2393
Valve Seat: Service and Repair
Recondition valve seat after reaming the valve guide bores or installing the new valve guides. ^
The valves must seat perfectly for the engine to deliver optimum power and performance.
^ Cooling the valve heads is another important factor. Good contact between each valve and its
seat in the cylinder head is necessary to insure that the heat in the valve head is properly carried
away.
^ Regardless of what type of equipment is used, it is essential that the valve guide bores are free
from carbon or dirt to ensure the proper centering of the pilot in the guide. The valve seats should
be concentric to within 0.05 mm (0.031 inch) total indicator reading.
^ Reface pitted valves on a valve refacing machine in order to insure the correct relationship
between the head and the stem. Replace the valve if the stem is warped, or if the stem shows
signs of excessive wear. Replace the valve if the edge of the head is less than the minimum margin
specification.
^ Several different types of equipment are available for reconditioning valves and valve seats. Use
the manufacturers recommendations of equipment to attain the proper results.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Spring >
Component Information > Specifications
Valve Spring: Specifications
Approximate # of Coils ........................................................................................................................
........................................................................... 6.55 Free Length .....................................................
....................................................................................................................................... 48.5 mm
(1.89 inch) Installed Height ..................................................................................................................
.................................................................. 43.2 mm (1.701 inch) Load
Closed[1] .............................................................................................................................................
...................................... 43.2 mm (1.701 inch) Open[2] ......................................................................
................................................................................................................... 32 mm (1.260 inch)
[1] At 320 Nm (75 lbs.) [2] At 1036 Nm (230 lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve, Intake/Exhaust
> Component Information > Specifications
Valve: Specifications
Stem Clearance
............................................................................................................................................................
0.026-0.068 mm (0.001-0.0027 inch) Margin
Intake (min.) .........................................................................................................................................
..................................... 2.10 mm (0.083 inch) Exhaust .......................................................................
............................................................................................................... 2.70 mm (0.106 inch)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics
Drive Belt: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-06-01-008A
Date: July 27, 2009
Subject: Diagnosing Accessory Drive Belt / Serpentine Belt Noise and Availability and Use of
Kent-Moore EN-49228 Laser Alignment Tool - Drive Belt
Models:
2010 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 Vehicles 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add a model year and update the Tool Information.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 08-06-01-008 (Section 06 - Engine).
Background
Several aftermarket companies offer laser alignment tools for accessory drive systems that can be
very helpful in eliminating drive belt noise as a result of misaligned pulleys. Typically pricing ranges
from $160 - $200.
EN-49228 Laser Alignment Tool - Drive Belt
The GM Tool program has now made available a competitive, simple to use and time-saving laser
tool to assist in achieving precise alignment of the drive belt pulleys. This optional tool removes the
guesswork from proper pulley alignment and may serve to reduce comebacks from:
- Drive Belt Noise
- Accelerated Drive Belt Wear
- Drive Belt Slippage
Instructions
The instructions below are specific only to the truck Gen IV V-8 family of engines. These
instructions are only for illustrative purposes to show how the tool may be used. Universal
instructions are included in the box with the Laser Alignment Tool - Drive Belt.
Caution
- Do not look directly into the beam projected from the laser.
- Use caution when shining the laser on highly polished or reflective surfaces. Laser safety glasses
help reduce laser beam glare in many circumstances.
- Always use laser safety glasses when using the laser. Laser safety glasses are not designed to
protect eyes from direct laser exposure.
1. Observe and mark the serpentine belt orientation.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics > Page
2405
2. Remove the serpentine belt from the accessory drive system.
3. Install the tool onto the power steering pulley. Position the legs of the tool into the outer grooves
of the pulley, farthest from the front of the
engine.
4. Install the retaining cord around the pulley and to the legs of the tool.
5. Put on the laser safety glasses provided with the tool. 6. Depress the switch on the rear of the
tool to activate the light beam. 7. Rotate the power steering pulley as required to project the light
beam onto the crankshaft balancer pulley grooves. 8. Inspect for proper power steering pulley
alignment.
- If the laser beam projects onto the second rib or raised area (1), the pulleys are aligned properly.
- If the laser beam projects more than one-quarter rib 0.9 mm (0.035 in) mis-alignment, adjust the
position of the power steering pulley as required.
- Refer to SI for Power Steering Pulley Removal and Installation procedures.
9. Install the serpentine belt to the accessory drive system in the original orientation.
10. Operate the vehicle and verify that the belt noise concern is no longer present.
Tool Information
Please visit the GM service tool website for pricing information or to place your order for this tool.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics > Page
2406
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics > Page
2407
Drive Belt: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Serpentine Drive Belt Wear Information
Bulletin No.: 04-06-01-013
Date: April 29, 2004
INFORMATION
Subject: Information on Serpentine Belt Wear
Models: 2004 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks 2003-2004 and Prior HUMMER H2
All current GM vehicles designed and manufactured in North America were assembled with
serpentine belts that are made with an EPDM material and should last the life of the vehicle. It is
extremely rare to observe any cracks in EPDM belts and it is not expected that they will require
maintenance before 10 years or 240,000 km (150,000 mi) of use.
Older style belts, which were manufactured with a chloroprene compound, may exhibit cracks
depending on age. However, the onset of cracking typically signals that the belt is only about
halfway through its usable life.
A good rule of thumb for chloroprene-based belts is that if cracks are observed 3 mm (1/8 in) apart,
ALL AROUND THE BELT, the belt may be reaching the end of its serviceable life and should be
considered a candidate for changing. Small cracks spaced at greater intervals should not be
considered as indicative that the belt needs changing.
Any belt that exhibits chunking should be replaced.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
Drive Belt: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures > Page 2410
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures > Page 2411
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures > Page 2412
Drive Belt: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
The following are symptomatic noises of the accessory drive belt system:
1. Chirping:
^ A high pitched noise that is usually heard once per revolution of a pulley or a belt.
^ It is most common on cold, damp mornings.
^ Verify this condition by squirting water onto the belt. The noise will momentarily stop.
^ A loud screeching noise that is caused by a slipping belt (this is unusual for a multiple ribbed
belt).
^ The noise occurs when a heavy load is applied to the belt, such as an air conditioning
compressor engagement, snapping the throttle, or slipping on a seized pulley.
3. Whine:
^ A high pitched continuous noise that may be caused by a failed component bearing.
4. Faint Cycle Rumbling:
^ A low frequency noise heard once per revolution of the belt.
5. Pilling:
^ The random accumulation of rubber dust in the bottom of the multi-ribbed belt grooves. A small
amount of pilling is normal. Operation of the drive belt system will not be effected unless the
buildup exceeds one third (1/3) of the belt groove depth.
NOTE: Multiple ribbed, accessory drive belts wear evenly with their pulleys. Unusual wear indicates
a correction is needed. The following diagnostic tables will aid in diagnosing drive belt system
problems.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 2413
Drive Belt: Service and Repair
TOOL REQUIRED
^ J 39914 Drive Belt Tension Wrench
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Rotate the belt tensioner. Use the Drive Belt Tension Wrench.
3. Remove the drive belt from the generator pulley. 4. Support the engine by the oil pan. 5.
Remove the engine mount assembly from the engine mount bracket support. 6. Remove the
auxiliary bracket. 7. Lower the engine in order to remove the drive belt. 8. Remove the drive belt.
INSTALLATION
1. Rotate the belt tensioner. Use the Drive Belt Tension Wrench. 2. Install the drive belt. 3. Install
the auxiliary bracket. 4. Install the auxiliary bracket fasteners. Tighten the fasteners to 50 Nm (37 ft.
lbs.). 5. Install the engine mount assembly to the engine mount bracket support bolts. 6. Remove
the floor jack. 7. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt Tensioner > Component Information > Specifications
Drive Belt Tensioner: Specifications
Tensioner Bolt .....................................................................................................................................
..................................................... 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt Tensioner > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2417
Drive Belt Tensioner: Testing and Inspection
TOOL REQUIRED
^ J 23600-B Belt tension Gauge
1. Run the engine, with no accessories on, until the engine is warmed up. Shut the engine off and
read the belt tension using the Belt Tension Gauge
placed halfway between the generator and the power steering pump.
2. Start the engine with the accessories off and allow the system to stabilize for 15 seconds. Turn
the engine off. Using a 15 mm socket, apply
clockwise force (tighten) to the tensioner pulley bolt. Release the force and immediately take a
tension reading without disturbing belt tensioner position.
3. Using the same wrench, apply a counterclockwise force to the tensioner pulley bolt and raise the
pulley to eliminate all tension. Slowly lower the
pulley to the belt and take a tensioner reading without disturbing the belt tensioner position.
4. Average the three readings. If the average of the three readings is not between 133-222 N
(30-50 lbs.) and the bolt is within the tensioners
operating range, replace the tensioner.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt Tensioner > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2418
Drive Belt Tensioner: Service and Repair
TOOL REQUIRED
^ J 39914 Drive Belt Tension Wrench
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Rotate the drive belt tensioner. Use the Drive Belt Tension Wrench.
3. Remove the drive belt from the generator pulley. 4. Raise the vehicle. Support the vehicle. 5.
Remove the right tire and wheel assembly. 6. Remove the right splash shield.
7. Remove the tensioner bolt. 8. Remove the tensioner.
INSTALLATION
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt Tensioner > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2419
1. Install the drive belt tensioner. 2. Install the tensioner bolt. Tighten the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the right splash shield. 4. Install the right tire and wheel assembly. 5. Lower the vehicle. 6.
Rotate the belt tensioner. Use the Drive Belt Tension Wrench. 7. Install the drive belt to the
generator pulley. 8. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Engine Mount: > 736016 >
Feb > 97 > Engine - Noise On Acceleration & Vibration at Idle
Engine Mount: Customer Interest Engine - Noise On Acceleration & Vibration at Idle
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 73-60-16
Date: February, 1997
Subject: Vibration at Idle and Increased Engine Noise on Acceleration (Replace Front/Rear Torque
Reaction Mounts)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Built Prior To December, 1996
Condition
Some owners may comment on a vibration at idle and increased engine noise on acceleration.
Cause
Vibration at idle and engine noise may be caused by high dynamic rates (stiffness) in the front and
rear torque reaction mounts.
Correction
Replace both the front and rear torque reaction mounts. Refer to Automatic Transaxle in the
Service Manual for remove and install procedures.
Parts Information
Part Number Description
22605356 Front Torque Reaction Mount
22605359 Rear Torque Reaction Mount
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
K6727 1.1 hrs
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Mount: >
736016 > Feb > 97 > Engine - Noise On Acceleration & Vibration at Idle
Engine Mount: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Noise On Acceleration & Vibration at Idle
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 73-60-16
Date: February, 1997
Subject: Vibration at Idle and Increased Engine Noise on Acceleration (Replace Front/Rear Torque
Reaction Mounts)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Built Prior To December, 1996
Condition
Some owners may comment on a vibration at idle and increased engine noise on acceleration.
Cause
Vibration at idle and engine noise may be caused by high dynamic rates (stiffness) in the front and
rear torque reaction mounts.
Correction
Replace both the front and rear torque reaction mounts. Refer to Automatic Transaxle in the
Service Manual for remove and install procedures.
Parts Information
Part Number Description
22605356 Front Torque Reaction Mount
22605359 Rear Torque Reaction Mount
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
K6727 1.1 hrs
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2433
Engine Mount: Specifications
Bracket Bolt .........................................................................................................................................
..................................................... 58 Nm (43 ft. lbs.) Mount to
Bracket Nut ..........................................................................................................................................
........................................... 47 Nm (35 ft. lbs.) Frame Bracket Nut .....................................................
..................................................................................................................... 43 Nm (32 ft. lbs.)
Mount Strut Nut ...................................................................................................................................
..................................................... 48 Nm (35 ft. lbs.) Mount Strut Bracket Bolt:
Engine Left Side ..................................................................................................................................
........................................... 70 Nm (52 ft. lbs.) Engine Right Side ......................................................
..................................................................................................................... 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.) Upper
Radiator support ..................................................................................................................................
................................ 26 Nm (19 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2434
Engine Mount: Testing and Inspection
NOTE: Torque axis mounting systems allow more engine movement than other mounting systems.
The engine movement is the design intent of the mounting system. Do not replace the torque axis
mounts unless the mount or the rubber is damaged.
1. Raise the engine in order to apply slight tension on the engine mount. 2. Replace the engine
mount if any of the following conditions exist:
^ The hard rubber surface is covered with heat cracks,
^ The rubber is separated from the engine mount metal plate
^ The rubber is split through the center
3. Lower the engine. 4. Check the engine mount fastener torque.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2435
Engine Mount: Service and Repair
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Support the engine by the oil pan.
3. Remove the engine mount assembly to engine mount bracket support bolts. 4. Remove the
engine mount to body fasteners.
5. Remove the engine mount assembly.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the engine mount assembly. 2. Install the body fasteners to the engine mount.
^ Tighten the bolt to 130 Nm (96 ft. lbs.).
^ Tighten the nut to 66 Nm (49 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the engine mount bracket support bolts to the engine mount. Tighten the bolt to 130 Nm
(96 ft. lbs.). 4. Remove the floor jack. 5. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil Pressure >
Component Information > Specifications
Engine Oil Pressure: Specifications
Oil Pressure .........................................................................................................................................
.................................. 103 kPa (15 psi at 1100 RPM)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil Dip Stick - Dip
Stick Tube > Component Information > Specifications
Engine Oil Dip Stick - Dip Stick Tube: Specifications
Assemble Bolt ......................................................................................................................................
..................................................... 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil Dip Stick - Dip
Stick Tube > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2443
Engine Oil Dip Stick - Dip Stick Tube: Service and Repair
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the oil level indicator tube nut. 3. Remove the oil level indicator tube from the engine.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the oil level indicator tube to the engine. Ensure that the tube assembly is fully seated in
the engine. 2. Install the oil level indicator tube nut. Tighten the nut to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.). 3.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil Drain Plug >
Component Information > Specifications
Engine Oil Drain Plug: Specifications
Gallery Plug:
1/4 inch ................................................................................................................................................
..................................... 19 Nm (14 ft. lbs.) 3/8 inch ............................................................................
......................................................................................................... 33 Nm (24 ft. lbs.)
Oil Pan Plug .........................................................................................................................................
..................................................... 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - GM dexos 1 and dexos 2(R) Oil Specifications
Engine Oil: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - GM dexos 1 and dexos 2(R) Oil Specifications
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 11-00-90-001
Date: March 14, 2011
Subject: Global Information for GM dexos1(TM) and GM dexos2(TM) Engine Oil Specifications for
Spark Ignited and Diesel Engines, Available Licensed Brands, and Service Fill for Adding or
Complete Oil Change
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks Excluding All Vehicles Equipped with
Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines
GM dexos 1(TM) Information Center Website
Refer to the following General Motors website for dexos 1(TM) information about the different
licensed brands that are currently available: http://www.gmdexos.com
GM dexos 1(TM) Engine Oil Trademark and Icons
The dexos(TM) specification and trademarks are exclusive to General Motors, LLC.
Only those oils displaying the dexos‹›(TM) trademark and icon on the front label meet the
demanding performance requirements and stringent quality standards set forth in the dexos‹›(TM)
specification.
Look on the front label for any of the logos shown above to identify an authorized, licensed dexos
1(TM) engine oil.
GM dexos 1(TM) Engine Oil Specification
Important General Motors dexos 1(TM) engine oil specification replaces the previous General
Motors specifications GM6094M, GM4718M and GM-LL-A-025 for most GM gasoline engines. The
oil specified for use in GM passenger cars and trucks, PRIOR to the 2011 model year remains
acceptable for those previous vehicles. However, dexos 1(TM) is backward compatible and can be
used in those older vehicles.
In North America, starting with the 2011 model year, GM introduced dexos 1(TM) certified engine
oil as a factory fill and service fill for gasoline engines. The reasons for the new engine oil
specification are as follows:
- To meet environmental goals such as increasing fuel efficiency and reducing engine emissions.
- To promote long engine life.
- To minimize the number of engine oil changes in order to help meet the goal of lessening the
industry's overall dependence on crude oil.
dexos 1(TM) is a GM-developed engine oil specification that has been designed to provide the
following benefits:
- Further improve fuel economy, to meet future corporate average fuel economy (CAFE)
requirements and fuel economy retention by allowing the oil to maintain its fuel economy benefits
throughout the life of the oil.
- More robust formulations for added engine protection and aeration performance.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - GM dexos 1 and dexos 2(R) Oil Specifications > Page 2451
- Support the GM Oil Life System, thereby minimizing the replacement of engine oil, before its life
has been depleted.
- Reduce the duplication of requirements for a large number of internal GM engine oil
specifications.
International Lubricants Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC)
GF-5 Standard
In addition to GM dexos 1(TM), a new International Lubricants Standardization and Approval
Committee (ILSAC) standard called GF-5, was introduced in October 2010.
- There will be a corresponding API category, called: SN Resource Conserving. The current GF-4
standard was put in place in 2004 and will become obsolete in October 2011. Similar to dexos
1(TM), the GF-5 standard will use a new fuel economy test, Sequence VID, which demands a
statistically significant increase in fuel economy versus the Sequence VIB test that was used for
GF-4.
- It is expected that all dexos 1(TM) approved oils will be capable of meeting the GF-5 standard.
However, not all GF-5 engine oils will be capable of meeting the dexos 1(TM) specification.
- Like dexos(TM), the new ILSAC GF-5 standard will call for more sophisticated additives. The API
will begin licensing marketers during October 2010, to produce and distribute GF-5 certified
products, which are expected to include SAE 0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-20, 5W-30 and 10W-30 oils.
Corporate Average Fuel Economy (CAFE) Requirements Effect on Fuel Economy
Since CAFE standards were first introduced in 1974, the fuel economy of cars has more than
doubled, while the fuel economy of light trucks has increased by more than 50 percent. Proposed
CAFE standards call for a continuation of increased fuel economy in new cars and trucks. To meet
these future requirements, all aspects of vehicle operation are being looked at more critically than
ever before.
New technology being introduced in GM vehicles designed to increase vehicle efficiency and fuel
economy include direct injection, cam phasing, turbocharging and active fuel management (AFM).
The demands of these new technologies on engine oil also are taken into consideration when
determining new oil specifications. AFM for example can help to achieve improved fuel economy.
However alternately deactivating and activating the cylinders by not allowing the intake and
exhaust valves to open contributes to additional stress on the engine oil.
Another industry trend for meeting tough fuel economy mandates has been a shift toward lower
viscosity oils.
dexos 1(TM) will eventually be offered in several viscosity grades in accordance with engine needs:
SAE 0W-20, 5W-20, 0W-30 and 5W-30.
Using the right viscosity grade oil is critical for proper engine performance. Always refer to the
Maintenance section of a vehicle Owner Manual for the proper viscosity grade for the engine being
serviced.
GM Oil Life System in Conjunction With dexos (TM) Supports Extended Oil Change Intervals
To help conserve oil while maintaining engine protection, many GM vehicles are equipped with the
GM Oil Life System. This system can provide oil change intervals that exceed the traditional 3,000
mile (4,830 km) recommendation.
The dexos (TM) specification, with its requirements for improved oil robustness, compliments the
GM Oil Life System by supporting extended oil change intervals over the lifetime of a vehicle.
If all GM customers with GM Oil Life System equipped vehicles would use the system as intended,
GM estimates that more than 100 million gallons of oil could be saved annually.
GM dexos 2(TM) Information Center Website
Refer to the following General Motors website for dexos 2(TM) information about the different
licensed brands that are currently available: http://www.gmdexos.com
GM dexos 2(TM) Engine Oil Trademark and Icons
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - GM dexos 1 and dexos 2(R) Oil Specifications > Page 2452
The dexos (TM) specification and trademarks are exclusive to General Motors, LLC.
Only those oils displaying the dexos (TM) trademark and icon on the front label meet the
demanding performance requirements and stringent quality standards set forth in the dexos
(TM)specification.
Look on the front label for any of the logos shown above to identify an authorized, licensed dexos
2(TM) engine oil.
GM dexos 2(TM) Engine Oil Specification
- dexos 2(TM) is approved and recommended by GM for use in Europe starting in model year 2010
vehicles, regardless of where the vehicle was manufactured.
- dexos 2(TM) is the recommended service fill oil for European gasoline engines.
Important The Duramax(TM) diesel engine is the exception and requires lubricants meeting
specification CJ-4.
- dexos 2(TM) is the recommended service fill oil for European light-duty diesel engines and
replaces GM-LL-B-025 and GM-LL-A-025.
- dexos 2(TM) protects diesel engines from harmful soot deposits and is designed with limits on
certain chemical components to prolong catalyst life and protect expensive emission reduction
systems. It is a robust oil, resisting degradation between oil changes and maintaining optimum
performance longer.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil > Component
Information > Specifications > Capacity Specifications
Engine Oil: Capacity Specifications
Capacity (with filter) .............................................................................................................................
....................................................... 3.78 liters (4 qt)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil > Component
Information > Specifications > Capacity Specifications > Page 2455
Engine Oil: Fluid Type Specifications
Below 60°F (16°C) ...............................................................................................................................
............................................................. SAE 5W-30 Above 0°F (-18°C) .............................................
........................................................................................................................... SAE 10W-30
(Preferred)
Engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engine "Starburst" symbol
of the proper viscosity.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 2456
Engine Oil: Service and Repair
Once the origin of the leak has been pinpointed and traced back to its source, the cause of the leak
must be determined in order for it to be repaired properly. If a gasket is replaced, but the sealing
surface is damaged, the new gasket will not repair the leak, the surface must be repaired or
replaced. Before attempting to repair a leak, be sure that the gasket and sealing surfaces are
correct.
Perform The Following Steps In Order To Check For Gasket Leaks:
1. Inspect the fluid level/pressure is too high. 2. Check the crankcase ventilation system for
restrictions or malfunctioning components. 3. Inspect for improperly tightened fasteners or
dirty/damaged threads. 4. Look for warped flanges or sealing surfaces. 5. Check for scratches,
burrs or other damage to the sealing surface. 6. Look for a damaged or worn gasket. 7. Check for
cracking or porosity of the component 8. Check for use of an improper sealant used (where
applicable).
Perform The Following Steps In Order To Check For Seal Leaks:
1. Inspect the fluid level/pressure is too high. 2. Check the crankcase ventilation system for
restrictions or malfunctioning components. 3. Check for a damaged O-ring seal bore (scratched,
burred or nicked). 4. Look for a damaged or worn oil seal. 5. Check for improper component
installation. 6. Check the component for cracks or damage. 7. Inspect shaft surface for scratches,
nicks or damage. 8. Check for loose or worn bearing which may lead to premature oil seal wear.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Filter, Engine >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Noise/Damage Oil Filter Application Importance
Oil Filter: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Noise/Damage Oil Filter Application Importance
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 07-06-01-016B
Date: July 27, 2009
Subject: Information on Internal Engine Noise or Damage After Oil Filter Replacement
Models:
2010 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3
2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being updated to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 07-06-01-016A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Important Engine damage that is the result of an incorrect or improperly installed engine oil filter is
not a warrantable claim. The best way to avoid oil filter quality concerns is to purchase ACDelco(R)
oil filters directly from GMSPO.
Oil filter misapplication may cause abnormal engine noise or internal damage. Always utilize the
most recent parts information to ensure the correct part number filter is installed when replacing oil
filters. Do not rely on physical dimensions alone. Counterfeit copies of name brand parts have been
discovered in some aftermarket parts systems. Always ensure the parts you install are from a
trusted source. Improper oil filter installation may result in catastrophic engine damage.
Refer to the appropriate Service Information (SI) installation instructions when replacing any oil
filter and pay particular attention to procedures for proper cartridge filter element alignment. If the
diagnostics in SI (Engine Mechanical) lead to the oil filter as the cause of the internal engine noise
or damage, dealers should submit a field product report. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
02-00-89-002I (Information for Dealers on How to Submit a Field Product Report).
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Filter, Engine >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2461
Oil Filter: Specifications
Filter .....................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 13 Nm (115 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Filter Adapter >
Component Information > Specifications
Oil Filter Adapter: Specifications
TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS
Adapter ................................................................................................................................................
........................................... 39 Nm (29 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Filter Adapter >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2465
Oil Filter Adapter: Service and Repair
REMOVAL
1. Raise the vehicle. Support the vehicle.
2. Remove the oil filter. 3. Remove the bolt. 4. Remove the seal. 5. Remove the adapter. 6. Clean
the gasket from the mating surfaces.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the gasket. 2. Install the adapter. 3. Install the seal. 4. Install the bolt. Tighten the bolt to
39 Nm (29 ft. lbs.). 5. Install the oil filter. 6. Lower the vehicle. 7. Inspect the oil level. 8. Fill the oil
to the proper level.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Level Warning Indicator >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Oil Level Warning Indicator: Description and Operation
The Check Oil indicator (amber) will be illuminated when the Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
reads the Oil Level Switch and transmits a Class 2 message to the Body Function Controller (BFC)
indicating there is a Low Oil Level Condition. The Body Function Controller (BFC) will then
command the Check Oil indicator ON over the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) interface to the
Instrument Cluster. If the Low Oil Level option is false all Class 2 activity on the part of the Body
Function Controller (BFC) will stop. The Body Function Controller (BFC) will not send out any
request for the Low Oil Level condition command and will not issue a Low Oil Level condition
report. In the event of a loss of Body Function Controller (BFC) or Powertrain Control Module
(PCM) Class 2 serial data the Check Oil indicator will not illuminate unless the indicator was
illuminated when the event occurred. In the event of an Serial Peripheral interface (SPI) data link
failure, the Check Oil indicator will not illuminate unless the indicator was illuminated prior to the
Serial Peripheral interface (SPI) data link failure.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Level Sensor >
Component Information > Specifications
Oil Level Sensor: Specifications
TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS
Sensor Screw ......................................................................................................................................
............................................ 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Level Sensor >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2472
Rear Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Level Sensor >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2473
Engine Oil Level Switch
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Level Sensor For ECM >
Component Information > Specifications
Oil Level Sensor For ECM: Specifications
Engine Oil Level Switch .......................................................................................................................
............................................. 17-27 Nm (13-20 lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Level Sensor For ECM >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2477
Oil Level Sensor For ECM: Description and Operation
Engine Oil Level Sensor
The PCM monitors the Engine Oil Level Sensor signal at start-up to determine if engine oil level is
OK. If the PCM determines that a low oil level condition exists, the PCM will illuminate the Low Oil
Level indicator lamp.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Level Sensor For ECM >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2478
Oil Level Sensor For ECM: Service and Repair
Engine Oil Level Sensor
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. 2. Drain the engine oil. 3. Disconnect the electrical connector from Engine Oil
Level Switch 4. Remove the Engine Oil Level Switch from the oil pan.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the Engine Oil Level Switch.
Tighten Switch to 17-27 Nm (13-20 lb. ft.).
2. Lower the vehicle. 3. Add the engine oil to the correct level.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pan, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications
Oil Pan: Specifications
TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS
Retaining Bolt ......................................................................................................................................
........................................... 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.) Side Bolt .....................................................................
.................................................................................................................... 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pan, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2482
Oil Pan: Testing and Inspection
PAN INSPECTION
1. Remove the low oil level indicator screw. 2. Remove the low oil indicator. 3. Clean the oil pan
flanges. 4. Clean the oil pan rail. 5. Clean the front cover. 6. Clean the rear main bearing cap. 7.
Clean the threaded holes. 8. Clean the oil pan in solvent. Remove all sludge and varnish from the
oil pan. 9. Clean the gasket surfaces on the oil pan.
10. Inspect the gasket flanges for bending or damage. 11. Inspect the oil pan for cracks or dents.
12. Inspect the oil pan side bolts. Ensure that the rubber gasket on the inside of the bolt head is not
damaged.
13. Install the low oil level indicator. 14. Install the low oil level indicator screw. Tighten the indicator
bolt to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.). 15. Install the oil pan drain plug. Install the oil pan drain plug washer.
Tighten the plug to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pan, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2483
Oil Pan: Service and Repair
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the drive belt. 3. Loosen the upper A/C
compressor bolts, if equipped. Do not remove the bolts. 4. Raise the vehicle. Support the vehicle.
5. Drain the crankcase. 6. Remove the right front tire and wheel assembly. 7. Remove the right
splash shield. See Body and Frame. 8. Remove the right front ABS wheel speed sensor harness
from the right suspension support. 9. Remove the right front ball joint. See Steering and
Suspension.
10. Remove the right side stabilizer link. See Steering and Suspension. 11. Remove the right side
suspension support. See Steering and Suspension.
12. Remove the lower A/C compressor bolts. 13. Position the compressor aside. Support the
compressor. See Heating and Air Conditioning. 14. Remove the engine to transmission brace. See
Transmission and Drivetrain. 15. Remove the oil filter. 16. Remove the starter. See Starting and
Charging. 17. Remove the flywheel inspection cover.
18. Remove the oil pan side bolts. 19. Remove the oil pan bolts. 20. Remove the oil pan. 21.
Remove the oil pan gasket. 22. Clean the following items.
^ Oil pan flanges
^ Oil pan rail
^ Front cover
^ Rear main bearing cap
^ Threaded holes
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pan, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2484
INSTALLATION
1. Install a new gasket. Place sealant on the oil pan gasket tabs if you are installing the rear main
bearing cap. Place the sealer on the tabs that insert
into the gasket groove of the outer surface on the main bearing cap. Use GM sealant P/N 1052080
or its equivalent.
2. Install the oil pan. 3. Install the oil pan retaining bolts. Tighten the retaining bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft.
lbs.). 4. Install the oil pan side bolts. Tighten the side bolts to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.). 5. Install the
transmission converter cover. 6. Install the starter. See Starting and Charging. 7. Install the oil filter.
8. Install the engine to transmission brace. See Transmission and Drivetrain. 9. Loosely assemble
the A/C compressor spacer and the upper bolts. Secure the spacer and the bolts in place.
10. Install the A/C compressor to the engine. See Heating and Air Conditioning. 11. Install the right
side suspension support. See Steering and Suspension. 12. Install the right side stabilizer bar. See
Steering and Suspension. 13. Install the right side bail joint. See Steering and Suspension. 14.
Connect the right front ABS wheel speed sensor harness. 15. Install the right splash shield. See
Body and Frame. 16. Install the right front tire and wheel assembly. 17. Lower the vehicle. 18.
Install the drive belt. 19. Fill the crankcase. 20. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Locations
Front Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Page 2488
Engine Oil Pressure Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Switch (For
Fuel Pump) > Component Information > Description and Operation
Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The fuel pump and engine oil pressure indicator switch has two functions, to indicate low engine oil
pressure and to supply battery voltage to the fuel pump in the event the fuel pump relay fails.
OPERATION
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) checks the engine oil pressure continuously. If the oil
pressure switch indicates low oil pressure at any time, the PCM will send information through serial
data to the instrument cluster to turn "ON" the "Low Oil Pressure" telltale.
The oil pressure portion of the switch has normally closed contacts that open on an increasing oil
pressure of 41 kPa (6 psi) or less, and close on a decreasing pressure of 14 (2 psi). When the
switch is closed, the oil pressure signal is sent to the PCM, which in turn sends the information to
the instrument cluster through serial data. The oil pressure lamp on the instrument cluster is then
illuminated.
The fuel pump portion of the switch has a normally open contact that closes when increasing oil
pressure of 41 kPa (6 psi) or less, and opens when decreasing pressure of 14 (2 psi). In the event
the fuel pump relay fails, battery voltage is supplied to the fuel pump through the closed contacts
from the switch.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Switch (For
Fuel Pump) > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 2492
Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Service and Repair
Engine Oil Pressure Switch
Removal Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise the vehicle. 3. Disconnect the electrical
connector from the engine oil pressure sensor. 4. Remove the engine oil pressure sensor.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the engine oil pressure sensor. 2. Tighten the oil pressure sensor to 16 Nm. 3. Connect
the electrical connector to the engine oil pressure sensor. 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Reconnect the
negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Description and Operation
Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator: Description and Operation
The Oil Pressure indicator (red) will be illuminated when the Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
transmits a Class 2 message to the Body Function Controller (BFC) indicating there is a Low Oil
Pressure condition. The Body Function Controller (BFC) will then command the Oil Pressure
indicator ON over the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) interface to the Instrument Cluster. In the
event of a loss of Class 2 serial data the Oil Pressure indicator will not illuminate unless the
indicator was illuminated when the event occurred. That is the indicator will remain in its current
state for the ignition cycle when the loss occurred. In the event of an Serial Peripheral Interface
(SPI) data link failure the Oil Pressure indicator will not illuminate unless the indicator was
illuminated prior to the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) data link failure.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pump, Engine > Engine
Oil Pressure > Component Information > Specifications
Engine Oil Pressure: Specifications
Oil Pressure .........................................................................................................................................
.................................. 103 kPa (15 psi at 1100 RPM)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Intake Manifold Inspection/Replacement
Intake Manifold: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Intake Manifold Inspection/Replacement
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-06-01-026C
Date: February 03, 2010
Subject: Intake Manifold Inspection/Replacement After Severe Internal Engine Damage
Models:
2010 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3
2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to include additional model years. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 00-06-01-026B (Section 06 - Engine).
When replacing an engine due to internal damage, extreme care should be taken when transferring
the intake manifold to the new Goodwrench service engine long block. Internal damage may result
in the potential discharge of internal engine component debris in the intake manifold via broken
pistons and/or bent, broken, or missing intake valves. After removing the intake manifold from the
engine, the technician should carefully inspect all of the cylinder head intake ports to see if the
valve heads are still present and not bent. Usually when the valve heads are missing or sufficiently
bent, internal engine component debris will be present to varying degrees in the intake port of the
cylinder head. If this debris is present in any of the cylinder head intake ports, the intake manifold
should be replaced. This replacement is required due to the complex inlet runner and plenum
configuration of most of the intake manifolds, making thorough and complete component cleaning
difficult and nearly impossible to verify complete removal of debris. Re-installation of an intake
manifold removed from an engine with deposits of internal engine component debris may result in
the ingestion of any remaining debris into the new Goodwrench service engine. This may cause
damage or potential failure of the new service engine.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Intake Manifold Inspection/Replacement > Page 2504
Intake Manifold: Technical Service Bulletins Intake Manifold (Lower) - Revised Installation
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 02-06-01-014
Date: April, 2002
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Revised Lower Intake Manifold Installation
Models: 1996 Buick Regal 1996-1998 Buick Skylark 1996-2002 Buick Century 2002 Buick
Rendezvous 1996 Chevrolet Beretta, Corsica, Lumina APV 1996-2001 Chevrolet Lumina
1997-2002 Chevrolet Malibu, Monte Carlo, Venture 2000-2002 Chevrolet Impala 1996-1998
Oldsmobile Achieva 1997-1998 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1996-2002 Oldsmobile Silhouette 1999-2002
Oldsmobile Alero 1996-1998 Pontiac TransSport 1996-2002 Pontiac Grand Am, Grand Prix
1999-2002 Pontiac Montana 2001-2002 Pontiac Aztek with 3.1L or 3.4L Engine (VINs J, M, E RPOs LG8, L82, LA1)
This bulletin is being issued to revise Steps 1 and 2 of the Lower Intake Manifold Installation
procedure in the Engine Mechanical sub-section of the Service Manual. Please replace the current
information in the Service Manual with the following information.
The following information has been updated within SI2000. If you are using a paper version of this
Service Manual, please make a reference to this bulletin on the affected page.
Intake Manifold Installation - Lower
Important:
All gasket mating surfaces need to be free of oil and foreign material. Use GM P/N 12346139 (in
Canada, use GM P/N 10953463) or the equivalent to clean surfaces.
1. Install the intake manifold gaskets.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Intake Manifold Inspection/Replacement > Page 2505
2. Apply small drops (8-10 mm [0.31-0.39 in]) of RTV sealer, GM P/N 12346286 (in Canada, use
GM P/N 10953476) or the equivalent to the four corners of the intake manifold to block joint (1).
3. Connect the small drops with a bead of RTV sealer that is between 8-10 mm (0.31-0.39 in) wide
and 3.0-5.0 mm (0.12-0.20 in) thick (2).
The remaining steps on the original bulletin remain unchanged.
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Specifications > Intake Manifold Torque
Intake Manifold: Specifications Intake Manifold Torque
TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS
Upper Bolts ..........................................................................................................................................
................................................. 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
Notice: The OEM service manual does not provide a torque sequence for the upper intake
manifolds.
Lower Bolts
1. Tighten lower intake manifold center bolts in sequence to 7 Nm (62 lb in) on first pass. 2. Tighten
lower intake manifold center bolts in sequence to 13 Nm (115 lb in) on final pass. 3. Tighten lower
intake manifold diagonal bolts in sequence to 13 Nm (115 lb in) on first pass. 4. Tighten lower
intake manifold diagonal bolts in sequence to 25 Nm (18 lb ft) on final pass.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Specifications > Intake Manifold Torque > Page 2508
Intake Manifold: Specifications Revised Installation
This article has been updated with bulletin No.: 02-06-01-014.
REVISED LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLD INSTALLATION
Vehicles with 3.1L or 3.4L Engine (VINs J, M, E - RPOs LG8, L82, LA1).
IMPORTANT: All gasket mating surfaces need to be free of oil and foreign material. Use GM P/N
12346139 (in Canada, use GM P/N 10953463) or the equivalent to clean surfaces.
1. Install the intake manifold gaskets.
2. Apply small drops (8-10 mm [0.31-0.39 in]) of RTV sealer, GM P/N 12346286 (in Canada, use
GM P/N 10953476) or the equivalent to the four
corners of the intake manifold to block joint (1).
3. Connect the small drops with a bead of RTV sealer that is between 8-10 mm (0.31 - 0.39 in)
wide and 3.0 - 5.0 mm (0.12 - 0.20 in) thick (2).
Notice: The OEM service manual does not provide a torque sequence for the upper or lower intake
manifolds.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Specifications > Intake Manifold Torque > Page 2509
Intake Manifold: Specifications Throttle Body Torque & Sequence
Throttle Body Bolt/Stud ........................................................................................................................
................................................... 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Diagrams > Upper
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Diagrams > Upper > Page 2512
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 2513
Intake Manifold: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The intake manifold is a two-piece cast aluminum unit. It centrally supports a fuel rail with six fuel
injectors.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > Upper
Intake Manifold: Testing and Inspection Upper
1. Remove the accelerator control cable bracket bolts. 2. Remove the accelerator control cable
bracket. 3. Remove the throttle body bolts. 4. Remove the throttle body.
5. Remove the throttle body gasket.
6. Remove the EGR bolts. 7. Remove the EGR tube assembly. 8. Remove the EGR gaskets. 9.
Remove the EGR.
10. Clean the gasket surfaces. 11. Clean the manifold bolts. 12. Clean the manifold studs. 13.
Install the EGR. 14. Install the EGR gaskets. 15. Install the EGR tube assembly. 16. Install the
EGR bolts. 17. Install the throttle body gasket. 18. Install the throttle body. 19. Install the throttle
body bolts. 20. Install the accelerator control cable bracket. 21. Install the accelerator control cable
bracket bolts.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > Upper > Page 2516
Intake Manifold: Testing and Inspection Lower
1. Clean the lower intake manifold gasket surfaces. 2. Clean the injector bores. 3. Clean the
injector nozzles. 4. Clean the lower intake manifold bolts and studs.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Revised Installation
Intake Manifold: Service and Repair Revised Installation
This article has been updated with bulletin No.: 02-06-01-014.
REVISED LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLD INSTALLATION
Vehicles with 3.1L or 3.4L Engine (VINs J, M, E - RPOs LG8, L82, LA1).
IMPORTANT: All gasket mating surfaces need to be free of oil and foreign material. Use GM P/N
12346139 (in Canada, use GM P/N 10953463) or the equivalent to clean surfaces.
1. Install the intake manifold gaskets.
2. Apply small drops (8-10 mm [0.31-0.39 in]) of RTV sealer, GM P/N 12346286 (in Canada, use
GM P/N 10953476) or the equivalent to the four
corners of the intake manifold to block joint (1).
3. Connect the small drops with a bead of RTV sealer that is between 8-10 mm (0.31 - 0.39 in)
wide and 3.0 - 5.0 mm (0.12 - 0.20 in) thick (2).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Revised Installation > Page 2519
Intake Manifold: Service and Repair Intake Manifold Replacement (Engine Overhaul)
DISASSEMBLE
1. Remove the coolant outlet assembly bolts. 2. Remove the coolant outlet assembly.
3. Remove the thermostat. 4. Remove the heater inlet pipe nipple.
5. Remove the engine coolant temperature sensor.
6. Remove the intake manifold coolant pipe retaining screw. 7. Carefully pry out the intake manifold
coolant pipe from the lower intake manifold.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Revised Installation > Page 2520
8. Discard the intake manifold coolant pipe.
ASSEMBLE
1. Apply sealant GM P/N 12345493 to the end of a new intake manifold coolant pipe. 2. Install the
intake manifold coolant pipe using the Intake Manifold Coolant Pipe Installer. 3. Lightly tap the
intake manifold coolant pipe into the bore of the lower intake manifold. 4. Apply sealer GM P/N
1052080 to the threads of the engine coolant temperature sensor. 5. Install the engine coolant
temperature sensor. Tighten the engine coolant temperature sensor to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.). See
Cooling System. 6. Apply sealer GM P/N 1052080 to the threads of the heater inlet pipe nipple. 7.
Install the heater inlet pipe nipple. Tighten the heater inlet pipe nipple to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.). 8.
Install the thermostat. See Cooling System. 9. Install the coolant outlet.
10. Install the coolant outlet assembly bolts. Tighten the coolant outlet assembly bolts to 25 Nm (18
ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Revised Installation > Page 2521
Intake Manifold: Service and Repair Upper Intake Manifold Replacement
TOOL REQUIRED
^ J28467-360 Engine Support Fixture
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Depressurize the fuel system. See Fuel Pressure
Release Procedure. 3. Remove the top half of the air cleaner assembly. 4. Drain and recover the
cooling system. See Cooling System.
5. Remove the EGR pipe from the exhaust manifold. See Exhaust System. 6. Remove the drive
belt. 7. Remove the brake vacuum pipe at the plenum. 8. Remove the power steering lines at the
generator bracket. 9. Remove the generator. See Starting and Charging.
10. Remove the secondary ignition wires from the spark plugs. 11. Remove the secondary ignition
wires from the harness at the plenum. 12. Remove the following components at the same time:
^ Electronic ignition coil and module assembly
^ EVAP canister purge solenoid
13. Remove the following upper engine wiring connectors:
^ Throttle Position (TP) sensor
^ IAC sensor
^ Injector harness
^ Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor
^ MAP sensor
^ Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor
14. Remove the following vacuum lines:
^ Vacuum Modulator
^ Fuel Pressure Regulator
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Revised Installation > Page 2522
^ PCV
15. Remove the MAP sensor from the upper intake manifold.
16. Remove the upper intake manifold bolts. 17. Remove the upper intake manifold.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the upper intake manifold.
Notice: The OEM service manual does not provide a torque sequence for the upper intake
manifold.
2. Install the upper intake manifold bolts. Tighten the bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.). 3. Install the MAP
sensor. 4. Connect the following vacuum lines:
^ Vacuum Modulator
^ Fuel Pressure Regulator
^ PCV
5. Install the following upper engine wiring connectors:
^ TP sensor
^ IAC
^ Injector harness
^ ECT sensor
^ MAP sensor
^ CMP sensor
6. Install the following components:
^ EVAP canister purge solenoid
^ Electronic ignition coil and module assembly
7. Install the generator. See Starting and Charging. 8. Install the power steering line at the
generator bracket. 9. Install the drive belt.
10. Install the secondary ignition wires to the spark plugs. 11. Install the secondary ignition wires to
the harness at the plenum. 12. Install the EGR pipe to the exhaust manifold. 13. Install the
following items to the throttle body:
^ Throttle body cable
^ Cruise control cable
14. Install the top half of the air cleaner assembly. 15. Install the brake vacuum pipe. 16. Install the
cables to the throttle body. 17. Fill the cooling system. See Cooling System. 18. Connect the
negative battery cable. 19. Inspect for proper fluid levels. 20. Check for leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Revised Installation > Page 2523
Intake Manifold: Service and Repair Lower Intake Manifold Replacement
TOOL REQUIRED
^ J 28467-360 Engine Support Fixture
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Depressurize the fuel system. See Fuel Pressure
Release Procedure. 3. Remove the top half of the air cleaner assembly. 4. Drain and recover the
cooling system. See Cooling System.
5. Remove the EGR pipe from the exhaust manifold. 6. Remove the drive belt. 7. Remove the
brake vacuum pipe at the plenum. 8. Remove the power steering lines at the generator bracket. 9.
Remove the generator. See Starting and Charging.
10. Remove the secondary ignition wires from the spark plugs. 11. Remove the secondary ignition
wires from the harness at the plenum. 12. Remove the following components at the same time:
^ Electronic ignition coil and module assembly
^ EVAP canister purge solenoid
13. Remove the following upper engine wiring connectors:
^ Throttle Position (TP) sensor
^ IAC sensor
^ Injector harness
^ Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor
^ MAP sensor
^ Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor
14. Remove the following vacuum lines:
^ Vacuum Modulator
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Revised Installation > Page 2524
^ Fuel Pressure Regulator
^ PCV
15. Remove the, MAP sensor from the upper intake manifold.
16. Remove the upper intake manifold bolts. 17. Remove the upper intake manifold.
18. Remove the fuel lines at the fuel rail and the bracket. 19. Install the Engine Support Fixture. 20.
Remove the engine mount assembly. 21. Remove the power steering mounting bolts. Support the
pump aside. See Steering and Suspension. 22. Remove the coolant inlet pipe from the coolant
outlet housing. See Cooling System. 23. Remove the coolant by-pass at the coolant pump and the
cylinder head. See Cooling System. 24. Remove the radiator hose at the coolant outlet housing.
25. Remove the coolant outlet housing. See Cooling System. 26. Remove both of the valve rocker
covers.
NOTE: Retain the washers in the same orientation on the center bolts.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Revised Installation > Page 2525
27. Remove the lower intake manifold bolts. 28. Remove the lower intake manifold.
29. Loosen the rocker arms. Important: Keep the pushrods in order. The pushrods must be
installed in the original position. 30. Remove the pushrods. 31. Remove the intake gasket. 32.
Inspect the flatness of the inlet flanges. 33. Clean the following items:
^ Gasket material from the mating surfaces
^ Excess RTV sealant from the front and the rear ridges of the cylinder
^ Block
^ Sealing surfaces with degreaser
INSTALLATION
1. Place a 2-3 mm bead of GM RTV sealer P/N 1052917, or equivalent on each ridge where the
front and the rear of the intake manifold contact the
block.
2. Install the intake manifold gasket. 3. Install the rocker arm bolts. Tighten the bolts to 14 Nm (124
inch lbs.) + 30°.
4. Install the pushrods.
a. Install the pushrods in their original location. b. Coat the ends of the pushrods with prelube GM
P/N 1052356, or equivalent. c. Intake pushrods are marked yellow and are 5 3t4 in long. d. Exhaust
pushrods are marked green and are 6 in long. e. Ensure that the pushrods seat in the lifter.
5. Install the lower intake manifold. 6. Install the lower intake manifold bolts. Apply sealant GM P/N
12345739 to the threads of the bolts.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Revised Installation > Page 2526
1. Tighten lower intake manifold center bolts in sequence to 7 Nm (62 lb in) on first pass. 2. Tighten
lower intake manifold center bolts in sequence to 13 Nm (115 lb in) on final pass. 3. Tighten lower
intake manifold diagonal bolts in sequence to 13 Nm (115 lb in) on first pass. 4. Tighten lower
intake manifold diagonal bolts in sequence to 25 Nm (18 lb ft) on final pass.
7. Install the front valve rocker cover. 8. Install the coolant outlet housing. See Cooling System. 9.
Install the radiator hose to the thermostat housing.
10. Install the coolant inlet pipe to the thermostat housing. 11. Install the coolant by-pass pipe- at
the coolant pump and the cylinder head. See Cooling System. 12. Install the power steering pump.
See Steering and Suspension. 13. Loosely, install the drive belt. 14. Install the engine mount
assembly. 15. Remove the engine support fixture. 16. Install the fuel lines to the fuel rail and the
bracket. 17. Install the upper intake manifold. 18. Install the upper intake manifold bolts. Tighten the
bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Notice: The OEM service manual does not provide a torque sequence for the upper intake
manifolds.
19. Install the MAP sensor. 20. Connect the following vacuum lines:
^ Vacuum Modulator
^ Fuel Pressure Regulator
^ PCV
21. Install the following upper engine wiring connectors:
^ TP sensor
^ IAC
^ Injector harness
^ ECT sensor
^ MAP sensor
^ CMP sensor
22. Install the following components:
^ EVAP canister purge solenoid
^ Electronic ignition coil and module assembly
23. Install the generator. See Starting and Charging. 24. Install the power steering line at the
generator bracket. 25. Install the drive belt. 26. Install the secondary ignition wires to the spark
plugs. 27. Install the secondary ignition wires to the harness at the plenum. 28. Install the EGR pipe
to the exhaust manifold. 29. Install the following items to the throttle body:
^ Throttle body cable
^ Cruise control cable
30. Install the top half of the air cleaner assembly. 31. Install the brake vacuum pipe. 32. Install the
cables to the throttle body. 33. Fill the cooling system. See Cooling System.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Revised Installation > Page 2527
34. Connect the negative battery cable. 35. Inspect for proper fluid levels. 36. Check for leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Level
Warning Indicator > Component Information > Description and Operation
Oil Level Warning Indicator: Description and Operation
The Check Oil indicator (amber) will be illuminated when the Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
reads the Oil Level Switch and transmits a Class 2 message to the Body Function Controller (BFC)
indicating there is a Low Oil Level Condition. The Body Function Controller (BFC) will then
command the Check Oil indicator ON over the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) interface to the
Instrument Cluster. If the Low Oil Level option is false all Class 2 activity on the part of the Body
Function Controller (BFC) will stop. The Body Function Controller (BFC) will not send out any
request for the Low Oil Level condition command and will not issue a Low Oil Level condition
report. In the event of a loss of Body Function Controller (BFC) or Powertrain Control Module
(PCM) Class 2 serial data the Check Oil indicator will not illuminate unless the indicator was
illuminated when the event occurred. In the event of an Serial Peripheral interface (SPI) data link
failure, the Check Oil indicator will not illuminate unless the indicator was illuminated prior to the
Serial Peripheral interface (SPI) data link failure.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Description and Operation
Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator: Description and Operation
The Oil Pressure indicator (red) will be illuminated when the Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
transmits a Class 2 message to the Body Function Controller (BFC) indicating there is a Low Oil
Pressure condition. The Body Function Controller (BFC) will then command the Oil Pressure
indicator ON over the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) interface to the Instrument Cluster. In the
event of a loss of Class 2 serial data the Oil Pressure indicator will not illuminate unless the
indicator was illuminated when the event occurred. That is the indicator will remain in its current
state for the ignition cycle when the loss occurred. In the event of an Serial Peripheral Interface
(SPI) data link failure the Oil Pressure indicator will not illuminate unless the indicator was
illuminated prior to the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) data link failure.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Crankshaft Main Bearing Seal:
> 05-06-01-019F > Oct > 07 > Engine - Oil Leaks from Crankshaft Rear Main Seal
Crankshaft Main Bearing Seal: Customer Interest Engine - Oil Leaks from Crankshaft Rear Main
Seal
Bulletin No.: 05-06-01-019F
Date: October 02, 2007
TECHNICAL
Subject: Engine Oil Leak at Crankshaft Rear Main Oil Seal (Install Revised Crankshaft Rear Main
Oil Seal Using Revised Rear Main Seal Installer and Remover Tools)
Models: 1986-2008 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)
with 2.8L, 3.1L, 3.4L, 3.5L, 3.9L 60 Degree V6 Engine (VINs D, E, F, J, K, L, M, N, R, S, T, V, W,
X, Z, 1, 3, 8, 9, W, R - RPOs LG6, LA1, LNJ, LG8, LL1 or LX9, L82, LL2, LB8, LHO, LG5, LB6, LE2
or LQ1, LH7, LC1, L44, LZ4, LZE, LZ9, LGD, LZ8, LZG)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add an Important statement on proper seal installation. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-06-01-019E (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
This bulletin only applies to 60 degree V6 engines. Some of the discontinued 60 degree V6 engine
VINs and RPOs may have carried over to other new model year engines and may no longer be a
60 degree V6 engine. So this bulletin may not apply. It is very important to verify that the following
information is correct before using this bulletin:
Year of vehicle (e.g. N = 1992)
V6 Engine Liter size (e.g. 3.4L)
VIN CODE (e.g. X)
RPO (e.g. LQ1)
If ALL the information from the vehicle (year, size, VIN Code, RPO) you're working on can be found
under the models listed above, then this bulletin applies to that engine. If one or more of the
vehicle's information can NOT be found under the models listed above, then this bulletin does NOT
apply.
This bulletin does not apply to 2004-2007 Saturn VUE models with 3.5L DOHC V6 Engine (VIN 4 RPO L66) or 2005-2008 Cadillac CTS with 2.8L HFV6 Engine (VIN T - RPO LP1).
Condition
Some customers may comment on external oil leakage.
Correction
Before replacement of the new design crankshaft rear main oil seal, be sure the PCV system is
operating correctly. The new seal described below comes with a protective nylon sleeve already
installed in the seal. This sleeve assures that the seal is installed in the correct direction and also
protects the seal from getting damaged during installation. Do not remove the protective sleeve
from the seal; if removed, the installation tool (EN48108) will not work.
A new design crankshaft rear main oil seal and installation tool (EN-48108) has been released.
This seal incorporates features that improve high mileage durability. Replace the crankshaft rear
main oil seal with the new design rear main oil seal, P/N 12592195, using the following service
procedures.
Tools Required
TOOLS WERE SHIPPED TO YOUR DEALERSHIPS. IF YOU HAVE NOT RECEIVED THEM OR
THEY ARE LOST, PLEASE CALL GM SPECIAL SERVICE TOOLS AT 1-800-GM-TOOLS.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Crankshaft Main Bearing Seal:
> 05-06-01-019F > Oct > 07 > Engine - Oil Leaks from Crankshaft Rear Main Seal > Page 2544
EN-48108 Rear Main Oil Seal Installation Tool
This tool has a unique design to allow the technician to easily install the rear main seal squarely to
the correct depth and direction. Before proceeding with installation, review the above illustration to
become familiar with the components shown in the illustration.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Crankshaft Main Bearing Seal:
> 05-06-01-019F > Oct > 07 > Engine - Oil Leaks from Crankshaft Rear Main Seal > Page 2545
EN-48672 rear Main Oil Seal Remover Tool
This tool has a unique design to allow the technician to easily remove the rear main seal without
nicking the crankshaft sealing surface when removing the seal. Before proceeding with removal,
review the above illustration to become familiar with the following components:
Removal Plate
Threaded Adjustment Pins and Jam Nuts
Force Screw
# 2 Self Drill Screws 38 mm (1.5 in) long 8 needed
Extreme Pressure Lubricant
Removal Procedure
Remove the transmission. Refer to Transmission Replacement in SI or the appropriate Service
Manual.
Remove the engine flywheel. Refer to Engine Flywheel Replacement in SI or the appropriate
Service Manual.
Install the removal plate (2) and both threaded adjustment pins and jam nuts (1) into the back of
the crankshaft flange and secure the plate with adjustment pins and jam nuts.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Crankshaft Main Bearing Seal:
> 05-06-01-019F > Oct > 07 > Engine - Oil Leaks from Crankshaft Rear Main Seal > Page 2546
Install # 2 Self Drill Screws 38 mm (1.5 in) long, eight needed, (1) and tighten down flush to the
plate.
Before installing the force screw, apply a small amount of the Extreme Pressure Lubricant J
23444-A, provided in the tool kit.
Install the force screw (1) and back off both jam nuts (2) and continue to turn the force screw (1)
into the removal plate to remove the seal from the crankshaft.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Crankshaft Main Bearing Seal:
> 05-06-01-019F > Oct > 07 > Engine - Oil Leaks from Crankshaft Rear Main Seal > Page 2547
Once the seal is removed from the crankshaft, remove and save all eight screws and discard the
old seal.
Clean the crankshaft sealing surface with a clean, lint free towel. Inspect the lead-in edge of the
crankshaft for burrs or sharp edges that could damage the rear main oil seal. Remove any burrs or
sharp edges with crocus cloth or equivalent before proceeding.
Installation Procedure
Do not remove the protective nylon sleeve from the new rear main seal prior to installation. The
EN-48108 is designed to install the rear main seal with the protective sleeve in place. Never apply
or use any oil, lubricants or sealing compounds on the crankshaft rear main oil seal.
Align the mandrel dowel pin (EN-48108) to the dowel pin hole in the crankshaft. Refer to the above
illustration.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Crankshaft Main Bearing Seal:
> 05-06-01-019F > Oct > 07 > Engine - Oil Leaks from Crankshaft Rear Main Seal > Page 2548
Using a large flat-bladed screwdriver, tighten the two mandrel screws to the crankshaft. Ensure that
the mandrel is snug to the crankshaft hub. Refer to the above illustration.
Different types (styles) of rear main seals were used in production in different model years, engines
and manufacturing facilities. As a result, the NEW style rear main seal that you will be installing
may have a different appearance or shape than the one removed. Regardless of what type of seal
was removed and what side was facing outside the engine, the new seal must be installed as
described. Upon close inspection of the outer lip on the new seal, the words this side out" will be
seen. This side of the seal must be facing OUTSIDE the engine when correctly installed. While this
may seem backwards, it is correct. In addition, the protective nylon (plastic) sleeve that the seal is
mounted on in the package was designed so that the seal can only be installed in the proper
direction when using the installation tool described in the following steps.
Install the rear main seal (1), with the protective nylon sleeve attached (2), onto the mandrel. The
seal, if properly installed, will center on a step that protrudes from the center of the mandrel. As an
error proof, seal will fit only one way onto the mandrel. Refer to the above illustration.
Before installing the outer drive drum, bearing, washer and the drive nut onto the threaded shaft,
apply a small amount of the Extreme Pressure Lubricant J 23444-A, provided in the tool kit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Crankshaft Main Bearing Seal:
> 05-06-01-019F > Oct > 07 > Engine - Oil Leaks from Crankshaft Rear Main Seal > Page 2549
Install the outer drive drum onto the mandrel (EN-481 08). Install the bearing, washer and the drive
nut onto the threaded shaft. Refer to the above illustration.
Using a wrench, turn the drive nut on the mandrel (EN-48108), which will push the seal into the
engine block bore. Turn the wrench until the drive drum is snug and flush against the engine block.
Refer to the above illustration.
Loosen and remove the drive nut, washer, bearing and drive drum. Discard the protective nylon
sleeve.
Verify that the seal has seated properly.
Use a flat-bladed screwdriver to remove the two attachment screws from the mandrel and remove
the mandrel from the crankshaft hub. Refer to the above illustration.
Install the engine flywheel. Refer to Engine Flywheel Replacement in SI or the appropriate Service
Manual.
Install the transmission. Refer to Transmission Replacement in SI or the appropriate Service
Manual.
Inspect for proper fluid levels.
Inspect for leaks.
Parts Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Crankshaft Main Bearing Seal:
> 05-06-01-019F > Oct > 07 > Engine - Oil Leaks from Crankshaft Rear Main Seal > Page 2550
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Crankshaft Main Bearing Seal:
> 87-60-02A > Jul > 98 > Engine - Oil Odors
Crankshaft Main Bearing Seal: Customer Interest Engine - Oil Odors
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 87-60-02A
Date: July, 1998
Subject: Engine Oil Odor (Replace Rear Main Bearing Seal)
Models: 1990-96 Buick Regal 1994-97 Buick Skylark 1994-98 Buick Century 1990-94 Chevrolet
Cavalier 1990-95 Chevrolet Camaro 1990-96 Chevrolet Beretta, Corsica, APV 1990-98 Chevrolet
Lumina 1995-98 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1997-98 Chevrolet Malibu, Venture 1990-97 Oldsmobile
Cutlass Supreme 1990-98 Oldsmobile Silhouette 1994-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1994-97
Oldsmobile Achieva 1997-98 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1990-94 Pontiac Sunbird 1990-95 Pontiac
Firebird 1990-98 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport 1994-98 Pontiac Grand Am with 3.1L, 3100,
3.4L, 3400 Engines (VINs T, D, X, M, E, S - RPOs LH0, LG6, L01, L82, LA1, L32)
This bulletin is being revised to correct the model usage and part number. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 87-60-02 (Section 6 - Engine).
Condition
Some of the above listed V6 engines may, on a very infrequent basis, have an oil odor condition
that is generally encountered after the engine's oil has been changed. Typically the odor lasts
approximately 1000 miles after the change of oil and then does not reappear until the next change
of oil.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a reaction taking place between the engine oil additive package
and the grease used on the engine's crankshaft rear main oil seal.
Correction
Verify that the engine does not have any external oil leaks. This can be accomplished by using the
methods outlined in the appropriate Service Manual.
If normal diagnostics are unable to establish the source of the oil odor, replace the crankshaft rear
main oil seal. Before installing the seal, remove the grease from the seal and lightly coat the lip
area of the seal with clean engine oil.
Parts Information
P/N Description Qty
14085829 Crankshaft, rear main bearing seal 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Crankshaft Main Bearing Seal:
> 87-60-02A > Jul > 98 > Engine - Oil Odors > Page 2555
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
J1120 Seal, Crankshaft Use published labor operation time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal: > 05-06-01-019F > Oct > 07 > Engine - Oil Leaks from Crankshaft Rear Main Seal
Crankshaft Main Bearing Seal: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Oil Leaks from Crankshaft
Rear Main Seal
Bulletin No.: 05-06-01-019F
Date: October 02, 2007
TECHNICAL
Subject: Engine Oil Leak at Crankshaft Rear Main Oil Seal (Install Revised Crankshaft Rear Main
Oil Seal Using Revised Rear Main Seal Installer and Remover Tools)
Models: 1986-2008 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)
with 2.8L, 3.1L, 3.4L, 3.5L, 3.9L 60 Degree V6 Engine (VINs D, E, F, J, K, L, M, N, R, S, T, V, W,
X, Z, 1, 3, 8, 9, W, R - RPOs LG6, LA1, LNJ, LG8, LL1 or LX9, L82, LL2, LB8, LHO, LG5, LB6, LE2
or LQ1, LH7, LC1, L44, LZ4, LZE, LZ9, LGD, LZ8, LZG)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add an Important statement on proper seal installation. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-06-01-019E (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
This bulletin only applies to 60 degree V6 engines. Some of the discontinued 60 degree V6 engine
VINs and RPOs may have carried over to other new model year engines and may no longer be a
60 degree V6 engine. So this bulletin may not apply. It is very important to verify that the following
information is correct before using this bulletin:
Year of vehicle (e.g. N = 1992)
V6 Engine Liter size (e.g. 3.4L)
VIN CODE (e.g. X)
RPO (e.g. LQ1)
If ALL the information from the vehicle (year, size, VIN Code, RPO) you're working on can be found
under the models listed above, then this bulletin applies to that engine. If one or more of the
vehicle's information can NOT be found under the models listed above, then this bulletin does NOT
apply.
This bulletin does not apply to 2004-2007 Saturn VUE models with 3.5L DOHC V6 Engine (VIN 4 RPO L66) or 2005-2008 Cadillac CTS with 2.8L HFV6 Engine (VIN T - RPO LP1).
Condition
Some customers may comment on external oil leakage.
Correction
Before replacement of the new design crankshaft rear main oil seal, be sure the PCV system is
operating correctly. The new seal described below comes with a protective nylon sleeve already
installed in the seal. This sleeve assures that the seal is installed in the correct direction and also
protects the seal from getting damaged during installation. Do not remove the protective sleeve
from the seal; if removed, the installation tool (EN48108) will not work.
A new design crankshaft rear main oil seal and installation tool (EN-48108) has been released.
This seal incorporates features that improve high mileage durability. Replace the crankshaft rear
main oil seal with the new design rear main oil seal, P/N 12592195, using the following service
procedures.
Tools Required
TOOLS WERE SHIPPED TO YOUR DEALERSHIPS. IF YOU HAVE NOT RECEIVED THEM OR
THEY ARE LOST, PLEASE CALL GM SPECIAL SERVICE TOOLS AT 1-800-GM-TOOLS.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal: > 05-06-01-019F > Oct > 07 > Engine - Oil Leaks from Crankshaft Rear Main Seal > Page 2561
EN-48108 Rear Main Oil Seal Installation Tool
This tool has a unique design to allow the technician to easily install the rear main seal squarely to
the correct depth and direction. Before proceeding with installation, review the above illustration to
become familiar with the components shown in the illustration.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal: > 05-06-01-019F > Oct > 07 > Engine - Oil Leaks from Crankshaft Rear Main Seal > Page 2562
EN-48672 rear Main Oil Seal Remover Tool
This tool has a unique design to allow the technician to easily remove the rear main seal without
nicking the crankshaft sealing surface when removing the seal. Before proceeding with removal,
review the above illustration to become familiar with the following components:
Removal Plate
Threaded Adjustment Pins and Jam Nuts
Force Screw
# 2 Self Drill Screws 38 mm (1.5 in) long 8 needed
Extreme Pressure Lubricant
Removal Procedure
Remove the transmission. Refer to Transmission Replacement in SI or the appropriate Service
Manual.
Remove the engine flywheel. Refer to Engine Flywheel Replacement in SI or the appropriate
Service Manual.
Install the removal plate (2) and both threaded adjustment pins and jam nuts (1) into the back of
the crankshaft flange and secure the plate with adjustment pins and jam nuts.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal: > 05-06-01-019F > Oct > 07 > Engine - Oil Leaks from Crankshaft Rear Main Seal > Page 2563
Install # 2 Self Drill Screws 38 mm (1.5 in) long, eight needed, (1) and tighten down flush to the
plate.
Before installing the force screw, apply a small amount of the Extreme Pressure Lubricant J
23444-A, provided in the tool kit.
Install the force screw (1) and back off both jam nuts (2) and continue to turn the force screw (1)
into the removal plate to remove the seal from the crankshaft.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal: > 05-06-01-019F > Oct > 07 > Engine - Oil Leaks from Crankshaft Rear Main Seal > Page 2564
Once the seal is removed from the crankshaft, remove and save all eight screws and discard the
old seal.
Clean the crankshaft sealing surface with a clean, lint free towel. Inspect the lead-in edge of the
crankshaft for burrs or sharp edges that could damage the rear main oil seal. Remove any burrs or
sharp edges with crocus cloth or equivalent before proceeding.
Installation Procedure
Do not remove the protective nylon sleeve from the new rear main seal prior to installation. The
EN-48108 is designed to install the rear main seal with the protective sleeve in place. Never apply
or use any oil, lubricants or sealing compounds on the crankshaft rear main oil seal.
Align the mandrel dowel pin (EN-48108) to the dowel pin hole in the crankshaft. Refer to the above
illustration.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal: > 05-06-01-019F > Oct > 07 > Engine - Oil Leaks from Crankshaft Rear Main Seal > Page 2565
Using a large flat-bladed screwdriver, tighten the two mandrel screws to the crankshaft. Ensure that
the mandrel is snug to the crankshaft hub. Refer to the above illustration.
Different types (styles) of rear main seals were used in production in different model years, engines
and manufacturing facilities. As a result, the NEW style rear main seal that you will be installing
may have a different appearance or shape than the one removed. Regardless of what type of seal
was removed and what side was facing outside the engine, the new seal must be installed as
described. Upon close inspection of the outer lip on the new seal, the words this side out" will be
seen. This side of the seal must be facing OUTSIDE the engine when correctly installed. While this
may seem backwards, it is correct. In addition, the protective nylon (plastic) sleeve that the seal is
mounted on in the package was designed so that the seal can only be installed in the proper
direction when using the installation tool described in the following steps.
Install the rear main seal (1), with the protective nylon sleeve attached (2), onto the mandrel. The
seal, if properly installed, will center on a step that protrudes from the center of the mandrel. As an
error proof, seal will fit only one way onto the mandrel. Refer to the above illustration.
Before installing the outer drive drum, bearing, washer and the drive nut onto the threaded shaft,
apply a small amount of the Extreme Pressure Lubricant J 23444-A, provided in the tool kit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal: > 05-06-01-019F > Oct > 07 > Engine - Oil Leaks from Crankshaft Rear Main Seal > Page 2566
Install the outer drive drum onto the mandrel (EN-481 08). Install the bearing, washer and the drive
nut onto the threaded shaft. Refer to the above illustration.
Using a wrench, turn the drive nut on the mandrel (EN-48108), which will push the seal into the
engine block bore. Turn the wrench until the drive drum is snug and flush against the engine block.
Refer to the above illustration.
Loosen and remove the drive nut, washer, bearing and drive drum. Discard the protective nylon
sleeve.
Verify that the seal has seated properly.
Use a flat-bladed screwdriver to remove the two attachment screws from the mandrel and remove
the mandrel from the crankshaft hub. Refer to the above illustration.
Install the engine flywheel. Refer to Engine Flywheel Replacement in SI or the appropriate Service
Manual.
Install the transmission. Refer to Transmission Replacement in SI or the appropriate Service
Manual.
Inspect for proper fluid levels.
Inspect for leaks.
Parts Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal: > 05-06-01-019F > Oct > 07 > Engine - Oil Leaks from Crankshaft Rear Main Seal > Page 2567
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal: > 87-60-02A > Jul > 98 > Engine - Oil Odors
Crankshaft Main Bearing Seal: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Oil Odors
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 87-60-02A
Date: July, 1998
Subject: Engine Oil Odor (Replace Rear Main Bearing Seal)
Models: 1990-96 Buick Regal 1994-97 Buick Skylark 1994-98 Buick Century 1990-94 Chevrolet
Cavalier 1990-95 Chevrolet Camaro 1990-96 Chevrolet Beretta, Corsica, APV 1990-98 Chevrolet
Lumina 1995-98 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1997-98 Chevrolet Malibu, Venture 1990-97 Oldsmobile
Cutlass Supreme 1990-98 Oldsmobile Silhouette 1994-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1994-97
Oldsmobile Achieva 1997-98 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1990-94 Pontiac Sunbird 1990-95 Pontiac
Firebird 1990-98 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport 1994-98 Pontiac Grand Am with 3.1L, 3100,
3.4L, 3400 Engines (VINs T, D, X, M, E, S - RPOs LH0, LG6, L01, L82, LA1, L32)
This bulletin is being revised to correct the model usage and part number. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 87-60-02 (Section 6 - Engine).
Condition
Some of the above listed V6 engines may, on a very infrequent basis, have an oil odor condition
that is generally encountered after the engine's oil has been changed. Typically the odor lasts
approximately 1000 miles after the change of oil and then does not reappear until the next change
of oil.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a reaction taking place between the engine oil additive package
and the grease used on the engine's crankshaft rear main oil seal.
Correction
Verify that the engine does not have any external oil leaks. This can be accomplished by using the
methods outlined in the appropriate Service Manual.
If normal diagnostics are unable to establish the source of the oil odor, replace the crankshaft rear
main oil seal. Before installing the seal, remove the grease from the seal and lightly coat the lip
area of the seal with clean engine oil.
Parts Information
P/N Description Qty
14085829 Crankshaft, rear main bearing seal 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal: > 87-60-02A > Jul > 98 > Engine - Oil Odors > Page 2572
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
J1120 Seal, Crankshaft Use published labor operation time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2573
Crankshaft Main Bearing Seal: Service and Repair
TOOL REQUIRED
^ J 28467-360 Engine Support Fixture
^ J 28467-90 Engine Support Fixture Adapters
^ J 34686 Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal Installer
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Install the Engine Support Fixture and the Engine
Support Fixture Adapters and the Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal Installer. 3. Remove the
transmission. See Transmission and Drivetrain. 4. Remove the flex plate. See Transmission and
Drivetrain. 5. Confirm that there is a rear main seal leak.
CAUTION: Make sure that you do not damage the crankshaft O.D. surface or the chamfer with the
pry tool.
6. Insert a screwdriver or a similar tool through the dust lip at an angle. 7. Pry the seal out by
moving the handle of the tool towards the end of the crankshaft pilot. Pry around the seal as
required until the seal is removed. 8. Check the I.D. of bore for nicks or burrs. Repair the bore if
necessary. 9. Inspect the crankshaft for burrs or nicks on the sealing surfaces. Repair or replace
the crankshaft as needed.
INSTALLATION
1. Apply engine oil to the I.D. and the O.D. of the new seal. 2. Slide the new seal over the mandrel
until the back of the seal bottoms squarely against the collar of the tool. 3. Install the crankshaft
rear oil seal.
a. Align the dowel pin of the Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal Installer with the dowel pin in the
crankshaft. b. Attach the Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal Installer to the crankshaft by hand or tighten
attaching screws to 35 Nm (45 inch lbs.). c. Turn the T handle of the Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal
Installer so that the collar pushes the seal into the bore. Turn the handle until the collar is
tight against the case. Ensure that the seal is seated properly.
d. Loosen the T handle of the Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal Installer until it comes to a stop. Ensure
that the collar is in the proper position to
install another new seal.
e. Remove the attaching screws. f.
Check the seal. Ensure that the seal is seated squarely in the bore.
4. Install the flex plate. 5. Install the transmission. See Transmission and Drivetrain. 6. Remove the
Engine Support Fixture and the Engine Support Fixture Adapters and the Rear Main Bearing Oil
Seal Installer. 7. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2574
8. Check for proper fluid levels. 9. Inspect for leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Front Crankshaft
Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Front Crankshaft Seal: > 07-06-01-023
> Dec > 07 > Engine - Oil Leaks From Front Crankshaft Seal
Front Crankshaft Seal: Customer Interest Engine - Oil Leaks From Front Crankshaft Seal
Bulletin No.: 07-06-01-023
Date: December 05, 2007
TECHNICAL
Subject: 60 Degree V6 Engine Oil Leak at Crankshaft Front Oil Seal (Use New Crankshaft Front Oil
Seal Installer Tool EN-48869)
Models: 1986-2008 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)
with 2.8L, 3.1L, 3.4L, 3.5L or 3.9L 60 Degree V6 Engine
(VINs D, E, F, J, K, L, M, N, R, S, T, V, W, X, Z, 1, 3, 8, 9, W, R - RPOs LG6, LA1, LNJ, LG8, LL1
or LX9, L82, LL2, LB8, LHO, LG5, LB6, LE2 or LQ1, LH7, LC1, L44, LZ4, LZE, LZ9, LGD, LZ8,
LZG)
This bulletin does not apply to 2004-2007 Saturn VUE models with 3.5L DOHC V6 Engine (VIN 4 RPO L66) or 2005-2008 Cadillac CTS with 2.8L HFV6 Engine (VIN T - RPO LP1).
This bulletin only applies to 60 degree V6 engines. Some of the discontinued 60 degree V6 engine
VINs and RPOs may have carried over to other new model year engines and may no longer be a
60 degree V6 engine. So this bulletin may not apply. It is very important to verify that the
information shown is correct before using this bulletin.
If ALL the information from the vehicle (year, size, VIN Code, RPO) you're working on can be found
under the models listed above, then this bulletin applies to that engine. If one or more of the
vehicle's information can NOT be found under the models listed above, then this bulletin does NOT
apply.
Condition
Some customers may comment on external oil leakage.
Correction
Before replacement of the crankshaft front oil seal, be sure the PCV system is operating correctly.
Tools Required
TOOLS WERE SHIPPED TO YOUR DEALERSHIPS. IF YOU HAVE NOT RECEIVED THEM OR
THEY ARE LOST, PLEASE CALL GM SPECIAL SERVICE TOOLS AT 1-800-GM-TOOLS.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Front Crankshaft
Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Front Crankshaft Seal: > 07-06-01-023
> Dec > 07 > Engine - Oil Leaks From Front Crankshaft Seal > Page 2583
The EN-48869 has a unique design to allow the technician to easily install the front crankshaft seal
squarely to the correct depth and direction. Before proceeding with installation, review the
illustration to become familiar with the tool.
Removal Procedure
Remove the crankshaft balancer. Refer to Crankshaft Balancer Replacement in SI.
Use care not to damage the engine front cover or nick the crankshaft.
Remove the crankshaft front oil seal (1) using a suitable tool.
Installation Procedure
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Front Crankshaft
Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Front Crankshaft Seal: > 07-06-01-023
> Dec > 07 > Engine - Oil Leaks From Front Crankshaft Seal > Page 2584
Lubricate the inside of the crankshaft front oil seal (1) with clean engine oil. Then install the seal to
the installer body (2).
Align the oil seal and installer body (1) with the engine front cover and crankshaft.
Before installing the force screw, apply a small amount of the Extreme Pressure Lubricant J
23444-A, provided in the tool kit, to the force screw.
Install the drive nut (4) onto the threaded force screw shaft (5), washer (3), and bearing (2). Then
install to the installer body (1) and tighten the force screw to the crankshaft by hand.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Front Crankshaft
Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Front Crankshaft Seal: > 07-06-01-023
> Dec > 07 > Engine - Oil Leaks From Front Crankshaft Seal > Page 2585
Using a wrench, turn the drive nut on the threaded force screw shaft (2), this will push the seal into
the engine front cover.
Continue to turn the drive nut (2) with the wrench until the installer body (1) is snug and flush
against the engine front cover.
Loosen and remove the drive nut from the threaded force screw shaft, washer, bearing, and
installer body. Verify that the seal has seated properly, flush against front cover flange (1).
Install the crankshaft balancer. Refer to Crankshaft Balancer Replacement in SI.
Inspect for proper fluid levels.
Inspect for leaks.
Parts Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Front Crankshaft
Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Front Crankshaft Seal: > 07-06-01-023
> Dec > 07 > Engine - Oil Leaks From Front Crankshaft Seal > Page 2586
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Front Crankshaft
Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Crankshaft Seal: >
07-06-01-023 > Dec > 07 > Engine - Oil Leaks From Front Crankshaft Seal
Front Crankshaft Seal: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Oil Leaks From Front Crankshaft
Seal
Bulletin No.: 07-06-01-023
Date: December 05, 2007
TECHNICAL
Subject: 60 Degree V6 Engine Oil Leak at Crankshaft Front Oil Seal (Use New Crankshaft Front Oil
Seal Installer Tool EN-48869)
Models: 1986-2008 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)
with 2.8L, 3.1L, 3.4L, 3.5L or 3.9L 60 Degree V6 Engine
(VINs D, E, F, J, K, L, M, N, R, S, T, V, W, X, Z, 1, 3, 8, 9, W, R - RPOs LG6, LA1, LNJ, LG8, LL1
or LX9, L82, LL2, LB8, LHO, LG5, LB6, LE2 or LQ1, LH7, LC1, L44, LZ4, LZE, LZ9, LGD, LZ8,
LZG)
This bulletin does not apply to 2004-2007 Saturn VUE models with 3.5L DOHC V6 Engine (VIN 4 RPO L66) or 2005-2008 Cadillac CTS with 2.8L HFV6 Engine (VIN T - RPO LP1).
This bulletin only applies to 60 degree V6 engines. Some of the discontinued 60 degree V6 engine
VINs and RPOs may have carried over to other new model year engines and may no longer be a
60 degree V6 engine. So this bulletin may not apply. It is very important to verify that the
information shown is correct before using this bulletin.
If ALL the information from the vehicle (year, size, VIN Code, RPO) you're working on can be found
under the models listed above, then this bulletin applies to that engine. If one or more of the
vehicle's information can NOT be found under the models listed above, then this bulletin does NOT
apply.
Condition
Some customers may comment on external oil leakage.
Correction
Before replacement of the crankshaft front oil seal, be sure the PCV system is operating correctly.
Tools Required
TOOLS WERE SHIPPED TO YOUR DEALERSHIPS. IF YOU HAVE NOT RECEIVED THEM OR
THEY ARE LOST, PLEASE CALL GM SPECIAL SERVICE TOOLS AT 1-800-GM-TOOLS.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Front Crankshaft
Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Crankshaft Seal: >
07-06-01-023 > Dec > 07 > Engine - Oil Leaks From Front Crankshaft Seal > Page 2592
The EN-48869 has a unique design to allow the technician to easily install the front crankshaft seal
squarely to the correct depth and direction. Before proceeding with installation, review the
illustration to become familiar with the tool.
Removal Procedure
Remove the crankshaft balancer. Refer to Crankshaft Balancer Replacement in SI.
Use care not to damage the engine front cover or nick the crankshaft.
Remove the crankshaft front oil seal (1) using a suitable tool.
Installation Procedure
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Front Crankshaft
Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Crankshaft Seal: >
07-06-01-023 > Dec > 07 > Engine - Oil Leaks From Front Crankshaft Seal > Page 2593
Lubricate the inside of the crankshaft front oil seal (1) with clean engine oil. Then install the seal to
the installer body (2).
Align the oil seal and installer body (1) with the engine front cover and crankshaft.
Before installing the force screw, apply a small amount of the Extreme Pressure Lubricant J
23444-A, provided in the tool kit, to the force screw.
Install the drive nut (4) onto the threaded force screw shaft (5), washer (3), and bearing (2). Then
install to the installer body (1) and tighten the force screw to the crankshaft by hand.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Front Crankshaft
Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Crankshaft Seal: >
07-06-01-023 > Dec > 07 > Engine - Oil Leaks From Front Crankshaft Seal > Page 2594
Using a wrench, turn the drive nut on the threaded force screw shaft (2), this will push the seal into
the engine front cover.
Continue to turn the drive nut (2) with the wrench until the installer body (1) is snug and flush
against the engine front cover.
Loosen and remove the drive nut from the threaded force screw shaft, washer, bearing, and
installer body. Verify that the seal has seated properly, flush against front cover flange (1).
Install the crankshaft balancer. Refer to Crankshaft Balancer Replacement in SI.
Inspect for proper fluid levels.
Inspect for leaks.
Parts Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Front Crankshaft
Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Crankshaft Seal: >
07-06-01-023 > Dec > 07 > Engine - Oil Leaks From Front Crankshaft Seal > Page 2595
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Front Crankshaft
Seal > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2596
Front Crankshaft Seal: Service and Repair
TOOL REQUIRED
^ J 35468 Crankshaft Seal Installer and Centering Tool
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise the vehicle. Support the vehicle. 3. Remove the
right front tire and wheel assembly. 4. Remove the right splash shield. See Body and Frame. 5.
Remove the crankshaft balancer.
CAUTION: Be careful not to damage the crankshaft.
6. Remove the crankshaft key from the keyway.
7. Pry out the oil seal. Use a tool such as a large screwdriver. 8. Inspect the following items for
scratches:
^ Front cover
^ Crankshaft
INSTALLATION
1. Lubricate the oil seal with clean engine oil. 2. Insert the oil seal into the front cover with the lip
facing the engine. Use the Crankshaft Seal Installer and Centering Tool. 3. Install the crankshaft
key into the keyway. 4. Install the crankshaft balancer. 5. Install the right splash shield. See Body
and Frame. 6. Install the right front tire and wheel assembly. 7. Lower the vehicle. 8. Connect the
negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Valve Guide Seal >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Valve Guide Seal: Service and Repair
TOOL REQUIRED
^ J 22794 Spark Plug Port Adapter
^ J 5892-D Valve Spring Compressor
^ J 38606 Valve Spring Compressor
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the valve rocker cover. 3. Remove the spark
plug. See Powertrain Management. 4. Remove the rocker arm. 5. Install the Spark Plug Port
Adapter to the spark plug port. 6. Apply compressed air in order to hold the valves in place. 7.
Compress the valve spring. Use the Valve Spring Compressor or the Valve Spring Compressor.
8. Measure the following items:
^ Valve locks
^ Valve cap
^ Valve spring
9. Remove the valve stem oil seal.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the valve stem oil seal. Use the plastic sleeve provided. Press the oil seal over the valve
guide boss. 2. Assemble the following items:
^ Spring seat
^ Valve spring
^ Valve cap
3. Compress the valve spring. Use the Valve Spring Compressor or the Valve Spring Compressor.
4. Install the valve locks. Hold the valve locks in place with grease if needed. 5. Release the valve
spring. Ensure that the valve locks are seated. 6. Install the spark plug. See Powertrain
Management. 7. Install the rocker arm. 8. Install the valve rocker cover. 9. Connect the negative
battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Level
Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Oil Level Sensor: Specifications
TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS
Sensor Screw ......................................................................................................................................
............................................ 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Level
Sensor > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2604
Rear Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Level
Sensor > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2605
Engine Oil Level Switch
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Level
Sensor For ECM > Component Information > Specifications
Oil Level Sensor For ECM: Specifications
Engine Oil Level Switch .......................................................................................................................
............................................. 17-27 Nm (13-20 lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Level
Sensor For ECM > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2609
Oil Level Sensor For ECM: Description and Operation
Engine Oil Level Sensor
The PCM monitors the Engine Oil Level Sensor signal at start-up to determine if engine oil level is
OK. If the PCM determines that a low oil level condition exists, the PCM will illuminate the Low Oil
Level indicator lamp.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Level
Sensor For ECM > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2610
Oil Level Sensor For ECM: Service and Repair
Engine Oil Level Sensor
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. 2. Drain the engine oil. 3. Disconnect the electrical connector from Engine Oil
Level Switch 4. Remove the Engine Oil Level Switch from the oil pan.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the Engine Oil Level Switch.
Tighten Switch to 17-27 Nm (13-20 lb. ft.).
2. Lower the vehicle. 3. Add the engine oil to the correct level.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Locations
Front Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 2614
Engine Oil Pressure Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure
Switch (For Fuel Pump) > Component Information > Description and Operation
Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The fuel pump and engine oil pressure indicator switch has two functions, to indicate low engine oil
pressure and to supply battery voltage to the fuel pump in the event the fuel pump relay fails.
OPERATION
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) checks the engine oil pressure continuously. If the oil
pressure switch indicates low oil pressure at any time, the PCM will send information through serial
data to the instrument cluster to turn "ON" the "Low Oil Pressure" telltale.
The oil pressure portion of the switch has normally closed contacts that open on an increasing oil
pressure of 41 kPa (6 psi) or less, and close on a decreasing pressure of 14 (2 psi). When the
switch is closed, the oil pressure signal is sent to the PCM, which in turn sends the information to
the instrument cluster through serial data. The oil pressure lamp on the instrument cluster is then
illuminated.
The fuel pump portion of the switch has a normally open contact that closes when increasing oil
pressure of 41 kPa (6 psi) or less, and opens when decreasing pressure of 14 (2 psi). In the event
the fuel pump relay fails, battery voltage is supplied to the fuel pump through the closed contacts
from the switch.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure
Switch (For Fuel Pump) > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 2618
Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Service and Repair
Engine Oil Pressure Switch
Removal Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise the vehicle. 3. Disconnect the electrical
connector from the engine oil pressure sensor. 4. Remove the engine oil pressure sensor.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the engine oil pressure sensor. 2. Tighten the oil pressure sensor to 16 Nm. 3. Connect
the electrical connector to the engine oil pressure sensor. 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Reconnect the
negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Camshaft Gear/Sprocket >
Component Information > Specifications > Cam Gear Torque Specifications
Camshaft Gear/Sprocket: Specifications Cam Gear Torque Specifications
Camshaft Sprocket Bolt .......................................................................................................................
................................................. 140 Nm (103 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Camshaft Gear/Sprocket >
Component Information > Specifications > Cam Gear Torque Specifications > Page 2624
Camshaft Gear/Sprocket: Specifications Tightening Specifications
Sprocket Bolt .......................................................................................................................................
................................................... 110 Nm (81 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Crankshaft Gear/Sprocket
> Component Information > Specifications > Crankshaft Gear/Hub Torque Specifications
Crankshaft Gear/Sprocket: Specifications Crankshaft Gear/Hub Torque Specifications
Balancer Bolt .......................................................................................................................................
.................................................... 103 Nm (76 ft lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Crankshaft Gear/Sprocket
> Component Information > Specifications > Crankshaft Gear/Hub Torque Specifications > Page 2629
Crankshaft Gear/Sprocket: Specifications Crankshaft Pully/Hub Torque Specification
Crankshaft Balancer Bolt .....................................................................................................................
................................................... 103 Nm (76 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Belt > Component
Information > Service and Repair
Timing Belt: Service and Repair
GM does not specify if this engine is an interference engine or not.
To be safe, always observe the following precautions.
If cylinder head is installed on the cylinder block:
- DO NOT turn the crankshaft or camshaft if the timing belt/chain is not installed or if the camshaft
timing has not been confirmed to be correct.
- DO NOT rotate engine backwards.
- If a broken or "jumped" timing belt/chain is suspected, DO NOT use the starter to crank the
engine.
- If a "catch" is felt when rotating the engine by hand, DO NOT attempt force the engine to rotate
past the "catch".
If cylinder head is removed (overhead cam engines):
- Do not set cylinder head on a flat surface with combustion chamber down.
When re-installing a cylinder head:
- Confirm that the crankshaft AND camshaft gears align with their respective timing marks or
confirm that all shafts are set to TDC for cylinder # 1 BEFORE placing the cylinder head onto the
cylinder block.
If the timing chain/belt has broken of "jumped time" with the engine running, always check for bent
valves by pressurizing each cylinder with air with it's valves in the closed position.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Chain > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Note Concerning Interference Engines
Timing Chain: Service and Repair Note Concerning Interference Engines
GM does not specify if this engine is an interference engine or not.
To be safe, always observe the following precautions.
If cylinder head is installed on the cylinder block:
- DO NOT turn the crankshaft or camshaft if the timing belt/chain is not installed or if the camshaft
timing has not been confirmed to be correct.
- DO NOT rotate engine backwards.
- If a broken or "jumped" timing belt/chain is suspected, DO NOT use the starter to crank the
engine.
- If a "catch" is felt when rotating the engine by hand, DO NOT attempt force the engine to rotate
past the "catch".
If cylinder head is removed (overhead cam engines):
- Do not set cylinder head on a flat surface with combustion chamber down.
When re-installing a cylinder head:
- Confirm that the crankshaft AND camshaft gears align with their respective timing marks or
confirm that all shafts are set to TDC for cylinder # 1 BEFORE placing the cylinder head onto the
cylinder block.
If the timing chain/belt has broken of "jumped time" with the engine running, always check for bent
valves by pressurizing each cylinder with air with it's valves in the closed position.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Chain > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Note Concerning Interference Engines > Page 2637
Timing Chain: Service and Repair Timing Chain Replacement
TOOL REQUIRED
^ J 5825-A Crankshaft Gear Puller
^ J 38612 Crankshaft Sprocket Installer
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Drain the coolant. Recover the coolant. See Cooling
System. 3. Remove the crankcase front cover.
4. Place the #1 piston at top dead center (#4 firing position). Align the mark on the camshaft
sprocket with the timing mark on the bottom of the
timing chain dampener.
5. Remove the camshaft sprocket bolt. 6. Remove the camshaft sprocket. 7. Remove the timing
chain.
NOTE: If the sprocket does not come off easily, a light blow on the lower edge of the sprocket (with
a plastic mallet) should dislodge the sprocket.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Chain > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Note Concerning Interference Engines > Page 2638
8. Remove the crankshaft sprocket. Use the Crankshaft Gear Puller.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the crankshaft sprocket. Use the Crankshaft Sprocket Installer. 2. Apply GM EOS P/N
1052367 or its equivalent to the sprocket thrust surface. 3. Install the chain dampener to the
cylinder block. 4. Align the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket to the mark on the bottom of the
chain dampner. 5. Hold the sprocket with the chain hanging down. 6. Install the timing chain to the
crankshaft gear. 7. Align the centerline of the locator hole, on the camshaft gear, with the timing
mark on the top of the timing chain dampener. 8. Align the dowel in the camshaft with the dowel
hole in the camshaft sprocket. 9. Use the mounting bolts in order to draw the camshaft sprocket
onto the camshaft. Tighten the mounting bolts to 100 Nm (74 ft. lbs.).
10. Lubricate the timing chain with engine oil. 11. Install the crankcase front cover. 12. Fill the
cooling system. See Cooling System. 13. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Pressure > Fuel Pressure Test Port > Component Information > Locations
Fuel Pressure Test Port: Locations
The Fuel Pressure Test Port is located on the fuel rail.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle
Speed > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > By Symptom for Idle Speed: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM Unstable Engine Idle
Idle Speed: By Symptom PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-17
Date: July, 1997
Subject: Unstable Engine Idle (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with 3100 V6 Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
Condition
Some owners may experience an unstable engine idle. The controlled engine idle may vary
approximately 50 RPM from desired idle. This typically occurs during an extended idle period
beyond 30 seconds with the transmission in park or neutral and the air conditioning turned off.
Cause
The Pre Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S1) voltage output is driven low and holds there
(lean). The Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2s2) voltage output will hold then at a high
voltage (rich). This can drive one sensor to cancel out the other thus not allowing fuel trim or the
Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor can take over fuel trim control. If the Post Converter
Heated Oxygen takes over fuel trim control, the system thinks it is running rich and the Long Term
Fuel Trim will make adjustments to lean the system. Either of these conditions will cause a rolling
or hunting idle.
Correction
Check the calibration identification number utilizing a scan tool device. Re-flash with the updated
calibration if the current calibration is not one listed in this bulletin. If the vehicle already has the
most recent calibration, then refer to the appropriate service repair manual to diagnose and repair.
Test drive the vehicle after repair to ensure that the condition has been corrected. The new
calibrations are available from the GM Service Technology Group starting with CD number 12 for
1997.
Important:
There are three methods for programming a PCM
1. Direct Programming. The vehicle is directly connected via the Data Link Connector (DLC) on the
Dealers/Retailers Techline equipment. (T-20 Plus, T-50 and T-60 only) Vehicle must be present.
2. Remote programming. The new program is downloaded into the Dealers/Retailers scan tool and
then downloaded into the vehicle from the scan tool via the DLC. Tech 2 required. Vehicle must be
present.
3. Off-Car Programming. A PCM may be programmed while removed from the vehicle by using the
off-board programming adapter (OBPA), P/N 41207-B. This adapter can be connected to either the
Techline Terminal for direct programming or the scan tool for remote programming. Not necessary
for the vehicle to be present.
Refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Techline Information for more detailed instructions.
Parts Information
Part Number Carline Emission
16266904 Malibu, Cutlass USA Nationwide
16266914 Malibu, Cutlass Canadian/Unleaded
Export
16266924 Malibu Leaded Export
Important:
Do not attempt to order the calibrations from GMSPO. The calibrations are programmed into the
vehicle's PCM via a Techline Tool device.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle
Speed > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > By Symptom for Idle Speed: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM Unstable Engine Idle > Page 2652
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle
Speed > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Idle Speed: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 >
PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
Idle Speed: Customer Interest PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-17
Date: July, 1997
Subject: Unstable Engine Idle (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with 3100 V6 Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
Condition
Some owners may experience an unstable engine idle. The controlled engine idle may vary
approximately 50 RPM from desired idle. This typically occurs during an extended idle period
beyond 30 seconds with the transmission in park or neutral and the air conditioning turned off.
Cause
The Pre Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S1) voltage output is driven low and holds there
(lean). The Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2s2) voltage output will hold then at a high
voltage (rich). This can drive one sensor to cancel out the other thus not allowing fuel trim or the
Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor can take over fuel trim control. If the Post Converter
Heated Oxygen takes over fuel trim control, the system thinks it is running rich and the Long Term
Fuel Trim will make adjustments to lean the system. Either of these conditions will cause a rolling
or hunting idle.
Correction
Check the calibration identification number utilizing a scan tool device. Re-flash with the updated
calibration if the current calibration is not one listed in this bulletin. If the vehicle already has the
most recent calibration, then refer to the appropriate service repair manual to diagnose and repair.
Test drive the vehicle after repair to ensure that the condition has been corrected. The new
calibrations are available from the GM Service Technology Group starting with CD number 12 for
1997.
Important:
There are three methods for programming a PCM
1. Direct Programming. The vehicle is directly connected via the Data Link Connector (DLC) on the
Dealers/Retailers Techline equipment. (T-20 Plus, T-50 and T-60 only) Vehicle must be present.
2. Remote programming. The new program is downloaded into the Dealers/Retailers scan tool and
then downloaded into the vehicle from the scan tool via the DLC. Tech 2 required. Vehicle must be
present.
3. Off-Car Programming. A PCM may be programmed while removed from the vehicle by using the
off-board programming adapter (OBPA), P/N 41207-B. This adapter can be connected to either the
Techline Terminal for direct programming or the scan tool for remote programming. Not necessary
for the vehicle to be present.
Refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Techline Information for more detailed instructions.
Parts Information
Part Number Carline Emission
16266904 Malibu, Cutlass USA Nationwide
16266914 Malibu, Cutlass Canadian/Unleaded
Export
16266924 Malibu Leaded Export
Important:
Do not attempt to order the calibrations from GMSPO. The calibrations are programmed into the
vehicle's PCM via a Techline Tool device.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle
Speed > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Idle Speed: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 >
PROM - Unstable Engine Idle > Page 2658
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle
Speed > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Idle Speed: > 77-65-17 > Jul
> 97 > PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
Idle Speed: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-17
Date: July, 1997
Subject: Unstable Engine Idle (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with 3100 V6 Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
Condition
Some owners may experience an unstable engine idle. The controlled engine idle may vary
approximately 50 RPM from desired idle. This typically occurs during an extended idle period
beyond 30 seconds with the transmission in park or neutral and the air conditioning turned off.
Cause
The Pre Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S1) voltage output is driven low and holds there
(lean). The Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2s2) voltage output will hold then at a high
voltage (rich). This can drive one sensor to cancel out the other thus not allowing fuel trim or the
Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor can take over fuel trim control. If the Post Converter
Heated Oxygen takes over fuel trim control, the system thinks it is running rich and the Long Term
Fuel Trim will make adjustments to lean the system. Either of these conditions will cause a rolling
or hunting idle.
Correction
Check the calibration identification number utilizing a scan tool device. Re-flash with the updated
calibration if the current calibration is not one listed in this bulletin. If the vehicle already has the
most recent calibration, then refer to the appropriate service repair manual to diagnose and repair.
Test drive the vehicle after repair to ensure that the condition has been corrected. The new
calibrations are available from the GM Service Technology Group starting with CD number 12 for
1997.
Important:
There are three methods for programming a PCM
1. Direct Programming. The vehicle is directly connected via the Data Link Connector (DLC) on the
Dealers/Retailers Techline equipment. (T-20 Plus, T-50 and T-60 only) Vehicle must be present.
2. Remote programming. The new program is downloaded into the Dealers/Retailers scan tool and
then downloaded into the vehicle from the scan tool via the DLC. Tech 2 required. Vehicle must be
present.
3. Off-Car Programming. A PCM may be programmed while removed from the vehicle by using the
off-board programming adapter (OBPA), P/N 41207-B. This adapter can be connected to either the
Techline Terminal for direct programming or the scan tool for remote programming. Not necessary
for the vehicle to be present.
Refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Techline Information for more detailed instructions.
Parts Information
Part Number Carline Emission
16266904 Malibu, Cutlass USA Nationwide
16266914 Malibu, Cutlass Canadian/Unleaded
Export
16266924 Malibu Leaded Export
Important:
Do not attempt to order the calibrations from GMSPO. The calibrations are programmed into the
vehicle's PCM via a Techline Tool device.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle
Speed > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Idle Speed: > 77-65-17 > Jul
> 97 > PROM - Unstable Engine Idle > Page 2664
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle
Speed > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2665
Idle Speed: Specifications
Information not supplied by the manufacturer.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air
Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air
Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: Customer Interest Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air
Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air
Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page 2675
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air
Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service
Bulletins for Air Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air
Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service
Bulletins for Air Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page
2681
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air
Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2682
Air Filter Element: Service and Repair
Air Intake Resonator
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the attaching bolt. 2. Remove retainer from resonator. 3. Remove the air intake
resonator.
Installation Procedure
1. Install resonator to vehicle. 2. Connect retainer to the air intake resonator. 3. Install attaching bolt
to the resonator.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Filter > Fuel Pressure Release > System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
Tool Required: J 3473-1A, Fuel Pressure Gauge
1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal to avoid possible fuel discharge if an accidental attempt
is made to start the engine. 2. Loosen the fuel filler cap to relieve tank vapor pressure. 3. Connect
Fuel Pressure Gauge J 34730-1A to the fuel pressure connection. Wrap a shop towel around the
fuel pressure connection while
connecting the fuel pressure gauge in order to avoid spillage.
4. Install the bleed hose into an approved container and open the valve to bleed the system
pressure. The fuel connections are now safe for servicing. 5. Drain any fuel remaining in the fuel
pressure gauge into an approved container.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Firing
Order > Component Information > Specifications > Ignition Firing Order
Firing Order: Specifications Ignition Firing Order
Firing Order .........................................................................................................................................
............................................................... 1-2-3-4-5-6
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Ignition Timing > Number One Cylinder > Component Information > Locations > Number 1 Cylinder Location
Number One Cylinder: Locations Number 1 Cylinder Location
NUMBER ONE CYLINDER LOCATION
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Ignition Timing > Timing Marks and Indicators > System Information > Locations
Timing Marks and Indicators: Locations
The ignition timing is completely controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No timing
reference marks are provided.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Ignition Cable > Component Information > Specifications
Ignition Cable: Specifications
Spark Plug Wire Resistance
..............................................................................................................................................................
Less than 30,000 Ohms.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Ignition Cable > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2702
Ignition Cable: Locations
Spark Plug Wiring
Spark Plug Wiring
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Ignition Cable > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2703
Ignition Cable: Service Precautions
Silicone spark plug boots form a tight seal to the spark plugs. The boot should be twisted 1/2 turn
while removing. DO NOT pull on the wire to remove it from a spark plug. Pull on the boot, or use a
tool designed for this purpose. Care should also be exercised when connecting a timing light or
other pick-up equipment. DO NOT force anything between the boot and wiring, or through the
silicone jacket. Connections should be made in parallel using an adapter.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Ignition Cable > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2704
Ignition Cable: Description and Operation
Description
The spark plug wiring used is a carbon impregnated cord conductor encased in a 7 mm (9/32 inch)
diameter silicone rubber jacket. The silicone wiring will withstand very high temperatures and also
provides an excellent insulator for the higher voltage of the ignition system. The silicone spark plug
boots form a tight seal on the plug and THE BOOT SHOULD BE TWISTED ONE-HALF TURN
WHILE REMOVING. Care should also be exercised when connecting a timing light or other pick-up
equipment. Do not force anything between the boot and wiring, or through the silicone jacket.
Connections should be made in parallel using an adapter. DO NOT pull on the wire to remove. Pull
on the boot, or use a tool designed for this purpose.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Ignition Cable > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2705
Ignition Cable: Service and Repair
Spark Plug Wiring
When replacing spark plug cables (secondary wiring), route the cables correctly and through the
proper retainers. Use care when unlocking retainers. Failure to route the cables properly can lead
to radio ignition noise and cross-firing of the plugs, or shorting of the leads to ground. The silicone
spark plug boots form a tight seal on the plug and THE BOOT SHOULD BE TWISTED ONE-HALF
TURN WHILE REMOVING. Refer to illustrations for spark plug cable routing.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Spark Plug > Component Information > Specifications > Spark Plug Gap
Spark Plug: Specifications
Spark Plug Gap 0.060 in
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Spark Plug > Component Information > Specifications > Spark Plug Gap > Page 2710
Spark Plug: Specifications
Spark Plug Torque 20 lb. ft.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Spark Plug > Component Information > Service Precautions > Technician Safety Information
Spark Plug: Technician Safety Information
WARNING: If you smoke while handling coated spark plugs, wear gloves to prevent transfer of
coating to cigarette and subsequent burning of coating. Always wash hands after handling coated
plugs.
CAUTION:
Observe service precautions:
- Allow engine to cool BEFORE removing spark plugs. Attempting to remove spark plugs from a hot
engine may cause plug to seize, causing damage to cylinder head threads.
- Clean spark plug recess area BEFORE removing plug. Failure to do so can result in engine
damage due to dirt or foreign material entering cylinder head, or in contamination of cylinder head
threads. Contaminated threads may prevent proper seating of new plug.
- Use only spark plugs specified for use in the vehicle. DO NOT install spark plugs that are either
"hotter" or "colder" than those specified for the vehicle. Installing plugs of another type can severely
damage the engine.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Spark Plug > Component Information > Service Precautions > Technician Safety Information > Page 2713
Spark Plug: Vehicle Damage Warnings
WARNING: If you smoke while handling coated spark plugs, wear gloves to prevent transfer of
coating to cigarette and subsequent burning of coating. Always wash hands after handling coated
plugs.
CAUTION:
Observe service precautions:
^ Allow engine to cool BEFORE removing spark plugs. Attempting to remove spark plugs from a
hot engine may cause plug to seize, causing damage to cylinder head threads.
^ Clean spark plug recess area BEFORE removing plug. Failure to do so can result in engine
damage due to dirt or foreign material entering cylinder head, or in contamination of cylinder head
threads. Contaminated threads may prevent proper seating of new plug.
^ Use only spark plugs specified for use in the vehicle. DO NOT install spark plugs that are either
"hotter" or "colder" than those specified for the vehicle. Installing plugs of another type can severely
damage the engine.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Spark Plug > Component Information > Service Precautions > Page 2714
Spark Plug: Application and ID
Note: Use recommended part or one of equivalent quality.
AC Type: 41-940
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Spark Plug > Component Information > Service Precautions > Page 2715
Spark Plug: Description and Operation
CAUTION: This engine has aluminum cylinder heads. Allow the engine to cool before removing
spark plugs, or the spark plug threads in the cylinder head may be damaged.
DESCRIPTION
This engine uses tapered seat resistor type spark plugs without gaskets. Always replace plugs with
the same spark plug as listed.
OPERATION
Normal service is assumed to be a mixture of idling, slow speed, and high speed driving.
Occasional or intermittent highway driving is needed for good spark plug performance because it
gives increased combustion heat that bums away any excess deposits of carbon or oxides that
have built up from frequent idling or continual stop-and-go driving. Spark plugs are protected by an
insulating boot made of special heat-resistant material which covers the spark plug terminal and
extends downward over a portion of the plug insulator. These boots prevent flash-over which
causes engine mis-firing. Do not mistake corona discharge for flash-over or a shorted insulator.
Corona is a steady blue light appearing around the insulator, just above the shell crimp. It is the
visible evidence of a high-tension field, and has no effect on ignition performance. Usually it can be
detected only in darkness. This discharge may repel dust particles, leaving a clear ring on the
insulator just above the shell. This ring is sometimes mistakenly regarded as evidence that
combustion gases have blown out between shell and insulator.
Spark plugs must operate within certain temperature limits if they are to provide the performance
and service life expected. The spark plug selected for an engine is based on the normal service
which the engine was designed.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Spark Plug > Component Information > Service Precautions > Page 2716
Spark Plug: Testing and Inspection
Worn or dirty plugs may give satisfactory operation at idling speed, but under operating conditions
they frequently fail. Faulty plugs are indicated in a number of ways: poor fuel economy, power loss,
loss of speed, hard starting and general poor engine performance.
Spark plugs may also fail due to carbon fouling, excessive gap, or a broken insulator.
Fouled plugs Fouled plugs are identified by black carbon deposits. The black deposits are usually
the result of slow-speed driving and short runs where sufficient engine operating temperature is
seldom reached. Worn pistons, rings, faulty ignition, over-rich air/fuel mixture and spark plugs
which are too cold will also result in carbon deposits.
Excessive gap Excessive gap wear, on plugs of low mileage, usually indicates the engine is
operating at high speeds or loads that are consistently greater than normal or that a plug which is
too hot is being used. Electrode wear may also be the result of plug overheating, caused by
combustion gases leaking past the threads, due to insufficient spark plug torque or too much spark
plug torque. An excessively lean air/fuel mixture will also result in excessive electrode wear.
Broken insulator Broken insulators are usually the result of improper installation or carelessness
when regapping the plug. Broken upper insulators usually result from a poor fitting wrench or an
outside impact. The cracked insulator may not show up right away, but will as soon as oil or
moisture penetrates the crack. The crack is usually just below the crimped part of the shell and
may not be visible.
Broken lower insulators usually result from carelessness when regapping and generally are visible.
This type of break may result from the plug operating too "hot," which may happen in periods of
high-speed operation or under heavy loads. When regapping a spark plug, always make the gap
adjustment by bending the ground (side) electrode. Spark plugs with broken insulators should
always be replaced.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Spark Plug > Component Information > Service Precautions > Page 2717
Spark Plug: Service and Repair
Spark Plug Wiring
Notice: To avoid engine damage, do not remove spark plugs when engine is warm. Use care when
removing spark plug wire boots from spark plugs. Twist the boot one-half turn while removing, and
pull on THE BOOT ONLY to remove the wire.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Ignition key OFF.
2. Remove foreign material from around the spark plug holes.
3. Remove the spark plugs using a spark plug socket.
Install or Connect
1. Adjust spark plug gap using a round wire type spark plug gap gage. WHILE GAPPING PLUG BE
SURE TO KEEP THE PLATINUM PADS
ALIGNED TO ENSURE MAXIMUM PLUG LIFE. Refer to Specifications for gap specifications.
2. Install new plugs and tighten properly.
Tighten ^
Sparkplugs to 20 Nm (15 lb ft).
^ Reapply dielectric lubricant to insulator boot.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Compression Check > System Information > Specifications
Compression Check: Specifications
The lowest reading cylinder should not be less than 70% of the highest and no cylinder reading
should be less than 689 kPa (100 psi). Perform compression test with engine at normal operating
temperature, spark plugs removed and throttle wide open.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Compression Check > System Information > Specifications > Page 2721
Compression Check: Testing and Inspection
TOOL REQUIRED
^ J 38722 Compression Tester
A compression pressure test of the engine cylinders determines the condition of the rings, the
valves and the head gasket.
CAUTION: This engine has aluminum cylinder heads. Allow the engine to cool before removing the
spark plugs, or the engine may be damaged.
1. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. The battery must be at or near full
charge. 2. Turn the engine OFF. 3. Disable the ignition system. See Powertrain Management. 4.
Disable the fuel system. See Powertrain Management.
CAUTION: Remove the ignition fuse and both of the injector fuses from the fuse box and/or
underhood electrical center.
5. Remove the spark plugs from all cylinders. See Powertrain Management. 6. Remove the air duct
from the throttle body. See Powertrain Management. 7. Block the throttle plate in open position. 8.
Measure the engine compression using the following procedure:
a. Install the Compression Tester firmly to the spark plug hole. b. Crank the engine through at least
ten compression strokes (or until the highest reading is achieved) in the cylinder being tested and
check the
readings on the Compression Tester at each stroke. Record the results.
c. Disconnect the Compression Tester. d. Repeat the compression test for each cylinder.
9. Record the compression readings from all of the cylinders.
^ The lowest reading should not be less than 70% of the highest reading.
^ No cylinder reading should be less than 689 kPa (100 psi).
10. When the compression measurement is normal, the compression builds up quickly and evenly
to the specified compression on each cylinder. 11. The following are problem areas:
^ If there is a problem with the piston ring, compression is low on the first stroke and tends to build
up on the following strokes, but does not reach normal. Compression improves considerably with
the addition of oil. Use approximately three squirts of oil from a plunger-type oiler.
^ If there is a problem with the valve, compression is low on the first stroke and it does not tend to
build up in following strokes. Compression does not improve much with the addition of oil. Use
approximately three squirts from a plunger type oiler.
^ Leaking head gaskets give nearly the same results as valve problems, but may be identified by
engine coolant in the crankcase. Head gasket leakage between two cylinders will give low readings
on both cylinders.
12. Remove the block from the throttle plate. 13. Install the air duct to the throttle body. See
Powertrain Management. 14. Install the spark plugs. See Powertrain Management. 15. Install the
ignition fuse and both fuel injector fuses to the fuse box and/or underhood electrical center.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve
Clearance > System Information > Specifications
Valve Clearance: Specifications
This engine uses hydraulic lifters and no valve lash adjustment is necessary.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Water Pump > Component Information >
Specifications
Water Pump: Specifications
TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS
Cover-To-Block Bolts ...........................................................................................................................
........................................ 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
Pump to
Pump Cover Bolts ................................................................................................................................
................................. 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.) Pulley Bolts .......................................................................
....................................................................................................... 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Water Pump > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2728
Water Pump: Description and Operation
The water pump is used to circulate coolant throughout the engine, radiator and heater core. The
water pump is driven by the serpentine belt on 3.1L applications.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Water Pump > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2729
Water Pump: Service and Repair
REMOVAL
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Drain and recover the cooling system. 3. Serpentine belt. See Engine.
4. Water pump pulley bolts and pulley. 5. Water pump attaching bolts and pump. Clean water pump
sealing surfaces.
INSTALLATION
1. Water pump and new gasket. Tighten bolts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.). 2. Water pump pulley and
bolts. 3. Serpentine belt. See Engine. 4. Tighten water pump pulley bolts. Tighten bolt to 25 Nm (18
ft. lbs.). 5. Attach negative battery cable. Tighten bolt to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.). 6. Fill cooling system.
Inspect for leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye
Coolant: Technical Service Bulletins Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye
Bulletin No.: 05-06-02-002B
Date: January 18, 2008
INFORMATION
Subject: DEX-COOL(R) Coolant - New Leak Detection Dye J 46366 - Replaces J 29545-6
Models: 1996-2008 GM Passenger Cars and Light/Medium Duty Trucks* (including Saturn)
1997-2008 Isuzu T-Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab Models Built in Janesville and Flint 1999-2008
Isuzu N-Series Medium Duty Commercial Models with 5.7L or 6.0L Gas Engine
2003-2008 HUMMER H2 2006-2008 HUMMER H3 2005-2008 Saab 9-7X
*EXCLUDING 2006 and Prior Chevrolet Aveo, Epica, Optra, Vivant and Pontiac Matiz, Wave
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to include additional model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 05-06-02-002A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Leak detection dye P/N 12378563 (J 29545-6) (in Canada P/N 88900915) may cause
DEX-COOL(R) coolant to appear green in a black vessel making it appear to be conventional
(green) coolant. This may cause a technician to add conventional coolant to a low DEX-COOL(R)
system thus contaminating it. The green DEX-COOL(R) appearance is caused by the color of the
leak detection dye which alters the color of the DEX-COOL(R) coolant.
A new leak detection dye P/N 89022219 (J 46366) (in Canada P/N 89022220) has been released
that does not alter the appearance of the DEX-COOL(R) coolant. When adding the new leak
detection dye the color of the DEX-COOL(R) coolant will not change. For detecting leaks on any
system that uses DEX-COOL(R) leak detection dye P/N 89022219 (in Canada P/N 89022220)
should be used. The new leak detection dye can be used with both conventional and
DEX-COOL(R) coolant.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye > Page 2735
Coolant: Technical Service Bulletins Cooling System - Coolant Recycling Information
Bulletin No.: 00-06-02-006D
Date: August 15, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Engine Coolant Recycling and Warranty Information
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2007 and Prior
HUMMER Vehicles 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Attention:
Please address this bulletin to the Warranty Claims Administrator and the Service Manager.
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to adjust the title and Include Warranty Information. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 00-06-02-006C (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Coolant Reimbursement Policy
General Motors supports the use of recycled engine coolant for warranty repairs/service, providing
a GM approved engine coolant recycling system is used. Recycled coolant will be reimbursed at
the GMSPO dealer price for new coolant plus the appropriate mark-up. When coolant replacement
is required during a warranty repair, it is crucial that only the relative amount of engine coolant
concentrate be charged, not the total diluted volume. In other words: if you are using two gallons of
pre-diluted (50:50) recycled engine coolant to service a vehicle, you may request reimbursement
for one gallon of GM Goodwrench engine coolant concentrate at the dealer price plus the
appropriate warranty parts handling allowance.
Licensed Approved DEX-COOL(R) Providers
Important:
USE OF NON-APPROVED VIRGIN OR RECYCLED DEX-COOL(R) OR DEVIATIONS IN THE
FORM OF ALTERNATE CHEMICALS OR ALTERATION OF EQUIPMENT, WILL VOID THE GM
ENDORSEMENT, MAY DEGRADE COOLANT SYSTEM INTEGRITY AND PLACE THE
COOLING SYSTEM WARRANTY UNDER JEOPARDY.
Shown in Table 1 are the only current licensed and approved providers of DEX-COOL(R). Products
that are advertised as "COMPATIBLE" or "RECOMMENDED" for use with DEX-COOL(R) have not
been tested or approved by General Motors. Non-approved coolants may degrade the
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye > Page 2736
coolant system integrity and will no longer be considered a 5 yr/150,000 mile (240,000 km) coolant.
Coolant Removal Services/Recycling
The tables include all coolant recycling processes currently approved by GM. Also included is a
primary phone number and demographic information. Used DEX-COOL(R) can be combined with
used conventional coolant (green) for recycling. Depending on the recycling service and/or
equipment, it is then designated as a conventional 2 yr/30,000 mile (50,000 km) coolant or
DEX-COOL(R) 5 yr/150,000 mile (240,000 km) coolant. Recycled coolants as designated in this
bulletin may be used during the vehicle(s) warranty period.
DEX-COOL(R) Recycling
The DEX-COOL(R) recycling service listed in Table 2 has been approved for recycling waste
engine coolants (DEX-COOL) or conventional) to DEX-COOL(R) with 5 yr/150,000 mile (240,000
km) usability. Recycling Fluid Technologies is the only licensed provider of Recycled
DEX-COOL(R) meeting GM6277M specifications and utilizes GM approved inhibitor packages.
This is currently a limited program being monitored by GM Service Operations which will be
expanded as demand increases.
Conventional (Green) Recycling
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye > Page 2737
Processes shown in the Table 3 are capable of recycling waste engine coolants (DEX-COOL(R) or
conventional) to a conventional (green) coolant. Recycling conventional coolant can be
accomplished at your facility by a technician using approved EQUIPMENT (listed by model number
in Table 3), or by an approved coolant recycling SERVICE which may recycle the coolant at your
facility or at an offsite operation. Refer to the table for GM approved coolant recyclers in either of
these two categories. Should you decide to recycle the coolant yourself, strict adherence to the
operating procedures is imperative. Use ONLY the inhibitor chemicals supplied by the respective
(GM approved) recycling equipment manufacturer.
Sealing Tablets
Cooling System Sealing Tablets (Seal Tabs) should not be used as a regular maintenance item
after servicing an engine cooling system. Discoloration of coolant can occur if too many seal tabs
have been inserted into the cooling system. This can occur if seal tabs are repeatedly used over
the service life of a vehicle. Where appropriate, seal tabs may be used if diagnostics fail to repair a
small leak in the cooling system. When a condition appears in which seal tabs may be
recommended, a specific bulletin will be released describing their proper usage.
Water Quality
The integrity of the coolant is dependent upon the quality of DEX-COOL(R) and water.
DEX-COOL(R) is a product that has enhanced protection capability as well as an extended service
interval. These enhanced properties may be jeopardized by combining DEX-COOL(R) with poor
quality water. If you suspect the water in your area of being poor quality, it is recommended you
use distilled or de-ionized water with DEX-COOL(R).
"Pink" DEX-COOL(R)
DEX-COOL(R) is orange in color to distinguish it from other coolants. Due to inconsistencies in the
mixing of the dyes used with DEX-COOL(R), some batches may appear pink after time. The color
shift from orange to pink does not affect the integrity of the coolant, and still maintains the 5
yr/150,000 mile (240,000 km) service interval.
Back Service
Only use DEX-COOL(R) if the vehicle was originally equipped with DEX-COOL(R).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye > Page 2738
Contamination
Mixing conventional green coolant with DEX-COOL(R) will degrade the service interval from 5
yrs./150,000 miles (240,000 km) to 2 yrs./30,000 miles (50,000 km) if left in the contaminated
condition. If contamination occurs, the cooling system must be flushed twice immediately and
re-filled with a 50/50 mixture of DEX-COOL(R) and clean water in order to preserve the enhanced
properties and extended service interval of DEX-COOL(R).
After 5 years/150,000 miles (240,000 km)
After 5 yrs/150,000 miles (240,000 km), the coolant should be changed, preferably using a coolant
exchanger. If the vehicle was originally equipped with DEX-COOL(R) and has not had problems
with contamination from non-DEX-COOL(R) coolants, then the service interval remains the same,
and the coolant does not need to be changed for another 5 yrs/150,000 miles (240,000 km)
Equipment (Coolant Exchangers)
The preferred method of performing coolant replacement is to use a coolant exchanger. A coolant
exchanger can replace virtually all of the old coolant with new coolant. Coolant exchangers can be
used to perform coolant replacement without spillage, and facilitate easy waste collection. They
can also be used to lower the coolant level in a vehicle to allow for less messy servicing of cooling
system components. It is recommended that you use a coolant exchanger with a vacuum feature
facilitates removing trapped air from the cooling system. This is a substantial time savings over
repeatedly thermo cycling the vehicle and topping-off the radiator. The vacuum feature also allows
venting of a hot system to relieve system pressure. Approved coolant exchangers are available
through the GMDE (General Motors Dealer Equipment) program.
For refilling a cooling system that has been partially or fully drained for repairs other than coolant
replacement, the Vac-N-Fill Coolant Refill Tool (GE-47716) is recommended to facilitate removal of
trapped air from the cooling system during refill.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Specifications > Capacity Specifications
Coolant: Capacity Specifications
Capacity ...............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. 12.9 liters (13.6 qt)
ENGINE COOLANT
A 50/50 mixture of clean water (preferably distilled) and use only GM Goodwrench(R)
DEX-COOL(R) or Havoline(R) DEX-COOL(R) (orange-colored, silicate-free) coolant, conforming to
GM Specification 6277M.
CAUTIONS: ^
The use of sealing pellets (or similar compounds) in the coolant system is NOT recommended.The
use of sealing pellets may restrict the flow of coolant through the throttle body or other engine
cooling system components.
^ If silicate coolant is added to the cooling system, premature engine, heater core or radiator
corrosion may result. In addition, the coolant will require change SOONER, at 50 000 km (30,000
miles) or 24 months.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Specifications > Capacity Specifications > Page 2741
Coolant: Fluid Type Specifications
ENGINE COOLANT
A 50/50 mixture of clean water (preferably distilled) and use only GM Goodwrench(R)
DEX-COOL(R) or Havoline(R) DEX-COOL(R) (orange-colored, silicate-free) coolant, or an
approved recycled coolant conforming to GM Specification 6038-M (GM P/N 1052103).
CAUTION: If silicate coolant is added to the cooling system, premature engine, heater core or
radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the coolant will require change SOONER, at 50 000 km
(30,000 miles) or 24 months.
NOTE: With a complete flush and refill it is recommended to add Engine Coolant Supplement
Sealer, (GM P/N 3634621 or equivalent).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2742
Coolant: Description and Operation
MANUFACTURE RECOMMENDATION
This vehicle was manufactured with GM Goodwrench DEX-COOL. DEX-COOL was developed to
last for 240,000 km (150,000 miles) or 5 years whichever occurs first. Make sure only GM
Goodwrench DEX-COOL is used when coolant is added or changed. A 50/50 mixture of ethylene
glycol (DEX-COOL) and water will provide the following: ^
Freezing protection down to -37°C (-34°F).
^ Boiling protection up to 129°C (265°F).
^ Help keep the proper engine temperature.
^ Rust and corrosion protection.
^ Allow the sensors and switches to operate as designed.
CAUTION: Do not use a solution stronger than 70 percent antifreeze. Pure antifreeze will freeze at
-22°C (-8°F).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
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Coolant: Testing and Inspection
TOOL REQUIRED
^ J 26568 or J 23688 Coolant Tester, Do not remove the clear plastic pump from the tester.
CONCENTRATION TESTING
1. Release the tip of the pump from the coolant tester housing. 2. Insert the tip of the pump into, the
surge tank.
^ Make sure the tip of the pump is below the level of the coolant.
3. Press and release the bulb to get a sample. 4. Insert the tip of the pump into the cover plate
opening. 5. Press the bulb land allow a few drops to fall onto the measuring surface.
^ Do not open the plastic cover when taking readings because water evaporation can change the
readings.
6. Point the coolant tester toward any light and look into the eyepiece.
^ Coolant protection reading is at the point where the dividing line between light and dark crosses
the scale (anti-freeze protection is the scale on the right).
^ Temperature scale is reversed from a standard thermometer scale.
^ Below zero readings are on the upper half of the scale.
^ If the readings are not clear, the measuring surface was not cleaned, and dried properly. Wipe
dry and make a new test.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
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Coolant: Tools and Equipment
CAUTION: Coolant testers J 26568 (Centigrade Scale) and J 23688 (Fahrenheit Scale) can be
used to check the antifreeze protection of the coolant. Make sure the refractometer markings are
correct. Unless J 26568 or J 23688 has a provision for temperature correction, test the temperature
at which testers are calibrated. If the, coolant is warmer or cooler the reading may be incorrect.
Follow the manufacturer's directions on tester being used.
^ Before each use lift up the plastic cover at the slanted end of J 26568 or J 23688, exposing the
measuring window and the bottom of the plastic cover.
^ Wipe the window wish a tissue or a clean soft cloth.
^ Close plastic cover.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant Level Indicator Lamp >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Coolant Level Indicator Lamp: Description and Operation
The Low Coolant indicator (amber) will be illuminated to indicate to the driver that the Engine
Coolant level is low. The Engine Coolant Level Switch is a discrete input to the Body Function
Controller (BFC) which will close when the Engine Coolant is low. The indicator will illuminate when
the input has been active low for at least 10 seconds and the Ignition Switch is in the RUN position.
The indicator will be commanded OFF if the switch input goes inactive for at least 2 seconds. This
is a distributed function between the Body Function Controller (BFC) and the Instrument Cluster.
The Body Function Controller (BFC) will read the status of the Engine Coolant Level Switch input
and determine indicator control and then send the control state to the
Instrument Cluster via the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial data bus. The Instrument Cluster
will read the Low Coolant indicator control state in the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) message
and control the indicator directly. In the event of an Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) data link
failure, the Low Coolant indicator will not illuminate unless the indicator was illuminated prior to the
Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) data link failure.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant Level Indicator Lamp >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 2748
Coolant Level Indicator Lamp: Testing and Inspection
Diagnostic Chart
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant Level Sensor > Component
Information > Locations
RH Side Of Engine Compartment
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Coolant Level Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2758
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Coolant Level Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2782
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2783
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2784
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2785
Engine Coolant Level Switch
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2786
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant Reservoir > Component
Information > Specifications
Coolant Reservoir: Specifications
Tank Bolt .............................................................................................................................................
................................................... 9 Nm (80 inch lbs.) Tank Cap ..........................................................
....................................................................................................................................... 4 Nm (35
inch lbs.)
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Information > Specifications > Page 2790
Coolant Reservoir: Description and Operation
LOW COOLANT SWITCH
All engines have a low coolant warning switch. This switch is located in the coolant surge tank.
SURGE TANK
A plastic radiator surge tank is incorporated in the cooling system. Pressurized coolant will circulate
in the tank entering from the top inlet hose attached from the engine and exiting the bottom outlet
hose to the lower radiator hose. The tank is at the highest point of the cooling system. This will
allow any air or vapor exceeding the pressure cap rating exit the tank. When the coolant is cool the
level should be at the appropriate mark on the tanks. All engines incorporate a low coolant indicator
located inside the tank. See Cooling System.
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Coolant Reservoir: Service and Repair
REMOVAL
1. Drain and recover cooling system. 2. Coolant hoses from radiator surge tank. 3. Low coolant
connector. 4. Radiator surge tank.
INSTALLATION
1. Tank to vehicle. Tighten bolt to 9 Nm (80 inch lbs.). 2. Coolant hoses to radiator surge tank. 3.
Low coolant connector. 4. Fill cooling system at radiator surge tank. Inspect for leaks.
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2797
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2798
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2800
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2802
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2803
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2824
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2825
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2826
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2827
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2828
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Connector Views
LH Cooling Fan Motor
RH Cooling Fan Motor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2829
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Description and Operation > General Description
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Description and Operation General Description
OPERATION
Dual electric cooling fans aid air flow through the radiator. The fans are driven by electric motors
that attach to the fan shroud. The fan motors are activated by the cooling fan relays.
WARNING: An electric fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and
can injure you. Keep hands clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Description and Operation > General Description > Page 2832
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Description and Operation Circuit Description
The Engine Cooling Fan control is partitioned between the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and
the Body Function Controller (BFC) via Class 2. The main algorithm control resides in the Body
Function Controller (BFC). The Body Function Controller (BFC) sends a fan speed command to the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) processes this command
along with its own fan request and determines what the actual fan speed should be.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 2833
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Service and Repair
WARNING: To help avoid personal injury or damage to the vehicle, a bent, cracked, or damaged
fan blade or housing should always be replaced.
REMOVAL
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Fan bolts (4) and disconnect electrical connector. 3. Fan from shroud.
INSTALLATION
1. Fan. 2. Fan bolts and electrical connector. Tighten bolts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.). 3. Negative
battery cable. Tighten bolt to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor Relay > Component Information > Locations
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay: Locations
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Left Side Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor Relay > Component Information > Locations > Page 2837
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay: Description and Operation
OPERATION
The PCM regulates voltage to the coolant fan relays, which operate the fans.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch > Component Information > Diagrams
Engine Coolant Level Switch
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Specifications > Electrical
Specifications
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Electrical Specifications
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
100°C (212°F) .....................................................................................................................................
......................................................... 177 Ohms 90°C (194°F) ............................................................
................................................................................................................................... 241 Ohms 80°C
(176°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 332 Ohms 70°C (158°F) ......................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 467 Ohms 60°C
(140°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 667 Ohms 50°C (122°F) ......................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 973 Ohms 40°C
(104°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 1,459 Ohms 30°C (86°F) ........................................................................
...................................................................................................................... 2,238 Ohms 20°C
(68°F) ..................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 3,520 Ohms 10°C (50°F) ........................................................................
...................................................................................................................... 5,670 Ohms 0°C (32°F)
..............................................................................................................................................................
................................. 9,420 Ohms -10°C (14°F) ..................................................................................
.......................................................................................................... 16,180 Ohms -20°C (-4°F) .......
..............................................................................................................................................................
........................ 28,680 Ohms -30°C (-22°F) .......................................................................................
.................................................................................................... 52,700 Ohms -40°C (-40°F) ...........
..............................................................................................................................................................
................ 100,700 Ohms
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Specifications > Electrical
Specifications > Page 2846
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Mechanical Specifications
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
............................................................................................................................................... 23 Nm
(17 lb. ft.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Specifications > Page
2847
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Specifications > Page
2848
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is a thermistor (a resistor which changes value
based on temperature) mounted in the engine coolant stream. Low coolant temperature produces a
high resistance (100,000 ohms at -40°C/-40°F) while high temperature causes low resistance (70
ohms at 130°C/266°F).
OPERATION
The PCM supplies a 5 volt signal to the engine coolant temperature sensor through a resistor in the
PCM and measures the voltage. The voltage will be high when the engine is cold, and low when
the engine is hot. By measuring the voltage, the PCM calculates the engine coolant temperature.
Engine coolant temperature affects most systems the PCM controls.
The scan tool displays engine coolant temperature in degrees. After engine start-up, the
temperature should rise steadily to about 90°C (194°F) then stabilize when thermostat opens. If the
engine has not been run for several hours (overnight) the engine coolant temperature and intake
air temperature displays should be close to each other. A hard fault in the engine coolant sensor
circuit should set DTC P0117 or DTC P0118; an intermittent fault should set a DTC P1114 or
P1115. The DTC Diagnostic Aids also contains a chart to check for sensor resistance values
relative to temperature.
The ECT sensor also contains another circuit which is used to operate the engine coolant
temperature gauge located in the instrument panel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Specifications > Page
2849
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Relieve coolant pressure. 2. Air intake duct. 3. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 4. Remove
the electrical connector. 5. Using a deep well socket and extension, remove the sensor.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Coat engine coolant temperature sensor threads with sealer P/N 9985253 or equivalent. 2.
Install the sensor in the engine.
Tighten Sensor to 23 Nm (17 lb. ft.).
3. Install the electrical connector. 4. Air intake duct. 5. Connect the negative battery cable. 6. Start
the engine. 7. Check for leaks. 8. Check the coolant level, replenish as needed.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch > Component Information > Diagrams
Engine Coolant Level Switch
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Fan Shroud > Component Information >
Specifications
Fan Shroud: Specifications
Fan to Shroud Bolts .............................................................................................................................
.................................................... 5 Nm (44 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Core > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Cooling System, A/C - Aluminum Heater Cores/Radiators
Heater Core: Technical Service Bulletins Cooling System, A/C - Aluminum Heater Cores/Radiators
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 05-06-02-001A
Date: July 16, 2008
Subject: Information On Aluminum Heater Core and/or Radiator Replacement
Models: 2005 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn) 2003-2005
HUMMER H2
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the Warranty Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 05-06-02-001 (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Important:
2004-05 Chevrolet Aveo (Pontiac Wave, Canada Only) does not use DEX-COOL(R). Refer to the
flushing procedure explained later in this bulletin.
The following information should be utilized when servicing aluminum heater core and/or radiators
on repeat visits. A replacement may be necessary because erosion, corrosion, or insufficient
inhibitor levels may cause damage to the heater core, radiator or water pump. A coolant check
should be performed whenever a heater core, radiator, or water pump is replaced. The following
procedures/ inspections should be done to verify proper coolant effectiveness.
Caution:
To avoid being burned, do not remove the radiator cap or surge tank cap while the engine is hot.
The cooling system will release scalding fluid and steam under pressure if the radiator cap or surge
tank cap is removed while the engine and radiator are still hot.
Important:
If the vehicle's coolant is low, drained out, or the customer has repeatedly added coolant or water
to the system, then the system should be completely flushed using the procedure explained later in
this bulletin.
Technician Diagnosis
^ Verify coolant concentration. A 50% coolant/water solution ensures proper freeze and corrosion
protection. Inhibitor levels cannot be easily measured in the field, but can be indirectly done by the
measurement of coolant concentration. This must be done by using a Refractometer J 23688
(Fahrenheit scale) or J 26568 (centigrade scale), or equivalent, coolant tester. The Refractometer
uses a minimal amount of coolant that can be taken from the coolant recovery reservoir, radiator or
the engine block. Inexpensive gravity float testers (floating balls) will not completely analyze the
coolant concentration fully and should not be used. The concentration levels should be between
50% and 65% coolant concentrate. This mixture will have a freeze point protection of -34 degrees
Fahrenheit (-37 degrees Celsius). If the concentration is below 50%, the cooling system must be
flushed.
^ Inspect the coolant flow restrictor if the vehicle is equipped with one. Refer to Service Information
(SI) and/or the appropriate Service Manual for component location and condition for operation.
^ Verify that no electrolysis is present in the cooling system. This electrolysis test can be performed
before or after the system has been repaired. Use a digital voltmeter set to 12 volts. Attach one test
lead to the negative battery post and insert the other test lead into the radiator coolant, making sure
the lead does not touch the filler neck or core. Any voltage reading over 0.3 volts indicates that
stray current is finding its way into the coolant. Electrolysis is often an intermittent condition that
occurs when a device or accessory that is mounted to the radiator is energized. This type of current
could be caused from a poorly grounded cooling fan or some other accessory and can be verified
by watching the volt meter and turning on and off various accessories or engage the starter motor.
Before using one of the following flush procedures, the coolant recovery reservoir must be
removed, drained, cleaned and reinstalled before refilling the system.
Notice:
^ Using coolant other than DEX‐COOL(R) may cause premature engine, heater core or
radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles
(50,000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your
warranty. Always use DEX‐COOL(R) (silicate free) coolant in your vehicle.
^ If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The
repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and
crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Core > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Cooling System, A/C - Aluminum Heater Cores/Radiators > Page 2860
Flushing Procedures using DEX-COOL(R)
Important:
The following procedure recommends refilling the system with DEX-COOL(R), P/N 12346290 (in
Canada, use P/N 10953464), GM specification 6277M. This coolant is orange in color and has a
service interval of 5 years or 240,000 km (150,000 mi). However, when used on vehicles built prior
to the introduction of DEX-COOL(R), maintenance intervals will remain the same as specified in the
Owner's Manual.
^ If available, use the approved cooling system flush and fill machine (available through the GM
Dealer Equipment Program) following the manufacturer's operating instructions.
^ If approved cooling system flush and fill machine is not available, drain the coolant and dispose of
properly following the draining procedures in the appropriate Service Manual. Refill the system
using clear, drinkable water and run the vehicle until the thermostat opens. Repeat and run the
vehicle three (3) times to totally remove the old coolant or until the drained coolant is almost clear.
Once the system is completely flushed, refill the cooling system to a 50%-60% concentration with
DEX‐COOL(R), P/N 12346290 (in Canada, use P/N 10953464), GM specification 6277M,
following the refill procedures in the appropriate Service Manual.
If a Service Manual is not available, fill half the capacity of the system with 100% DEX-COOL(R),
P/N 12346290 (in Canada, use P/N 10953464), GM specification 6277M. Then slowly add clear,
drinkable water (preferably distilled) to the system until the level of the coolant mixture has reached
the base of the radiator neck. Wait two (2) minutes and reverify the coolant level. If necessary, add
clean water to restore the coolant to the appropriate level.
Once the system is refilled, reverify the coolant concentration using a Refractometer J 23688
(Fahrenheit scale) or J 26568 (centigrade scale) coolant tester, or equivalent. The concentration
levels should be between 50% and 65%.
Flushing Procedures using Conventional Silicated (Green Colored) Coolant
Important:
2004-2005 Chevrolet Aveo (Pontiac Wave, Canada Only) does not use DEX‐COOL(R).
The Aveo and Wave are filled with conventional, silicated engine coolant that is blue in color.
Silicated coolants are typically green in color and are required to be drained, flushed and refilled
every 30,000 miles (48,000 km). The Aveo and Wave are to be serviced with conventional, silicated
coolant. Use P/N 12378560 (1 gal) (in Canada, use P/N 88862159 (1 L). Refer to the Owner's
Manual or Service Information (SI) for further information on OEM coolant.
Important:
Do not mix the OEM orange colored DEX-COOL(R) coolant with green colored coolant when
adding coolant to the system or when servicing the vehicle's cooling system. Mixing the orange and
green colored coolants will produce a brown coolant which may be a customer dissatisfier and will
not extend the service interval to that of DEX-COOL(R). Conventional silicated coolants offered by
GM Service and Parts Operations are green in color.
^ If available, use the approved cooling system flush and fill machine (available through the GM
Dealer Equipment Program) following the manufacturer's operating instructions.
^ If approved cooling systems flush and fill machine is not available, drain coolant and dispose of
properly following the draining procedures in appropriate Service Manual. Refill the system using
clear, drinkable water and run vehicle until thermostat opens. Repeat and run vehicle three (3)
times to totally remove old coolant or until drained coolant is almost clear. Once the system is
completely flushed, refill the cooling system to a 50%-60% concentration with a good quality
ethylene glycol base engine coolant, P/N 12378560, 1 gal (in Canada, use P/N 88862159 1 L),
conforming to GM specification 1825M, or recycled coolant conforming to GM specification 1825M,
following the refill procedures in the appropriate Service Manual.
If a Service Manual is not available, fill half the capacity of the system with 100% good quality
ethylene glycol base (green colored) engine coolant, P/N 12378560 1 gal., (in Canada, use P/N
88862159 1 L) conforming to GM specification 1825M. Then slowly add clear, drinkable water
(preferably distilled) to system until the level of the coolant mixture has reached the base of the
radiator neck. Wait two (2) minutes and recheck coolant level. If necessary, add clean water to
restore coolant to the appropriate level.
Once the system is refilled, recheck the coolant concentration using a Refractometer J 23688
(Fahrenheit scale) or J 26568 (centigrade scale) coolant tester, or equivalent. Concentration levels
should be between 50% and 65%.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Core > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Cooling System, A/C - Aluminum Heater Cores/Radiators > Page 2861
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Core > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2862
Heater Core: Specifications
Heater Core and Heater Core Mounting Screws
............................................................................................................................................ 1 N.m (9
lb in)
Heater Core Cover Screws ..................................................................................................................
.......................................................... 1 N.m (9 lb in)
Heater Core Outlet Screws ..................................................................................................................
.......................................................... 1 N.m (9 lb in)
Negative Battery Cable Bolt ................................................................................................................
...................................................... 16 N.m (12 lb ft)
Seal Plate Nuts ....................................................................................................................................
......................................................... 3 N.m (27 lb in)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Core > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2863
Heater Core: Locations
Heater And A/C Module (2 Of 2)
HVAC Module Cut Away View
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Core > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2864
Heater Core: Service and Repair
Heater And A/C Module (2 Of 2)
HVAC Module Cut Away View
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Core > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2865
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Drain cooling system. 3. Heater hoses from heater core and moisture
drain tube. 4. Instrument Panel and console. 5. Heater outlet. 6. Heater core cover.
^ There is a mounting screw located in a recess in the center of the cover
7. Heater core mounting clamps and heater core.
Install or Connect
1. Heater core and heater core mounting clamps.
Tighten
^ Screws to 1 Nm (9 lb in).
2. Heater core cover.
Tighten ^
Screws to 1 Nm (9 lb in).
3. Heater core outlet.
Tighten ^
Screws to 1 Nm (9 lb in).
4. Instrument Panel and Console. 5. Heater hoses to heater core and moisture drain tube. 6. Fill
cooling system. 7. Negative battery cable.
Tighten ^
Bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Hose > Component Information >
Specifications > Thermostat Bypass Pipe (Heater Outlet)
Heater Hose: Specifications Thermostat Bypass Pipe (Heater Outlet)
Retaining Nut .......................................................................................................................................
...................................................... 25 N.m (18 lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Hose > Component Information >
Specifications > Thermostat Bypass Pipe (Heater Outlet) > Page 2870
Heater Hose: Specifications Heater Inlet Pipe
Inlet Pipe Nut .......................................................................................................................................
...................................................... 25 N.m (18 lb ft.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Hose > Component Information >
Locations > Heater Hoses
Heater Hoses
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Hose > Component Information >
Locations > Heater Hoses > Page 2873
Heater Inlet Pipe
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Hose > Component Information >
Locations > Heater Hoses > Page 2874
Thermostat Bypass/Heater Outlet Pipe
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Hose > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Heater Hoses
Heater Hose: Service and Repair Heater Hoses
Heater Hoses
Check all heater hose routing for installation to avoid contact with any obstruction that could result
in a damaged hose. Some hoses are equipped with conduit in areas where rubbing may occur.
Always reinstall conduit and heat sleeving in the same location when replacing a hose. when
servicing a heater hose with a quick connect assembly, REPLACEMENT OF THE RETAINER IS
RECOMMENDED.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Drain engine coolant. 2. Heater hoses from heater pipes by squeezing tabs on quick connects.
3. Heater hoses from heater core.
Install or Connect
1. Heater hoses to heater core. 2. Heater hoses to heater pipe quick connects, pull to verify
connection. 3. Refill engine coolant.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Hose > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Heater Hoses > Page 2877
Heater Hose: Service and Repair Heater Inlet Pipe
Heater Inlet Pipe
Check all heater hose routing for installation to avoid contact with any obstruction that could result
in a damaged hose. Some hoses are equipped with conduit in areas where rubbing may occur.
Always reinstall conduit and heat sleeving in the same location when replacing a hose. when
servicing a heater hose with a quick connect assembly, REPLACEMENT OF THE RETAINER IS
RECOMMENDED.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Drain cooling system. 2. Heater inlet pipe retaining nut on cylinder head (Behind exhaust
crossover pipe). 3. Heater hose to heater inlet pipe by squeezing tabs on quick connect. 4. Heater
inlet pipe from engine fitting by squeezing tabs on quick connect. 5. Heater inlet pipe.
Install or Connect
1. Heater inlet pipe to engine, pull to verify connection. 2. Heater inlet pipe retaining nut.
Tighten
^ Nut to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
3. Heater hose to heater inlet pipe, pull to verify connection 4. Refill coolant system.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Hose > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Heater Hoses > Page 2878
Heater Hose: Service and Repair Quick Connect Retainer
The quick connect retainer is located on the end of the heater outlet pipe on 2.4L applications and
on both the inlet and outlet pipes on 3.1L applications. The quick connect retainer can be removed
from the heater pipe and replaced if necessary. WHENEVER THE HEATER HOSE QUICK
CONNECT IS DISCONNECTED, RETAINER REPLACEMENT IS RECOMMENDED.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Hose > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Heater Hoses > Page 2879
Heater Hose: Service and Repair Thermostat Bypass Pipe (Heater Outlet)
Thermostat Bypass/Heater Outlet Pipe
Check all heater hose routing for installation to avoid contact with any obstruction that could result
in a damaged hose. Some hoses are equipped with conduit in areas where rubbing may occur.
Always reinstall conduit and heat sleeving in the same location when replacing a hose. when
servicing a heater hose with a quick connect assembly, REPLACEMENT OF THE RETAINER IS
RECOMMENDED.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Drain cooling system. 2. Thermostat bypass hose from intake manifold pipe. 3. Retaining nuts on
exhaust manifold. 4. Air Inlet assembly. 5. Outlet pipe retaining nut on cylinder head (Behind
exhaust crossover pipe). 6. Heater hose from outlet pipe by squeezing tabs on quick connect. 7.
Throttle body hoses from outlet pipe. 8. Radiator hose from thermostat housing. 9. Outlet pipe
assembly.
Install or Connect
1. Outlet pipe assembly. 2. Radiator hose to thermostat housing. 3. Throttle body hoses to outlet
pipe 4. Outlet pipe retaining nut (Hand tighten at this point). 5. Thermostat bypass hose to intake
manifold pipe. 6. Tighten retaining nut.
Tighten
^ Nut to 25 Nm (18 lb ft)
7. Heater hose to outlet pipe. Pull to verify connection 8. Air Inlet assembly. 9. Fill cooling system
and check for leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Lamps and Indicators - Cooling System >
Coolant Level Indicator Lamp > Component Information > Description and Operation
Coolant Level Indicator Lamp: Description and Operation
The Low Coolant indicator (amber) will be illuminated to indicate to the driver that the Engine
Coolant level is low. The Engine Coolant Level Switch is a discrete input to the Body Function
Controller (BFC) which will close when the Engine Coolant is low. The indicator will illuminate when
the input has been active low for at least 10 seconds and the Ignition Switch is in the RUN position.
The indicator will be commanded OFF if the switch input goes inactive for at least 2 seconds. This
is a distributed function between the Body Function Controller (BFC) and the Instrument Cluster.
The Body Function Controller (BFC) will read the status of the Engine Coolant Level Switch input
and determine indicator control and then send the control state to the
Instrument Cluster via the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial data bus. The Instrument Cluster
will read the Low Coolant indicator control state in the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) message
and control the indicator directly. In the event of an Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) data link
failure, the Low Coolant indicator will not illuminate unless the indicator was illuminated prior to the
Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) data link failure.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Lamps and Indicators - Cooling System >
Coolant Level Indicator Lamp > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 2884
Coolant Level Indicator Lamp: Testing and Inspection
Diagnostic Chart
Diagnostic Chart
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Lamps and Indicators - Cooling System >
Temperature Gauge > Component Information > Description and Operation
Temperature Gauge: Description and Operation
This function controls the Engine Coolant Temperature Gauge and the High Temperature indicator
(red). The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) reads the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor and
sends the information to the Body Function Controller (BFC) via Class 2 serial data link. The Body
Function Controller (BFC) converts the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) data into gauge data for
the Instrument Cluster sent via Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial data link. The Body Function
Controller (BFC) also sends the High Temperature indicator ON/OFF request to the Instrument
Cluster via the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial data link. The Instrument Cluster receives the
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor information via Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial data
link and converts it into a Temperature Gauge pointer position.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator > Radiator Drain Plug >
Component Information > Specifications
Radiator Drain Plug: Specifications
Coolant Drain Plug ..............................................................................................................................
..................................................... 19 Nm (14 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator > Radiator Drain Plug >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2892
Radiator Drain Plug: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The radiator drain cock is located on the bottom of the tank located on the left side of the radiator
core. The drain cock assembly includes the drain cock and the drain cock seal. Use this drain
whenever coolant needs to be removed.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator > Radiator Drain Plug >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2893
Radiator Drain Plug: Service and Repair
REPLACEMENT
The drain cock is opened by turning counterclockwise and closed by turning clockwise. At an
intermediate position the stem can be removed for service by pulling it out of the radiator body. The
stem and seal can be cleaned and replaced if necessary.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cap > Component Information >
Description and Operation
Radiator Cap: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
A plastic pressure-vent cap is used to allow a buildup of 103 kPa (15 psi) in the cooling system.
This pressure raises the boiling point of coolant to approximately 125°C (262°E7) at sea level. The
pressure-type surge tank cap contains a blow-off (pressure) valve and a vacuum (atmospheric)
valve. The cap protects the radiator by relieving pressure exceeding 103 kPa (15 psi). To prevent
radiator collapse caused by vacuum as the engine cools, the vacuum valve prevents excessive
pressure differences from occurring between the cooling system and the atmosphere. The surge
tank cap has a threaded design to allow easier and safer removal. To safely remove the cap from a
cool system, rotate the cap slowly counterclockwise 1/4 turn and then stop. Allow any pressure to
relieve. After all hissing stops, continue to rotate counterclockwise until the cap is removed. There
is no specific orientation of the lettering on the cap versus the cap being tight. To retighten cap, use
approximately 5 Nm (44 inch lbs.) of force (hand tight pressure).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cap > Component Information >
Description and Operation > Page 2897
Radiator Cap: Testing and Inspection
TOOL REQUIRED
^ J 24460-01 Universal Cooling System and Cap Pressure Tester
^ J 24460-92 Cooling System Tester Adapter
Inspect
^ Hose connections for leaks.
^ Surge tank cap, Using Universal Cooling System and Cap Pressure Tester and Cooling System
Tester Adapter check cap for rated pressure. If the cap will not hold pressure replace the surge
tank cap.
^ For damage or debris on the gasket in the cap and the inner sealing surface of the filler neck.
^ Make sure that the correct cap is being used.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Hose > Component Information
> Service and Repair
Radiator Hose: Service and Repair
REMOVAL
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Drain and recover the coolant so the lever is below the hose, being
removed. 3. Radiator inlet hose from the radiator and thermostat housing. 4. Engine inlet hose from
the radiator, water pump and surge tank.
CAUTION: Make sure the reference marks on the hoses and the radiator are lined up. A twist on
the hose would place strain on the radiator fitting which could cause the fitting to crack or break.
INSTALLATION
1. Engine inlet hose to the radiator, water pump and surge tank. 2. Radiator inlet hose to the
radiator and thermostat housing. 3. Negative battery cable. Tighten bolt to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.). 4. Fill
the cooling system. Inspect for leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Relays and Modules - Cooling System >
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay > Component Information > Locations
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay: Locations
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Left Side Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Relays and Modules - Cooling System >
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay > Component Information > Locations > Page 2905
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay: Description and Operation
OPERATION
The PCM regulates voltage to the coolant fan relays, which operate the fans.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Coolant Level Sensor > Component Information > Locations
RH Side Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Coolant Level Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Coolant Level Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Coolant Level Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2912
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Coolant Level Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2913
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Coolant Level Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2914
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Coolant Level Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2915
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Coolant Level Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2916
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Coolant Level Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2917
Coolant Level Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Coolant Level Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2918
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Coolant Level Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2919
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Coolant Level Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2920
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Coolant Level Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2921
insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Coolant Level Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2936
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Coolant Level Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2937
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Coolant Level Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2938
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Coolant Level Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2939
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Coolant Level Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2940
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Coolant Level Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2941
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Coolant Level Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2942
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Coolant Level Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2943
Engine Coolant Level Switch
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Coolant Level Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2944
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Specifications > Electrical Specifications
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Electrical Specifications
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
100°C (212°F) .....................................................................................................................................
......................................................... 177 Ohms 90°C (194°F) ............................................................
................................................................................................................................... 241 Ohms 80°C
(176°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 332 Ohms 70°C (158°F) ......................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 467 Ohms 60°C
(140°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 667 Ohms 50°C (122°F) ......................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 973 Ohms 40°C
(104°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 1,459 Ohms 30°C (86°F) ........................................................................
...................................................................................................................... 2,238 Ohms 20°C
(68°F) ..................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 3,520 Ohms 10°C (50°F) ........................................................................
...................................................................................................................... 5,670 Ohms 0°C (32°F)
..............................................................................................................................................................
................................. 9,420 Ohms -10°C (14°F) ..................................................................................
.......................................................................................................... 16,180 Ohms -20°C (-4°F) .......
..............................................................................................................................................................
........................ 28,680 Ohms -30°C (-22°F) .......................................................................................
.................................................................................................... 52,700 Ohms -40°C (-40°F) ...........
..............................................................................................................................................................
................ 100,700 Ohms
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Specifications > Electrical Specifications > Page 2950
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Mechanical Specifications
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
............................................................................................................................................... 23 Nm
(17 lb. ft.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 2951
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 2952
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is a thermistor (a resistor which changes value
based on temperature) mounted in the engine coolant stream. Low coolant temperature produces a
high resistance (100,000 ohms at -40°C/-40°F) while high temperature causes low resistance (70
ohms at 130°C/266°F).
OPERATION
The PCM supplies a 5 volt signal to the engine coolant temperature sensor through a resistor in the
PCM and measures the voltage. The voltage will be high when the engine is cold, and low when
the engine is hot. By measuring the voltage, the PCM calculates the engine coolant temperature.
Engine coolant temperature affects most systems the PCM controls.
The scan tool displays engine coolant temperature in degrees. After engine start-up, the
temperature should rise steadily to about 90°C (194°F) then stabilize when thermostat opens. If the
engine has not been run for several hours (overnight) the engine coolant temperature and intake
air temperature displays should be close to each other. A hard fault in the engine coolant sensor
circuit should set DTC P0117 or DTC P0118; an intermittent fault should set a DTC P1114 or
P1115. The DTC Diagnostic Aids also contains a chart to check for sensor resistance values
relative to temperature.
The ECT sensor also contains another circuit which is used to operate the engine coolant
temperature gauge located in the instrument panel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 2953
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Relieve coolant pressure. 2. Air intake duct. 3. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 4. Remove
the electrical connector. 5. Using a deep well socket and extension, remove the sensor.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Coat engine coolant temperature sensor threads with sealer P/N 9985253 or equivalent. 2.
Install the sensor in the engine.
Tighten Sensor to 23 Nm (17 lb. ft.).
3. Install the electrical connector. 4. Air intake duct. 5. Connect the negative battery cable. 6. Start
the engine. 7. Check for leaks. 8. Check the coolant level, replenish as needed.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch > Component
Information > Diagrams
Engine Coolant Level Switch
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Temperature Gauge > Component
Information > Description and Operation
Temperature Gauge: Description and Operation
This function controls the Engine Coolant Temperature Gauge and the High Temperature indicator
(red). The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) reads the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor and
sends the information to the Body Function Controller (BFC) via Class 2 serial data link. The Body
Function Controller (BFC) converts the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) data into gauge data for
the Instrument Cluster sent via Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial data link. The Body Function
Controller (BFC) also sends the High Temperature indicator ON/OFF request to the Instrument
Cluster via the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial data link. The Instrument Cluster receives the
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor information via Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial data
link and converts it into a Temperature Gauge pointer position.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Thermostat, Engine Cooling >
Component Information > Specifications
Thermostat: Specifications
Thermostat Operating Range 85 Degrees C to 96 Degrees C
185 Degrees F to 205 Degrees F
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Thermostat, Engine Cooling >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2963
Thermostat: Description and Operation
OPERATION
The 3.1L engine uses a pellet type thermostat in the coolant outlet passage. The thermostat
provides faster engine warm up and regulates coolant temperatures. A wax pellet or power element
in the thermostat expands when heated and contracts when cooled. The valve is connected to the
power element. When the wax expands, the piston pushes against the flange and opens the
thermostat. As the pellet cools, contraction allows a spring-to close the valve. Thus, the valve
remains closed while the coolant is cold. This prevents coolant, circulation through the radiator, but
allows the coolant to circulate through the engine to warm it quickly end evenly. As the engine
becomes warm, the pellet expands and the thermostat valve opens. This lets coolant flow through
the radiator, where heat is passed through the radiator walls. This opening and closing of the
thermostat valve allows enough coolant to enter the radiator to keep the engine within specified
temperature limits. A 91°C (195°F) thermostat is used on engines where the thermostat is located
in the engine coolant outlet. On- engines where they thermostat is located in the engine coolant
inlet a 82°C (180°F) thermostat is used. Using thermostats rated above these control temperatures
is not recommended. Higher temperature thermostats will not provide faster warmup, since their
valves remain tightly, closed until the control temperature is reached, as does a lower temperature
thermostat. The thermostat must be installed with the pointed end facing toward the radiator.
Incorrect installation of the thermostat may cause the engine to overheat.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Thermostat, Engine Cooling >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2964
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Thermostat, Engine Cooling >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2965
Thermostat: Service and Repair
REMOVAL
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Drain and recover the coolant. 3. Air clearer assembly. 4. Surge tank
line from coolant outlet. 5. Coolant outlet to inlet manifold attaching bolts. 6. Coolant outlet. 7.
Thermostat. Clean
^ Inlet manifold mating surfaces.
^ Coolant outlet mating surfaces.
INSTALLATION
1. Thermostat in inlet manifold. 2. Coolant outlet to inlet manifold. 3. Attaching bolts. Tighten bolts
to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.). 4. Air cleaner assembly. 5. Surge tank line to coolant outlet. 6. Engine
coolant. 7. Negative battery cable. Tighten bolt to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.). Inspect for leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Water Pump > Component Information >
Specifications
Water Pump: Specifications
TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS
Cover-To-Block Bolts ...........................................................................................................................
........................................ 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
Pump to
Pump Cover Bolts ................................................................................................................................
................................. 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.) Pulley Bolts .......................................................................
....................................................................................................... 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Water Pump > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2969
Water Pump: Description and Operation
The water pump is used to circulate coolant throughout the engine, radiator and heater core. The
water pump is driven by the serpentine belt on 3.1L applications.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Water Pump > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2970
Water Pump: Service and Repair
REMOVAL
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Drain and recover the cooling system. 3. Serpentine belt. See Engine.
4. Water pump pulley bolts and pulley. 5. Water pump attaching bolts and pump. Clean water pump
sealing surfaces.
INSTALLATION
1. Water pump and new gasket. Tighten bolts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.). 2. Water pump pulley and
bolts. 3. Serpentine belt. See Engine. 4. Tighten water pump pulley bolts. Tighten bolt to 25 Nm (18
ft. lbs.). 5. Attach negative battery cable. Tighten bolt to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.). 6. Fill cooling system.
Inspect for leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Catalytic Converter > Component
Information > Locations
Catalytic Converter
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Catalytic Converter > Component
Information > Locations > Page 2975
Catalytic Converter: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The three way catalytic converter is an emission control device added to the gasoline engine
exhaust system to effectively reduce hydrocarbon (HC), carbon monoxide (CO) and Oxides Of
Nitrogen (NOx) emissions in the exhaust gas stream.
Heat Shields This device requires the use of heat shields, due to its high operating temperatures.
The heat shields are necessary to protect chassis components, passenger compartment and other
areas from heat related damage.
OPERATION
The converter contains a honeycomb network coated with catalytic material containing platinum,
palladium and rhodium. The catalytic material promotes burning or "oxidation" of the pollutants as
the exhaust gases pass through the converter on their way to the tailpipe. The three way
(reduction) catalyst is coated with platinum and rhodium which lowers levels of oxides of nitrogen
(NOx), in addition to the carbon monoxide and hydrocarbon levels. This catalytic material (catalyst)
in the three way converter is not serviceable.
Fillpipe Restrictor A small diameter fuel tank filler tube is used on catalytic converter equipped
vehicles to prevent the larger service station pump nozzle, used for leaded fuels, being inserted
into the filler tube. Since the use of leaded fuels contaminates the catalyst, rendering them
ineffective, the use of unleaded fuels is mandatory in catalytic converter equipped vehicles.
NOTE: When jacking or lifting vehicle from side rails, be certain the lift pads do NOT contact the
catalytic converter or damage to the converter may result.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Catalytic Converter > Component
Information > Locations > Page 2976
Catalytic Converter: Service and Repair
Catalytic Converter
Remove or Disconnect
1. Raise vehicle.
2. Support three way catalytic converter.
3. Intermediate pipe from three way catalytic converter.
4. Exhaust manifold pipe assembly from exhaust manifold.
5. Exhaust manifold and three way catalytic converter seals.
Clean Flange surfaces.
Install or Connect
1. Exhaust manifold and three way catalytic converter seals.
2. Exhaust manifold pipe assembly to exhaust manifold.
3. Intermediate pipe to three way catalytic converter.
4. Lower vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Exhaust Manifold > Component
Information > Specifications
Exhaust Manifold: Specifications
TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS
Nut .......................................................................................................................................................
................................................. 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.) Heat Shield Bolt ...................................................
............................................................................................................................. 10 Nm (89 inch
lbs.) Stud .............................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Exhaust Manifold > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 2980
Exhaust Manifold: Description and Operation
The exhaust manifolds are cast nodular iron.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Exhaust Manifold > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Left
Exhaust Manifold: Service and Repair Left
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the top half of the air cleaner assembly.
Remove the throttle body duct. 3. Partially drain the cooling system. See Cooling System. 4.
Remove the radiator hose from the thermostat housing. 5. Remove the coolant by-pass pipe at the
coolant pump and from the exhaust manifold. See Cooling System.
6. Remove the exhaust crossover heat shield.
7. Remove the exhaust crossover pipe from the manifold.
8. Disconnect the secondary ignition wires from the spark plugs.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Exhaust Manifold > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Left > Page 2983
9. Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield fasteners.
10. Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield.
11. Remove the exhaust manifold nuts. 12. Remove the exhaust manifold. 13. Clean the mating
surfaces at the cylinder head and at the exhaust manifold.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the exhaust manifold gasket. 2. Install the exhaust manifold. 3. Install the exhaust
manifold nuts. Tighten the exhaust manifold nuts to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.). 4. Install the exhaust
manifold heat shield. 5. Install the exhaust manifold heat shield nuts. Tighten the exhaust manifold
heat shield nuts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.). 6. Install the exhaust crossover pipe to the manifold. 7.
Install the exhaust crossover pipe heat shield. 8. Connect the secondary ignition wires to the spark
plugs. 9. Install the coolant by-pass pipe to the coolant pump and exhaust manifold. See Cooling
System.
10. Install the radiator hose to the coolant outlet housing. 11. Install the top half of the air cleaner
assembly. Install the throttle body duct. 12. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Exhaust Manifold > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Left > Page 2984
Exhaust Manifold: Service and Repair Right
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the top half of the air cleaner assembly.
Remove the throttle body duct.
3. Remove the exhaust crossover heat shield.
4. Remove the crossover pipe at the exhaust manifold. 5. Remove the heated oxygen sensor.
6. Remove the EGR pipe at the exhaust manifold. 7. Raise the vehicle. Support the vehicle. 8.
Remove the transmission oil level indicator and fill tube assembly. See Transmission and
Drivetrain.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Exhaust Manifold > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Left > Page 2985
9. Remove the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold.
10. Remove the exhaust pipe from the converter flange. 11. Support the converter aside. 12.
Remove the converter heat shield from the vehicle body.
13. Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield fasteners. 14. Remove the exhaust manifold heat
shield.
15. Remove the exhaust manifold nuts. 16. Remove the exhaust manifold from the bottom of the
vehicle. 17. Clean the mating surfaces at the cylinder head and at the exhaust manifold.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the exhaust manifold gasket. 2. Install the exhaust manifold. Loosely, install the heat
shield at this time. 3. Install the exhaust manifold nuts. Tighten the exhaust manifold nuts to 16 Nm
(12 ft. lbs.). 4. Install the exhaust manifold heat shield. 5. Install the exhaust manifold heat shield
nuts. Tighten the exhaust manifold heat shield nuts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.). 6. Install the converter
heat shield to the body. 7. Install the exhaust pipe to the converter flange. 8. Install the exhaust
pipe to the exhaust manifold. 9. Install the transmission oil level indicator and fill tube assembly.
See Transmission and Drivetrain.
10. Lower the vehicle. 11. Install the heated oxygen sensor. 12. Install the crossover pipe to the
exhaust manifolds. 13. Install the crossover heat shield. 14. Install the EGR pipe to the exhaust
manifold. 15. Install the top half of the air cleaner assembly. Install the throttle body duct. 16.
Connect the negative battery cable. 17. Check for exhaust leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Exhaust Pipe > Component Information
> Specifications
Exhaust Pipe: Specifications
Converter to Intermediate Pipe Bolts
........................................................................................................................................................ 34
Nm (25 ft. lbs.) Muffler Assembly to Intermediate Pipe
.................................................................................................................................................... 25
Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Exhaust Pipe > Component Information
> Specifications > Page 2989
Exhaust Pipe: Service and Repair
REMOVAL
1. Raise vehicle. 2. Support three way catalytic converter.
3. Intermediate pipe from three way catalytic converter. 4. Muffler assembly from intermediate pipe.
5. Intermediate pipe from hanger. 6. Intermediate pipe. 7. Three way catalytic converter seal.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Exhaust Pipe > Component Information
> Specifications > Page 2990
8. Intermediate pipe to muffler assembly seal. Clean flange surface.
INSTALLATION
1. Three way catalytic converter seal. 2. Intermediate pipe to muffler assembly seal. 3. Intermediate
pipe to hanger. 4. Intermediate pipe to three way catalytic converter 5. Intermediate pipe to muffler
assembly. 6. Lower vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Exhaust Pipe/Muffler Hanger >
Component Information > Specifications
Exhaust Pipe/Muffler Hanger: Specifications
Hanger Brackets ..................................................................................................................................
..................................................... 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Muffler > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Muffler: > 33-17-01A > Dec > 97 > Exhaust System - Paint Peeling from
Painted Muffler
Muffler: Customer Interest Exhaust System - Paint Peeling from Painted Muffler
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 33-17-01A
Date: December, 1997
Subject: Paint Peeling from Muffler (New Repair Paint Available)
Models: 1993-98 Passenger Cars with Painted Mufflers
This bulletin is being revised to add additional model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 33-17-01 (Section 10 - Body).
Condition
Some owners may experience paint peeling from the muffler.
Correction
Clean and repaint the affected area using the following procedure and product.
Important:
DO NOT REPLACE COMPONENTS TO REPAIR THIS CONDITION.
The exhaust system must be cold to begin this procedure.
Material Required: * Wabash Products # KB-318-HHHS, available in pints or quarts as ready to
spray material (no mixing required). Call Wabash Products, 1-800-326-7269 or 812-232-6097 for
pricing and shipping information.
Procedure
On a cold exhaust system:
1. Raise vehicle on hoist.
2. While supporting exhaust with a transmission jack, remove the rear exhaust system hangers and
lower the exhaust.
3. Clean the affected area with a wax and grease remover, lacquer thinner or other suitable
solvent.
4. Wire brush the affected area to remove flaking paint and blow off with air.
5. Sand the affected area with # 80 to 150 grit sandpaper to remove rust, dirt or other
contaminants.
6. Clean the affected area with a wax and grease remover, lacquer thinner or other suitable
solvent.
7. Tape off the rear lower body panels and exhaust pipes forward of mufflers to protect from
overspray.
8. Apply paint to affected area in several (6 to 8) thin coats (to prevent sags and runs) obtaining
approximately 1 mil paint coverage.
9. Raise exhaust system with jack, reinstall exhaust hangers, lower vehicle and remove from hoist.
^ Allow 30 minutes drying time.
10. In a well ventilated area, start engine and allow to idle for up to 30 minutes until paint is cured
and dry.
Important:
Some "smoking" will occur while curing the paint with the engine running.
The paint can be heated and cured while driving, but be careful not to get the exhaust system wet
during the first 30 minutes.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Muffler > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Muffler: > 33-17-01A > Dec > 97 > Exhaust System - Paint Peeling from
Painted Muffler > Page 3002
Labor Material
Operation Labor Time Allowance
A6150 0.6 hr - Single Exhaust GC
Add 0.2 hr - Dual Exhaust GC
Important:
While the above procedure and materials are correct for vehicles from 1993 to 1998, the Labor
Operation and Time Allowance only pertains to vehicles in the Warranty period.
* We believe this source and their equipment to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers
of such equipment. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any
responsibility for the products or equipment from these firms or for any such items which may be
available from other sources.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Muffler > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Muffler: > 33-17-01A > Dec > 97 > Exhaust System - Paint
Peeling from Painted Muffler
Muffler: All Technical Service Bulletins Exhaust System - Paint Peeling from Painted Muffler
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 33-17-01A
Date: December, 1997
Subject: Paint Peeling from Muffler (New Repair Paint Available)
Models: 1993-98 Passenger Cars with Painted Mufflers
This bulletin is being revised to add additional model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 33-17-01 (Section 10 - Body).
Condition
Some owners may experience paint peeling from the muffler.
Correction
Clean and repaint the affected area using the following procedure and product.
Important:
DO NOT REPLACE COMPONENTS TO REPAIR THIS CONDITION.
The exhaust system must be cold to begin this procedure.
Material Required: * Wabash Products # KB-318-HHHS, available in pints or quarts as ready to
spray material (no mixing required). Call Wabash Products, 1-800-326-7269 or 812-232-6097 for
pricing and shipping information.
Procedure
On a cold exhaust system:
1. Raise vehicle on hoist.
2. While supporting exhaust with a transmission jack, remove the rear exhaust system hangers and
lower the exhaust.
3. Clean the affected area with a wax and grease remover, lacquer thinner or other suitable
solvent.
4. Wire brush the affected area to remove flaking paint and blow off with air.
5. Sand the affected area with # 80 to 150 grit sandpaper to remove rust, dirt or other
contaminants.
6. Clean the affected area with a wax and grease remover, lacquer thinner or other suitable
solvent.
7. Tape off the rear lower body panels and exhaust pipes forward of mufflers to protect from
overspray.
8. Apply paint to affected area in several (6 to 8) thin coats (to prevent sags and runs) obtaining
approximately 1 mil paint coverage.
9. Raise exhaust system with jack, reinstall exhaust hangers, lower vehicle and remove from hoist.
^ Allow 30 minutes drying time.
10. In a well ventilated area, start engine and allow to idle for up to 30 minutes until paint is cured
and dry.
Important:
Some "smoking" will occur while curing the paint with the engine running.
The paint can be heated and cured while driving, but be careful not to get the exhaust system wet
during the first 30 minutes.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Muffler > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Muffler: > 33-17-01A > Dec > 97 > Exhaust System - Paint
Peeling from Painted Muffler > Page 3008
Labor Material
Operation Labor Time Allowance
A6150 0.6 hr - Single Exhaust GC
Add 0.2 hr - Dual Exhaust GC
Important:
While the above procedure and materials are correct for vehicles from 1993 to 1998, the Labor
Operation and Time Allowance only pertains to vehicles in the Warranty period.
* We believe this source and their equipment to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers
of such equipment. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any
responsibility for the products or equipment from these firms or for any such items which may be
available from other sources.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Muffler > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 3009
Muffler: Specifications
Muffler Assembly to Intermediate Pipe
.................................................................................................................................................... 25
Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Engine Controls - Service Manual Supplement Announcement
Body Control Module: Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Service Manual Supplement
Announcement
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 99-06-04-010
Date: March, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: 1997 Service Manual Supplement
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
The 1997 GMP/97-LN-2 service information has been revised to incorporate the changes
associated with the Body Function Controller (BFC). Please refer to the 1997 Service Manual
supplement (part number GMP/97-LN-UPD) for the revised service information. This supplement
provides revised diagnostic procedures and service information for the following items:
^ DTC P0630 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit
^ DTC P1601 Serial Communication Malfunction
^ DTC P1602 Class II Failure with EBCM
^ DTC P1610 Class II Failure with BFC
^ DTC P1626 No Password
^ DTC P1530 Theft Deterrent PCM in Learn Mode
^ DTC P1631 Theft Deterrent Password Incorrect
^ DTC P1632 Theft Deterrent System Fuel Disabled
^ A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit
^ A/C Compressor Clutch Control
^ Electric Cooling Fan
^ Electric Cooling Fan (Table 1)
^ Electric Cooling Fan (Table 2)
^ Electric Cooling Fan (Table 3)
^ Engine Oil Pressure Switch
^ PCM Controlled Air Conditioning
^ Electric Cooling Fan General Description
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Page 3017
Below RH Side Of I/P
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Body Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3020
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3021
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3022
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3023
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3024
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3025
Body Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3026
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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Information and Instructions > Page 3029
insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Body Control Module: Connector Views
Body Function Controller (BFC): C1
Body Function Controller (BFC): C2
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Body Function Controller (BFC): C2 (Part 1 Of 2)
Body Function Controller (BFC): C2 (Part 2 Of 2)
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Body Function Controller (BFC): C3
Body Function Controller (BFC): C3 (Part 1 Of 2)
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Body Function Controller (BFC): C3 (Part 2 Of 2)
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Body Control Module: Electrical Diagrams
Body Function Controller (Part 1 Of 4)
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Body Function Controller (Part 2 Of 4)
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Body Function Controller (Part 3 Of 4)
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Body Function Controller (Part 4 Of 4)
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Technician Safety Information
Body Control Module: Technician Safety Information
CAUTION:
^ This vehicle is equipped with Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR). Refer to Service
Precautions / Air Bags (Supplemental Restraint Systems) before performing service on or around
SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment,
personal injury, or otherwise unneeded SIR system repairs.
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Body Control Module: Vehicle Damage Warnings
Overloading Circuits
The computer system is designed to withstand normal current draws associated with vehicle
operation, however, care must be taken to avoid overloading any of these circuits. In testing for
opens or shorts, do not ground or apply voltage to any of the circuits unless instructed to do so by
the diagnostic procedures. These circuits may only be tested using the High Impedance Multimeter
(J 39200 or equivalent) if they remain connected to one of the computers. Never remove or apply
voltage to one of the computers with the Ignition Switch in the RUN position. Before removing or
connecting battery cables, fuses or connectors always turn the Ignition Switch to the OFF position.
Fastener Requirements
NOTE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for the application. General Motors will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. General Motors will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and the joint clamping
force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening
sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and
systems.
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Body Control System Operation
Body Control Module: Description and Operation Body Control System Operation
Bulb Check General Description
The bulb check function resides in the Body Function Controller (BFC). Every time the Ignition
Switch transitions from ACC to RUN, an Instrument Cluster bulb check will occur for a calibrated
amount of time for specified indicators. Bulb check will override the OFF state of the affected
indicators. The Body Function Controller (BFC) will determine which indicators to bulb check by
looking at an EEPROM table. Every Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) indicator has a bit in the
EEPROM table. The gauges will WOW during a bulb check. A WOW is when all of the gauge
indicators are moved at the same time and all indicators are lit. If there is an indicator lit before the
WOW, the indicator shall remain lit after this function has concluded.
Compressor Controls
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and Body Function Controller (BFC) share hardware and
software for control of the AC Compressor Clutch. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and the
Body Function Controller (BFC) communicate this information over the serial data Class 2 line.
The Body Function Controller (BFC) performs the following software functions:
^ Limit Low Speed Compressor Operation
^ Prevent Clutch Slippage
^ High Coolant Temperature
^ Monitor for Overpressure
^ Determine Low Ambient Pressure
^ Control Compressor Clutch
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) performs the following functions:
^ Prevent Compressor Overspeed
^ Limit Compressor Speed (in PARK or NEUTRAL)
^ Drive Compressor Clutch
^ Perform Anti-Slug (Slugging is when a mass of liquid enters the AC Compressor Pump)
Interior Lighting Control
The Body Function Controller (BFC) provides the following interior lamp control:
^ Courtesy lamps.
^ Illuminated Entry control of Courtesy Lamps.
Courtesy Lamps are enabled by the following methods:
^ By discrete input to the Body Function Controller (BFC) from the door ajar switches.
^ If any of the doors are open and the vehicle speed is less than 13 km/h (8 mp/h).
^ If the Ignition Switch has been turned OFF for less than two minutes and then the doors are
closed, the lights will stay on for 4 seconds (or until the Ignition Switch is turned to the RUN
position).
^ If the Ignition Switch has been turned OFF for more than two minutes and then the doors are
closed, the lights will stay on for 40 seconds (or until the Ignition Switch is turned to the RUN
position).
^ If the Ignition Switch has been turned OFF for less than two minutes and the Ignition Key is
removed or the doors are opened, the lights will turn on for 15 seconds (or until the Ignition Key is
re-inserted or a door open switch is cycled).
^ Remote Control Door Lock Transmitter activation of the Driver Door Unlock or the Trunk Release
(function of Illuminated entry).
When the interior lights are to be turned off because a customer is leaving the vehicle (the Ignition
Switch is turned OFF for more than two minutes), they are first step dimmed, and then theater
dimmed to the OFF state. If the Ignition Switch is turned OFF for less than two minutes the interior
lights are theater dimmed to the OFF state in four seconds. If the customer sits in the vehicle and
the interior lights have turned OFF and the customer removes the Ignition Key the interior lights will
illuminate for 15 seconds.
Volts Indicator
The Volts indicator (red) will be illuminated under the following conditions:
^ Lamp Terminal pulled low: Key On (Bulb check)
- Open Field or Regulator Circuit
- Output voltage above overvoltage set point (no control)
- Low system voltage above Engine RPM calibrated value (Undervoltage)
- Open P terminal at the Voltage Regulator, shorted positive or negative bridge diode at P terminal
Field terminal voltage
- Condition indicate a voltage regulator disconnect (Low Duty Cycle)
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will determine Engine RPM, Generator Field Duty Cycle,
Lamp Terminal State, L term disabled and send these as Class 2 messages to the Body Function
Controller (BFC). The Body Function Controller (BFC) will then dictate to the Instrument Cluster the
state of the Volts indicator and set the appropriate fault codes.
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There are four fault codes possible that will illuminate the volts indicator.
The Lamp Terminal Open/Short fault and the Field Terminal Short fault and their respective codes
can only be set and cleared with Ignition 1 active and zero engine RPM. Since the volts indicator is
illuminated with Ignition 1 active and zero engine RPM the faults that can occur under these
conditions cannot be communicated to the driver. Therefore, if either of these codes are set when
the engine is started the indicator will remain illuminated to indicate the fault. The Lamp Terminal
Open/Short program checks for a high lamp state while the Engine in not running. The Field
Terminal Short program checks for a duty cycle higher than a calibrated value while the engine is
not running. Both of these faults have a calibratable timer before setting.
The Field terminal fault and the Lamp terminal fault and their respective codes can only be set and
cleared with the engine running. The Body Function Controller (BFC) will diagnose a possible
voltage regulator disconnect (Field terminal fault) by monitoring the duty cycle and verifying it does
not fall below the calibrated value for a calibrated time. The Lamp terminal fault is set if the Lamp
terminal goes low for a calibrated time.
The volts algorithm tracks whether or not the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) has disabled the
Generator on a cold start or in a stall condition and will not set any field or lamp faults. The
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will not disable the generator for more than 10 seconds.
In the event of a Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or a Body Function Controller (BFC) Class 2 or
Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial data loss the Volts indicator will remain in its last state prior
to the loss of serial data.
Wake-Up/Asleep States
Wake-ups are signals that will turn the Body Function Controller (BFC) ON and cause it to begin
active control and/or monitoring. The Body Function Controller (BFC) is asleep when it has stopped
control or monitoring and has become idle again. The Body Function Controller (BFC) Wake-ups
are as follows:
^ Door Ajar Switches
^ Ignition Switch actuation
^ Inadvertent Power
^ Battery Guard
^ Remote Control Door Lock Receiver Driver Door Unlock actuation Trunk Release
The Body Function Controller will go to sleep and go into Battery Rundown Protection mode are as
follows:
^ Less than 24 km (15 miles), 3 minutes
^ Greater than 24 km (15 miles), 20 minutes
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Body Control Module: Description and Operation General Description
The Body Function Controller (BFC) performs the following functions:
^ A/C Compressor request
^ A/C Cooling Fan
^ Exterior and interior lighting control Daytime Running Lights (DRL)
- Automatic Lighting Control
- Fog Lamps
- Interior Lighting
^ Battery Rundown Protection
^ Chime
^ Gauge Control
^ Instrument Cluster Indicator Control
^ Theft Deterrent
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Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
Body Control Module: Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
Basic Knowledge Required
Before performing diagnosis there are some areas that you must be familiar with. Without this basic
knowledge, you will have difficulty using diagnostic procedures.
1. Basic Electrical Circuits - The basic theory of electricity is essential. An understanding of voltage,
current, resistance and their relationships to
each other will help in the diagnosis of an open or shorted circuit. You must be able to read and
understand a schematic wiring diagram.
2. Use of Circuit Testing Tools - You must know how to use jumper wires to bypass components to
test circuits. You must be familiar with the High
Impedance Multimeter (DMM - Digital Multi Meter), particularly essential tool J 39200 or equivalent.
You must be able to measure voltage, resistance, and current with the DMM you are using.
3. Use of the scan tool - You must know how to use, connect, manipulate and diagnose circuits
using this essential tool. You must be familiar with
screens and control module partitions.
Body Function Controller System Check
Diagnostic Trouble Codes Warning
IMPORTANT
Do NOT replace the Body Function Controller (BFC) unless a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)
remains Current after all DTC tables have been executed. NEVER replace the Body Function
Controller (BFC) based on History codes.
The Body Function Controller (BFC) and the Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) are
connected to the Class 2 serial data link and are capable of setting Diagnostic Trouble Codes. The
history DTC codes (a history DTC is a current DTC fault that disappears in the next ignition cycle)
can be especially useful in diagnosing an intermittent problem. An explanation of these are given
below in Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) TABLE #13.
On Vehicle Diagnostic Capabilities
Aboard this vehicle are electronic components which can be controlled by the service technician to
provide valuable self-diagnostic information. These components are part of an electrical network
designed to control various engine and body subsystems.
System sensors and switches are monitored by the computer system. These components are
^ Body Function Controller (BFC)
^ Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
^ Instrument Cluster
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^ Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
^ Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM) - Supplemental Inflatable Restraint System (CKT 800
UART)
A combination of inputs from these components, other sensors and switches go to the computers
either as discrete/analog inputs, communicated on the communications link (called the Data Line
(circuit 1807 Class 2, or circuit 800 UART) and Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) [circuit 1321, circuit
1322 and circuit 1323]) to other computers.
Visual Inspection
One of the most important checks, which must be done before any diagnostic activity, is a careful
visual inspection of suspect wiring and components. This can often lead to fixing a malfunction
without further steps. Inspect the battery hydrometer (green eye) to assure the Battery is not
discharged. Inspect all vacuum and electrical circuits for pinches, cuts or disconnects. This visual
inspection is very important. It must be done carefully and thoroughly.
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Body Control Module: Reading and Clearing Diagnostic Trouble Codes
With Scan Tool
The procedure for reading diagnostic trouble code(s) is to use a diagnostic scan tool. Read
Diagnostic Trouble Codes Using a Tech 1, Tech 2 or Other Scan Tool.
When reading DTC(s), follow instructions supplied by tool manufacturer.
Without Scan Tool
A scan tool must be used to retrieve DTCs from the PCM memory. DTCs can no longer be
retrieved by grounding terminals "A" to "B" at the Data Link Connector (DLC). This also eliminates
the PCM function of flashing Code 12. The use of a Tech 1 scan tool or equivalent will be needed
to obtain both current and history DTCs.
Failure to follow this step could result in unnecessary repairs.
With Scan Tool
NOTE: Only clear DTC's when instructed to do so. All of the diagnostic data that was saved along
with the DTC will also be erased when the code is cleared. To clear Diagnostic Trouble Codes
(DTCs), use the diagnostic scan tool, "clear DTCs" or "clear info" function.
When clearing DTCs follow instructions supplied by the tool manufacturer.
To Clear DTCs From Memory:
^ Use a scan tool (recommended) Or
^ Ignition OFF for at least 10 seconds,
^ Disconnect the negative battery cable for 30 seconds (clears status flags).
Notice: Clearing the PCM DTC memory by disconnecting the battery will clear all PCM memories.
Since some operations (particularly IAC valve idle control) are learned, it may be necessary to
partially depress the accelerator pedal when re-starting the engine after PCM memory is cleared. It
may also be necessary to release the accelerator pedal very slowly when first returning to idle, to
prevent a stall. This will allow the PCM to re-learn IAC valve position. Learned operations may be
restored by normal driving.
Without Scan Tool
NOTE: Only clear DTC's when instructed to do so. All of the diagnostic data that was saved along
with the DTC will also be erased when the code is cleared.
A scan tool should be used to clear diagnostic trouble codes. When a scan tool is not available,
DTCs can also be cleared by disconnecting one of the following sources for at least thirty (30)
seconds:
NOTE: When codes are cleared in the following manner, a short period of poor driveablity could
result while the processor goes through a relearning process.
Caution: To prevent system damage, the ignition key must be "OFF" when disconnecting or
reconnecting battery power.
^ The power source to the control module. Examples: fuse, pigtail at battery PCM connectors etc.
^ The negative battery cable. (Disconnecting the negative battery cable may result in the loss of
other on-board memory data, such as preset radio tuning).
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Body Control Module: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Bulb Check General Description
The bulb check function resides in the Body Function Controller (BFC). Every time the Ignition
Switch transitions from ACC to RUN, an Instrument Cluster bulb check will occur for a calibrated
amount of time for specified indicators. Bulb check will override the OFF state of the affected
indicators. The Body Function Controller (BFC) will determine which indicators to bulb check by
looking at an EEPROM table. Every Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) indicator has a bit in the
EEPROM table. The gauges will WOW during a bulb check. A WOW is when all of the gauge
indicators are moved at the same time and all indicators are lit. If there is an indicator lit before the
WOW, the indicator shall remain lit after this function has concluded.
Compressor Controls
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and Body Function Controller (BFC) share hardware and
software for control of the AC Compressor Clutch. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and the
Body Function Controller (BFC) communicate this information over the serial data Class 2 line.
The Body Function Controller (BFC) performs the following software functions:
^ Limit Low Speed Compressor Operation
^ Prevent Clutch Slippage
^ High Coolant Temperature
^ Monitor for Overpressure
^ Determine Low Ambient Pressure
^ Control Compressor Clutch
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) performs the following functions:
^ Prevent Compressor Overspeed
^ Limit Compressor Speed (in PARK or NEUTRAL)
^ Drive Compressor Clutch
^ Perform Anti-Slug (Slugging is when a mass of liquid enters the AC Compressor Pump)
Interior Lighting Control
The Body Function Controller (BFC) provides the following interior lamp control:
^ Courtesy lamps.
^ Illuminated Entry control of Courtesy Lamps.
Courtesy Lamps are enabled by the following methods:
^ By discrete input to the Body Function Controller (BFC) from the door ajar switches.
^ If any of the doors are open and the vehicle speed is less than 13 km/h (8 mp/h).
^ If the Ignition Switch has been turned OFF for less than two minutes and then the doors are
closed, the lights will stay on for 4 seconds (or until the Ignition Switch is turned to the RUN
position).
^ If the Ignition Switch has been turned OFF for more than two minutes and then the doors are
closed, the lights will stay on for 40 seconds (or until the Ignition Switch is turned to the RUN
position).
^ If the Ignition Switch has been turned OFF for less than two minutes and the Ignition Key is
removed or the doors are opened, the lights will turn on for 15 seconds (or until the Ignition Key is
re-inserted or a door open switch is cycled).
^ Remote Control Door Lock Transmitter activation of the Driver Door Unlock or the Trunk Release
(function of Illuminated entry).
When the interior lights are to be turned off because a customer is leaving the vehicle (the Ignition
Switch is turned OFF for more than two minutes), they are first step dimmed, and then theater
dimmed to the OFF state. If the Ignition Switch is turned OFF for less than two minutes the interior
lights are theater dimmed to the OFF state in four seconds. If the customer sits in the vehicle and
the interior lights have turned OFF and the customer removes the Ignition Key the interior lights will
illuminate for 15 seconds.
Volts Indicator
The Volts indicator (red) will be illuminated under the following conditions:
^ Lamp Terminal pulled low: Key On (Bulb check)
- Open Field or Regulator Circuit
- Output voltage above overvoltage set point (no control)
- Low system voltage above Engine RPM calibrated value (Undervoltage)
- Open P terminal at the Voltage Regulator, shorted positive or negative bridge diode at P terminal
Field terminal voltage
- Condition indicate a voltage regulator disconnect (Low Duty Cycle)
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will determine Engine RPM, Generator Field Duty Cycle,
Lamp Terminal State, L term disabled and send these as Class 2 messages to the Body Function
Controller (BFC). The Body Function Controller (BFC) will then dictate to the Instrument Cluster the
state of the Volts indicator and set the appropriate fault codes.
There are four fault codes possible that will illuminate the volts indicator.
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The Lamp Terminal Open/Short fault and the Field Terminal Short fault and their respective codes
can only be set and cleared with Ignition 1 active and zero engine RPM. Since the volts indicator is
illuminated with Ignition 1 active and zero engine RPM the faults that can occur under these
conditions cannot be communicated to the driver. Therefore, if either of these codes are set when
the engine is started the indicator will remain illuminated to indicate the fault. The Lamp Terminal
Open/Short program checks for a high lamp state while the Engine in not running. The Field
Terminal Short program checks for a duty cycle higher than a calibrated value while the engine is
not running. Both of these faults have a calibratable timer before setting.
The Field terminal fault and the Lamp terminal fault and their respective codes can only be set and
cleared with the engine running. The Body Function Controller (BFC) will diagnose a possible
voltage regulator disconnect (Field terminal fault) by monitoring the duty cycle and verifying it does
not fall below the calibrated value for a calibrated time. The Lamp terminal fault is set if the Lamp
terminal goes low for a calibrated time.
The volts algorithm tracks whether or not the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) has disabled the
Generator on a cold start or in a stall condition and will not set any field or lamp faults. The
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will not disable the generator for more than 10 seconds.
In the event of a Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or a Body Function Controller (BFC) Class 2 or
Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial data loss the Volts indicator will remain in its last state prior
to the loss of serial data.
Wake-Up/Asleep States
Wake-ups are signals that will turn the Body Function Controller (BFC) ON and cause it to begin
active control and/or monitoring. The Body Function Controller (BFC) is asleep when it has stopped
control or monitoring and has become idle again. The Body Function Controller (BFC) Wake-ups
are as follows:
^ Door Ajar Switches
^ Ignition Switch actuation
^ Inadvertent Power
^ Battery Guard
^ Remote Control Door Lock Receiver Driver Door Unlock actuation Trunk Release
The Body Function Controller will go to sleep and go into Battery Rundown Protection mode are as
follows:
^ Less than 24 km (15 miles), 3 minutes
^ Greater than 24 km (15 miles), 20 minutes
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Body Control Module: Scan Tool Testing and Procedures
System Tests
System Tests, using the Scan Tool, allow for the display of values as actually seen or commanded
by the various computers (i.e. PCM, IC, SDM, EBCM, or BFC). The Test Types available are
dependent upon the System selected, but may include the following:
^ Data (Analog Inputs) - displays analog values as seen by the system.
^ Inputs and Outputs (Digital Inputs) - displays digital values as seen by the system and provides
an indication of whether the input or output has cycled.
^ Special Functions (Output Controls) - allows for outputs of the system to be set at a desired value
(ON or OFF).
^ Clear Codes - will erase all DTCs stored for the system currently selected (Note: If the
malfunction is still present, the DTC may immediately reset).
Body Main Menu
The scan tool software is broken into major computer controller groups that are found in the body
of the vehicle.
The Body Function Controller (BFC), in addition to being an element of the Class 2 serial data link,
also has hardwired inputs as do the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Electronic Brake Control
Module (EBCM), the Instrument Cluster, and the Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM).
Some of these inputs are used to display information for the Instrument Cluster gauges and
indicators while other inputs are converted into serial data link and transmitted on the Class 2 serial
data link and the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial data link.
The Body Function Controller (BFC) is the only interface to the Instrument Cluster, the Body
Function Controller (BFC) converts Class 2 data to Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) for the
Instrument Cluster. The choice of inputs that can be read are listed in TABLE #1.
TABLE #1 - BODY MAIN MENU
Function Supplemental Inflatable Restraint Body Function Controller
Entertainment and Comfort Bus
Features Menu
Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool can navigate through various modes of information
gathering modes; Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC), Data Display, Snapshot, and Special
Functions. The Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) menu allow the technician to view the error codes
set by the Body Function Controller (BFC). The Data Display menu allows the technician to view
what the current state the various Body Function Controllers inputs and outputs. The Snapshot
menu function allows the technician to view and store the inputs as an aid in diagnosis of
multi-system faults. The Special Functions menu allows the technician to actuate the Body
Function Controller's outputs. The choice of inputs that can be read are listed in TABLE #2.
Diagnostic Trouble Code Menu
In this mode the technician is allowed to view and clear current and history Diagnostic Trouble
Codes (DTC).
Data Display Menu
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Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool allows the technician to command the Body Function
Controller (BFC) to display its various inputs, outputs, and Instrument Cluster information for ease
in diagnosis. This mode can be used to determine whether the Body Function Controller (BFC) is
receiving data correctly from the Body Function Controller (BFC) inputs, the Instrument Cluster or
the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and if the computer systems are operating properly. The
choice of inputs that can be read are listed in TABLE #3.
Module Information Menu
Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool can command the Body Function Controller (BFC) to read
from the instrument Cluster pertinent information about the Instrument Cluster (Part Number,
Calibration ID and the year of construction), the information that can be read is listed in TABLE #4.
PCM to BFC A/C Clutch Data
Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool can command the Body Function Controller (BFC) to read
its various data inputs from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). This mode can be used to
determine whether the Body Function Controller (BFC) is receiving data correctly from the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and if the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is allowing the A/C
Compressor to function. The inputs that can be read are listed in TABLE #5
Security Data
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Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool reads the Vehicle Theft Deterrent data in the Body Function
Controller (BFC). The outputs that can be viewed are listed in TABLE #9.
Data
Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool can command the Body Function Controller (BFC) to read
its various analog data inputs. This mode can be used to determine whether the Body Function
Controller (BFC) is receiving analog data correctly or if a component is operating properly. The
inputs that can be read are listed on TABLE #6.
Inputs
Description
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Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 3075
In this mode of operation, the scan tool can command the Body Function Controller (BFC) to read
its various inputs. This mode can be used to determine whether the Body Function Controller
(BFC) is receiving data correctly or if a component is operating properly. The inputs that can be
read are listed on TABLE #7.
Outputs
Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool can command the Body Function Controller (BFC) to
override its normal operation and force the Body Function Controller (BFC) to enable its outputs
(engage relays, operate Courtesy Lighting, etc). This mode can be used to determine whether the
Body Function Controller (BFC) is capable of producing a given output. The outputs that can be
controlled are listed in TABLE #8.
SPI Data
Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool can command the Instrument Cluster via Body Function
Controller (BFC) to determine proper Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) data bus operation. The data
that can be displayed is listed in TABLE #10.
BFC to Cluster Data
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Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 3076
Description
In this mode of operation the scan tool can command the Instrument Cluster, by Class 2 message
to the Body Function Controller (BFC) and via the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial data bus
to override its normal operation and force the Instrument Cluster to enable its outputs (gauges
move, indicators lit etc). This mode can be used to determine whether the Instrument Cluster is
capable of producing a given output. The outputs that can be controlled are listed in TABLE #11.
Snapshot
The SNAPSHOT function is the same one used to capture DTCs for the Powertrain Control
Module.
Special Functions Menu
Description
In this mode of operation the technician is capable of turning on and off almost all of the Body
Function Controller (BFC) outputs. The functions that can be controlled are found under the Output
Control menu. The information in TABLE #12 shows what outputs the scan tool can command.
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Function Controller (BFC) Replacement
Body Control Module: Service and Repair Body Function Controller (BFC) Replacement
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Right sound insulator. 3. BFC assembly. 4. BFC connectors in the
following order: Pink Connector C3 first, then C1 and C2.
Install or Connect
1. BFC connectors in the following order: C1, C2 and Pink connector C3 last. 2. BFC Module 3.
Right sound insulator. 4. Negative battery cable.
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair > Body
Function Controller (BFC) Replacement > Page 3079
Body Control Module: Service and Repair Body Function Controller Reprogramming Procedure
IMPORTANT
When removing the Body Function Controller (BFC) disconnect connector C3 FIRST, then
disconnect the remaining connectors. When installing the Body Function Controller (BFC) connect
connectors C1 and C2 first. ALWAYS connect connector C3 LAST.
USING A SCAN TOOL AND TECHLINE TERMINAL TO CONFIGURE THE BODY FUNCTION
CONTROLLER
1. Connect the scan tool to vehicle diagnostic connector, and choose Service Programming from
the scan tool Main Menu. 2. After entering the vehicle information, choose the Request Info soft
key on the scan tool. 3. Disconnect the scan tool from the vehicle and connect the scan tool to the
Techline Terminal. 4. At the Techline Terminal, select Service Programming System (SPS). 5.
Select Terminal to scan tool programming method. 6. Select Done and follow instructions on the
Communications Setup screen. 7. Select Program Body Function Controller. 8. Select Program at
the Summary screen. The terminal will download in formation to the Scan tool. 9. Return to the
vehicle and connect the scan tool to the diagnostic connector.
10. Select Service Programming from the scan tool Main Menu. 11. Answer the prompts regarding
model year and vehicle type. Press the Body Function Controller soft key on scan tool. The Body
Function
Controller will be programmed with the configuration file stored in the scan tool.
12. Reprogram the Theft Deterrent System. 13. Reprogram the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
14. Verify the repair.
TROUBLESHOOTING HINTS:
^ Make the following checks before beginning system diagnosis. 1. Check all fuses by visual
inspection. 2. Ensure that all connectors in system are mated correctly. 3. Check for open in Class
2 serial data link (CKT 1807). 4. Check for an open in the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial
data link (CKT 1321, 1322, 1323). 5. Do NOT replace the Body Function Controller (BFC) with only
History Codes set.
^ Check for a broken (or partially broken) wire inside of the insulation which could cause system
failure but prove GOOD in a continuity/voltage check.
^ Check for proper installation of aftermarket electronic equipment which may affect the integrity of
their systems.
^ Check that all grounds are tight and clean.
^ Refer to System Diagnosis.
SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
^ Perform the Body Function Controller (BFC) Diagnostic System Check and refer to the Symptom
Table for the appropriate diagnostic procedures.
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Function Controller (BFC) Replacement > Page 3080
Body Control Module: Service and Repair Reprogramming Procedure - Auto - Learn
The following procedure allows for anyone to reprogram the Body Function Controller (BFC)
Learned Data Code without any tools (other than the scan tool) when a new Ignition Switch,
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), and/or the BFC is installed. The following is the auto learn
procedure:
The BFC will set the DTC 3031 Controller in learn mode when entering the reprogramming
procedure.
1. Clear all DTC's 2. Turn the Ignition Switch to the START position. 3. The vehicle will start and
then stall. 4. Turn the Ignition Switch to the RUN position until the THEFT SYSTEM indicator turns
off (approximately 10 minutes). 5. Turn the Ignition Switch to the OFF position then back to the
RUN position. 6. The BFC will learn the new data on the next start attempt. 7. Reprogram the PCM
to allow the PCM to learn the new Passlock (TM) code.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 77-65-29 > Nov > 97 > Instruments - Cluster Resets When Ham Radio Is Keyed
Engine Control Module: Customer Interest Instruments - Cluster Resets When Ham Radio Is
Keyed
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-29
Date: November, 1997
Subject: Instrument Cluster Resets when On-board Ham Radio is Keyed (Replace the PCM)
Models: 1997 Buick Century, Regal 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with
310013800 V6 Engine (VINs M, K, 1 - RPOs L82, L36, L67)
Condition Some vehicles may experience an instrument cluster reset if the vehicle has an on-board
Ham radio operating under the 10 MHz frequency range and the transmitter is keyed on.
Correction A new PCM has been released to correct this condition. The new PCM has a 47 Micro
Henry choke in place to eliminate the interference generated by the on-board Ham radio
equipment.
Do not forget to transfer the Knock Sensor Module from the old PCM into the new PCM.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Code Labor Time
J6360 PCM, Replace Use Published Labor Operation Time
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Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
Engine Control Module: Customer Interest PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-17
Date: July, 1997
Subject: Unstable Engine Idle (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with 3100 V6 Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
Condition
Some owners may experience an unstable engine idle. The controlled engine idle may vary
approximately 50 RPM from desired idle. This typically occurs during an extended idle period
beyond 30 seconds with the transmission in park or neutral and the air conditioning turned off.
Cause
The Pre Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S1) voltage output is driven low and holds there
(lean). The Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2s2) voltage output will hold then at a high
voltage (rich). This can drive one sensor to cancel out the other thus not allowing fuel trim or the
Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor can take over fuel trim control. If the Post Converter
Heated Oxygen takes over fuel trim control, the system thinks it is running rich and the Long Term
Fuel Trim will make adjustments to lean the system. Either of these conditions will cause a rolling
or hunting idle.
Correction
Check the calibration identification number utilizing a scan tool device. Re-flash with the updated
calibration if the current calibration is not one listed in this bulletin. If the vehicle already has the
most recent calibration, then refer to the appropriate service repair manual to diagnose and repair.
Test drive the vehicle after repair to ensure that the condition has been corrected. The new
calibrations are available from the GM Service Technology Group starting with CD number 12 for
1997.
Important:
There are three methods for programming a PCM
1. Direct Programming. The vehicle is directly connected via the Data Link Connector (DLC) on the
Dealers/Retailers Techline equipment. (T-20 Plus, T-50 and T-60 only) Vehicle must be present.
2. Remote programming. The new program is downloaded into the Dealers/Retailers scan tool and
then downloaded into the vehicle from the scan tool via the DLC. Tech 2 required. Vehicle must be
present.
3. Off-Car Programming. A PCM may be programmed while removed from the vehicle by using the
off-board programming adapter (OBPA), P/N 41207-B. This adapter can be connected to either the
Techline Terminal for direct programming or the scan tool for remote programming. Not necessary
for the vehicle to be present.
Refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Techline Information for more detailed instructions.
Parts Information
Part Number Carline Emission
16266904 Malibu, Cutlass USA Nationwide
16266914 Malibu, Cutlass Canadian/Unleaded
Export
16266924 Malibu Leaded Export
Important:
Do not attempt to order the calibrations from GMSPO. The calibrations are programmed into the
vehicle's PCM via a Techline Tool device.
Warranty Information
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Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable Engine Idle > Page 3093
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 04-06-04-054B > Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory
Usage
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-054B
Date: November 18, 2010
Subject: Info - Non-GM Parts and Accessories (Aftermarket)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years and update to the new U.S. Fixed
Operation Manager (FOM) and Canada Warranty Manager (WM) names. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 04-06-04-054A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
The recent rise and expansion of companies selling non-GM parts and accessories has made it
necessary to issue this reminder to dealers regarding GM's policy on the use and installation of
these aftermarket components.
When a dealer is performing a repair under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty, they are required to
use only genuine GM or GM-approved parts and accessories. This applies to all warranty repairs,
special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM. Parts and accessories advertised as being "the
same" as parts manufactured by GM, but not sold through GM, do not qualify for use in warranty
repairs, special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM.
During a warranty repair, if a GM original equipment part is not available through GM Customer
Care and Aftersales (GM CC&A;), ACDelco(R) distributors, other GM dealers or approved sources,
the dealer is to obtain comparable, non-GM parts and clearly indicate, in detail, on the repair order
the circumstances surrounding why non-GM parts were used. The dealer must give customers
written notice, prior to the sale or service, that such parts or accessories are not marketed or
warranted by General Motors.
It should also be noted that dealers modifying new vehicles and installing equipment, parts and
accessories obtained from sources not authorized by GM are responsible for complying with the
National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. Certain non-approved parts or assemblies, installed
by the dealer or its agent not authorized by GM, may result in a change to the vehicle's design
characteristics and may affect the vehicle's ability to conform to federal law. Dealers must fully
understand that non-GM approved parts may not have been validated, tested or certified for use.
This puts the dealer at risk for potential liability in the event of a part or vehicle failure. If a GM part
failure occurs as the result of the installation or use of a non-GM approved part, the warranty will
not be honored.
A good example of non-authorized modification of vehicles is the result of an ever increasing
supply of aftermarket devices available to the customer, which claim to increase the horsepower
and torque of the Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines. These include the addition of, but are not limited to
one or more of the following modifications:
- Propane injection
- Nitrous oxide injection
- Additional modules (black boxes) that connect to the vehicle wiring systems
- Revised engine calibrations downloaded for the engine control module
- Calibration modules which connect to the vehicle diagnostic connector
- Modification to the engine turbocharger waste gate
Although the installation of these devices, or modification of vehicle components, can increase
engine horsepower and torque, they may also negatively affect the engine emissions, reliability
and/or durability. In addition, other powertrain components, such as transmissions, universal joints,
drive shafts, and front/rear axle components, can be stressed beyond design safety limits by the
installation of these devices.
General Motors does not support or endorse the use of devices or modifications that, when
installed, increase the engine horsepower and torque. It is because of these unknown stresses,
and the potential to alter reliability, durability and emissions performance, that GM has adopted a
policy that prevents any UNAUTHORIZED dealer warranty claim submissions to any remaining
warranty coverage, to the powertrain and driveline components whenever the presence of a
non-GM (aftermarket) calibration is confirmed - even if the non-GM control module calibration is
subsequently removed. Refer to the latest version of Bulletin 09-06-04-026 (V8 Gas Engines) or
06-06-01-007 (Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines) for more information on dealer requirements for
calibration verification.
These same policies apply as they relate to the use of non-GM accessories. Damage or failure
from the use or installation of a non-GM accessory will not be covered under warranty. Failure
resulting from the alteration or modification of the vehicle, including the cutting, welding or
disconnecting of the vehicle's original equipment parts and components will void the warranty.
Additionally, dealers will NOT be reimbursed or compensated by GM in the event of any legal
inquiry at either the local, state or federal level that
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Page 3099
results from the alteration or modification of a vehicle using non-GM approved parts or accessories.
Dealers should be especially cautious of accessory companies that claim the installation of their
product will not void the factory warranty. Many times these companies have even given direction
on how to quickly disassemble the accessory in an attempt to preclude the manufacturer from
finding out that is has been installed.
Any suspect repairs should be reviewed by the Fixed Operations Manager (FOM), and in Canada
by the Warranty Manager (WM) for appropriate repair direction. If it is decided that a goodwill repair
is to be made on the vehicle, even with the installation of such non-GM approved components, the
customer is to be made aware of General Motors position on this issue and is to sign the
appropriate goodwill documentation required by General Motors.
It is imperative for dealers to understand that by installing such devices, they are jeopardizing not
only the warranty coverage, but also the performance and reliability of the customer's vehicle.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 02-08-116-001 > Jan > 02 > PCM - Intermittent Communication or DTC Codes
Stored
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM - Intermittent Communication or DTC
Codes Stored
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 02-08-116-001
Date: January, 2002
INFORMATION
Subject: Intermittent Communication or Serial Data DTC Codes Stored in History
Models: 1997-2002 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2002 Oldsmobile Alero 1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass
1999-2002 Pontiac Grand Am with 3.1L or 3.4L Engine (VINs J, M, E - RPOs LG8, L82, LA1)
Ignition Switch Usage
It is possible to set a Serial Data DTC Code with improper usage of the ignition switch. On the
above vehicles, if the ignition key is held between the ACCESSORY and ON position for over 5
seconds, and then rotated to ON and START sequentially, it is possible to set various DTC codes.
The customer may see an illuminated Service Engine Soon, ABS and/or ETS OFF (Electronic
Traction System) telltale. The next time the ignition switch is cycled, any set DTC codes will be
stored in history and any telltales will be turned off.
Important:
If the above condition is encountered and the ETS OFF and ABS lights are illuminated, the ABS
and ETS systems will be deactivated for that key cycle. Normal functioning of these systems will
resume with the next key cycle.
Why Does This Happen?
If the ignition switch is held between the ACCESSORY and ON detent positions, it is possible to
find a spot where the Ignition 1 input will be lost. If this condition remains for over 5 seconds, the
PCM will interpret the loss of that signal as a communication fault and set an appropriate DTC
code.
How to Resolve This Issue
^ Instruct the customer on the proper operation of the ignition switch.
^ Instruct the customer not to "fiddle" with the switch. Actions such as slowly turning the key in
order to see what instrument panel displays light in what order should be discouraged.
^ Do not attempt to hold the switch between detent positions.
^ Assure the customer that no fault exists in the vehicle and that under normal operating
conditions, this concern should not reappear.
^ There are no possible software changes that will prevent the above condition.
^ Do not attempt to replace the ignition switch to remedy this condition.
^ You may clear the history codes to eliminate any later diagnostic confusion. Refer to the Tech 2
Diagnostic Scan Tool Operating Manual for specific instructions on clearing history codes.
Important:
Do not attempt any repairs on the vehicle to remedy this condition.
DISCLAIMER
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 83-81-32 > Sep > 98 > PCM Connector - Information on New Service Kits
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM Connector - Information on New
Service Kits
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-81-32
Date: September, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: New Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Connector Service Kits
Models: 1996-99 All Passenger Cars except Geo and Catera
Two new kits have been released to service the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connector If the
connector has been damaged during servicing. This PCM has an aluminum body and is usually
mounted underhood.
Kit (P/N 12167308) contains the 80 way connector body, the cover, two each of four different
terminal retainers and 25 empty cavity plugs. No terminals are included.
If terminals are needed, use P/N 12084913 for 0.35 mm and 0.50 mm wire and P/N 12084912 for
0.80 mm wire. These terminals are included in the terminal repair kit J 38125A or B, and
replacements can be ordered from Kent-Moore.
kit (P/N 12167313) contains one connector seal. Whenever the connector is unbolted from the
aluminum body of the PCM, the seal can stick to the body, or may be twisted. This seal should be
replaced whenever the connector is removed in service.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12167308 Kit, PCM Harness Repair
12167313 Seal Kit, PCM Connector
12084912 Terminal
12084913 Terminal
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 77-65-29 > Nov > 97 > Instruments - Cluster Resets When Ham Radio Is
Keyed
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Instruments - Cluster Resets When Ham
Radio Is Keyed
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-29
Date: November, 1997
Subject: Instrument Cluster Resets when On-board Ham Radio is Keyed (Replace the PCM)
Models: 1997 Buick Century, Regal 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with
310013800 V6 Engine (VINs M, K, 1 - RPOs L82, L36, L67)
Condition Some vehicles may experience an instrument cluster reset if the vehicle has an on-board
Ham radio operating under the 10 MHz frequency range and the transmitter is keyed on.
Correction A new PCM has been released to correct this condition. The new PCM has a 47 Micro
Henry choke in place to eliminate the interference generated by the on-board Ham radio
equipment.
Do not forget to transfer the Knock Sensor Module from the old PCM into the new PCM.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Code Labor Time
J6360 PCM, Replace Use Published Labor Operation Time
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-17
Date: July, 1997
Subject: Unstable Engine Idle (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with 3100 V6 Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
Condition
Some owners may experience an unstable engine idle. The controlled engine idle may vary
approximately 50 RPM from desired idle. This typically occurs during an extended idle period
beyond 30 seconds with the transmission in park or neutral and the air conditioning turned off.
Cause
The Pre Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S1) voltage output is driven low and holds there
(lean). The Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2s2) voltage output will hold then at a high
voltage (rich). This can drive one sensor to cancel out the other thus not allowing fuel trim or the
Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor can take over fuel trim control. If the Post Converter
Heated Oxygen takes over fuel trim control, the system thinks it is running rich and the Long Term
Fuel Trim will make adjustments to lean the system. Either of these conditions will cause a rolling
or hunting idle.
Correction
Check the calibration identification number utilizing a scan tool device. Re-flash with the updated
calibration if the current calibration is not one listed in this bulletin. If the vehicle already has the
most recent calibration, then refer to the appropriate service repair manual to diagnose and repair.
Test drive the vehicle after repair to ensure that the condition has been corrected. The new
calibrations are available from the GM Service Technology Group starting with CD number 12 for
1997.
Important:
There are three methods for programming a PCM
1. Direct Programming. The vehicle is directly connected via the Data Link Connector (DLC) on the
Dealers/Retailers Techline equipment. (T-20 Plus, T-50 and T-60 only) Vehicle must be present.
2. Remote programming. The new program is downloaded into the Dealers/Retailers scan tool and
then downloaded into the vehicle from the scan tool via the DLC. Tech 2 required. Vehicle must be
present.
3. Off-Car Programming. A PCM may be programmed while removed from the vehicle by using the
off-board programming adapter (OBPA), P/N 41207-B. This adapter can be connected to either the
Techline Terminal for direct programming or the scan tool for remote programming. Not necessary
for the vehicle to be present.
Refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Techline Information for more detailed instructions.
Parts Information
Part Number Carline Emission
16266904 Malibu, Cutlass USA Nationwide
16266914 Malibu, Cutlass Canadian/Unleaded
Export
16266924 Malibu Leaded Export
Important:
Do not attempt to order the calibrations from GMSPO. The calibrations are programmed into the
vehicle's PCM via a Techline Tool device.
Warranty Information
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable Engine Idle > Page 3116
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board
Program Adapter
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 73-65-13
Date: March, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Reprogramming Capability using the Off Board Programming Adapter
Models: 1993-97 Passenger Cars and Trucks (Applicable Reprogrammable Vehicles)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter >
Page 3121
The General Motors vehicles contain Electronically Reprogrammable Devices (i.e. PCM, VCM,
ECM). These vehicles cannot be programmed through PROM replacement, however service
programming capability is available through the Tech 1/1A, Tech 2 and Techline terminals via
direct or remote programming.
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has requested that all new vehicle manufacturers
ensure their dealers/retailers are aware that they are responsible for providing customers access to
reprogramming services at a reasonable cost and in a timely manner.
Although programming of controllers has become a common service practice at GM
dealers/retailers, the EPA has received reports from consumers and the aftermarket repair industry
that they were unable to purchase a new (programmed) Electronically Reprogrammable Device
(ERD) over-the-counter. As a result, on August 1, 1995, the Federal Government issued a
regulation requiring all manufacturers to make available reprogramming to the independent
aftermarket by December 1, 1997.
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter >
Page 3122
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter >
Page 3123
Today, the Off Board Programming Adapter (OBPA) is used to reprogram ERD's sold
over-the-counter. For all practical purposes, the OBPA takes the place of the vehicle when the
vehicle is not available.
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Page 3124
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter >
Page 3125
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter >
Page 3126
The list of dealerships/retailers currently own the OBPA (see Attachments 1 - 3). These locations
are equipped to provide over-the-counter preprogrammed ERD's. The hardware required to
perform reprogramming in addition to the OBPA is a Techline terminal, Tech 1/1A and associated
cables and adapters. THE TECH 2 SHOULD NOT BE USED WITH THE OBPA AT THIS TIME
BECAUSE OF INADEQUATE OBPA GROUNDING.
The current OBPA can support reprogramming on all late model General Motor's vehicles except:
^ Premium V-8's
^ 1996 Diesel Truck
^ Cadillac Catera
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter >
Page 3127
^ All 1997 programmable vehicles (requires use of the Tech 2)
A modification to the OBPA is being offered by Kent-Moore to support these additional vehicles and
to allow reprogramming using the Tech 2. The revisions to the OBPA for the Tech 2 is very
important as the Tech 2 is the only tool used for service programming for 1997 and future vehicles.
To have the modifications performed, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The revisions (part
number J 41207 REV-C) are free of charge for GM dealerships/retailers.
A dealership/retailer can purchase the OBPA by contacting Kent-Moore (part number J 41207-C).
Support on how to use the OBPA is provided by the Techline Customer Support Center (TCSC) at
(800) 828-6860 (English) or (800) 503-3222 (French).
If you need to purchase an OBPA and/or cable, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The OBPA
retails for $695.00 (includes all revisions 1-4) under part number J 41207-C.
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 676535 > Nov > 96 > PCM - New Identification Label
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM - New Identification Label
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 67-65-35
Date: November, 1996
INFORMATION
Subject: New PCM Identification Label
Models: Late 1996 and All 1997 Passenger Cars with Powertrain Control Modules (PCM)
PCM Label
Effective March 7, 1996, all 1996-1/2 and 1997 model year passenger cars received a change to
the identification label used on PCM's. Other than its appearance, these changes do not affect the
service replacement procedure of PCM's. The illustration details the changes.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 99-08-45-005 > Nov > 99 > Accessory Receptacle/Cigar
Lighter - Inoperative
Auxiliary Power Outlet: All Technical Service Bulletins Accessory Receptacle/Cigar Lighter Inoperative
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-45-005
Date: November, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Accessory Receptacle/Cigar Lighter is Inoperative (Check Aftermarket Device Plug for
Short to Ground)
Models: 1995-2000 Passenger Cars and Trucks
Condition
Some customers may comment that the cigar lighter or the accessory receptacle is inoperative; or
that the internal fuse (within the plug on an aftermarket device), blows intermittently.
Cause
Certain aftermarket devices have a newly designed power plug with an internal mini fuse. The mini
fuse may have an external terminal (which may be used to externally check the fuse). If the mini
fuse external test terminal is not recessed into the mini fuse body, it may come in contact with the
shell of the vehicle receptacle and cause the fuse (of either the vehicle or the aftermarket device),
to blow intermittently.
Correction
Test the aftermarket device plug for short to ground. The following step may be performed at the
customer's expense. As this is not a defect in material, design or workmanship of the vehicle, it
would be the owner's responsibility.
1. Place a piece of tape over the mini fuse terminal temporarily.
2. Explain to the customer that the fuse for the device must have no exposed terminals, and that
finding one would be his responsibility.
3. Refer the customer to the manufacturer of the aftermarket device for a new plug.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations
Engine Control Module: Component Locations
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)
RH Front Of Dash
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is located in the RH front of Instrument Panel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations > Page 3144
Below LH Side Of I/P, Near Steering Column
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Information and Instructions
Engine Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Information and Instructions > Page 3148
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Information and Instructions > Page 3149
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Information and Instructions > Page 3151
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Engine Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Engine Control Module: Connector Views
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Engine Control Module: Service Precautions
CAUTION: In order to prevent possible Electrostatic Discharge damage to the PCM, Do Not touch
the connector pins or the soldered components on the circuit board.
Electronic components used in the control systems are often designed in order to carry very low
voltage. Electronic components are susceptible to damage caused by electrostatic discharge. Less
than 100 volts of static electricity can cause damage to some electronic components. There are
several ways for a person to become statically charged. The most common methods of charging
are by friction and by induction. An example of charging by friction is a person sliding across a car
seat. Charging by induction occurs when a person with well insulated shoes stands near a highly
charged object and momentarily touches ground. Charges of the same polarity are drained off
leaving the person highly charged with the opposite polarity. Static charges can cause damage;
therefore, it is important to use care when handling and testing electronic components.
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Engine Control Module: Application and ID
PCM Label
*****This is a TSB Update-Bulletin No.: 67-65-35, Date: November, 1996*****
INFORMATION
Subject: New PCM Identification Label
Effective March 7, 1996, all 1996-1/2 and 1997 model year passenger cars received a change to
the identification label used on PCM's. Other than its appearance, these changes do not affect the
service replacement procedure of PCM's. The illustration details the changes.
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Engine Control Module: Description and Operation
Figure C1-1 - Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Description
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is located underhood in front of the right strut tower near the
engine coolant reservoir. It is the control center of the fuel injection system and constantly looks at
the information from various sensors and controls the systems that affect vehicle performance. It
controls the following items:
^ Fuel metering system.
^ Transaxle shifting.
^ Ignition timing.
^ On-board diagnostics for Powertrain functions.
It constantly looks at the information from various sensors, and controls the systems that affect
vehicle performance. The PCM also performs the diagnostic function of the system. It can
recognize operational problems, alert the driver through the MIL (Service Engine Soon), and store
diagnostic trouble codes which identify the problem areas to aid the technician in making repairs.
Refer to Introduction in Engine Controls for more information on using the diagnostic function of the
PCM.
For service, the PCM consists of two parts:
^ The controller (the PCM without the Knock Sensor module).
^ the Knock Sensor module.
PCM Function
The PCM supplies either 5 or 12 volts to power various sensors or switches. This is done through
resistances in the PCM which are so high in value that a test light will not light when connected to
the circuit. In some cases, even an ordinary shop voltmeter will not give an accurate reading
because its resistance is too low. Therefore, a digital voltmeter with at least 10 megohms input
impedance is required to ensure accurate voltage readings. Tool J 39200 meets this requirement.
EEPROM
The Electrically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory (EEPROM) is a permanent memory
that is physically soldered within the PCM. The EEPROM contains program and calibration
information that the PCM needs to control powertrain operation. Unlike the PROM used in certain
past applications, the EEPROM is not replaceable. If the PCM is replaced, the new PCM will need
to be programmed Techline equipment (Tech-2) containing the correct program and calibration for
the vehicle is required to program the PCM.
Knock Sensor Module
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The PCM contains a replaceable Knock Sensor (KS) module. The KS module contains the circuitry
that allows the PCM to utilize the KS signal and diagnose the KS sensor and circuitry. If the PCM is
replaced, the KS module needs to be transferred from the original PCM. If the KS module is
missing or faulty causing a continuous knock condition to be indicated, the PCM will set DTC
P0325.
Information Sensors
All of the sensors and input switches can be diagnosed using a scan tool. Following is a short
description of how the sensors and switches can be diagnosed by using a scan tool. The scan tool
can also be used to compare the values for a normal running engine with the engine you are
diagnosing.
Password Learn Procedure
In order for a theft deterrent vehicle to run, a password is communicated between the instrument
Panel Cluster (IPC) and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). If a PCM is replaced, the new PCM
needs to learn the correct password of the vehicle. When the new PCM is installed, the EEPROM
calibration is flashed into the new PCM and the vehicle will learn the new password upon initial
ignition On. If the IPC is replaced, the PCM needs to learn the new password from the IPC. The
Password learn procedure is as follows:
1. Attempt to start vehicle, then leave the ignition On. The Theft System telltale will flash for 10
minutes. 2. When the Theft System telltale stops flashing, start the vehicle. Once the vehicle is
running, the password is learned.
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Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Engine Control Module: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure
The crankshaft position system variation compensating values are stored in the PCM non-volatile
memory after a learn procedure has been performed. If the actual crankshaft position system
variation is not within the crankshaft position system variation compensating values stored in the
PCM, DTC P0300 may set refer to DTC P0300 Engine Misfire Detected. See: Computers and
Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
The Crankshaft Position System Variation Learn Procedure should be performed if any of the
following conditions are true:
^ DTC P1336 is set.
^ The PCM has been replaced.
^ The PCM has been reprogrammed.
^ The engine has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft harmonic balancer has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft position sensor has been replaced.
Important: The scan tool crankshaft position system variation learn function will be inhibited if
engine coolant temperature is less than 70°C (156°F). Allow the engine to warm to at least 70°C
(156°F) before attempting the crankshaft position system variation learn procedure.
The scan tool crankshaft position system variation learn function will be inhibited if any powertrain
DTCs other than DTC P1336 are set before or during the crankshaft position system variation learn
procedure. Diagnose and repair any DTCs if set. The crankshaft position system variation learn
function will be inhibited if the PCM detects a malfunction involving the camshaft position signal
circuit, the 3X reference circuit, or the 24X reference circuit.
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the Cam signal, refer to DTC P0341 CMP Sensor Circuit
Performance. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the 3X crank signal, refer to DTC P1374 3X Reference
Circuit. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the 24X crank signal, refer to DTC P0336 24X Reference
Signal Circuit. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
1. Set the parking brake. 2. Start the engine and allow engine coolant temperature to reach at least
70°C (158°F). 3. Turn OFF the ignition switch. 4. Select the crankshaft position variation learn
procedure from the scan tool special functions list. 5. Follow the instructions displayed on the scan
tool. If the procedure is terminated, refer to Important above for instructions. 6. Observe DTC status
for DTC P1336. 7. If the scan tool indicates that DTC P1336 ran and passed, the crankshaft
position system variation learn procedure is complete. If the scan tool
indicates DTC P1336 failed or not run, check for other DTCs. If no DTCs other than P1336 are set,
repeat the crankshaft position system variation learn procedure as necessary.
PCM Diagnosis
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Figure C1-1 - Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Important: The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is programmed into the PCM. Do not exchange
a PCM from another vehicle for testing or replacement. When replacing the PCM, the VIN must
also be programmed into the new PCM.
Because the PCM can have a failure which may affect only one circuit, follow the diagnostic
procedures to determine which circuit has a problem and where it is.
If a diagnostic chart indicates that the PCM connections or PCM is the cause of a problem and the
PCM is replaced, but does not correct the problem, one of the following may be the reason:
There is a problem with the PCM terminal connections, The diagnostic chart will say PCM
connections or PCM. The terminals may have to be removed from the connector in order to check
them properly.
^ EEPROM program is not correct for the application. Incorrect components may cause a
malfunction and may or may not set a DTC.
^ The problem is intermittent. This means that the problem is not present at the time the system is
being checked. In this case, refer to the Symptoms and make a careful physical inspection of all
components and wiring associated with the affected system. See: Computers and Control
Systems/Testing and Inspection
^ There is a shorted solenoid, relay coil, or harness. Solenoids and relays are turned on and off by
the PCM using internal electronic switches called drivers. Each driver is part of a group of seven
called Output Driver Modules. A shorted solenoid, relay coil, or harness will not damage the PCM
but will cause the solenoid or relay to be inoperative. The J 34636 tester, or equivalent, provides a
fast, accurate means of checking for a shorted coil or a short to battery voltage.
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Password Learn Procedure
Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Password Learn Procedure
In order for a theft deterrent vehicle to run, a password is communicated between the Body
Function Control (BFC) and the PCM. If a PCM is replaced, the new PCM needs to learn the
correct password of the vehicle. When the new PCM is installed, the EEPROM calibration is
flashed into the new PCM and the vehicle will learn the new password upon the initial ignition ON
cycle. If the Body Function Control (BFC) is replaced, the PCM needs to learn the new password
from the Body Function Control (BFC). The password learn procedure is as follows:
1. Attempt to the start vehicle. The vehicle will stall. 2. Leave the ignition ON until the Theft System
telltale turns off (approx.10 minutes). 3. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 4. Attempt to the start vehicle.
The vehicle will start on the this attempt. The password is now learned.
Attempting to start the vehicle by bypassing the Passlock II system or substituting parts without
performing the password learn procedure may set a DTC P1630 and P1631.
If no password is received a DTC P1610 and P1626 may be set. Refer to the applicable DTC table
if set. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Replacement
PCM Replacement/Programming (Replacement)
Notice: In order to prevent internal damage to the PCM, the ignition must be OFF when
disconnecting or reconnecting the PCM connector.
Note: Service of the PCM should normally consist of either replacement of the PCM, EEPROM
re-programming. If the diagnostic procedures call for the PCM to be replaced, the PCM should be
checked first to see if it is the correct part. DTC P0601 indicates the EEPROM programming has
malfunctioned. When DTC P0601 is obtained, re-program the EEPROM. The ignition should be
OFF for at least 10 seconds before disconnecting power to the PCM so the IAC valve has time to
move to the engine OFF position.
Removal Procedure
Important: To prevent internal PCM damage, the ignition must be off when disconnecting or
reconnecting power to PCM (for example, battery cable, PCM pigtail, PCM fuse, jumper cables,
etc.). The ignition should be OFF for at least 10 seconds before disconnecting power to the PCM
so the IAC valve has time to move to the engine OFF position.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the LH hush panel. 3. Loosen the PCM
connector screws (1).
Notice: In order to prevent possible electrostatic discharge damage to the PCM, do not touch the
connector pins or soldered components on the circuit board. Do not remove the integrated circuit
boards from the carrier.
4. Disconnect the PCM electrical connectors. 5. Remove the PCM Retainer. 6. Slide the PCM from
the PCM bracket.
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Installation Procedure
Remove the new PCM from its packaging and check the service number to make sure it is the
same number or updated number as the faulty PCM.
1. Slide the PCM into the PCM bracket. 2. Install the PCM Retainer.
Notice: In order to prevent possible electrostatic discharge damage to the PCM, do not touch the
connector pins or soldered components on the circuit board. Do not remove the integrated circuit
boards from the carrier.
3. Install the PCM electrical connectors. 4. Tighten the PCM connector screws (1). 5. Install the LH
hush panel. 6. Connect the negative battery cable.
Important: Replacement PCMs must be reprogrammed and the crankshaft position system
variation procedure must be performed. Refer to the latest Techline information for PCM
programming and Crankshaft Position System Variation Procedure. See: Computers and Control
Systems/Crankshaft Position Sensor/Testing and Inspection
7. Reprogram the PCM.
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Knock Sensor Module: Service Precautions
CAUTION: In order to prevent possible Electrostatic Discharge damage to the PCM, Do Not touch
the connector pins or the soldered components on the circuit board.
Electronic components used in the control systems are often designed in order to carry very low
voltage. Electronic components are susceptible to damage caused by electrostatic discharge. Less
than 100 volts of static electricity can cause damage to some electronic components. There are
several ways for a person to become statically charged. The most common methods of charging
are by friction and by induction. An example of charging by friction is a person sliding across a car
seat. Charging by induction occurs when a person with well insulated shoes stands near a highly
charged object and momentarily touches ground. Charges of the same polarity are drained off
leaving the person highly charged with the opposite polarity. Static charges can cause damage;
therefore, it is important to use care when handling and testing electronic components.
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Page 3199
Knock Sensor Module: Description and Operation
Knock Sensor Inside PCM
Description
The PCM contains a replaceable Knock Sensor (KS) module. The KS module contains the circuitry
that allows the PCM to utilize the KS signal and diagnose the KS sensor and circuitry. If the PCM is
replaced, the KS module needs to be transferred from the original PCM. If the KS module is
missing or faulty causing a continuous knock condition to be indicated, the PCM will set DTC
P0325.
The scan tool has four data displays available for diagnosing the KS system. The 4 displays are
described as follows:
^ KS Activity is used to monitor the input signal from the knock sensor. This counter will display
Yes while knock is being detected.
^ Knock Retard is the indication of how much the PCM is retarding the spark. The PCM will retard
spark in response to the Knock signal or the Traction Control system Desired Torque signal.
^ KS Noise Channel indicates the current voltage level being monitored on the noise channel.
DTCs P0325, P0326, and P0327 are designed to diagnose the KS module, the knock sensors, and
related wiring, so problems encountered with the KS system should set a DTC. However, if no DTC
was set but the KS system is suspect because detonation was the customer's complaint, refer to
Detonation/Spark Knock in Symptoms. See: Testing and Inspection
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Page 3200
Knock Sensor Module: Testing and Inspection
The PCM contains a replaceable Knock Sensor (KS) module. The KS module contains the circuitry
that allows the PCM to utilize the KS signal and diagnose the KS sensors and circuitry. If the KS
module is missing or faulty causing a continuous knock condition to be indicated, the PCM will set
DTC P0325.
The scan tool has four data displays available for diagnosing the KS system. The 4 displays are
described as follows:
^ KS Activity is used to monitor the input signal from the knock sensor. This counter will display
Yes while knock is being detected.
^ Knock Retard is the indication of how much the PCM is retarding the spark. The PCM will retard
spark in response to the Knock signal or the Traction Control system Desired Torque signal.
^ KS Noise Channel indicates the current voltage level being monitored on the noise channel.
DTCs P0325, P0326, and P0327 are designed to diagnose the KS module, the knock sensors, and
related wiring, so problems encountered with the KS system should set a DTC. However, if no DTC
was set but the KS system is suspect because detonation was the customer's complaint, refer to
Detonation/Spark Knock in Symptoms. See: Testing and Inspection
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Page 3201
Knock Sensor Module: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the PCM. Refer to PCM Replacement/Programming. 2. Remove the access cover from
the PCM. 3. Carefully squeeze the latches on the KS Module and carefully remove the KS Module.
Apply pressure in the direction as shown.
Installation Procedure
1. Carefully insert the KS module into the socket. 2. Carefully press down on the KS Module until
the latches catch. 3. Install the PCM access cover. 4. Install the PCM. Refer to PCM
Replacement/Programming.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Control Unit > Component Information > Diagrams
Fuel Tank Module
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Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Locations
Fuel Pump Relay: Locations
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Left Side Of Engine Compartment
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Fuel Pump Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Fuel Pump Relay: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Fuel Pump Relay: Description and Operation
FUEL PUMP ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT
When the key is first turned ON the PCM energizes the fuel pump relay for two seconds to build up
the fuel pressure quickly. If the engine is not started within two seconds, the PCM shuts the fuel
pump OFF and waits until the engine is cranked. When the engine is cranked and the RPM signal
has been detected by the PCM, the PCM supplies 12 volts to the fuel pump relay to energize the
electric in-tank fuel pump.
As a backup system to the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump can also be energized by the fuel pump
and engine oil pressure indicator switch. The normally open switch closes when oil pressure
reaches about 28 kPa (4 psi). If the fuel pump relay fails, the fuel pump and engine oil pressure
indicator switch will close and run the fuel pump.
An inoperative fuel pump relay can result in a no start condition. An inoperative fuel pump would
cause a no start condition. A fuel pump which does not provide enough pressure can result in poor
performance.
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Fuel Pump Relay: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the underhood electrical center cover. 2. Remove the fuel pump relay (1).
Installation Procedure
1. Install the fuel pump relay (1). 2. Install the underhood electrical center cover.
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Ignition Control Module: Specifications
Ignition control module screws ............................................................................................................
...................................................... 4-5 Nm (40 lb in) Fasteners securing assembly to engine
.......................................................................................................................................................... 8
Nm (70 lb in)
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Top Rear Of Engine
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Ignition Control Module: C1
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Ignition Control Module: C2
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Ignition Control Module: C3
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Ignition Control Module: Description and Operation
The ignition control module performs the following functions:
^ It determines the correct ignition coil firing sequence, based on 7x pulses. This coil sequences
occurs at start-up. After the engine is running, the module determines the sequence, and continues
triggering the ignition coils in proper sequence.
^ It sends the 3x crankcase reference (fuel control) signal to the PCM. The PCM determines engine
RPM from this signal, this signal is also used by the PCM to determine crankshaft speed for
Ignition Control (IC) spark advance calculations.
The 3X reference signal sent to the PCM by the ignition control module is an on off pulse occurring
3 times per crankshaft revolution.
Circuits Affecting Ignition Control To properly control ignition timing, the PCM relies on the following
information:
^ Engine load (manifold pressure or vacuum).
^ Atmospheric (barometric) pressure.
^ Engine temperature.
^ Intake air temperature.
^ Crankshaft position.
^ Engine speed (RPM).
The Ignition Control (IC) system consists of the following components:
^ Ignition coils.
^ Ignition control module.
^ 7x crankshaft position sensor.
^ 24X crankshaft position sensor.
^ Powertrain control module.
^ All connecting wires.
The electronic Ignition Control Module (ICM) connector terminals are identified as shown in the
Electronic Ignition System graphic. These circuits perform the following functions:
^ 3X reference high The 7x crankshaft position sensor sends a signal to the electronic ignition
control module which generates a reference pulse that is sent to the PCM. The PCM uses this
signal to calculate crankshaft position and engine speed (also used to trigger the fuel injectors).
^ 3X reference low - This wire is grounded through the ICM and assures the ground circuit has no
voltage drop between the ICM and the PCM
^ Ignition control bypass - During initial cranking, the PCM will look for synchronizing pulses from
the camshaft position sensor and the 7x crankshaft position sensor. The pulses indicate the
position of the #1 piston and the #1 intake valve. Five volts is applied to the bypass circuit at
precisely the same time these signals are received by the PCM. This generally occurs within one or
two revolutions of the crankshaft. An open or grounded bypass circuit will set a DTC P1350 and the
engine will run at base ignition timing. A small amount of spark advance is built into the ignition
control module to enhance performance.
^ Ignition Control (IC) - The PCM uses this circuit to trigger the electronic ignition control module.
The PCM uses the crankshaft reference signal to calculate the amount of spark advance needed.
^ 24X reference signal - The 24X crankshaft position sensor increases idle quality and low speed
driveability by providing better resolution at a
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calibrated RPM.
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Ignition Control Module: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Remove all the electrical connectors at the ignition control module. 2. Note position of spark plug
wires for installation 3. Remove the secondary ignition wires from ignition coils. 4. Remove the
screws securing coil assemblies to ignition control module. 5. Remove the fasteners securing
ignition control module assembly to engine. 6. Remove ignition control module.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the coils to ignition control module. 2. Install the screws.
Tighten ^
Tighten the screws to 4-5 Nm (40 lb in).
3. Install the fasteners securing assembly to engine.
Tighten ^
Tighten the fasteners to 8 Nm (70 lb in).
4. Install the spark plug wires as noted during removal. 5. Install the electrical connectors to the
ignition control module.
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Information > Locations
Top Left Side Of Engine
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor measures the amount of air which passes through the throttle
body. The PCM uses this information to determine the operating condition of the engine, to control
fuel delivery. A large quantity of air indicates acceleration, while a small quantity indicates
deceleration or idle.
The scan tool reads the MAF value and displays it in grams per second (gm/s). At idle, it should
read between 4 gm/s-7 gm/s on a fully warmed up engine. Values should change rather quickly on
acceleration, but values should remain fairly stable at any given RPM. A failure in the MAF sensor
or circuit should set DTC P0101, DTC P0102, or DTC P0103.
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove the MAF sensor electrical connector. 2. Remove the air inlet duct from the MAF sensor.
3. Remove the MAF sensor from the air filter housing.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Carefully install the MAF sensor to the air inlet grommet. 2. Install the MAF sensor to the air inlet
duct. 3. Reconnect the electrical connector.
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Camshaft Position Sensor Bolt ............................................................................................................
........................................................... 10 Nm (8 lb ft)
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3301
Top Rear Of Engine
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
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3336
Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Camshaft Position Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) sends a cam signal to the PCM which uses it as a sync
pulse to trigger the injectors in proper sequence. The CAM signal is passed through the ignition
control module. It is filtered and buffered by the ignition control module, but the signal is not
processed in any other way. The PCM uses the CAM signal to indicate the position of the #1 piston
during its power stroke. This allows the PCM to calculate true Sequential Fuel Injection (SFI) mode
of operation. If the PCM detects an incorrect CAM signal while the engine is running, DTC P0341
will set.
If the CAM signal is lost while the engine is running, the fuel injection system will shift to a
calculated sequential fuel injection mode based on the last fuel injection pulse, and the engine will
continue to run. The engine can be restarted and will run in the calculated sequential mode as long
as the fault is present with a 1 in 6 chance of injector sequence being correct. Refer to DTC P0341/
Diagnostic Trouble Code Tables for further information. See: Computers and Control
Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
Camshaft Position Sensor
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the serpentine drive belt. 3. Refer to Steering
and Suspension for removal of power steering pump assembly. 4. Remove the electrical connector.
5. Remove the bolt. 6. Remove the sensor.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the Camshaft Position Sensor.
Tighten Retaining bolt to 10 Nm (8 lb. ft.).
2. Install the electrical Connector 3. Install the power steering pump. 4. Install the serpentine drive
belt.
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Specifications > Electrical Specifications
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Electrical Specifications
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
100°C (212°F) .....................................................................................................................................
......................................................... 177 Ohms 90°C (194°F) ............................................................
................................................................................................................................... 241 Ohms 80°C
(176°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 332 Ohms 70°C (158°F) ......................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 467 Ohms 60°C
(140°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 667 Ohms 50°C (122°F) ......................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 973 Ohms 40°C
(104°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 1,459 Ohms 30°C (86°F) ........................................................................
...................................................................................................................... 2,238 Ohms 20°C
(68°F) ..................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 3,520 Ohms 10°C (50°F) ........................................................................
...................................................................................................................... 5,670 Ohms 0°C (32°F)
..............................................................................................................................................................
................................. 9,420 Ohms -10°C (14°F) ..................................................................................
.......................................................................................................... 16,180 Ohms -20°C (-4°F) .......
..............................................................................................................................................................
........................ 28,680 Ohms -30°C (-22°F) .......................................................................................
.................................................................................................... 52,700 Ohms -40°C (-40°F) ...........
..............................................................................................................................................................
................ 100,700 Ohms
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Mechanical Specifications
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
............................................................................................................................................... 23 Nm
(17 lb. ft.)
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 3343
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is a thermistor (a resistor which changes value
based on temperature) mounted in the engine coolant stream. Low coolant temperature produces a
high resistance (100,000 ohms at -40°C/-40°F) while high temperature causes low resistance (70
ohms at 130°C/266°F).
OPERATION
The PCM supplies a 5 volt signal to the engine coolant temperature sensor through a resistor in the
PCM and measures the voltage. The voltage will be high when the engine is cold, and low when
the engine is hot. By measuring the voltage, the PCM calculates the engine coolant temperature.
Engine coolant temperature affects most systems the PCM controls.
The scan tool displays engine coolant temperature in degrees. After engine start-up, the
temperature should rise steadily to about 90°C (194°F) then stabilize when thermostat opens. If the
engine has not been run for several hours (overnight) the engine coolant temperature and intake
air temperature displays should be close to each other. A hard fault in the engine coolant sensor
circuit should set DTC P0117 or DTC P0118; an intermittent fault should set a DTC P1114 or
P1115. The DTC Diagnostic Aids also contains a chart to check for sensor resistance values
relative to temperature.
The ECT sensor also contains another circuit which is used to operate the engine coolant
temperature gauge located in the instrument panel.
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Relieve coolant pressure. 2. Air intake duct. 3. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 4. Remove
the electrical connector. 5. Using a deep well socket and extension, remove the sensor.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Coat engine coolant temperature sensor threads with sealer P/N 9985253 or equivalent. 2.
Install the sensor in the engine.
Tighten Sensor to 23 Nm (17 lb. ft.).
3. Install the electrical connector. 4. Air intake duct. 5. Connect the negative battery cable. 6. Start
the engine. 7. Check for leaks. 8. Check the coolant level, replenish as needed.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications 24X Crankshaft Position Sensor
Camshaft Position Sensor Bolt ............................................................................................................
......................................................... 10 Nm (8 lb. ft.)
Crankshaft Balancer Bolt Torque [1]
...................................................................................................................................................... 150
Nm (110 lb. ft.)
[1] Apply thread sealer GM # 1052080 or equivalent to threads.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor > Page 3350
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications 7X Crankshaft Position Sensor
Crankshaft Sensor Bolt Torque ...........................................................................................................
.......................................................... 8 Nm (71 lb in.)
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Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP)
Lower Rear Of Engine
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Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) > Page 3353
Lower Front Of Engine
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Information and Instructions
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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Information and Instructions > Page 3383
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Information and Instructions > Page 3384
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Information and Instructions > Page 3385
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Information and Instructions > Page 3386
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3387
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Connector Views
7x Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
24x Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Information and Instructions > Page 3388
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and
Operation > Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 3X
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 3X
3X Reference Low
The PCM uses this signal, from the ignition control module to calculate engine speed and
crankshaft position over 1280 RPM. The PCM also uses the pulses on this circuit to initiate injector
pulses. If the PCM receives no pulses on this circuit, DTC P1374 will set and the PCM will use the
24X reference signal circuit for fuel and ignition control.
This is a ground circuit for the digital RPM counter inside the PCM, but the wire is connected to
engine ground only through the ignition control module. Although this circuit is electrically
connected to the PCM, it is not connected to ground at the PCM. The PCM compares voltage
pulses on the reference input circuits to pulses on this circuit, ignoring pulses that appear on both.
Refer to Electronic Ignition System for further information.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
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Operation > Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 3X > Page 3391
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 7X
Description
The 7x crankshaft position sensor is the other Hall-effect switch closer to the crankshaft. The
interrupter ring is a special wheel cast on the crankshaft that has seven machined slots. six of
which are equally spaced 60 degrees apart. The seventh slot is spaced 10 degrees from one of the
other slots. as the interrupter ring rotates with the crankshaft, the slots change the magnetic field.
this will cause the 7x the Hall-effect switch to ground the 3X signal voltage that is supplied by the
ignition control module. The ignition control module interprets the 7x on-off signals as an indication
of crankshaft position. The ignition control module must have the 7x signal to fire the correct
ignition coil.
Operation
The crankshaft position sensor provides a signal used by the ignition control module. The ignition
control module also uses the 7X crankshaft position sensor to generate 3X reference pulses which
the PCM uses to calculate RPM and crankshaft position Refer to Electronic Ignition System for
additional information.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and
Operation > Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 3X > Page 3392
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 24X
24X Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The 24X crankshaft position sensor (1), secured in, an aluminum mounting bracket and bolted to
the front left side of the engine timing chain cover, is partially behind the crankshaft. A 3-wire
harness connector plugs into the sensor, connecting it to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
The 24X Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor is used to improve idle spark control at engine speeds
up to approximately 1250 RPM.
OPERATION
The 24X crankshaft position sensor contains one Hall-effect switch and magnet. The magnet and
Hall-effect switch are separated by an air gap. A Hall-effect switch reacts like a solid state switch,
grounding a low current signal voltage when a magnetic field is present. When the magnetic field is
shielded from the switch by a piece of steel placed in the air gap between the magnet and the
switch, the signal voltage is not grounded. If the piece of steel (called an interrupter) is repeatedly
moved in and out of the air gap, the signal voltage will appear to go ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF.
Compared to a conventional mechanical distributor, this ON-OFF signal is similar to the signal that
a set of breaker points in the distributor would generate as the distributor shaft turned and the
points opened and closed. In the case of the electronic ignition system, the piece of steel is the
concentric interrupter ring mounted to the rear of the crankshaft balancer. The interrupter ring has
blades and windows that, with crankshaft rotation, either block the magnetic field or allow it to close
the Hall-effect switch. The Hall-effect switch produces a signal called the CKP 24X because the
interrupter ring has 24 evenly spaced blades and windows. When a CKP 24X interrupter ring
window is between the magnet and Hall-effect switch, the magnetic field will cause the CKP 24X
Hall-effect switch to ground the CKP 24X signal voltage supplied from the PCM. The CKP 24X
portion of the crankshaft position sensor produces 24 ON-OFF pulses per crankshaft revolution.
The 24X signal allows the PCM to determine a more precise crankshaft position at lower RPM.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and
Operation > Page 3393
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
The crankshaft position system variation compensating values are stored in the PCM non-volatile
memory after a learn procedure has been performed. If the actual crankshaft position system
variation is not within the crankshaft position system variation compensating values stored in the
PCM, DTC P0300 may set refer to DTC P0300 Engine Misfire Detected. See: Computers and
Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
The Crankshaft Position System Variation Learn Procedure should be performed if any of the
following conditions are true:
^ DTC P1336 is set.
^ The PCM has been replaced.
^ The PCM has been reprogrammed.
^ The engine has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft harmonic balancer has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft position sensor has been replaced.
Important: The scan tool crankshaft position system variation learn function will be inhibited if
engine coolant temperature is less than 70°C (156°F). Allow the engine to warm to at least 70°C
(156°F) before attempting the crankshaft position system variation learn procedure.
The scan tool crankshaft position system variation learn function will be inhibited if any powertrain
DTCs other than DTC P1336 are set before or during the crankshaft position system variation learn
procedure. Diagnose and repair any DTCs if set. The crankshaft position system variation learn
function will be inhibited if the PCM detects a malfunction involving the camshaft position signal
circuit, the 3X reference circuit, or the 24X reference circuit.
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the Cam signal, refer to DTC P0341 CMP Sensor Circuit
Performance. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the 3X crank signal, refer to DTC P1374 3X Reference
Circuit. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the 24X crank signal, refer to DTC P0336 24X Reference
Signal Circuit. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
1. Set the parking brake. 2. Start the engine and allow engine coolant temperature to reach at least
70°C (158°F). 3. Turn OFF the ignition switch. 4. Select the crankshaft position variation learn
procedure from the scan tool special functions list. 5. Follow the instructions displayed on the scan
tool. If the procedure is terminated, refer to Important above for instructions. 6. Observe DTC status
for DTC P1336. 7. If the scan tool indicates that DTC P1336 ran and passed, the crankshaft
position system variation learn procedure is complete. If the scan tool
indicates DTC P1336 failed or not run, check for other DTCs. If no DTCs other than P1336 are set,
repeat the crankshaft position system variation learn procedure as necessary.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement (7X)
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement (7X)
7X Crank Shaft Position (CKP) Sensor
Removal Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. 3.
Remove the CKP electrical connector. 4. Remove the CKP fastener. 5. Remove the CKP sensor
from the Engine Block. 6. if the CKP sensor is going to be re-used inspect the sensor for the
following:
6.1. Inspect the CKP sensor for wear, cracks, or leakage. Replace the O-ring if necessary. 6.2.
Lubricate the new O-ring with clean engine oil before installing
Installation Procedure
1. Install the CKP sensor to the block. 2. Install the bolt to hold the CKP sensor to the block face.
Tighten ^
Tighten the bolt to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
3. Connect the electrical connector. 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement (7X) > Page 3396
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement (24X)
24X Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the serpentine drive belt from crankshaft
pulley. 3. Raise the vehicle on hoist. 4. Remove the crankshaft harmonic balancer retaining bolt. 5.
Remove the crankshaft harmonic balancer using special tool (J 24420-B) or equivalent. 6. Note the
routing of sensor harness before removal. 7. Remove the harness retaining clip with bolt (1). 8.
Remove the sensor electrical connector. 9. Remove the sensor bolts (2).
10. Remove the sensor.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the 24X Crankshaft Position Sensor with bolts (2) and route harness as noted during
removal. 2. Install the harness retaining clip with bolt (1).
Tighten Bolts to 10 Nm (8 lb. ft.).
3. Install the sensor electrical connector. 4. Install the balancer on the crankshaft using special tool
(J 29113) or equivalent. 5. Apply thread sealer GM #1052080 or equivalent to threads of the
crankshaft harmonic balancer bolt.
Tighten Bolt to 150 Nm (110 lb. ft.).
6. Lower vehicle. 7. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > EGR Valve Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and
Operation
EGR Valve Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Linear EGR Valve
DESCRIPTION
The EGR pintle position sensor is an integral part of the EGR valve assembly. This sensor can not
be serviced separately from the EGR valve.
The PCM monitors the EGR valve pintle position input to ensure that the valve responds properly
to commands from the PCM and to detect a fault if the pintle position sensor and control circuits
are open or shorted. If the PCM detects a pintle position signal voltage outside the normal range of
the pintle position sensor, or a signal voltage that is not within a tolerance considered acceptable
for proper EGR system operation, the PCM will set DTC P1406.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Level Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure
Fuel Level Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-83-07
Date: March, 1998
Subject: Fuel Level Sensor Replacement Procedure
Models: 1997-98 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Listed in Application Chart)
INFORMATION
This bulletin is being issued to clarify that, when fuel gauge diagnosis per the Service Manual
indicates the cause to be the fuel level sensor, complete fuel sender assembly replacement is NOT
required.
Available fuel level sensor service packages are indicated in the application charts and should be
installed following applicable Service Manual procedures and those provided in the service
packages.
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Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 3404
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Level Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 3405
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Level Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 3406
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Level Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 3407
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Level Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 3408
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Level Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 3409
Parts Information
See the charts for listed for applicable part numbers. Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the tables.
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Page 3410
Fuel Level Sensor: Description and Operation
The fuel sensor is attached to the modular fuel sender assembly. As the position of the float varies
with the fuel level, the rheostat produces a variable resistance between the fuel gage and ground.
The fuel gage converts this variable resistance into the fuel level reading display on the instrument
panel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams
Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page
3414
Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation
Fuel Filter
Description
The Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor is mounted on top of the modular fuel sender. The sensor
measures the difference between the fuel vapor pressure (or vacuum) in the fuel tank and the
outside air pressure. A three wire electrical harness connects it to the Powertrain Control Module
(PCM).
Operation
The PCM supplies a 5 volt reference signal and ground to the sensor. The sensor will return a
voltage between 0.1 volts and 4.9 volts back to the PCM depending on the fuel vapor pressure in
the fuel tank. When the fuel pressure in the fuel tank is equal to the outside air pressure, such as
when the fuel cap is removed, the output voltage will be 1.3 volts to 1.7 volts.
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3415
Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Relieve the system fuel pressure. Refer to Fuel Pressure Release Procedure. 2. Drain fuel tank.
Refer to Draining Fuel Tank. 3. Remove the fuel tank. Refer to Fuel Tank. 4. Remove the electrical
connector from the fuel tank vapor pressure sensor. 5. Remove the fuel tank vapor pressure
sensor from modular fuel sender
Installation Procedure
1. Install the new fuel tank vapor pressure sensor to modular fuel sender. 2. Install the electrical
connector to fuel tank vapor pressure sensor 3. Install the fuel tank. Refer to Fuel Tank. 4. Refill
tank. 5. Install the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature Sensor > Component Information > Specifications >
Electrical Specifications
Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Electrical Specifications
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
100°C (212°F) .....................................................................................................................................
......................................................... 177 Ohms 90°C (194°F) ............................................................
................................................................................................................................... 241 Ohms 80°C
(176°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 332 Ohms 70°C (158°F) ......................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 467 Ohms 60°C
(140°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 667 Ohms 50°C (122°F) ......................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 973 Ohms 40°C
(104°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 1,459 Ohms 30°C (86°F) ........................................................................
...................................................................................................................... 2,238 Ohms 20°C
(68°F) ..................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 3,520 Ohms 10°C (50°F) ........................................................................
...................................................................................................................... 5,670 Ohms 0°C (32°F)
..............................................................................................................................................................
................................. 9,420 Ohms -10°C (14°F) ..................................................................................
.......................................................................................................... 16,180 Ohms -20°C (-4°F) .......
..............................................................................................................................................................
........................ 28,680 Ohms -30°C (-22°F) .......................................................................................
.................................................................................................... 52,700 Ohms -40°C (-40°F) ...........
..............................................................................................................................................................
................ 100,700 Ohms
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature Sensor > Component Information > Specifications >
Electrical Specifications > Page 3420
Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Mechanical Specifications Torque Valve
Torque Valve
Induction Air Sensor 44 in.lb
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
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Diagram Information and Instructions
Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3423
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3424
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
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Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Electrical Diagrams
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3457
Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Description and Operation
Operation
The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor is a thermistor which changes value based on the
temperature of air entering the engine. Low temperature produces a high resistance (100,000
ohms at -40°C (-40°F), while high temperature causes low resistance (70 ohms at 130°C (266°F).
The PCM supplies a 5 volt signal to the sensor through a resistor in the PCM and measures the
voltage. The voltage will be high when the incoming air is cold, and low when the air is hot. By
measuring the voltage, the PCM calculates the incoming air temperature. The IAT sensor signal is
used to adjust spark timing according to incoming air density.
The scan tool displays temperature of the air entering the engine, which should read close to
ambient air temperature when the engine is cold, and rise as the underhood temperature
increases. If the engine has not been run for several hours (overnight) the IAT sensor temperature
and engine coolant temperature should read close to each other. A failure in the IAT sensor circuit
should set DTC P0112 or DTC P0113.
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Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove the electrical connector. 2. Carefully grasp the sensor and with a twisting and pulling
motion, remove the IAT sensor from air intake duct.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the IAT Sensor into the hole. 2. Connect the electrical connector to the IAT Sensor.
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Front Of Engine
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Knock Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Knock Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Knock Sensor
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Knock Sensor: Description and Operation
Description
Varying octane levels in today's gasoline may cause detonation in some engines. Detonation is
caused by an uncontrolled explosion (burn) in the combustion chamber. This uncontrolled
explosion could produce a flame front opposite that of the normal flame front produced by the spark
plug. The rattling sound normally associated with detonation is the result of two or more opposing
pressures (flame fronts) colliding within the combustion chamber. Though light detonation is
sometimes considered normal, heavy detonation could result in engine damage.
To control spark knock, a Knock Sensor (KS) system is used. This system is designed to retard
spark timing to reduce spark knock in the engine. This allows the engine to use maximum spark
advance to improve driveability and fuel economy.
^ KS module.
^ Knock sensor.
Operation
The knock sensor detects abnormal vibration (spark knocking) in the engine. The sensor is
mounted in the engine block near the cylinders. The sensors produce an AC output voltage which
increases with the severity of the knock. This signal voltage is input to the PCM. The PCM then
adjusts the Ignition Control (IC) timing to reduce spark knock.
The knock sensor is used to detect engine detonation, allowing the PCM to retard Ignition Control
(IC) spark timing based on the KS signal being received. The knock sensor produces an AC signal
which rides on a 5 volts DC signal supplied by the PCM. The signal amplitude and frequency is
dependent upon the amount of knock being experienced.
The PCM determines whether knock is occurring by comparing the signal level on the KS circuit
with the voltage level on the noise channel. The noise channel allows the PCM to reject any false
knock signal by indicating the amount of normal engine mechanical noise present. Normal engine
noise varies depending on engine speed and load. If the voltage level on the KS noise channel
circuit is below the range considered normal, DTC P0327 will set, indicating a fault in the KS circuit
or one of the knock sensors. If the PCM determines that an abnormal minimum or maximum noise
level is being experienced, a DTC P0326 will set.
The PCM contains a replaceable Knock Sensor (KS) module. The KS module contains the circuitry
that allows the PCM to utilize the KS signal and diagnose the KS sensors and circuitry. If the KS
module is missing or faulty causing a continuous knock condition to be indicated, the PCM will set
DTC P0325.
The scan tool has four data displays available for diagnosing the KS system. The 4 displays are
described as follows:
^ KS Activity is used to monitor the input signal from the knock sensor. This counter will display
Yes while knock is being detected.
^ Knock Retard is the indication of how much the PCM is retarding the spark. The PCM will retard
spark in response to the Knock signal or the Traction Control system Desired Torque signal.
^ KS Noise Channel indicates the current voltage level being monitored on the noise channel.
DTCs P0325, P0326, and P0327 are designed to diagnose the KS module, the knock sensors, and
related wiring, so problems encountered with the KS system should set a DTC. However, if no DTC
was set but the KS system is suspect because detonation was the customer's complaint, refer to
Detonation/Spark Knock in Symptoms. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and
Inspection
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Knock Sensor: Testing and Inspection
The PCM contains a replaceable Knock Sensor (KS) module. The KS module contains the circuitry
that allows the PCM to utilize the KS signal and diagnose the KS sensors and circuitry. If the KS
module is missing or faulty causing a continuous knock condition to be indicated, the PCM will set
DTC P0325.
The scan tool has four data displays available for diagnosing the KS system. The 4 displays are
described as follows:
^ KS Activity is used to monitor the input signal from the knock sensor. This counter will display
Yes while knock is being detected.
^ Knock Retard is the indication of how much the PCM is retarding the spark. The PCM will retard
spark in response to the Knock signal or the Traction Control system Desired Torque signal.
^ KS Noise Channel indicates the current voltage level being monitored on the noise channel.
DTCs P0325, P0326, and P0327 are designed to diagnose the KS module, the knock sensors, and
related wiring, so problems encountered with the KS system should set a DTC. However, if no DTC
was set but the KS system is suspect because detonation was the customer's complaint, refer to
Detonation/Spark Knock in Symptoms. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and
Inspection
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Knock Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise the vehicle. 3. Remove the knock sensor wiring
harness connector from knock sensor. 4. Remove the knock sensor from engine block.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
NOTE: Do Not apply thread sealant to sensor threads. The sensor is coated at factory and applying
additional sealant will affect the sensors ability to detect detonation.
1. Install the knock sensor into engine block. 2. Install the knock sensor wiring harness connector
to the knock sensor. 3. Lower the vehicle. 4. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
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Diagram Information and Instructions
Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3531
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3533
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3534
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
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Page 3537
Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Description and Operation
MAP Sensor Service
Description
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor responds to changes in intake manifold pressure
(vacuum). The MAP sensor signal voltage to the PCM varies from below 2 volts at idle (high
vacuum) to above 4 volts with the key ON, engine not running or at wide-open throttle (low
vacuum).
Operation
The MAP sensor is used to determine manifold pressure changes while the linear EGR flow test
diagnostic is being run (refer to DTC P0401 in DTC Tables), to determine engine vacuum level for
other diagnostics and to determine barometric pressure (BARO). See: Computers and Control
Systems/Testing and Inspection
If the PCM detects a voltage that is lower than the possible range of the MAP sensor, DTC P0107
will be set. A signal voltage higher than the possible range of the sensor will set DTC P0108. An
intermittent low or high voltage will set DTC P1107 or P1106 respectively.
The PCM can also detect a shifted MAP sensor. The PCM compares the MAP sensor signal to a
calculated MAP based on throttle position and various engine load factors. If the PCM detects a
MAP signal that varies excessively above or below the calculated value, DTC P0106 will set.
The PCM updates the MAP sensor reading at each 3X reference pulse. If the 3X reference pulse is
lost the PCM will only update the MAP sensor once per ignition cycle and will retain that value until
the next ignition cycle. Depending on the retained MAP sensor value, the PCM will set the
appropriate high voltage DTC or low voltage DTC.
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Page 3538
Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Service and Repair
MAP Sensor Service
Removal Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. The Fuel Injector harness is attached to the MAP
Sensor bracket. Disconnect the Fuel Injector Harness from the MAP Sensor. 3. Remove the
bolt/screws (2). 4. Remove the electrical connector. 5. Remove the inlet vacuum hose. 6. Remove
the MAP sensor from the bracket.
Installation Procedure
1. Installation the inlet vacuum hose. 2. Connect the electrical connector. 3. Position the MAP
sensor to bracket and drive bolt/screws (2) securely seated and not stripped. 4. Connect the Fuel
Injector harness to the MAP Sensor bracket. 5. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Oil Level Sensor For ECM > Component Information > Specifications
Oil Level Sensor For ECM: Specifications
Engine Oil Level Switch .......................................................................................................................
............................................. 17-27 Nm (13-20 lb ft)
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3542
Oil Level Sensor For ECM: Description and Operation
Engine Oil Level Sensor
The PCM monitors the Engine Oil Level Sensor signal at start-up to determine if engine oil level is
OK. If the PCM determines that a low oil level condition exists, the PCM will illuminate the Low Oil
Level indicator lamp.
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3543
Oil Level Sensor For ECM: Service and Repair
Engine Oil Level Sensor
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. 2. Drain the engine oil. 3. Disconnect the electrical connector from Engine Oil
Level Switch 4. Remove the Engine Oil Level Switch from the oil pan.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the Engine Oil Level Switch.
Tighten Switch to 17-27 Nm (13-20 lb. ft.).
2. Lower the vehicle. 3. Add the engine oil to the correct level.
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Front Of Engine
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Oil Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 3547
Engine Oil Pressure Sensor
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Oxygen Sensor - Locations in Various Exhaust Systems
Oxygen Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Oxygen Sensor - Locations in Various Exhaust
Systems
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 67-65-40
Date: March, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Pictorial of Oxygen Sensor Designations in Various Exhaust Systems Configurations
Models: 1996-97 Passenger Cars, Geos and Trucks
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Pictorials of the designation of oxygen sensors in General Motors vehicles.
There has been some confusion relative to OBD II oxygen sensor designation. The intent of this
bulletin is to eliminate misdiagnosis of those oxygen sensors due to misidentification. When using
Section 6E of the Service Manual, this chart can help locate the appropriate bank and sensor for
the diagnostic.
For "V" engines; BANK 1 is always on the side of the engine with the number 1 cylinder (odd
cylinders), and BANK 2 is always on the side of the engine where the number 2 cylinder (even
cylinders) is located.
Just a reminder, the OBD II P-codes, technician observations and customer comments are all to be
recorded on the repair order in accordance with article 1.6.2G of the GM Service Policies and
Procedures Manual.
Use the approved labor operation for the sensors replaced. J 6372 is used for engine out sensors.
Labor Operation J 6380 is for the pre-sensor (the sensor just in front of the catalytic converter) and
the post sensor (the sensor behind the catalytic converter).
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Page 3555
Oxygen Sensor: Specifications
Heated Oxygen Sensor .......................................................................................................................
............................................... 42 +/- 4 Nm (31 lb. ft.)
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Bulletin Update
Oxygen Sensor: Locations Technical Service Bulletin Update
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 67-65-40
Date: March, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Pictorial of Oxygen Sensor Designations in Various Exhaust Systems Configurations
Models: 1996-97 Passenger Cars, Geos and Trucks
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Bulletin Update > Page 3558
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Bulletin Update > Page 3559
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Technical Service
Bulletin Update > Page 3560
Pictorials of the designation of oxygen sensors in General Motors vehicles.
There has been some confusion relative to OBD II oxygen sensor designation. The intent of this
bulletin is to eliminate misdiagnosis of those oxygen sensors due to mis-identification. When using
Section 6E of the Service Manual, this chart can help locate the appropriate bank and sensor for
the diagnostic.
For "V" engines; BANK 1 is always on the side of the engine with the number 1 cylinder (odd
cylinders), and BANK 2 is always on the side of the engine where the number 2 cylinder (even
cylinders) is located.
Just a reminder, the OBD II P-codes, technician observations and customer comments are all to be
recorded on the repair order in accordance with article 1.6.2G of the GM Service Policies and
Procedures Manual.
Use the approved labor operation for the sensors replaced. J 6372 is used for engine out sensors.
Labor Operation J 6380 is for the pre-sensor (the sensor just in front of the catalytic converter) and
the post sensor (the sensor behind the catalytic converter).
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Bulletin Update > Page 3561
Center Of Passenger Compartment, Under Vehicle
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Top Rear Of Engine
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and Instructions
Oxygen Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Oxygen Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Oxygen Sensor: Connector Views
Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 2)
Pre Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 1)
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Oxygen Sensor: Electrical Diagrams
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Control Oxygen Sensors
Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Fuel Control Oxygen Sensors
Description
The Precatalyst Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 1) is mounted in the exhaust manifold where it can
monitor the oxygen content of the exhaust gas stream. The oxygen present in the exhaust gas
reacts with the sensor to produce a voltage output. This voltage should constantly fluctuate from
approximately 100mV (high oxygen content - lean mixture) to 900mV (low oxygen content - rich
mixture). The heated oxygen sensor voltage can be monitored with a scan tool. By monitoring the
voltage output of the oxygen sensor, the PCM calculates what fuel mixture command to give to the
injectors (lean mixture-low HO2S voltage = rich command, rich mixture-high HO2S voltage = lean
command).
Operation
The HO2S 1 circuit, if open, should set a DTC P0134 and the scan tool will display a constant
voltage between 400 - 500mV. A constant voltage below 300mV in the sensor circuit (circuit
grounded) should set DTC P0131, while a constant voltage above 800mV in the circuit should set
DTC P0132. A fault in the HO2S 1 heater circuit should cause DTC P0135 to set. The PCM can
also detect HO2S response problems. If the response time of an HO2S is determined to be too
slow, the PCM will store a DTC that indicates degraded HO2S performance.
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Control Oxygen Sensors > Page 3600
Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Heated Oxygen Sensor 2 (HO2S 2) Catalyst Monitor
Function
The catalyst monitor sensors operate the same as the fuel control sensors. Although the HO2S 2
sensors' main function is catalyst monitoring, it also plays a limited role in fuel control. If the sensor
output indicates a voltage either above or below the 450 millivolt bias voltage for an extended
period of time, the PCM will make a slight adjustment to fuel trim to ensure that fuel delivery is
correct for catalyst monitoring.
A problem with the HO2S 2 signal circuit should set DTC P0137, P0138 or P0140, depending on
the specific condition. A fault in the heated oxygen sensor heater element or its ignition feed or
ground will result in slower oxygen sensor response. This may cause erroneous Catalyst monitor
diagnostic results. A fault in the HO2S 2 heater circuit should cause DTC P0141 to set.
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Page 3601
Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
Caution: The heated oxygen sensor may be difficult to remove when engine temperature is below
48°C (120°F). Excessive force may damage threads in exhaust manifold or exhaust pipe.
1. If HO2S 2 is being replaced, raise the vehicle. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector.
Important: A special anti-seize compound is used on the heated oxygen sensor threads The
compound consists of graphite suspended in fluid and glass beads. The graphite will burn away,
but the glass beads will remain, making the sensor easier to remove. New or service sensors will
already have the compound applied to the threads. If a sensor is removed from an engine and if for
any reason is to be reinstalled, the threads must have anti-seize compound applied before
reinstallation.
3. Carefully back out the heated oxygen sensor.
Installation Procedure
1. Coat the threads of heated oxygen sensor/catalyst monitor with anti-seize compound PIN
5613695, or equivalent if necessary. 2. Install the Heated Oxygen Sensor.
Tighten ^
Tighten the HO2S 1 (Pre-catalytic converter) to 42 +/- 4 N.m (31 lb ft).
^ Tighten the HO2S 2 (Post-catalytic converter) to 42 +/- 4 N.m (31 lb ft).
3. Connect the electrical connector.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Throttle Position Sensor: Specifications
Throttle position sensor screws [1]
............................................................................................................................................................
2.0 Nm (18 lb in.)
1. Install the two TP sensor attaching screws, using a thread-locking compound on the screws.
Loctite® 262, GM Part No. 1052624, or equivalent should be used.
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3605
Top Left Side Of Engine
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Information and Instructions
Throttle Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Throttle Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Information and Instructions > Page 3639
Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
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Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The Throttle Position (TP) sensor is a potentiometer connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle
body. By monitoring the voltage on the signal line, the PCM calculates throttle position. As the
throttle valve angle is changed (accelerator pedal moved), the TP sensor signal also changes. At a
closed throttle position, the output of the TP sensor is low. As the throttle valve opens the TP
sensor voltage increases so that at Wide Open Throttle (WOT), the TP sensor voltage should be
above 4 volts. The PCM calculates fuel delivery based on throttle valve angle (driver demand).
A broken or loose TP sensor may cause intermittent bursts of fuel from an injector and unstable
idle because the PCM thinks the throttle is moving. A hard failure in the TP sensor 5 volts reference
or signal circuits should set either a DTC P0122 or DTC P0123, and P1350. A hard failure with the
TP sensor ground circuit may set DTCs P0123 and P0117. Once a DTC is set, the PCM will use an
artificial default value based on engine RPM and mass air flow for throttle position and some
vehicle performance will return. A high idle may result when either DTC P0122 or DTC P0123 is
set.
The PCM can detect intermittent TP sensor faults. DTC P1121 or DTC P1122 will set if an
intermittent high or low circuit failure is being detected. The PCM can also detect a shifted TP
sensor. The PCM monitors throttle position and compares the actual TP sensor reading to a
predicted TP value calculated from engine speed. If the PCM detects an out of range condition,
DTC P0121 will be set.
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Throttle Position Sensor: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the TP sensor electrical connector. 2. Remove the 2 TP sensor attaching screws. 3.
Remove the TP sensor.
Installation Procedure
1. With the throttle valve in the normal closed idle position, install the TP sensor on the throttle
body assembly. 2. Install the 2 TP sensor attaching screws, using a thread-locking compound on
the screws. Loctite 262, GM Part No. 1052624, or equivalent should
be used.
Tighten ^
Tighten the TP sensor attaching screws to 2.0 Nm (18 lb in).
3. Install the TP sensor electrical connector.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 >
A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
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Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 >
A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 3650
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 >
A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 3651
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A >
Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A >
Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 3657
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A >
Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 3658
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 3659
Valid Input Combinations
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1
Transaxle Range Switch: C1
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Diagrams > C1 > Page 3662
Transaxle Range Switch: C2
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 3663
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Description and Operation
Valid Input Combinations
DESCRIPTION
The Transaxle Range Switch is part of the Transaxle Park/Neutral Position (PNP) switch mounted
on the transaxle manual shaft. The 4 inputs from the transaxle range switch indicate to the PCM
which position is selected by the Transaxle selector lever. This information is used for transmission
shift control, ignition timing, EVAP canister purge, EGR and Idle Air Control (IAC) valve operation.
The combination of the four transaxle range input states determine the PCM commanded shift
pattern.
The input voltage level at the PCM is high (B+) when the transaxle range switch is open and low
when the switch is closed to ground. The state of each input is represented on the scan tool as
X=high voltage level, O=low voltage level. The four parameters represent transaxle range switch
Parity, A, B, and C inputs respectively.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 3664
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 3665
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 3666
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift linkage. 3. Electrical connector. 4. Mounting bolts. 5. Switch
assembly.
REPLACEMENT - USING OLD SWITCH
Install Or Connect 1. Place shift shaft in NEUTRAL. 2. Align flats of shift shaft with switch. 3.
Mounting bolts, loosely. 4. Insert J 41545 and rotate switch until tool drops into position.
Tighten Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Remove Or Disconnect 1. J 41545.
IMPORTANT: After switch adjustment, verify that engine will only start in PARK or NEUTRAL. If engine will start
in any other position, readjust switch.
REPLACEMENT - USING NEW SWITCH
Install Or Connect 1. Place shift shaft in NEUTRAL. 2. Align flats of shift shaft to flats in switch and
install switch assembly. 3. Mounting bolts. 4. Insert tool J 41545 and rotate switch until tool drops
into position.
Tighten Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Important: After switch installation verify that engine will only start in PARK or NEUTRAL. If engine will start in
any other position, readjust switch using Replacement - Using Old Switch procedure.
Adjust 1. Place transaxle control shifter assembly in the NEUTRAL notch in detent plate. 2. Loosen
switch attaching bolts. 3. Rotate switch on shifter assembly to align J 41545.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 3667
Tighten -
Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
4. Remove J 41545.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS
Circuits
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 73-81-32
Date: May, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 8A - Electrical Diagnosis - New Diagnostic Tables for Vehicle Speed Sensor
Signal Circuit
Models: 1996-97
Buick Skylark
1996 Chevrolet Beretta, Corsica
1996-97 Chevrolet Cavalier
1997 Chevrolet Malibu
1996-97 Oldsmobile Achieva
1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
1996-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire
This bulletin is being issued to add new diagnostic tables to Section 8A of the Service Manual.
The tables included describe the diagnostic procedures for the diagnosis of the Vehicle Speed
Sensor signal circuit from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to auxiliary devices. Please insert
the included diagnostic tables into the Electrical Diagnosis Instrument Cluster section (Cell 80 J/L/N cars; Cell 81 L/N cars) of the Service Manual.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 3672
8A - 1 - 1 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 3673
8A - 1 - 2 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 3674
8A - 1 - 3 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 3675
8A - 1 - 4 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 3676
8A - 1 - 5 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 3677
8A - 1 - 6 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 3678
8A - 1 - 7 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 3679
8A - 1 - 8 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 3680
8A - 1 - 9 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 3681
8A - 1 - 10 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 3682
8A - 1 - 11 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 3683
8A - 1 - 12 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 3684
8A - 1 - 13 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 3685
8A - 1 - 14 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 3686
8A - 1 - 15 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 3687
8A - 1 - 16 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 3688
8A - 1 - 17 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 3689
8A - 1 - 18 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 3690
8A - 1 - 19 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 3691
8A - 1 - 20 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 3692
8A - 1 - 21 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 3693
8A - 1 - 22 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 3694
8A - 1 - 23 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 3695
8A - 1 - 24 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 3696
8A - 1 - 25 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 3697
8A - 1 - 26 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 3698
8A - 1 - 27 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 3699
8A - 1 - 28 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 3700
Rear Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Information and Instructions > Page 3703
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3704
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3705
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3706
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3707
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Description and Operation
The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) sends a pulsing voltage signal to the PCM which the PCM
convents to miles per hour. This sensor mainly controls the operation of the TCC, shift solenoids,
and cruise control systems. There are several different types of vehicle speed sensors. Refer to
Automatic Transmission/Transaxle for further information.
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise and support vehicle. 2. Electrical connector. 3. Bolt holding speed sensor. 4. Vehicle
speed sensor from case extension. 5. O-ring from vehicle speed sensor.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. O-ring onto vehicle speed sensor. 2. Vehicle speed sensor into case extension. 3. Bolt.
Tighten Bolt to 11 Nm (97 inch lbs.).
4. Electrical connector. 5. Lower vehicle.
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EGR Valve Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Linear EGR Valve
DESCRIPTION
The EGR pintle position sensor is an integral part of the EGR valve assembly. This sensor can not
be serviced separately from the EGR valve.
The PCM monitors the EGR valve pintle position input to ensure that the valve responds properly
to commands from the PCM and to detect a fault if the pintle position sensor and control circuits
are open or shorted. If the PCM detects a pintle position signal voltage outside the normal range of
the pintle position sensor, or a signal voltage that is not within a tolerance considered acceptable
for proper EGR system operation, the PCM will set DTC P1406.
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Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component
Information > Locations
Top Left Side Of Engine
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor measures the amount of air which passes through the throttle
body. The PCM uses this information to determine the operating condition of the engine, to control
fuel delivery. A large quantity of air indicates acceleration, while a small quantity indicates
deceleration or idle.
The scan tool reads the MAF value and displays it in grams per second (gm/s). At idle, it should
read between 4 gm/s-7 gm/s on a fully warmed up engine. Values should change rather quickly on
acceleration, but values should remain fairly stable at any given RPM. A failure in the MAF sensor
or circuit should set DTC P0101, DTC P0102, or DTC P0103.
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove the MAF sensor electrical connector. 2. Remove the air inlet duct from the MAF sensor.
3. Remove the MAF sensor from the air filter housing.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Carefully install the MAF sensor to the air inlet grommet. 2. Install the MAF sensor to the air inlet
duct. 3. Reconnect the electrical connector.
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Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor
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and Operation
Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The fuel pump and engine oil pressure indicator switch has two functions, to indicate low engine oil
pressure and to supply battery voltage to the fuel pump in the event the fuel pump relay fails.
OPERATION
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) checks the engine oil pressure continuously. If the oil
pressure switch indicates low oil pressure at any time, the PCM will send information through serial
data to the instrument cluster to turn "ON" the "Low Oil Pressure" telltale.
The oil pressure portion of the switch has normally closed contacts that open on an increasing oil
pressure of 41 kPa (6 psi) or less, and close on a decreasing pressure of 14 (2 psi). When the
switch is closed, the oil pressure signal is sent to the PCM, which in turn sends the information to
the instrument cluster through serial data. The oil pressure lamp on the instrument cluster is then
illuminated.
The fuel pump portion of the switch has a normally open contact that closes when increasing oil
pressure of 41 kPa (6 psi) or less, and opens when decreasing pressure of 14 (2 psi). In the event
the fuel pump relay fails, battery voltage is supplied to the fuel pump through the closed contacts
from the switch.
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Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Service and Repair
Engine Oil Pressure Switch
Removal Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise the vehicle. 3. Disconnect the electrical
connector from the engine oil pressure sensor. 4. Remove the engine oil pressure sensor.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the engine oil pressure sensor. 2. Tighten the oil pressure sensor to 16 Nm. 3. Connect
the electrical connector to the engine oil pressure sensor. 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Reconnect the
negative battery cable.
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Throttle Position Sensor: Specifications
Throttle position sensor screws [1]
............................................................................................................................................................
2.0 Nm (18 lb in.)
1. Install the two TP sensor attaching screws, using a thread-locking compound on the screws.
Loctite® 262, GM Part No. 1052624, or equivalent should be used.
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3793
Top Left Side Of Engine
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Throttle Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Throttle Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
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Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The Throttle Position (TP) sensor is a potentiometer connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle
body. By monitoring the voltage on the signal line, the PCM calculates throttle position. As the
throttle valve angle is changed (accelerator pedal moved), the TP sensor signal also changes. At a
closed throttle position, the output of the TP sensor is low. As the throttle valve opens the TP
sensor voltage increases so that at Wide Open Throttle (WOT), the TP sensor voltage should be
above 4 volts. The PCM calculates fuel delivery based on throttle valve angle (driver demand).
A broken or loose TP sensor may cause intermittent bursts of fuel from an injector and unstable
idle because the PCM thinks the throttle is moving. A hard failure in the TP sensor 5 volts reference
or signal circuits should set either a DTC P0122 or DTC P0123, and P1350. A hard failure with the
TP sensor ground circuit may set DTCs P0123 and P0117. Once a DTC is set, the PCM will use an
artificial default value based on engine RPM and mass air flow for throttle position and some
vehicle performance will return. A high idle may result when either DTC P0122 or DTC P0123 is
set.
The PCM can detect intermittent TP sensor faults. DTC P1121 or DTC P1122 will set if an
intermittent high or low circuit failure is being detected. The PCM can also detect a shifted TP
sensor. The PCM monitors throttle position and compares the actual TP sensor reading to a
predicted TP value calculated from engine speed. If the PCM detects an out of range condition,
DTC P0121 will be set.
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Throttle Position Sensor: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the TP sensor electrical connector. 2. Remove the 2 TP sensor attaching screws. 3.
Remove the TP sensor.
Installation Procedure
1. With the throttle valve in the normal closed idle position, install the TP sensor on the throttle
body assembly. 2. Install the 2 TP sensor attaching screws, using a thread-locking compound on
the screws. Loctite 262, GM Part No. 1052624, or equivalent should
be used.
Tighten ^
Tighten the TP sensor attaching screws to 2.0 Nm (18 lb in).
3. Install the TP sensor electrical connector.
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Camshaft Position Sensor Bolt ............................................................................................................
........................................................... 10 Nm (8 lb ft)
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Top Rear Of Engine
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Camshaft Position Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) sends a cam signal to the PCM which uses it as a sync
pulse to trigger the injectors in proper sequence. The CAM signal is passed through the ignition
control module. It is filtered and buffered by the ignition control module, but the signal is not
processed in any other way. The PCM uses the CAM signal to indicate the position of the #1 piston
during its power stroke. This allows the PCM to calculate true Sequential Fuel Injection (SFI) mode
of operation. If the PCM detects an incorrect CAM signal while the engine is running, DTC P0341
will set.
If the CAM signal is lost while the engine is running, the fuel injection system will shift to a
calculated sequential fuel injection mode based on the last fuel injection pulse, and the engine will
continue to run. The engine can be restarted and will run in the calculated sequential mode as long
as the fault is present with a 1 in 6 chance of injector sequence being correct. Refer to DTC P0341/
Diagnostic Trouble Code Tables for further information. See: Computers and Control
Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
Camshaft Position Sensor
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the serpentine drive belt. 3. Refer to Steering
and Suspension for removal of power steering pump assembly. 4. Remove the electrical connector.
5. Remove the bolt. 6. Remove the sensor.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the Camshaft Position Sensor.
Tighten Retaining bolt to 10 Nm (8 lb. ft.).
2. Install the electrical Connector 3. Install the power steering pump. 4. Install the serpentine drive
belt.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications 24X Crankshaft Position Sensor
Camshaft Position Sensor Bolt ............................................................................................................
......................................................... 10 Nm (8 lb. ft.)
Crankshaft Balancer Bolt Torque [1]
...................................................................................................................................................... 150
Nm (110 lb. ft.)
[1] Apply thread sealer GM # 1052080 or equivalent to threads.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications 7X Crankshaft Position Sensor
Crankshaft Sensor Bolt Torque ...........................................................................................................
.......................................................... 8 Nm (71 lb in.)
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Sensor (CKP)
Lower Rear Of Engine
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Sensor (CKP) > Page 3878
Lower Front Of Engine
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Instructions > Page 3904
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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Instructions > Page 3905
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Instructions > Page 3906
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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Instructions > Page 3907
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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Instructions > Page 3908
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Instructions > Page 3909
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Instructions > Page 3910
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Instructions > Page 3911
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 3912
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Connector Views
7x Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
24x Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
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Instructions > Page 3913
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
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Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 3X
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 3X
3X Reference Low
The PCM uses this signal, from the ignition control module to calculate engine speed and
crankshaft position over 1280 RPM. The PCM also uses the pulses on this circuit to initiate injector
pulses. If the PCM receives no pulses on this circuit, DTC P1374 will set and the PCM will use the
24X reference signal circuit for fuel and ignition control.
This is a ground circuit for the digital RPM counter inside the PCM, but the wire is connected to
engine ground only through the ignition control module. Although this circuit is electrically
connected to the PCM, it is not connected to ground at the PCM. The PCM compares voltage
pulses on the reference input circuits to pulses on this circuit, ignoring pulses that appear on both.
Refer to Electronic Ignition System for further information.
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Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 3X > Page 3916
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 7X
Description
The 7x crankshaft position sensor is the other Hall-effect switch closer to the crankshaft. The
interrupter ring is a special wheel cast on the crankshaft that has seven machined slots. six of
which are equally spaced 60 degrees apart. The seventh slot is spaced 10 degrees from one of the
other slots. as the interrupter ring rotates with the crankshaft, the slots change the magnetic field.
this will cause the 7x the Hall-effect switch to ground the 3X signal voltage that is supplied by the
ignition control module. The ignition control module interprets the 7x on-off signals as an indication
of crankshaft position. The ignition control module must have the 7x signal to fire the correct
ignition coil.
Operation
The crankshaft position sensor provides a signal used by the ignition control module. The ignition
control module also uses the 7X crankshaft position sensor to generate 3X reference pulses which
the PCM uses to calculate RPM and crankshaft position Refer to Electronic Ignition System for
additional information.
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Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 3X > Page 3917
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 24X
24X Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The 24X crankshaft position sensor (1), secured in, an aluminum mounting bracket and bolted to
the front left side of the engine timing chain cover, is partially behind the crankshaft. A 3-wire
harness connector plugs into the sensor, connecting it to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
The 24X Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor is used to improve idle spark control at engine speeds
up to approximately 1250 RPM.
OPERATION
The 24X crankshaft position sensor contains one Hall-effect switch and magnet. The magnet and
Hall-effect switch are separated by an air gap. A Hall-effect switch reacts like a solid state switch,
grounding a low current signal voltage when a magnetic field is present. When the magnetic field is
shielded from the switch by a piece of steel placed in the air gap between the magnet and the
switch, the signal voltage is not grounded. If the piece of steel (called an interrupter) is repeatedly
moved in and out of the air gap, the signal voltage will appear to go ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF.
Compared to a conventional mechanical distributor, this ON-OFF signal is similar to the signal that
a set of breaker points in the distributor would generate as the distributor shaft turned and the
points opened and closed. In the case of the electronic ignition system, the piece of steel is the
concentric interrupter ring mounted to the rear of the crankshaft balancer. The interrupter ring has
blades and windows that, with crankshaft rotation, either block the magnetic field or allow it to close
the Hall-effect switch. The Hall-effect switch produces a signal called the CKP 24X because the
interrupter ring has 24 evenly spaced blades and windows. When a CKP 24X interrupter ring
window is between the magnet and Hall-effect switch, the magnetic field will cause the CKP 24X
Hall-effect switch to ground the CKP 24X signal voltage supplied from the PCM. The CKP 24X
portion of the crankshaft position sensor produces 24 ON-OFF pulses per crankshaft revolution.
The 24X signal allows the PCM to determine a more precise crankshaft position at lower RPM.
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3918
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
The crankshaft position system variation compensating values are stored in the PCM non-volatile
memory after a learn procedure has been performed. If the actual crankshaft position system
variation is not within the crankshaft position system variation compensating values stored in the
PCM, DTC P0300 may set refer to DTC P0300 Engine Misfire Detected. See: Computers and
Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
The Crankshaft Position System Variation Learn Procedure should be performed if any of the
following conditions are true:
^ DTC P1336 is set.
^ The PCM has been replaced.
^ The PCM has been reprogrammed.
^ The engine has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft harmonic balancer has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft position sensor has been replaced.
Important: The scan tool crankshaft position system variation learn function will be inhibited if
engine coolant temperature is less than 70°C (156°F). Allow the engine to warm to at least 70°C
(156°F) before attempting the crankshaft position system variation learn procedure.
The scan tool crankshaft position system variation learn function will be inhibited if any powertrain
DTCs other than DTC P1336 are set before or during the crankshaft position system variation learn
procedure. Diagnose and repair any DTCs if set. The crankshaft position system variation learn
function will be inhibited if the PCM detects a malfunction involving the camshaft position signal
circuit, the 3X reference circuit, or the 24X reference circuit.
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the Cam signal, refer to DTC P0341 CMP Sensor Circuit
Performance. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the 3X crank signal, refer to DTC P1374 3X Reference
Circuit. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the 24X crank signal, refer to DTC P0336 24X Reference
Signal Circuit. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
1. Set the parking brake. 2. Start the engine and allow engine coolant temperature to reach at least
70°C (158°F). 3. Turn OFF the ignition switch. 4. Select the crankshaft position variation learn
procedure from the scan tool special functions list. 5. Follow the instructions displayed on the scan
tool. If the procedure is terminated, refer to Important above for instructions. 6. Observe DTC status
for DTC P1336. 7. If the scan tool indicates that DTC P1336 ran and passed, the crankshaft
position system variation learn procedure is complete. If the scan tool
indicates DTC P1336 failed or not run, check for other DTCs. If no DTCs other than P1336 are set,
repeat the crankshaft position system variation learn procedure as necessary.
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Position Sensor Replacement (7X)
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement (7X)
7X Crank Shaft Position (CKP) Sensor
Removal Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. 3.
Remove the CKP electrical connector. 4. Remove the CKP fastener. 5. Remove the CKP sensor
from the Engine Block. 6. if the CKP sensor is going to be re-used inspect the sensor for the
following:
6.1. Inspect the CKP sensor for wear, cracks, or leakage. Replace the O-ring if necessary. 6.2.
Lubricate the new O-ring with clean engine oil before installing
Installation Procedure
1. Install the CKP sensor to the block. 2. Install the bolt to hold the CKP sensor to the block face.
Tighten ^
Tighten the bolt to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
3. Connect the electrical connector. 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Position Sensor Replacement (7X) > Page 3921
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement (24X)
24X Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the serpentine drive belt from crankshaft
pulley. 3. Raise the vehicle on hoist. 4. Remove the crankshaft harmonic balancer retaining bolt. 5.
Remove the crankshaft harmonic balancer using special tool (J 24420-B) or equivalent. 6. Note the
routing of sensor harness before removal. 7. Remove the harness retaining clip with bolt (1). 8.
Remove the sensor electrical connector. 9. Remove the sensor bolts (2).
10. Remove the sensor.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the 24X Crankshaft Position Sensor with bolts (2) and route harness as noted during
removal. 2. Install the harness retaining clip with bolt (1).
Tighten Bolts to 10 Nm (8 lb. ft.).
3. Install the sensor electrical connector. 4. Install the balancer on the crankshaft using special tool
(J 29113) or equivalent. 5. Apply thread sealer GM #1052080 or equivalent to threads of the
crankshaft harmonic balancer bolt.
Tighten Bolt to 150 Nm (110 lb. ft.).
6. Lower vehicle. 7. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition
Technical Service Bulletin # 99-08-49-008 Date: 990701
Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-49-008
Date: July, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Chime Sounds When Key Is Removed from Ignition, Intermittent Operation of Power Door
Locks, Keyless Entry, Steering Column Lock or Memory Seats (Inspect/Replace Lock Cylinder
Actuator or Lock Cylinder Assembly)
Models: 1991-99 Chevrolet Corvette, Malibu 1997-99 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1998-99 Oldsmobile
Intrigue 1999 Oldsmobile Alero 1999 Pontiac Grand Am
This Bulletin is being revised to add additional symptoms and conditions. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 83-83-20 (Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical)
Condition Some customers may comment that the key warning chime continues to sound after the
ignition key has been removed from the ignition lock cylinder. They may also comment that the
automatic power door locks will not lock the doors when the key is removed from the ignition lock
cylinder and the warning chime is sounding.
On Corvette models, some customers may comment that there is an intermittent operation of the
passive keyless entry system, the steering column lock, or the retracting feature of the memory
power seat option when exiting the vehicle.
Cause The actuator, located in the ignition lock cylinder, may be sticking after the key is removed.
Correction Remove the ignition lock cylinder for the instrument panel using the following
procedures. Once removed from the vehicle, use the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test
Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to determine the correct repair procedure.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description Application
All Models
12450483 Actuator Listed Above
12458191 Lock Service Package All, (Except Corvette
12458190 Lock Service Package Corvette Only
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
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3931
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Malibu and Cutlass Models
Malibu and Cutlass Models - Lock Cylinder
Removal
Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
dis8ble the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the lock cylinder bezel.
3. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
5. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
6. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
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3932
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Malibu and Cutlass Models - Lock Cylinder
Installation
Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the lock cylinder bezel.
5. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
6. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Alero and Grand AM Models
Alero and Grand Am Models - Lock Cylinder
Removal
Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the shift knob/handle (Alero Only).
3. Remove the console shifter trim plate (Alero Only). See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the lock cylinder bezel.
5. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
7. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
8. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Alero and Grand Am Models - Lock Cylinder
Installation
Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, Insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the lock cylinder bezel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
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Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page
3933
5. Install the console shifter trim plate (Alero Only). See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Install the shift knob/handle (Alero Only).
7. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
8. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Intrigue Models
Intrigue Models - Lock Cylinder Removal Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SiR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SiR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the left side instrument panel insulator. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section
of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
3. Remove the console trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
5. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
6. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
7. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Intrigue Models - Lock Cylinder Installation Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the console trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
5. Install the left side instrument panel insulator. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of
Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
7. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Corvette Models
Corvette Models - Lock Cylinder Removal Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the console. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in
the Service Manual.
3. Remove the instrument panel accessory trim plate. See the instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the lock cylinder.
5. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page
3934
6. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Corvette Models - Lock Cylinder Installation Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Connect the electrical connector to the lock cylinder.
3. Install the instrument panel accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the console. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in
the Service Manual.
5. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
Actuator Type Identification
With the key installed, hold the lock cylinder as shown in Figure 2 to determine what type of
actuator is being used. FOLLOW THE APPROPRIATE TEST PROCEDURE FOR THE TYPE OF
ACTUATOR BEING USED.
Test Procedure - New and Early Design Actuator
Test Procedure
Early Design Actuator:
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page
3935
1. With the lock cylinder held vertically as shown in Figure 3, remove the key from the lock. When
the key is removed, the actuator should drop down in the lock cylinder approximately 4-5 mm (3/16
in). Repeat this step several times.
2. If the EARLY design actuator in the lock cylinder does NOT drop down, replace the complete
lock assembly.
3. If the EARLY design actuator in the lock cylinder DOES drop down, replace the actuator with the
new design actuator P/N 12450483.
To replace the actuator, install the key in the lock and grasp the end of the actuator with a pair of
small long nose (needle nose) pliers and pull firmly. With the key still in the lock, install the new
actuator by aligning the actuator shaft with the opening in the lock cylinder and pushing the
actuator into place. Verify the correct actuator operation by performing Step 1 again.
Important:
After installing a new actuator, correct actuator operation must be confirmed.
New Design Actuator:
1. With the lock cylinder held vertically as shown in Figure 3, remove the key from the lock. When
the key is removed, the actuator should drop down in the lock cylinder approximately 4-5 mm (3/16
in). Repeat this step several times.
2. If the NEW design actuator in the lock cylinder does NOT drop down, replace the lock cylinder
assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
Technical Service Bulletin # 73-01-09 Date: 971001
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 73-01-09
Date: October, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tumblers for Cylinder Recoding, Revised Repair Procedures for Inoperative Ignition
Cylinders (Seized/Won't Rotate), Labor Operation/Time Allowances
Models: 1995-97 Buick Skylark, Riviera 1995-97 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997 Chevrolet Corvette,
Malibu, Venture 1995-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora, Cutlass, Silhouette
1995-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T Models 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC G, M/L Vans 1996-97
Oldsmobile Bravada
The information in this bulletin concerns new designed tumblers for recoding lock cylinders that use
double sided reversible keys, revised procedures for servicing ignition lock cylinders that are seized
or not able to rotate and revised labor time guide information and allowances.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 3940
The existing labor operation (E7200) has been changed to include "Add" conditions for cylinders
that will not rotate.
New Tumblers
New tumblers are available from GMSPO for recoding lock cylinders that use double-sided
reversible keys. These new tumblers should be used immediately and information about the
disposition of original tumblers will be provided by GMSPO. Figure 1 shows the new tumbler
profile. The shaded area was part of the original tumbler profile, and is removed on the new
tumblers. The new part numbers for the tumblers are as follows:
Part No. 2852732 = Tumbler # 1
Part No. 2852733 = Tumbler # 2
Part No. 2852734 = Tumbler # 3
Part No. 2852735 = Tumbler # 4
Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
New Procedures For Seized/Won't Rotate Column Mounted Ign. CYL.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 3941
A. On G, J and N Models:
DO NOT REMOVE THE STEERING COLUMN as indicated in the Service Manual procedure.
1. Remove the tilt lever, upper and lower column covers.
2. Drill hole in module housing as indicated in the illustration using a short drill bit (1/8" followed by
9/32") and 90 degree drill motor or go degree drill attachment to break or access the retaining
spring for the lock cylinder button, see Figure 2.
3. Using a pick or needle nose pliers, remove the retaining spring from the hole.
4. Using pliers, grasp and remove the retaining button for the cylinder.
5. Remove the cylinder from the housing.
6. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
7. Install the new cylinder and reinstall the steering column components.
B. On U, W, and light duty trucks, follow the Service Manual procedure for keys missing, or
cylinders won't rotate.
Procedure: Instrument Panel Mounted Switches
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 3942
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 01-08-49-020 > Dec > 01 > Ignition Lock
Cylinder/Switch - Replacement Revision
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Lock Cylinder/Switch Replacement Revision
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 01-08-49-020
Date: December, 2001
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Revised Ignition Lock Cylinder or Ignition Switch Assembly Replacement
Models: 1996-1998 Buick Skylark 1997-2002 Chevrolet Malibu 1996-1998 Oldsmobile Achieva
1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999-2002 Oldsmobile Alero 1996-2002 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin is being issued to revise the Lock Cylinder Replacement procedure and the Ignition
Switch Assembly Replacement procedure in the Steering Wheel and Column or Instrument Panel,
Gages and Console sub-section of the Service Manual. Please replace the current information in
the Service Manual with the following information.
The following information has been updated within SI2000 for 1998-2002. If you are using a paper
version of this Service Manual, please make a reference to this bulletin on the affected page.
The above mentioned Service Manuals omitted information regarding performing the Passlock
Relearn or Autolearn procedure after an ignition lock cylinder or ignition switch assembly has been
replaced. If you have replaced either of these components, refer to the following procedures:
For 1996-1998 Grand Am, Achieva, Skylark and 1997-98 Malibu and Cutlass paper Service
Manuals, refer to Changing VTD Components in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
For 1998-2000 Malibu, 1998-99 Cutlass, 1999-2000 Alero and Grand Am information in SI2000,
refer to Passlock Reprogramming Autolearn in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
For 2001-2002 Malibu, Alero and Grand Am, refer to Programming Theft Deterrent System
Components in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds
When Key is Removed From Ignition
Technical Service Bulletin # 99-08-49-008 Date: 990701
Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-49-008
Date: July, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Chime Sounds When Key Is Removed from Ignition, Intermittent Operation of Power Door
Locks, Keyless Entry, Steering Column Lock or Memory Seats (Inspect/Replace Lock Cylinder
Actuator or Lock Cylinder Assembly)
Models: 1991-99 Chevrolet Corvette, Malibu 1997-99 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1998-99 Oldsmobile
Intrigue 1999 Oldsmobile Alero 1999 Pontiac Grand Am
This Bulletin is being revised to add additional symptoms and conditions. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 83-83-20 (Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical)
Condition Some customers may comment that the key warning chime continues to sound after the
ignition key has been removed from the ignition lock cylinder. They may also comment that the
automatic power door locks will not lock the doors when the key is removed from the ignition lock
cylinder and the warning chime is sounding.
On Corvette models, some customers may comment that there is an intermittent operation of the
passive keyless entry system, the steering column lock, or the retracting feature of the memory
power seat option when exiting the vehicle.
Cause The actuator, located in the ignition lock cylinder, may be sticking after the key is removed.
Correction Remove the ignition lock cylinder for the instrument panel using the following
procedures. Once removed from the vehicle, use the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test
Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to determine the correct repair procedure.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description Application
All Models
12450483 Actuator Listed Above
12458191 Lock Service Package All, (Except Corvette
12458190 Lock Service Package Corvette Only
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds
When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 3952
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Malibu and Cutlass Models
Malibu and Cutlass Models - Lock Cylinder
Removal
Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
dis8ble the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the lock cylinder bezel.
3. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
5. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
6. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds
When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 3953
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Malibu and Cutlass Models - Lock Cylinder
Installation
Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the lock cylinder bezel.
5. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
6. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Alero and Grand AM Models
Alero and Grand Am Models - Lock Cylinder
Removal
Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the shift knob/handle (Alero Only).
3. Remove the console shifter trim plate (Alero Only). See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the lock cylinder bezel.
5. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
7. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
8. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Alero and Grand Am Models - Lock Cylinder
Installation
Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, Insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the lock cylinder bezel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds
When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 3954
5. Install the console shifter trim plate (Alero Only). See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Install the shift knob/handle (Alero Only).
7. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
8. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Intrigue Models
Intrigue Models - Lock Cylinder Removal Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SiR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SiR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the left side instrument panel insulator. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section
of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
3. Remove the console trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
5. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
6. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
7. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Intrigue Models - Lock Cylinder Installation Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the console trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
5. Install the left side instrument panel insulator. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of
Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
7. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Corvette Models
Corvette Models - Lock Cylinder Removal Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the console. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in
the Service Manual.
3. Remove the instrument panel accessory trim plate. See the instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the lock cylinder.
5. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds
When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 3955
6. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Corvette Models - Lock Cylinder Installation Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Connect the electrical connector to the lock cylinder.
3. Install the instrument panel accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the console. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in
the Service Manual.
5. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
Actuator Type Identification
With the key installed, hold the lock cylinder as shown in Figure 2 to determine what type of
actuator is being used. FOLLOW THE APPROPRIATE TEST PROCEDURE FOR THE TYPE OF
ACTUATOR BEING USED.
Test Procedure - New and Early Design Actuator
Test Procedure
Early Design Actuator:
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Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds
When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 3956
1. With the lock cylinder held vertically as shown in Figure 3, remove the key from the lock. When
the key is removed, the actuator should drop down in the lock cylinder approximately 4-5 mm (3/16
in). Repeat this step several times.
2. If the EARLY design actuator in the lock cylinder does NOT drop down, replace the complete
lock assembly.
3. If the EARLY design actuator in the lock cylinder DOES drop down, replace the actuator with the
new design actuator P/N 12450483.
To replace the actuator, install the key in the lock and grasp the end of the actuator with a pair of
small long nose (needle nose) pliers and pull firmly. With the key still in the lock, install the new
actuator by aligning the actuator shaft with the opening in the lock cylinder and pushing the
actuator into place. Verify the correct actuator operation by performing Step 1 again.
Important:
After installing a new actuator, correct actuator operation must be confirmed.
New Design Actuator:
1. With the lock cylinder held vertically as shown in Figure 3, remove the key from the lock. When
the key is removed, the actuator should drop down in the lock cylinder approximately 4-5 mm (3/16
in). Repeat this step several times.
2. If the NEW design actuator in the lock cylinder does NOT drop down, replace the lock cylinder
assembly.
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised
Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
Technical Service Bulletin # 73-01-09 Date: 971001
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 73-01-09
Date: October, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tumblers for Cylinder Recoding, Revised Repair Procedures for Inoperative Ignition
Cylinders (Seized/Won't Rotate), Labor Operation/Time Allowances
Models: 1995-97 Buick Skylark, Riviera 1995-97 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997 Chevrolet Corvette,
Malibu, Venture 1995-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora, Cutlass, Silhouette
1995-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T Models 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC G, M/L Vans 1996-97
Oldsmobile Bravada
The information in this bulletin concerns new designed tumblers for recoding lock cylinders that use
double sided reversible keys, revised procedures for servicing ignition lock cylinders that are seized
or not able to rotate and revised labor time guide information and allowances.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
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Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised
Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 3961
The existing labor operation (E7200) has been changed to include "Add" conditions for cylinders
that will not rotate.
New Tumblers
New tumblers are available from GMSPO for recoding lock cylinders that use double-sided
reversible keys. These new tumblers should be used immediately and information about the
disposition of original tumblers will be provided by GMSPO. Figure 1 shows the new tumbler
profile. The shaded area was part of the original tumbler profile, and is removed on the new
tumblers. The new part numbers for the tumblers are as follows:
Part No. 2852732 = Tumbler # 1
Part No. 2852733 = Tumbler # 2
Part No. 2852734 = Tumbler # 3
Part No. 2852735 = Tumbler # 4
Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
New Procedures For Seized/Won't Rotate Column Mounted Ign. CYL.
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised
Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 3962
A. On G, J and N Models:
DO NOT REMOVE THE STEERING COLUMN as indicated in the Service Manual procedure.
1. Remove the tilt lever, upper and lower column covers.
2. Drill hole in module housing as indicated in the illustration using a short drill bit (1/8" followed by
9/32") and 90 degree drill motor or go degree drill attachment to break or access the retaining
spring for the lock cylinder button, see Figure 2.
3. Using a pick or needle nose pliers, remove the retaining spring from the hole.
4. Using pliers, grasp and remove the retaining button for the cylinder.
5. Remove the cylinder from the housing.
6. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
7. Install the new cylinder and reinstall the steering column components.
B. On U, W, and light duty trucks, follow the Service Manual procedure for keys missing, or
cylinders won't rotate.
Procedure: Instrument Panel Mounted Switches
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised
Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 3963
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock Remove/Install Procedure
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install
Procedure
File In Section: 8 Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 63-83-16A
Date: May, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 8C - New Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder Remove/Install Procedure
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
This bulletin is being revised to add an "Important" statement to Step 9 regarding the procedure if
an ignition key or key code is not available. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 63-83-16
(Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical).
This bulletin is being issued to add the remove/install procedure for the ignition switch lock cylinder
in Section 8C of the Service Manual (GMP/97-LN-1). Please insert the following information in the
instrument Panel, Gauges and Console section of the Service Manual.
IGNITION SWITCH LOCK CYLINDER (Refer to Figure 26 in the Service Manual)
The ignition key is needed to properly remove the ignition switch lock cylinder from the ignition
switch. If the ignition key or key code is unavailable, follow the instructions in the "Important"
statement after Step 9 of "Remove or Disconnect".
Procedure
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable.
2. Disable SIR system. Refer to Disabling SIR in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
3. Ignition switch trim ring.
4. Accessory trim plate. Refer to Accessory Trim Plate in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
5. Upper steering column cover. Refer to Steering Column Covers in Steering Wheel and Column On Vehicle Service in Section 3F of the Service Manual.
6. Instrument cluster trim plate. Refer to Cluster Trim Plate in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
7. Instrument cluster. Refer to Instrument Panel Cluster in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
8. Ignition switch assembly bolts.
9. Ignition switch assembly electrical connectors.
Important:
If the ignition key or key code is not available or the ignition cylinder will not rotate, use the
following procedure to drill a hole in the switch and remove the cylinder. It "Pass Lock" equipped,
there is no need to disconnect prior to cylinder removal.
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock Remove/Install Procedure > Page 3968
a. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 1.
b. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
c. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
d. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
e. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch body and check the cylinder code, see Figure
2.
f. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
g. Install the new cylinder by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the "ON" position and
pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release button slightly as it
passes by the 9/32' hole previously drilled in the housing.
10. Ignition lock cable from ignition switch assembly.
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock Remove/Install Procedure > Page 3969
11. Ignition switch assembly from vehicle.
12. Insert key into ignition switch cylinder and rotate to the RUN position.
13. Press the cylinder release plunger (located at the 4 o'clock position) on the ignition switch
assembly.
14. Pull cylinder from ignition switch with key.
Install or Connect
1. Cylinder to ignition switch, verify engagement and operation with key.
2. Ignition switch assembly to vehicle.
3. Ignition lock cable to ignition switch assembly, verify engagement.
4. Ignition switch assembly electrical connectors, verify engagement.
5. Ignition switch assembly bolts.
6. Instrument cluster.
7. Instrument cluster trim plate.
8. Upper steering column cover.
9. Accessory trim plate.
10. Ignition switch trim ring.
11. Enable SIR system. Refer to Enabling SIR in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
12. Negative battery cable.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
Cylinder, Ignition Use published
E7200 Lock - R & R or labor operation
Replace time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 01-08-49-020 > Dec > 01 > Ignition Lock
Cylinder/Switch - Replacement Revision
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Lock Cylinder/Switch Replacement Revision
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 01-08-49-020
Date: December, 2001
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Revised Ignition Lock Cylinder or Ignition Switch Assembly Replacement
Models: 1996-1998 Buick Skylark 1997-2002 Chevrolet Malibu 1996-1998 Oldsmobile Achieva
1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999-2002 Oldsmobile Alero 1996-2002 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin is being issued to revise the Lock Cylinder Replacement procedure and the Ignition
Switch Assembly Replacement procedure in the Steering Wheel and Column or Instrument Panel,
Gages and Console sub-section of the Service Manual. Please replace the current information in
the Service Manual with the following information.
The following information has been updated within SI2000 for 1998-2002. If you are using a paper
version of this Service Manual, please make a reference to this bulletin on the affected page.
The above mentioned Service Manuals omitted information regarding performing the Passlock
Relearn or Autolearn procedure after an ignition lock cylinder or ignition switch assembly has been
replaced. If you have replaced either of these components, refer to the following procedures:
For 1996-1998 Grand Am, Achieva, Skylark and 1997-98 Malibu and Cutlass paper Service
Manuals, refer to Changing VTD Components in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
For 1998-2000 Malibu, 1998-99 Cutlass, 1999-2000 Alero and Grand Am information in SI2000,
refer to Passlock Reprogramming Autolearn in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
For 2001-2002 Malibu, Alero and Grand Am, refer to Programming Theft Deterrent System
Components in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
Disclaimer
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Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock Remove/Install Procedure
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install
Procedure
File In Section: 8 Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 63-83-16A
Date: May, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 8C - New Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder Remove/Install Procedure
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
This bulletin is being revised to add an "Important" statement to Step 9 regarding the procedure if
an ignition key or key code is not available. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 63-83-16
(Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical).
This bulletin is being issued to add the remove/install procedure for the ignition switch lock cylinder
in Section 8C of the Service Manual (GMP/97-LN-1). Please insert the following information in the
instrument Panel, Gauges and Console section of the Service Manual.
IGNITION SWITCH LOCK CYLINDER (Refer to Figure 26 in the Service Manual)
The ignition key is needed to properly remove the ignition switch lock cylinder from the ignition
switch. If the ignition key or key code is unavailable, follow the instructions in the "Important"
statement after Step 9 of "Remove or Disconnect".
Procedure
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable.
2. Disable SIR system. Refer to Disabling SIR in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
3. Ignition switch trim ring.
4. Accessory trim plate. Refer to Accessory Trim Plate in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
5. Upper steering column cover. Refer to Steering Column Covers in Steering Wheel and Column On Vehicle Service in Section 3F of the Service Manual.
6. Instrument cluster trim plate. Refer to Cluster Trim Plate in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
7. Instrument cluster. Refer to Instrument Panel Cluster in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
8. Ignition switch assembly bolts.
9. Ignition switch assembly electrical connectors.
Important:
If the ignition key or key code is not available or the ignition cylinder will not rotate, use the
following procedure to drill a hole in the switch and remove the cylinder. It "Pass Lock" equipped,
there is no need to disconnect prior to cylinder removal.
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Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock Remove/Install Procedure > Page 3979
a. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 1.
b. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
c. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
d. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
e. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch body and check the cylinder code, see Figure
2.
f. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
g. Install the new cylinder by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the "ON" position and
pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release button slightly as it
passes by the 9/32' hole previously drilled in the housing.
10. Ignition lock cable from ignition switch assembly.
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11. Ignition switch assembly from vehicle.
12. Insert key into ignition switch cylinder and rotate to the RUN position.
13. Press the cylinder release plunger (located at the 4 o'clock position) on the ignition switch
assembly.
14. Pull cylinder from ignition switch with key.
Install or Connect
1. Cylinder to ignition switch, verify engagement and operation with key.
2. Ignition switch assembly to vehicle.
3. Ignition lock cable to ignition switch assembly, verify engagement.
4. Ignition switch assembly electrical connectors, verify engagement.
5. Ignition switch assembly bolts.
6. Instrument cluster.
7. Instrument cluster trim plate.
8. Upper steering column cover.
9. Accessory trim plate.
10. Ignition switch trim ring.
11. Enable SIR system. Refer to Enabling SIR in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
12. Negative battery cable.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
Cylinder, Ignition Use published
E7200 Lock - R & R or labor operation
Replace time
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Front Of Engine
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Knock Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Page 3986
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Page 3987
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Page 3988
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Page 3989
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Page 3990
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Page 3991
Knock Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Knock Sensor
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Knock Sensor: Description and Operation
Description
Varying octane levels in today's gasoline may cause detonation in some engines. Detonation is
caused by an uncontrolled explosion (burn) in the combustion chamber. This uncontrolled
explosion could produce a flame front opposite that of the normal flame front produced by the spark
plug. The rattling sound normally associated with detonation is the result of two or more opposing
pressures (flame fronts) colliding within the combustion chamber. Though light detonation is
sometimes considered normal, heavy detonation could result in engine damage.
To control spark knock, a Knock Sensor (KS) system is used. This system is designed to retard
spark timing to reduce spark knock in the engine. This allows the engine to use maximum spark
advance to improve driveability and fuel economy.
^ KS module.
^ Knock sensor.
Operation
The knock sensor detects abnormal vibration (spark knocking) in the engine. The sensor is
mounted in the engine block near the cylinders. The sensors produce an AC output voltage which
increases with the severity of the knock. This signal voltage is input to the PCM. The PCM then
adjusts the Ignition Control (IC) timing to reduce spark knock.
The knock sensor is used to detect engine detonation, allowing the PCM to retard Ignition Control
(IC) spark timing based on the KS signal being received. The knock sensor produces an AC signal
which rides on a 5 volts DC signal supplied by the PCM. The signal amplitude and frequency is
dependent upon the amount of knock being experienced.
The PCM determines whether knock is occurring by comparing the signal level on the KS circuit
with the voltage level on the noise channel. The noise channel allows the PCM to reject any false
knock signal by indicating the amount of normal engine mechanical noise present. Normal engine
noise varies depending on engine speed and load. If the voltage level on the KS noise channel
circuit is below the range considered normal, DTC P0327 will set, indicating a fault in the KS circuit
or one of the knock sensors. If the PCM determines that an abnormal minimum or maximum noise
level is being experienced, a DTC P0326 will set.
The PCM contains a replaceable Knock Sensor (KS) module. The KS module contains the circuitry
that allows the PCM to utilize the KS signal and diagnose the KS sensors and circuitry. If the KS
module is missing or faulty causing a continuous knock condition to be indicated, the PCM will set
DTC P0325.
The scan tool has four data displays available for diagnosing the KS system. The 4 displays are
described as follows:
^ KS Activity is used to monitor the input signal from the knock sensor. This counter will display
Yes while knock is being detected.
^ Knock Retard is the indication of how much the PCM is retarding the spark. The PCM will retard
spark in response to the Knock signal or the Traction Control system Desired Torque signal.
^ KS Noise Channel indicates the current voltage level being monitored on the noise channel.
DTCs P0325, P0326, and P0327 are designed to diagnose the KS module, the knock sensors, and
related wiring, so problems encountered with the KS system should set a DTC. However, if no DTC
was set but the KS system is suspect because detonation was the customer's complaint, refer to
Detonation/Spark Knock in Symptoms. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and
Inspection
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Knock Sensor: Testing and Inspection
The PCM contains a replaceable Knock Sensor (KS) module. The KS module contains the circuitry
that allows the PCM to utilize the KS signal and diagnose the KS sensors and circuitry. If the KS
module is missing or faulty causing a continuous knock condition to be indicated, the PCM will set
DTC P0325.
The scan tool has four data displays available for diagnosing the KS system. The 4 displays are
described as follows:
^ KS Activity is used to monitor the input signal from the knock sensor. This counter will display
Yes while knock is being detected.
^ Knock Retard is the indication of how much the PCM is retarding the spark. The PCM will retard
spark in response to the Knock signal or the Traction Control system Desired Torque signal.
^ KS Noise Channel indicates the current voltage level being monitored on the noise channel.
DTCs P0325, P0326, and P0327 are designed to diagnose the KS module, the knock sensors, and
related wiring, so problems encountered with the KS system should set a DTC. However, if no DTC
was set but the KS system is suspect because detonation was the customer's complaint, refer to
Detonation/Spark Knock in Symptoms. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and
Inspection
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Knock Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise the vehicle. 3. Remove the knock sensor wiring
harness connector from knock sensor. 4. Remove the knock sensor from engine block.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
NOTE: Do Not apply thread sealant to sensor threads. The sensor is coated at factory and applying
additional sealant will affect the sensors ability to detect detonation.
1. Install the knock sensor into engine block. 2. Install the knock sensor wiring harness connector
to the knock sensor. 3. Lower the vehicle. 4. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
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Fuel Pressure Test Port > Component Information > Locations
Fuel Pressure Test Port: Locations
The Fuel Pressure Test Port is located on the fuel rail.
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System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Idle Speed: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM Unstable Engine Idle
Idle Speed: Customer Interest PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-17
Date: July, 1997
Subject: Unstable Engine Idle (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with 3100 V6 Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
Condition
Some owners may experience an unstable engine idle. The controlled engine idle may vary
approximately 50 RPM from desired idle. This typically occurs during an extended idle period
beyond 30 seconds with the transmission in park or neutral and the air conditioning turned off.
Cause
The Pre Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S1) voltage output is driven low and holds there
(lean). The Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2s2) voltage output will hold then at a high
voltage (rich). This can drive one sensor to cancel out the other thus not allowing fuel trim or the
Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor can take over fuel trim control. If the Post Converter
Heated Oxygen takes over fuel trim control, the system thinks it is running rich and the Long Term
Fuel Trim will make adjustments to lean the system. Either of these conditions will cause a rolling
or hunting idle.
Correction
Check the calibration identification number utilizing a scan tool device. Re-flash with the updated
calibration if the current calibration is not one listed in this bulletin. If the vehicle already has the
most recent calibration, then refer to the appropriate service repair manual to diagnose and repair.
Test drive the vehicle after repair to ensure that the condition has been corrected. The new
calibrations are available from the GM Service Technology Group starting with CD number 12 for
1997.
Important:
There are three methods for programming a PCM
1. Direct Programming. The vehicle is directly connected via the Data Link Connector (DLC) on the
Dealers/Retailers Techline equipment. (T-20 Plus, T-50 and T-60 only) Vehicle must be present.
2. Remote programming. The new program is downloaded into the Dealers/Retailers scan tool and
then downloaded into the vehicle from the scan tool via the DLC. Tech 2 required. Vehicle must be
present.
3. Off-Car Programming. A PCM may be programmed while removed from the vehicle by using the
off-board programming adapter (OBPA), P/N 41207-B. This adapter can be connected to either the
Techline Terminal for direct programming or the scan tool for remote programming. Not necessary
for the vehicle to be present.
Refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Techline Information for more detailed instructions.
Parts Information
Part Number Carline Emission
16266904 Malibu, Cutlass USA Nationwide
16266914 Malibu, Cutlass Canadian/Unleaded
Export
16266924 Malibu Leaded Export
Important:
Do not attempt to order the calibrations from GMSPO. The calibrations are programmed into the
vehicle's PCM via a Techline Tool device.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Idle Speed: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM Unstable Engine Idle > Page 4035
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > By Symptom for Idle Speed: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable
Engine Idle
Idle Speed: By Symptom PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-17
Date: July, 1997
Subject: Unstable Engine Idle (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with 3100 V6 Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
Condition
Some owners may experience an unstable engine idle. The controlled engine idle may vary
approximately 50 RPM from desired idle. This typically occurs during an extended idle period
beyond 30 seconds with the transmission in park or neutral and the air conditioning turned off.
Cause
The Pre Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S1) voltage output is driven low and holds there
(lean). The Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2s2) voltage output will hold then at a high
voltage (rich). This can drive one sensor to cancel out the other thus not allowing fuel trim or the
Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor can take over fuel trim control. If the Post Converter
Heated Oxygen takes over fuel trim control, the system thinks it is running rich and the Long Term
Fuel Trim will make adjustments to lean the system. Either of these conditions will cause a rolling
or hunting idle.
Correction
Check the calibration identification number utilizing a scan tool device. Re-flash with the updated
calibration if the current calibration is not one listed in this bulletin. If the vehicle already has the
most recent calibration, then refer to the appropriate service repair manual to diagnose and repair.
Test drive the vehicle after repair to ensure that the condition has been corrected. The new
calibrations are available from the GM Service Technology Group starting with CD number 12 for
1997.
Important:
There are three methods for programming a PCM
1. Direct Programming. The vehicle is directly connected via the Data Link Connector (DLC) on the
Dealers/Retailers Techline equipment. (T-20 Plus, T-50 and T-60 only) Vehicle must be present.
2. Remote programming. The new program is downloaded into the Dealers/Retailers scan tool and
then downloaded into the vehicle from the scan tool via the DLC. Tech 2 required. Vehicle must be
present.
3. Off-Car Programming. A PCM may be programmed while removed from the vehicle by using the
off-board programming adapter (OBPA), P/N 41207-B. This adapter can be connected to either the
Techline Terminal for direct programming or the scan tool for remote programming. Not necessary
for the vehicle to be present.
Refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Techline Information for more detailed instructions.
Parts Information
Part Number Carline Emission
16266904 Malibu, Cutlass USA Nationwide
16266914 Malibu, Cutlass Canadian/Unleaded
Export
16266924 Malibu Leaded Export
Important:
Do not attempt to order the calibrations from GMSPO. The calibrations are programmed into the
vehicle's PCM via a Techline Tool device.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > By Symptom for Idle Speed: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable
Engine Idle > Page 4041
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Idle Speed: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 >
PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
Idle Speed: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-17
Date: July, 1997
Subject: Unstable Engine Idle (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with 3100 V6 Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
Condition
Some owners may experience an unstable engine idle. The controlled engine idle may vary
approximately 50 RPM from desired idle. This typically occurs during an extended idle period
beyond 30 seconds with the transmission in park or neutral and the air conditioning turned off.
Cause
The Pre Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S1) voltage output is driven low and holds there
(lean). The Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2s2) voltage output will hold then at a high
voltage (rich). This can drive one sensor to cancel out the other thus not allowing fuel trim or the
Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor can take over fuel trim control. If the Post Converter
Heated Oxygen takes over fuel trim control, the system thinks it is running rich and the Long Term
Fuel Trim will make adjustments to lean the system. Either of these conditions will cause a rolling
or hunting idle.
Correction
Check the calibration identification number utilizing a scan tool device. Re-flash with the updated
calibration if the current calibration is not one listed in this bulletin. If the vehicle already has the
most recent calibration, then refer to the appropriate service repair manual to diagnose and repair.
Test drive the vehicle after repair to ensure that the condition has been corrected. The new
calibrations are available from the GM Service Technology Group starting with CD number 12 for
1997.
Important:
There are three methods for programming a PCM
1. Direct Programming. The vehicle is directly connected via the Data Link Connector (DLC) on the
Dealers/Retailers Techline equipment. (T-20 Plus, T-50 and T-60 only) Vehicle must be present.
2. Remote programming. The new program is downloaded into the Dealers/Retailers scan tool and
then downloaded into the vehicle from the scan tool via the DLC. Tech 2 required. Vehicle must be
present.
3. Off-Car Programming. A PCM may be programmed while removed from the vehicle by using the
off-board programming adapter (OBPA), P/N 41207-B. This adapter can be connected to either the
Techline Terminal for direct programming or the scan tool for remote programming. Not necessary
for the vehicle to be present.
Refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Techline Information for more detailed instructions.
Parts Information
Part Number Carline Emission
16266904 Malibu, Cutlass USA Nationwide
16266914 Malibu, Cutlass Canadian/Unleaded
Export
16266924 Malibu Leaded Export
Important:
Do not attempt to order the calibrations from GMSPO. The calibrations are programmed into the
vehicle's PCM via a Techline Tool device.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Idle Speed: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 >
PROM - Unstable Engine Idle > Page 4047
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4048
Idle Speed: Specifications
Information not supplied by the manufacturer.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner
Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air Filter
Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: Customer Interest Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner
Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air Filter
Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page 4058
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner
Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air
Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner
Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air
Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page 4064
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner
Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4065
Air Filter Element: Service and Repair
Air Intake Resonator
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the attaching bolt. 2. Remove retainer from resonator. 3. Remove the air intake
resonator.
Installation Procedure
1. Install resonator to vehicle. 2. Connect retainer to the air intake resonator. 3. Install attaching bolt
to the resonator.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Filter > Fuel
Pressure Release > System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
Tool Required: J 3473-1A, Fuel Pressure Gauge
1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal to avoid possible fuel discharge if an accidental attempt
is made to start the engine. 2. Loosen the fuel filler cap to relieve tank vapor pressure. 3. Connect
Fuel Pressure Gauge J 34730-1A to the fuel pressure connection. Wrap a shop towel around the
fuel pressure connection while
connecting the fuel pressure gauge in order to avoid spillage.
4. Install the bleed hose into an approved container and open the valve to bleed the system
pressure. The fuel connections are now safe for servicing. 5. Drain any fuel remaining in the fuel
pressure gauge into an approved container.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Firing Order >
Component Information > Specifications > Ignition Firing Order
Firing Order: Specifications Ignition Firing Order
Firing Order .........................................................................................................................................
............................................................... 1-2-3-4-5-6
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing >
Number One Cylinder > Component Information > Locations > Number 1 Cylinder Location
Number One Cylinder: Locations Number 1 Cylinder Location
NUMBER ONE CYLINDER LOCATION
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing >
Timing Marks and Indicators > System Information > Locations
Timing Marks and Indicators: Locations
The ignition timing is completely controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No timing
reference marks are provided.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Specifications
Ignition Cable: Specifications
Spark Plug Wire Resistance
..............................................................................................................................................................
Less than 30,000 Ohms.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 4085
Ignition Cable: Locations
Spark Plug Wiring
Spark Plug Wiring
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 4086
Ignition Cable: Service Precautions
Silicone spark plug boots form a tight seal to the spark plugs. The boot should be twisted 1/2 turn
while removing. DO NOT pull on the wire to remove it from a spark plug. Pull on the boot, or use a
tool designed for this purpose. Care should also be exercised when connecting a timing light or
other pick-up equipment. DO NOT force anything between the boot and wiring, or through the
silicone jacket. Connections should be made in parallel using an adapter.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 4087
Ignition Cable: Description and Operation
Description
The spark plug wiring used is a carbon impregnated cord conductor encased in a 7 mm (9/32 inch)
diameter silicone rubber jacket. The silicone wiring will withstand very high temperatures and also
provides an excellent insulator for the higher voltage of the ignition system. The silicone spark plug
boots form a tight seal on the plug and THE BOOT SHOULD BE TWISTED ONE-HALF TURN
WHILE REMOVING. Care should also be exercised when connecting a timing light or other pick-up
equipment. Do not force anything between the boot and wiring, or through the silicone jacket.
Connections should be made in parallel using an adapter. DO NOT pull on the wire to remove. Pull
on the boot, or use a tool designed for this purpose.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Cable >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 4088
Ignition Cable: Service and Repair
Spark Plug Wiring
When replacing spark plug cables (secondary wiring), route the cables correctly and through the
proper retainers. Use care when unlocking retainers. Failure to route the cables properly can lead
to radio ignition noise and cross-firing of the plugs, or shorting of the leads to ground. The silicone
spark plug boots form a tight seal on the plug and THE BOOT SHOULD BE TWISTED ONE-HALF
TURN WHILE REMOVING. Refer to illustrations for spark plug cable routing.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug >
Component Information > Specifications > Spark Plug Gap
Spark Plug: Specifications
Spark Plug Gap 0.060 in
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug >
Component Information > Specifications > Spark Plug Gap > Page 4093
Spark Plug: Specifications
Spark Plug Torque 20 lb. ft.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug >
Component Information > Service Precautions > Technician Safety Information
Spark Plug: Technician Safety Information
WARNING: If you smoke while handling coated spark plugs, wear gloves to prevent transfer of
coating to cigarette and subsequent burning of coating. Always wash hands after handling coated
plugs.
CAUTION:
Observe service precautions:
- Allow engine to cool BEFORE removing spark plugs. Attempting to remove spark plugs from a hot
engine may cause plug to seize, causing damage to cylinder head threads.
- Clean spark plug recess area BEFORE removing plug. Failure to do so can result in engine
damage due to dirt or foreign material entering cylinder head, or in contamination of cylinder head
threads. Contaminated threads may prevent proper seating of new plug.
- Use only spark plugs specified for use in the vehicle. DO NOT install spark plugs that are either
"hotter" or "colder" than those specified for the vehicle. Installing plugs of another type can severely
damage the engine.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug >
Component Information > Service Precautions > Technician Safety Information > Page 4096
Spark Plug: Vehicle Damage Warnings
WARNING: If you smoke while handling coated spark plugs, wear gloves to prevent transfer of
coating to cigarette and subsequent burning of coating. Always wash hands after handling coated
plugs.
CAUTION:
Observe service precautions:
^ Allow engine to cool BEFORE removing spark plugs. Attempting to remove spark plugs from a
hot engine may cause plug to seize, causing damage to cylinder head threads.
^ Clean spark plug recess area BEFORE removing plug. Failure to do so can result in engine
damage due to dirt or foreign material entering cylinder head, or in contamination of cylinder head
threads. Contaminated threads may prevent proper seating of new plug.
^ Use only spark plugs specified for use in the vehicle. DO NOT install spark plugs that are either
"hotter" or "colder" than those specified for the vehicle. Installing plugs of another type can severely
damage the engine.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug >
Component Information > Service Precautions > Page 4097
Spark Plug: Application and ID
Note: Use recommended part or one of equivalent quality.
AC Type: 41-940
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug >
Component Information > Service Precautions > Page 4098
Spark Plug: Description and Operation
CAUTION: This engine has aluminum cylinder heads. Allow the engine to cool before removing
spark plugs, or the spark plug threads in the cylinder head may be damaged.
DESCRIPTION
This engine uses tapered seat resistor type spark plugs without gaskets. Always replace plugs with
the same spark plug as listed.
OPERATION
Normal service is assumed to be a mixture of idling, slow speed, and high speed driving.
Occasional or intermittent highway driving is needed for good spark plug performance because it
gives increased combustion heat that bums away any excess deposits of carbon or oxides that
have built up from frequent idling or continual stop-and-go driving. Spark plugs are protected by an
insulating boot made of special heat-resistant material which covers the spark plug terminal and
extends downward over a portion of the plug insulator. These boots prevent flash-over which
causes engine mis-firing. Do not mistake corona discharge for flash-over or a shorted insulator.
Corona is a steady blue light appearing around the insulator, just above the shell crimp. It is the
visible evidence of a high-tension field, and has no effect on ignition performance. Usually it can be
detected only in darkness. This discharge may repel dust particles, leaving a clear ring on the
insulator just above the shell. This ring is sometimes mistakenly regarded as evidence that
combustion gases have blown out between shell and insulator.
Spark plugs must operate within certain temperature limits if they are to provide the performance
and service life expected. The spark plug selected for an engine is based on the normal service
which the engine was designed.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug >
Component Information > Service Precautions > Page 4099
Spark Plug: Testing and Inspection
Worn or dirty plugs may give satisfactory operation at idling speed, but under operating conditions
they frequently fail. Faulty plugs are indicated in a number of ways: poor fuel economy, power loss,
loss of speed, hard starting and general poor engine performance.
Spark plugs may also fail due to carbon fouling, excessive gap, or a broken insulator.
Fouled plugs Fouled plugs are identified by black carbon deposits. The black deposits are usually
the result of slow-speed driving and short runs where sufficient engine operating temperature is
seldom reached. Worn pistons, rings, faulty ignition, over-rich air/fuel mixture and spark plugs
which are too cold will also result in carbon deposits.
Excessive gap Excessive gap wear, on plugs of low mileage, usually indicates the engine is
operating at high speeds or loads that are consistently greater than normal or that a plug which is
too hot is being used. Electrode wear may also be the result of plug overheating, caused by
combustion gases leaking past the threads, due to insufficient spark plug torque or too much spark
plug torque. An excessively lean air/fuel mixture will also result in excessive electrode wear.
Broken insulator Broken insulators are usually the result of improper installation or carelessness
when regapping the plug. Broken upper insulators usually result from a poor fitting wrench or an
outside impact. The cracked insulator may not show up right away, but will as soon as oil or
moisture penetrates the crack. The crack is usually just below the crimped part of the shell and
may not be visible.
Broken lower insulators usually result from carelessness when regapping and generally are visible.
This type of break may result from the plug operating too "hot," which may happen in periods of
high-speed operation or under heavy loads. When regapping a spark plug, always make the gap
adjustment by bending the ground (side) electrode. Spark plugs with broken insulators should
always be replaced.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug >
Component Information > Service Precautions > Page 4100
Spark Plug: Service and Repair
Spark Plug Wiring
Notice: To avoid engine damage, do not remove spark plugs when engine is warm. Use care when
removing spark plug wire boots from spark plugs. Twist the boot one-half turn while removing, and
pull on THE BOOT ONLY to remove the wire.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Ignition key OFF.
2. Remove foreign material from around the spark plug holes.
3. Remove the spark plugs using a spark plug socket.
Install or Connect
1. Adjust spark plug gap using a round wire type spark plug gap gage. WHILE GAPPING PLUG BE
SURE TO KEEP THE PLATINUM PADS
ALIGNED TO ENSURE MAXIMUM PLUG LIFE. Refer to Specifications for gap specifications.
2. Install new plugs and tighten properly.
Tighten ^
Sparkplugs to 20 Nm (15 lb ft).
^ Reapply dielectric lubricant to insulator boot.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Compression
Check > System Information > Specifications
Compression Check: Specifications
The lowest reading cylinder should not be less than 70% of the highest and no cylinder reading
should be less than 689 kPa (100 psi). Perform compression test with engine at normal operating
temperature, spark plugs removed and throttle wide open.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Compression
Check > System Information > Specifications > Page 4104
Compression Check: Testing and Inspection
TOOL REQUIRED
^ J 38722 Compression Tester
A compression pressure test of the engine cylinders determines the condition of the rings, the
valves and the head gasket.
CAUTION: This engine has aluminum cylinder heads. Allow the engine to cool before removing the
spark plugs, or the engine may be damaged.
1. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. The battery must be at or near full
charge. 2. Turn the engine OFF. 3. Disable the ignition system. See Powertrain Management. 4.
Disable the fuel system. See Powertrain Management.
CAUTION: Remove the ignition fuse and both of the injector fuses from the fuse box and/or
underhood electrical center.
5. Remove the spark plugs from all cylinders. See Powertrain Management. 6. Remove the air duct
from the throttle body. See Powertrain Management. 7. Block the throttle plate in open position. 8.
Measure the engine compression using the following procedure:
a. Install the Compression Tester firmly to the spark plug hole. b. Crank the engine through at least
ten compression strokes (or until the highest reading is achieved) in the cylinder being tested and
check the
readings on the Compression Tester at each stroke. Record the results.
c. Disconnect the Compression Tester. d. Repeat the compression test for each cylinder.
9. Record the compression readings from all of the cylinders.
^ The lowest reading should not be less than 70% of the highest reading.
^ No cylinder reading should be less than 689 kPa (100 psi).
10. When the compression measurement is normal, the compression builds up quickly and evenly
to the specified compression on each cylinder. 11. The following are problem areas:
^ If there is a problem with the piston ring, compression is low on the first stroke and tends to build
up on the following strokes, but does not reach normal. Compression improves considerably with
the addition of oil. Use approximately three squirts of oil from a plunger-type oiler.
^ If there is a problem with the valve, compression is low on the first stroke and it does not tend to
build up in following strokes. Compression does not improve much with the addition of oil. Use
approximately three squirts from a plunger type oiler.
^ Leaking head gaskets give nearly the same results as valve problems, but may be identified by
engine coolant in the crankcase. Head gasket leakage between two cylinders will give low readings
on both cylinders.
12. Remove the block from the throttle plate. 13. Install the air duct to the throttle body. See
Powertrain Management. 14. Install the spark plugs. See Powertrain Management. 15. Install the
ignition fuse and both fuel injector fuses to the fuse box and/or underhood electrical center.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve Clearance >
System Information > Specifications
Valve Clearance: Specifications
This engine uses hydraulic lifters and no valve lash adjustment is necessary.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > A/C Signal > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Air Conditioning (A/C) Signal
A/C Signal: Description and Operation Air Conditioning (A/C) Signal
PCM Controlled Air Conditioning
The air conditioning system uses a compressor with variable displacement. This compressor is
referred to as the V-5 type compressor. The V-5 compressor meets A/C requirements without
cycling.
The A/C compressor operation is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) for the
following reasons:
^ Improves idle quality during compressor clutch engagement.
^ Improves wide open throttle performance (WOT).
^ Provides A/C compressor protection from operation with incorrect refrigerant pressures.
For a description of the system and an explanation of the components used, refer to Heating and
Air Conditioning.
The A/C electrical system consists of the following components:
^ A/C control head.
^ A/C refrigerant pressure switch.
^ A/C compressor clutch.
^ A/C compressor clutch relay.
^ PCM.
When A/C is selected through the A/C control head a 12 volt signal is supplied to the A/C request
input of the PCM. The A/C compressor clutch relay is controlled through the PCM. This allows the
PCM to increase the engine idle speed just prior to A/C clutch engagement for better idle quality. In
addition the PCM will command the cooling fans on during A/C operation. The PCM monitors the
A/C refrigerant pressure. If the A/C refrigerant pressure, and engine operating conditions are within
a specific calibrated acceptable ranges the PCM will enable the A/C compressor relay. This is
accomplished by providing a ground path for the A/C relay coil within the PCM.
When the A/C compressor relay is enabled battery voltage is supplied to the compressor clutch
coil.
The PCM will enable the A/C compressor clutch whenever the engine is running and the A/C has
been requested, unless any of the following conditions are met:
^ Throttle greater than 90%.
^ A/C head pressure greater than 427 psi (4.27 volts) or less than 41 psi (0.35 volt) (as determined
by the A/C refrigerant pressure sensor).
^ Ignition voltage below 9.5 volts.
^ Engine speed greater than 6900 RPM for 5 seconds.
^ ECT greater than 121°C (250°F).
^ IAT less than 0°C (32°F).
A/C Clutch Circuit Diagnosis should be used for diagnosing the electrical portion of the A/C
compressor clutch circuit. When diagnosing the refrigerant portion of the HVAC system, refer to
Heating and Air Conditioning.
A scan tool will be used in diagnosing the system. The scan tool has the ability to read the A/C
request and refrigerant pressure inputs to the PCM. The scan tool can display when the PCM has
commanded the A/C clutch on. The scan tool should have the ability to override the A/C request
signal and energize the A/C control relay. Refer to A/C Compressor Clutch Circuit Diagnosis /
System Diagnostic Tables. See: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > A/C Signal > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Page 4113
A/C Signal: Testing and Inspection
DIAGNOSIS
A scan tool will be used in diagnosing the system. The scan tool has the ability to display the A/C
request and refrigerant pressure inputs to the PCM. The scan tool can display when the PCM has
commanded the A/C clutch ON. The scan tool also has the ability to override the A/C request
signal and energize the A/C control relay. To diagnose the refrigerant portion of the HVAC system,
refer to Heating and Air Conditioning.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Accessory Signal >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Cooling Fan Control Signal
Accessory Signal: Description and Operation Cooling Fan Control Signal
DESCRIPTION
The electric cooling fans are used to lower the temperature of the engine coolant flowing through
the radiator. They are also used to cool the refrigerant (R134a) flowing through the A/C condenser.
OPERATION
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) controls the operation of the cooling fans. This is
accomplished by providing a ground path for the cooling fan relay coils within the PCM. The relay
contacts will close and complete the circuit between the fusible link at the battery junction block and
the fan motors. Whenever there is a fan ON request both fans will be running.
Power is supplied to the cooling fan motors through a fusible link and three 60 AMP maxifuses. The
60 AMP maxifuses are located in the underhood electrical center. The PCM Output Driver Module
B output 1 is used to control Fan 1 operation. The PCM Output Driver Module B output 2 is used to
control Fan 2 operation. The Driver Module outputs are monitored by the PCM. If Diagnostic
Trouble Codes P1651 or P1652 are present follow the appropriate diagnostic tables prior to
performing Electric Cooling Fans Diagnosis / System Diagnostic Tables. See: Testing and
Inspection
The PCM will complete the ground path for the low speed cooling fans (Fan 1) relay 1 under the
following conditions:
^ When engine temperature exceeds 105°C (221°F).
^ When A/C is requested (ambient temperature must be above 9°C (48°F).
^ When A/C refrigerant pressure is greater than 190 psi (2 volts).
^ When the ignition is off and engine coolant temperature is greater than 140°C (284°F).
The PCM will complete the ground paths for the high speed cooling fans (Fan 2) relays 1, 2 and 3
under the following conditions:
^ When engine temperature exceeds 113°C (235°F).
^ When A/C refrigerant pressure is greater than 275 psi (2.9 volts).
When certain Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) are present, the PCM may command the cooling
fans to run all the time. It is important to perform the Powertrain On-Board Diagnostic System
check prior to diagnosing the engine cooling fans. See: Testing and Inspection
If a problem that involves the low speed cooling fan relay control circuit (cooling fan relay #1
control) exists, DTC P1651 should set. If the problem affects the high speed cooling fan relay
control circuit (cooling fan relay #2 and #3 control), DTC P1652 should set. A problem with the ECT
sensor should set DTC P0117, P0118, P1114, or P1115. Any of these DTCs will affect cooling fan
operation and should be diagnosed before using the Electric Cooling Fan Diagnosis table. The
Electric Cooling Fan Diagnosis table should be used to diagnose the PCM controlled cooling fans
only if no DTC is set. See: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Accessory Signal >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Cooling Fan Control Signal > Page 4118
Accessory Signal: Description and Operation Cruise Control Status Signal
DESCRIPTION
The cruise control system is a speed control system that maintains a desired vehicle speed under
normal driving conditions. The cruise control system has the ability to cruise, coast, resume speed,
accelerate, and tap-up and tap-down vehicle speed.
OPERATION
The main parts of the cruise control system are the cruise control switches, the cruise control
module assembly, the vehicle speed sensor, the cruise control release and stop lamp switch
assemblies and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
The operation of the cruise control module is controlled by the cruise control switches located on
the cruise control actuator lever assembly. All cruise control functions are completed through this
assembly.
The cruise control release and stop lamp switch assemblies are provided to disengage the cruise
control system. When the brake pedal is depressed, the cruise control system is electrically
disabled. The cruise control module will remember what the vehicles cruise speed was set to prior
to disengaging. After reaching the enabling criteria for cruise operation, depressing the resume
switch will allow the vehicle to return to the previously set vehicle speed. The switch assemblies
are mounted on the brake pedal bracket assembly.
COMPONENTS
The cruise control module assembly is mounted on the engine compartment fire wall. The cruise
control system uses the cruise control module assembly to obtain the desired vehicle speed. Two
important components in the module assembly help to do this, an electronic control module and an
electric stepper motor. The control module uses a vehicle speed input from the PCM to determine
how to adjust the electric stepper motor. The motor moves a band and the throttle linkage in
response to the control module to maintain the desired cruise speed.
The cruise control module, and the PCM, have a low speed limit which will prevent the cruise
control system from engaging below a speed of 25 mph (40 km/h). The PCM also does not allow
the cruise system to operate under certain conditions. When the cruise control system is enabled,
the cruise control module sends a signal to tell the PCM that it is controlling the vehicle speed. The
cruise control module is not serviceable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Accessory Signal >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Cooling Fan Control Signal > Page 4119
Accessory Signal: Description and Operation PCM Controlled Warning Lamps
Description
The PCM controlled lamps are intended to alert the driver to an operating condition which may
require immediate attention.
PCM Controlled Lamps
The instrument panel indicators ignition 1 feed powers the PCM controlled lamps. The PCM
controlled lamps operate as follows:
^ Hot Lamp: The PCM commands the Hot lamp ON when the engine coolant temperature exceeds
124°C (255°F). The PCM commands the Hot lamp OFF when the engine coolant temperature falls
below 120°C (248°F).
^ Generator Lamp: The PCM commands the generator lamp ON under the following conditions:
- When the engine speed is greater than 1200 RPM and system voltage falls below 10 volts for
longer than 10 seconds. The PCM commands the generator ON when system voltage rises to
above 12 volts.
- When the generator control circuit (L terminal) remains low for longer than 10 seconds.
- When the engine speed is below 2060 RPM and the generator PWM control circuit (F terminal)
duty cycle remains low for longer than 20 seconds.
- When the engine speed is above 4000 RPM and the generator PWM control circuit (F terminal)
duty cycle remains high for longer than 20 seconds.
^ Low Oil Level Lamp: The PCM commands the Low Oil Level Lamp ON if the Engine Oil Level
sensor indicates that a low oil level condition exists. The PCM determines whether or not to test for
low oil level based on the difference between engine coolant temperature at the last shutdown and
engine coolant temperature at startup. This is to ensure that the oil has drained back into the oil
pan before testing.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Locations
Top Left Side Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4125
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4126
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4127
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4128
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4129
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4130
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4131
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4132
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor measures the amount of air which passes through the throttle
body. The PCM uses this information to determine the operating condition of the engine, to control
fuel delivery. A large quantity of air indicates acceleration, while a small quantity indicates
deceleration or idle.
The scan tool reads the MAF value and displays it in grams per second (gm/s). At idle, it should
read between 4 gm/s-7 gm/s on a fully warmed up engine. Values should change rather quickly on
acceleration, but values should remain fairly stable at any given RPM. A failure in the MAF sensor
or circuit should set DTC P0101, DTC P0102, or DTC P0103.
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove the MAF sensor electrical connector. 2. Remove the air inlet duct from the MAF sensor.
3. Remove the MAF sensor from the air filter housing.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Carefully install the MAF sensor to the air inlet grommet. 2. Install the MAF sensor to the air inlet
duct. 3. Reconnect the electrical connector.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature
Sensor > Component Information > Specifications > Electrical Specifications
Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Electrical Specifications
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
100°C (212°F) .....................................................................................................................................
......................................................... 177 Ohms 90°C (194°F) ............................................................
................................................................................................................................... 241 Ohms 80°C
(176°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 332 Ohms 70°C (158°F) ......................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 467 Ohms 60°C
(140°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 667 Ohms 50°C (122°F) ......................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 973 Ohms 40°C
(104°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 1,459 Ohms 30°C (86°F) ........................................................................
...................................................................................................................... 2,238 Ohms 20°C
(68°F) ..................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 3,520 Ohms 10°C (50°F) ........................................................................
...................................................................................................................... 5,670 Ohms 0°C (32°F)
..............................................................................................................................................................
................................. 9,420 Ohms -10°C (14°F) ..................................................................................
.......................................................................................................... 16,180 Ohms -20°C (-4°F) .......
..............................................................................................................................................................
........................ 28,680 Ohms -30°C (-22°F) .......................................................................................
.................................................................................................... 52,700 Ohms -40°C (-40°F) ...........
..............................................................................................................................................................
................ 100,700 Ohms
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Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Mechanical Specifications Torque Valve
Torque Valve
Induction Air Sensor 44 in.lb
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Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4192
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4193
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4195
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature
Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4196
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4197
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4198
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
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Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Electrical Diagrams
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Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4201
Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Description and Operation
Operation
The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor is a thermistor which changes value based on the
temperature of air entering the engine. Low temperature produces a high resistance (100,000
ohms at -40°C (-40°F), while high temperature causes low resistance (70 ohms at 130°C (266°F).
The PCM supplies a 5 volt signal to the sensor through a resistor in the PCM and measures the
voltage. The voltage will be high when the incoming air is cold, and low when the air is hot. By
measuring the voltage, the PCM calculates the incoming air temperature. The IAT sensor signal is
used to adjust spark timing according to incoming air density.
The scan tool displays temperature of the air entering the engine, which should read close to
ambient air temperature when the engine is cold, and rise as the underhood temperature
increases. If the engine has not been run for several hours (overnight) the IAT sensor temperature
and engine coolant temperature should read close to each other. A failure in the IAT sensor circuit
should set DTC P0112 or DTC P0113.
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Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4202
Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove the electrical connector. 2. Carefully grasp the sensor and with a twisting and pulling
motion, remove the IAT sensor from air intake duct.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the IAT Sensor into the hole. 2. Connect the electrical connector to the IAT Sensor.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine Controls - Service Manual Supplement Announcement
Body Control Module: Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Service Manual Supplement
Announcement
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 99-06-04-010
Date: March, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: 1997 Service Manual Supplement
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
The 1997 GMP/97-LN-2 service information has been revised to incorporate the changes
associated with the Body Function Controller (BFC). Please refer to the 1997 Service Manual
supplement (part number GMP/97-LN-UPD) for the revised service information. This supplement
provides revised diagnostic procedures and service information for the following items:
^ DTC P0630 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit
^ DTC P1601 Serial Communication Malfunction
^ DTC P1602 Class II Failure with EBCM
^ DTC P1610 Class II Failure with BFC
^ DTC P1626 No Password
^ DTC P1530 Theft Deterrent PCM in Learn Mode
^ DTC P1631 Theft Deterrent Password Incorrect
^ DTC P1632 Theft Deterrent System Fuel Disabled
^ A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit
^ A/C Compressor Clutch Control
^ Electric Cooling Fan
^ Electric Cooling Fan (Table 1)
^ Electric Cooling Fan (Table 2)
^ Electric Cooling Fan (Table 3)
^ Engine Oil Pressure Switch
^ PCM Controlled Air Conditioning
^ Electric Cooling Fan General Description
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4207
Below RH Side Of I/P
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Body Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4211
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4212
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4213
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4214
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Body Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4239
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4240
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4241
Body Control Module: Connector Views
Body Function Controller (BFC): C1
Body Function Controller (BFC): C2
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4242
Body Function Controller (BFC): C2 (Part 1 Of 2)
Body Function Controller (BFC): C2 (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4243
Body Function Controller (BFC): C3
Body Function Controller (BFC): C3 (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4244
Body Function Controller (BFC): C3 (Part 2 Of 2)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4245
Body Control Module: Electrical Diagrams
Body Function Controller (Part 1 Of 4)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4246
Body Function Controller (Part 2 Of 4)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4247
Body Function Controller (Part 3 Of 4)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4248
Body Function Controller (Part 4 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module >
Component Information > Service Precautions > Technician Safety Information
Body Control Module: Technician Safety Information
CAUTION:
^ This vehicle is equipped with Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR). Refer to Service
Precautions / Air Bags (Supplemental Restraint Systems) before performing service on or around
SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment,
personal injury, or otherwise unneeded SIR system repairs.
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Body Control Module: Vehicle Damage Warnings
Overloading Circuits
The computer system is designed to withstand normal current draws associated with vehicle
operation, however, care must be taken to avoid overloading any of these circuits. In testing for
opens or shorts, do not ground or apply voltage to any of the circuits unless instructed to do so by
the diagnostic procedures. These circuits may only be tested using the High Impedance Multimeter
(J 39200 or equivalent) if they remain connected to one of the computers. Never remove or apply
voltage to one of the computers with the Ignition Switch in the RUN position. Before removing or
connecting battery cables, fuses or connectors always turn the Ignition Switch to the OFF position.
Fastener Requirements
NOTE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for the application. General Motors will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. General Motors will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and the joint clamping
force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening
sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and
systems.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Component Information > Description and Operation > Body Control System Operation
Body Control Module: Description and Operation Body Control System Operation
Bulb Check General Description
The bulb check function resides in the Body Function Controller (BFC). Every time the Ignition
Switch transitions from ACC to RUN, an Instrument Cluster bulb check will occur for a calibrated
amount of time for specified indicators. Bulb check will override the OFF state of the affected
indicators. The Body Function Controller (BFC) will determine which indicators to bulb check by
looking at an EEPROM table. Every Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) indicator has a bit in the
EEPROM table. The gauges will WOW during a bulb check. A WOW is when all of the gauge
indicators are moved at the same time and all indicators are lit. If there is an indicator lit before the
WOW, the indicator shall remain lit after this function has concluded.
Compressor Controls
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and Body Function Controller (BFC) share hardware and
software for control of the AC Compressor Clutch. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and the
Body Function Controller (BFC) communicate this information over the serial data Class 2 line.
The Body Function Controller (BFC) performs the following software functions:
^ Limit Low Speed Compressor Operation
^ Prevent Clutch Slippage
^ High Coolant Temperature
^ Monitor for Overpressure
^ Determine Low Ambient Pressure
^ Control Compressor Clutch
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) performs the following functions:
^ Prevent Compressor Overspeed
^ Limit Compressor Speed (in PARK or NEUTRAL)
^ Drive Compressor Clutch
^ Perform Anti-Slug (Slugging is when a mass of liquid enters the AC Compressor Pump)
Interior Lighting Control
The Body Function Controller (BFC) provides the following interior lamp control:
^ Courtesy lamps.
^ Illuminated Entry control of Courtesy Lamps.
Courtesy Lamps are enabled by the following methods:
^ By discrete input to the Body Function Controller (BFC) from the door ajar switches.
^ If any of the doors are open and the vehicle speed is less than 13 km/h (8 mp/h).
^ If the Ignition Switch has been turned OFF for less than two minutes and then the doors are
closed, the lights will stay on for 4 seconds (or until the Ignition Switch is turned to the RUN
position).
^ If the Ignition Switch has been turned OFF for more than two minutes and then the doors are
closed, the lights will stay on for 40 seconds (or until the Ignition Switch is turned to the RUN
position).
^ If the Ignition Switch has been turned OFF for less than two minutes and the Ignition Key is
removed or the doors are opened, the lights will turn on for 15 seconds (or until the Ignition Key is
re-inserted or a door open switch is cycled).
^ Remote Control Door Lock Transmitter activation of the Driver Door Unlock or the Trunk Release
(function of Illuminated entry).
When the interior lights are to be turned off because a customer is leaving the vehicle (the Ignition
Switch is turned OFF for more than two minutes), they are first step dimmed, and then theater
dimmed to the OFF state. If the Ignition Switch is turned OFF for less than two minutes the interior
lights are theater dimmed to the OFF state in four seconds. If the customer sits in the vehicle and
the interior lights have turned OFF and the customer removes the Ignition Key the interior lights will
illuminate for 15 seconds.
Volts Indicator
The Volts indicator (red) will be illuminated under the following conditions:
^ Lamp Terminal pulled low: Key On (Bulb check)
- Open Field or Regulator Circuit
- Output voltage above overvoltage set point (no control)
- Low system voltage above Engine RPM calibrated value (Undervoltage)
- Open P terminal at the Voltage Regulator, shorted positive or negative bridge diode at P terminal
Field terminal voltage
- Condition indicate a voltage regulator disconnect (Low Duty Cycle)
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will determine Engine RPM, Generator Field Duty Cycle,
Lamp Terminal State, L term disabled and send these as Class 2 messages to the Body Function
Controller (BFC). The Body Function Controller (BFC) will then dictate to the Instrument Cluster the
state of the Volts indicator and set the appropriate fault codes.
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There are four fault codes possible that will illuminate the volts indicator.
The Lamp Terminal Open/Short fault and the Field Terminal Short fault and their respective codes
can only be set and cleared with Ignition 1 active and zero engine RPM. Since the volts indicator is
illuminated with Ignition 1 active and zero engine RPM the faults that can occur under these
conditions cannot be communicated to the driver. Therefore, if either of these codes are set when
the engine is started the indicator will remain illuminated to indicate the fault. The Lamp Terminal
Open/Short program checks for a high lamp state while the Engine in not running. The Field
Terminal Short program checks for a duty cycle higher than a calibrated value while the engine is
not running. Both of these faults have a calibratable timer before setting.
The Field terminal fault and the Lamp terminal fault and their respective codes can only be set and
cleared with the engine running. The Body Function Controller (BFC) will diagnose a possible
voltage regulator disconnect (Field terminal fault) by monitoring the duty cycle and verifying it does
not fall below the calibrated value for a calibrated time. The Lamp terminal fault is set if the Lamp
terminal goes low for a calibrated time.
The volts algorithm tracks whether or not the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) has disabled the
Generator on a cold start or in a stall condition and will not set any field or lamp faults. The
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will not disable the generator for more than 10 seconds.
In the event of a Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or a Body Function Controller (BFC) Class 2 or
Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial data loss the Volts indicator will remain in its last state prior
to the loss of serial data.
Wake-Up/Asleep States
Wake-ups are signals that will turn the Body Function Controller (BFC) ON and cause it to begin
active control and/or monitoring. The Body Function Controller (BFC) is asleep when it has stopped
control or monitoring and has become idle again. The Body Function Controller (BFC) Wake-ups
are as follows:
^ Door Ajar Switches
^ Ignition Switch actuation
^ Inadvertent Power
^ Battery Guard
^ Remote Control Door Lock Receiver Driver Door Unlock actuation Trunk Release
The Body Function Controller will go to sleep and go into Battery Rundown Protection mode are as
follows:
^ Less than 24 km (15 miles), 3 minutes
^ Greater than 24 km (15 miles), 20 minutes
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Body Control Module: Description and Operation General Description
The Body Function Controller (BFC) performs the following functions:
^ A/C Compressor request
^ A/C Cooling Fan
^ Exterior and interior lighting control Daytime Running Lights (DRL)
- Automatic Lighting Control
- Fog Lamps
- Interior Lighting
^ Battery Rundown Protection
^ Chime
^ Gauge Control
^ Instrument Cluster Indicator Control
^ Theft Deterrent
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
Body Control Module: Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
Basic Knowledge Required
Before performing diagnosis there are some areas that you must be familiar with. Without this basic
knowledge, you will have difficulty using diagnostic procedures.
1. Basic Electrical Circuits - The basic theory of electricity is essential. An understanding of voltage,
current, resistance and their relationships to
each other will help in the diagnosis of an open or shorted circuit. You must be able to read and
understand a schematic wiring diagram.
2. Use of Circuit Testing Tools - You must know how to use jumper wires to bypass components to
test circuits. You must be familiar with the High
Impedance Multimeter (DMM - Digital Multi Meter), particularly essential tool J 39200 or equivalent.
You must be able to measure voltage, resistance, and current with the DMM you are using.
3. Use of the scan tool - You must know how to use, connect, manipulate and diagnose circuits
using this essential tool. You must be familiar with
screens and control module partitions.
Body Function Controller System Check
Diagnostic Trouble Codes Warning
IMPORTANT
Do NOT replace the Body Function Controller (BFC) unless a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)
remains Current after all DTC tables have been executed. NEVER replace the Body Function
Controller (BFC) based on History codes.
The Body Function Controller (BFC) and the Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) are
connected to the Class 2 serial data link and are capable of setting Diagnostic Trouble Codes. The
history DTC codes (a history DTC is a current DTC fault that disappears in the next ignition cycle)
can be especially useful in diagnosing an intermittent problem. An explanation of these are given
below in Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) TABLE #13.
On Vehicle Diagnostic Capabilities
Aboard this vehicle are electronic components which can be controlled by the service technician to
provide valuable self-diagnostic information. These components are part of an electrical network
designed to control various engine and body subsystems.
System sensors and switches are monitored by the computer system. These components are
^ Body Function Controller (BFC)
^ Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
^ Instrument Cluster
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Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4258
^ Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
^ Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM) - Supplemental Inflatable Restraint System (CKT 800
UART)
A combination of inputs from these components, other sensors and switches go to the computers
either as discrete/analog inputs, communicated on the communications link (called the Data Line
(circuit 1807 Class 2, or circuit 800 UART) and Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) [circuit 1321, circuit
1322 and circuit 1323]) to other computers.
Visual Inspection
One of the most important checks, which must be done before any diagnostic activity, is a careful
visual inspection of suspect wiring and components. This can often lead to fixing a malfunction
without further steps. Inspect the battery hydrometer (green eye) to assure the Battery is not
discharged. Inspect all vacuum and electrical circuits for pinches, cuts or disconnects. This visual
inspection is very important. It must be done carefully and thoroughly.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4259
Body Control Module: Reading and Clearing Diagnostic Trouble Codes
With Scan Tool
The procedure for reading diagnostic trouble code(s) is to use a diagnostic scan tool. Read
Diagnostic Trouble Codes Using a Tech 1, Tech 2 or Other Scan Tool.
When reading DTC(s), follow instructions supplied by tool manufacturer.
Without Scan Tool
A scan tool must be used to retrieve DTCs from the PCM memory. DTCs can no longer be
retrieved by grounding terminals "A" to "B" at the Data Link Connector (DLC). This also eliminates
the PCM function of flashing Code 12. The use of a Tech 1 scan tool or equivalent will be needed
to obtain both current and history DTCs.
Failure to follow this step could result in unnecessary repairs.
With Scan Tool
NOTE: Only clear DTC's when instructed to do so. All of the diagnostic data that was saved along
with the DTC will also be erased when the code is cleared. To clear Diagnostic Trouble Codes
(DTCs), use the diagnostic scan tool, "clear DTCs" or "clear info" function.
When clearing DTCs follow instructions supplied by the tool manufacturer.
To Clear DTCs From Memory:
^ Use a scan tool (recommended) Or
^ Ignition OFF for at least 10 seconds,
^ Disconnect the negative battery cable for 30 seconds (clears status flags).
Notice: Clearing the PCM DTC memory by disconnecting the battery will clear all PCM memories.
Since some operations (particularly IAC valve idle control) are learned, it may be necessary to
partially depress the accelerator pedal when re-starting the engine after PCM memory is cleared. It
may also be necessary to release the accelerator pedal very slowly when first returning to idle, to
prevent a stall. This will allow the PCM to re-learn IAC valve position. Learned operations may be
restored by normal driving.
Without Scan Tool
NOTE: Only clear DTC's when instructed to do so. All of the diagnostic data that was saved along
with the DTC will also be erased when the code is cleared.
A scan tool should be used to clear diagnostic trouble codes. When a scan tool is not available,
DTCs can also be cleared by disconnecting one of the following sources for at least thirty (30)
seconds:
NOTE: When codes are cleared in the following manner, a short period of poor driveablity could
result while the processor goes through a relearning process.
Caution: To prevent system damage, the ignition key must be "OFF" when disconnecting or
reconnecting battery power.
^ The power source to the control module. Examples: fuse, pigtail at battery PCM connectors etc.
^ The negative battery cable. (Disconnecting the negative battery cable may result in the loss of
other on-board memory data, such as preset radio tuning).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4260
Body Control Module: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Bulb Check General Description
The bulb check function resides in the Body Function Controller (BFC). Every time the Ignition
Switch transitions from ACC to RUN, an Instrument Cluster bulb check will occur for a calibrated
amount of time for specified indicators. Bulb check will override the OFF state of the affected
indicators. The Body Function Controller (BFC) will determine which indicators to bulb check by
looking at an EEPROM table. Every Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) indicator has a bit in the
EEPROM table. The gauges will WOW during a bulb check. A WOW is when all of the gauge
indicators are moved at the same time and all indicators are lit. If there is an indicator lit before the
WOW, the indicator shall remain lit after this function has concluded.
Compressor Controls
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and Body Function Controller (BFC) share hardware and
software for control of the AC Compressor Clutch. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and the
Body Function Controller (BFC) communicate this information over the serial data Class 2 line.
The Body Function Controller (BFC) performs the following software functions:
^ Limit Low Speed Compressor Operation
^ Prevent Clutch Slippage
^ High Coolant Temperature
^ Monitor for Overpressure
^ Determine Low Ambient Pressure
^ Control Compressor Clutch
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) performs the following functions:
^ Prevent Compressor Overspeed
^ Limit Compressor Speed (in PARK or NEUTRAL)
^ Drive Compressor Clutch
^ Perform Anti-Slug (Slugging is when a mass of liquid enters the AC Compressor Pump)
Interior Lighting Control
The Body Function Controller (BFC) provides the following interior lamp control:
^ Courtesy lamps.
^ Illuminated Entry control of Courtesy Lamps.
Courtesy Lamps are enabled by the following methods:
^ By discrete input to the Body Function Controller (BFC) from the door ajar switches.
^ If any of the doors are open and the vehicle speed is less than 13 km/h (8 mp/h).
^ If the Ignition Switch has been turned OFF for less than two minutes and then the doors are
closed, the lights will stay on for 4 seconds (or until the Ignition Switch is turned to the RUN
position).
^ If the Ignition Switch has been turned OFF for more than two minutes and then the doors are
closed, the lights will stay on for 40 seconds (or until the Ignition Switch is turned to the RUN
position).
^ If the Ignition Switch has been turned OFF for less than two minutes and the Ignition Key is
removed or the doors are opened, the lights will turn on for 15 seconds (or until the Ignition Key is
re-inserted or a door open switch is cycled).
^ Remote Control Door Lock Transmitter activation of the Driver Door Unlock or the Trunk Release
(function of Illuminated entry).
When the interior lights are to be turned off because a customer is leaving the vehicle (the Ignition
Switch is turned OFF for more than two minutes), they are first step dimmed, and then theater
dimmed to the OFF state. If the Ignition Switch is turned OFF for less than two minutes the interior
lights are theater dimmed to the OFF state in four seconds. If the customer sits in the vehicle and
the interior lights have turned OFF and the customer removes the Ignition Key the interior lights will
illuminate for 15 seconds.
Volts Indicator
The Volts indicator (red) will be illuminated under the following conditions:
^ Lamp Terminal pulled low: Key On (Bulb check)
- Open Field or Regulator Circuit
- Output voltage above overvoltage set point (no control)
- Low system voltage above Engine RPM calibrated value (Undervoltage)
- Open P terminal at the Voltage Regulator, shorted positive or negative bridge diode at P terminal
Field terminal voltage
- Condition indicate a voltage regulator disconnect (Low Duty Cycle)
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will determine Engine RPM, Generator Field Duty Cycle,
Lamp Terminal State, L term disabled and send these as Class 2 messages to the Body Function
Controller (BFC). The Body Function Controller (BFC) will then dictate to the Instrument Cluster the
state of the Volts indicator and set the appropriate fault codes.
There are four fault codes possible that will illuminate the volts indicator.
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Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4261
The Lamp Terminal Open/Short fault and the Field Terminal Short fault and their respective codes
can only be set and cleared with Ignition 1 active and zero engine RPM. Since the volts indicator is
illuminated with Ignition 1 active and zero engine RPM the faults that can occur under these
conditions cannot be communicated to the driver. Therefore, if either of these codes are set when
the engine is started the indicator will remain illuminated to indicate the fault. The Lamp Terminal
Open/Short program checks for a high lamp state while the Engine in not running. The Field
Terminal Short program checks for a duty cycle higher than a calibrated value while the engine is
not running. Both of these faults have a calibratable timer before setting.
The Field terminal fault and the Lamp terminal fault and their respective codes can only be set and
cleared with the engine running. The Body Function Controller (BFC) will diagnose a possible
voltage regulator disconnect (Field terminal fault) by monitoring the duty cycle and verifying it does
not fall below the calibrated value for a calibrated time. The Lamp terminal fault is set if the Lamp
terminal goes low for a calibrated time.
The volts algorithm tracks whether or not the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) has disabled the
Generator on a cold start or in a stall condition and will not set any field or lamp faults. The
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will not disable the generator for more than 10 seconds.
In the event of a Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or a Body Function Controller (BFC) Class 2 or
Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial data loss the Volts indicator will remain in its last state prior
to the loss of serial data.
Wake-Up/Asleep States
Wake-ups are signals that will turn the Body Function Controller (BFC) ON and cause it to begin
active control and/or monitoring. The Body Function Controller (BFC) is asleep when it has stopped
control or monitoring and has become idle again. The Body Function Controller (BFC) Wake-ups
are as follows:
^ Door Ajar Switches
^ Ignition Switch actuation
^ Inadvertent Power
^ Battery Guard
^ Remote Control Door Lock Receiver Driver Door Unlock actuation Trunk Release
The Body Function Controller will go to sleep and go into Battery Rundown Protection mode are as
follows:
^ Less than 24 km (15 miles), 3 minutes
^ Greater than 24 km (15 miles), 20 minutes
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4262
Body Control Module: Scan Tool Testing and Procedures
System Tests
System Tests, using the Scan Tool, allow for the display of values as actually seen or commanded
by the various computers (i.e. PCM, IC, SDM, EBCM, or BFC). The Test Types available are
dependent upon the System selected, but may include the following:
^ Data (Analog Inputs) - displays analog values as seen by the system.
^ Inputs and Outputs (Digital Inputs) - displays digital values as seen by the system and provides
an indication of whether the input or output has cycled.
^ Special Functions (Output Controls) - allows for outputs of the system to be set at a desired value
(ON or OFF).
^ Clear Codes - will erase all DTCs stored for the system currently selected (Note: If the
malfunction is still present, the DTC may immediately reset).
Body Main Menu
The scan tool software is broken into major computer controller groups that are found in the body
of the vehicle.
The Body Function Controller (BFC), in addition to being an element of the Class 2 serial data link,
also has hardwired inputs as do the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Electronic Brake Control
Module (EBCM), the Instrument Cluster, and the Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM).
Some of these inputs are used to display information for the Instrument Cluster gauges and
indicators while other inputs are converted into serial data link and transmitted on the Class 2 serial
data link and the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial data link.
The Body Function Controller (BFC) is the only interface to the Instrument Cluster, the Body
Function Controller (BFC) converts Class 2 data to Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) for the
Instrument Cluster. The choice of inputs that can be read are listed in TABLE #1.
TABLE #1 - BODY MAIN MENU
Function Supplemental Inflatable Restraint Body Function Controller
Entertainment and Comfort Bus
Features Menu
Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool can navigate through various modes of information
gathering modes; Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC), Data Display, Snapshot, and Special
Functions. The Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) menu allow the technician to view the error codes
set by the Body Function Controller (BFC). The Data Display menu allows the technician to view
what the current state the various Body Function Controllers inputs and outputs. The Snapshot
menu function allows the technician to view and store the inputs as an aid in diagnosis of
multi-system faults. The Special Functions menu allows the technician to actuate the Body
Function Controller's outputs. The choice of inputs that can be read are listed in TABLE #2.
Diagnostic Trouble Code Menu
In this mode the technician is allowed to view and clear current and history Diagnostic Trouble
Codes (DTC).
Data Display Menu
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Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4263
Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool allows the technician to command the Body Function
Controller (BFC) to display its various inputs, outputs, and Instrument Cluster information for ease
in diagnosis. This mode can be used to determine whether the Body Function Controller (BFC) is
receiving data correctly from the Body Function Controller (BFC) inputs, the Instrument Cluster or
the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and if the computer systems are operating properly. The
choice of inputs that can be read are listed in TABLE #3.
Module Information Menu
Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool can command the Body Function Controller (BFC) to read
from the instrument Cluster pertinent information about the Instrument Cluster (Part Number,
Calibration ID and the year of construction), the information that can be read is listed in TABLE #4.
PCM to BFC A/C Clutch Data
Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool can command the Body Function Controller (BFC) to read
its various data inputs from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). This mode can be used to
determine whether the Body Function Controller (BFC) is receiving data correctly from the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and if the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is allowing the A/C
Compressor to function. The inputs that can be read are listed in TABLE #5
Security Data
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4264
Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool reads the Vehicle Theft Deterrent data in the Body Function
Controller (BFC). The outputs that can be viewed are listed in TABLE #9.
Data
Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool can command the Body Function Controller (BFC) to read
its various analog data inputs. This mode can be used to determine whether the Body Function
Controller (BFC) is receiving analog data correctly or if a component is operating properly. The
inputs that can be read are listed on TABLE #6.
Inputs
Description
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4265
In this mode of operation, the scan tool can command the Body Function Controller (BFC) to read
its various inputs. This mode can be used to determine whether the Body Function Controller
(BFC) is receiving data correctly or if a component is operating properly. The inputs that can be
read are listed on TABLE #7.
Outputs
Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool can command the Body Function Controller (BFC) to
override its normal operation and force the Body Function Controller (BFC) to enable its outputs
(engage relays, operate Courtesy Lighting, etc). This mode can be used to determine whether the
Body Function Controller (BFC) is capable of producing a given output. The outputs that can be
controlled are listed in TABLE #8.
SPI Data
Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool can command the Instrument Cluster via Body Function
Controller (BFC) to determine proper Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) data bus operation. The data
that can be displayed is listed in TABLE #10.
BFC to Cluster Data
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Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4266
Description
In this mode of operation the scan tool can command the Instrument Cluster, by Class 2 message
to the Body Function Controller (BFC) and via the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial data bus
to override its normal operation and force the Instrument Cluster to enable its outputs (gauges
move, indicators lit etc). This mode can be used to determine whether the Instrument Cluster is
capable of producing a given output. The outputs that can be controlled are listed in TABLE #11.
Snapshot
The SNAPSHOT function is the same one used to capture DTCs for the Powertrain Control
Module.
Special Functions Menu
Description
In this mode of operation the technician is capable of turning on and off almost all of the Body
Function Controller (BFC) outputs. The functions that can be controlled are found under the Output
Control menu. The information in TABLE #12 shows what outputs the scan tool can command.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Body Function Controller (BFC) Replacement
Body Control Module: Service and Repair Body Function Controller (BFC) Replacement
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Right sound insulator. 3. BFC assembly. 4. BFC connectors in the
following order: Pink Connector C3 first, then C1 and C2.
Install or Connect
1. BFC connectors in the following order: C1, C2 and Pink connector C3 last. 2. BFC Module 3.
Right sound insulator. 4. Negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Body Function Controller (BFC) Replacement > Page 4269
Body Control Module: Service and Repair Body Function Controller Reprogramming Procedure
IMPORTANT
When removing the Body Function Controller (BFC) disconnect connector C3 FIRST, then
disconnect the remaining connectors. When installing the Body Function Controller (BFC) connect
connectors C1 and C2 first. ALWAYS connect connector C3 LAST.
USING A SCAN TOOL AND TECHLINE TERMINAL TO CONFIGURE THE BODY FUNCTION
CONTROLLER
1. Connect the scan tool to vehicle diagnostic connector, and choose Service Programming from
the scan tool Main Menu. 2. After entering the vehicle information, choose the Request Info soft
key on the scan tool. 3. Disconnect the scan tool from the vehicle and connect the scan tool to the
Techline Terminal. 4. At the Techline Terminal, select Service Programming System (SPS). 5.
Select Terminal to scan tool programming method. 6. Select Done and follow instructions on the
Communications Setup screen. 7. Select Program Body Function Controller. 8. Select Program at
the Summary screen. The terminal will download in formation to the Scan tool. 9. Return to the
vehicle and connect the scan tool to the diagnostic connector.
10. Select Service Programming from the scan tool Main Menu. 11. Answer the prompts regarding
model year and vehicle type. Press the Body Function Controller soft key on scan tool. The Body
Function
Controller will be programmed with the configuration file stored in the scan tool.
12. Reprogram the Theft Deterrent System. 13. Reprogram the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
14. Verify the repair.
TROUBLESHOOTING HINTS:
^ Make the following checks before beginning system diagnosis. 1. Check all fuses by visual
inspection. 2. Ensure that all connectors in system are mated correctly. 3. Check for open in Class
2 serial data link (CKT 1807). 4. Check for an open in the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial
data link (CKT 1321, 1322, 1323). 5. Do NOT replace the Body Function Controller (BFC) with only
History Codes set.
^ Check for a broken (or partially broken) wire inside of the insulation which could cause system
failure but prove GOOD in a continuity/voltage check.
^ Check for proper installation of aftermarket electronic equipment which may affect the integrity of
their systems.
^ Check that all grounds are tight and clean.
^ Refer to System Diagnosis.
SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
^ Perform the Body Function Controller (BFC) Diagnostic System Check and refer to the Symptom
Table for the appropriate diagnostic procedures.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Body Function Controller (BFC) Replacement > Page 4270
Body Control Module: Service and Repair Reprogramming Procedure - Auto - Learn
The following procedure allows for anyone to reprogram the Body Function Controller (BFC)
Learned Data Code without any tools (other than the scan tool) when a new Ignition Switch,
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), and/or the BFC is installed. The following is the auto learn
procedure:
The BFC will set the DTC 3031 Controller in learn mode when entering the reprogramming
procedure.
1. Clear all DTC's 2. Turn the Ignition Switch to the START position. 3. The vehicle will start and
then stall. 4. Turn the Ignition Switch to the RUN position until the THEFT SYSTEM indicator turns
off (approximately 10 minutes). 5. Turn the Ignition Switch to the OFF position then back to the
RUN position. 6. The BFC will learn the new data on the next start attempt. 7. Reprogram the PCM
to allow the PCM to learn the new Passlock (TM) code.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Specifications
Camshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Camshaft Position Sensor Bolt ............................................................................................................
........................................................... 10 Nm (8 lb ft)
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Component Information > Specifications > Page 4274
Top Rear Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4277
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4278
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4279
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4280
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4281
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4282
Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4298
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4299
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4300
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4301
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4302
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4303
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4304
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4305
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4306
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4307
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4308
Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4309
Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Camshaft Position Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) sends a cam signal to the PCM which uses it as a sync
pulse to trigger the injectors in proper sequence. The CAM signal is passed through the ignition
control module. It is filtered and buffered by the ignition control module, but the signal is not
processed in any other way. The PCM uses the CAM signal to indicate the position of the #1 piston
during its power stroke. This allows the PCM to calculate true Sequential Fuel Injection (SFI) mode
of operation. If the PCM detects an incorrect CAM signal while the engine is running, DTC P0341
will set.
If the CAM signal is lost while the engine is running, the fuel injection system will shift to a
calculated sequential fuel injection mode based on the last fuel injection pulse, and the engine will
continue to run. The engine can be restarted and will run in the calculated sequential mode as long
as the fault is present with a 1 in 6 chance of injector sequence being correct. Refer to DTC P0341/
Diagnostic Trouble Code Tables for further information. See: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4310
Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
Camshaft Position Sensor
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the serpentine drive belt. 3. Refer to Steering
and Suspension for removal of power steering pump assembly. 4. Remove the electrical connector.
5. Remove the bolt. 6. Remove the sensor.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the Camshaft Position Sensor.
Tighten Retaining bolt to 10 Nm (8 lb. ft.).
2. Install the electrical Connector 3. Install the power steering pump. 4. Install the serpentine drive
belt.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Specifications > Electrical Specifications
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Electrical Specifications
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
100°C (212°F) .....................................................................................................................................
......................................................... 177 Ohms 90°C (194°F) ............................................................
................................................................................................................................... 241 Ohms 80°C
(176°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 332 Ohms 70°C (158°F) ......................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 467 Ohms 60°C
(140°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 667 Ohms 50°C (122°F) ......................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 973 Ohms 40°C
(104°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 1,459 Ohms 30°C (86°F) ........................................................................
...................................................................................................................... 2,238 Ohms 20°C
(68°F) ..................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 3,520 Ohms 10°C (50°F) ........................................................................
...................................................................................................................... 5,670 Ohms 0°C (32°F)
..............................................................................................................................................................
................................. 9,420 Ohms -10°C (14°F) ..................................................................................
.......................................................................................................... 16,180 Ohms -20°C (-4°F) .......
..............................................................................................................................................................
........................ 28,680 Ohms -30°C (-22°F) .......................................................................................
.................................................................................................... 52,700 Ohms -40°C (-40°F) ...........
..............................................................................................................................................................
................ 100,700 Ohms
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Specifications > Electrical Specifications > Page 4315
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Mechanical Specifications
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
............................................................................................................................................... 23 Nm
(17 lb. ft.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Specifications > Page 4316
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Specifications > Page 4317
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is a thermistor (a resistor which changes value
based on temperature) mounted in the engine coolant stream. Low coolant temperature produces a
high resistance (100,000 ohms at -40°C/-40°F) while high temperature causes low resistance (70
ohms at 130°C/266°F).
OPERATION
The PCM supplies a 5 volt signal to the engine coolant temperature sensor through a resistor in the
PCM and measures the voltage. The voltage will be high when the engine is cold, and low when
the engine is hot. By measuring the voltage, the PCM calculates the engine coolant temperature.
Engine coolant temperature affects most systems the PCM controls.
The scan tool displays engine coolant temperature in degrees. After engine start-up, the
temperature should rise steadily to about 90°C (194°F) then stabilize when thermostat opens. If the
engine has not been run for several hours (overnight) the engine coolant temperature and intake
air temperature displays should be close to each other. A hard fault in the engine coolant sensor
circuit should set DTC P0117 or DTC P0118; an intermittent fault should set a DTC P1114 or
P1115. The DTC Diagnostic Aids also contains a chart to check for sensor resistance values
relative to temperature.
The ECT sensor also contains another circuit which is used to operate the engine coolant
temperature gauge located in the instrument panel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Specifications > Page 4318
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Relieve coolant pressure. 2. Air intake duct. 3. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 4. Remove
the electrical connector. 5. Using a deep well socket and extension, remove the sensor.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Coat engine coolant temperature sensor threads with sealer P/N 9985253 or equivalent. 2.
Install the sensor in the engine.
Tighten Sensor to 23 Nm (17 lb. ft.).
3. Install the electrical connector. 4. Air intake duct. 5. Connect the negative battery cable. 6. Start
the engine. 7. Check for leaks. 8. Check the coolant level, replenish as needed.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Specifications > 24X Crankshaft Position Sensor
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications 24X Crankshaft Position Sensor
Camshaft Position Sensor Bolt ............................................................................................................
......................................................... 10 Nm (8 lb. ft.)
Crankshaft Balancer Bolt Torque [1]
...................................................................................................................................................... 150
Nm (110 lb. ft.)
[1] Apply thread sealer GM # 1052080 or equivalent to threads.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Specifications > 24X Crankshaft Position Sensor > Page 4323
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications 7X Crankshaft Position Sensor
Crankshaft Sensor Bolt Torque ...........................................................................................................
.......................................................... 8 Nm (71 lb in.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > 7X Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP)
Lower Rear Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > 7X Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) > Page 4326
Lower Front Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Connector Views
7x Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
24x Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
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Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
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Component Information > Description and Operation > Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 3X
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 3X
3X Reference Low
The PCM uses this signal, from the ignition control module to calculate engine speed and
crankshaft position over 1280 RPM. The PCM also uses the pulses on this circuit to initiate injector
pulses. If the PCM receives no pulses on this circuit, DTC P1374 will set and the PCM will use the
24X reference signal circuit for fuel and ignition control.
This is a ground circuit for the digital RPM counter inside the PCM, but the wire is connected to
engine ground only through the ignition control module. Although this circuit is electrically
connected to the PCM, it is not connected to ground at the PCM. The PCM compares voltage
pulses on the reference input circuits to pulses on this circuit, ignoring pulses that appear on both.
Refer to Electronic Ignition System for further information.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 7X
Description
The 7x crankshaft position sensor is the other Hall-effect switch closer to the crankshaft. The
interrupter ring is a special wheel cast on the crankshaft that has seven machined slots. six of
which are equally spaced 60 degrees apart. The seventh slot is spaced 10 degrees from one of the
other slots. as the interrupter ring rotates with the crankshaft, the slots change the magnetic field.
this will cause the 7x the Hall-effect switch to ground the 3X signal voltage that is supplied by the
ignition control module. The ignition control module interprets the 7x on-off signals as an indication
of crankshaft position. The ignition control module must have the 7x signal to fire the correct
ignition coil.
Operation
The crankshaft position sensor provides a signal used by the ignition control module. The ignition
control module also uses the 7X crankshaft position sensor to generate 3X reference pulses which
the PCM uses to calculate RPM and crankshaft position Refer to Electronic Ignition System for
additional information.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 3X > Page 4365
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 24X
24X Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The 24X crankshaft position sensor (1), secured in, an aluminum mounting bracket and bolted to
the front left side of the engine timing chain cover, is partially behind the crankshaft. A 3-wire
harness connector plugs into the sensor, connecting it to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
The 24X Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor is used to improve idle spark control at engine speeds
up to approximately 1250 RPM.
OPERATION
The 24X crankshaft position sensor contains one Hall-effect switch and magnet. The magnet and
Hall-effect switch are separated by an air gap. A Hall-effect switch reacts like a solid state switch,
grounding a low current signal voltage when a magnetic field is present. When the magnetic field is
shielded from the switch by a piece of steel placed in the air gap between the magnet and the
switch, the signal voltage is not grounded. If the piece of steel (called an interrupter) is repeatedly
moved in and out of the air gap, the signal voltage will appear to go ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF.
Compared to a conventional mechanical distributor, this ON-OFF signal is similar to the signal that
a set of breaker points in the distributor would generate as the distributor shaft turned and the
points opened and closed. In the case of the electronic ignition system, the piece of steel is the
concentric interrupter ring mounted to the rear of the crankshaft balancer. The interrupter ring has
blades and windows that, with crankshaft rotation, either block the magnetic field or allow it to close
the Hall-effect switch. The Hall-effect switch produces a signal called the CKP 24X because the
interrupter ring has 24 evenly spaced blades and windows. When a CKP 24X interrupter ring
window is between the magnet and Hall-effect switch, the magnetic field will cause the CKP 24X
Hall-effect switch to ground the CKP 24X signal voltage supplied from the PCM. The CKP 24X
portion of the crankshaft position sensor produces 24 ON-OFF pulses per crankshaft revolution.
The 24X signal allows the PCM to determine a more precise crankshaft position at lower RPM.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
The crankshaft position system variation compensating values are stored in the PCM non-volatile
memory after a learn procedure has been performed. If the actual crankshaft position system
variation is not within the crankshaft position system variation compensating values stored in the
PCM, DTC P0300 may set refer to DTC P0300 Engine Misfire Detected. See: Testing and
Inspection
The Crankshaft Position System Variation Learn Procedure should be performed if any of the
following conditions are true:
^ DTC P1336 is set.
^ The PCM has been replaced.
^ The PCM has been reprogrammed.
^ The engine has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft harmonic balancer has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft position sensor has been replaced.
Important: The scan tool crankshaft position system variation learn function will be inhibited if
engine coolant temperature is less than 70°C (156°F). Allow the engine to warm to at least 70°C
(156°F) before attempting the crankshaft position system variation learn procedure.
The scan tool crankshaft position system variation learn function will be inhibited if any powertrain
DTCs other than DTC P1336 are set before or during the crankshaft position system variation learn
procedure. Diagnose and repair any DTCs if set. The crankshaft position system variation learn
function will be inhibited if the PCM detects a malfunction involving the camshaft position signal
circuit, the 3X reference circuit, or the 24X reference circuit.
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the Cam signal, refer to DTC P0341 CMP Sensor Circuit
Performance. See: Testing and Inspection
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the 3X crank signal, refer to DTC P1374 3X Reference
Circuit. See: Testing and Inspection
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the 24X crank signal, refer to DTC P0336 24X Reference
Signal Circuit. See: Testing and Inspection
1. Set the parking brake. 2. Start the engine and allow engine coolant temperature to reach at least
70°C (158°F). 3. Turn OFF the ignition switch. 4. Select the crankshaft position variation learn
procedure from the scan tool special functions list. 5. Follow the instructions displayed on the scan
tool. If the procedure is terminated, refer to Important above for instructions. 6. Observe DTC status
for DTC P1336. 7. If the scan tool indicates that DTC P1336 ran and passed, the crankshaft
position system variation learn procedure is complete. If the scan tool
indicates DTC P1336 failed or not run, check for other DTCs. If no DTCs other than P1336 are set,
repeat the crankshaft position system variation learn procedure as necessary.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement (7X)
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement (7X)
7X Crank Shaft Position (CKP) Sensor
Removal Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. 3.
Remove the CKP electrical connector. 4. Remove the CKP fastener. 5. Remove the CKP sensor
from the Engine Block. 6. if the CKP sensor is going to be re-used inspect the sensor for the
following:
6.1. Inspect the CKP sensor for wear, cracks, or leakage. Replace the O-ring if necessary. 6.2.
Lubricate the new O-ring with clean engine oil before installing
Installation Procedure
1. Install the CKP sensor to the block. 2. Install the bolt to hold the CKP sensor to the block face.
Tighten ^
Tighten the bolt to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
3. Connect the electrical connector. 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement (24X)
24X Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the serpentine drive belt from crankshaft
pulley. 3. Raise the vehicle on hoist. 4. Remove the crankshaft harmonic balancer retaining bolt. 5.
Remove the crankshaft harmonic balancer using special tool (J 24420-B) or equivalent. 6. Note the
routing of sensor harness before removal. 7. Remove the harness retaining clip with bolt (1). 8.
Remove the sensor electrical connector. 9. Remove the sensor bolts (2).
10. Remove the sensor.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the 24X Crankshaft Position Sensor with bolts (2) and route harness as noted during
removal. 2. Install the harness retaining clip with bolt (1).
Tighten Bolts to 10 Nm (8 lb. ft.).
3. Install the sensor electrical connector. 4. Install the balancer on the crankshaft using special tool
(J 29113) or equivalent. 5. Apply thread sealer GM #1052080 or equivalent to threads of the
crankshaft harmonic balancer bolt.
Tighten Bolt to 150 Nm (110 lb. ft.).
6. Lower vehicle. 7. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations
Left Side Of I/P
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Data Link Connector: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Data Link Connector: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4401
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4402
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4403
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4404
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4405
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4406
Data Link Connector (DLC)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4407
Data Link Connector (DLC)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Circuit Operation
Data Link Connector: Description and Operation Circuit Operation
The Data Link Connector (DLC) is provided to enable communications with specific control
modules using an external scan tool. The use of the scan tool in control module diagnostics is
described in the Driveability and Emissions, Supplemental Inflatable Restraints, Antilock Brakes,
and Computer System Diagnosis service manual sections. There are two data lines that can be
accessed with a scan tool. The Serial Data Line-ART (800 circuit) allows the scan tool to
communicate with the Sensing Diagnostic Module.
The Serial Data Line-Class 2 (1807 circuit) allows internal communications between the Body
Function Controller (BFC), Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM), and Powertrain Control
Module (PCM), as well as with the external scan tool.
A module to module communication failure due to wiring problems may also result in
communication failure with the scan tool.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Circuit Operation > Page 4410
Data Link Connector: Description and Operation Class 2 Data Line
Class 2 data is a high speed data transmission. To control serial data line traffic, Class 2 uses the
peer to peer method along with message arbitration to manage data line traffic. The control
modules on the Class 2 data line are:
^ Body Function Controller (BFC)
^ Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
^ Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Circuit Operation > Page 4411
Data Link Connector: Description and Operation General Description
Data Link Connector (DLC)
DESCRIPTION
The provision for communicating with the control module is the Data Link Connector (DLC). It is
usually located under the instrument panel. The DLC is used to connect to a scan tool. Some
common uses of the scan tool are listed below:
- Identifying stored Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs).
- Clearing DTCs
- Performing output control tests.
- Reading serial data.
Class II Serial Data
U.S. Federal regulations require that all automobile manufacturers establish a common
communications system. General Motors utilizes the Class II communications system. Each bit of
information can have one of two lengths: long or short. This allows vehicle wiring to be reduced by
the transmission and reception of multiple signals over a single wire. The messages carried on
Class II data streams are also prioritized. In other words, if two messages attempt to establish
communications on the data line at the same time, only the message with higher priority will
continue. The device with the lower priority message must wait. The most significant result of this
regulation is that the regulation provides scan tool manufacturers with the capability of accessing
data from any make or model vehicle sold in the United States.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Circuit Operation > Page 4412
Data Link Connector: Description and Operation Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI)
The Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) is a three wire interface connecting the Body Function
Controller (BFC) to the Instrument Cluster, which allows for them to exchange information. This
interface is a synchronous serial data link where the Body Function Controller (BFC) is the master
and the Instrument Cluster is the slave. Because of the need for modules on the different serial
data links to communicate with each other, the Body Function Controller (BFC) acts as an
interpreter, or master, for data communication between the Class 2 and Serial Peripheral Interface
(SPI) data lines.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > EGR Valve Position Sensor
> Component Information > Description and Operation
EGR Valve Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Linear EGR Valve
DESCRIPTION
The EGR pintle position sensor is an integral part of the EGR valve assembly. This sensor can not
be serviced separately from the EGR valve.
The PCM monitors the EGR valve pintle position input to ensure that the valve responds properly
to commands from the PCM and to detect a fault if the pintle position sensor and control circuits
are open or shorted. If the PCM detects a pintle position signal voltage outside the normal range of
the pintle position sensor, or a signal voltage that is not within a tolerance considered acceptable
for proper EGR system operation, the PCM will set DTC P1406.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 77-65-29 > Nov > 97 > Instruments - Cluster
Resets When Ham Radio Is Keyed
Engine Control Module: Customer Interest Instruments - Cluster Resets When Ham Radio Is
Keyed
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-29
Date: November, 1997
Subject: Instrument Cluster Resets when On-board Ham Radio is Keyed (Replace the PCM)
Models: 1997 Buick Century, Regal 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with
310013800 V6 Engine (VINs M, K, 1 - RPOs L82, L36, L67)
Condition Some vehicles may experience an instrument cluster reset if the vehicle has an on-board
Ham radio operating under the 10 MHz frequency range and the transmitter is keyed on.
Correction A new PCM has been released to correct this condition. The new PCM has a 47 Micro
Henry choke in place to eliminate the interference generated by the on-board Ham radio
equipment.
Do not forget to transfer the Knock Sensor Module from the old PCM into the new PCM.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Code Labor Time
J6360 PCM, Replace Use Published Labor Operation Time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable
Engine Idle
Engine Control Module: Customer Interest PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-17
Date: July, 1997
Subject: Unstable Engine Idle (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with 3100 V6 Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
Condition
Some owners may experience an unstable engine idle. The controlled engine idle may vary
approximately 50 RPM from desired idle. This typically occurs during an extended idle period
beyond 30 seconds with the transmission in park or neutral and the air conditioning turned off.
Cause
The Pre Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S1) voltage output is driven low and holds there
(lean). The Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2s2) voltage output will hold then at a high
voltage (rich). This can drive one sensor to cancel out the other thus not allowing fuel trim or the
Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor can take over fuel trim control. If the Post Converter
Heated Oxygen takes over fuel trim control, the system thinks it is running rich and the Long Term
Fuel Trim will make adjustments to lean the system. Either of these conditions will cause a rolling
or hunting idle.
Correction
Check the calibration identification number utilizing a scan tool device. Re-flash with the updated
calibration if the current calibration is not one listed in this bulletin. If the vehicle already has the
most recent calibration, then refer to the appropriate service repair manual to diagnose and repair.
Test drive the vehicle after repair to ensure that the condition has been corrected. The new
calibrations are available from the GM Service Technology Group starting with CD number 12 for
1997.
Important:
There are three methods for programming a PCM
1. Direct Programming. The vehicle is directly connected via the Data Link Connector (DLC) on the
Dealers/Retailers Techline equipment. (T-20 Plus, T-50 and T-60 only) Vehicle must be present.
2. Remote programming. The new program is downloaded into the Dealers/Retailers scan tool and
then downloaded into the vehicle from the scan tool via the DLC. Tech 2 required. Vehicle must be
present.
3. Off-Car Programming. A PCM may be programmed while removed from the vehicle by using the
off-board programming adapter (OBPA), P/N 41207-B. This adapter can be connected to either the
Techline Terminal for direct programming or the scan tool for remote programming. Not necessary
for the vehicle to be present.
Refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Techline Information for more detailed instructions.
Parts Information
Part Number Carline Emission
16266904 Malibu, Cutlass USA Nationwide
16266914 Malibu, Cutlass Canadian/Unleaded
Export
16266924 Malibu Leaded Export
Important:
Do not attempt to order the calibrations from GMSPO. The calibrations are programmed into the
vehicle's PCM via a Techline Tool device.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable
Engine Idle > Page 4428
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: >
04-06-04-054B > Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory
Usage
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-054B
Date: November 18, 2010
Subject: Info - Non-GM Parts and Accessories (Aftermarket)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years and update to the new U.S. Fixed
Operation Manager (FOM) and Canada Warranty Manager (WM) names. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 04-06-04-054A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
The recent rise and expansion of companies selling non-GM parts and accessories has made it
necessary to issue this reminder to dealers regarding GM's policy on the use and installation of
these aftermarket components.
When a dealer is performing a repair under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty, they are required to
use only genuine GM or GM-approved parts and accessories. This applies to all warranty repairs,
special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM. Parts and accessories advertised as being "the
same" as parts manufactured by GM, but not sold through GM, do not qualify for use in warranty
repairs, special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM.
During a warranty repair, if a GM original equipment part is not available through GM Customer
Care and Aftersales (GM CC&A;), ACDelco(R) distributors, other GM dealers or approved sources,
the dealer is to obtain comparable, non-GM parts and clearly indicate, in detail, on the repair order
the circumstances surrounding why non-GM parts were used. The dealer must give customers
written notice, prior to the sale or service, that such parts or accessories are not marketed or
warranted by General Motors.
It should also be noted that dealers modifying new vehicles and installing equipment, parts and
accessories obtained from sources not authorized by GM are responsible for complying with the
National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. Certain non-approved parts or assemblies, installed
by the dealer or its agent not authorized by GM, may result in a change to the vehicle's design
characteristics and may affect the vehicle's ability to conform to federal law. Dealers must fully
understand that non-GM approved parts may not have been validated, tested or certified for use.
This puts the dealer at risk for potential liability in the event of a part or vehicle failure. If a GM part
failure occurs as the result of the installation or use of a non-GM approved part, the warranty will
not be honored.
A good example of non-authorized modification of vehicles is the result of an ever increasing
supply of aftermarket devices available to the customer, which claim to increase the horsepower
and torque of the Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines. These include the addition of, but are not limited to
one or more of the following modifications:
- Propane injection
- Nitrous oxide injection
- Additional modules (black boxes) that connect to the vehicle wiring systems
- Revised engine calibrations downloaded for the engine control module
- Calibration modules which connect to the vehicle diagnostic connector
- Modification to the engine turbocharger waste gate
Although the installation of these devices, or modification of vehicle components, can increase
engine horsepower and torque, they may also negatively affect the engine emissions, reliability
and/or durability. In addition, other powertrain components, such as transmissions, universal joints,
drive shafts, and front/rear axle components, can be stressed beyond design safety limits by the
installation of these devices.
General Motors does not support or endorse the use of devices or modifications that, when
installed, increase the engine horsepower and torque. It is because of these unknown stresses,
and the potential to alter reliability, durability and emissions performance, that GM has adopted a
policy that prevents any UNAUTHORIZED dealer warranty claim submissions to any remaining
warranty coverage, to the powertrain and driveline components whenever the presence of a
non-GM (aftermarket) calibration is confirmed - even if the non-GM control module calibration is
subsequently removed. Refer to the latest version of Bulletin 09-06-04-026 (V8 Gas Engines) or
06-06-01-007 (Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines) for more information on dealer requirements for
calibration verification.
These same policies apply as they relate to the use of non-GM accessories. Damage or failure
from the use or installation of a non-GM accessory will not be covered under warranty. Failure
resulting from the alteration or modification of the vehicle, including the cutting, welding or
disconnecting of the vehicle's original equipment parts and components will void the warranty.
Additionally, dealers will NOT be reimbursed or compensated by GM in the event of any legal
inquiry at either the local, state or federal level that
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: >
04-06-04-054B > Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage > Page 4434
results from the alteration or modification of a vehicle using non-GM approved parts or accessories.
Dealers should be especially cautious of accessory companies that claim the installation of their
product will not void the factory warranty. Many times these companies have even given direction
on how to quickly disassemble the accessory in an attempt to preclude the manufacturer from
finding out that is has been installed.
Any suspect repairs should be reviewed by the Fixed Operations Manager (FOM), and in Canada
by the Warranty Manager (WM) for appropriate repair direction. If it is decided that a goodwill repair
is to be made on the vehicle, even with the installation of such non-GM approved components, the
customer is to be made aware of General Motors position on this issue and is to sign the
appropriate goodwill documentation required by General Motors.
It is imperative for dealers to understand that by installing such devices, they are jeopardizing not
only the warranty coverage, but also the performance and reliability of the customer's vehicle.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: >
02-08-116-001 > Jan > 02 > PCM - Intermittent Communication or DTC Codes Stored
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM - Intermittent Communication or DTC
Codes Stored
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 02-08-116-001
Date: January, 2002
INFORMATION
Subject: Intermittent Communication or Serial Data DTC Codes Stored in History
Models: 1997-2002 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2002 Oldsmobile Alero 1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass
1999-2002 Pontiac Grand Am with 3.1L or 3.4L Engine (VINs J, M, E - RPOs LG8, L82, LA1)
Ignition Switch Usage
It is possible to set a Serial Data DTC Code with improper usage of the ignition switch. On the
above vehicles, if the ignition key is held between the ACCESSORY and ON position for over 5
seconds, and then rotated to ON and START sequentially, it is possible to set various DTC codes.
The customer may see an illuminated Service Engine Soon, ABS and/or ETS OFF (Electronic
Traction System) telltale. The next time the ignition switch is cycled, any set DTC codes will be
stored in history and any telltales will be turned off.
Important:
If the above condition is encountered and the ETS OFF and ABS lights are illuminated, the ABS
and ETS systems will be deactivated for that key cycle. Normal functioning of these systems will
resume with the next key cycle.
Why Does This Happen?
If the ignition switch is held between the ACCESSORY and ON detent positions, it is possible to
find a spot where the Ignition 1 input will be lost. If this condition remains for over 5 seconds, the
PCM will interpret the loss of that signal as a communication fault and set an appropriate DTC
code.
How to Resolve This Issue
^ Instruct the customer on the proper operation of the ignition switch.
^ Instruct the customer not to "fiddle" with the switch. Actions such as slowly turning the key in
order to see what instrument panel displays light in what order should be discouraged.
^ Do not attempt to hold the switch between detent positions.
^ Assure the customer that no fault exists in the vehicle and that under normal operating
conditions, this concern should not reappear.
^ There are no possible software changes that will prevent the above condition.
^ Do not attempt to replace the ignition switch to remedy this condition.
^ You may clear the history codes to eliminate any later diagnostic confusion. Refer to the Tech 2
Diagnostic Scan Tool Operating Manual for specific instructions on clearing history codes.
Important:
Do not attempt any repairs on the vehicle to remedy this condition.
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: >
83-81-32 > Sep > 98 > PCM Connector - Information on New Service Kits
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM Connector - Information on New
Service Kits
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-81-32
Date: September, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: New Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Connector Service Kits
Models: 1996-99 All Passenger Cars except Geo and Catera
Two new kits have been released to service the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connector If the
connector has been damaged during servicing. This PCM has an aluminum body and is usually
mounted underhood.
Kit (P/N 12167308) contains the 80 way connector body, the cover, two each of four different
terminal retainers and 25 empty cavity plugs. No terminals are included.
If terminals are needed, use P/N 12084913 for 0.35 mm and 0.50 mm wire and P/N 12084912 for
0.80 mm wire. These terminals are included in the terminal repair kit J 38125A or B, and
replacements can be ordered from Kent-Moore.
kit (P/N 12167313) contains one connector seal. Whenever the connector is unbolted from the
aluminum body of the PCM, the seal can stick to the body, or may be twisted. This seal should be
replaced whenever the connector is removed in service.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12167308 Kit, PCM Harness Repair
12167313 Seal Kit, PCM Connector
12084912 Terminal
12084913 Terminal
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: >
77-65-29 > Nov > 97 > Instruments - Cluster Resets When Ham Radio Is Keyed
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Instruments - Cluster Resets When Ham
Radio Is Keyed
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-29
Date: November, 1997
Subject: Instrument Cluster Resets when On-board Ham Radio is Keyed (Replace the PCM)
Models: 1997 Buick Century, Regal 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with
310013800 V6 Engine (VINs M, K, 1 - RPOs L82, L36, L67)
Condition Some vehicles may experience an instrument cluster reset if the vehicle has an on-board
Ham radio operating under the 10 MHz frequency range and the transmitter is keyed on.
Correction A new PCM has been released to correct this condition. The new PCM has a 47 Micro
Henry choke in place to eliminate the interference generated by the on-board Ham radio
equipment.
Do not forget to transfer the Knock Sensor Module from the old PCM into the new PCM.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Code Labor Time
J6360 PCM, Replace Use Published Labor Operation Time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: >
77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-17
Date: July, 1997
Subject: Unstable Engine Idle (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with 3100 V6 Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
Condition
Some owners may experience an unstable engine idle. The controlled engine idle may vary
approximately 50 RPM from desired idle. This typically occurs during an extended idle period
beyond 30 seconds with the transmission in park or neutral and the air conditioning turned off.
Cause
The Pre Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S1) voltage output is driven low and holds there
(lean). The Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2s2) voltage output will hold then at a high
voltage (rich). This can drive one sensor to cancel out the other thus not allowing fuel trim or the
Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor can take over fuel trim control. If the Post Converter
Heated Oxygen takes over fuel trim control, the system thinks it is running rich and the Long Term
Fuel Trim will make adjustments to lean the system. Either of these conditions will cause a rolling
or hunting idle.
Correction
Check the calibration identification number utilizing a scan tool device. Re-flash with the updated
calibration if the current calibration is not one listed in this bulletin. If the vehicle already has the
most recent calibration, then refer to the appropriate service repair manual to diagnose and repair.
Test drive the vehicle after repair to ensure that the condition has been corrected. The new
calibrations are available from the GM Service Technology Group starting with CD number 12 for
1997.
Important:
There are three methods for programming a PCM
1. Direct Programming. The vehicle is directly connected via the Data Link Connector (DLC) on the
Dealers/Retailers Techline equipment. (T-20 Plus, T-50 and T-60 only) Vehicle must be present.
2. Remote programming. The new program is downloaded into the Dealers/Retailers scan tool and
then downloaded into the vehicle from the scan tool via the DLC. Tech 2 required. Vehicle must be
present.
3. Off-Car Programming. A PCM may be programmed while removed from the vehicle by using the
off-board programming adapter (OBPA), P/N 41207-B. This adapter can be connected to either the
Techline Terminal for direct programming or the scan tool for remote programming. Not necessary
for the vehicle to be present.
Refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Techline Information for more detailed instructions.
Parts Information
Part Number Carline Emission
16266904 Malibu, Cutlass USA Nationwide
16266914 Malibu, Cutlass Canadian/Unleaded
Export
16266924 Malibu Leaded Export
Important:
Do not attempt to order the calibrations from GMSPO. The calibrations are programmed into the
vehicle's PCM via a Techline Tool device.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: >
77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable Engine Idle > Page 4451
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513
> Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board
Program Adapter
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 73-65-13
Date: March, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Reprogramming Capability using the Off Board Programming Adapter
Models: 1993-97 Passenger Cars and Trucks (Applicable Reprogrammable Vehicles)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513
> Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4456
The General Motors vehicles contain Electronically Reprogrammable Devices (i.e. PCM, VCM,
ECM). These vehicles cannot be programmed through PROM replacement, however service
programming capability is available through the Tech 1/1A, Tech 2 and Techline terminals via
direct or remote programming.
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has requested that all new vehicle manufacturers
ensure their dealers/retailers are aware that they are responsible for providing customers access to
reprogramming services at a reasonable cost and in a timely manner.
Although programming of controllers has become a common service practice at GM
dealers/retailers, the EPA has received reports from consumers and the aftermarket repair industry
that they were unable to purchase a new (programmed) Electronically Reprogrammable Device
(ERD) over-the-counter. As a result, on August 1, 1995, the Federal Government issued a
regulation requiring all manufacturers to make available reprogramming to the independent
aftermarket by December 1, 1997.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513
> Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4457
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513
> Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4458
Today, the Off Board Programming Adapter (OBPA) is used to reprogram ERD's sold
over-the-counter. For all practical purposes, the OBPA takes the place of the vehicle when the
vehicle is not available.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513
> Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4459
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513
> Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4460
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513
> Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4461
The list of dealerships/retailers currently own the OBPA (see Attachments 1 - 3). These locations
are equipped to provide over-the-counter preprogrammed ERD's. The hardware required to
perform reprogramming in addition to the OBPA is a Techline terminal, Tech 1/1A and associated
cables and adapters. THE TECH 2 SHOULD NOT BE USED WITH THE OBPA AT THIS TIME
BECAUSE OF INADEQUATE OBPA GROUNDING.
The current OBPA can support reprogramming on all late model General Motor's vehicles except:
^ Premium V-8's
^ 1996 Diesel Truck
^ Cadillac Catera
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513
> Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4462
^ All 1997 programmable vehicles (requires use of the Tech 2)
A modification to the OBPA is being offered by Kent-Moore to support these additional vehicles and
to allow reprogramming using the Tech 2. The revisions to the OBPA for the Tech 2 is very
important as the Tech 2 is the only tool used for service programming for 1997 and future vehicles.
To have the modifications performed, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The revisions (part
number J 41207 REV-C) are free of charge for GM dealerships/retailers.
A dealership/retailer can purchase the OBPA by contacting Kent-Moore (part number J 41207-C).
Support on how to use the OBPA is provided by the Techline Customer Support Center (TCSC) at
(800) 828-6860 (English) or (800) 503-3222 (French).
If you need to purchase an OBPA and/or cable, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The OBPA
retails for $695.00 (includes all revisions 1-4) under part number J 41207-C.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 676535
> Nov > 96 > PCM - New Identification Label
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM - New Identification Label
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 67-65-35
Date: November, 1996
INFORMATION
Subject: New PCM Identification Label
Models: Late 1996 and All 1997 Passenger Cars with Powertrain Control Modules (PCM)
PCM Label
Effective March 7, 1996, all 1996-1/2 and 1997 model year passenger cars received a change to
the identification label used on PCM's. Other than its appearance, these changes do not affect the
service replacement procedure of PCM's. The illustration details the changes.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: >
04-06-04-054B > Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory
Usage
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-054B
Date: November 18, 2010
Subject: Info - Non-GM Parts and Accessories (Aftermarket)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years and update to the new U.S. Fixed
Operation Manager (FOM) and Canada Warranty Manager (WM) names. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 04-06-04-054A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
The recent rise and expansion of companies selling non-GM parts and accessories has made it
necessary to issue this reminder to dealers regarding GM's policy on the use and installation of
these aftermarket components.
When a dealer is performing a repair under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty, they are required to
use only genuine GM or GM-approved parts and accessories. This applies to all warranty repairs,
special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM. Parts and accessories advertised as being "the
same" as parts manufactured by GM, but not sold through GM, do not qualify for use in warranty
repairs, special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM.
During a warranty repair, if a GM original equipment part is not available through GM Customer
Care and Aftersales (GM CC&A;), ACDelco(R) distributors, other GM dealers or approved sources,
the dealer is to obtain comparable, non-GM parts and clearly indicate, in detail, on the repair order
the circumstances surrounding why non-GM parts were used. The dealer must give customers
written notice, prior to the sale or service, that such parts or accessories are not marketed or
warranted by General Motors.
It should also be noted that dealers modifying new vehicles and installing equipment, parts and
accessories obtained from sources not authorized by GM are responsible for complying with the
National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. Certain non-approved parts or assemblies, installed
by the dealer or its agent not authorized by GM, may result in a change to the vehicle's design
characteristics and may affect the vehicle's ability to conform to federal law. Dealers must fully
understand that non-GM approved parts may not have been validated, tested or certified for use.
This puts the dealer at risk for potential liability in the event of a part or vehicle failure. If a GM part
failure occurs as the result of the installation or use of a non-GM approved part, the warranty will
not be honored.
A good example of non-authorized modification of vehicles is the result of an ever increasing
supply of aftermarket devices available to the customer, which claim to increase the horsepower
and torque of the Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines. These include the addition of, but are not limited to
one or more of the following modifications:
- Propane injection
- Nitrous oxide injection
- Additional modules (black boxes) that connect to the vehicle wiring systems
- Revised engine calibrations downloaded for the engine control module
- Calibration modules which connect to the vehicle diagnostic connector
- Modification to the engine turbocharger waste gate
Although the installation of these devices, or modification of vehicle components, can increase
engine horsepower and torque, they may also negatively affect the engine emissions, reliability
and/or durability. In addition, other powertrain components, such as transmissions, universal joints,
drive shafts, and front/rear axle components, can be stressed beyond design safety limits by the
installation of these devices.
General Motors does not support or endorse the use of devices or modifications that, when
installed, increase the engine horsepower and torque. It is because of these unknown stresses,
and the potential to alter reliability, durability and emissions performance, that GM has adopted a
policy that prevents any UNAUTHORIZED dealer warranty claim submissions to any remaining
warranty coverage, to the powertrain and driveline components whenever the presence of a
non-GM (aftermarket) calibration is confirmed - even if the non-GM control module calibration is
subsequently removed. Refer to the latest version of Bulletin 09-06-04-026 (V8 Gas Engines) or
06-06-01-007 (Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines) for more information on dealer requirements for
calibration verification.
These same policies apply as they relate to the use of non-GM accessories. Damage or failure
from the use or installation of a non-GM accessory will not be covered under warranty. Failure
resulting from the alteration or modification of the vehicle, including the cutting, welding or
disconnecting of the vehicle's original equipment parts and components will void the warranty.
Additionally, dealers will NOT be reimbursed or compensated by GM in the event of any legal
inquiry at either the local, state or federal level that
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: >
04-06-04-054B > Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage > Page 4472
results from the alteration or modification of a vehicle using non-GM approved parts or accessories.
Dealers should be especially cautious of accessory companies that claim the installation of their
product will not void the factory warranty. Many times these companies have even given direction
on how to quickly disassemble the accessory in an attempt to preclude the manufacturer from
finding out that is has been installed.
Any suspect repairs should be reviewed by the Fixed Operations Manager (FOM), and in Canada
by the Warranty Manager (WM) for appropriate repair direction. If it is decided that a goodwill repair
is to be made on the vehicle, even with the installation of such non-GM approved components, the
customer is to be made aware of General Motors position on this issue and is to sign the
appropriate goodwill documentation required by General Motors.
It is imperative for dealers to understand that by installing such devices, they are jeopardizing not
only the warranty coverage, but also the performance and reliability of the customer's vehicle.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: >
02-08-116-001 > Jan > 02 > PCM - Intermittent Communication or DTC Codes Stored
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM - Intermittent Communication or DTC
Codes Stored
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 02-08-116-001
Date: January, 2002
INFORMATION
Subject: Intermittent Communication or Serial Data DTC Codes Stored in History
Models: 1997-2002 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2002 Oldsmobile Alero 1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass
1999-2002 Pontiac Grand Am with 3.1L or 3.4L Engine (VINs J, M, E - RPOs LG8, L82, LA1)
Ignition Switch Usage
It is possible to set a Serial Data DTC Code with improper usage of the ignition switch. On the
above vehicles, if the ignition key is held between the ACCESSORY and ON position for over 5
seconds, and then rotated to ON and START sequentially, it is possible to set various DTC codes.
The customer may see an illuminated Service Engine Soon, ABS and/or ETS OFF (Electronic
Traction System) telltale. The next time the ignition switch is cycled, any set DTC codes will be
stored in history and any telltales will be turned off.
Important:
If the above condition is encountered and the ETS OFF and ABS lights are illuminated, the ABS
and ETS systems will be deactivated for that key cycle. Normal functioning of these systems will
resume with the next key cycle.
Why Does This Happen?
If the ignition switch is held between the ACCESSORY and ON detent positions, it is possible to
find a spot where the Ignition 1 input will be lost. If this condition remains for over 5 seconds, the
PCM will interpret the loss of that signal as a communication fault and set an appropriate DTC
code.
How to Resolve This Issue
^ Instruct the customer on the proper operation of the ignition switch.
^ Instruct the customer not to "fiddle" with the switch. Actions such as slowly turning the key in
order to see what instrument panel displays light in what order should be discouraged.
^ Do not attempt to hold the switch between detent positions.
^ Assure the customer that no fault exists in the vehicle and that under normal operating
conditions, this concern should not reappear.
^ There are no possible software changes that will prevent the above condition.
^ Do not attempt to replace the ignition switch to remedy this condition.
^ You may clear the history codes to eliminate any later diagnostic confusion. Refer to the Tech 2
Diagnostic Scan Tool Operating Manual for specific instructions on clearing history codes.
Important:
Do not attempt any repairs on the vehicle to remedy this condition.
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 83-81-32 >
Sep > 98 > PCM Connector - Information on New Service Kits
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM Connector - Information on New
Service Kits
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-81-32
Date: September, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: New Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Connector Service Kits
Models: 1996-99 All Passenger Cars except Geo and Catera
Two new kits have been released to service the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connector If the
connector has been damaged during servicing. This PCM has an aluminum body and is usually
mounted underhood.
Kit (P/N 12167308) contains the 80 way connector body, the cover, two each of four different
terminal retainers and 25 empty cavity plugs. No terminals are included.
If terminals are needed, use P/N 12084913 for 0.35 mm and 0.50 mm wire and P/N 12084912 for
0.80 mm wire. These terminals are included in the terminal repair kit J 38125A or B, and
replacements can be ordered from Kent-Moore.
kit (P/N 12167313) contains one connector seal. Whenever the connector is unbolted from the
aluminum body of the PCM, the seal can stick to the body, or may be twisted. This seal should be
replaced whenever the connector is removed in service.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12167308 Kit, PCM Harness Repair
12167313 Seal Kit, PCM Connector
12084912 Terminal
12084913 Terminal
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 >
Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board
Program Adapter
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 73-65-13
Date: March, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Reprogramming Capability using the Off Board Programming Adapter
Models: 1993-97 Passenger Cars and Trucks (Applicable Reprogrammable Vehicles)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 >
Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4485
The General Motors vehicles contain Electronically Reprogrammable Devices (i.e. PCM, VCM,
ECM). These vehicles cannot be programmed through PROM replacement, however service
programming capability is available through the Tech 1/1A, Tech 2 and Techline terminals via
direct or remote programming.
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has requested that all new vehicle manufacturers
ensure their dealers/retailers are aware that they are responsible for providing customers access to
reprogramming services at a reasonable cost and in a timely manner.
Although programming of controllers has become a common service practice at GM
dealers/retailers, the EPA has received reports from consumers and the aftermarket repair industry
that they were unable to purchase a new (programmed) Electronically Reprogrammable Device
(ERD) over-the-counter. As a result, on August 1, 1995, the Federal Government issued a
regulation requiring all manufacturers to make available reprogramming to the independent
aftermarket by December 1, 1997.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 >
Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4486
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 >
Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4487
Today, the Off Board Programming Adapter (OBPA) is used to reprogram ERD's sold
over-the-counter. For all practical purposes, the OBPA takes the place of the vehicle when the
vehicle is not available.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 >
Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4488
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 >
Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4489
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 >
Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4490
The list of dealerships/retailers currently own the OBPA (see Attachments 1 - 3). These locations
are equipped to provide over-the-counter preprogrammed ERD's. The hardware required to
perform reprogramming in addition to the OBPA is a Techline terminal, Tech 1/1A and associated
cables and adapters. THE TECH 2 SHOULD NOT BE USED WITH THE OBPA AT THIS TIME
BECAUSE OF INADEQUATE OBPA GROUNDING.
The current OBPA can support reprogramming on all late model General Motor's vehicles except:
^ Premium V-8's
^ 1996 Diesel Truck
^ Cadillac Catera
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 >
Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4491
^ All 1997 programmable vehicles (requires use of the Tech 2)
A modification to the OBPA is being offered by Kent-Moore to support these additional vehicles and
to allow reprogramming using the Tech 2. The revisions to the OBPA for the Tech 2 is very
important as the Tech 2 is the only tool used for service programming for 1997 and future vehicles.
To have the modifications performed, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The revisions (part
number J 41207 REV-C) are free of charge for GM dealerships/retailers.
A dealership/retailer can purchase the OBPA by contacting Kent-Moore (part number J 41207-C).
Support on how to use the OBPA is provided by the Techline Customer Support Center (TCSC) at
(800) 828-6860 (English) or (800) 503-3222 (French).
If you need to purchase an OBPA and/or cable, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The OBPA
retails for $695.00 (includes all revisions 1-4) under part number J 41207-C.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 676535 >
Nov > 96 > PCM - New Identification Label
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM - New Identification Label
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 67-65-35
Date: November, 1996
INFORMATION
Subject: New PCM Identification Label
Models: Late 1996 and All 1997 Passenger Cars with Powertrain Control Modules (PCM)
PCM Label
Effective March 7, 1996, all 1996-1/2 and 1997 model year passenger cars received a change to
the identification label used on PCM's. Other than its appearance, these changes do not affect the
service replacement procedure of PCM's. The illustration details the changes.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Engine Control Module: Component Locations
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)
RH Front Of Dash
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is located in the RH front of Instrument Panel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 4498
Below LH Side Of I/P, Near Steering Column
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Engine Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4501
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4502
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4503
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4504
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Engine Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Engine Control Module: Connector Views
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Engine Control Module: Service Precautions
CAUTION: In order to prevent possible Electrostatic Discharge damage to the PCM, Do Not touch
the connector pins or the soldered components on the circuit board.
Electronic components used in the control systems are often designed in order to carry very low
voltage. Electronic components are susceptible to damage caused by electrostatic discharge. Less
than 100 volts of static electricity can cause damage to some electronic components. There are
several ways for a person to become statically charged. The most common methods of charging
are by friction and by induction. An example of charging by friction is a person sliding across a car
seat. Charging by induction occurs when a person with well insulated shoes stands near a highly
charged object and momentarily touches ground. Charges of the same polarity are drained off
leaving the person highly charged with the opposite polarity. Static charges can cause damage;
therefore, it is important to use care when handling and testing electronic components.
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Engine Control Module: Application and ID
PCM Label
*****This is a TSB Update-Bulletin No.: 67-65-35, Date: November, 1996*****
INFORMATION
Subject: New PCM Identification Label
Effective March 7, 1996, all 1996-1/2 and 1997 model year passenger cars received a change to
the identification label used on PCM's. Other than its appearance, these changes do not affect the
service replacement procedure of PCM's. The illustration details the changes.
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Engine Control Module: Description and Operation
Figure C1-1 - Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Description
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is located underhood in front of the right strut tower near the
engine coolant reservoir. It is the control center of the fuel injection system and constantly looks at
the information from various sensors and controls the systems that affect vehicle performance. It
controls the following items:
^ Fuel metering system.
^ Transaxle shifting.
^ Ignition timing.
^ On-board diagnostics for Powertrain functions.
It constantly looks at the information from various sensors, and controls the systems that affect
vehicle performance. The PCM also performs the diagnostic function of the system. It can
recognize operational problems, alert the driver through the MIL (Service Engine Soon), and store
diagnostic trouble codes which identify the problem areas to aid the technician in making repairs.
Refer to Introduction in Engine Controls for more information on using the diagnostic function of the
PCM.
For service, the PCM consists of two parts:
^ The controller (the PCM without the Knock Sensor module).
^ the Knock Sensor module.
PCM Function
The PCM supplies either 5 or 12 volts to power various sensors or switches. This is done through
resistances in the PCM which are so high in value that a test light will not light when connected to
the circuit. In some cases, even an ordinary shop voltmeter will not give an accurate reading
because its resistance is too low. Therefore, a digital voltmeter with at least 10 megohms input
impedance is required to ensure accurate voltage readings. Tool J 39200 meets this requirement.
EEPROM
The Electrically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory (EEPROM) is a permanent memory
that is physically soldered within the PCM. The EEPROM contains program and calibration
information that the PCM needs to control powertrain operation. Unlike the PROM used in certain
past applications, the EEPROM is not replaceable. If the PCM is replaced, the new PCM will need
to be programmed Techline equipment (Tech-2) containing the correct program and calibration for
the vehicle is required to program the PCM.
Knock Sensor Module
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The PCM contains a replaceable Knock Sensor (KS) module. The KS module contains the circuitry
that allows the PCM to utilize the KS signal and diagnose the KS sensor and circuitry. If the PCM is
replaced, the KS module needs to be transferred from the original PCM. If the KS module is
missing or faulty causing a continuous knock condition to be indicated, the PCM will set DTC
P0325.
Information Sensors
All of the sensors and input switches can be diagnosed using a scan tool. Following is a short
description of how the sensors and switches can be diagnosed by using a scan tool. The scan tool
can also be used to compare the values for a normal running engine with the engine you are
diagnosing.
Password Learn Procedure
In order for a theft deterrent vehicle to run, a password is communicated between the instrument
Panel Cluster (IPC) and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). If a PCM is replaced, the new PCM
needs to learn the correct password of the vehicle. When the new PCM is installed, the EEPROM
calibration is flashed into the new PCM and the vehicle will learn the new password upon initial
ignition On. If the IPC is replaced, the PCM needs to learn the new password from the IPC. The
Password learn procedure is as follows:
1. Attempt to start vehicle, then leave the ignition On. The Theft System telltale will flash for 10
minutes. 2. When the Theft System telltale stops flashing, start the vehicle. Once the vehicle is
running, the password is learned.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Engine Control Module: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure
The crankshaft position system variation compensating values are stored in the PCM non-volatile
memory after a learn procedure has been performed. If the actual crankshaft position system
variation is not within the crankshaft position system variation compensating values stored in the
PCM, DTC P0300 may set refer to DTC P0300 Engine Misfire Detected. See: Testing and
Inspection
The Crankshaft Position System Variation Learn Procedure should be performed if any of the
following conditions are true:
^ DTC P1336 is set.
^ The PCM has been replaced.
^ The PCM has been reprogrammed.
^ The engine has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft harmonic balancer has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft position sensor has been replaced.
Important: The scan tool crankshaft position system variation learn function will be inhibited if
engine coolant temperature is less than 70°C (156°F). Allow the engine to warm to at least 70°C
(156°F) before attempting the crankshaft position system variation learn procedure.
The scan tool crankshaft position system variation learn function will be inhibited if any powertrain
DTCs other than DTC P1336 are set before or during the crankshaft position system variation learn
procedure. Diagnose and repair any DTCs if set. The crankshaft position system variation learn
function will be inhibited if the PCM detects a malfunction involving the camshaft position signal
circuit, the 3X reference circuit, or the 24X reference circuit.
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the Cam signal, refer to DTC P0341 CMP Sensor Circuit
Performance. See: Testing and Inspection
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the 3X crank signal, refer to DTC P1374 3X Reference
Circuit. See: Testing and Inspection
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the 24X crank signal, refer to DTC P0336 24X Reference
Signal Circuit. See: Testing and Inspection
1. Set the parking brake. 2. Start the engine and allow engine coolant temperature to reach at least
70°C (158°F). 3. Turn OFF the ignition switch. 4. Select the crankshaft position variation learn
procedure from the scan tool special functions list. 5. Follow the instructions displayed on the scan
tool. If the procedure is terminated, refer to Important above for instructions. 6. Observe DTC status
for DTC P1336. 7. If the scan tool indicates that DTC P1336 ran and passed, the crankshaft
position system variation learn procedure is complete. If the scan tool
indicates DTC P1336 failed or not run, check for other DTCs. If no DTCs other than P1336 are set,
repeat the crankshaft position system variation learn procedure as necessary.
PCM Diagnosis
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Component Tests and General Diagnostics > Page 4545
Figure C1-1 - Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Important: The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is programmed into the PCM. Do not exchange
a PCM from another vehicle for testing or replacement. When replacing the PCM, the VIN must
also be programmed into the new PCM.
Because the PCM can have a failure which may affect only one circuit, follow the diagnostic
procedures to determine which circuit has a problem and where it is.
If a diagnostic chart indicates that the PCM connections or PCM is the cause of a problem and the
PCM is replaced, but does not correct the problem, one of the following may be the reason:
There is a problem with the PCM terminal connections, The diagnostic chart will say PCM
connections or PCM. The terminals may have to be removed from the connector in order to check
them properly.
^ EEPROM program is not correct for the application. Incorrect components may cause a
malfunction and may or may not set a DTC.
^ The problem is intermittent. This means that the problem is not present at the time the system is
being checked. In this case, refer to the Symptoms and make a careful physical inspection of all
components and wiring associated with the affected system. See: Testing and Inspection
^ There is a shorted solenoid, relay coil, or harness. Solenoids and relays are turned on and off by
the PCM using internal electronic switches called drivers. Each driver is part of a group of seven
called Output Driver Modules. A shorted solenoid, relay coil, or harness will not damage the PCM
but will cause the solenoid or relay to be inoperative. The J 34636 tester, or equivalent, provides a
fast, accurate means of checking for a shorted coil or a short to battery voltage.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Password Learn Procedure
Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Password Learn Procedure
In order for a theft deterrent vehicle to run, a password is communicated between the Body
Function Control (BFC) and the PCM. If a PCM is replaced, the new PCM needs to learn the
correct password of the vehicle. When the new PCM is installed, the EEPROM calibration is
flashed into the new PCM and the vehicle will learn the new password upon the initial ignition ON
cycle. If the Body Function Control (BFC) is replaced, the PCM needs to learn the new password
from the Body Function Control (BFC). The password learn procedure is as follows:
1. Attempt to the start vehicle. The vehicle will stall. 2. Leave the ignition ON until the Theft System
telltale turns off (approx.10 minutes). 3. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 4. Attempt to the start vehicle.
The vehicle will start on the this attempt. The password is now learned.
Attempting to start the vehicle by bypassing the Passlock II system or substituting parts without
performing the password learn procedure may set a DTC P1630 and P1631.
If no password is received a DTC P1610 and P1626 may be set. Refer to the applicable DTC table
if set. See: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Password Learn Procedure > Page 4548
Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Replacement
PCM Replacement/Programming (Replacement)
Notice: In order to prevent internal damage to the PCM, the ignition must be OFF when
disconnecting or reconnecting the PCM connector.
Note: Service of the PCM should normally consist of either replacement of the PCM, EEPROM
re-programming. If the diagnostic procedures call for the PCM to be replaced, the PCM should be
checked first to see if it is the correct part. DTC P0601 indicates the EEPROM programming has
malfunctioned. When DTC P0601 is obtained, re-program the EEPROM. The ignition should be
OFF for at least 10 seconds before disconnecting power to the PCM so the IAC valve has time to
move to the engine OFF position.
Removal Procedure
Important: To prevent internal PCM damage, the ignition must be off when disconnecting or
reconnecting power to PCM (for example, battery cable, PCM pigtail, PCM fuse, jumper cables,
etc.). The ignition should be OFF for at least 10 seconds before disconnecting power to the PCM
so the IAC valve has time to move to the engine OFF position.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the LH hush panel. 3. Loosen the PCM
connector screws (1).
Notice: In order to prevent possible electrostatic discharge damage to the PCM, do not touch the
connector pins or soldered components on the circuit board. Do not remove the integrated circuit
boards from the carrier.
4. Disconnect the PCM electrical connectors. 5. Remove the PCM Retainer. 6. Slide the PCM from
the PCM bracket.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Password Learn Procedure > Page 4549
Installation Procedure
Remove the new PCM from its packaging and check the service number to make sure it is the
same number or updated number as the faulty PCM.
1. Slide the PCM into the PCM bracket. 2. Install the PCM Retainer.
Notice: In order to prevent possible electrostatic discharge damage to the PCM, do not touch the
connector pins or soldered components on the circuit board. Do not remove the integrated circuit
boards from the carrier.
3. Install the PCM electrical connectors. 4. Tighten the PCM connector screws (1). 5. Install the LH
hush panel. 6. Connect the negative battery cable.
Important: Replacement PCMs must be reprogrammed and the crankshaft position system
variation procedure must be performed. Refer to the latest Techline information for PCM
programming and Crankshaft Position System Variation Procedure. See: Crankshaft Position
Sensor/Testing and Inspection
7. Reprogram the PCM.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Level Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure
Fuel Level Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-83-07
Date: March, 1998
Subject: Fuel Level Sensor Replacement Procedure
Models: 1997-98 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Listed in Application Chart)
INFORMATION
This bulletin is being issued to clarify that, when fuel gauge diagnosis per the Service Manual
indicates the cause to be the fuel level sensor, complete fuel sender assembly replacement is NOT
required.
Available fuel level sensor service packages are indicated in the application charts and should be
installed following applicable Service Manual procedures and those provided in the service
packages.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Level Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 4554
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Level Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 4555
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Level Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 4556
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Level Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 4557
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Level Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 4558
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Level Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 4559
Parts Information
See the charts for listed for applicable part numbers. Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the tables.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Level Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4560
Fuel Level Sensor: Description and Operation
The fuel sensor is attached to the modular fuel sender assembly. As the position of the float varies
with the fuel level, the rheostat produces a variable resistance between the fuel gage and ground.
The fuel gage converts this variable resistance into the fuel level reading display on the instrument
panel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Pump Signal >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Fuel Pump Signal: Description and Operation
FUEL PUMP ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT
When the key is first turned ON, without the engine running, the PCM energizes the fuel pump
relay for a calibrated time (approximately 2 seconds). This builds up fuel pressure quickly.
Whenever the engine is not started within two seconds, the PCM shuts OFF the fuel pump and
waits until ignition reference pulses are present. As soon as the engine is cranked, the PCM
energizes the relay which powers the fuel pump. As a backup system to the fuel pump relay, the
fuel pump also can be energized by the fuel pump and the engine oil pressure indicator switch. The
fuel pump and the engine oil pressure indicator switch is a normally open switch which closes when
the oil pressure reaches about 28 kPa (4 psi). Whenever the fuel pump relay fails, the fuel pump
and engine oil pressure indicator switch powers the fuel pump. An inoperative fuel pump relay can
result in long cranking times. An inoperative fuel pump would cause a no start condition. A fuel
pump which does not provide enough pressure can result in poor performance.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor
> Component Information > Diagrams
Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor
> Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4567
Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation
Fuel Filter
Description
The Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor is mounted on top of the modular fuel sender. The sensor
measures the difference between the fuel vapor pressure (or vacuum) in the fuel tank and the
outside air pressure. A three wire electrical harness connects it to the Powertrain Control Module
(PCM).
Operation
The PCM supplies a 5 volt reference signal and ground to the sensor. The sensor will return a
voltage between 0.1 volts and 4.9 volts back to the PCM depending on the fuel vapor pressure in
the fuel tank. When the fuel pressure in the fuel tank is equal to the outside air pressure, such as
when the fuel cap is removed, the output voltage will be 1.3 volts to 1.7 volts.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor
> Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4568
Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Relieve the system fuel pressure. Refer to Fuel Pressure Release Procedure. 2. Drain fuel tank.
Refer to Draining Fuel Tank. 3. Remove the fuel tank. Refer to Fuel Tank. 4. Remove the electrical
connector from the fuel tank vapor pressure sensor. 5. Remove the fuel tank vapor pressure
sensor from modular fuel sender
Installation Procedure
1. Install the new fuel tank vapor pressure sensor to modular fuel sender. 2. Install the electrical
connector to fuel tank vapor pressure sensor 3. Install the fuel tank. Refer to Fuel Tank. 4. Refill
tank. 5. Install the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator
- Electronic > Component Information > Specifications
Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic: Specifications
Mounting Screw Torque.......................................................................................................................
......................................................... 3 Nm (27 lb in.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator
- Electronic > Component Information > Specifications > Page 4572
Top Left Side Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator
- Electronic > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator
- Electronic > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4575
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator
- Electronic > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4576
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator
- Electronic > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4577
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator
- Electronic > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4578
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator
- Electronic > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4579
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator
- Electronic > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4580
Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator
- Electronic > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4581
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator
- Electronic > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4582
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator
- Electronic > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4583
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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- Electronic > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4598
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator
- Electronic > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4599
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator
- Electronic > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4600
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator
- Electronic > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4601
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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- Electronic > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4602
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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- Electronic > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4604
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator
- Electronic > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4606
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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- Electronic > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4607
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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- Electronic > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4608
Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The purpose of the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve is to control engine idle speed, while preventing
stalls due to changes in engine load.
OPERATION
The IAC valve, mounted in the throttle body, controls bypass air around the throttle plate. By
moving a conical valve, known as a pintle, in (to decrease air flow) or out (to increase air flow), a
controlled amount of air can move around the throttle plate. If RPM is too low, the PCM will retract
the IAC pintle, resulting in more air being bypassed around the throttle plate to increase RPM. If
RPM is too high, the PCM will extend the IAC pintle, allowing less air to be bypassed around the
throttle plate, decreasing RPM.
The IAC pintle moves in small steps called counts. During idle, the proper position of the IAC pintle
is calculated by the PCM based on battery voltage, coolant temperature, engine load, and engine
RPM.
If the RPM drops below a specified value, and the throttle plate is closed TP sensor voltage is
between 0.20 - 0.74), the PCM senses a near stall condition. The PCM will then calculate a new
IAC pintle position to prevent stalls.
If the AC valve is disconnected and reconnected with the engine running, the idle RPM will be
wrong. In this case, the IAC has to be reset.
The IAC resets when the key is cycled ON then OFF.
When servicing the IAC, it should only be disconnected or connected with the ignition OFF in order
to keep from having to reset the IAC.
The position of the IAC pintle affects engine start up and the idle characteristics of the vehicle. If
the IAC pintle is open fully, too much air will be allowed into the manifold. This results in high idle
speed, along with possible hard starting and a lean air/fuel ratio. DTC P0507 may set. If the IAC
pintle is stuck closed, too little air will be allowed in the manifold. This results in a low idle speed,
along with possible hard starting and a rich air/fuel ratio. DTC P0506 may set. If the IAC pintle is
stuck part way open, the idle may be high or low and will not respond to changes in engine load.
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- Electronic > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4609
Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic: Adjustments
Idle Air Control Valve Pintle Retraction (Manually)
Before installing new IAC valve, measure the distance that the valve is extended. Measurement
should be made from motor housing to end of cone. Distance should be no greater than 28 mm (1
1/8 inch). If the cone is extended too far, adjustment is required or damage may occur to the valve
when installed. Adjust IAC by manually compressing or extending the pintle to achieve the correct
length.
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- Electronic > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4610
Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the electrical connector from the idle air control valve. 2. Remove the idle air control
valve (2) attaching screws. 3. Remove the idle air control valve. 4. Remove the idle air control valve
O-ring.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Before installing a new idle air control valve, measure the distance that the valve is extended. The
measurement should be made from the idle air control valve motor housing to end of the idle air
control valve cone. The distance should be no greater than 28 mm (1-1/8 in). If the idle air control
valve cone is extended too far, adjustment is required, otherwise, damage may occur when the idle
air control valve is installed. Adjust the idle air control valve by manually compressing the pintle to
achieve the correct length.
1. Install the new idle air control O-ring 2. Install the idle air control valve in the intake manifold. 3.
Install the idle air control valve (2) attaching screws.
Tighten IAC valve screws to 3.0 Nm (27 lb in).
4. Install the electrical connector to the idle air control valve. 5. The PCM will reset the idle air
control valve whenever the ignition switch is turned ON, then OFF. Turn the ignition switch ON,
then OFF. 6. Start the engine and allow the engine to reach operating temperature.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Ignition Output Signal >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Ignition Output Signal: Description and Operation
3X REFERENCE LOW
The PCM uses this signal, from the ignition control module to calculate engine speed and
crankshaft position over 1280 RPM. The PCM also uses the pulses on this circuit to initiate injector
pulses. If the PCM receives no pulses on this circuit, DTC P1374 will set and the PCM will use the
24X reference signal circuit for fuel and ignition control. This is a ground circuit for the digital RPM
counter inside the PCM, but the wire is connected to engine ground only through the ignition
control module. Although this circuit is electrically connected to the PCM, it is not connected to
ground at the PCM. The PCM compares voltage pulses on the reference input circuits to pulses on
this circuit, ignoring pulses that appear on both. Refer to Electronic Ignition System for further
information.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Information Bus >
Component Information > Locations
Left Side Of I/P
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Component Information > Description and Operation > General Description
Information Bus: Description and Operation General Description
Data Link Connector (DLC)
DESCRIPTION
The provision for communicating with the control module is the Data Link Connector (DLC). It is
usually located under the instrument panel. The DLC is used to connect to a scan tool. Some
common uses of the scan tool are listed below:
- Identifying stored Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs).
- Clearing DTCs
- Performing output control tests.
- Reading serial data.
Class II Serial Data
U.S. Federal regulations require that all automobile manufacturers establish a common
communications system. General Motors utilizes the Class II communications system. Each bit of
information can have one of two lengths: long or short. This allows vehicle wiring to be reduced by
the transmission and reception of multiple signals over a single wire. The messages carried on
Class II data streams are also prioritized. In other words, if two messages attempt to establish
communications on the data line at the same time, only the message with higher priority will
continue. The device with the lower priority message must wait. The most significant result of this
regulation is that the regulation provides scan tool manufacturers with the capability of accessing
data from any make or model vehicle sold in the United States.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Information Bus >
Component Information > Description and Operation > General Description > Page 4619
Information Bus: Description and Operation Circuit Operation
The Data Link Connector (DLC) is provided to enable communications with specific control
modules using an external scan tool. The use of the scan tool in control module diagnostics is
described in the Driveability and Emissions, Supplemental Inflatable Restraints, Antilock Brakes,
and Computer System Diagnosis service manual sections. There are two data lines that can be
accessed with a scan tool. The Serial Data Line-ART (800 circuit) allows the scan tool to
communicate with the Sensing Diagnostic Module.
The Serial Data Line-Class 2 (1807 circuit) allows internal communications between the Body
Function Controller (BFC), Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM), and Powertrain Control
Module (PCM), as well as with the external scan tool.
A module to module communication failure due to wiring problems may also result in
communication failure with the scan tool.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Information Bus >
Component Information > Description and Operation > General Description > Page 4620
Information Bus: Description and Operation Class 2 Data Line
Class 2 data is a high speed data transmission. To control serial data line traffic, Class 2 uses the
peer to peer method along with message arbitration to manage data line traffic. The control
modules on the Class 2 data line are:
^ Body Function Controller (BFC)
^ Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
^ Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
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Component Information > Description and Operation > General Description > Page 4621
Information Bus: Description and Operation Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI)
The Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) is a three wire interface connecting the Body Function
Controller (BFC) to the Instrument Cluster, which allows for them to exchange information. This
interface is a synchronous serial data link where the Body Function Controller (BFC) is the master
and the Instrument Cluster is the slave. Because of the need for modules on the different serial
data links to communicate with each other, the Body Function Controller (BFC) acts as an
interpreter, or master, for data communication between the Class 2 and Serial Peripheral Interface
(SPI) data lines.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Information Bus >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
Information Bus: Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
1. Check scan tool operation on a known good vehicle to make sure tool is operating properly. 2.
Check condition of IPC/HVAC BATT Fuse by visual inspection. 3. Verify that Grounds G102 and
G201 are clean and tight. 4. Check for proper connection of scan tool to the Data Link Connector
(DLC). 5. The following diagnostics assume that a communications failure is initially found during
testing with the scan tool as per the appropriate service
manual sections (Driveability and Emissions, Antilock Brakes, Supplemental Inflatable Restraints,
Computer System Diagnosis).
^ Check for a broken (or partially broken) wire inside the insulation which could cause system
malfunction but prove GOOD in a continuity/voltage check with a system disconnected. These
circuits may be intermittent or resistive when loaded, and if possible, should be checked by
monitoring for a voltage drop with the system operational (under load).
^ Check for proper installation of aftermarket electronic equipment which may affect the integrity of
other systems (refer to General Troubleshooting Procedures). See: Diagrams/Diagnostic Aids
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Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4624
Information Bus: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
Communications With Sensing Diagnostic Module
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Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4625
Unable To Establish Serial Communication With Any Module (Part 1 Of 2)
Unable To Establish Serial Communication With Any Module (Part 2 Of 2)
Cannot Establish Serial Communications
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Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4626
Unable To Establish Serial Communications (Part 1 Of 4)
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Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4627
Unable To Establish Serial Communications (Part 2 Of 4)
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Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4628
Unable To Establish Serial Communications (Part 3 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4629
Unable To Establish Serial Communications (Part 4 Of 4)
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Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4630
Communications With Sensing Diagnostic Module
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Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4631
Unable To Establish Serial Communication With Any Module (Part 1 Of 2)
Unable To Establish Serial Communication With Any Module (Part 2 Of 2)
Unable to Establish Serial Communications
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Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4632
Unable To Establish Serial Communications (Part 1 Of 4)
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Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4633
Unable To Establish Serial Communications (Part 2 Of 4)
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Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4634
Unable To Establish Serial Communications (Part 3 Of 4)
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Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4635
Unable To Establish Serial Communications (Part 4 Of 4)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Information Bus >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4636
Information Bus: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
The Data Link Connector (DLC) is provided to enable communications with specific control
modules using an external scan tool. The use of the scan tool in control module diagnostics is
described in the Driveability and Emissions, Supplemental Inflatable Restraints, Antilock Brakes,
and Computer System Diagnosis service manual sections. There are two data lines that can be
accessed with a scan tool. The Serial Data Line-ART (800 circuit) allows the scan tool to
communicate with the Sensing Diagnostic Module.
The Serial Data Line-Class 2 (1807 circuit) allows internal communications between the Body
Function Controller (BFC), Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM), and Powertrain Control
Module (PCM), as well as with the external scan tool.
A module to module communication failure due to wiring problems may also result in
communication failure with the scan tool.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component
Information > Locations
Front Of Engine
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Knock Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4643
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Knock Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4656
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Knock Sensor
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Knock Sensor: Description and Operation
Description
Varying octane levels in today's gasoline may cause detonation in some engines. Detonation is
caused by an uncontrolled explosion (burn) in the combustion chamber. This uncontrolled
explosion could produce a flame front opposite that of the normal flame front produced by the spark
plug. The rattling sound normally associated with detonation is the result of two or more opposing
pressures (flame fronts) colliding within the combustion chamber. Though light detonation is
sometimes considered normal, heavy detonation could result in engine damage.
To control spark knock, a Knock Sensor (KS) system is used. This system is designed to retard
spark timing to reduce spark knock in the engine. This allows the engine to use maximum spark
advance to improve driveability and fuel economy.
^ KS module.
^ Knock sensor.
Operation
The knock sensor detects abnormal vibration (spark knocking) in the engine. The sensor is
mounted in the engine block near the cylinders. The sensors produce an AC output voltage which
increases with the severity of the knock. This signal voltage is input to the PCM. The PCM then
adjusts the Ignition Control (IC) timing to reduce spark knock.
The knock sensor is used to detect engine detonation, allowing the PCM to retard Ignition Control
(IC) spark timing based on the KS signal being received. The knock sensor produces an AC signal
which rides on a 5 volts DC signal supplied by the PCM. The signal amplitude and frequency is
dependent upon the amount of knock being experienced.
The PCM determines whether knock is occurring by comparing the signal level on the KS circuit
with the voltage level on the noise channel. The noise channel allows the PCM to reject any false
knock signal by indicating the amount of normal engine mechanical noise present. Normal engine
noise varies depending on engine speed and load. If the voltage level on the KS noise channel
circuit is below the range considered normal, DTC P0327 will set, indicating a fault in the KS circuit
or one of the knock sensors. If the PCM determines that an abnormal minimum or maximum noise
level is being experienced, a DTC P0326 will set.
The PCM contains a replaceable Knock Sensor (KS) module. The KS module contains the circuitry
that allows the PCM to utilize the KS signal and diagnose the KS sensors and circuitry. If the KS
module is missing or faulty causing a continuous knock condition to be indicated, the PCM will set
DTC P0325.
The scan tool has four data displays available for diagnosing the KS system. The 4 displays are
described as follows:
^ KS Activity is used to monitor the input signal from the knock sensor. This counter will display
Yes while knock is being detected.
^ Knock Retard is the indication of how much the PCM is retarding the spark. The PCM will retard
spark in response to the Knock signal or the Traction Control system Desired Torque signal.
^ KS Noise Channel indicates the current voltage level being monitored on the noise channel.
DTCs P0325, P0326, and P0327 are designed to diagnose the KS module, the knock sensors, and
related wiring, so problems encountered with the KS system should set a DTC. However, if no DTC
was set but the KS system is suspect because detonation was the customer's complaint, refer to
Detonation/Spark Knock in Symptoms. See: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 4676
Knock Sensor: Testing and Inspection
The PCM contains a replaceable Knock Sensor (KS) module. The KS module contains the circuitry
that allows the PCM to utilize the KS signal and diagnose the KS sensors and circuitry. If the KS
module is missing or faulty causing a continuous knock condition to be indicated, the PCM will set
DTC P0325.
The scan tool has four data displays available for diagnosing the KS system. The 4 displays are
described as follows:
^ KS Activity is used to monitor the input signal from the knock sensor. This counter will display
Yes while knock is being detected.
^ Knock Retard is the indication of how much the PCM is retarding the spark. The PCM will retard
spark in response to the Knock signal or the Traction Control system Desired Torque signal.
^ KS Noise Channel indicates the current voltage level being monitored on the noise channel.
DTCs P0325, P0326, and P0327 are designed to diagnose the KS module, the knock sensors, and
related wiring, so problems encountered with the KS system should set a DTC. However, if no DTC
was set but the KS system is suspect because detonation was the customer's complaint, refer to
Detonation/Spark Knock in Symptoms. See: Testing and Inspection
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 4677
Knock Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise the vehicle. 3. Remove the knock sensor wiring
harness connector from knock sensor. 4. Remove the knock sensor from engine block.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
NOTE: Do Not apply thread sealant to sensor threads. The sensor is coated at factory and applying
additional sealant will affect the sensors ability to detect detonation.
1. Install the knock sensor into engine block. 2. Install the knock sensor wiring harness connector
to the knock sensor. 3. Lower the vehicle. 4. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor Module >
Component Information > Service Precautions
Knock Sensor Module: Service Precautions
CAUTION: In order to prevent possible Electrostatic Discharge damage to the PCM, Do Not touch
the connector pins or the soldered components on the circuit board.
Electronic components used in the control systems are often designed in order to carry very low
voltage. Electronic components are susceptible to damage caused by electrostatic discharge. Less
than 100 volts of static electricity can cause damage to some electronic components. There are
several ways for a person to become statically charged. The most common methods of charging
are by friction and by induction. An example of charging by friction is a person sliding across a car
seat. Charging by induction occurs when a person with well insulated shoes stands near a highly
charged object and momentarily touches ground. Charges of the same polarity are drained off
leaving the person highly charged with the opposite polarity. Static charges can cause damage;
therefore, it is important to use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor Module >
Component Information > Service Precautions > Page 4681
Knock Sensor Module: Description and Operation
Knock Sensor Inside PCM
Description
The PCM contains a replaceable Knock Sensor (KS) module. The KS module contains the circuitry
that allows the PCM to utilize the KS signal and diagnose the KS sensor and circuitry. If the PCM is
replaced, the KS module needs to be transferred from the original PCM. If the KS module is
missing or faulty causing a continuous knock condition to be indicated, the PCM will set DTC
P0325.
The scan tool has four data displays available for diagnosing the KS system. The 4 displays are
described as follows:
^ KS Activity is used to monitor the input signal from the knock sensor. This counter will display
Yes while knock is being detected.
^ Knock Retard is the indication of how much the PCM is retarding the spark. The PCM will retard
spark in response to the Knock signal or the Traction Control system Desired Torque signal.
^ KS Noise Channel indicates the current voltage level being monitored on the noise channel.
DTCs P0325, P0326, and P0327 are designed to diagnose the KS module, the knock sensors, and
related wiring, so problems encountered with the KS system should set a DTC. However, if no DTC
was set but the KS system is suspect because detonation was the customer's complaint, refer to
Detonation/Spark Knock in Symptoms. See: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor Module >
Component Information > Service Precautions > Page 4682
Knock Sensor Module: Testing and Inspection
The PCM contains a replaceable Knock Sensor (KS) module. The KS module contains the circuitry
that allows the PCM to utilize the KS signal and diagnose the KS sensors and circuitry. If the KS
module is missing or faulty causing a continuous knock condition to be indicated, the PCM will set
DTC P0325.
The scan tool has four data displays available for diagnosing the KS system. The 4 displays are
described as follows:
^ KS Activity is used to monitor the input signal from the knock sensor. This counter will display
Yes while knock is being detected.
^ Knock Retard is the indication of how much the PCM is retarding the spark. The PCM will retard
spark in response to the Knock signal or the Traction Control system Desired Torque signal.
^ KS Noise Channel indicates the current voltage level being monitored on the noise channel.
DTCs P0325, P0326, and P0327 are designed to diagnose the KS module, the knock sensors, and
related wiring, so problems encountered with the KS system should set a DTC. However, if no DTC
was set but the KS system is suspect because detonation was the customer's complaint, refer to
Detonation/Spark Knock in Symptoms. See: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor Module >
Component Information > Service Precautions > Page 4683
Knock Sensor Module: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the PCM. Refer to PCM Replacement/Programming. 2. Remove the access cover from
the PCM. 3. Carefully squeeze the latches on the KS Module and carefully remove the KS Module.
Apply pressure in the direction as shown.
Installation Procedure
1. Carefully insert the KS module into the socket. 2. Carefully press down on the KS Module until
the latches catch. 3. Install the PCM access cover. 4. Install the PCM. Refer to PCM
Replacement/Programming.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum
Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4688
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum
Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4689
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum
Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4690
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum
Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4691
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum
Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4692
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum
Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4693
Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum
Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4694
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum
Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4695
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum
Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4696
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum
Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4697
insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum
Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4698
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum
Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4714
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum
Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4715
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum
Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4716
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum
Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4717
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum
Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4718
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum
Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4719
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4720
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum
Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4721
Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Description and Operation
MAP Sensor Service
Description
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor responds to changes in intake manifold pressure
(vacuum). The MAP sensor signal voltage to the PCM varies from below 2 volts at idle (high
vacuum) to above 4 volts with the key ON, engine not running or at wide-open throttle (low
vacuum).
Operation
The MAP sensor is used to determine manifold pressure changes while the linear EGR flow test
diagnostic is being run (refer to DTC P0401 in DTC Tables), to determine engine vacuum level for
other diagnostics and to determine barometric pressure (BARO). See: Testing and Inspection
If the PCM detects a voltage that is lower than the possible range of the MAP sensor, DTC P0107
will be set. A signal voltage higher than the possible range of the sensor will set DTC P0108. An
intermittent low or high voltage will set DTC P1107 or P1106 respectively.
The PCM can also detect a shifted MAP sensor. The PCM compares the MAP sensor signal to a
calculated MAP based on throttle position and various engine load factors. If the PCM detects a
MAP signal that varies excessively above or below the calculated value, DTC P0106 will set.
The PCM updates the MAP sensor reading at each 3X reference pulse. If the 3X reference pulse is
lost the PCM will only update the MAP sensor once per ignition cycle and will retain that value until
the next ignition cycle. Depending on the retained MAP sensor value, the PCM will set the
appropriate high voltage DTC or low voltage DTC.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum
Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4722
Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Service and Repair
MAP Sensor Service
Removal Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. The Fuel Injector harness is attached to the MAP
Sensor bracket. Disconnect the Fuel Injector Harness from the MAP Sensor. 3. Remove the
bolt/screws (2). 4. Remove the electrical connector. 5. Remove the inlet vacuum hose. 6. Remove
the MAP sensor from the bracket.
Installation Procedure
1. Installation the inlet vacuum hose. 2. Connect the electrical connector. 3. Position the MAP
sensor to bracket and drive bolt/screws (2) securely seated and not stripped. 4. Connect the Fuel
Injector harness to the MAP Sensor bracket. 5. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oil Level Sensor For ECM >
Component Information > Specifications
Oil Level Sensor For ECM: Specifications
Engine Oil Level Switch .......................................................................................................................
............................................. 17-27 Nm (13-20 lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oil Level Sensor For ECM >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 4726
Oil Level Sensor For ECM: Description and Operation
Engine Oil Level Sensor
The PCM monitors the Engine Oil Level Sensor signal at start-up to determine if engine oil level is
OK. If the PCM determines that a low oil level condition exists, the PCM will illuminate the Low Oil
Level indicator lamp.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oil Level Sensor For ECM >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 4727
Oil Level Sensor For ECM: Service and Repair
Engine Oil Level Sensor
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. 2. Drain the engine oil. 3. Disconnect the electrical connector from Engine Oil
Level Switch 4. Remove the Engine Oil Level Switch from the oil pan.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the Engine Oil Level Switch.
Tighten Switch to 17-27 Nm (13-20 lb. ft.).
2. Lower the vehicle. 3. Add the engine oil to the correct level.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oil Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Locations
Front Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oil Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Page 4731
Engine Oil Pressure Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Oxygen Sensor - Locations in Various Exhaust Systems
Oxygen Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Oxygen Sensor - Locations in Various Exhaust
Systems
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 67-65-40
Date: March, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Pictorial of Oxygen Sensor Designations in Various Exhaust Systems Configurations
Models: 1996-97 Passenger Cars, Geos and Trucks
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Oxygen Sensor - Locations in Various Exhaust Systems > Page
4736
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Oxygen Sensor - Locations in Various Exhaust Systems > Page
4737
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Oxygen Sensor - Locations in Various Exhaust Systems > Page
4738
Pictorials of the designation of oxygen sensors in General Motors vehicles.
There has been some confusion relative to OBD II oxygen sensor designation. The intent of this
bulletin is to eliminate misdiagnosis of those oxygen sensors due to misidentification. When using
Section 6E of the Service Manual, this chart can help locate the appropriate bank and sensor for
the diagnostic.
For "V" engines; BANK 1 is always on the side of the engine with the number 1 cylinder (odd
cylinders), and BANK 2 is always on the side of the engine where the number 2 cylinder (even
cylinders) is located.
Just a reminder, the OBD II P-codes, technician observations and customer comments are all to be
recorded on the repair order in accordance with article 1.6.2G of the GM Service Policies and
Procedures Manual.
Use the approved labor operation for the sensors replaced. J 6372 is used for engine out sensors.
Labor Operation J 6380 is for the pre-sensor (the sensor just in front of the catalytic converter) and
the post sensor (the sensor behind the catalytic converter).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4739
Oxygen Sensor: Specifications
Heated Oxygen Sensor .......................................................................................................................
............................................... 42 +/- 4 Nm (31 lb. ft.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Technical Service Bulletin Update
Oxygen Sensor: Locations Technical Service Bulletin Update
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 67-65-40
Date: March, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Pictorial of Oxygen Sensor Designations in Various Exhaust Systems Configurations
Models: 1996-97 Passenger Cars, Geos and Trucks
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Technical Service Bulletin Update > Page 4742
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Technical Service Bulletin Update > Page 4743
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Technical Service Bulletin Update > Page 4744
Pictorials of the designation of oxygen sensors in General Motors vehicles.
There has been some confusion relative to OBD II oxygen sensor designation. The intent of this
bulletin is to eliminate misdiagnosis of those oxygen sensors due to mis-identification. When using
Section 6E of the Service Manual, this chart can help locate the appropriate bank and sensor for
the diagnostic.
For "V" engines; BANK 1 is always on the side of the engine with the number 1 cylinder (odd
cylinders), and BANK 2 is always on the side of the engine where the number 2 cylinder (even
cylinders) is located.
Just a reminder, the OBD II P-codes, technician observations and customer comments are all to be
recorded on the repair order in accordance with article 1.6.2G of the GM Service Policies and
Procedures Manual.
Use the approved labor operation for the sensors replaced. J 6372 is used for engine out sensors.
Labor Operation J 6380 is for the pre-sensor (the sensor just in front of the catalytic converter) and
the post sensor (the sensor behind the catalytic converter).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Technical Service Bulletin Update > Page 4745
Center Of Passenger Compartment, Under Vehicle
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Technical Service Bulletin Update > Page 4746
Top Rear Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Oxygen Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4749
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4750
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4751
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4752
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4753
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4754
Oxygen Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4755
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4756
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4771
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4772
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4773
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4774
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4775
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4776
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4777
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4778
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4779
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4780
Oxygen Sensor: Connector Views
Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 2)
Pre Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 1)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4781
Oxygen Sensor: Electrical Diagrams
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Fuel Control Oxygen Sensors
Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Fuel Control Oxygen Sensors
Description
The Precatalyst Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 1) is mounted in the exhaust manifold where it can
monitor the oxygen content of the exhaust gas stream. The oxygen present in the exhaust gas
reacts with the sensor to produce a voltage output. This voltage should constantly fluctuate from
approximately 100mV (high oxygen content - lean mixture) to 900mV (low oxygen content - rich
mixture). The heated oxygen sensor voltage can be monitored with a scan tool. By monitoring the
voltage output of the oxygen sensor, the PCM calculates what fuel mixture command to give to the
injectors (lean mixture-low HO2S voltage = rich command, rich mixture-high HO2S voltage = lean
command).
Operation
The HO2S 1 circuit, if open, should set a DTC P0134 and the scan tool will display a constant
voltage between 400 - 500mV. A constant voltage below 300mV in the sensor circuit (circuit
grounded) should set DTC P0131, while a constant voltage above 800mV in the circuit should set
DTC P0132. A fault in the HO2S 1 heater circuit should cause DTC P0135 to set. The PCM can
also detect HO2S response problems. If the response time of an HO2S is determined to be too
slow, the PCM will store a DTC that indicates degraded HO2S performance.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Fuel Control Oxygen Sensors > Page 4784
Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Heated Oxygen Sensor 2 (HO2S 2) Catalyst Monitor
Function
The catalyst monitor sensors operate the same as the fuel control sensors. Although the HO2S 2
sensors' main function is catalyst monitoring, it also plays a limited role in fuel control. If the sensor
output indicates a voltage either above or below the 450 millivolt bias voltage for an extended
period of time, the PCM will make a slight adjustment to fuel trim to ensure that fuel delivery is
correct for catalyst monitoring.
A problem with the HO2S 2 signal circuit should set DTC P0137, P0138 or P0140, depending on
the specific condition. A fault in the heated oxygen sensor heater element or its ignition feed or
ground will result in slower oxygen sensor response. This may cause erroneous Catalyst monitor
diagnostic results. A fault in the HO2S 2 heater circuit should cause DTC P0141 to set.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 4785
Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
Caution: The heated oxygen sensor may be difficult to remove when engine temperature is below
48°C (120°F). Excessive force may damage threads in exhaust manifold or exhaust pipe.
1. If HO2S 2 is being replaced, raise the vehicle. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector.
Important: A special anti-seize compound is used on the heated oxygen sensor threads The
compound consists of graphite suspended in fluid and glass beads. The graphite will burn away,
but the glass beads will remain, making the sensor easier to remove. New or service sensors will
already have the compound applied to the threads. If a sensor is removed from an engine and if for
any reason is to be reinstalled, the threads must have anti-seize compound applied before
reinstallation.
3. Carefully back out the heated oxygen sensor.
Installation Procedure
1. Coat the threads of heated oxygen sensor/catalyst monitor with anti-seize compound PIN
5613695, or equivalent if necessary. 2. Install the Heated Oxygen Sensor.
Tighten ^
Tighten the HO2S 1 (Pre-catalytic converter) to 42 +/- 4 N.m (31 lb ft).
^ Tighten the HO2S 2 (Post-catalytic converter) to 42 +/- 4 N.m (31 lb ft).
3. Connect the electrical connector.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine
Controls - Service Manual Supplement Announcement
Body Control Module: Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Service Manual Supplement
Announcement
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 99-06-04-010
Date: March, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: 1997 Service Manual Supplement
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
The 1997 GMP/97-LN-2 service information has been revised to incorporate the changes
associated with the Body Function Controller (BFC). Please refer to the 1997 Service Manual
supplement (part number GMP/97-LN-UPD) for the revised service information. This supplement
provides revised diagnostic procedures and service information for the following items:
^ DTC P0630 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit
^ DTC P1601 Serial Communication Malfunction
^ DTC P1602 Class II Failure with EBCM
^ DTC P1610 Class II Failure with BFC
^ DTC P1626 No Password
^ DTC P1530 Theft Deterrent PCM in Learn Mode
^ DTC P1631 Theft Deterrent Password Incorrect
^ DTC P1632 Theft Deterrent System Fuel Disabled
^ A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit
^ A/C Compressor Clutch Control
^ Electric Cooling Fan
^ Electric Cooling Fan (Table 1)
^ Electric Cooling Fan (Table 2)
^ Electric Cooling Fan (Table 3)
^ Engine Oil Pressure Switch
^ PCM Controlled Air Conditioning
^ Electric Cooling Fan General Description
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4791
Below RH Side Of I/P
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions
Body Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Instructions > Page 4795
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Instructions > Page 4796
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Instructions > Page 4797
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Instructions > Page 4799
Body Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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Instructions > Page 4818
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Instructions > Page 4819
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Instructions > Page 4822
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Instructions > Page 4823
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Instructions > Page 4825
Body Control Module: Connector Views
Body Function Controller (BFC): C1
Body Function Controller (BFC): C2
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Instructions > Page 4826
Body Function Controller (BFC): C2 (Part 1 Of 2)
Body Function Controller (BFC): C2 (Part 2 Of 2)
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Instructions > Page 4827
Body Function Controller (BFC): C3
Body Function Controller (BFC): C3 (Part 1 Of 2)
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Instructions > Page 4828
Body Function Controller (BFC): C3 (Part 2 Of 2)
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Instructions > Page 4829
Body Control Module: Electrical Diagrams
Body Function Controller (Part 1 Of 4)
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Instructions > Page 4830
Body Function Controller (Part 2 Of 4)
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Instructions > Page 4831
Body Function Controller (Part 3 Of 4)
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Instructions > Page 4832
Body Function Controller (Part 4 Of 4)
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Safety Information
Body Control Module: Technician Safety Information
CAUTION:
^ This vehicle is equipped with Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR). Refer to Service
Precautions / Air Bags (Supplemental Restraint Systems) before performing service on or around
SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment,
personal injury, or otherwise unneeded SIR system repairs.
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Safety Information > Page 4835
Body Control Module: Vehicle Damage Warnings
Overloading Circuits
The computer system is designed to withstand normal current draws associated with vehicle
operation, however, care must be taken to avoid overloading any of these circuits. In testing for
opens or shorts, do not ground or apply voltage to any of the circuits unless instructed to do so by
the diagnostic procedures. These circuits may only be tested using the High Impedance Multimeter
(J 39200 or equivalent) if they remain connected to one of the computers. Never remove or apply
voltage to one of the computers with the Ignition Switch in the RUN position. Before removing or
connecting battery cables, fuses or connectors always turn the Ignition Switch to the OFF position.
Fastener Requirements
NOTE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for the application. General Motors will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. General Motors will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and the joint clamping
force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening
sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and
systems.
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Control System Operation
Body Control Module: Description and Operation Body Control System Operation
Bulb Check General Description
The bulb check function resides in the Body Function Controller (BFC). Every time the Ignition
Switch transitions from ACC to RUN, an Instrument Cluster bulb check will occur for a calibrated
amount of time for specified indicators. Bulb check will override the OFF state of the affected
indicators. The Body Function Controller (BFC) will determine which indicators to bulb check by
looking at an EEPROM table. Every Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) indicator has a bit in the
EEPROM table. The gauges will WOW during a bulb check. A WOW is when all of the gauge
indicators are moved at the same time and all indicators are lit. If there is an indicator lit before the
WOW, the indicator shall remain lit after this function has concluded.
Compressor Controls
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and Body Function Controller (BFC) share hardware and
software for control of the AC Compressor Clutch. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and the
Body Function Controller (BFC) communicate this information over the serial data Class 2 line.
The Body Function Controller (BFC) performs the following software functions:
^ Limit Low Speed Compressor Operation
^ Prevent Clutch Slippage
^ High Coolant Temperature
^ Monitor for Overpressure
^ Determine Low Ambient Pressure
^ Control Compressor Clutch
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) performs the following functions:
^ Prevent Compressor Overspeed
^ Limit Compressor Speed (in PARK or NEUTRAL)
^ Drive Compressor Clutch
^ Perform Anti-Slug (Slugging is when a mass of liquid enters the AC Compressor Pump)
Interior Lighting Control
The Body Function Controller (BFC) provides the following interior lamp control:
^ Courtesy lamps.
^ Illuminated Entry control of Courtesy Lamps.
Courtesy Lamps are enabled by the following methods:
^ By discrete input to the Body Function Controller (BFC) from the door ajar switches.
^ If any of the doors are open and the vehicle speed is less than 13 km/h (8 mp/h).
^ If the Ignition Switch has been turned OFF for less than two minutes and then the doors are
closed, the lights will stay on for 4 seconds (or until the Ignition Switch is turned to the RUN
position).
^ If the Ignition Switch has been turned OFF for more than two minutes and then the doors are
closed, the lights will stay on for 40 seconds (or until the Ignition Switch is turned to the RUN
position).
^ If the Ignition Switch has been turned OFF for less than two minutes and the Ignition Key is
removed or the doors are opened, the lights will turn on for 15 seconds (or until the Ignition Key is
re-inserted or a door open switch is cycled).
^ Remote Control Door Lock Transmitter activation of the Driver Door Unlock or the Trunk Release
(function of Illuminated entry).
When the interior lights are to be turned off because a customer is leaving the vehicle (the Ignition
Switch is turned OFF for more than two minutes), they are first step dimmed, and then theater
dimmed to the OFF state. If the Ignition Switch is turned OFF for less than two minutes the interior
lights are theater dimmed to the OFF state in four seconds. If the customer sits in the vehicle and
the interior lights have turned OFF and the customer removes the Ignition Key the interior lights will
illuminate for 15 seconds.
Volts Indicator
The Volts indicator (red) will be illuminated under the following conditions:
^ Lamp Terminal pulled low: Key On (Bulb check)
- Open Field or Regulator Circuit
- Output voltage above overvoltage set point (no control)
- Low system voltage above Engine RPM calibrated value (Undervoltage)
- Open P terminal at the Voltage Regulator, shorted positive or negative bridge diode at P terminal
Field terminal voltage
- Condition indicate a voltage regulator disconnect (Low Duty Cycle)
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will determine Engine RPM, Generator Field Duty Cycle,
Lamp Terminal State, L term disabled and send these as Class 2 messages to the Body Function
Controller (BFC). The Body Function Controller (BFC) will then dictate to the Instrument Cluster the
state of the Volts indicator and set the appropriate fault codes.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Description and Operation > Body
Control System Operation > Page 4838
There are four fault codes possible that will illuminate the volts indicator.
The Lamp Terminal Open/Short fault and the Field Terminal Short fault and their respective codes
can only be set and cleared with Ignition 1 active and zero engine RPM. Since the volts indicator is
illuminated with Ignition 1 active and zero engine RPM the faults that can occur under these
conditions cannot be communicated to the driver. Therefore, if either of these codes are set when
the engine is started the indicator will remain illuminated to indicate the fault. The Lamp Terminal
Open/Short program checks for a high lamp state while the Engine in not running. The Field
Terminal Short program checks for a duty cycle higher than a calibrated value while the engine is
not running. Both of these faults have a calibratable timer before setting.
The Field terminal fault and the Lamp terminal fault and their respective codes can only be set and
cleared with the engine running. The Body Function Controller (BFC) will diagnose a possible
voltage regulator disconnect (Field terminal fault) by monitoring the duty cycle and verifying it does
not fall below the calibrated value for a calibrated time. The Lamp terminal fault is set if the Lamp
terminal goes low for a calibrated time.
The volts algorithm tracks whether or not the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) has disabled the
Generator on a cold start or in a stall condition and will not set any field or lamp faults. The
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will not disable the generator for more than 10 seconds.
In the event of a Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or a Body Function Controller (BFC) Class 2 or
Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial data loss the Volts indicator will remain in its last state prior
to the loss of serial data.
Wake-Up/Asleep States
Wake-ups are signals that will turn the Body Function Controller (BFC) ON and cause it to begin
active control and/or monitoring. The Body Function Controller (BFC) is asleep when it has stopped
control or monitoring and has become idle again. The Body Function Controller (BFC) Wake-ups
are as follows:
^ Door Ajar Switches
^ Ignition Switch actuation
^ Inadvertent Power
^ Battery Guard
^ Remote Control Door Lock Receiver Driver Door Unlock actuation Trunk Release
The Body Function Controller will go to sleep and go into Battery Rundown Protection mode are as
follows:
^ Less than 24 km (15 miles), 3 minutes
^ Greater than 24 km (15 miles), 20 minutes
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Description and Operation > Body
Control System Operation > Page 4839
Body Control Module: Description and Operation General Description
The Body Function Controller (BFC) performs the following functions:
^ A/C Compressor request
^ A/C Cooling Fan
^ Exterior and interior lighting control Daytime Running Lights (DRL)
- Automatic Lighting Control
- Fog Lamps
- Interior Lighting
^ Battery Rundown Protection
^ Chime
^ Gauge Control
^ Instrument Cluster Indicator Control
^ Theft Deterrent
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial
Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
Body Control Module: Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
Basic Knowledge Required
Before performing diagnosis there are some areas that you must be familiar with. Without this basic
knowledge, you will have difficulty using diagnostic procedures.
1. Basic Electrical Circuits - The basic theory of electricity is essential. An understanding of voltage,
current, resistance and their relationships to
each other will help in the diagnosis of an open or shorted circuit. You must be able to read and
understand a schematic wiring diagram.
2. Use of Circuit Testing Tools - You must know how to use jumper wires to bypass components to
test circuits. You must be familiar with the High
Impedance Multimeter (DMM - Digital Multi Meter), particularly essential tool J 39200 or equivalent.
You must be able to measure voltage, resistance, and current with the DMM you are using.
3. Use of the scan tool - You must know how to use, connect, manipulate and diagnose circuits
using this essential tool. You must be familiar with
screens and control module partitions.
Body Function Controller System Check
Diagnostic Trouble Codes Warning
IMPORTANT
Do NOT replace the Body Function Controller (BFC) unless a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)
remains Current after all DTC tables have been executed. NEVER replace the Body Function
Controller (BFC) based on History codes.
The Body Function Controller (BFC) and the Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) are
connected to the Class 2 serial data link and are capable of setting Diagnostic Trouble Codes. The
history DTC codes (a history DTC is a current DTC fault that disappears in the next ignition cycle)
can be especially useful in diagnosing an intermittent problem. An explanation of these are given
below in Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) TABLE #13.
On Vehicle Diagnostic Capabilities
Aboard this vehicle are electronic components which can be controlled by the service technician to
provide valuable self-diagnostic information. These components are part of an electrical network
designed to control various engine and body subsystems.
System sensors and switches are monitored by the computer system. These components are
^ Body Function Controller (BFC)
^ Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
^ Instrument Cluster
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial
Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4842
^ Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
^ Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM) - Supplemental Inflatable Restraint System (CKT 800
UART)
A combination of inputs from these components, other sensors and switches go to the computers
either as discrete/analog inputs, communicated on the communications link (called the Data Line
(circuit 1807 Class 2, or circuit 800 UART) and Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) [circuit 1321, circuit
1322 and circuit 1323]) to other computers.
Visual Inspection
One of the most important checks, which must be done before any diagnostic activity, is a careful
visual inspection of suspect wiring and components. This can often lead to fixing a malfunction
without further steps. Inspect the battery hydrometer (green eye) to assure the Battery is not
discharged. Inspect all vacuum and electrical circuits for pinches, cuts or disconnects. This visual
inspection is very important. It must be done carefully and thoroughly.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial
Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4843
Body Control Module: Reading and Clearing Diagnostic Trouble Codes
With Scan Tool
The procedure for reading diagnostic trouble code(s) is to use a diagnostic scan tool. Read
Diagnostic Trouble Codes Using a Tech 1, Tech 2 or Other Scan Tool.
When reading DTC(s), follow instructions supplied by tool manufacturer.
Without Scan Tool
A scan tool must be used to retrieve DTCs from the PCM memory. DTCs can no longer be
retrieved by grounding terminals "A" to "B" at the Data Link Connector (DLC). This also eliminates
the PCM function of flashing Code 12. The use of a Tech 1 scan tool or equivalent will be needed
to obtain both current and history DTCs.
Failure to follow this step could result in unnecessary repairs.
With Scan Tool
NOTE: Only clear DTC's when instructed to do so. All of the diagnostic data that was saved along
with the DTC will also be erased when the code is cleared. To clear Diagnostic Trouble Codes
(DTCs), use the diagnostic scan tool, "clear DTCs" or "clear info" function.
When clearing DTCs follow instructions supplied by the tool manufacturer.
To Clear DTCs From Memory:
^ Use a scan tool (recommended) Or
^ Ignition OFF for at least 10 seconds,
^ Disconnect the negative battery cable for 30 seconds (clears status flags).
Notice: Clearing the PCM DTC memory by disconnecting the battery will clear all PCM memories.
Since some operations (particularly IAC valve idle control) are learned, it may be necessary to
partially depress the accelerator pedal when re-starting the engine after PCM memory is cleared. It
may also be necessary to release the accelerator pedal very slowly when first returning to idle, to
prevent a stall. This will allow the PCM to re-learn IAC valve position. Learned operations may be
restored by normal driving.
Without Scan Tool
NOTE: Only clear DTC's when instructed to do so. All of the diagnostic data that was saved along
with the DTC will also be erased when the code is cleared.
A scan tool should be used to clear diagnostic trouble codes. When a scan tool is not available,
DTCs can also be cleared by disconnecting one of the following sources for at least thirty (30)
seconds:
NOTE: When codes are cleared in the following manner, a short period of poor driveablity could
result while the processor goes through a relearning process.
Caution: To prevent system damage, the ignition key must be "OFF" when disconnecting or
reconnecting battery power.
^ The power source to the control module. Examples: fuse, pigtail at battery PCM connectors etc.
^ The negative battery cable. (Disconnecting the negative battery cable may result in the loss of
other on-board memory data, such as preset radio tuning).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial
Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4844
Body Control Module: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Bulb Check General Description
The bulb check function resides in the Body Function Controller (BFC). Every time the Ignition
Switch transitions from ACC to RUN, an Instrument Cluster bulb check will occur for a calibrated
amount of time for specified indicators. Bulb check will override the OFF state of the affected
indicators. The Body Function Controller (BFC) will determine which indicators to bulb check by
looking at an EEPROM table. Every Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) indicator has a bit in the
EEPROM table. The gauges will WOW during a bulb check. A WOW is when all of the gauge
indicators are moved at the same time and all indicators are lit. If there is an indicator lit before the
WOW, the indicator shall remain lit after this function has concluded.
Compressor Controls
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and Body Function Controller (BFC) share hardware and
software for control of the AC Compressor Clutch. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and the
Body Function Controller (BFC) communicate this information over the serial data Class 2 line.
The Body Function Controller (BFC) performs the following software functions:
^ Limit Low Speed Compressor Operation
^ Prevent Clutch Slippage
^ High Coolant Temperature
^ Monitor for Overpressure
^ Determine Low Ambient Pressure
^ Control Compressor Clutch
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) performs the following functions:
^ Prevent Compressor Overspeed
^ Limit Compressor Speed (in PARK or NEUTRAL)
^ Drive Compressor Clutch
^ Perform Anti-Slug (Slugging is when a mass of liquid enters the AC Compressor Pump)
Interior Lighting Control
The Body Function Controller (BFC) provides the following interior lamp control:
^ Courtesy lamps.
^ Illuminated Entry control of Courtesy Lamps.
Courtesy Lamps are enabled by the following methods:
^ By discrete input to the Body Function Controller (BFC) from the door ajar switches.
^ If any of the doors are open and the vehicle speed is less than 13 km/h (8 mp/h).
^ If the Ignition Switch has been turned OFF for less than two minutes and then the doors are
closed, the lights will stay on for 4 seconds (or until the Ignition Switch is turned to the RUN
position).
^ If the Ignition Switch has been turned OFF for more than two minutes and then the doors are
closed, the lights will stay on for 40 seconds (or until the Ignition Switch is turned to the RUN
position).
^ If the Ignition Switch has been turned OFF for less than two minutes and the Ignition Key is
removed or the doors are opened, the lights will turn on for 15 seconds (or until the Ignition Key is
re-inserted or a door open switch is cycled).
^ Remote Control Door Lock Transmitter activation of the Driver Door Unlock or the Trunk Release
(function of Illuminated entry).
When the interior lights are to be turned off because a customer is leaving the vehicle (the Ignition
Switch is turned OFF for more than two minutes), they are first step dimmed, and then theater
dimmed to the OFF state. If the Ignition Switch is turned OFF for less than two minutes the interior
lights are theater dimmed to the OFF state in four seconds. If the customer sits in the vehicle and
the interior lights have turned OFF and the customer removes the Ignition Key the interior lights will
illuminate for 15 seconds.
Volts Indicator
The Volts indicator (red) will be illuminated under the following conditions:
^ Lamp Terminal pulled low: Key On (Bulb check)
- Open Field or Regulator Circuit
- Output voltage above overvoltage set point (no control)
- Low system voltage above Engine RPM calibrated value (Undervoltage)
- Open P terminal at the Voltage Regulator, shorted positive or negative bridge diode at P terminal
Field terminal voltage
- Condition indicate a voltage regulator disconnect (Low Duty Cycle)
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will determine Engine RPM, Generator Field Duty Cycle,
Lamp Terminal State, L term disabled and send these as Class 2 messages to the Body Function
Controller (BFC). The Body Function Controller (BFC) will then dictate to the Instrument Cluster the
state of the Volts indicator and set the appropriate fault codes.
There are four fault codes possible that will illuminate the volts indicator.
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Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4845
The Lamp Terminal Open/Short fault and the Field Terminal Short fault and their respective codes
can only be set and cleared with Ignition 1 active and zero engine RPM. Since the volts indicator is
illuminated with Ignition 1 active and zero engine RPM the faults that can occur under these
conditions cannot be communicated to the driver. Therefore, if either of these codes are set when
the engine is started the indicator will remain illuminated to indicate the fault. The Lamp Terminal
Open/Short program checks for a high lamp state while the Engine in not running. The Field
Terminal Short program checks for a duty cycle higher than a calibrated value while the engine is
not running. Both of these faults have a calibratable timer before setting.
The Field terminal fault and the Lamp terminal fault and their respective codes can only be set and
cleared with the engine running. The Body Function Controller (BFC) will diagnose a possible
voltage regulator disconnect (Field terminal fault) by monitoring the duty cycle and verifying it does
not fall below the calibrated value for a calibrated time. The Lamp terminal fault is set if the Lamp
terminal goes low for a calibrated time.
The volts algorithm tracks whether or not the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) has disabled the
Generator on a cold start or in a stall condition and will not set any field or lamp faults. The
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will not disable the generator for more than 10 seconds.
In the event of a Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or a Body Function Controller (BFC) Class 2 or
Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial data loss the Volts indicator will remain in its last state prior
to the loss of serial data.
Wake-Up/Asleep States
Wake-ups are signals that will turn the Body Function Controller (BFC) ON and cause it to begin
active control and/or monitoring. The Body Function Controller (BFC) is asleep when it has stopped
control or monitoring and has become idle again. The Body Function Controller (BFC) Wake-ups
are as follows:
^ Door Ajar Switches
^ Ignition Switch actuation
^ Inadvertent Power
^ Battery Guard
^ Remote Control Door Lock Receiver Driver Door Unlock actuation Trunk Release
The Body Function Controller will go to sleep and go into Battery Rundown Protection mode are as
follows:
^ Less than 24 km (15 miles), 3 minutes
^ Greater than 24 km (15 miles), 20 minutes
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4846
Body Control Module: Scan Tool Testing and Procedures
System Tests
System Tests, using the Scan Tool, allow for the display of values as actually seen or commanded
by the various computers (i.e. PCM, IC, SDM, EBCM, or BFC). The Test Types available are
dependent upon the System selected, but may include the following:
^ Data (Analog Inputs) - displays analog values as seen by the system.
^ Inputs and Outputs (Digital Inputs) - displays digital values as seen by the system and provides
an indication of whether the input or output has cycled.
^ Special Functions (Output Controls) - allows for outputs of the system to be set at a desired value
(ON or OFF).
^ Clear Codes - will erase all DTCs stored for the system currently selected (Note: If the
malfunction is still present, the DTC may immediately reset).
Body Main Menu
The scan tool software is broken into major computer controller groups that are found in the body
of the vehicle.
The Body Function Controller (BFC), in addition to being an element of the Class 2 serial data link,
also has hardwired inputs as do the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Electronic Brake Control
Module (EBCM), the Instrument Cluster, and the Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM).
Some of these inputs are used to display information for the Instrument Cluster gauges and
indicators while other inputs are converted into serial data link and transmitted on the Class 2 serial
data link and the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial data link.
The Body Function Controller (BFC) is the only interface to the Instrument Cluster, the Body
Function Controller (BFC) converts Class 2 data to Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) for the
Instrument Cluster. The choice of inputs that can be read are listed in TABLE #1.
TABLE #1 - BODY MAIN MENU
Function Supplemental Inflatable Restraint Body Function Controller
Entertainment and Comfort Bus
Features Menu
Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool can navigate through various modes of information
gathering modes; Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC), Data Display, Snapshot, and Special
Functions. The Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) menu allow the technician to view the error codes
set by the Body Function Controller (BFC). The Data Display menu allows the technician to view
what the current state the various Body Function Controllers inputs and outputs. The Snapshot
menu function allows the technician to view and store the inputs as an aid in diagnosis of
multi-system faults. The Special Functions menu allows the technician to actuate the Body
Function Controller's outputs. The choice of inputs that can be read are listed in TABLE #2.
Diagnostic Trouble Code Menu
In this mode the technician is allowed to view and clear current and history Diagnostic Trouble
Codes (DTC).
Data Display Menu
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Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4847
Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool allows the technician to command the Body Function
Controller (BFC) to display its various inputs, outputs, and Instrument Cluster information for ease
in diagnosis. This mode can be used to determine whether the Body Function Controller (BFC) is
receiving data correctly from the Body Function Controller (BFC) inputs, the Instrument Cluster or
the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and if the computer systems are operating properly. The
choice of inputs that can be read are listed in TABLE #3.
Module Information Menu
Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool can command the Body Function Controller (BFC) to read
from the instrument Cluster pertinent information about the Instrument Cluster (Part Number,
Calibration ID and the year of construction), the information that can be read is listed in TABLE #4.
PCM to BFC A/C Clutch Data
Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool can command the Body Function Controller (BFC) to read
its various data inputs from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). This mode can be used to
determine whether the Body Function Controller (BFC) is receiving data correctly from the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and if the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is allowing the A/C
Compressor to function. The inputs that can be read are listed in TABLE #5
Security Data
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial
Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4848
Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool reads the Vehicle Theft Deterrent data in the Body Function
Controller (BFC). The outputs that can be viewed are listed in TABLE #9.
Data
Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool can command the Body Function Controller (BFC) to read
its various analog data inputs. This mode can be used to determine whether the Body Function
Controller (BFC) is receiving analog data correctly or if a component is operating properly. The
inputs that can be read are listed on TABLE #6.
Inputs
Description
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial
Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4849
In this mode of operation, the scan tool can command the Body Function Controller (BFC) to read
its various inputs. This mode can be used to determine whether the Body Function Controller
(BFC) is receiving data correctly or if a component is operating properly. The inputs that can be
read are listed on TABLE #7.
Outputs
Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool can command the Body Function Controller (BFC) to
override its normal operation and force the Body Function Controller (BFC) to enable its outputs
(engage relays, operate Courtesy Lighting, etc). This mode can be used to determine whether the
Body Function Controller (BFC) is capable of producing a given output. The outputs that can be
controlled are listed in TABLE #8.
SPI Data
Description
In this mode of operation, the scan tool can command the Instrument Cluster via Body Function
Controller (BFC) to determine proper Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) data bus operation. The data
that can be displayed is listed in TABLE #10.
BFC to Cluster Data
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Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4850
Description
In this mode of operation the scan tool can command the Instrument Cluster, by Class 2 message
to the Body Function Controller (BFC) and via the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial data bus
to override its normal operation and force the Instrument Cluster to enable its outputs (gauges
move, indicators lit etc). This mode can be used to determine whether the Instrument Cluster is
capable of producing a given output. The outputs that can be controlled are listed in TABLE #11.
Snapshot
The SNAPSHOT function is the same one used to capture DTCs for the Powertrain Control
Module.
Special Functions Menu
Description
In this mode of operation the technician is capable of turning on and off almost all of the Body
Function Controller (BFC) outputs. The functions that can be controlled are found under the Output
Control menu. The information in TABLE #12 shows what outputs the scan tool can command.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair > Body Function
Controller (BFC) Replacement
Body Control Module: Service and Repair Body Function Controller (BFC) Replacement
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Right sound insulator. 3. BFC assembly. 4. BFC connectors in the
following order: Pink Connector C3 first, then C1 and C2.
Install or Connect
1. BFC connectors in the following order: C1, C2 and Pink connector C3 last. 2. BFC Module 3.
Right sound insulator. 4. Negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair > Body Function
Controller (BFC) Replacement > Page 4853
Body Control Module: Service and Repair Body Function Controller Reprogramming Procedure
IMPORTANT
When removing the Body Function Controller (BFC) disconnect connector C3 FIRST, then
disconnect the remaining connectors. When installing the Body Function Controller (BFC) connect
connectors C1 and C2 first. ALWAYS connect connector C3 LAST.
USING A SCAN TOOL AND TECHLINE TERMINAL TO CONFIGURE THE BODY FUNCTION
CONTROLLER
1. Connect the scan tool to vehicle diagnostic connector, and choose Service Programming from
the scan tool Main Menu. 2. After entering the vehicle information, choose the Request Info soft
key on the scan tool. 3. Disconnect the scan tool from the vehicle and connect the scan tool to the
Techline Terminal. 4. At the Techline Terminal, select Service Programming System (SPS). 5.
Select Terminal to scan tool programming method. 6. Select Done and follow instructions on the
Communications Setup screen. 7. Select Program Body Function Controller. 8. Select Program at
the Summary screen. The terminal will download in formation to the Scan tool. 9. Return to the
vehicle and connect the scan tool to the diagnostic connector.
10. Select Service Programming from the scan tool Main Menu. 11. Answer the prompts regarding
model year and vehicle type. Press the Body Function Controller soft key on scan tool. The Body
Function
Controller will be programmed with the configuration file stored in the scan tool.
12. Reprogram the Theft Deterrent System. 13. Reprogram the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
14. Verify the repair.
TROUBLESHOOTING HINTS:
^ Make the following checks before beginning system diagnosis. 1. Check all fuses by visual
inspection. 2. Ensure that all connectors in system are mated correctly. 3. Check for open in Class
2 serial data link (CKT 1807). 4. Check for an open in the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial
data link (CKT 1321, 1322, 1323). 5. Do NOT replace the Body Function Controller (BFC) with only
History Codes set.
^ Check for a broken (or partially broken) wire inside of the insulation which could cause system
failure but prove GOOD in a continuity/voltage check.
^ Check for proper installation of aftermarket electronic equipment which may affect the integrity of
their systems.
^ Check that all grounds are tight and clean.
^ Refer to System Diagnosis.
SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
^ Perform the Body Function Controller (BFC) Diagnostic System Check and refer to the Symptom
Table for the appropriate diagnostic procedures.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Body Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair > Body Function
Controller (BFC) Replacement > Page 4854
Body Control Module: Service and Repair Reprogramming Procedure - Auto - Learn
The following procedure allows for anyone to reprogram the Body Function Controller (BFC)
Learned Data Code without any tools (other than the scan tool) when a new Ignition Switch,
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), and/or the BFC is installed. The following is the auto learn
procedure:
The BFC will set the DTC 3031 Controller in learn mode when entering the reprogramming
procedure.
1. Clear all DTC's 2. Turn the Ignition Switch to the START position. 3. The vehicle will start and
then stall. 4. Turn the Ignition Switch to the RUN position until the THEFT SYSTEM indicator turns
off (approximately 10 minutes). 5. Turn the Ignition Switch to the OFF position then back to the
RUN position. 6. The BFC will learn the new data on the next start attempt. 7. Reprogram the PCM
to allow the PCM to learn the new Passlock (TM) code.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest: > 77-65-29 > Nov > 97 > Instruments - Cluster Resets When Ham Radio Is Keyed
Engine Control Module: Customer Interest Instruments - Cluster Resets When Ham Radio Is
Keyed
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-29
Date: November, 1997
Subject: Instrument Cluster Resets when On-board Ham Radio is Keyed (Replace the PCM)
Models: 1997 Buick Century, Regal 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with
310013800 V6 Engine (VINs M, K, 1 - RPOs L82, L36, L67)
Condition Some vehicles may experience an instrument cluster reset if the vehicle has an on-board
Ham radio operating under the 10 MHz frequency range and the transmitter is keyed on.
Correction A new PCM has been released to correct this condition. The new PCM has a 47 Micro
Henry choke in place to eliminate the interference generated by the on-board Ham radio
equipment.
Do not forget to transfer the Knock Sensor Module from the old PCM into the new PCM.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Code Labor Time
J6360 PCM, Replace Use Published Labor Operation Time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
Engine Control Module: Customer Interest PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-17
Date: July, 1997
Subject: Unstable Engine Idle (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with 3100 V6 Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
Condition
Some owners may experience an unstable engine idle. The controlled engine idle may vary
approximately 50 RPM from desired idle. This typically occurs during an extended idle period
beyond 30 seconds with the transmission in park or neutral and the air conditioning turned off.
Cause
The Pre Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S1) voltage output is driven low and holds there
(lean). The Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2s2) voltage output will hold then at a high
voltage (rich). This can drive one sensor to cancel out the other thus not allowing fuel trim or the
Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor can take over fuel trim control. If the Post Converter
Heated Oxygen takes over fuel trim control, the system thinks it is running rich and the Long Term
Fuel Trim will make adjustments to lean the system. Either of these conditions will cause a rolling
or hunting idle.
Correction
Check the calibration identification number utilizing a scan tool device. Re-flash with the updated
calibration if the current calibration is not one listed in this bulletin. If the vehicle already has the
most recent calibration, then refer to the appropriate service repair manual to diagnose and repair.
Test drive the vehicle after repair to ensure that the condition has been corrected. The new
calibrations are available from the GM Service Technology Group starting with CD number 12 for
1997.
Important:
There are three methods for programming a PCM
1. Direct Programming. The vehicle is directly connected via the Data Link Connector (DLC) on the
Dealers/Retailers Techline equipment. (T-20 Plus, T-50 and T-60 only) Vehicle must be present.
2. Remote programming. The new program is downloaded into the Dealers/Retailers scan tool and
then downloaded into the vehicle from the scan tool via the DLC. Tech 2 required. Vehicle must be
present.
3. Off-Car Programming. A PCM may be programmed while removed from the vehicle by using the
off-board programming adapter (OBPA), P/N 41207-B. This adapter can be connected to either the
Techline Terminal for direct programming or the scan tool for remote programming. Not necessary
for the vehicle to be present.
Refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Techline Information for more detailed instructions.
Parts Information
Part Number Carline Emission
16266904 Malibu, Cutlass USA Nationwide
16266914 Malibu, Cutlass Canadian/Unleaded
Export
16266924 Malibu Leaded Export
Important:
Do not attempt to order the calibrations from GMSPO. The calibrations are programmed into the
vehicle's PCM via a Techline Tool device.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable Engine Idle > Page 4867
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 04-06-04-054B > Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket
Accessory Usage
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory
Usage
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-054B
Date: November 18, 2010
Subject: Info - Non-GM Parts and Accessories (Aftermarket)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years and update to the new U.S. Fixed
Operation Manager (FOM) and Canada Warranty Manager (WM) names. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 04-06-04-054A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
The recent rise and expansion of companies selling non-GM parts and accessories has made it
necessary to issue this reminder to dealers regarding GM's policy on the use and installation of
these aftermarket components.
When a dealer is performing a repair under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty, they are required to
use only genuine GM or GM-approved parts and accessories. This applies to all warranty repairs,
special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM. Parts and accessories advertised as being "the
same" as parts manufactured by GM, but not sold through GM, do not qualify for use in warranty
repairs, special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM.
During a warranty repair, if a GM original equipment part is not available through GM Customer
Care and Aftersales (GM CC&A;), ACDelco(R) distributors, other GM dealers or approved sources,
the dealer is to obtain comparable, non-GM parts and clearly indicate, in detail, on the repair order
the circumstances surrounding why non-GM parts were used. The dealer must give customers
written notice, prior to the sale or service, that such parts or accessories are not marketed or
warranted by General Motors.
It should also be noted that dealers modifying new vehicles and installing equipment, parts and
accessories obtained from sources not authorized by GM are responsible for complying with the
National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. Certain non-approved parts or assemblies, installed
by the dealer or its agent not authorized by GM, may result in a change to the vehicle's design
characteristics and may affect the vehicle's ability to conform to federal law. Dealers must fully
understand that non-GM approved parts may not have been validated, tested or certified for use.
This puts the dealer at risk for potential liability in the event of a part or vehicle failure. If a GM part
failure occurs as the result of the installation or use of a non-GM approved part, the warranty will
not be honored.
A good example of non-authorized modification of vehicles is the result of an ever increasing
supply of aftermarket devices available to the customer, which claim to increase the horsepower
and torque of the Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines. These include the addition of, but are not limited to
one or more of the following modifications:
- Propane injection
- Nitrous oxide injection
- Additional modules (black boxes) that connect to the vehicle wiring systems
- Revised engine calibrations downloaded for the engine control module
- Calibration modules which connect to the vehicle diagnostic connector
- Modification to the engine turbocharger waste gate
Although the installation of these devices, or modification of vehicle components, can increase
engine horsepower and torque, they may also negatively affect the engine emissions, reliability
and/or durability. In addition, other powertrain components, such as transmissions, universal joints,
drive shafts, and front/rear axle components, can be stressed beyond design safety limits by the
installation of these devices.
General Motors does not support or endorse the use of devices or modifications that, when
installed, increase the engine horsepower and torque. It is because of these unknown stresses,
and the potential to alter reliability, durability and emissions performance, that GM has adopted a
policy that prevents any UNAUTHORIZED dealer warranty claim submissions to any remaining
warranty coverage, to the powertrain and driveline components whenever the presence of a
non-GM (aftermarket) calibration is confirmed - even if the non-GM control module calibration is
subsequently removed. Refer to the latest version of Bulletin 09-06-04-026 (V8 Gas Engines) or
06-06-01-007 (Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines) for more information on dealer requirements for
calibration verification.
These same policies apply as they relate to the use of non-GM accessories. Damage or failure
from the use or installation of a non-GM accessory will not be covered under warranty. Failure
resulting from the alteration or modification of the vehicle, including the cutting, welding or
disconnecting of the vehicle's original equipment parts and components will void the warranty.
Additionally, dealers will NOT be reimbursed or compensated by GM in the event of any legal
inquiry at either the local, state or federal level that
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 04-06-04-054B > Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket
Accessory Usage > Page 4873
results from the alteration or modification of a vehicle using non-GM approved parts or accessories.
Dealers should be especially cautious of accessory companies that claim the installation of their
product will not void the factory warranty. Many times these companies have even given direction
on how to quickly disassemble the accessory in an attempt to preclude the manufacturer from
finding out that is has been installed.
Any suspect repairs should be reviewed by the Fixed Operations Manager (FOM), and in Canada
by the Warranty Manager (WM) for appropriate repair direction. If it is decided that a goodwill repair
is to be made on the vehicle, even with the installation of such non-GM approved components, the
customer is to be made aware of General Motors position on this issue and is to sign the
appropriate goodwill documentation required by General Motors.
It is imperative for dealers to understand that by installing such devices, they are jeopardizing not
only the warranty coverage, but also the performance and reliability of the customer's vehicle.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 02-08-116-001 > Jan > 02 > PCM - Intermittent Communication or
DTC Codes Stored
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM - Intermittent Communication or DTC
Codes Stored
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 02-08-116-001
Date: January, 2002
INFORMATION
Subject: Intermittent Communication or Serial Data DTC Codes Stored in History
Models: 1997-2002 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2002 Oldsmobile Alero 1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass
1999-2002 Pontiac Grand Am with 3.1L or 3.4L Engine (VINs J, M, E - RPOs LG8, L82, LA1)
Ignition Switch Usage
It is possible to set a Serial Data DTC Code with improper usage of the ignition switch. On the
above vehicles, if the ignition key is held between the ACCESSORY and ON position for over 5
seconds, and then rotated to ON and START sequentially, it is possible to set various DTC codes.
The customer may see an illuminated Service Engine Soon, ABS and/or ETS OFF (Electronic
Traction System) telltale. The next time the ignition switch is cycled, any set DTC codes will be
stored in history and any telltales will be turned off.
Important:
If the above condition is encountered and the ETS OFF and ABS lights are illuminated, the ABS
and ETS systems will be deactivated for that key cycle. Normal functioning of these systems will
resume with the next key cycle.
Why Does This Happen?
If the ignition switch is held between the ACCESSORY and ON detent positions, it is possible to
find a spot where the Ignition 1 input will be lost. If this condition remains for over 5 seconds, the
PCM will interpret the loss of that signal as a communication fault and set an appropriate DTC
code.
How to Resolve This Issue
^ Instruct the customer on the proper operation of the ignition switch.
^ Instruct the customer not to "fiddle" with the switch. Actions such as slowly turning the key in
order to see what instrument panel displays light in what order should be discouraged.
^ Do not attempt to hold the switch between detent positions.
^ Assure the customer that no fault exists in the vehicle and that under normal operating
conditions, this concern should not reappear.
^ There are no possible software changes that will prevent the above condition.
^ Do not attempt to replace the ignition switch to remedy this condition.
^ You may clear the history codes to eliminate any later diagnostic confusion. Refer to the Tech 2
Diagnostic Scan Tool Operating Manual for specific instructions on clearing history codes.
Important:
Do not attempt any repairs on the vehicle to remedy this condition.
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 83-81-32 > Sep > 98 > PCM Connector - Information on New
Service Kits
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM Connector - Information on New
Service Kits
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-81-32
Date: September, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: New Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Connector Service Kits
Models: 1996-99 All Passenger Cars except Geo and Catera
Two new kits have been released to service the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connector If the
connector has been damaged during servicing. This PCM has an aluminum body and is usually
mounted underhood.
Kit (P/N 12167308) contains the 80 way connector body, the cover, two each of four different
terminal retainers and 25 empty cavity plugs. No terminals are included.
If terminals are needed, use P/N 12084913 for 0.35 mm and 0.50 mm wire and P/N 12084912 for
0.80 mm wire. These terminals are included in the terminal repair kit J 38125A or B, and
replacements can be ordered from Kent-Moore.
kit (P/N 12167313) contains one connector seal. Whenever the connector is unbolted from the
aluminum body of the PCM, the seal can stick to the body, or may be twisted. This seal should be
replaced whenever the connector is removed in service.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12167308 Kit, PCM Harness Repair
12167313 Seal Kit, PCM Connector
12084912 Terminal
12084913 Terminal
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 77-65-29 > Nov > 97 > Instruments - Cluster Resets When Ham
Radio Is Keyed
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Instruments - Cluster Resets When Ham
Radio Is Keyed
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-29
Date: November, 1997
Subject: Instrument Cluster Resets when On-board Ham Radio is Keyed (Replace the PCM)
Models: 1997 Buick Century, Regal 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with
310013800 V6 Engine (VINs M, K, 1 - RPOs L82, L36, L67)
Condition Some vehicles may experience an instrument cluster reset if the vehicle has an on-board
Ham radio operating under the 10 MHz frequency range and the transmitter is keyed on.
Correction A new PCM has been released to correct this condition. The new PCM has a 47 Micro
Henry choke in place to eliminate the interference generated by the on-board Ham radio
equipment.
Do not forget to transfer the Knock Sensor Module from the old PCM into the new PCM.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Code Labor Time
J6360 PCM, Replace Use Published Labor Operation Time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-17
Date: July, 1997
Subject: Unstable Engine Idle (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with 3100 V6 Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
Condition
Some owners may experience an unstable engine idle. The controlled engine idle may vary
approximately 50 RPM from desired idle. This typically occurs during an extended idle period
beyond 30 seconds with the transmission in park or neutral and the air conditioning turned off.
Cause
The Pre Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S1) voltage output is driven low and holds there
(lean). The Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2s2) voltage output will hold then at a high
voltage (rich). This can drive one sensor to cancel out the other thus not allowing fuel trim or the
Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor can take over fuel trim control. If the Post Converter
Heated Oxygen takes over fuel trim control, the system thinks it is running rich and the Long Term
Fuel Trim will make adjustments to lean the system. Either of these conditions will cause a rolling
or hunting idle.
Correction
Check the calibration identification number utilizing a scan tool device. Re-flash with the updated
calibration if the current calibration is not one listed in this bulletin. If the vehicle already has the
most recent calibration, then refer to the appropriate service repair manual to diagnose and repair.
Test drive the vehicle after repair to ensure that the condition has been corrected. The new
calibrations are available from the GM Service Technology Group starting with CD number 12 for
1997.
Important:
There are three methods for programming a PCM
1. Direct Programming. The vehicle is directly connected via the Data Link Connector (DLC) on the
Dealers/Retailers Techline equipment. (T-20 Plus, T-50 and T-60 only) Vehicle must be present.
2. Remote programming. The new program is downloaded into the Dealers/Retailers scan tool and
then downloaded into the vehicle from the scan tool via the DLC. Tech 2 required. Vehicle must be
present.
3. Off-Car Programming. A PCM may be programmed while removed from the vehicle by using the
off-board programming adapter (OBPA), P/N 41207-B. This adapter can be connected to either the
Techline Terminal for direct programming or the scan tool for remote programming. Not necessary
for the vehicle to be present.
Refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Techline Information for more detailed instructions.
Parts Information
Part Number Carline Emission
16266904 Malibu, Cutlass USA Nationwide
16266914 Malibu, Cutlass Canadian/Unleaded
Export
16266924 Malibu Leaded Export
Important:
Do not attempt to order the calibrations from GMSPO. The calibrations are programmed into the
vehicle's PCM via a Techline Tool device.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable Engine Idle > Page 4890
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board
Program Adapter
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board
Program Adapter
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 73-65-13
Date: March, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Reprogramming Capability using the Off Board Programming Adapter
Models: 1993-97 Passenger Cars and Trucks (Applicable Reprogrammable Vehicles)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board
Program Adapter > Page 4895
The General Motors vehicles contain Electronically Reprogrammable Devices (i.e. PCM, VCM,
ECM). These vehicles cannot be programmed through PROM replacement, however service
programming capability is available through the Tech 1/1A, Tech 2 and Techline terminals via
direct or remote programming.
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has requested that all new vehicle manufacturers
ensure their dealers/retailers are aware that they are responsible for providing customers access to
reprogramming services at a reasonable cost and in a timely manner.
Although programming of controllers has become a common service practice at GM
dealers/retailers, the EPA has received reports from consumers and the aftermarket repair industry
that they were unable to purchase a new (programmed) Electronically Reprogrammable Device
(ERD) over-the-counter. As a result, on August 1, 1995, the Federal Government issued a
regulation requiring all manufacturers to make available reprogramming to the independent
aftermarket by December 1, 1997.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board
Program Adapter > Page 4896
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board
Program Adapter > Page 4897
Today, the Off Board Programming Adapter (OBPA) is used to reprogram ERD's sold
over-the-counter. For all practical purposes, the OBPA takes the place of the vehicle when the
vehicle is not available.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board
Program Adapter > Page 4898
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board
Program Adapter > Page 4899
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board
Program Adapter > Page 4900
The list of dealerships/retailers currently own the OBPA (see Attachments 1 - 3). These locations
are equipped to provide over-the-counter preprogrammed ERD's. The hardware required to
perform reprogramming in addition to the OBPA is a Techline terminal, Tech 1/1A and associated
cables and adapters. THE TECH 2 SHOULD NOT BE USED WITH THE OBPA AT THIS TIME
BECAUSE OF INADEQUATE OBPA GROUNDING.
The current OBPA can support reprogramming on all late model General Motor's vehicles except:
^ Premium V-8's
^ 1996 Diesel Truck
^ Cadillac Catera
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board
Program Adapter > Page 4901
^ All 1997 programmable vehicles (requires use of the Tech 2)
A modification to the OBPA is being offered by Kent-Moore to support these additional vehicles and
to allow reprogramming using the Tech 2. The revisions to the OBPA for the Tech 2 is very
important as the Tech 2 is the only tool used for service programming for 1997 and future vehicles.
To have the modifications performed, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The revisions (part
number J 41207 REV-C) are free of charge for GM dealerships/retailers.
A dealership/retailer can purchase the OBPA by contacting Kent-Moore (part number J 41207-C).
Support on how to use the OBPA is provided by the Techline Customer Support Center (TCSC) at
(800) 828-6860 (English) or (800) 503-3222 (French).
If you need to purchase an OBPA and/or cable, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The OBPA
retails for $695.00 (includes all revisions 1-4) under part number J 41207-C.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 676535 > Nov > 96 > PCM - New Identification Label
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM - New Identification Label
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 67-65-35
Date: November, 1996
INFORMATION
Subject: New PCM Identification Label
Models: Late 1996 and All 1997 Passenger Cars with Powertrain Control Modules (PCM)
PCM Label
Effective March 7, 1996, all 1996-1/2 and 1997 model year passenger cars received a change to
the identification label used on PCM's. Other than its appearance, these changes do not affect the
service replacement procedure of PCM's. The illustration details the changes.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 04-06-04-054B > Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory
Usage
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory
Usage
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-054B
Date: November 18, 2010
Subject: Info - Non-GM Parts and Accessories (Aftermarket)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years and update to the new U.S. Fixed
Operation Manager (FOM) and Canada Warranty Manager (WM) names. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 04-06-04-054A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
The recent rise and expansion of companies selling non-GM parts and accessories has made it
necessary to issue this reminder to dealers regarding GM's policy on the use and installation of
these aftermarket components.
When a dealer is performing a repair under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty, they are required to
use only genuine GM or GM-approved parts and accessories. This applies to all warranty repairs,
special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM. Parts and accessories advertised as being "the
same" as parts manufactured by GM, but not sold through GM, do not qualify for use in warranty
repairs, special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM.
During a warranty repair, if a GM original equipment part is not available through GM Customer
Care and Aftersales (GM CC&A;), ACDelco(R) distributors, other GM dealers or approved sources,
the dealer is to obtain comparable, non-GM parts and clearly indicate, in detail, on the repair order
the circumstances surrounding why non-GM parts were used. The dealer must give customers
written notice, prior to the sale or service, that such parts or accessories are not marketed or
warranted by General Motors.
It should also be noted that dealers modifying new vehicles and installing equipment, parts and
accessories obtained from sources not authorized by GM are responsible for complying with the
National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. Certain non-approved parts or assemblies, installed
by the dealer or its agent not authorized by GM, may result in a change to the vehicle's design
characteristics and may affect the vehicle's ability to conform to federal law. Dealers must fully
understand that non-GM approved parts may not have been validated, tested or certified for use.
This puts the dealer at risk for potential liability in the event of a part or vehicle failure. If a GM part
failure occurs as the result of the installation or use of a non-GM approved part, the warranty will
not be honored.
A good example of non-authorized modification of vehicles is the result of an ever increasing
supply of aftermarket devices available to the customer, which claim to increase the horsepower
and torque of the Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines. These include the addition of, but are not limited to
one or more of the following modifications:
- Propane injection
- Nitrous oxide injection
- Additional modules (black boxes) that connect to the vehicle wiring systems
- Revised engine calibrations downloaded for the engine control module
- Calibration modules which connect to the vehicle diagnostic connector
- Modification to the engine turbocharger waste gate
Although the installation of these devices, or modification of vehicle components, can increase
engine horsepower and torque, they may also negatively affect the engine emissions, reliability
and/or durability. In addition, other powertrain components, such as transmissions, universal joints,
drive shafts, and front/rear axle components, can be stressed beyond design safety limits by the
installation of these devices.
General Motors does not support or endorse the use of devices or modifications that, when
installed, increase the engine horsepower and torque. It is because of these unknown stresses,
and the potential to alter reliability, durability and emissions performance, that GM has adopted a
policy that prevents any UNAUTHORIZED dealer warranty claim submissions to any remaining
warranty coverage, to the powertrain and driveline components whenever the presence of a
non-GM (aftermarket) calibration is confirmed - even if the non-GM control module calibration is
subsequently removed. Refer to the latest version of Bulletin 09-06-04-026 (V8 Gas Engines) or
06-06-01-007 (Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines) for more information on dealer requirements for
calibration verification.
These same policies apply as they relate to the use of non-GM accessories. Damage or failure
from the use or installation of a non-GM accessory will not be covered under warranty. Failure
resulting from the alteration or modification of the vehicle, including the cutting, welding or
disconnecting of the vehicle's original equipment parts and components will void the warranty.
Additionally, dealers will NOT be reimbursed or compensated by GM in the event of any legal
inquiry at either the local, state or federal level that
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Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 04-06-04-054B > Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory
Usage > Page 4911
results from the alteration or modification of a vehicle using non-GM approved parts or accessories.
Dealers should be especially cautious of accessory companies that claim the installation of their
product will not void the factory warranty. Many times these companies have even given direction
on how to quickly disassemble the accessory in an attempt to preclude the manufacturer from
finding out that is has been installed.
Any suspect repairs should be reviewed by the Fixed Operations Manager (FOM), and in Canada
by the Warranty Manager (WM) for appropriate repair direction. If it is decided that a goodwill repair
is to be made on the vehicle, even with the installation of such non-GM approved components, the
customer is to be made aware of General Motors position on this issue and is to sign the
appropriate goodwill documentation required by General Motors.
It is imperative for dealers to understand that by installing such devices, they are jeopardizing not
only the warranty coverage, but also the performance and reliability of the customer's vehicle.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 02-08-116-001 > Jan > 02 > PCM - Intermittent Communication or
DTC Codes Stored
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM - Intermittent Communication or DTC
Codes Stored
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 02-08-116-001
Date: January, 2002
INFORMATION
Subject: Intermittent Communication or Serial Data DTC Codes Stored in History
Models: 1997-2002 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2002 Oldsmobile Alero 1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass
1999-2002 Pontiac Grand Am with 3.1L or 3.4L Engine (VINs J, M, E - RPOs LG8, L82, LA1)
Ignition Switch Usage
It is possible to set a Serial Data DTC Code with improper usage of the ignition switch. On the
above vehicles, if the ignition key is held between the ACCESSORY and ON position for over 5
seconds, and then rotated to ON and START sequentially, it is possible to set various DTC codes.
The customer may see an illuminated Service Engine Soon, ABS and/or ETS OFF (Electronic
Traction System) telltale. The next time the ignition switch is cycled, any set DTC codes will be
stored in history and any telltales will be turned off.
Important:
If the above condition is encountered and the ETS OFF and ABS lights are illuminated, the ABS
and ETS systems will be deactivated for that key cycle. Normal functioning of these systems will
resume with the next key cycle.
Why Does This Happen?
If the ignition switch is held between the ACCESSORY and ON detent positions, it is possible to
find a spot where the Ignition 1 input will be lost. If this condition remains for over 5 seconds, the
PCM will interpret the loss of that signal as a communication fault and set an appropriate DTC
code.
How to Resolve This Issue
^ Instruct the customer on the proper operation of the ignition switch.
^ Instruct the customer not to "fiddle" with the switch. Actions such as slowly turning the key in
order to see what instrument panel displays light in what order should be discouraged.
^ Do not attempt to hold the switch between detent positions.
^ Assure the customer that no fault exists in the vehicle and that under normal operating
conditions, this concern should not reappear.
^ There are no possible software changes that will prevent the above condition.
^ Do not attempt to replace the ignition switch to remedy this condition.
^ You may clear the history codes to eliminate any later diagnostic confusion. Refer to the Tech 2
Diagnostic Scan Tool Operating Manual for specific instructions on clearing history codes.
Important:
Do not attempt any repairs on the vehicle to remedy this condition.
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 83-81-32 > Sep > 98 > PCM Connector - Information on New Service
Kits
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM Connector - Information on New
Service Kits
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-81-32
Date: September, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: New Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Connector Service Kits
Models: 1996-99 All Passenger Cars except Geo and Catera
Two new kits have been released to service the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connector If the
connector has been damaged during servicing. This PCM has an aluminum body and is usually
mounted underhood.
Kit (P/N 12167308) contains the 80 way connector body, the cover, two each of four different
terminal retainers and 25 empty cavity plugs. No terminals are included.
If terminals are needed, use P/N 12084913 for 0.35 mm and 0.50 mm wire and P/N 12084912 for
0.80 mm wire. These terminals are included in the terminal repair kit J 38125A or B, and
replacements can be ordered from Kent-Moore.
kit (P/N 12167313) contains one connector seal. Whenever the connector is unbolted from the
aluminum body of the PCM, the seal can stick to the body, or may be twisted. This seal should be
replaced whenever the connector is removed in service.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12167308 Kit, PCM Harness Repair
12167313 Seal Kit, PCM Connector
12084912 Terminal
12084913 Terminal
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program
Adapter
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board
Program Adapter
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 73-65-13
Date: March, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Reprogramming Capability using the Off Board Programming Adapter
Models: 1993-97 Passenger Cars and Trucks (Applicable Reprogrammable Vehicles)
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Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program
Adapter > Page 4924
The General Motors vehicles contain Electronically Reprogrammable Devices (i.e. PCM, VCM,
ECM). These vehicles cannot be programmed through PROM replacement, however service
programming capability is available through the Tech 1/1A, Tech 2 and Techline terminals via
direct or remote programming.
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has requested that all new vehicle manufacturers
ensure their dealers/retailers are aware that they are responsible for providing customers access to
reprogramming services at a reasonable cost and in a timely manner.
Although programming of controllers has become a common service practice at GM
dealers/retailers, the EPA has received reports from consumers and the aftermarket repair industry
that they were unable to purchase a new (programmed) Electronically Reprogrammable Device
(ERD) over-the-counter. As a result, on August 1, 1995, the Federal Government issued a
regulation requiring all manufacturers to make available reprogramming to the independent
aftermarket by December 1, 1997.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program
Adapter > Page 4925
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Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program
Adapter > Page 4926
Today, the Off Board Programming Adapter (OBPA) is used to reprogram ERD's sold
over-the-counter. For all practical purposes, the OBPA takes the place of the vehicle when the
vehicle is not available.
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Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program
Adapter > Page 4927
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program
Adapter > Page 4928
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program
Adapter > Page 4929
The list of dealerships/retailers currently own the OBPA (see Attachments 1 - 3). These locations
are equipped to provide over-the-counter preprogrammed ERD's. The hardware required to
perform reprogramming in addition to the OBPA is a Techline terminal, Tech 1/1A and associated
cables and adapters. THE TECH 2 SHOULD NOT BE USED WITH THE OBPA AT THIS TIME
BECAUSE OF INADEQUATE OBPA GROUNDING.
The current OBPA can support reprogramming on all late model General Motor's vehicles except:
^ Premium V-8's
^ 1996 Diesel Truck
^ Cadillac Catera
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Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program
Adapter > Page 4930
^ All 1997 programmable vehicles (requires use of the Tech 2)
A modification to the OBPA is being offered by Kent-Moore to support these additional vehicles and
to allow reprogramming using the Tech 2. The revisions to the OBPA for the Tech 2 is very
important as the Tech 2 is the only tool used for service programming for 1997 and future vehicles.
To have the modifications performed, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The revisions (part
number J 41207 REV-C) are free of charge for GM dealerships/retailers.
A dealership/retailer can purchase the OBPA by contacting Kent-Moore (part number J 41207-C).
Support on how to use the OBPA is provided by the Techline Customer Support Center (TCSC) at
(800) 828-6860 (English) or (800) 503-3222 (French).
If you need to purchase an OBPA and/or cable, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The OBPA
retails for $695.00 (includes all revisions 1-4) under part number J 41207-C.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 676535 > Nov > 96 > PCM - New Identification Label
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM - New Identification Label
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 67-65-35
Date: November, 1996
INFORMATION
Subject: New PCM Identification Label
Models: Late 1996 and All 1997 Passenger Cars with Powertrain Control Modules (PCM)
PCM Label
Effective March 7, 1996, all 1996-1/2 and 1997 model year passenger cars received a change to
the identification label used on PCM's. Other than its appearance, these changes do not affect the
service replacement procedure of PCM's. The illustration details the changes.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Engine Control Module: Component Locations
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)
RH Front Of Dash
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is located in the RH front of Instrument Panel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations >
Page 4937
Below LH Side Of I/P, Near Steering Column
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions
Engine Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 4941
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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and Instructions > Page 4942
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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and Instructions > Page 4943
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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and Instructions > Page 4944
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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and Instructions > Page 4945
Engine Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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and Instructions > Page 4946
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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and Instructions > Page 4971
Engine Control Module: Connector Views
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and Instructions > Page 4972
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and Instructions > Page 4973
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and Instructions > Page 4974
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and Instructions > Page 4975
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and Instructions > Page 4976
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and Instructions > Page 4977
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Engine Control Module: Service Precautions
CAUTION: In order to prevent possible Electrostatic Discharge damage to the PCM, Do Not touch
the connector pins or the soldered components on the circuit board.
Electronic components used in the control systems are often designed in order to carry very low
voltage. Electronic components are susceptible to damage caused by electrostatic discharge. Less
than 100 volts of static electricity can cause damage to some electronic components. There are
several ways for a person to become statically charged. The most common methods of charging
are by friction and by induction. An example of charging by friction is a person sliding across a car
seat. Charging by induction occurs when a person with well insulated shoes stands near a highly
charged object and momentarily touches ground. Charges of the same polarity are drained off
leaving the person highly charged with the opposite polarity. Static charges can cause damage;
therefore, it is important to use care when handling and testing electronic components.
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Engine Control Module: Application and ID
PCM Label
*****This is a TSB Update-Bulletin No.: 67-65-35, Date: November, 1996*****
INFORMATION
Subject: New PCM Identification Label
Effective March 7, 1996, all 1996-1/2 and 1997 model year passenger cars received a change to
the identification label used on PCM's. Other than its appearance, these changes do not affect the
service replacement procedure of PCM's. The illustration details the changes.
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Engine Control Module: Description and Operation
Figure C1-1 - Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Description
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is located underhood in front of the right strut tower near the
engine coolant reservoir. It is the control center of the fuel injection system and constantly looks at
the information from various sensors and controls the systems that affect vehicle performance. It
controls the following items:
^ Fuel metering system.
^ Transaxle shifting.
^ Ignition timing.
^ On-board diagnostics for Powertrain functions.
It constantly looks at the information from various sensors, and controls the systems that affect
vehicle performance. The PCM also performs the diagnostic function of the system. It can
recognize operational problems, alert the driver through the MIL (Service Engine Soon), and store
diagnostic trouble codes which identify the problem areas to aid the technician in making repairs.
Refer to Introduction in Engine Controls for more information on using the diagnostic function of the
PCM.
For service, the PCM consists of two parts:
^ The controller (the PCM without the Knock Sensor module).
^ the Knock Sensor module.
PCM Function
The PCM supplies either 5 or 12 volts to power various sensors or switches. This is done through
resistances in the PCM which are so high in value that a test light will not light when connected to
the circuit. In some cases, even an ordinary shop voltmeter will not give an accurate reading
because its resistance is too low. Therefore, a digital voltmeter with at least 10 megohms input
impedance is required to ensure accurate voltage readings. Tool J 39200 meets this requirement.
EEPROM
The Electrically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory (EEPROM) is a permanent memory
that is physically soldered within the PCM. The EEPROM contains program and calibration
information that the PCM needs to control powertrain operation. Unlike the PROM used in certain
past applications, the EEPROM is not replaceable. If the PCM is replaced, the new PCM will need
to be programmed Techline equipment (Tech-2) containing the correct program and calibration for
the vehicle is required to program the PCM.
Knock Sensor Module
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The PCM contains a replaceable Knock Sensor (KS) module. The KS module contains the circuitry
that allows the PCM to utilize the KS signal and diagnose the KS sensor and circuitry. If the PCM is
replaced, the KS module needs to be transferred from the original PCM. If the KS module is
missing or faulty causing a continuous knock condition to be indicated, the PCM will set DTC
P0325.
Information Sensors
All of the sensors and input switches can be diagnosed using a scan tool. Following is a short
description of how the sensors and switches can be diagnosed by using a scan tool. The scan tool
can also be used to compare the values for a normal running engine with the engine you are
diagnosing.
Password Learn Procedure
In order for a theft deterrent vehicle to run, a password is communicated between the instrument
Panel Cluster (IPC) and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). If a PCM is replaced, the new PCM
needs to learn the correct password of the vehicle. When the new PCM is installed, the EEPROM
calibration is flashed into the new PCM and the vehicle will learn the new password upon initial
ignition On. If the IPC is replaced, the PCM needs to learn the new password from the IPC. The
Password learn procedure is as follows:
1. Attempt to start vehicle, then leave the ignition On. The Theft System telltale will flash for 10
minutes. 2. When the Theft System telltale stops flashing, start the vehicle. Once the vehicle is
running, the password is learned.
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Tests and General Diagnostics
Engine Control Module: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure
The crankshaft position system variation compensating values are stored in the PCM non-volatile
memory after a learn procedure has been performed. If the actual crankshaft position system
variation is not within the crankshaft position system variation compensating values stored in the
PCM, DTC P0300 may set refer to DTC P0300 Engine Misfire Detected. See: Testing and
Inspection
The Crankshaft Position System Variation Learn Procedure should be performed if any of the
following conditions are true:
^ DTC P1336 is set.
^ The PCM has been replaced.
^ The PCM has been reprogrammed.
^ The engine has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft harmonic balancer has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft position sensor has been replaced.
Important: The scan tool crankshaft position system variation learn function will be inhibited if
engine coolant temperature is less than 70°C (156°F). Allow the engine to warm to at least 70°C
(156°F) before attempting the crankshaft position system variation learn procedure.
The scan tool crankshaft position system variation learn function will be inhibited if any powertrain
DTCs other than DTC P1336 are set before or during the crankshaft position system variation learn
procedure. Diagnose and repair any DTCs if set. The crankshaft position system variation learn
function will be inhibited if the PCM detects a malfunction involving the camshaft position signal
circuit, the 3X reference circuit, or the 24X reference circuit.
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the Cam signal, refer to DTC P0341 CMP Sensor Circuit
Performance. See: Testing and Inspection
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the 3X crank signal, refer to DTC P1374 3X Reference
Circuit. See: Testing and Inspection
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the 24X crank signal, refer to DTC P0336 24X Reference
Signal Circuit. See: Testing and Inspection
1. Set the parking brake. 2. Start the engine and allow engine coolant temperature to reach at least
70°C (158°F). 3. Turn OFF the ignition switch. 4. Select the crankshaft position variation learn
procedure from the scan tool special functions list. 5. Follow the instructions displayed on the scan
tool. If the procedure is terminated, refer to Important above for instructions. 6. Observe DTC status
for DTC P1336. 7. If the scan tool indicates that DTC P1336 ran and passed, the crankshaft
position system variation learn procedure is complete. If the scan tool
indicates DTC P1336 failed or not run, check for other DTCs. If no DTCs other than P1336 are set,
repeat the crankshaft position system variation learn procedure as necessary.
PCM Diagnosis
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Tests and General Diagnostics > Page 4984
Figure C1-1 - Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Important: The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is programmed into the PCM. Do not exchange
a PCM from another vehicle for testing or replacement. When replacing the PCM, the VIN must
also be programmed into the new PCM.
Because the PCM can have a failure which may affect only one circuit, follow the diagnostic
procedures to determine which circuit has a problem and where it is.
If a diagnostic chart indicates that the PCM connections or PCM is the cause of a problem and the
PCM is replaced, but does not correct the problem, one of the following may be the reason:
There is a problem with the PCM terminal connections, The diagnostic chart will say PCM
connections or PCM. The terminals may have to be removed from the connector in order to check
them properly.
^ EEPROM program is not correct for the application. Incorrect components may cause a
malfunction and may or may not set a DTC.
^ The problem is intermittent. This means that the problem is not present at the time the system is
being checked. In this case, refer to the Symptoms and make a careful physical inspection of all
components and wiring associated with the affected system. See: Testing and Inspection
^ There is a shorted solenoid, relay coil, or harness. Solenoids and relays are turned on and off by
the PCM using internal electronic switches called drivers. Each driver is part of a group of seven
called Output Driver Modules. A shorted solenoid, relay coil, or harness will not damage the PCM
but will cause the solenoid or relay to be inoperative. The J 34636 tester, or equivalent, provides a
fast, accurate means of checking for a shorted coil or a short to battery voltage.
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Learn Procedure
Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Password Learn Procedure
In order for a theft deterrent vehicle to run, a password is communicated between the Body
Function Control (BFC) and the PCM. If a PCM is replaced, the new PCM needs to learn the
correct password of the vehicle. When the new PCM is installed, the EEPROM calibration is
flashed into the new PCM and the vehicle will learn the new password upon the initial ignition ON
cycle. If the Body Function Control (BFC) is replaced, the PCM needs to learn the new password
from the Body Function Control (BFC). The password learn procedure is as follows:
1. Attempt to the start vehicle. The vehicle will stall. 2. Leave the ignition ON until the Theft System
telltale turns off (approx.10 minutes). 3. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 4. Attempt to the start vehicle.
The vehicle will start on the this attempt. The password is now learned.
Attempting to start the vehicle by bypassing the Passlock II system or substituting parts without
performing the password learn procedure may set a DTC P1630 and P1631.
If no password is received a DTC P1610 and P1626 may be set. Refer to the applicable DTC table
if set. See: Testing and Inspection
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Learn Procedure > Page 4987
Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Replacement
PCM Replacement/Programming (Replacement)
Notice: In order to prevent internal damage to the PCM, the ignition must be OFF when
disconnecting or reconnecting the PCM connector.
Note: Service of the PCM should normally consist of either replacement of the PCM, EEPROM
re-programming. If the diagnostic procedures call for the PCM to be replaced, the PCM should be
checked first to see if it is the correct part. DTC P0601 indicates the EEPROM programming has
malfunctioned. When DTC P0601 is obtained, re-program the EEPROM. The ignition should be
OFF for at least 10 seconds before disconnecting power to the PCM so the IAC valve has time to
move to the engine OFF position.
Removal Procedure
Important: To prevent internal PCM damage, the ignition must be off when disconnecting or
reconnecting power to PCM (for example, battery cable, PCM pigtail, PCM fuse, jumper cables,
etc.). The ignition should be OFF for at least 10 seconds before disconnecting power to the PCM
so the IAC valve has time to move to the engine OFF position.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the LH hush panel. 3. Loosen the PCM
connector screws (1).
Notice: In order to prevent possible electrostatic discharge damage to the PCM, do not touch the
connector pins or soldered components on the circuit board. Do not remove the integrated circuit
boards from the carrier.
4. Disconnect the PCM electrical connectors. 5. Remove the PCM Retainer. 6. Slide the PCM from
the PCM bracket.
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Learn Procedure > Page 4988
Installation Procedure
Remove the new PCM from its packaging and check the service number to make sure it is the
same number or updated number as the faulty PCM.
1. Slide the PCM into the PCM bracket. 2. Install the PCM Retainer.
Notice: In order to prevent possible electrostatic discharge damage to the PCM, do not touch the
connector pins or soldered components on the circuit board. Do not remove the integrated circuit
boards from the carrier.
3. Install the PCM electrical connectors. 4. Tighten the PCM connector screws (1). 5. Install the LH
hush panel. 6. Connect the negative battery cable.
Important: Replacement PCMs must be reprogrammed and the crankshaft position system
variation procedure must be performed. Refer to the latest Techline information for PCM
programming and Crankshaft Position System Variation Procedure. See: Crankshaft Position
Sensor/Testing and Inspection
7. Reprogram the PCM.
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Knock Sensor Module: Service Precautions
CAUTION: In order to prevent possible Electrostatic Discharge damage to the PCM, Do Not touch
the connector pins or the soldered components on the circuit board.
Electronic components used in the control systems are often designed in order to carry very low
voltage. Electronic components are susceptible to damage caused by electrostatic discharge. Less
than 100 volts of static electricity can cause damage to some electronic components. There are
several ways for a person to become statically charged. The most common methods of charging
are by friction and by induction. An example of charging by friction is a person sliding across a car
seat. Charging by induction occurs when a person with well insulated shoes stands near a highly
charged object and momentarily touches ground. Charges of the same polarity are drained off
leaving the person highly charged with the opposite polarity. Static charges can cause damage;
therefore, it is important to use care when handling and testing electronic components.
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Knock Sensor Module: Description and Operation
Knock Sensor Inside PCM
Description
The PCM contains a replaceable Knock Sensor (KS) module. The KS module contains the circuitry
that allows the PCM to utilize the KS signal and diagnose the KS sensor and circuitry. If the PCM is
replaced, the KS module needs to be transferred from the original PCM. If the KS module is
missing or faulty causing a continuous knock condition to be indicated, the PCM will set DTC
P0325.
The scan tool has four data displays available for diagnosing the KS system. The 4 displays are
described as follows:
^ KS Activity is used to monitor the input signal from the knock sensor. This counter will display
Yes while knock is being detected.
^ Knock Retard is the indication of how much the PCM is retarding the spark. The PCM will retard
spark in response to the Knock signal or the Traction Control system Desired Torque signal.
^ KS Noise Channel indicates the current voltage level being monitored on the noise channel.
DTCs P0325, P0326, and P0327 are designed to diagnose the KS module, the knock sensors, and
related wiring, so problems encountered with the KS system should set a DTC. However, if no DTC
was set but the KS system is suspect because detonation was the customer's complaint, refer to
Detonation/Spark Knock in Symptoms. See: Testing and Inspection
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Knock Sensor Module: Testing and Inspection
The PCM contains a replaceable Knock Sensor (KS) module. The KS module contains the circuitry
that allows the PCM to utilize the KS signal and diagnose the KS sensors and circuitry. If the KS
module is missing or faulty causing a continuous knock condition to be indicated, the PCM will set
DTC P0325.
The scan tool has four data displays available for diagnosing the KS system. The 4 displays are
described as follows:
^ KS Activity is used to monitor the input signal from the knock sensor. This counter will display
Yes while knock is being detected.
^ Knock Retard is the indication of how much the PCM is retarding the spark. The PCM will retard
spark in response to the Knock signal or the Traction Control system Desired Torque signal.
^ KS Noise Channel indicates the current voltage level being monitored on the noise channel.
DTCs P0325, P0326, and P0327 are designed to diagnose the KS module, the knock sensors, and
related wiring, so problems encountered with the KS system should set a DTC. However, if no DTC
was set but the KS system is suspect because detonation was the customer's complaint, refer to
Detonation/Spark Knock in Symptoms. See: Testing and Inspection
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Knock Sensor Module: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the PCM. Refer to PCM Replacement/Programming. 2. Remove the access cover from
the PCM. 3. Carefully squeeze the latches on the KS Module and carefully remove the KS Module.
Apply pressure in the direction as shown.
Installation Procedure
1. Carefully insert the KS module into the socket. 2. Carefully press down on the KS Module until
the latches catch. 3. Install the PCM access cover. 4. Install the PCM. Refer to PCM
Replacement/Programming.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information >
Locations
Top Left Side Of Engine
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5028
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5032
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
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Diagrams > Page 5034
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor measures the amount of air which passes through the throttle
body. The PCM uses this information to determine the operating condition of the engine, to control
fuel delivery. A large quantity of air indicates acceleration, while a small quantity indicates
deceleration or idle.
The scan tool reads the MAF value and displays it in grams per second (gm/s). At idle, it should
read between 4 gm/s-7 gm/s on a fully warmed up engine. Values should change rather quickly on
acceleration, but values should remain fairly stable at any given RPM. A failure in the MAF sensor
or circuit should set DTC P0101, DTC P0102, or DTC P0103.
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove the MAF sensor electrical connector. 2. Remove the air inlet duct from the MAF sensor.
3. Remove the MAF sensor from the air filter housing.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Carefully install the MAF sensor to the air inlet grommet. 2. Install the MAF sensor to the air inlet
duct. 3. Reconnect the electrical connector.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Camshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Camshaft Position Sensor Bolt ............................................................................................................
........................................................... 10 Nm (8 lb ft)
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Top Rear Of Engine
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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and Instructions > Page 5068
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 5069
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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and Instructions > Page 5070
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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and Instructions > Page 5071
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 5072
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 5073
Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Camshaft Position Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) sends a cam signal to the PCM which uses it as a sync
pulse to trigger the injectors in proper sequence. The CAM signal is passed through the ignition
control module. It is filtered and buffered by the ignition control module, but the signal is not
processed in any other way. The PCM uses the CAM signal to indicate the position of the #1 piston
during its power stroke. This allows the PCM to calculate true Sequential Fuel Injection (SFI) mode
of operation. If the PCM detects an incorrect CAM signal while the engine is running, DTC P0341
will set.
If the CAM signal is lost while the engine is running, the fuel injection system will shift to a
calculated sequential fuel injection mode based on the last fuel injection pulse, and the engine will
continue to run. The engine can be restarted and will run in the calculated sequential mode as long
as the fault is present with a 1 in 6 chance of injector sequence being correct. Refer to DTC P0341/
Diagnostic Trouble Code Tables for further information. See: Testing and Inspection
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
Camshaft Position Sensor
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the serpentine drive belt. 3. Refer to Steering
and Suspension for removal of power steering pump assembly. 4. Remove the electrical connector.
5. Remove the bolt. 6. Remove the sensor.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the Camshaft Position Sensor.
Tighten Retaining bolt to 10 Nm (8 lb. ft.).
2. Install the electrical Connector 3. Install the power steering pump. 4. Install the serpentine drive
belt.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information >
Specifications > Electrical Specifications
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Electrical Specifications
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
100°C (212°F) .....................................................................................................................................
......................................................... 177 Ohms 90°C (194°F) ............................................................
................................................................................................................................... 241 Ohms 80°C
(176°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 332 Ohms 70°C (158°F) ......................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 467 Ohms 60°C
(140°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 667 Ohms 50°C (122°F) ......................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 973 Ohms 40°C
(104°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 1,459 Ohms 30°C (86°F) ........................................................................
...................................................................................................................... 2,238 Ohms 20°C
(68°F) ..................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 3,520 Ohms 10°C (50°F) ........................................................................
...................................................................................................................... 5,670 Ohms 0°C (32°F)
..............................................................................................................................................................
................................. 9,420 Ohms -10°C (14°F) ..................................................................................
.......................................................................................................... 16,180 Ohms -20°C (-4°F) .......
..............................................................................................................................................................
........................ 28,680 Ohms -30°C (-22°F) .......................................................................................
.................................................................................................... 52,700 Ohms -40°C (-40°F) ...........
..............................................................................................................................................................
................ 100,700 Ohms
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information >
Specifications > Electrical Specifications > Page 5080
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Mechanical Specifications
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
............................................................................................................................................... 23 Nm
(17 lb. ft.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 5081
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
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Specifications > Page 5082
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is a thermistor (a resistor which changes value
based on temperature) mounted in the engine coolant stream. Low coolant temperature produces a
high resistance (100,000 ohms at -40°C/-40°F) while high temperature causes low resistance (70
ohms at 130°C/266°F).
OPERATION
The PCM supplies a 5 volt signal to the engine coolant temperature sensor through a resistor in the
PCM and measures the voltage. The voltage will be high when the engine is cold, and low when
the engine is hot. By measuring the voltage, the PCM calculates the engine coolant temperature.
Engine coolant temperature affects most systems the PCM controls.
The scan tool displays engine coolant temperature in degrees. After engine start-up, the
temperature should rise steadily to about 90°C (194°F) then stabilize when thermostat opens. If the
engine has not been run for several hours (overnight) the engine coolant temperature and intake
air temperature displays should be close to each other. A hard fault in the engine coolant sensor
circuit should set DTC P0117 or DTC P0118; an intermittent fault should set a DTC P1114 or
P1115. The DTC Diagnostic Aids also contains a chart to check for sensor resistance values
relative to temperature.
The ECT sensor also contains another circuit which is used to operate the engine coolant
temperature gauge located in the instrument panel.
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Specifications > Page 5083
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Relieve coolant pressure. 2. Air intake duct. 3. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 4. Remove
the electrical connector. 5. Using a deep well socket and extension, remove the sensor.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Coat engine coolant temperature sensor threads with sealer P/N 9985253 or equivalent. 2.
Install the sensor in the engine.
Tighten Sensor to 23 Nm (17 lb. ft.).
3. Install the electrical connector. 4. Air intake duct. 5. Connect the negative battery cable. 6. Start
the engine. 7. Check for leaks. 8. Check the coolant level, replenish as needed.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Specifications > 24X Crankshaft
Position Sensor
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications 24X Crankshaft Position Sensor
Camshaft Position Sensor Bolt ............................................................................................................
......................................................... 10 Nm (8 lb. ft.)
Crankshaft Balancer Bolt Torque [1]
...................................................................................................................................................... 150
Nm (110 lb. ft.)
[1] Apply thread sealer GM # 1052080 or equivalent to threads.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Specifications > 24X Crankshaft
Position Sensor > Page 5088
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications 7X Crankshaft Position Sensor
Crankshaft Sensor Bolt Torque ...........................................................................................................
.......................................................... 8 Nm (71 lb in.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations > 7X Crankshaft
Position Sensor (CKP)
Lower Rear Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations > 7X Crankshaft
Position Sensor (CKP) > Page 5091
Lower Front Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5094
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5095
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Information and Instructions > Page 5096
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Information and Instructions > Page 5097
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5098
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Information and Instructions > Page 5099
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5100
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Information and Instructions > Page 5101
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Information and Instructions > Page 5102
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Information and Instructions > Page 5116
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Information and Instructions > Page 5117
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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Information and Instructions > Page 5118
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5119
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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Information and Instructions > Page 5120
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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Information and Instructions > Page 5121
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5122
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5123
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5124
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5125
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Connector Views
7x Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
24x Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
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Information and Instructions > Page 5126
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation >
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 3X
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 3X
3X Reference Low
The PCM uses this signal, from the ignition control module to calculate engine speed and
crankshaft position over 1280 RPM. The PCM also uses the pulses on this circuit to initiate injector
pulses. If the PCM receives no pulses on this circuit, DTC P1374 will set and the PCM will use the
24X reference signal circuit for fuel and ignition control.
This is a ground circuit for the digital RPM counter inside the PCM, but the wire is connected to
engine ground only through the ignition control module. Although this circuit is electrically
connected to the PCM, it is not connected to ground at the PCM. The PCM compares voltage
pulses on the reference input circuits to pulses on this circuit, ignoring pulses that appear on both.
Refer to Electronic Ignition System for further information.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation >
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 3X > Page 5129
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 7X
Description
The 7x crankshaft position sensor is the other Hall-effect switch closer to the crankshaft. The
interrupter ring is a special wheel cast on the crankshaft that has seven machined slots. six of
which are equally spaced 60 degrees apart. The seventh slot is spaced 10 degrees from one of the
other slots. as the interrupter ring rotates with the crankshaft, the slots change the magnetic field.
this will cause the 7x the Hall-effect switch to ground the 3X signal voltage that is supplied by the
ignition control module. The ignition control module interprets the 7x on-off signals as an indication
of crankshaft position. The ignition control module must have the 7x signal to fire the correct
ignition coil.
Operation
The crankshaft position sensor provides a signal used by the ignition control module. The ignition
control module also uses the 7X crankshaft position sensor to generate 3X reference pulses which
the PCM uses to calculate RPM and crankshaft position Refer to Electronic Ignition System for
additional information.
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Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 3X > Page 5130
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 24X
24X Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The 24X crankshaft position sensor (1), secured in, an aluminum mounting bracket and bolted to
the front left side of the engine timing chain cover, is partially behind the crankshaft. A 3-wire
harness connector plugs into the sensor, connecting it to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
The 24X Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor is used to improve idle spark control at engine speeds
up to approximately 1250 RPM.
OPERATION
The 24X crankshaft position sensor contains one Hall-effect switch and magnet. The magnet and
Hall-effect switch are separated by an air gap. A Hall-effect switch reacts like a solid state switch,
grounding a low current signal voltage when a magnetic field is present. When the magnetic field is
shielded from the switch by a piece of steel placed in the air gap between the magnet and the
switch, the signal voltage is not grounded. If the piece of steel (called an interrupter) is repeatedly
moved in and out of the air gap, the signal voltage will appear to go ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF.
Compared to a conventional mechanical distributor, this ON-OFF signal is similar to the signal that
a set of breaker points in the distributor would generate as the distributor shaft turned and the
points opened and closed. In the case of the electronic ignition system, the piece of steel is the
concentric interrupter ring mounted to the rear of the crankshaft balancer. The interrupter ring has
blades and windows that, with crankshaft rotation, either block the magnetic field or allow it to close
the Hall-effect switch. The Hall-effect switch produces a signal called the CKP 24X because the
interrupter ring has 24 evenly spaced blades and windows. When a CKP 24X interrupter ring
window is between the magnet and Hall-effect switch, the magnetic field will cause the CKP 24X
Hall-effect switch to ground the CKP 24X signal voltage supplied from the PCM. The CKP 24X
portion of the crankshaft position sensor produces 24 ON-OFF pulses per crankshaft revolution.
The 24X signal allows the PCM to determine a more precise crankshaft position at lower RPM.
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Page 5131
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
The crankshaft position system variation compensating values are stored in the PCM non-volatile
memory after a learn procedure has been performed. If the actual crankshaft position system
variation is not within the crankshaft position system variation compensating values stored in the
PCM, DTC P0300 may set refer to DTC P0300 Engine Misfire Detected. See: Testing and
Inspection
The Crankshaft Position System Variation Learn Procedure should be performed if any of the
following conditions are true:
^ DTC P1336 is set.
^ The PCM has been replaced.
^ The PCM has been reprogrammed.
^ The engine has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft harmonic balancer has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft position sensor has been replaced.
Important: The scan tool crankshaft position system variation learn function will be inhibited if
engine coolant temperature is less than 70°C (156°F). Allow the engine to warm to at least 70°C
(156°F) before attempting the crankshaft position system variation learn procedure.
The scan tool crankshaft position system variation learn function will be inhibited if any powertrain
DTCs other than DTC P1336 are set before or during the crankshaft position system variation learn
procedure. Diagnose and repair any DTCs if set. The crankshaft position system variation learn
function will be inhibited if the PCM detects a malfunction involving the camshaft position signal
circuit, the 3X reference circuit, or the 24X reference circuit.
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the Cam signal, refer to DTC P0341 CMP Sensor Circuit
Performance. See: Testing and Inspection
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the 3X crank signal, refer to DTC P1374 3X Reference
Circuit. See: Testing and Inspection
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the 24X crank signal, refer to DTC P0336 24X Reference
Signal Circuit. See: Testing and Inspection
1. Set the parking brake. 2. Start the engine and allow engine coolant temperature to reach at least
70°C (158°F). 3. Turn OFF the ignition switch. 4. Select the crankshaft position variation learn
procedure from the scan tool special functions list. 5. Follow the instructions displayed on the scan
tool. If the procedure is terminated, refer to Important above for instructions. 6. Observe DTC status
for DTC P1336. 7. If the scan tool indicates that DTC P1336 ran and passed, the crankshaft
position system variation learn procedure is complete. If the scan tool
indicates DTC P1336 failed or not run, check for other DTCs. If no DTCs other than P1336 are set,
repeat the crankshaft position system variation learn procedure as necessary.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement (7X)
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement (7X)
7X Crank Shaft Position (CKP) Sensor
Removal Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. 3.
Remove the CKP electrical connector. 4. Remove the CKP fastener. 5. Remove the CKP sensor
from the Engine Block. 6. if the CKP sensor is going to be re-used inspect the sensor for the
following:
6.1. Inspect the CKP sensor for wear, cracks, or leakage. Replace the O-ring if necessary. 6.2.
Lubricate the new O-ring with clean engine oil before installing
Installation Procedure
1. Install the CKP sensor to the block. 2. Install the bolt to hold the CKP sensor to the block face.
Tighten ^
Tighten the bolt to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
3. Connect the electrical connector. 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement (7X) > Page 5134
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement (24X)
24X Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the serpentine drive belt from crankshaft
pulley. 3. Raise the vehicle on hoist. 4. Remove the crankshaft harmonic balancer retaining bolt. 5.
Remove the crankshaft harmonic balancer using special tool (J 24420-B) or equivalent. 6. Note the
routing of sensor harness before removal. 7. Remove the harness retaining clip with bolt (1). 8.
Remove the sensor electrical connector. 9. Remove the sensor bolts (2).
10. Remove the sensor.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the 24X Crankshaft Position Sensor with bolts (2) and route harness as noted during
removal. 2. Install the harness retaining clip with bolt (1).
Tighten Bolts to 10 Nm (8 lb. ft.).
3. Install the sensor electrical connector. 4. Install the balancer on the crankshaft using special tool
(J 29113) or equivalent. 5. Apply thread sealer GM #1052080 or equivalent to threads of the
crankshaft harmonic balancer bolt.
Tighten Bolt to 150 Nm (110 lb. ft.).
6. Lower vehicle. 7. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > EGR Valve Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation
EGR Valve Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Linear EGR Valve
DESCRIPTION
The EGR pintle position sensor is an integral part of the EGR valve assembly. This sensor can not
be serviced separately from the EGR valve.
The PCM monitors the EGR valve pintle position input to ensure that the valve responds properly
to commands from the PCM and to detect a fault if the pintle position sensor and control circuits
are open or shorted. If the PCM detects a pintle position signal voltage outside the normal range of
the pintle position sensor, or a signal voltage that is not within a tolerance considered acceptable
for proper EGR system operation, the PCM will set DTC P1406.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Level Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level
Sensor - Replacement Procedure
Fuel Level Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-83-07
Date: March, 1998
Subject: Fuel Level Sensor Replacement Procedure
Models: 1997-98 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Listed in Application Chart)
INFORMATION
This bulletin is being issued to clarify that, when fuel gauge diagnosis per the Service Manual
indicates the cause to be the fuel level sensor, complete fuel sender assembly replacement is NOT
required.
Available fuel level sensor service packages are indicated in the application charts and should be
installed following applicable Service Manual procedures and those provided in the service
packages.
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Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 5142
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Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 5143
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Level Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level
Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 5144
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Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 5145
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Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 5146
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Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 5147
Parts Information
See the charts for listed for applicable part numbers. Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the tables.
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Fuel Level Sensor: Description and Operation
The fuel sensor is attached to the modular fuel sender assembly. As the position of the float varies
with the fuel level, the rheostat produces a variable resistance between the fuel gage and ground.
The fuel gage converts this variable resistance into the fuel level reading display on the instrument
panel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams
Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor
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Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation
Fuel Filter
Description
The Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor is mounted on top of the modular fuel sender. The sensor
measures the difference between the fuel vapor pressure (or vacuum) in the fuel tank and the
outside air pressure. A three wire electrical harness connects it to the Powertrain Control Module
(PCM).
Operation
The PCM supplies a 5 volt reference signal and ground to the sensor. The sensor will return a
voltage between 0.1 volts and 4.9 volts back to the PCM depending on the fuel vapor pressure in
the fuel tank. When the fuel pressure in the fuel tank is equal to the outside air pressure, such as
when the fuel cap is removed, the output voltage will be 1.3 volts to 1.7 volts.
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Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Relieve the system fuel pressure. Refer to Fuel Pressure Release Procedure. 2. Drain fuel tank.
Refer to Draining Fuel Tank. 3. Remove the fuel tank. Refer to Fuel Tank. 4. Remove the electrical
connector from the fuel tank vapor pressure sensor. 5. Remove the fuel tank vapor pressure
sensor from modular fuel sender
Installation Procedure
1. Install the new fuel tank vapor pressure sensor to modular fuel sender. 2. Install the electrical
connector to fuel tank vapor pressure sensor 3. Install the fuel tank. Refer to Fuel Tank. 4. Refill
tank. 5. Install the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature Sensor > Component Information > Specifications > Electrical
Specifications
Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Electrical Specifications
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
100°C (212°F) .....................................................................................................................................
......................................................... 177 Ohms 90°C (194°F) ............................................................
................................................................................................................................... 241 Ohms 80°C
(176°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 332 Ohms 70°C (158°F) ......................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 467 Ohms 60°C
(140°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 667 Ohms 50°C (122°F) ......................................................................
......................................................................................................................... 973 Ohms 40°C
(104°F) ................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 1,459 Ohms 30°C (86°F) ........................................................................
...................................................................................................................... 2,238 Ohms 20°C
(68°F) ..................................................................................................................................................
............................................ 3,520 Ohms 10°C (50°F) ........................................................................
...................................................................................................................... 5,670 Ohms 0°C (32°F)
..............................................................................................................................................................
................................. 9,420 Ohms -10°C (14°F) ..................................................................................
.......................................................................................................... 16,180 Ohms -20°C (-4°F) .......
..............................................................................................................................................................
........................ 28,680 Ohms -30°C (-22°F) .......................................................................................
.................................................................................................... 52,700 Ohms -40°C (-40°F) ...........
..............................................................................................................................................................
................ 100,700 Ohms
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Specifications > Page 5158
Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Mechanical Specifications Torque Valve
Torque Valve
Induction Air Sensor 44 in.lb
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Information and Instructions
Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
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Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Electrical Diagrams
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Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Description and Operation
Operation
The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor is a thermistor which changes value based on the
temperature of air entering the engine. Low temperature produces a high resistance (100,000
ohms at -40°C (-40°F), while high temperature causes low resistance (70 ohms at 130°C (266°F).
The PCM supplies a 5 volt signal to the sensor through a resistor in the PCM and measures the
voltage. The voltage will be high when the incoming air is cold, and low when the air is hot. By
measuring the voltage, the PCM calculates the incoming air temperature. The IAT sensor signal is
used to adjust spark timing according to incoming air density.
The scan tool displays temperature of the air entering the engine, which should read close to
ambient air temperature when the engine is cold, and rise as the underhood temperature
increases. If the engine has not been run for several hours (overnight) the IAT sensor temperature
and engine coolant temperature should read close to each other. A failure in the IAT sensor circuit
should set DTC P0112 or DTC P0113.
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Intake Air Temperature Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove the electrical connector. 2. Carefully grasp the sensor and with a twisting and pulling
motion, remove the IAT sensor from air intake duct.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the IAT Sensor into the hole. 2. Connect the electrical connector to the IAT Sensor.
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Front Of Engine
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Knock Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Knock Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Instructions > Page 5219
Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Knock Sensor
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Knock Sensor: Description and Operation
Description
Varying octane levels in today's gasoline may cause detonation in some engines. Detonation is
caused by an uncontrolled explosion (burn) in the combustion chamber. This uncontrolled
explosion could produce a flame front opposite that of the normal flame front produced by the spark
plug. The rattling sound normally associated with detonation is the result of two or more opposing
pressures (flame fronts) colliding within the combustion chamber. Though light detonation is
sometimes considered normal, heavy detonation could result in engine damage.
To control spark knock, a Knock Sensor (KS) system is used. This system is designed to retard
spark timing to reduce spark knock in the engine. This allows the engine to use maximum spark
advance to improve driveability and fuel economy.
^ KS module.
^ Knock sensor.
Operation
The knock sensor detects abnormal vibration (spark knocking) in the engine. The sensor is
mounted in the engine block near the cylinders. The sensors produce an AC output voltage which
increases with the severity of the knock. This signal voltage is input to the PCM. The PCM then
adjusts the Ignition Control (IC) timing to reduce spark knock.
The knock sensor is used to detect engine detonation, allowing the PCM to retard Ignition Control
(IC) spark timing based on the KS signal being received. The knock sensor produces an AC signal
which rides on a 5 volts DC signal supplied by the PCM. The signal amplitude and frequency is
dependent upon the amount of knock being experienced.
The PCM determines whether knock is occurring by comparing the signal level on the KS circuit
with the voltage level on the noise channel. The noise channel allows the PCM to reject any false
knock signal by indicating the amount of normal engine mechanical noise present. Normal engine
noise varies depending on engine speed and load. If the voltage level on the KS noise channel
circuit is below the range considered normal, DTC P0327 will set, indicating a fault in the KS circuit
or one of the knock sensors. If the PCM determines that an abnormal minimum or maximum noise
level is being experienced, a DTC P0326 will set.
The PCM contains a replaceable Knock Sensor (KS) module. The KS module contains the circuitry
that allows the PCM to utilize the KS signal and diagnose the KS sensors and circuitry. If the KS
module is missing or faulty causing a continuous knock condition to be indicated, the PCM will set
DTC P0325.
The scan tool has four data displays available for diagnosing the KS system. The 4 displays are
described as follows:
^ KS Activity is used to monitor the input signal from the knock sensor. This counter will display
Yes while knock is being detected.
^ Knock Retard is the indication of how much the PCM is retarding the spark. The PCM will retard
spark in response to the Knock signal or the Traction Control system Desired Torque signal.
^ KS Noise Channel indicates the current voltage level being monitored on the noise channel.
DTCs P0325, P0326, and P0327 are designed to diagnose the KS module, the knock sensors, and
related wiring, so problems encountered with the KS system should set a DTC. However, if no DTC
was set but the KS system is suspect because detonation was the customer's complaint, refer to
Detonation/Spark Knock in Symptoms. See: Testing and Inspection
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Knock Sensor: Testing and Inspection
The PCM contains a replaceable Knock Sensor (KS) module. The KS module contains the circuitry
that allows the PCM to utilize the KS signal and diagnose the KS sensors and circuitry. If the KS
module is missing or faulty causing a continuous knock condition to be indicated, the PCM will set
DTC P0325.
The scan tool has four data displays available for diagnosing the KS system. The 4 displays are
described as follows:
^ KS Activity is used to monitor the input signal from the knock sensor. This counter will display
Yes while knock is being detected.
^ Knock Retard is the indication of how much the PCM is retarding the spark. The PCM will retard
spark in response to the Knock signal or the Traction Control system Desired Torque signal.
^ KS Noise Channel indicates the current voltage level being monitored on the noise channel.
DTCs P0325, P0326, and P0327 are designed to diagnose the KS module, the knock sensors, and
related wiring, so problems encountered with the KS system should set a DTC. However, if no DTC
was set but the KS system is suspect because detonation was the customer's complaint, refer to
Detonation/Spark Knock in Symptoms. See: Testing and Inspection
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Knock Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise the vehicle. 3. Remove the knock sensor wiring
harness connector from knock sensor. 4. Remove the knock sensor from engine block.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
NOTE: Do Not apply thread sealant to sensor threads. The sensor is coated at factory and applying
additional sealant will affect the sensors ability to detect detonation.
1. Install the knock sensor into engine block. 2. Install the knock sensor wiring harness connector
to the knock sensor. 3. Lower the vehicle. 4. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
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Information and Instructions
Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Information and Instructions > Page 5265
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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Information and Instructions > Page 5266
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5267
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5270
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Information and Instructions > Page 5271
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5272
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5273
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
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Information and Instructions > Page 5274
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Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Description and Operation
MAP Sensor Service
Description
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor responds to changes in intake manifold pressure
(vacuum). The MAP sensor signal voltage to the PCM varies from below 2 volts at idle (high
vacuum) to above 4 volts with the key ON, engine not running or at wide-open throttle (low
vacuum).
Operation
The MAP sensor is used to determine manifold pressure changes while the linear EGR flow test
diagnostic is being run (refer to DTC P0401 in DTC Tables), to determine engine vacuum level for
other diagnostics and to determine barometric pressure (BARO). See: Testing and Inspection
If the PCM detects a voltage that is lower than the possible range of the MAP sensor, DTC P0107
will be set. A signal voltage higher than the possible range of the sensor will set DTC P0108. An
intermittent low or high voltage will set DTC P1107 or P1106 respectively.
The PCM can also detect a shifted MAP sensor. The PCM compares the MAP sensor signal to a
calculated MAP based on throttle position and various engine load factors. If the PCM detects a
MAP signal that varies excessively above or below the calculated value, DTC P0106 will set.
The PCM updates the MAP sensor reading at each 3X reference pulse. If the 3X reference pulse is
lost the PCM will only update the MAP sensor once per ignition cycle and will retain that value until
the next ignition cycle. Depending on the retained MAP sensor value, the PCM will set the
appropriate high voltage DTC or low voltage DTC.
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Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor: Service and Repair
MAP Sensor Service
Removal Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. The Fuel Injector harness is attached to the MAP
Sensor bracket. Disconnect the Fuel Injector Harness from the MAP Sensor. 3. Remove the
bolt/screws (2). 4. Remove the electrical connector. 5. Remove the inlet vacuum hose. 6. Remove
the MAP sensor from the bracket.
Installation Procedure
1. Installation the inlet vacuum hose. 2. Connect the electrical connector. 3. Position the MAP
sensor to bracket and drive bolt/screws (2) securely seated and not stripped. 4. Connect the Fuel
Injector harness to the MAP Sensor bracket. 5. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Oil Level Sensor For ECM > Component Information > Specifications
Oil Level Sensor For ECM: Specifications
Engine Oil Level Switch .......................................................................................................................
............................................. 17-27 Nm (13-20 lb ft)
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Oil Level Sensor For ECM: Description and Operation
Engine Oil Level Sensor
The PCM monitors the Engine Oil Level Sensor signal at start-up to determine if engine oil level is
OK. If the PCM determines that a low oil level condition exists, the PCM will illuminate the Low Oil
Level indicator lamp.
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Oil Level Sensor For ECM: Service and Repair
Engine Oil Level Sensor
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle. 2. Drain the engine oil. 3. Disconnect the electrical connector from Engine Oil
Level Switch 4. Remove the Engine Oil Level Switch from the oil pan.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the Engine Oil Level Switch.
Tighten Switch to 17-27 Nm (13-20 lb. ft.).
2. Lower the vehicle. 3. Add the engine oil to the correct level.
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Front Of Engine
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Engine Oil Pressure Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Oxygen
Sensor - Locations in Various Exhaust Systems
Oxygen Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Oxygen Sensor - Locations in Various Exhaust
Systems
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 67-65-40
Date: March, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Pictorial of Oxygen Sensor Designations in Various Exhaust Systems Configurations
Models: 1996-97 Passenger Cars, Geos and Trucks
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Sensor - Locations in Various Exhaust Systems > Page 5290
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Oxygen
Sensor - Locations in Various Exhaust Systems > Page 5291
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Oxygen
Sensor - Locations in Various Exhaust Systems > Page 5292
Pictorials of the designation of oxygen sensors in General Motors vehicles.
There has been some confusion relative to OBD II oxygen sensor designation. The intent of this
bulletin is to eliminate misdiagnosis of those oxygen sensors due to misidentification. When using
Section 6E of the Service Manual, this chart can help locate the appropriate bank and sensor for
the diagnostic.
For "V" engines; BANK 1 is always on the side of the engine with the number 1 cylinder (odd
cylinders), and BANK 2 is always on the side of the engine where the number 2 cylinder (even
cylinders) is located.
Just a reminder, the OBD II P-codes, technician observations and customer comments are all to be
recorded on the repair order in accordance with article 1.6.2G of the GM Service Policies and
Procedures Manual.
Use the approved labor operation for the sensors replaced. J 6372 is used for engine out sensors.
Labor Operation J 6380 is for the pre-sensor (the sensor just in front of the catalytic converter) and
the post sensor (the sensor behind the catalytic converter).
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Oxygen Sensor: Specifications
Heated Oxygen Sensor .......................................................................................................................
............................................... 42 +/- 4 Nm (31 lb. ft.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Technical Service Bulletin
Update
Oxygen Sensor: Locations Technical Service Bulletin Update
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 67-65-40
Date: March, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Pictorial of Oxygen Sensor Designations in Various Exhaust Systems Configurations
Models: 1996-97 Passenger Cars, Geos and Trucks
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Update > Page 5296
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Update > Page 5297
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Technical Service Bulletin
Update > Page 5298
Pictorials of the designation of oxygen sensors in General Motors vehicles.
There has been some confusion relative to OBD II oxygen sensor designation. The intent of this
bulletin is to eliminate misdiagnosis of those oxygen sensors due to mis-identification. When using
Section 6E of the Service Manual, this chart can help locate the appropriate bank and sensor for
the diagnostic.
For "V" engines; BANK 1 is always on the side of the engine with the number 1 cylinder (odd
cylinders), and BANK 2 is always on the side of the engine where the number 2 cylinder (even
cylinders) is located.
Just a reminder, the OBD II P-codes, technician observations and customer comments are all to be
recorded on the repair order in accordance with article 1.6.2G of the GM Service Policies and
Procedures Manual.
Use the approved labor operation for the sensors replaced. J 6372 is used for engine out sensors.
Labor Operation J 6380 is for the pre-sensor (the sensor just in front of the catalytic converter) and
the post sensor (the sensor behind the catalytic converter).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Update > Page 5299
Center Of Passenger Compartment, Under Vehicle
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Update > Page 5300
Top Rear Of Engine
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Instructions
Oxygen Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Instructions > Page 5304
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Instructions > Page 5305
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Instructions > Page 5306
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Oxygen Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Instructions > Page 5322
Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Instructions > Page 5323
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Instructions > Page 5325
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Instructions > Page 5326
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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Instructions > Page 5327
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Instructions > Page 5328
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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Instructions > Page 5329
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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Instructions > Page 5330
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Instructions > Page 5331
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Instructions > Page 5332
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Instructions > Page 5333
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5334
Oxygen Sensor: Connector Views
Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 2)
Pre Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 1)
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Instructions > Page 5335
Oxygen Sensor: Electrical Diagrams
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Fuel Control
Oxygen Sensors
Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Fuel Control Oxygen Sensors
Description
The Precatalyst Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 1) is mounted in the exhaust manifold where it can
monitor the oxygen content of the exhaust gas stream. The oxygen present in the exhaust gas
reacts with the sensor to produce a voltage output. This voltage should constantly fluctuate from
approximately 100mV (high oxygen content - lean mixture) to 900mV (low oxygen content - rich
mixture). The heated oxygen sensor voltage can be monitored with a scan tool. By monitoring the
voltage output of the oxygen sensor, the PCM calculates what fuel mixture command to give to the
injectors (lean mixture-low HO2S voltage = rich command, rich mixture-high HO2S voltage = lean
command).
Operation
The HO2S 1 circuit, if open, should set a DTC P0134 and the scan tool will display a constant
voltage between 400 - 500mV. A constant voltage below 300mV in the sensor circuit (circuit
grounded) should set DTC P0131, while a constant voltage above 800mV in the circuit should set
DTC P0132. A fault in the HO2S 1 heater circuit should cause DTC P0135 to set. The PCM can
also detect HO2S response problems. If the response time of an HO2S is determined to be too
slow, the PCM will store a DTC that indicates degraded HO2S performance.
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Oxygen Sensors > Page 5338
Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Heated Oxygen Sensor 2 (HO2S 2) Catalyst Monitor
Function
The catalyst monitor sensors operate the same as the fuel control sensors. Although the HO2S 2
sensors' main function is catalyst monitoring, it also plays a limited role in fuel control. If the sensor
output indicates a voltage either above or below the 450 millivolt bias voltage for an extended
period of time, the PCM will make a slight adjustment to fuel trim to ensure that fuel delivery is
correct for catalyst monitoring.
A problem with the HO2S 2 signal circuit should set DTC P0137, P0138 or P0140, depending on
the specific condition. A fault in the heated oxygen sensor heater element or its ignition feed or
ground will result in slower oxygen sensor response. This may cause erroneous Catalyst monitor
diagnostic results. A fault in the HO2S 2 heater circuit should cause DTC P0141 to set.
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Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
Caution: The heated oxygen sensor may be difficult to remove when engine temperature is below
48°C (120°F). Excessive force may damage threads in exhaust manifold or exhaust pipe.
1. If HO2S 2 is being replaced, raise the vehicle. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector.
Important: A special anti-seize compound is used on the heated oxygen sensor threads The
compound consists of graphite suspended in fluid and glass beads. The graphite will burn away,
but the glass beads will remain, making the sensor easier to remove. New or service sensors will
already have the compound applied to the threads. If a sensor is removed from an engine and if for
any reason is to be reinstalled, the threads must have anti-seize compound applied before
reinstallation.
3. Carefully back out the heated oxygen sensor.
Installation Procedure
1. Coat the threads of heated oxygen sensor/catalyst monitor with anti-seize compound PIN
5613695, or equivalent if necessary. 2. Install the Heated Oxygen Sensor.
Tighten ^
Tighten the HO2S 1 (Pre-catalytic converter) to 42 +/- 4 N.m (31 lb ft).
^ Tighten the HO2S 2 (Post-catalytic converter) to 42 +/- 4 N.m (31 lb ft).
3. Connect the electrical connector.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Throttle Position Sensor: Specifications
Throttle position sensor screws [1]
............................................................................................................................................................
2.0 Nm (18 lb in.)
1. Install the two TP sensor attaching screws, using a thread-locking compound on the screws.
Loctite® 262, GM Part No. 1052624, or equivalent should be used.
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Top Left Side Of Engine
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions
Throttle Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Throttle Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
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Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The Throttle Position (TP) sensor is a potentiometer connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle
body. By monitoring the voltage on the signal line, the PCM calculates throttle position. As the
throttle valve angle is changed (accelerator pedal moved), the TP sensor signal also changes. At a
closed throttle position, the output of the TP sensor is low. As the throttle valve opens the TP
sensor voltage increases so that at Wide Open Throttle (WOT), the TP sensor voltage should be
above 4 volts. The PCM calculates fuel delivery based on throttle valve angle (driver demand).
A broken or loose TP sensor may cause intermittent bursts of fuel from an injector and unstable
idle because the PCM thinks the throttle is moving. A hard failure in the TP sensor 5 volts reference
or signal circuits should set either a DTC P0122 or DTC P0123, and P1350. A hard failure with the
TP sensor ground circuit may set DTCs P0123 and P0117. Once a DTC is set, the PCM will use an
artificial default value based on engine RPM and mass air flow for throttle position and some
vehicle performance will return. A high idle may result when either DTC P0122 or DTC P0123 is
set.
The PCM can detect intermittent TP sensor faults. DTC P1121 or DTC P1122 will set if an
intermittent high or low circuit failure is being detected. The PCM can also detect a shifted TP
sensor. The PCM monitors throttle position and compares the actual TP sensor reading to a
predicted TP value calculated from engine speed. If the PCM detects an out of range condition,
DTC P0121 will be set.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5379
Throttle Position Sensor: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the TP sensor electrical connector. 2. Remove the 2 TP sensor attaching screws. 3.
Remove the TP sensor.
Installation Procedure
1. With the throttle valve in the normal closed idle position, install the TP sensor on the throttle
body assembly. 2. Install the 2 TP sensor attaching screws, using a thread-locking compound on
the screws. Loctite 262, GM Part No. 1052624, or equivalent should
be used.
Tighten ^
Tighten the TP sensor attaching screws to 2.0 Nm (18 lb in).
3. Install the TP sensor electrical connector.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift
Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift
Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 5388
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift
Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 5389
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 5395
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 5396
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 5397
Valid Input Combinations
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > C1
Transaxle Range Switch: C1
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 5400
Transaxle Range Switch: C2
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page
5401
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Description and Operation
Valid Input Combinations
DESCRIPTION
The Transaxle Range Switch is part of the Transaxle Park/Neutral Position (PNP) switch mounted
on the transaxle manual shaft. The 4 inputs from the transaxle range switch indicate to the PCM
which position is selected by the Transaxle selector lever. This information is used for transmission
shift control, ignition timing, EVAP canister purge, EGR and Idle Air Control (IAC) valve operation.
The combination of the four transaxle range input states determine the PCM commanded shift
pattern.
The input voltage level at the PCM is high (B+) when the transaxle range switch is open and low
when the switch is closed to ground. The state of each input is represented on the scan tool as
X=high voltage level, O=low voltage level. The four parameters represent transaxle range switch
Parity, A, B, and C inputs respectively.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page
5402
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page
5403
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page
5404
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift linkage. 3. Electrical connector. 4. Mounting bolts. 5. Switch
assembly.
REPLACEMENT - USING OLD SWITCH
Install Or Connect 1. Place shift shaft in NEUTRAL. 2. Align flats of shift shaft with switch. 3.
Mounting bolts, loosely. 4. Insert J 41545 and rotate switch until tool drops into position.
Tighten Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Remove Or Disconnect 1. J 41545.
IMPORTANT: After switch adjustment, verify that engine will only start in PARK or NEUTRAL. If engine will start
in any other position, readjust switch.
REPLACEMENT - USING NEW SWITCH
Install Or Connect 1. Place shift shaft in NEUTRAL. 2. Align flats of shift shaft to flats in switch and
install switch assembly. 3. Mounting bolts. 4. Insert tool J 41545 and rotate switch until tool drops
into position.
Tighten Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Important: After switch installation verify that engine will only start in PARK or NEUTRAL. If engine will start in
any other position, readjust switch using Replacement - Using Old Switch procedure.
Adjust 1. Place transaxle control shifter assembly in the NEUTRAL notch in detent plate. 2. Loosen
switch attaching bolts. 3. Rotate switch on shifter assembly to align J 41545.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page
5405
Tighten -
Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
4. Remove J 41545.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS
Circuits
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 73-81-32
Date: May, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 8A - Electrical Diagnosis - New Diagnostic Tables for Vehicle Speed Sensor
Signal Circuit
Models: 1996-97
Buick Skylark
1996 Chevrolet Beretta, Corsica
1996-97 Chevrolet Cavalier
1997 Chevrolet Malibu
1996-97 Oldsmobile Achieva
1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
1996-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire
This bulletin is being issued to add new diagnostic tables to Section 8A of the Service Manual.
The tables included describe the diagnostic procedures for the diagnosis of the Vehicle Speed
Sensor signal circuit from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to auxiliary devices. Please insert
the included diagnostic tables into the Electrical Diagnosis Instrument Cluster section (Cell 80 J/L/N cars; Cell 81 L/N cars) of the Service Manual.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5410
8A - 1 - 1 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5411
8A - 1 - 2 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5412
8A - 1 - 3 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5413
8A - 1 - 4 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5414
8A - 1 - 5 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5415
8A - 1 - 6 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5416
8A - 1 - 7 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5417
8A - 1 - 8 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5418
8A - 1 - 9 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5419
8A - 1 - 10 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5420
8A - 1 - 11 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5421
8A - 1 - 12 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5422
8A - 1 - 13 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5423
8A - 1 - 14 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5424
8A - 1 - 15 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5425
8A - 1 - 16 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5426
8A - 1 - 17 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5427
8A - 1 - 18 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5428
8A - 1 - 19 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5429
8A - 1 - 20 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5430
8A - 1 - 21 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5431
8A - 1 - 22 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5432
8A - 1 - 23 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5433
8A - 1 - 24 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5434
8A - 1 - 25 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5435
8A - 1 - 26 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5436
8A - 1 - 27 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5437
8A - 1 - 28 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page
5438
Rear Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5441
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Instructions > Page 5460
Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Instructions > Page 5461
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Instructions > Page 5464
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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Instructions > Page 5465
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Instructions > Page 5466
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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Instructions > Page 5467
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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Instructions > Page 5468
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Instructions > Page 5469
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Instructions > Page 5470
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Instructions > Page 5471
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Instructions > Page 5472
Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
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Instructions > Page 5473
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Description and Operation
The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) sends a pulsing voltage signal to the PCM which the PCM
convents to miles per hour. This sensor mainly controls the operation of the TCC, shift solenoids,
and cruise control systems. There are several different types of vehicle speed sensors. Refer to
Automatic Transmission/Transaxle for further information.
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise and support vehicle. 2. Electrical connector. 3. Bolt holding speed sensor. 4. Vehicle
speed sensor from case extension. 5. O-ring from vehicle speed sensor.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. O-ring onto vehicle speed sensor. 2. Vehicle speed sensor into case extension. 3. Bolt.
Tighten Bolt to 11 Nm (97 inch lbs.).
4. Electrical connector. 5. Lower vehicle.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Specifications
Throttle Position Sensor: Specifications
Throttle position sensor screws [1]
............................................................................................................................................................
2.0 Nm (18 lb in.)
1. Install the two TP sensor attaching screws, using a thread-locking compound on the screws.
Loctite® 262, GM Part No. 1052624, or equivalent should be used.
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Component Information > Specifications > Page 5479
Top Left Side Of Engine
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Throttle Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Throttle Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
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Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The Throttle Position (TP) sensor is a potentiometer connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle
body. By monitoring the voltage on the signal line, the PCM calculates throttle position. As the
throttle valve angle is changed (accelerator pedal moved), the TP sensor signal also changes. At a
closed throttle position, the output of the TP sensor is low. As the throttle valve opens the TP
sensor voltage increases so that at Wide Open Throttle (WOT), the TP sensor voltage should be
above 4 volts. The PCM calculates fuel delivery based on throttle valve angle (driver demand).
A broken or loose TP sensor may cause intermittent bursts of fuel from an injector and unstable
idle because the PCM thinks the throttle is moving. A hard failure in the TP sensor 5 volts reference
or signal circuits should set either a DTC P0122 or DTC P0123, and P1350. A hard failure with the
TP sensor ground circuit may set DTCs P0123 and P0117. Once a DTC is set, the PCM will use an
artificial default value based on engine RPM and mass air flow for throttle position and some
vehicle performance will return. A high idle may result when either DTC P0122 or DTC P0123 is
set.
The PCM can detect intermittent TP sensor faults. DTC P1121 or DTC P1122 will set if an
intermittent high or low circuit failure is being detected. The PCM can also detect a shifted TP
sensor. The PCM monitors throttle position and compares the actual TP sensor reading to a
predicted TP value calculated from engine speed. If the PCM detects an out of range condition,
DTC P0121 will be set.
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Throttle Position Sensor: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the TP sensor electrical connector. 2. Remove the 2 TP sensor attaching screws. 3.
Remove the TP sensor.
Installation Procedure
1. With the throttle valve in the normal closed idle position, install the TP sensor on the throttle
body assembly. 2. Install the 2 TP sensor attaching screws, using a thread-locking compound on
the screws. Loctite 262, GM Part No. 1052624, or equivalent should
be used.
Tighten ^
Tighten the TP sensor attaching screws to 2.0 Nm (18 lb in).
3. Install the TP sensor electrical connector.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov >
03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov >
03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 5524
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov >
03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 5525
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 5531
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 5532
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Transmission
Position Switch/Sensor: > 73-81-52 > Nov > 97 > Lights - Park Lamps Stay ON With Headlamp Switch OFF
Combination Switch: All Technical Service Bulletins Lights - Park Lamps Stay ON With Headlamp
Switch OFF
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 73-81-52
Date: November, 1997
Subject: Park Lamps Stay On with Headlamp Switch in "OFF" Position (Replace Multifunction
Switch)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
Condition Some owners may comment on one of the following:
1. The radio or cluster illumination dims with actuation of the turn signal lever.
2. The park lamps will not turn off.
3. The park lamps come on by themselves.
4. The battery goes dead.
Cause The park lamp contact may not cross the switch gap, resulting in park lamps remaining on.
Correction To verity this condition, the concern can usually be duplicated by turning the headlamp
switch off very slowly with light pressure. Then, actuate the turn signal for a right turn and the park
lamps may come on.
If the concern can not be duplicated in this manner, a visual check can be done to see if the
contact crosses the gap or stops on or near the gap. Looking at the back of the switch body, follow
the park lamp circuit terminals 31 and 32 down to the switch grid. The park lamp contact can be
seen through the gap between these two sections of the switch grid. If the contact dimple does not
cross the gap but rests in the gap when the switch is turned to the "OFF" position, the described
condition exists. If the condition exists, replace the multifunction switch, P/N 22602262. Refer to
"Multifunction Switch" in the Service Manual.
Parts Information The supplier implemented an improved sorting process in April, 1997 while tool
modifications were being made. The date code is located on the top surface of the switch body lust
above the headlamp connector. The supplier Z code (Z0191) is stamped on the part just above the
date code. The date code begins with a "6" or "7" for the year followed by the Julian date which is
followed by two additional digits indicating tester information. Date codes prior to 7093XX are
suspect.
P/N Description
22602262 Multifunction Switch
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
N2355
Use published labor operation time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5543
Valid Input Combinations
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > C1
Transaxle Range Switch: C1
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 5546
Transaxle Range Switch: C2
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5547
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Description and Operation
Valid Input Combinations
DESCRIPTION
The Transaxle Range Switch is part of the Transaxle Park/Neutral Position (PNP) switch mounted
on the transaxle manual shaft. The 4 inputs from the transaxle range switch indicate to the PCM
which position is selected by the Transaxle selector lever. This information is used for transmission
shift control, ignition timing, EVAP canister purge, EGR and Idle Air Control (IAC) valve operation.
The combination of the four transaxle range input states determine the PCM commanded shift
pattern.
The input voltage level at the PCM is high (B+) when the transaxle range switch is open and low
when the switch is closed to ground. The state of each input is represented on the scan tool as
X=high voltage level, O=low voltage level. The four parameters represent transaxle range switch
Parity, A, B, and C inputs respectively.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5548
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5549
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5550
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift linkage. 3. Electrical connector. 4. Mounting bolts. 5. Switch
assembly.
REPLACEMENT - USING OLD SWITCH
Install Or Connect 1. Place shift shaft in NEUTRAL. 2. Align flats of shift shaft with switch. 3.
Mounting bolts, loosely. 4. Insert J 41545 and rotate switch until tool drops into position.
Tighten Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Remove Or Disconnect 1. J 41545.
IMPORTANT: After switch adjustment, verify that engine will only start in PARK or NEUTRAL. If engine will start
in any other position, readjust switch.
REPLACEMENT - USING NEW SWITCH
Install Or Connect 1. Place shift shaft in NEUTRAL. 2. Align flats of shift shaft to flats in switch and
install switch assembly. 3. Mounting bolts. 4. Insert tool J 41545 and rotate switch until tool drops
into position.
Tighten Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Important: After switch installation verify that engine will only start in PARK or NEUTRAL. If engine will start in
any other position, readjust switch using Replacement - Using Old Switch procedure.
Adjust 1. Place transaxle control shifter assembly in the NEUTRAL notch in detent plate. 2. Loosen
switch attaching bolts. 3. Rotate switch on shifter assembly to align J 41545.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5551
Tighten Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
4. Remove J 41545.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS
Circuits
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 73-81-32
Date: May, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 8A - Electrical Diagnosis - New Diagnostic Tables for Vehicle Speed Sensor
Signal Circuit
Models: 1996-97
Buick Skylark
1996 Chevrolet Beretta, Corsica
1996-97 Chevrolet Cavalier
1997 Chevrolet Malibu
1996-97 Oldsmobile Achieva
1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
1996-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire
This bulletin is being issued to add new diagnostic tables to Section 8A of the Service Manual.
The tables included describe the diagnostic procedures for the diagnosis of the Vehicle Speed
Sensor signal circuit from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to auxiliary devices. Please insert
the included diagnostic tables into the Electrical Diagnosis Instrument Cluster section (Cell 80 J/L/N cars; Cell 81 L/N cars) of the Service Manual.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5556
8A - 1 - 1 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5557
8A - 1 - 2 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5558
8A - 1 - 3 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5559
8A - 1 - 4 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5560
8A - 1 - 5 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5561
8A - 1 - 6 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5562
8A - 1 - 7 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5563
8A - 1 - 8 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5564
8A - 1 - 9 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5565
8A - 1 - 10 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5566
8A - 1 - 11 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5567
8A - 1 - 12 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5568
8A - 1 - 13 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5569
8A - 1 - 14 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5570
8A - 1 - 15 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5571
8A - 1 - 16 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5572
8A - 1 - 17 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5573
8A - 1 - 18 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5574
8A - 1 - 19 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5575
8A - 1 - 20 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5576
8A - 1 - 21 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5577
8A - 1 - 22 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5578
8A - 1 - 23 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5579
8A - 1 - 24 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5580
8A - 1 - 25 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5581
8A - 1 - 26 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5582
8A - 1 - 27 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Instruments - New Diagnostic Tables For VSS Circuits > Page 5583
8A - 1 - 28 ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5584
Rear Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5587
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5588
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5589
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5590
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5606
Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5607
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5608
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5609
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5610
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5611
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5612
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5613
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5614
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5615
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5616
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5617
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5618
Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5619
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5620
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Description and Operation
The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) sends a pulsing voltage signal to the PCM which the PCM
convents to miles per hour. This sensor mainly controls the operation of the TCC, shift solenoids,
and cruise control systems. There are several different types of vehicle speed sensors. Refer to
Automatic Transmission/Transaxle for further information.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5621
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise and support vehicle. 2. Electrical connector. 3. Bolt holding speed sensor. 4. Vehicle
speed sensor from case extension. 5. O-ring from vehicle speed sensor.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. O-ring onto vehicle speed sensor. 2. Vehicle speed sensor into case extension. 3. Bolt.
Tighten Bolt to 11 Nm (97 inch lbs.).
4. Electrical connector. 5. Lower vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Voltage Signal > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Cruise Control Status Signal
Voltage Signal: Description and Operation Cruise Control Status Signal
Purpose
The cruise control system is a speed control system that maintains a desired vehicle speed under
normal driving conditions. The cruise control system has the ability to cruise, coast, resume speed,
accelerate, arid tap-up and tap-down vehicle speed.
The main parts of the cruise control system are the cruise control switches, the cruise control
module assembly, the vehicle speed sensor, the cruise control release, the stop lamp switch
assemblies, and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
Operation
The operation of the cruise control module is controlled by the cruise control switches which are
located on the cruise control actuator lever assembly. All of the cruise control functions are
completed through this assembly.
The cruise control release and the stop lamp switch assemblies are provided to disengage the
cruise control system. When the brake pedal is depressed, the cruise control system is electrically
disabled. The cruise control module will remember what the cruise speed was set to prior to
disengaging. After reaching the enabling criteria for cruise operation, depressing the resume switch
will allow the vehicle to return to the previously set vehicle speed. The switch assemblies are
mounted on the brake pedal bracket assembly.
The scan tool displays if cruise control is being used. When cruise control is activated, the cruise
control module sends a ground signal to the PCM indicating that cruise module is in control of
throttle controls. The PCM uses this input to vary transmission controls as needed.
Cruise Control Module Assembly
The cruise control module assembly is mounted on the engine compartment fire wall. The cruise
control system uses the cruise centre module assembly in order to obtain the desired vehicle
speed. Two important components in the module assembly help achieve the desired vehicle speed;
an electronic control module and an electric stepper motor. The control module uses a vehicle
speed input from the PCM In order to determine how to adjust the electric stepper motor. The
motor moves a band and the throttle linkage in response to the control module in order to maintain
the desired cruise speed
The cruise control module and the PCM have a low speed limit which will prevent the cruise control
system from engaging below a speed of 25 mph (40 km/h). The PCM will not allow the cruise
system to operate under certain conditions. When the cruise control system is enabled, the cruise
control module sends a signal to tell the PCM that it is controlling the vehicle speed. The cruise
control module is not serviceable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Voltage Signal > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Cruise Control Status Signal > Page 5626
Voltage Signal: Description and Operation Cooling Fan Control Signal
DESCRIPTION
The electric cooling fans are used to lower the temperature of the engine coolant flowing through
the radiator. They are also used to cool the refrigerant (R134a) flowing through the A/C condenser.
OPERATION
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) controls the operation of the cooling fans. This is
accomplished by providing a ground path for the cooling fan relay coils within the PCM. The relay
contacts will close and complete the circuit between the fusible link at the battery junction block and
the fan motors. Whenever there is a fan ON request both fans will be running.
Power is supplied to the cooling fan motors through a fusible link and three 60 AMP maxifuses. The
60 AMP maxifuses are located in the underhood electrical center. The PCM Output Driver Module
B output 1 is used to control Fan 1 operation. The PCM Output Driver Module B output 2 is used to
control Fan 2 operation. The Driver Module outputs are monitored by the PCM. If Diagnostic
Trouble Codes P1651 or P1652 are present follow the appropriate diagnostic tables prior to
performing Electric Cooling Fans Diagnosis / System Diagnostic Tables. See: Testing and
Inspection
The PCM will complete the ground path for the low speed cooling fans (Fan 1) relay 1 under the
following conditions:
^ When engine temperature exceeds 105°C (221°F).
^ When A/C is requested (ambient temperature must be above 9°C (48°F).
^ When A/C refrigerant pressure is greater than 190 psi (2 volts).
^ When the ignition is off and engine coolant temperature is greater than 140°C (284°F).
The PCM will complete the ground paths for the high speed cooling fans (Fan 2) relays 1, 2 and 3
under the following conditions:
^ When engine temperature exceeds 113°C (235°F).
^ When A/C refrigerant pressure is greater than 275 psi (2.9 volts).
When certain Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) are present, the PCM may command the cooling
fans to run all the time. It is important to perform the Powertrain On-Board Diagnostic System
check prior to diagnosing the engine cooling fans. See: Testing and Inspection
If a problem that involves the low speed cooling fan relay control circuit (cooling fan relay #1
control) exists, DTC P1651 should set. If the problem affects the high speed cooling fan relay
control circuit (cooling fan relay #2 and #3 control), DTC P1652 should set. A problem with the ECT
sensor should set DTC P0117, P0118, P1114, or P1115. Any of these DTCs will affect cooling fan
operation and should be diagnosed before using the Electric Cooling Fan Diagnosis table. The
Electric Cooling Fan Diagnosis table should be used to diagnose the PCM controlled cooling fans
only if no DTC is set. See: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Catalytic Converter > Component
Information > Locations
Catalytic Converter
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Catalytic Converter > Component
Information > Locations > Page 5631
Catalytic Converter: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The three way catalytic converter is an emission control device added to the gasoline engine
exhaust system to effectively reduce hydrocarbon (HC), carbon monoxide (CO) and Oxides Of
Nitrogen (NOx) emissions in the exhaust gas stream.
Heat Shields This device requires the use of heat shields, due to its high operating temperatures.
The heat shields are necessary to protect chassis components, passenger compartment and other
areas from heat related damage.
OPERATION
The converter contains a honeycomb network coated with catalytic material containing platinum,
palladium and rhodium. The catalytic material promotes burning or "oxidation" of the pollutants as
the exhaust gases pass through the converter on their way to the tailpipe. The three way
(reduction) catalyst is coated with platinum and rhodium which lowers levels of oxides of nitrogen
(NOx), in addition to the carbon monoxide and hydrocarbon levels. This catalytic material (catalyst)
in the three way converter is not serviceable.
Fillpipe Restrictor A small diameter fuel tank filler tube is used on catalytic converter equipped
vehicles to prevent the larger service station pump nozzle, used for leaded fuels, being inserted
into the filler tube. Since the use of leaded fuels contaminates the catalyst, rendering them
ineffective, the use of unleaded fuels is mandatory in catalytic converter equipped vehicles.
NOTE: When jacking or lifting vehicle from side rails, be certain the lift pads do NOT contact the
catalytic converter or damage to the converter may result.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Catalytic Converter > Component
Information > Locations > Page 5632
Catalytic Converter: Service and Repair
Catalytic Converter
Remove or Disconnect
1. Raise vehicle.
2. Support three way catalytic converter.
3. Intermediate pipe from three way catalytic converter.
4. Exhaust manifold pipe assembly from exhaust manifold.
5. Exhaust manifold and three way catalytic converter seals.
Clean Flange surfaces.
Install or Connect
1. Exhaust manifold and three way catalytic converter seals.
2. Exhaust manifold pipe assembly to exhaust manifold.
3. Intermediate pipe to three way catalytic converter.
4. Lower vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Control Valve > Component Information > Locations
Top Rear Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Control Valve > Component Information > Locations > Page 5637
Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Valve
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Canister Purge Control Valve > Component Information > Locations > Page 5638
Canister Purge Control Valve: Description and Operation
Operation
The EVAP purge solenoid valve allows manifold vacuum to purge the canister. The Powertrain
Control Module (PCM) supplies a ground to energize the EVAP purge solenoid valve (purge on).
The EVAP purge solenoid control is Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) or turned on and off several
times a second. The PCM controlled PWM output is commanded when the appropriate conditions
have been met:
^ Engine coolant temperature above 25°C (77°F).
^ After the engine has been running about 2 1/2 minutes on a cold start or 30 seconds on a warm
start.
^ The vehicle is operating in closed loop fuel control.
Canister purge PWM duty cycle varies according to operating conditions determined by mass air
flow, fuel trim, and intake air temperature. Canister purge will be disabled if TP angle increases to
above 70%. Canister purge will be re-enabled when TP angle decreases below 66%.
The evaporative leak detection diagnostic strategy is based on applying vacuum to the EVAP
system and monitoring vacuum decay.
The fuel level sensor input to the PCM is used to determine if the fuel level in the tank is correct to
run the EVAP diagnostic tests. To ensure sufficient volume in the tank to begin the various
diagnostic tests, the fuel level must be between 15% and 85%.
The PCM monitors system vacuum level via the fuel tank pressure sensor input.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Locations
Under Rear Of Vehicle
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Locations > Page 5642
Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Vent Solenoid
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Locations > Page 5643
Canister Purge Solenoid: Description and Operation
Operation
The EVAP purge solenoid valve allows manifold vacuum to purge the canister. The Powertrain
Control Module (PCM) supplies a ground to energize the EVAP purge solenoid valve (purge on).
The EVAP purge solenoid control is Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) or turned on and off several
times a second. The PCM controlled PWM output is commanded when the appropriate conditions
have been met:
^ Engine coolant temperature above 25°C (77°F).
^ After the engine has been running about 2 1/2 minutes on a cold start or 30 seconds on a warm
start.
^ The vehicle is operating in closed loop fuel control.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Locations > Page 5644
Canister Purge Solenoid: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the negative battery cable. 2. Note the position of the hoses for installation. 3. Remove
the electrical connector and hoses from solenoid. 4. Release the lock tab on the solenoid mounting
bracket. 5. Remove the solenoid.
Installation Procedure
1. Bend tab on mounting bracket to retain the EVAP purge solenoid valve. 2. Install the solenoid to
solenoid mounting bracket.
2.1. Once installed pull on the solenoid to ensure that the part will be held in place.
3. Install the electrical connector and hoses to solenoid. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Evaporative Emission Control Canister > Canister Vent Valve > Component Information > Service and Repair
Canister Vent Valve: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Disconnect the electrical connector. 2. Remove the EVAP vent solenoid from the bracket, 3.
Remove the vent hose from solenoid. 4. Remove the EVAP vent solenoid.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the EVAP vent solenoid. 2. Install the vent hose. Canister vent hose should be routed
below the fuel tank fill and vent hoses. 3. Connect the electrical connector. 4. Install the EVAP vent
solenoid retaining screw.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Evaporative Fuel Vapor Return Hose > Component Information > Description and Operation
Evaporative Fuel Vapor Return Hose: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The vapor pipe, line, and hoses carry fuel vapors from the fuel tank to the charcoal canister.
CONSTRUCTION
The fuel vapor line is made up of nylon line, steel pipe, and quick connectors. The fuel vapor line
has a Evaporative System Service Port located between the purge solenoid and the charcoal
canister. The Evaporative System Service Port is identified by a green colored cap The
Evaporative System Service Port allows connection for special tools in diagnosing the evaporative
emissions system. The vapor lines extend from the fuel sender to the canister. However, it does
not follow the same route as the fuel feed pipe. Under no conditions use copper or aluminum tubing
to replace steel tubing. Those materials do not have satisfactory durability to withstand normal
vehicle vibrations and corrosion.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Evaporative Fuel Vapor Return Hose > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 5652
Evaporative Fuel Vapor Return Hose: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
Caution: To Reduce the Risk of Fire and Personal Injury:
^ Always cover nylon vapor pipes with a wet towel before using a torch near them. Also, never
expose the vehicle to temperatures higher than 115°C (239°F) for more than one hour, or more
than 90°C (194°F) for any extended period.
^ Take care not to nick or scratch the nylon vapor pipes. If damaged, replace the nylon vapor
pipes.
Notice: When replacing the EVAP pipes or the EVAP hoses, always replace them with the original
equipment or parts that meet the GM specifications for those parts. When replacing EVAP pipes,
the replacement pipe must have the same type of fittings as the original pipe to ensure the integrity
of the connection. When replacing EVAP hoses, use only reinforced fuel-resistant hose identified
with the word Fluoroelastomer or GM 616-M on the hose. The inside hose diameter must match
the outside pipe diameter. Do Not use rubber hose within 100 mm (4 in) at any part of the exhaust
system or within 254 mm (10 in) of the catalytic converter.
1. Remove the retaining hardware and the clamp as necessary. 2. Note the location and the
position for future reference. 3. Inspect the hoses and the vapor lines for cuts, swelling, cracks,
kinks and distortion. 4. Remove the pipe or the hose.
Installation Procedure
Important: Follow the same routing as original pipe or hose.
1. Install the vapor line or hose. 2. Install the retaining hardware and clamps.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Control Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
EGR Control Solenoid: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Control Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5658
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Control Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5659
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Control Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5660
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Control Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5661
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Control Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5662
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Control Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5663
EGR Control Solenoid: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Control Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5664
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Control Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5665
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Control Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5666
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Control Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5684
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Control Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5685
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Control Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5686
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Control Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5687
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Control Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5688
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Control Solenoid > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5689
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Specifications
EGR Valve: Specifications
EGR Valve Nuts ..................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... 30 Nm (22 lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Specifications > Page 5693
Top Rear Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Specifications > Page 5694
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Specifications > Page 5695
EGR Valve: Description and Operation
Linear EGR Valve
DESCRIPTION
The linear EGR valve is designed to accurately supply EGR to an engine independent of intake
manifold vacuum. The valve controls EGR flow from the exhaust to the intake manifold through an
orifice with a PCM controlled pintle. During operation, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
controls pintle position by monitoring the pintle position feedback signal.
The feedback signal can be monitored with a scan tool as "Actual EGR Pos" which should always
be near the commanded EGR position. The PCM uses information from the following sensors to
control the pintle position:
- Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor.
- Throttle Position (TP) sensor.
- Mass Air Flow (MAF).
The linear EGR valve is usually activated under the following conditions:
- Warm engine operation.
- Above idle speed.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Specifications > Page 5696
EGR Valve: Service and Repair
EGR Valve (Typical)
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Disconnect the electrical connector at the EGR valve. 2. Remove the two base to flange nuts
and linear EGR valve assembly.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the linear EGR valve assembly - two nuts.
Tighten Nuts to 3O Nm (22 lb. ft.).
2. Connect the electrical connector.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation
EGR Valve Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Linear EGR Valve
DESCRIPTION
The EGR pintle position sensor is an integral part of the EGR valve assembly. This sensor can not
be serviced separately from the EGR valve.
The PCM monitors the EGR valve pintle position input to ensure that the valve responds properly
to commands from the PCM and to detect a fault if the pintle position sensor and control circuits
are open or shorted. If the PCM detects a pintle position signal voltage outside the normal range of
the pintle position sensor, or a signal voltage that is not within a tolerance considered acceptable
for proper EGR system operation, the PCM will set DTC P1406.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Fillpipe Restrictor > Component
Information > Description and Operation
Fillpipe Restrictor: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
To prevent refueling with leaded fuel, the fuel filler neck is equipped with restrictor and deflector.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Positive Crankcase Ventilation >
Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve > Component Information > Service and Repair
Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the vacuum hoses (1) from the fuel pressure regulator (3) and positive crankcase
ventilation valve (2). 2. Remove the positive crankcase ventilation valve.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the positive crankcase ventilation valve (2). 2. Connect the vacuum hoses (1) to the fuel
pressure regulator (3) and the positive crankcase ventilation valve.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches - Emission
Control Systems > EGR Valve Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation
EGR Valve Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Linear EGR Valve
DESCRIPTION
The EGR pintle position sensor is an integral part of the EGR valve assembly. This sensor can not
be serviced separately from the EGR valve.
The PCM monitors the EGR valve pintle position input to ensure that the valve responds properly
to commands from the PCM and to detect a fault if the pintle position sensor and control circuits
are open or shorted. If the PCM detects a pintle position signal voltage outside the normal range of
the pintle position sensor, or a signal voltage that is not within a tolerance considered acceptable
for proper EGR system operation, the PCM will set DTC P1406.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure > Fuel Pressure
Test Port > Component Information > Locations
Fuel Pressure Test Port: Locations
The Fuel Pressure Test Port is located on the fuel rail.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Release >
System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
Tool Required: J 3473-1A, Fuel Pressure Gauge
1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal to avoid possible fuel discharge if an accidental attempt
is made to start the engine. 2. Loosen the fuel filler cap to relieve tank vapor pressure. 3. Connect
Fuel Pressure Gauge J 34730-1A to the fuel pressure connection. Wrap a shop towel around the
fuel pressure connection while
connecting the fuel pressure gauge in order to avoid spillage.
4. Install the bleed hose into an approved container and open the valve to bleed the system
pressure. The fuel connections are now safe for servicing. 5. Drain any fuel remaining in the fuel
pressure gauge into an approved container.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Idle Speed: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable
Engine Idle
Idle Speed: Customer Interest PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-17
Date: July, 1997
Subject: Unstable Engine Idle (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with 3100 V6 Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
Condition
Some owners may experience an unstable engine idle. The controlled engine idle may vary
approximately 50 RPM from desired idle. This typically occurs during an extended idle period
beyond 30 seconds with the transmission in park or neutral and the air conditioning turned off.
Cause
The Pre Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S1) voltage output is driven low and holds there
(lean). The Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2s2) voltage output will hold then at a high
voltage (rich). This can drive one sensor to cancel out the other thus not allowing fuel trim or the
Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor can take over fuel trim control. If the Post Converter
Heated Oxygen takes over fuel trim control, the system thinks it is running rich and the Long Term
Fuel Trim will make adjustments to lean the system. Either of these conditions will cause a rolling
or hunting idle.
Correction
Check the calibration identification number utilizing a scan tool device. Re-flash with the updated
calibration if the current calibration is not one listed in this bulletin. If the vehicle already has the
most recent calibration, then refer to the appropriate service repair manual to diagnose and repair.
Test drive the vehicle after repair to ensure that the condition has been corrected. The new
calibrations are available from the GM Service Technology Group starting with CD number 12 for
1997.
Important:
There are three methods for programming a PCM
1. Direct Programming. The vehicle is directly connected via the Data Link Connector (DLC) on the
Dealers/Retailers Techline equipment. (T-20 Plus, T-50 and T-60 only) Vehicle must be present.
2. Remote programming. The new program is downloaded into the Dealers/Retailers scan tool and
then downloaded into the vehicle from the scan tool via the DLC. Tech 2 required. Vehicle must be
present.
3. Off-Car Programming. A PCM may be programmed while removed from the vehicle by using the
off-board programming adapter (OBPA), P/N 41207-B. This adapter can be connected to either the
Techline Terminal for direct programming or the scan tool for remote programming. Not necessary
for the vehicle to be present.
Refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Techline Information for more detailed instructions.
Parts Information
Part Number Carline Emission
16266904 Malibu, Cutlass USA Nationwide
16266914 Malibu, Cutlass Canadian/Unleaded
Export
16266924 Malibu Leaded Export
Important:
Do not attempt to order the calibrations from GMSPO. The calibrations are programmed into the
vehicle's PCM via a Techline Tool device.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Idle Speed: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable
Engine Idle > Page 5727
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > By Symptom for Idle Speed: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable Engine
Idle
Idle Speed: By Symptom PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-17
Date: July, 1997
Subject: Unstable Engine Idle (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with 3100 V6 Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
Condition
Some owners may experience an unstable engine idle. The controlled engine idle may vary
approximately 50 RPM from desired idle. This typically occurs during an extended idle period
beyond 30 seconds with the transmission in park or neutral and the air conditioning turned off.
Cause
The Pre Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S1) voltage output is driven low and holds there
(lean). The Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2s2) voltage output will hold then at a high
voltage (rich). This can drive one sensor to cancel out the other thus not allowing fuel trim or the
Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor can take over fuel trim control. If the Post Converter
Heated Oxygen takes over fuel trim control, the system thinks it is running rich and the Long Term
Fuel Trim will make adjustments to lean the system. Either of these conditions will cause a rolling
or hunting idle.
Correction
Check the calibration identification number utilizing a scan tool device. Re-flash with the updated
calibration if the current calibration is not one listed in this bulletin. If the vehicle already has the
most recent calibration, then refer to the appropriate service repair manual to diagnose and repair.
Test drive the vehicle after repair to ensure that the condition has been corrected. The new
calibrations are available from the GM Service Technology Group starting with CD number 12 for
1997.
Important:
There are three methods for programming a PCM
1. Direct Programming. The vehicle is directly connected via the Data Link Connector (DLC) on the
Dealers/Retailers Techline equipment. (T-20 Plus, T-50 and T-60 only) Vehicle must be present.
2. Remote programming. The new program is downloaded into the Dealers/Retailers scan tool and
then downloaded into the vehicle from the scan tool via the DLC. Tech 2 required. Vehicle must be
present.
3. Off-Car Programming. A PCM may be programmed while removed from the vehicle by using the
off-board programming adapter (OBPA), P/N 41207-B. This adapter can be connected to either the
Techline Terminal for direct programming or the scan tool for remote programming. Not necessary
for the vehicle to be present.
Refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Techline Information for more detailed instructions.
Parts Information
Part Number Carline Emission
16266904 Malibu, Cutlass USA Nationwide
16266914 Malibu, Cutlass Canadian/Unleaded
Export
16266924 Malibu Leaded Export
Important:
Do not attempt to order the calibrations from GMSPO. The calibrations are programmed into the
vehicle's PCM via a Techline Tool device.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > By Symptom for Idle Speed: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable Engine
Idle > Page 5733
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Idle Speed: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM Unstable Engine Idle
Idle Speed: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-17
Date: July, 1997
Subject: Unstable Engine Idle (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with 3100 V6 Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
Condition
Some owners may experience an unstable engine idle. The controlled engine idle may vary
approximately 50 RPM from desired idle. This typically occurs during an extended idle period
beyond 30 seconds with the transmission in park or neutral and the air conditioning turned off.
Cause
The Pre Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S1) voltage output is driven low and holds there
(lean). The Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2s2) voltage output will hold then at a high
voltage (rich). This can drive one sensor to cancel out the other thus not allowing fuel trim or the
Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor can take over fuel trim control. If the Post Converter
Heated Oxygen takes over fuel trim control, the system thinks it is running rich and the Long Term
Fuel Trim will make adjustments to lean the system. Either of these conditions will cause a rolling
or hunting idle.
Correction
Check the calibration identification number utilizing a scan tool device. Re-flash with the updated
calibration if the current calibration is not one listed in this bulletin. If the vehicle already has the
most recent calibration, then refer to the appropriate service repair manual to diagnose and repair.
Test drive the vehicle after repair to ensure that the condition has been corrected. The new
calibrations are available from the GM Service Technology Group starting with CD number 12 for
1997.
Important:
There are three methods for programming a PCM
1. Direct Programming. The vehicle is directly connected via the Data Link Connector (DLC) on the
Dealers/Retailers Techline equipment. (T-20 Plus, T-50 and T-60 only) Vehicle must be present.
2. Remote programming. The new program is downloaded into the Dealers/Retailers scan tool and
then downloaded into the vehicle from the scan tool via the DLC. Tech 2 required. Vehicle must be
present.
3. Off-Car Programming. A PCM may be programmed while removed from the vehicle by using the
off-board programming adapter (OBPA), P/N 41207-B. This adapter can be connected to either the
Techline Terminal for direct programming or the scan tool for remote programming. Not necessary
for the vehicle to be present.
Refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Techline Information for more detailed instructions.
Parts Information
Part Number Carline Emission
16266904 Malibu, Cutlass USA Nationwide
16266914 Malibu, Cutlass Canadian/Unleaded
Export
16266924 Malibu Leaded Export
Important:
Do not attempt to order the calibrations from GMSPO. The calibrations are programmed into the
vehicle's PCM via a Techline Tool device.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Idle Speed: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM Unstable Engine Idle > Page 5739
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5740
Idle Speed: Specifications
Information not supplied by the manufacturer.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Accelerator Pedal: > 67-63-05A > Aug > 97 >
Accelerator Pedal - Hard to Depress/Cable Separation
Accelerator Pedal: Customer Interest Accelerator Pedal - Hard to Depress/Cable Separation
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 67-63-O5A
Date: August, 1997
Subject: Difficult to Depress Accelerator Pedal and/or an Accelerator Cable Separation (Install
Accelerator Cable and Clip)
Models: 1994-97 Buick Regal, Skylark 1994-96 Chevrolet Beretta, Corsica 1995-97 Chevrolet
Lumina, Monte Carlo 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1994-97 Pontiac Grand Prix, Grand Am 1993-97
Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 1994-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with 3100 V6
Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
This bulletin is being revised to remove Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera from the models section. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 67-63-05 (Section 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission).
Condition
Some owners may experience a premature separation of the accelerator cable. Additionally, some
owners may comment about a difficult to depress accelerator pedal.
Cause
The accelerator cable comes out of the throttle cam groove on the throttle body. This happens
when slack is allowed to accumulate in the cable and a loop is formed while the throttle is opened.
When the throttle is relaxed, the loop of cable may not return to the groove in the throttle cam but
comes to rest along the side of the cam. A typical scenario can be either lifting up on the
accelerator pedal while the cruise control is engaged and then disengaging the cruise control or if
the floor mat is allowed to bunch up under the accelerator pedal. The cable will return to the cam
groove if the throttle is depressed to near wide open throttle. The cable may become worn or
broken if. it is allowed to wear against the throttle cam. If the cable breaks, the throttle will return to
idle.
Correction
If the accelerator cable is broken or shows any signs of wear on the stranded wire end at the
throttle cam, replace the cable and install a cable retention clip. If the cable is not broken and the
cable shows no wear on the stranded wire end, install an accelerator cable retention clip. The
accelerator cable retention clip can be installed by following the procedure below:
1. Hold the throttle wide open. This may easily be done from inside the vehicle by depressing the
accelerator pedal.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Accelerator Pedal: > 67-63-05A > Aug > 97 >
Accelerator Pedal - Hard to Depress/Cable Separation > Page 5749
2. Install the throttle clip over the cam groove (Figure 1) in line with the existing hole in the throttle
cam thus capturing the accelerator cable in the groove. Rotate the clip upward to insert the clip
tang into the throttle cam hole. Rotate the clip downward and push to seat the clip tang in the
throttle cam.
3. Close the throttle slowly. Do not allow the throttle to snap shut.
4. Check the throttle system for proper operation.
Parts Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Accelerator Pedal: > 67-63-05A > Aug > 97 >
Accelerator Pedal - Hard to Depress/Cable Separation > Page 5750
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use as shown.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Accelerator Pedal: > 67-63-05A >
Aug > 97 > Accelerator Pedal - Hard to Depress/Cable Separation
Accelerator Pedal: All Technical Service Bulletins Accelerator Pedal - Hard to Depress/Cable
Separation
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 67-63-O5A
Date: August, 1997
Subject: Difficult to Depress Accelerator Pedal and/or an Accelerator Cable Separation (Install
Accelerator Cable and Clip)
Models: 1994-97 Buick Regal, Skylark 1994-96 Chevrolet Beretta, Corsica 1995-97 Chevrolet
Lumina, Monte Carlo 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1994-97 Pontiac Grand Prix, Grand Am 1993-97
Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 1994-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with 3100 V6
Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
This bulletin is being revised to remove Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera from the models section. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 67-63-05 (Section 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission).
Condition
Some owners may experience a premature separation of the accelerator cable. Additionally, some
owners may comment about a difficult to depress accelerator pedal.
Cause
The accelerator cable comes out of the throttle cam groove on the throttle body. This happens
when slack is allowed to accumulate in the cable and a loop is formed while the throttle is opened.
When the throttle is relaxed, the loop of cable may not return to the groove in the throttle cam but
comes to rest along the side of the cam. A typical scenario can be either lifting up on the
accelerator pedal while the cruise control is engaged and then disengaging the cruise control or if
the floor mat is allowed to bunch up under the accelerator pedal. The cable will return to the cam
groove if the throttle is depressed to near wide open throttle. The cable may become worn or
broken if. it is allowed to wear against the throttle cam. If the cable breaks, the throttle will return to
idle.
Correction
If the accelerator cable is broken or shows any signs of wear on the stranded wire end at the
throttle cam, replace the cable and install a cable retention clip. If the cable is not broken and the
cable shows no wear on the stranded wire end, install an accelerator cable retention clip. The
accelerator cable retention clip can be installed by following the procedure below:
1. Hold the throttle wide open. This may easily be done from inside the vehicle by depressing the
accelerator pedal.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Accelerator Pedal: > 67-63-05A >
Aug > 97 > Accelerator Pedal - Hard to Depress/Cable Separation > Page 5756
2. Install the throttle clip over the cam groove (Figure 1) in line with the existing hole in the throttle
cam thus capturing the accelerator cable in the groove. Rotate the clip upward to insert the clip
tang into the throttle cam hole. Rotate the clip downward and push to seat the clip tang in the
throttle cam.
3. Close the throttle slowly. Do not allow the throttle to snap shut.
4. Check the throttle system for proper operation.
Parts Information
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Accelerator Pedal: > 67-63-05A >
Aug > 97 > Accelerator Pedal - Hard to Depress/Cable Separation > Page 5757
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use as shown.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5758
Accelerator Pedal: Specifications
Accelerator Pedal assembly nuts to cowl
................................................................................................................................................... 30
Nm (25 lb. ft.)
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5759
Accelerator Pedal: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the left instrument panel sound insulator. Refer to Instrument Panel, Gages and
Console. 2. Remove the accelerator cable from accelerator pedal. 3. Remove the accelerator pedal
nuts to cowl. 4. Remove the accelerator pedal assembly.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the accelerator pedal assembly. 2. Install the accelerator pedal nuts to cowl.
Tighten ^
Tighten the accelerator pedal nuts at cowl to 30 Nm (25 lb ft).
3. Install the accelerator cable to the accelerator pedal 4. Install the left instrument panel sound
insulator. Refer to Instrument Panel, Gages and Console. 5. Inspect and check for complete
throttle opening and closing positions by operating the accelerator pedal. Also check for poor
carpet fit under the
accelerator pedal.
6. Inspect the throttle should operate freely without binding between full closed and wide open
throttle.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air Filter Element: >
04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: Customer Interest Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
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Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air Filter Element: >
04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page 5769
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Filter Element: >
04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Filter Element: >
04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page 5775
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5776
Air Filter Element: Service and Repair
Air Intake Resonator
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the attaching bolt. 2. Remove retainer from resonator. 3. Remove the air intake
resonator.
Installation Procedure
1. Install resonator to vehicle. 2. Connect retainer to the air intake resonator. 3. Install attaching bolt
to the resonator.
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Locations
Top Left Side Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5783
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5784
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5785
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5786
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5787
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5788
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5806
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5808
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5810
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5811
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5812
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5813
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5814
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5815
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor measures the amount of air which passes through the throttle
body. The PCM uses this information to determine the operating condition of the engine, to control
fuel delivery. A large quantity of air indicates acceleration, while a small quantity indicates
deceleration or idle.
The scan tool reads the MAF value and displays it in grams per second (gm/s). At idle, it should
read between 4 gm/s-7 gm/s on a fully warmed up engine. Values should change rather quickly on
acceleration, but values should remain fairly stable at any given RPM. A failure in the MAF sensor
or circuit should set DTC P0101, DTC P0102, or DTC P0103.
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5816
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove the MAF sensor electrical connector. 2. Remove the air inlet duct from the MAF sensor.
3. Remove the MAF sensor from the air filter housing.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Carefully install the MAF sensor to the air inlet grommet. 2. Install the MAF sensor to the air inlet
duct. 3. Reconnect the electrical connector.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fillpipe Restrictor >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Fillpipe Restrictor: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
To prevent refueling with leaded fuel, the fuel filler neck is equipped with restrictor and deflector.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel System - TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Canada)
Fuel: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel System - TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Canada)
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 05-06-04-022G
Date: October 27, 2010
Subject: TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline Information and Available Brands (Deposits, Fuel
Economy, No Start, Power, Performance, Stall Concerns) - Canada ONLY
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Canada Only)
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the model years and include an additional
gasoline brand as a TOP TIER source. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-06-04-022F
(Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System). In the U.S., refer to the latest version of Corporate
Bulletin Number 04-06-04-047I.
A new class of fuel called TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline is appearing at retail stations of some fuel
marketers. This gasoline meets detergency standards developed by six automotive companies. All
vehicles will benefit from using TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline over gasoline containing the "Lowest
Additive Concentration" recommended by the Canadian General Standards Board (CGSB). Those
vehicles that have experienced deposit related concerns may especially benefit from use of TOP
TIER Detergent Gasoline.
Intake valve: 16,093 km (10,000 mi) with TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline
Intake valve: 16,093 km (10,000 mi) with Minimum Additive recommended by the CGSB
Top Tier Fuel Availability
Chevron was the first to offer TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline in Canada. Shell became the first
national gasoline retailer to offer TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline across Canada. Petro-Canada
began offering TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline nationally as of October 1, 2006. Sunoco began
offering TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline in March of 2007. Esso began offering TOP TIER Detergent
Gasoline in May of 2010.
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> Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel System - TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Canada) > Page 5824
Gasoline Brands That Currently Meet TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline Standards
The following gasoline brands meet the TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline Standards in all octane
grades :
Chevron Canada (markets in British Columbia and western Alberta)
- Shell Canada (nationally)
- Petro-Canada (nationally)
- Sunoco-Canada (Ontario)
- Esso-Canada (nationally)
What is TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline?
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline is a new class of gasoline with enhanced detergency and no
metallic additives. It meets new, voluntary deposit control standards developed by six automotive
companies that exceed the detergent recommendations of Canadian standards and does not
contain metallic additives, which can damage vehicle emission control components.
Where Can TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline Be Purchased?
The TOP TIER program began in the U.S. and Canada on May 3, 2004. Some fuel marketers have
already joined and introduced TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. This is a voluntary program and not
all fuel marketers will offer this product. Once fuel marketers make public announcements, they will
appear on a list of brands that meet the TOP TIER standards.
Who developed TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline standards?
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline standards were developed by six automotive companies: BMW,
General Motors, Honda, Toyota, Volkswagen and Audi.
Why was TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline developed?
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline was developed to increase the level of detergent additive in
gasoline. In the U.S., government regulations require that all gasoline sold in the U.S. contain a
detergent additive. However, the requirement is minimal and in many cases, is not sufficient to
keep engines clean. In Canada, gasoline standards recommend adherence to U.S. detergency
requirements but do not require it. In fact, many brands of gasoline in Canada do not contain any
detergent additive. In order to meet TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline standards, a higher level of
detergent is needed than what is required or recommended, and no metallic additives are allowed.
Also, TOP TIER was developed to give fuel marketers the opportunity to differentiate their product.
Why did the six automotive companies join together to develop TOP TIER?
All six corporations recognized the benefits to both the vehicle and the consumer. Also, joining
together emphasized that low detergency and the intentional addition of metallic additives is an
issue of concern to several automotive companies.
What are the benefits of TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline?
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline will help keep engines cleaner than gasoline containing the "Lowest
Additive Concentration" recommended by Canadian standards. Clean engines help provide optimal
fuel economy and engine performance, and also provide reduced emissions. Also, the use of TOP
TIER Detergent Gasoline will help reduce deposit related concerns.
Who should use TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline?
All vehicles will benefit from using TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline over gasoline containing the
"Lowest Additive Concentration" recommended by Canadian standards. Those vehicles that have
experienced deposit related concerns may especially benefit from use of TOP TIER Detergent
Gasoline. More information on TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline can be found at this website,
http://www.toptiergas.com/.
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> Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel System - TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Canada) > Page 5825
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel System - TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Canada) > Page 5826
Fuel: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel System - 'TOP TIER' Detergent Gasoline Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-047I
Date: August 17, 2009
Subject: TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Deposits, Fuel Economy, No Start, Power, Performance,
Stall Concerns) - U.S. Only
Models:
2010 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) (U.S. Only) 2003-2010
HUMMER H2 (U.S. Only) 2006-2010 HUMMER H3 (U.S. Only) 2005-2009 Saab 9-7X (U.S. Only)
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years and additional sources to the Top Tier
Fuel Retailers list. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-06-04-047H (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System). In Canada, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 05-06-04-022F.
A new class of fuel called TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline is appearing at retail stations of some fuel
marketers. This gasoline meets detergency standards developed by six automotive companies. All
vehicles will benefit from using TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline over gasoline containing the "Lowest
Additive Concentration" set by the EPA. Those vehicles that have experienced deposit related
concerns may especially benefit from the use of TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline.
Intake valve: - 10,000 miles with TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline
Intake valve: - 10,000 miles with Legal Minimum additive
Gasoline Brands That Currently Meet TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline Standards
As of August 1, 2009, all grades of the following gasoline brands meet the TOP TIER Detergent
Gasoline Standards:
- Chevron
- Chevron-Canada
- QuikTrip
- Conoco
Phillips 66
- 76
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> Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel System - TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Canada) > Page 5827
- Shell
- Shell-Canada
- Entec Stations located in the greater Montgomery, Alabama area.
- MFA Oil Company located throughout Missouri.
- Kwik Trip, Inc. in Minnesota and Wisconsin and Kwik Star convenience stores in Iowa.
The Somerset Refinery, Inc. at Somerset Oil stations in Kentucky.
Aloha Petroleum
- Tri-Par Oil Company
- Turkey Hill Minit Markets
- Texaco
- Petro-Canada
- Sunoco-Canada
- Road Ranger located in Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kentucky, Missouri, Ohio and Wisconsin
What is TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline?
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline is a new class of gasoline with enhanced detergency. It meets new,
voluntary deposit control standards developed by six automotive companies that exceed the
detergent requirements imposed by the EPA.
Where Can TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline Be Purchased?
The TOP TIER program began on May 3, 2004 and many fuel marketers have joined the program
and have introduced TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. This is a voluntary program and not all fuel
marketers will offer this product. Once fuel marketers make public announcements, they will appear
on a list of brands that meet the TOP TIER standards.
Where Can I find the Latest Information on TOP TIER Fuel and Retailers?
On the web, please visit www.toptiergas.com for additional information and updated retailer lists.
Who developed TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline standards?
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline standards were developed by six automotive companies: Audi,
BMW, General Motors, Honda, Toyota and Volkswagen.
Why was TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline developed?
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline was developed to increase the level of detergent additive in
gasoline. The EPA requires that all gasoline sold in the U.S. contain a detergent additive. However,
the requirement is minimal and in many cases, is not sufficient to keep engines clean. In order to
meet TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline standards, a higher level of detergent is needed than what is
required by the EPA. Also, TOP TIER was developed to give fuel marketers the opportunity to
differentiate their product.
Why did the six automotive companies join together to develop TOP TIER?
All six corporations recognized the benefits to both the vehicle and the consumer. Also, joining
together emphasized that low detergency is an issue of concern to several automotive companies.
What are the benefits of TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline?
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline will help keep engines cleaner than gasoline containing the "Lowest
Additive Concentration" set by the EPA. Clean engines help provide optimal fuel economy and
performance and reduced emissions. Also, use of TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline will help reduce
deposit related concerns.
Disclaimer
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> Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel System - TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Canada) > Page 5828
Fuel: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel System - E85 Fuel Usage Precautions
Bulletin No.: 05-06-04-035C
Date: July 30, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Usage of E85 Fuels in GM Vehicles
Models: 1997-2008 GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2003-2008 HUMMER H2
2006-2008 HUMMER H3 1997-2008 Isuzu NPR Commercial Medium Duty Trucks 2005-2008
Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2008 model year and additional engines with E85
capability. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-06-04-035B (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System).
Customer Interest in E85 Fuel
As the retail price of gasoline increases, some locations in the country are seeing price differentials
between regular gasoline and E85 where E85 is selling for substantially less than regular grade
gasoline. One result of this is that some customers have inquired if they are able to use E85 fuel in
non-E85 compatible vehicles.
Only vehicles designated for use with E85 should use E85 blended fuel.
E85 compatibility is designated for vehicles that are certified to run on up to 85% ethanol and 15%
gasoline. All other gasoline engines are designed to run on fuel that contains no more than 10%
ethanol.
Use of fuel containing greater than 10% ethanol in non-E85 designated vehicles can cause
driveability issues, service engine soon indicators as well as increased fuel system corrosion.
Using E85 Fuels in Non-Compatible Vehicles
General Motors is aware of an increased number of cases where customers have fueled
non-FlexFuel designated vehicles with E85. Fueling non-FlexFuel designated vehicles with E85, or
with fuels where the concentration of ethanol exceeds the ASTM specification of 10%, will result in
one or more of the following conditions:
Lean Driveability concerns such as hesitations, sags and/or possible stalling.
SES lights due to OBD codes.
Fuel Trim codes P0171 and/or P0174.
Misfire codes (P0300).
Various 02 sensor codes.
Disabled traction control or Stability System disabled messages.
Harsh/Firm transmission shifts.
Fuel system and/or engine mechanical component degradation.
Use of fuel containing greater than 10% ethanol in non-E85 designated vehicles can cause
driveability issues, service engine soon indicators as well as increased fuel system corrosion.
If the dealer suspects that a non-FlexFuel designated vehicle brought in for service has been
fueled with E85, the fuel in the vehicle's tank should be checked for alcohol content with tool J
44175. If the alcohol content exceeds 10% the fuel should be drained and the vehicle refilled with
gasoline - preferably one of the Top Tier brands.
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> Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel System - TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Canada) > Page 5829
Repairs to non-FlexFuel vehicles that have been fueled with E85 are not covered under the terms
of the New Vehicle Warranty.
A complete list of GM's FlexFuel vehicles can be found in this Service Bulletin, or at
www.livegreengoyellow.com.
E85 Compatible Vehicles
The only E85 compatible vehicles produced by General Motors are shown.
Only vehicles that are listed in the E85 Compatible Vehicles section of this bulletin and/or
www.livegreengoyellow.com are E85 compatible.
All other gasoline and diesel engines are NOT E85 compatible.
Use of fuel containing greater than 10% ethanol in non-E85 designated vehicles can cause
driveability issues, service engine soon indicators as well as increased fuel system corrosion.
Repairs to non-FlexFuel vehicles that have been fueled with E85 are not covered under the terms
of the New Vehicle Warranty.
Disclaimer
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> Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel System - TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Canada) > Page 5830
Fuel: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel - Top Tier Detergent Gasoline Information
Bulletin No.: 04-06-00-047
Date: June 24, 2004
ADVANCED SERVICE INFORMATION
Subject: Top Tier Detergent Gasoline (Deposits, Fuel Economy, No Start, Power, Performance,
Stall Concerns)
Models: 2005 and Prior All General Motors Passenger Cars and Trucks (U.S. Only)
A new class of gasoline, called Top Tier Detergent Gasoline, will be appearing at retail stations of
some fuel marketers. This gasoline meets detergency standards developed by four automotive
companies. A description of the concept and benefits of Top Tier is provided in the following
question and answer section.
What is Top Tier Detergent Gasoline?
Top Tier Detergent Gasoline is a new class of gasoline with enhanced detergency. It meets new,
voluntary deposit control standards developed by four automotive companies that exceed the
detergent requirements imposed by the EPA.
Who developed Top Tier Detergent Gasoline standards?
Top Tier Detergent Gasoline standards were developed by four automotive companies: BMW,
General Motors, Honda and Toyota.
Why was Top Tier Detergent Gasoline developed?
Top Tier Detergent Gasoline was developed to increase the level of detergent additive in gasoline.
The EPA requires that all gasoline sold in the U.S. contain a detergent additive. However, the
requirement is minimal and in many cases, is not sufficient to keep engines clean. In order to meet
Top Tier Detergent Gasoline standards, a higher level of detergent is needed than what is required
by the EPA. Also, Top Tier was developed to give fuel marketers the opportunity to differentiate
their product.
Why did the four automotive companies join together to develop Top Tier?
All four corporations recognized the benefits to both the vehicle and the consumer. Also, joining
together emphasized that low detergency is an issue of concern to several automotive companies.
What are the benefits of Top Tier Detergent Gasoline?
Top Tier Detergent Gasoline will help keep engines cleaner than gasoline containing the "Lowest
Additive Concentration" set by the EPA. Clean engines help provide optimal fuel economy and
performance and reduced emissions. Also, use of Top Tier Detergent Gasoline will help reduce
deposit related concerns.
Who should use Top Tier Detergent Gasoline?
All vehicles will benefit from using Top Tier Detergent Gasoline over gasoline containing the
"Lowest Additive Concentration" set by the EPA. Those vehicles that have experienced deposit
related concerns may especially benefit from use of Top Tier Detergent Gasoline.
Where can Top Tier Detergent Gasoline be purchased?
The Top Tier program began on May 3, 2004. Some fuel marketers have already joined and are
making plans to introduce Top Tier Detergent Gasoline. This is a voluntary program and not all fuel
marketers will offer this product. Once fuel marketers make public announcements, a list of all fuel
marketers meeting Top Tier standards will be made available. For now, look for the "Top Tier"
designation at the gas pump.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel > Component Information
> Specifications > Fuel (Alcohol and Gasoline) Types
Fuel: Specifications Fuel (Alcohol and Gasoline) Types
General Motors customers will be potentially exposed to a variety of different fuel types. Besides
the conventional gasoline available, new types such as Reformulated Gasoline (RFG), oxygenated
gasoline, and starting in 1996, California Phase 2 RFG. Reformulated Gasoline (RFG) is blended
to burn more cleanly and not to evaporate as readily. RFG must contain a minimum of 2 percent
oxygen, which is usually achieved with ethanol or EPA-approved ethers such as methyl
tertiary-butyl ether (MTBE). This type of fuel is required by the Clean Air Act in the nine worst
ozone non-attainment areas of the country, and may also be required in other areas designated
ozone non-attainment, at the option of the states. RFG is intended to produce approximately 15
percent less pollution than conventional gasoline. Using RFG should reduce the total health risk to
the public by reducing exposure to ozone and air toxins. General Motors supports the use of RFG
as a cost effective means of providing air quality benefits.
Oxygenated gasolines are prevalent in the wintertime for Carbon Monoxide (CO) non-attainment
areas. These fuels contain oxygen components similar to RFG. Approximately 50 percent of the
fuel sold in the U.s. in the wintertime contains an oxygenate component.
Vehicle fuel economy may be slightly reduced, if at all, by the use of gasoline containing
oxygenates. Fuel economy is most affected by engine and vehicle type, driving habits, weather
conditions, and vehicle maintenance.
Properly blended RFG, oxygenated gasoline, and California Phase 2 RFG will have no adverse
effect on vehicle performance or to the durability of engine and fuel system components. In fact,
the General Motors Owner's Manual fuel statements have consistently permitted the use of
properly blended fuels containing up to 10 percent ethanol (since 1980) and up to 15 percent
methyl tertiary-butyl ether (MTBE) for current and all past model year vehicles. These statements
continue to be valid. The use of oxygenate-containing fuels will not invalidate the GM vehicle
warranty.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel > Component Information
> Specifications > Fuel (Alcohol and Gasoline) Types > Page 5833
Fuel: Specifications Fuel System Specifications (Fuel Regular)
The following information appears in the General Motors owner's manual for this vehicle.
Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. At a minimum, it should meet
specifications ASTM D4814 in the United States and CGSB 3.5-M93 in Canada. Improved gasoline
specifications have been developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association
(AAMA) for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting the AAMA
specification could provide improved driveability and emission control system protection compared
to other gasolines.
Be sure the posted octane is at least 87. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy
knocking noise when you drive. If it's bad enough, it can damage your engine.
If you're using fuel rated at 87 octane or higher and you still hear heavy knocking, your engine
needs service. But don't worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you're accelerating or driving
up a hill. That's normal, and you don't have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It's the
heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem.
If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (indicated on the underhood
tune-up label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If such fuels are
not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate
satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may
be affected.
The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on and/or your vehicle may fail a
smog-check test. If this occurs, return to a qualified service outlet for diagnosis to determine the
cause of failure. In the event it is determined that the cause of the condition is the type of fuels
used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.
Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions contain an octane-enhancing additive
called methylcyclopentadlenyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask your service station operator
whether or not his fuel contains MMT General Motors does not recommend the use of such
gasolines. If fuels containing MMT are used, spark plug life may be reduced and your emission
control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument
panel may turn on. If this occurs, return to a qualified service outlet for service.
To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that
will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system, allowing your emission
control system to function properly. Therefore, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In
addition, gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines
may be available in your area to help clean the air. General Motors recommends that you use
these gasolines if they comply with the specifications described earlier.
Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don't use it. It can corrode
metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn't
be covered under your warranty.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel > Component Information
> Specifications > Page 5834
Fuel: Testing and Inspection
Alcohol concentrations greater than 10% in fuel can be detrimental to fuel system components and
may cause driveability problems such as hesitation, lack of power, stall, no start, etc.
The problems may be due to fuel system corrosion and subsequent fuel filter plugging,
deterioration of rubber components, and/or air-fuel mixture leaning. Various types and
concentrations of alcohol are used in commercial fuel. Some alcohol is more detrimental to fuel
system components than others. If an excessive amount of alcohol in the fuel is suspected as the
cause of a driveability condition, the following procedure may be used to detect the presence of
alcohol in the fuel.
Testing Procedure
The fuel sample should be drawn from the bottom of the tank so that any water present in the tank
will be detected. The sample should be bright and clear. If the sample appears cloudy, or
contaminated with water (as indicated by a water layer at the bottom of the sample), this procedure
should not be used, and the fuel system should be cleaned.
1. Using a 100 ml specified cylinder with 1 ml graduation marks, fill the cylinder with fuel to the 90
ml mark. 2. Add 10 ml of water in order to bring the total fluid volume to 100 ml and install a
stopper. 3. Shake the cylinder vigorously for 10 to 15 seconds. 4. Carefully loosen the stopper in
order to release the pressure. 5. Re-install the stopper and shake the cylinder vigorously again for
10 to 15 seconds. 6. Put the cylinder on a level surface for approximately 5 minutes in order to
allow adequate liquid separation.
If alcohol is present in the fuel, the volume of the lower layer (which would now contain both alcohol
and water) will be greater than 10 ml. For example, if the volume of the lower layer is increased to
15 ml, this indicates at least 5 percent alcohol in the fuel. The actual amount of alcohol may be
somewhat greater because this procedure does not extract all of the alcohol from the fuel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Filler Cap > Component
Information > Description and Operation
Fuel Filler Cap: Description and Operation
Fuel Filler Neck And Cap
Notice: If a fuel filler cap requires replacement, use only a cap with the same features, Failure to
use the correct cap can result in a serious malfunction of the system.
The fuel tank filler neck (1) is equipped with a screw type cap (2). A built in ratchet type torque
limiting device prevents over tightening. In order to install, turn the cap clockwise until a clicking
noise is heard. This signals that the correct torque has been reached and the cap is fully seated. A
fuel filler cap that is not fully seated, may cause a malfunction in the emission system.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure
Release > System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
Tool Required: J 3473-1A, Fuel Pressure Gauge
1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal to avoid possible fuel discharge if an accidental attempt
is made to start the engine. 2. Loosen the fuel filler cap to relieve tank vapor pressure. 3. Connect
Fuel Pressure Gauge J 34730-1A to the fuel pressure connection. Wrap a shop towel around the
fuel pressure connection while
connecting the fuel pressure gauge in order to avoid spillage.
4. Install the bleed hose into an approved container and open the valve to bleed the system
pressure. The fuel connections are now safe for servicing. 5. Drain any fuel remaining in the fuel
pressure gauge into an approved container.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-06-04-005B > Sep > 01 > Fuel Injectors - Hard
Starts/Poor Driveability/Misfire
Technical Service Bulletin # 99-06-04-005B Date: 010901
Fuel Injectors - Hard Starts/Poor Driveability/Misfire
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 99-06-04-005B
Date: September, 2001
TECHNICAL
Subject: Driveability Symptoms Due to Clogged Fuel Injectors (Clean Injectors)
Models: 1994-1996 Buick Regal 1994-1999 Buick Century 1994-1998 Buick Skylark 1994-1996
Chevrolet Corsica, Beretta 1995-1999 Chevrolet Lumina, Monte Carlo 1996 Lumina APV
1997-1999 Chevrolet Malibu, Venture 1994-1996 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1994-1997 Oldsmobile
Achieva, Cutlass Supreme 1996-1999 Oldsmobile Silhouette 1997-1998 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999
Oldsmobile Alero 1994-1999 Pontiac Grand Am, Grand Prix 1996-1998 Pontiac Trans Sport 1999
Pontiac Montana with 3.1 L or 3.4 L V6 Engine (VINs E, J, M - RPOs LA1, LG8, L82)
This bulletin is being revised to update labor time allowance for labor operation J5645.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-06-04-005A (Section 6 - Engine).
Condition
Some owners may comment on driveability symptoms of long or hard starts, chuggle, rough idle
and light or intermittent misfire. The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) may also illuminate.
Cause
Due to various factors, the fuel injectors may become restricted. At this point, no specific fuel, fuel
constituent, or engine condition has been identified as causing the restriction. The restriction
causes the engine to operate at a lean air fuel ratio. This may either trigger the MIL to illuminate or
the engine to develop various driveability symptoms.
Correction
Fuel injector restrictions, deposits, can be cleaned on the vehicle, using the following procedure.
Under NO circumstances should this procedure be modified, changed or shortened.
Notice:
^ The recommended mixture amount of GM Top-Engine Cleaner has been increased from 5% to
10%. This increase was implemented to improve the effectiveness of the injector cleaning
procedure. Follow the cleaning procedure carefully to minimize the risk of fuel system damage.
^ GM Top-Engine Cleaner is the only injector cleaning agent approved for use with General Motors
fuel system components. Other injector cleaners, while effective, may cause damage to plastics,
plated metals or bearings. General Motors has completed extensive laboratory testing of GM
Top-Engine Cleaner, and can assure its compatibility with General Motors fuel system
components, as long as the cleaning procedure is followed correctly.
Important:
This bulletin recommends the use of pre-measured containers of GM Top-Engine Cleaner, P/N
12346535, - U.S. USAGE ONLY.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-06-04-005B > Sep > 01 > Fuel Injectors - Hard
Starts/Poor Driveability/Misfire > Page 5850
Pre-measured containers eliminate the need to measure the amount of GM Top-Engine Cleaner
being added to the J 35800-A, injector cleaning tool. In Canada, use P/N 992872. It will be
necessary to measure and dispense Top Engine Cleaner into the J 35800-A, injector cleaning tool.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles serviced under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Injector Balance Test
The following tools or their equivalent are required:
^ J 39021 Fuel Injector Coil/Balance Tester
^ J 39021-210 Fuel Injector Selector Adapter Box
^ J 39021-306 Fuel Injector Test Harness
^ J 35800-A Fuel Injector Cleaner
^ Two pre-measured GM Top-Engine Cleaner Containers, 24 ml (0.812 oz) each, P/N 12346535,
U.S. USAGE ONLY. In Canada, use P/N 992872, 443.6 ml (15 oz) bottle. It will be necessary to
measure and dispense 48 ml (1.6 oz) of Top Engine-Cleaner into the J 35800-A, injector cleaning
tool. See Injector Cleaning Procedure below for further information.
1. Disconnect the 10-pin fuel rail electrical connector. Refer to the appropriate Service Information
Manual for connector location.
2. Connect the J 39021, fuel injector coil/balance tester, to the J 39021-210, fuel injector selector
adapter box.
3. Connect the J 39021-306, fuel injector test harness, to the engine 10-pin fuel rail electrical
connector. This allows you to test the fuel injectors without removing the upper intake plenum.
4. Using the injector tester, J 39021, perform an injector balance test. Use the J 39021-210 to
select each individual injector. Record the pressure drop of each injector.
5. Subtract the lowest pressure drop, leanest injector, from the highest pressure drop, richest
injector. If there is more than a 20 kPa (3 psi) difference between the lowest and highest pressure
drop, then the fuel injectors may be the cause of the driveability symptom. See the example tables
below to determine if cleaning is appropriate.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-06-04-005B > Sep > 01 > Fuel Injectors - Hard
Starts/Poor Driveability/Misfire > Page 5851
6. If there is a 20 kPa (3 psi) difference, or less, between the highest and lowest fuel pressure drop,
the fuel injectors are operating properly and further diagnostics should be performed on the vehicle.
Example One
Maximum Difference: 68-41 = 27 kPa (10-6 = 4 psi)
Although the pressure drop is greater than 20 kPa (3 psi), cylinder 2 stands out as being rich when
compared to the other injectors. Do not clean the injectors. Replace injector number 2. Charge time
to labor operation J5650.
Example Two
Maximum Difference: 48-23 = 25 kPa (7-3 = 4 psi) The pressure drop is greater than 20 kPa (3
psi). Injectors 1 and 3 appear to be lean when compared to injectors 2, 4, 5 and 6. Clean and
re-test pressure drop. If cleaning does not restore flow on injectors 1 or 3, replace the defective
injector or injectors as necessary. Charge time to labor operation J5650.
Injector Cleaning Procedure
1. Remove the J 39021-306, fuel injector test harness, and reconnect the 10-pin fuel rail electrical
connector.
Notice:
^ GM Top-Engine Cleaner is the only injector cleaning agent recommended. Do not use other
cleaning agents, as they may contain methanol which can damage fuel system components.
^ Under NO circumstances should the GM Top-Engine Cleaner be added to the vehicle fuel tank,
as it may damage the fuel pump and other system components.
Do not exceed a 10% cleaning solution concentration. Higher concentrations may damage fuel
system components.
2. For U.S. dealers, empty 2 pre-measured GM Top-Engine Cleaner containers, 24 ml (0.812 oz)
each, P/N 12346535, into the J 35800-A, injector cleaning tank. For Canadian Dealers, measure
and dispense 48 ml (1.62 oz) of Top-Engine Cleaner, P/N 992872, into the J 35800-A, injector
cleaning tank.
3. Fill the injector cleaning tank with regular unleaded gasoline. Be sure to follow all additional
instructions provided with the tool.
4. Electrically disable the vehicle fuel pump by removing the fuel pump relay and disconnecting the
oil pressure switch connector, if equipped.
5. Connect the J 35800-A to the vehicle fuel rail.
Notice:
Do not exceed 170 kPa (25 psi). Exceeding this pressure will allow the cleaning solution to flow
past the fuel pressure regulator and into the fuel tank , which may damage the fuel pump and other
system components.
6. Pressurize the J 35800-A to 170 kPa (25 psi).
7. Remove the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator and plug the vacuum hose.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-06-04-005B > Sep > 01 > Fuel Injectors - Hard
Starts/Poor Driveability/Misfire > Page 5852
8. Start and idle the engine until it stalls, due to lack of fuel. This should take approximately 15-20
minutes.
9. Disconnect J 35800-A from the fuel rail.
10. Reconnect the vehicle fuel pump relay and oil pressure switch connector, if equipped.
11. Reconnect the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator.
12. Start and idle the vehicle for an additional 2 minutes to ensure residual injector cleaner is
flushed from the fuel rail and fuel lines.
13. Repeat Steps 1-5 of the Injector Balance Test, and record the fuel pressure drop from each
injector.
14. Subtract the lowest fuel pressure drop from the highest fuel pressure drop. If the value is 15
kPa (2 psi) or less, no additional action is required. If the value is greater than 15 kPa (2 psi),
replace the injector assembly with the lowest fuel pressure drop. Follow injector replacement
procedures outlined in the appropriate Service Information manual for the vehicle.
15. Road test the vehicle to verify that the customer concern has been corrected.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 04-06-04-051B > Jan > 06 >
Fuel System - Fuel Injector Maintenance Cleaning
Fuel Injector: All Technical Service Bulletins Fuel System - Fuel Injector Maintenance Cleaning
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-051B
Date: January 04, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Maintenance Cleaning of Fuel Injectors
Models: 2006 and Prior All General Motors Passenger Cars and Trucks 2003-2006 HUMMER H2
2006 HUMMER H3
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years and update the name and part
number of GM Fuel System Treatment. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-06-04-051A
(Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
General Motors is aware that some companies are marketing tools, equipment and programs to
support fuel injector cleaning as a preventative maintenance procedure. General Motors does not
endorse, support or acknowledge the need for fuel injector cleaning as a preventative maintenance
procedure. Fuel injector cleaning is approved only when performed as directed by a published GM
driveability or DTC diagnostic service procedure.
Due to variation in fuel quality in different areas of the country, the only preventative maintenance
currently endorsed by GM regarding its gasoline engine fuel systems is the addition of GM Fuel
System Treatment PLUS, P/N 88861011 (for U.S. ACDelco(R), use P/N 88861013) (in Canada,
P/N 88861012), added to a tank of fuel at each oil change. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
03-06-04-030A for proper cleaning instructions.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 99-06-04-005B > Sep > 01 >
Fuel Injectors - Hard Starts/Poor Driveability/Misfire
Technical Service Bulletin # 99-06-04-005B Date: 010901
Fuel Injectors - Hard Starts/Poor Driveability/Misfire
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 99-06-04-005B
Date: September, 2001
TECHNICAL
Subject: Driveability Symptoms Due to Clogged Fuel Injectors (Clean Injectors)
Models: 1994-1996 Buick Regal 1994-1999 Buick Century 1994-1998 Buick Skylark 1994-1996
Chevrolet Corsica, Beretta 1995-1999 Chevrolet Lumina, Monte Carlo 1996 Lumina APV
1997-1999 Chevrolet Malibu, Venture 1994-1996 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1994-1997 Oldsmobile
Achieva, Cutlass Supreme 1996-1999 Oldsmobile Silhouette 1997-1998 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999
Oldsmobile Alero 1994-1999 Pontiac Grand Am, Grand Prix 1996-1998 Pontiac Trans Sport 1999
Pontiac Montana with 3.1 L or 3.4 L V6 Engine (VINs E, J, M - RPOs LA1, LG8, L82)
This bulletin is being revised to update labor time allowance for labor operation J5645.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-06-04-005A (Section 6 - Engine).
Condition
Some owners may comment on driveability symptoms of long or hard starts, chuggle, rough idle
and light or intermittent misfire. The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) may also illuminate.
Cause
Due to various factors, the fuel injectors may become restricted. At this point, no specific fuel, fuel
constituent, or engine condition has been identified as causing the restriction. The restriction
causes the engine to operate at a lean air fuel ratio. This may either trigger the MIL to illuminate or
the engine to develop various driveability symptoms.
Correction
Fuel injector restrictions, deposits, can be cleaned on the vehicle, using the following procedure.
Under NO circumstances should this procedure be modified, changed or shortened.
Notice:
^ The recommended mixture amount of GM Top-Engine Cleaner has been increased from 5% to
10%. This increase was implemented to improve the effectiveness of the injector cleaning
procedure. Follow the cleaning procedure carefully to minimize the risk of fuel system damage.
^ GM Top-Engine Cleaner is the only injector cleaning agent approved for use with General Motors
fuel system components. Other injector cleaners, while effective, may cause damage to plastics,
plated metals or bearings. General Motors has completed extensive laboratory testing of GM
Top-Engine Cleaner, and can assure its compatibility with General Motors fuel system
components, as long as the cleaning procedure is followed correctly.
Important:
This bulletin recommends the use of pre-measured containers of GM Top-Engine Cleaner, P/N
12346535, - U.S. USAGE ONLY.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 99-06-04-005B > Sep > 01 >
Fuel Injectors - Hard Starts/Poor Driveability/Misfire > Page 5862
Pre-measured containers eliminate the need to measure the amount of GM Top-Engine Cleaner
being added to the J 35800-A, injector cleaning tool. In Canada, use P/N 992872. It will be
necessary to measure and dispense Top Engine Cleaner into the J 35800-A, injector cleaning tool.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles serviced under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Injector Balance Test
The following tools or their equivalent are required:
^ J 39021 Fuel Injector Coil/Balance Tester
^ J 39021-210 Fuel Injector Selector Adapter Box
^ J 39021-306 Fuel Injector Test Harness
^ J 35800-A Fuel Injector Cleaner
^ Two pre-measured GM Top-Engine Cleaner Containers, 24 ml (0.812 oz) each, P/N 12346535,
U.S. USAGE ONLY. In Canada, use P/N 992872, 443.6 ml (15 oz) bottle. It will be necessary to
measure and dispense 48 ml (1.6 oz) of Top Engine-Cleaner into the J 35800-A, injector cleaning
tool. See Injector Cleaning Procedure below for further information.
1. Disconnect the 10-pin fuel rail electrical connector. Refer to the appropriate Service Information
Manual for connector location.
2. Connect the J 39021, fuel injector coil/balance tester, to the J 39021-210, fuel injector selector
adapter box.
3. Connect the J 39021-306, fuel injector test harness, to the engine 10-pin fuel rail electrical
connector. This allows you to test the fuel injectors without removing the upper intake plenum.
4. Using the injector tester, J 39021, perform an injector balance test. Use the J 39021-210 to
select each individual injector. Record the pressure drop of each injector.
5. Subtract the lowest pressure drop, leanest injector, from the highest pressure drop, richest
injector. If there is more than a 20 kPa (3 psi) difference between the lowest and highest pressure
drop, then the fuel injectors may be the cause of the driveability symptom. See the example tables
below to determine if cleaning is appropriate.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 99-06-04-005B > Sep > 01 >
Fuel Injectors - Hard Starts/Poor Driveability/Misfire > Page 5863
6. If there is a 20 kPa (3 psi) difference, or less, between the highest and lowest fuel pressure drop,
the fuel injectors are operating properly and further diagnostics should be performed on the vehicle.
Example One
Maximum Difference: 68-41 = 27 kPa (10-6 = 4 psi)
Although the pressure drop is greater than 20 kPa (3 psi), cylinder 2 stands out as being rich when
compared to the other injectors. Do not clean the injectors. Replace injector number 2. Charge time
to labor operation J5650.
Example Two
Maximum Difference: 48-23 = 25 kPa (7-3 = 4 psi) The pressure drop is greater than 20 kPa (3
psi). Injectors 1 and 3 appear to be lean when compared to injectors 2, 4, 5 and 6. Clean and
re-test pressure drop. If cleaning does not restore flow on injectors 1 or 3, replace the defective
injector or injectors as necessary. Charge time to labor operation J5650.
Injector Cleaning Procedure
1. Remove the J 39021-306, fuel injector test harness, and reconnect the 10-pin fuel rail electrical
connector.
Notice:
^ GM Top-Engine Cleaner is the only injector cleaning agent recommended. Do not use other
cleaning agents, as they may contain methanol which can damage fuel system components.
^ Under NO circumstances should the GM Top-Engine Cleaner be added to the vehicle fuel tank,
as it may damage the fuel pump and other system components.
Do not exceed a 10% cleaning solution concentration. Higher concentrations may damage fuel
system components.
2. For U.S. dealers, empty 2 pre-measured GM Top-Engine Cleaner containers, 24 ml (0.812 oz)
each, P/N 12346535, into the J 35800-A, injector cleaning tank. For Canadian Dealers, measure
and dispense 48 ml (1.62 oz) of Top-Engine Cleaner, P/N 992872, into the J 35800-A, injector
cleaning tank.
3. Fill the injector cleaning tank with regular unleaded gasoline. Be sure to follow all additional
instructions provided with the tool.
4. Electrically disable the vehicle fuel pump by removing the fuel pump relay and disconnecting the
oil pressure switch connector, if equipped.
5. Connect the J 35800-A to the vehicle fuel rail.
Notice:
Do not exceed 170 kPa (25 psi). Exceeding this pressure will allow the cleaning solution to flow
past the fuel pressure regulator and into the fuel tank , which may damage the fuel pump and other
system components.
6. Pressurize the J 35800-A to 170 kPa (25 psi).
7. Remove the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator and plug the vacuum hose.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 99-06-04-005B > Sep > 01 >
Fuel Injectors - Hard Starts/Poor Driveability/Misfire > Page 5864
8. Start and idle the engine until it stalls, due to lack of fuel. This should take approximately 15-20
minutes.
9. Disconnect J 35800-A from the fuel rail.
10. Reconnect the vehicle fuel pump relay and oil pressure switch connector, if equipped.
11. Reconnect the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator.
12. Start and idle the vehicle for an additional 2 minutes to ensure residual injector cleaner is
flushed from the fuel rail and fuel lines.
13. Repeat Steps 1-5 of the Injector Balance Test, and record the fuel pressure drop from each
injector.
14. Subtract the lowest fuel pressure drop from the highest fuel pressure drop. If the value is 15
kPa (2 psi) or less, no additional action is required. If the value is greater than 15 kPa (2 psi),
replace the injector assembly with the lowest fuel pressure drop. Follow injector replacement
procedures outlined in the appropriate Service Information manual for the vehicle.
15. Road test the vehicle to verify that the customer concern has been corrected.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 04-06-04-051B > Jan > 06 > Fuel
System - Fuel Injector Maintenance Cleaning
Fuel Injector: All Technical Service Bulletins Fuel System - Fuel Injector Maintenance Cleaning
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-051B
Date: January 04, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Maintenance Cleaning of Fuel Injectors
Models: 2006 and Prior All General Motors Passenger Cars and Trucks 2003-2006 HUMMER H2
2006 HUMMER H3
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years and update the name and part
number of GM Fuel System Treatment. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-06-04-051A
(Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
General Motors is aware that some companies are marketing tools, equipment and programs to
support fuel injector cleaning as a preventative maintenance procedure. General Motors does not
endorse, support or acknowledge the need for fuel injector cleaning as a preventative maintenance
procedure. Fuel injector cleaning is approved only when performed as directed by a published GM
driveability or DTC diagnostic service procedure.
Due to variation in fuel quality in different areas of the country, the only preventative maintenance
currently endorsed by GM regarding its gasoline engine fuel systems is the addition of GM Fuel
System Treatment PLUS, P/N 88861011 (for U.S. ACDelco(R), use P/N 88861013) (in Canada,
P/N 88861012), added to a tank of fuel at each oil change. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
03-06-04-030A for proper cleaning instructions.
Disclaimer
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Fuel Injector: Electrical Specifications
Voltage
Voltage ECT between 50-95 degrees F (10-35 degrees C)
Injector Voltage Reading 4.7- 5.8 Volts
Please refer to Fuel Injector Coil Test procedure at
Computers and Contol Systems Testing.
Resistance Ohms
Resistance Ohms ECT between 50 - 95 degrees F (10 - 35 degrees C)
Ohms 11.8-12.6
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Fuel Injector: Pressure, Vacuum and Temperature Specifications Fuel Injector Pressure Drop
Fuel Injector Pressure Drop If the pressure drop value for each injector is within 1.5 psi of the
average drop value the fuel injectors are flowing properly.
Pressure Drop 1.5 psi
Fuel Injector Balance Test Example (Typical)
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Fuel Injector: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Fuel Injector: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5906
Fuel Injector: Connector Views
Fuel Injector
Fuel Injector #1
Fuel Injector #2
Fuel Injector #3
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5907
Fuel Injector #4
Fuel Injector #5
Fuel Injector #6
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5908
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Service Precautions > Technician Safety Information
Fuel Injector: Technician Safety Information
WARNING: In order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury that may result from a fuel leak,
always install the fuel injector O-Rings in the proper position. If the upper and lower O-Rings are
different colors (black and brown), be sure to install the black O-Ring in the upper position and the
brown O-Ring in the lower position on the fuel injector. The O-Rings are the same size but are
made of different materials.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Service Precautions > Technician Safety Information > Page 5911
Fuel Injector: Vehicle Damage Warnings
CAUTION: Use care in removing the fuel injectors to prevent damage to the fuel injector electrical
connector pins or the fuel injector nozzles. The fuel injector is an electrical component and should
not be immersed in any type of cleaner as damage to the fuel injector may result.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Service Precautions > Page 5912
Fuel Injector: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The Sequential Multipoint Fuel Injection (SFI) fuel injector is a solenoid (3) operated device
controlled by the PCM. The PCM energizes the solenoid which opens a valve (1) to allow fuel
delivery onto the director plate (2). The fuel is injected under pressure in a conical spray pattern at
the opening of the intake valve. Excess fuel not used by the injectors passes through the fuel
pressure regulator before being returned to the fuel tank. When the PCM energizes the injector
coil, a normally closed valve ball opens, allowing fuel to flow past a director plate to the injector
outlet. A fuel injector which is stuck partly open will cause a loss of fuel pressure after engine shut
down, causing long crank times to be noticed on some engines.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Service Precautions > Page 5913
Fuel Injector: Testing and Inspection
Most GM manufacturers now use a voltage drop and/or a fuel pressure drop test to measure Fuel
Injector Coil Integrity.
These test sequences can be found in Computers and Control Systems, under A, C or System
Diagnostic Charts. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
Within these tests you might find an "Ohm" reading of the Injector, but generally this measurement
is No Longer Used to solely determine the Pass/Fail quality of the Injector coil.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Service Precautions > Page 5914
Fuel Injector: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
CAUTION: Use care in removing the fuel injectors to prevent damage to the fuel injector electrical
connector pins or the fuel injector nozzles. The fuel injector is an electrical component and should
not be immersed in any type of cleaner as damage to the fuel injector may result.
NOTE: Important the fuel injector is serviced as a complete assembly only. If the fuel injectors are
found to be leaking, the engine oil may be contaminated with fuel.
1. Relieve fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel Pressure Release. 2. Remove the upper intake
manifold. Refer to Intake Air Plenum. 3. Remove the fuel rail. Refer to Fuel Rail Assembly. 4.
Remove the fuel injector retaining clips (2). 5. Remove the fuel injectors (3). 6. Remove the fuel
injector Upper O-ring (1). 7. Remove the fuel injector lower O-ring (5). 8. Remove the fuel injector
lower O-ring Backup (4).
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Important each fuel injector is calibrated for a specific flow rate. Be sure to use the correct
part number when ordering replacement fuel injectors. When replacing the fuel injector O-Rings, be
sure to install the brown O-Ring in the lower position. The fuel injector lower O-Ring uses a nylon
collar, called the O-Ring backup, to properly position the O-Ring on the fuel injector. Be sure to
reinstall the O-Ring backup, or the sealing O-Ring may move on the fuel injector when installing the
fuel rail. If the sealing O-Ring is not seated properly, a vacuum leak is possible and driveability
complaints may occur.
1. Install the fuel injector Upper O-ring (1). 2. Install the fuel injector lower O-ring Backup (4). 3.
Install the fuel injector lower O-ring (5). 4. Install the fuel injector (3) to fuel rail. 5. Install the fuel
injector retaining clips (2). 6. Install the fuel rail. Refer to Fuel Rail Assembly. 7. Install the upper
intake manifold. Refer to Intake Air Plenum. 8. Install the fuel filler cap. 9. Inspect for fuel leaks
through the following steps:
9.1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for two seconds. 9.2. Turn the ignition switch to the
OFF position for ten seconds. 9.3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. 9.4. Check for fuel
leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Quick-Connect Fittings <-->
[Fuel Line Coupler] > Component Information > Service Precautions
Quick-Connect Fittings: Service Precautions
WARNING: To Reduce the Risk of Fire and Personal Injury:
Always cover nylon fuel pipes with a wet towel before using a torch near them. Also, never expose
the vehicle to temperatures higher then 115° C (239° F) for more than one hour, or more than 90°
C (194° F) for any extended period.
Take care not to nick or scratch the nylon fuel pipes. If damaged, they must be replaced
.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Quick-Connect Fittings <-->
[Fuel Line Coupler] > Component Information > Service Precautions > Page 5918
Quick-Connect Fittings: Description and Operation
Quick-Connect Fittings
QUICK-CONNECT FITTINGS
Quick-connect type fittings provide a simplified means of installing and connecting fuel system
components. There are two types of quick-connect fittings used at different locations in the fuel
system. Each type consists of a unique female socket and a compatible male connector. O-rings,
located inside the female socket, provide the fuel seal. Integral locking tabs or fingers hold the
fittings together.
FUEL PIPE 0-RINGS
Fuel feed and return pipe threaded connections at the fuel rail and fuel filter are sealed with
replaceable O-ring seals. These O-rings seals are made of special material, and should only be
serviced with the correct service part.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Quick-Connect Fittings <-->
[Fuel Line Coupler] > Component Information > Service and Repair > Servicing Quick-Connect Fittings
Quick-Connect Fittings: Service and Repair Servicing Quick-Connect Fittings
Quick-Connect Fittings
Removal Procedure
Tools Required ^
J37O88 Tool Set, Fuel Line Quick-Connect Separator.
Important: Relieve the fuel system pressure before servicing any fuel system connection. Refer to
the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Quick-Connect Fittings <-->
[Fuel Line Coupler] > Component Information > Service and Repair > Servicing Quick-Connect Fittings > Page 5921
1. Slide the dust cover from the quick-connect fitting. 2. Grasp both sides of the fitting. Twist the
female connector 1/4 turn in each direction to loosen any dint within the fitting.
Caution: Wear safety glasses when using compressed air, as flying dirt particles may cause eye
injury.
3. Blow dirt out of the fitting using compressed air. 4. Choose the correct tool from J37O88 Tool Set
for the size of the fitting. Insert the tool into the female connector, then push inward to release the
locking tabs.
5. Pull the connection apart.
Notice: If it is necessary to remove rust or burrs from a fuel pipe, use emery cloth in a radial motion
with the pipe end in order to prevent damage to the O-ring sealing surface.
6. Using a clean shop towel, wipe off the male pipe end. 7. Inspect both ends of the fitting for dirt
and burrs. Clean or replace the components as required.
Installation Procedure
Caution: To Reduce the Risk of Fire and Personal Injury. Before connecting the fitting, always
apply a few drops of clean engine oil to the male pipe end. This will ensure proper reconnection
and prevent a possible fuel leak (During normal operation, the O-rings located in the female
connector will swell and may prevent proper reconnection if not lubricated.
1. Apply a few drops of clean engine oil to the male pipe end. 2. Push both sides of the fitting
together to cause the retaining tabs to snap into place. 3. Once installed, pull on both sides of the
fitting to make sure the connection is secure. 4. Reposition the dust cover over the quick-connect
fitting.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Quick-Connect Fittings <-->
[Fuel Line Coupler] > Component Information > Service and Repair > Servicing Quick-Connect Fittings > Page 5922
Quick-Connect Fittings: Service and Repair Servicing Quick-Connect Fittings (Hand Release)
Removal Procedure
1. Grasp both sides of the quick-connect fitting. Twist the female connector 1/4 turn in each
direction in order to loosen any dirt within the
quick-connect fitting.
Caution: Wear safety glasses when using compressed air because flying dirt particles may cause
eye injury.
2. Using compressed air, blow any dirt out of the quick-connect fitting. 3. Squeeze the plastic
retainer release tabs. 4. Pull the connection apart.
Installation Procedure
Caution: In order to Reduce the Risk of Fire and Personal Injury: Before connecting the fuel pipe
quick-connect fitting, always apply a few drops of clean engine oil to the male fuel pipe end. This
will ensure a proper re-connection and prevent a possible fuel leak (During normal operation, the
O-rings in the female connector will swell, which may prevent a proper reconnection if not
lubricated).
1. Apply a few drops of clean engine oil to the male fuel pipe end. 2. Push both sides of the
quick-connect fitting together in order to cause the retaining tabs/fingers to snap into place. 3. Once
installed, pull on both sides of the quick-connect fitting in order to make sure the connection s
secure.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Regulator >
Component Information > Specifications
Fuel Pressure Regulator: Specifications
Fuel return pipe nut .............................................................................................................................
......................................................... 17 Nm (13 lb ft) Fuel pressure regulator attaching screw
...................................................................................................................................................... 8.5
Nm (76 lb in)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Regulator >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 5926
Fuel Pressure Regulator: Description and Operation
Fuel Pressure Regulator Assembly
DESCRIPTION
The fuel pressure regulator is a diaphragm-operated relief valve with fuel pump pressure on one
side and manifold pressure on the other. The function of the fuel pressure regulator is to maintain
the fuel pressure available to the fuel injectors at 3 times barometric pressure, adjusted for engine
load.
The fuel pressure regulator is mounted on the fuel rail and may be serviced separately.
If the fuel pressure is too low, poor performance and DTC P0171 could result. If the pressure is too
high, excessive odor and/or DTC P0172 may result. Refer to Fuel System Pressure Test / System
Diagnostic Tables for information on diagnosing fuel pressure conditions. See: Computers and
Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Regulator >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 5927
Fuel Pressure Regulator: Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Regulator Service
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Perform Fuel Pressure Release procedure. 2. Remove the upper intake manifold. 3. Remove the
fuel pressure regulator vacuum line. 4. Remove the fuel pressure regulator retaining screw. 5.
Using a shop towel to catch any spilled fuel, lift and twist the fuel pressure regulator in order to
remove the fuel pressure regulator from the fuel
rail.
6. Remove the retainer and spacer bracket from rail and discard. 7. Remove the fuel pressure
regulator from engine fuel return pipe. 8. Remove the fuel pressure regulator inlet O-Ring and
discard.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
WARNING: The fuel return line must be connected before tightening the regulator attaching screw
to prevent the regulator from rotating. Rotation of the regulator could damage the retainer and
spacer bracket and lead to a fuel leak at the regulator inlet.
CAUTION: ^
Compressed air must never be used to test or clean a fuel pressure regulator, as damage to the
fuel pressure regulator may result.
^ If needed, the fuel pressure regulator filter screen should be cleaned with gasoline.
^ The fuel pressure regulator should not be immersed in solvent in order to prevent damage to the
fuel pressure regulator.
1. Filter screen for contamination. If contaminated, remove and discard filter screen. 2. Lubricate
new pressure regulator inlet O-Ring with clean engine oil and install on regulator inlet. 3. Install the
fuel return pipe to regulator. 4. Install the new retainer and spacer bracket into slot on fuel rail. 5.
Install the pressure regulator to fuel rail.
Tighten Nut to 17 Nm (13 lb. ft.).
6. Install the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line. 7. Install the pressure regulator attaching screw.
Tighten Screw to 8.5 Nm (76 lb in.).
8. Inspect and verify that retainer and spacer bracket is engaged in slots in fuel rail. Grasp and pull
on regulator to ensure that it is properly seated. 9. Install the upper intake manifold.
10. Install the fuel filler cap. 11. Check for fuel leaks.
- Turn ignition to ON position for 2 seconds.
- Then turn to OFF for 10 seconds.
- Turn the ignition to ON position.
- Check for fuel leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Sensor/Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams
Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Test Port >
Component Information > Locations
Fuel Pressure Test Port: Locations
The Fuel Pressure Test Port is located on the fuel rail.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pressure >
Fuel Pressure Test Port > Component Information > Locations
Fuel Pressure Test Port: Locations
The Fuel Pressure Test Port is located on the fuel rail.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump
Control Unit > Component Information > Diagrams
Fuel Tank Module
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Locations
Fuel Pump Relay: Locations
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Left Side Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Fuel Pump Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5947
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5948
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5949
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5950
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5951
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5952
Fuel Pump Relay: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5953
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5954
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5955
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5969
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5970
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5971
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5972
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5973
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5974
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5975
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5976
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5977
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5978
Fuel Pump Relay: Description and Operation
FUEL PUMP ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT
When the key is first turned ON the PCM energizes the fuel pump relay for two seconds to build up
the fuel pressure quickly. If the engine is not started within two seconds, the PCM shuts the fuel
pump OFF and waits until the engine is cranked. When the engine is cranked and the RPM signal
has been detected by the PCM, the PCM supplies 12 volts to the fuel pump relay to energize the
electric in-tank fuel pump.
As a backup system to the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump can also be energized by the fuel pump
and engine oil pressure indicator switch. The normally open switch closes when oil pressure
reaches about 28 kPa (4 psi). If the fuel pump relay fails, the fuel pump and engine oil pressure
indicator switch will close and run the fuel pump.
An inoperative fuel pump relay can result in a no start condition. An inoperative fuel pump would
cause a no start condition. A fuel pump which does not provide enough pressure can result in poor
performance.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5979
Fuel Pump Relay: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the underhood electrical center cover. 2. Remove the fuel pump relay (1).
Installation Procedure
1. Install the fuel pump relay (1). 2. Install the underhood electrical center cover.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Pickup Filter >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Fuel Pump Pickup Filter: Description and Operation
Fuel Strainer
A woven plastic strainer is located on the lower end of the fuel sender. This filter prevents dirt from
entering the fuel line and also stops water unless the filter becomes completely submerged in
water. This filter is self cleaning and normally requires no maintenance. Fuel stoppage at this point
indicates that the fuel tank contains an abnormal amount of sediment or water. Therefore, should
this occur, the fuel tank should be removed and thoroughly cleaned and the tank filter replaced.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Rail > Component
Information > Specifications
Fuel Rail: Specifications
Fuel rail attaching bolt .........................................................................................................................
........................................................ 10 Nm (7 lb. ft.) Engine fuel pipe nut ..........................................
......................................................................................................................................... 17 Nm (13
lb. ft.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Rail > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 5986
Fuel Rail: Application and ID
Fuel Rail Assembly Identification
An eight digit identification number is stamped on the left hand fuel rail (fueling even cylinders 2, 4,
6). Refer to this number if servicing or part replacement is required.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Rail > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 5987
Fuel Rail: Description and Operation
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
The fuel rail assembly is made up of the left hand rail (5), which delivers fuel to the even cylinders
(2, 4, 6); the right hand rail (1), which delivers fuel to the odd cylinders (1, 3, 5); the fuel injectors
(4); and the fuel pressure regulator assembly (3). The rail assembly is mounted to the lower section
of the intake manifold and distributes fuel to the cylinders through the individual injectors.
Fuel is delivered from the pump through the fuel feed pipe to the inlet fitting (2) on the fuel rail. Fuel
then flows through the fuel rail to the fuel pressure regulator. The fuel pressure regulator maintains
constant fuel pressure at the fuel injectors. Remaining fuel then flows through the fuel return pipe
back to the tank.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Rail > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 5988
Fuel Rail: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
An eight digit identification number is stamped on the left hand fuel rail (fueling even cylinders
2,4,6), Refer to this number if servicing or part replacement is required).
WARNING: In order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury that may result from a fuel leak,
always install the fuel injector O-Rings in the proper position. If the upper and lower O-Rings are
different colors (black and brown), be sure to install the black O-Ring in the upper position and the
brown O-Ring in the lower position on the fuel injector. The O-Rings are the same size but are
made of different materials.
CAUTION: Important when servicing the fuel rail assembly, precautions must be taken to prevent
dirt and other contaminants from entering the fuel passages. It is recommended that the fittings be
capped, and the holes be plugged during servicing.
1. Perform Fuel Pressure Release procedure. 2. Remove the upper intake manifold. 3. Remove the
engine fuel feed pipe at fuel rail. 4. Remove the fuel pressure regulator from fuel rail. Refer to Fuel
Pressure Regulator. 5. Remove the fuel inlet pipe and fuel pressure regulator O-Rings and discard.
6. Remove the main injector harness electrical connector. 7. Remove the coolant temperature
sensor electrical connector. 8. Remove the fuel rail retaining bolts. 9. Remove the fuel rail
assembly.
10. Remove the injector O-Ring seal from spray tip end of each injector. Discard seals. With the
O-Ring removed, the O-Ring backup may slip off of
the injector. Be sure to retain the O-Ring backup for reuse,
INSTALL OR CONNECT
CAUTION:
^ Care must be taken not to damage/dirty the fuel injector electrical connectors, the fuel injector
tips, the O-Rings, and the inlet and the outlet of the fuel rail.
^ Compressed air must not be used to clean the fuel rail assembly, as this may damage the fuel rail
components.
^ The fuel rail assembly must not be immersed in solvent in order to prevent damage to the fuel rail
assembly.
1. Ensure that O-Ring backups are on injectors before installing new O-Rings. Lubricate new
injector O-Ring seals with clean engine oil and install
on spray tip end of each injector.
2. Install The fuel rail assembly in intake manifold. Tilt rail assembly to install injectors. 3. Install the
fuel rail attaching bolts.
- Tighten the fuel rail attaching bolt to 10 Nm (7 lb. ft.).
4. Install the coolant temperature sensor electrical connector. 5. Install the main injector harness
electrical connector. 6. Install the new O-Rings on fuel rail inlet line and fuel pressure regulator. 7.
Install the fuel feed pipe.
- Tighten the engine fuel pipe nut to 17 Nm (13 lb. ft.).
8. Install the fuel pressure regulator. 9. Install the upper intake manifold.
10. Install the fuel filler cap.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Specifications
Fuel Return Line: Specifications
Fuel pipe mounting bolts .....................................................................................................................
....................................................... 6.0 Nm (53 lb in) Exhaust shield bolt ...........................................
.......................................................................................................................................... 2.0 Nm (18
lb in) Exhaust shield nuts .....................................................................................................................
.................................................................. 1.0 Nm (9 lb in) Engine fuel pipe fittings ...........................
.................................................................................................................................................... 17
Nm (13 lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 5992
Fuel Return Line: Service Precautions
WARNING: To Reduce the Risk of Fire and Personal Injury:
Always cover nylon fuel pipes with a wet towel before using a torch near them. Also, never expose
the vehicle to temperatures higher then 115° C (239° F) for more than one hour, or more than 90°
C (194° F) for any extended period.
Take care not to nick or scratch the nylon fuel pipes. If damaged, they must be replaced
.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Fuel Pipe O-Rings
Fuel Return Line: Description and Operation Fuel Pipe O-Rings
Fuel feed and return pipe threaded connections at the fuel rail and fuel filter are sealed with
replaceable O-ring seals. These O-rings seals are made of special material, and should only be
serviced with the correct service part.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Fuel Pipe O-Rings > Page 5995
Fuel Return Line: Description and Operation Nylon Fuel Pipes
Caution: To Reduce the Risk of Fire and Personal injury:
^ Always cover nylon vapor pipes with a wet towel before using a torch near them. Also, never
expose the vehicle to temperatures higher than 115°C (239 °F) for more than one hour, or more
than 90°C (194 °F) for any extended period.
^ Take care not to nick or scratch the nylon vapor pipes. If damaged, replace the nylon vapor
pipes.
Nylon fuel pipes are designed to perform the same job as the steel or rubber fuel lines that they
replace. The nylon pipes are constructed to withstand the maximum fuel system pressure,
exposure to fuel additives and changes in temperature. There are two sizes used: 318" ID for the
fuel feed, and 5/16" ID for the fuel return and are used on the modular sender. The nylon fuel pipes
are somewhat flexible and can be formed around gradual turns. However, if forced into sharp
bends, the nylon pipes will kink and restrict the fuel flow. Also, once exposed to fuel, the nylon
pipes may become stiffer and are more likely to kink if bent too far. Take special care when working
on a vehicle with nylon pipes.
Quick-Connect Fittings
Quick-connect fittings provide a simplified means of installing and connecting fuel system
components. The fittings consist of a unique female connector and a compatible male pipe end.
O-rings, located inside the female connector, provide the fuel seal. Integral locking tabs or fingers
hold the fittings together.
Fuel Pipe O-Rings
Fuel feed and return pipe threaded connections at the fuel rail and fuel filter are sealed with
replaceable O-ring seals. These O-rings seals are made of special material, and should only be
serviced with the correct service part.
Fuel Vapor Pipe and Hoses
The fuel vapor line is made up of nylon line, steel pipe, and quick connectors. The vapor pipe, line,
and hoses carry fuel vapors from the fuel tank to the charcoal canister. The fuel vapor line has a
Evaporative System Service Port located between the purge solenoid and the charcoal canister.
The vapor lines extend from the fuel sender to the canister. However, it does not follow the same
route as the fuel feed pipe. Under no conditions use copper or aluminum tubing to replace steel
tubing. Those materials do not have satisfactory durability to withstand normal vehicle vibrations
and corrosion.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Engine Fuel Pipes
Fuel Return Line: Service and Repair Engine Fuel Pipes
Removal Procedure
Tools Required J 37088 tool set, Fuel Pipe Quick-Connect Separator.
Notice: Do Not attempt to repair the engine fuel feed pipe or the engine fuel return pipe. If the
engine fuel feed pipe or the engine fuel return pipe is damaged, replace it.
1. Relieve the fuel system fuel pressure. Refer to Fuel Pressure Release. 2. Clean all engine fuel
pipe connections and areas surrounding the engine fuel pipe connections before disconnecting the
engine fuel pipe
connections to avoid possible contamination of the fuel system.
3. Remove the quick-connect fittings in the engine compartment. Refer to Servicing Quick Connect
Fittings. See: Quick-Connect Fittings/Service
and Repair
4. Plug the chassis fuel feed pipe and the chassis fuel return pipe as required. 5. Remove the
upper intake manifold assembly. Refer to Intake Air Plenum. 6. Remove the engine fuel return pipe
from the fuel pressure regulator. Discard the O-ring. 7. Remove the engine fuel feed pipe from the
fuel rail. Discard the O-ring.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Engine Fuel Pipes > Page 5998
Installation Procedure
1. Lubricate the new O-ring with clean engine oil, then connect the O-ring and the engine fuel
return pipe to the fuel pressure regulator. 2. Lubricate the new O-ring with clean engine oil, then
connect the O-ring and the engine fuel feed pipe to the fuel rail.
Tighten ^
Tighten the engine fuel pipe fittings to 17 Nm (13 lb ft).
3. Install the upper intake manifold assembly. Refer to Intake Air Plenum. 4. Install the
quick-connect fittings in the engine compartment. Refer to Servicing Quick Connect Fittings. See:
Quick-Connect Fittings/Service and
Repair
5. Tighten the fuel tank filler pipe cap. 6. Install the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Engine Fuel Pipes > Page 5999
Fuel Return Line: Service and Repair Chassis to Fuel Sender Pipes / Hoses
Removal Procedure
Notice: If it is necessary to remove rust or burns from a fuel pipe use emery cloth in a radial motion
with the pipe end in order to prevent damage to the O-ring sealing surface.
1. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel Pressure Release. 2. Remove the fuel feed pipe
quick-connect fitting at the engine compartment. Refer to Servicing Quick Connect Fittings. 3.
Remove the fuel return pipe quick-connect fitting at the engine compartment. Refer to Servicing
Quick Connect Fittings. See: Quick-Connect
Fittings/Service and Repair
4. Plug the fuel lines to prevent leakage. 5. Raise the vehicle. 6. Remove the fuel feed pipe
quick-connect fitting at the in-pipe fuel filter. Refer to Servicing Quick Connect Fittings. See:
Quick-Connect
Fittings/Service and Repair
7. Remove the fuel return pipe quick-connect fitting at the fuel tank Refer to Servicing Quick
Connect Fittings. See: Quick-Connect
Fittings/Service and Repair
8. Plug the fuel lines to prevent leakage. 9. Remove the exhaust heat shield.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Engine Fuel Pipes > Page 6000
10. Remove the fuel pipe mounting bolts from the body clips.
In the repairable areas, cut a piece of fuel hose 100 mm (4 in) longer than portion of the line
removed. If more than a 152 mm (6 in) length of pipe is removed, use a combination of steel pipe
and hose so that hose lengths will not be more than 254 mm (10 in), including hose overlap on fuel
line.
11. Remove the fuel pipes from the body clips. 12. Remove the fuel pipes (1) to be serviced.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the fuel pipe (1) and hose hardware. 2. Position the fuel pipe in the body clips. 3. Install
the fuel pipe mounting bolts into the body clips.
Tighten ^
Tighten the bolts to 6.0 Nm (53 lb in).
4. Install the exhaust heat shield.
Tighten
- Tighten the exhaust shield bolt to 2.0 Nm (18 lb in).
- Tighten the exhaust shield nuts to 1.0 Nm (9 lb in).
5. Remove the caps on the lines. 6. Install the fuel feed pipe quick-connect fitting at the in-pipe fuel
filter. Refer to Servicing Quick Connect Fittings. See: Quick-Connect
Fittings/Service and Repair
7. Install the fuel return pipe quick-connect fitting at the fuel tank. Refer to Servicing Quick Connect
Fittings. See: Quick-Connect
Fittings/Service and Repair
8. Lower the vehicle. 9. Remove the caps on the fuel lines.
10. Install the fuel feed pipe quick-connect fitting at the engine compartment. Refer to Servicing
Quick Connect Fittings. See: Quick-Connect
Fittings/Service and Repair
11. Install the fuel return pipe quick-connect fitting at the engine compartment Refer to Servicing
Quick Connect Fittings. See: Quick-Connect
Fittings/Service and Repair
12. Install the fuel filler cap. 13. Connect the negative battery cable. 14. Inspect for fuel leaks
through the following steps:
14.1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for two seconds. 14.2. Turn the ignition switch to
the OFF position for ten seconds. 14.3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. 14.4. Check for
fuel leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Engine Fuel Pipes > Page 6001
Fuel Return Line: Service and Repair Fuel Hoses/Chassis
Removal Procedure
Caution: To Reduce the Risk of Fire and Personal Injury:
^ Always cover nylon vapor pipes with a wet towel before using a torch near them. Also, never
expose the vehicle to temperatures higher than 115°C (239°F) for more than one hour or more
than 90°C (194°F) for any extended period.
^ Take care not to nick or scratch the nylon vapor pipes. If damaged, replace the nylon vapor
pipes.
Notice: When replacing the EVAP pipes or the EVAP hoses, always replace them with the original
equipment or parts that meet the GM specifications for those parts. When replacing EVAP pipes,
the replacement pipe must have the same type of fittings as the original pipe to ensure the integrity
of the connection. When replacing EVAP hoses, use only reinforced fuel-resistant hose identified
with the word Fluoroelastomer or GM 616-M on the hose. The inside hose diameter must match
the outside pipe diameter. Do Not use rubber hose within 100 mm (4 in) of any part of the exhaust
system or within 254 mm (10 in) of the catalytic converter.
1. Remove the retaining hardware and clamp as necessary. 2. Note location and position for future
reference. 3. Inspect hoses and vapor lines for cuts, swelling, cracks, kinks and distortion. 4.
Remove the pipe or hose.
Installation Procedure
Important: Follow the same routing as original pipe or hose.
1. Install the vapor line or hose. 2. Install the retaining hardware and clamps.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Specifications
Fuel Supply Line: Specifications
Fuel pipe mounting bolts .....................................................................................................................
....................................................... 6.0 Nm (53 lb in) Exhaust shield bolt ...........................................
.......................................................................................................................................... 2.0 Nm (18
lb in) Exhaust shield nuts .....................................................................................................................
.................................................................. 1.0 Nm (9 lb in) Engine fuel pipe fittings ...........................
.................................................................................................................................................... 17
Nm (13 lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 6005
Fuel Supply Line: Service Precautions
WARNING: To Reduce the Risk of Fire and Personal Injury:
Always cover nylon fuel pipes with a wet towel before using a torch near them. Also, never expose
the vehicle to temperatures higher then 115° C (239° F) for more than one hour, or more than 90°
C (194° F) for any extended period.
Take care not to nick or scratch the nylon fuel pipes. If damaged, they must be replaced
.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Fuel Pipe O-Rings
Fuel Supply Line: Description and Operation Fuel Pipe O-Rings
Fuel feed and return pipe threaded connections at the fuel rail and fuel filter are sealed with
replaceable O-ring seals. These O-rings seals are made of special material, and should only be
serviced with the correct service part.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Fuel Pipe O-Rings > Page 6008
Fuel Supply Line: Description and Operation Nylon Fuel Pipes
Caution: To Reduce the Risk of Fire and Personal injury:
^ Always cover nylon vapor pipes with a wet towel before using a torch near them. Also, never
expose the vehicle to temperatures higher than 115°C (239 °F) for more than one hour, or more
than 90°C (194 °F) for any extended period.
^ Take care not to nick or scratch the nylon vapor pipes. If damaged, replace the nylon vapor
pipes.
Nylon fuel pipes are designed to perform the same job as the steel or rubber fuel lines that they
replace. The nylon pipes are constructed to withstand the maximum fuel system pressure,
exposure to fuel additives and changes in temperature. There are two sizes used: 318" ID for the
fuel feed, and 5/16" ID for the fuel return and are used on the modular sender. The nylon fuel pipes
are somewhat flexible and can be formed around gradual turns. However, if forced into sharp
bends, the nylon pipes will kink and restrict the fuel flow. Also, once exposed to fuel, the nylon
pipes may become stiffer and are more likely to kink if bent too far. Take special care when working
on a vehicle with nylon pipes.
Quick-Connect Fittings
Quick-connect fittings provide a simplified means of installing and connecting fuel system
components. The fittings consist of a unique female connector and a compatible male pipe end.
O-rings, located inside the female connector, provide the fuel seal. Integral locking tabs or fingers
hold the fittings together.
Fuel Pipe O-Rings
Fuel feed and return pipe threaded connections at the fuel rail and fuel filter are sealed with
replaceable O-ring seals. These O-rings seals are made of special material, and should only be
serviced with the correct service part.
Fuel Vapor Pipe and Hoses
The fuel vapor line is made up of nylon line, steel pipe, and quick connectors. The vapor pipe, line,
and hoses carry fuel vapors from the fuel tank to the charcoal canister. The fuel vapor line has a
Evaporative System Service Port located between the purge solenoid and the charcoal canister.
The vapor lines extend from the fuel sender to the canister. However, it does not follow the same
route as the fuel feed pipe. Under no conditions use copper or aluminum tubing to replace steel
tubing. Those materials do not have satisfactory durability to withstand normal vehicle vibrations
and corrosion.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Engine Fuel Pipes
Fuel Supply Line: Service and Repair Engine Fuel Pipes
Removal Procedure
Tools Required J 37088 tool set, Fuel Pipe Quick-Connect Separator.
Notice: Do Not attempt to repair the engine fuel feed pipe or the engine fuel return pipe. If the
engine fuel feed pipe or the engine fuel return pipe is damaged, replace it.
1. Relieve the fuel system fuel pressure. Refer to Fuel Pressure Release. 2. Clean all engine fuel
pipe connections and areas surrounding the engine fuel pipe connections before disconnecting the
engine fuel pipe
connections to avoid possible contamination of the fuel system.
3. Remove the quick-connect fittings in the engine compartment. Refer to Servicing Quick Connect
Fittings. See: Quick-Connect Fittings/Service
and Repair
4. Plug the chassis fuel feed pipe and the chassis fuel return pipe as required. 5. Remove the
upper intake manifold assembly. Refer to Upper Intake Manifold. 6. Remove the engine fuel return
pipe from the fuel pressure regulator. Discard the O-ring. 7. Remove the engine fuel feed pipe from
the fuel rail. Discard the O-ring.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Engine Fuel Pipes > Page 6011
Installation Procedure
1. Lubricate the new O-ring with clean engine oil, then connect the O-ring and the engine fuel
return pipe to the fuel pressure regulator. 2. Lubricate the new O-ring with clean engine oil, then
connect the O-ring and the engine fuel feed pipe to the fuel rail.
Tighten ^
Tighten the engine fuel pipe fittings to 17 Nm (13 lb ft).
3. Install the upper intake manifold assembly. Refer to Upper Intake Manifold. 4. Install the
quick-connect fittings in the engine compartment. Refer to Servicing Quick Connect Fittings. See:
Quick-Connect Fittings/Service and
Repair
5. Tighten the fuel tank filler pipe cap. 6. Install the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Engine Fuel Pipes > Page 6012
Fuel Supply Line: Service and Repair Chassis to Fuel Sender Pipes / Hoses
Removal Procedure
Notice: If it is necessary to remove rust or burns from a fuel pipe use emery cloth in a radial motion
with the pipe end in order to prevent damage to the O-ring sealing surface.
1. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel Pressure Release. 2. Remove the fuel feed pipe
quick-connect fitting at the engine compartment. Refer to Servicing Quick Connect Fittings. 3.
Remove the fuel return pipe quick-connect fitting at the engine compartment. Refer to Servicing
Quick Connect Fittings. See: Quick-Connect
Fittings/Service and Repair
4. Plug the fuel lines to prevent leakage. 5. Raise the vehicle. 6. Remove the fuel feed pipe
quick-connect fitting at the in-pipe fuel filter. Refer to Servicing Quick Connect Fittings. See:
Quick-Connect
Fittings/Service and Repair
7. Remove the fuel return pipe quick-connect fitting at the fuel tank Refer to Servicing Quick
Connect Fittings. See: Quick-Connect
Fittings/Service and Repair
8. Plug the fuel lines to prevent leakage. 9. Remove the exhaust heat shield.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Engine Fuel Pipes > Page 6013
10. Remove the fuel pipe mounting bolts from the body clips.
In the repairable areas, cut a piece of fuel hose 100 mm (4 in) longer than portion of the line
removed. If more than a 152 mm (6 in) length of pipe is removed, use a combination of steel pipe
and hose so that hose lengths will not be more than 254 mm (10 in), including hose overlap on fuel
line.
11. Remove the fuel pipes from the body clips. 12. Remove the fuel pipes (1) to be serviced.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the fuel pipe (1) and hose hardware. 2. Position the fuel pipe in the body clips. 3. Install
the fuel pipe mounting bolts into the body clips.
Tighten ^
Tighten the bolts to 6.0 Nm (53 lb in).
4. Install the exhaust heat shield.
Tighten
- Tighten the exhaust shield bolt to 2.0 Nm (18 lb in).
- Tighten the exhaust shield nuts to 1.0 Nm (9 lb in).
5. Remove the caps on the lines. 6. Install the fuel feed pipe quick-connect fitting at the in-pipe fuel
filter. Refer to Servicing Quick Connect Fittings. See: Quick-Connect
Fittings/Service and Repair
7. Install the fuel return pipe quick-connect fitting at the fuel tank. Refer to Servicing Quick Connect
Fittings. See: Quick-Connect
Fittings/Service and Repair
8. Lower the vehicle. 9. Remove the caps on the fuel lines.
10. Install the fuel feed pipe quick-connect fitting at the engine compartment. Refer to Servicing
Quick Connect Fittings. See: Quick-Connect
Fittings/Service and Repair
11. Install the fuel return pipe quick-connect fitting at the engine compartment Refer to Servicing
Quick Connect Fittings. See: Quick-Connect
Fittings/Service and Repair
12. Install the fuel filler cap. 13. Connect the negative battery cable. 14. Inspect for fuel leaks
through the following steps:
14.1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for two seconds. 14.2. Turn the ignition switch to
the OFF position for ten seconds. 14.3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. 14.4. Check for
fuel leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Engine Fuel Pipes > Page 6014
Fuel Supply Line: Service and Repair Fuel Hoses/Chassis
Removal Procedure
Caution: To Reduce the Risk of Fire and Personal Injury:
^ Always cover nylon vapor pipes with a wet towel before using a torch near them. Also, never
expose the vehicle to temperatures higher than 115°C (239°F) for more than one hour or more
than 90°C (194°F) for any extended period.
^ Take care not to nick or scratch the nylon vapor pipes. If damaged, replace the nylon vapor
pipes.
Notice: When replacing the EVAP pipes or the EVAP hoses, always replace them with the original
equipment or parts that meet the GM specifications for those parts. When replacing EVAP pipes,
the replacement pipe must have the same type of fittings as the original pipe to ensure the integrity
of the connection. When replacing EVAP hoses, use only reinforced fuel-resistant hose identified
with the word Fluoroelastomer or GM 616-M on the hose. The inside hose diameter must match
the outside pipe diameter. Do Not use rubber hose within 100 mm (4 in) of any part of the exhaust
system or within 254 mm (10 in) of the catalytic converter.
1. Remove the retaining hardware and clamp as necessary. 2. Note location and position for future
reference. 3. Inspect hoses and vapor lines for cuts, swelling, cracks, kinks and distortion. 4.
Remove the pipe or hose.
Installation Procedure
Important: Follow the same routing as original pipe or hose.
1. Install the vapor line or hose. 2. Install the retaining hardware and clamps.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Gauge
Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure
Fuel Gauge Sender: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-83-07
Date: March, 1998
Subject: Fuel Level Sensor Replacement Procedure
Models: 1997-98 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Listed in Application Chart)
INFORMATION
This bulletin is being issued to clarify that, when fuel gauge diagnosis per the Service Manual
indicates the cause to be the fuel level sensor, complete fuel sender assembly replacement is NOT
required.
Available fuel level sensor service packages are indicated in the application charts and should be
installed following applicable Service Manual procedures and those provided in the service
packages.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Gauge
Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 6020
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Gauge
Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 6021
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Gauge
Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 6022
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Gauge
Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 6023
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Gauge
Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 6024
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Gauge
Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel Level Sensor - Replacement Procedure > Page 6025
Parts Information
See the charts for listed for applicable part numbers. Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the tables.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Gauge
Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6026
Fuel Gauge Sender: Description and Operation
The Body Function Controller (BFC) calculates fuel level and sends a serial data message to the
Instrument Cluster indicating fuel level. The fuel level is calculated as a ratiometric reading
between the Fuel Level Sensor and an Ignition 0 reference voltage.
By using this method, changes in system voltage will have no effect on fuel level. The Body
Function Controller (BFC) sends changes in fuel level information to the Instrument Cluster over
the Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) serial data bus.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Sender Assembly <-->
[Fuel Tank Unit] > Component Information > Description and Operation
Fuel Sender Assembly: Description and Operation
Modular Fuel Sender Assembly
The modular fuel sender assembly mounts in the top of the fuel tank and is spring loaded to the
bottom. It is designed to:
^ Provide optimum fuel level in the internal fuel reservoir during all fuel tank levels and driving
conditions.
^ Improve the measuring accuracy of fuel tank level.
^ Filters coarse contaminates from the fuel.
^ House fuel pump and helps prevent fuel pump noise.
^ Include a check valve to inhibit back flow of fuel from fuel system.
The fuel sender (2) consists of the following serviceable components:
^ Fuel strainer (3).
^ Level sensor (4).
^ Fuel tank pressure sensor (1).
Fuel Pump
An electric fuel pump located in the modular sender assembly is used to provide fuel pressure. To
control fuel pump operation, a fuel pump relay and fuel pump switch are used. When the ignition
lock cylinder is turned to RUN position, the fuel pump relay activates the electric fuel pump for
approximately two seconds to prime the injectors. If the PCM does not receive reference pulses
after this time, the PCM opens the fuel pump relay ground circuit. The relay will reactivate the fuel
pump when the PCM receives reference pulses.
Fuel Pump Strainer
A woven plastic strainer is located on the lower end of the fuel sender. This filter prevents dirt from
entering the fuel line and also stops water unless the filter becomes completely submerged in
water. This filter is self cleaning and normally requires no maintenance. Fuel stoppage at this point
indicates that the fuel tank contains an abnormal amount of sediment or water. Therefore, should
this occur, the fuel tank should be removed and thoroughly cleaned and the tank filter replaced.
Fuel Level Sensor
The fuel sensor is attached to the modular fuel sender assembly. As the position of the float varies
with the fuel level, the rheostat produces a variable resistance between the fuel gage and ground.
The fuel gage converts this variable resistance into the fuel level reading display on the instrument
panel.
Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor
The Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor is mounted on top of the modular fuel sender. The sensor
measures the difference between the fuel vapor pressure (or vacuum) in the fuel tank and the
outside air pressure. A three wire electrical harness connects it to the Powertrain Control Module
(PCM). The PCM supplies a 5 volt reference signal and ground to the sensor. The sensor will
return a voltage between 0.1 volts and 4.9 volts back to the PCM depending on the fuel vapor
pressure in the fuel tank. When the fuel pressure in the fuel tank is equal to the outside air
pressure, such as when the fuel cap is removed, the output voltage will be 1.3 volts to 1.7 volts.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Sender Assembly <-->
[Fuel Tank Unit] > Component Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Sender Assembly Replacement
Fuel Sender Assembly: Service and Repair Fuel Sender Assembly Replacement
Removal Procedure
Caution: To reduce the risk of fire and personal injury that may result from a fuel leak, always
replace the fuel sender gasket when reinstalling the fuel sender assembly.
1. Remove the negative battery cable. 2. Relieve system fuel pressure. Refer to Fuel Pressure
Release Procedure. 3. Drain fuel tank. Refer to Draining Fuel Tank. 4. Remove the fuel tank. Refer
to Fuel Tank.
Important:
^ The modular fuel sender assembly may spring tip from its position.
^ When removing the modular fuel sender assembly from the fuel tank, be aware that the reservoir
bucket is full of fuel. It must be tipped slightly during removal to avoid damage to the float. Discard
fuel sender O-ring and replace with a new one. Carefully discard the reservoir fuel into an approved
container.
5. While holding the modular fuel sender assembly down, remove the snap ring from designated
slots located on the retainer.
Installation Procedure
1. New O-ring on modular fuel sender (3) to tank. 2. Align tab on front of sender (2) with slot on
front of retainer snap ring. 3. Slowly apply pressure to top of spring loaded sender until sender
aligns flush with retainer on tank.
Important: Be sure that the snap ring is fully seated within the tab slots.
4. Insert snap ring (1) into designated slots. 5. Install the fuel tank. Refer to Fuel Tank. 6. Lower
vehicle. 7. Refill tank. 8. Check for fuel leaks.
8.1. Turn ignition to ON position for 2 seconds. 8.2. Then turn to OFF for 10 seconds. 8.3. Turn the
ignition to ON position. 8.4. Check for fuel leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Sender Assembly <-->
[Fuel Tank Unit] > Component Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Sender Assembly Replacement > Page 6032
Fuel Sender Assembly: Service and Repair Fuel Sender Assembly Replacement (Level Sensor)
Removal Procedure
1. Relieve fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel Pressure Release Procedure. 2. Drain fuel tank.
Refer to Draining Fuel Tank. 3. Remove the fuel tank. Refer to Fuel Tank. 4. Remove the fuel
sender assembly. Refer to Fuel Tank Unit. 5. Remove the fuel level sensor from modular fuel
sender.
Installation Procedure
1. Fuel level sensor to modular fuel sender. 2. Install the fuel sender assembly. Refer to Fuel Tank
Unit. 3. Install the fuel tank. Refer to Fuel Tank. 4. Refill tank. 5. Check for fuel leaks.
5.1. Turn ignition to ON position for 2 seconds. 5.2. Then turn to OFF for 10 seconds. 5.3. Turn the
ignition to ON position. 5.4. Check for fuel leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Sender Assembly <-->
[Fuel Tank Unit] > Component Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Sender Assembly Replacement > Page 6033
Fuel Sender Assembly: Service and Repair Fuel Sender Assembly Replacement (Pump Strainer)
Removal Procedure
1. Relieve fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel Pressure Release Procedure. 2. Drain fuel tank.
Refer to Draining Fuel Tank. 3. Remove the fuel tank. Refer to Fuel Tank. 4. Remove the fuel
sender assembly. Refer to Fuel Tank Unit. 5. Note strainer position for future reference. 6. Support
the reservoir with one hand and grasp the strainer with the other hand. 7. Using a screwdriver to
pry the strainer ferrule off the reservoir. 8. Discard the strainer.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the new strainer to reservoir. 2. Support the reservoir with one hand and grasp the strainer
with the other hand twisting the strainer into position. 3. Install the fuel sender assembly. Refer to
Fuel Tank Unit. 4. Install the fuel tank. Refer to Fuel Tank. 5. Refill tank. 6. Check for fuel leaks.
6.1. Turn ignition to ON position for 2 seconds. 6.2. Then turn to OFF for 10 seconds. 6.3. Turn the
ignition to ON position. 6.4. Check for fuel leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator Electronic > Component Information > Specifications
Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic: Specifications
Mounting Screw Torque.......................................................................................................................
......................................................... 3 Nm (27 lb in.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator Electronic > Component Information > Specifications > Page 6037
Top Left Side Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator Electronic > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator Electronic > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6040
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator Electronic > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6041
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
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Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The purpose of the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve is to control engine idle speed, while preventing
stalls due to changes in engine load.
OPERATION
The IAC valve, mounted in the throttle body, controls bypass air around the throttle plate. By
moving a conical valve, known as a pintle, in (to decrease air flow) or out (to increase air flow), a
controlled amount of air can move around the throttle plate. If RPM is too low, the PCM will retract
the IAC pintle, resulting in more air being bypassed around the throttle plate to increase RPM. If
RPM is too high, the PCM will extend the IAC pintle, allowing less air to be bypassed around the
throttle plate, decreasing RPM.
The IAC pintle moves in small steps called counts. During idle, the proper position of the IAC pintle
is calculated by the PCM based on battery voltage, coolant temperature, engine load, and engine
RPM.
If the RPM drops below a specified value, and the throttle plate is closed TP sensor voltage is
between 0.20 - 0.74), the PCM senses a near stall condition. The PCM will then calculate a new
IAC pintle position to prevent stalls.
If the AC valve is disconnected and reconnected with the engine running, the idle RPM will be
wrong. In this case, the IAC has to be reset.
The IAC resets when the key is cycled ON then OFF.
When servicing the IAC, it should only be disconnected or connected with the ignition OFF in order
to keep from having to reset the IAC.
The position of the IAC pintle affects engine start up and the idle characteristics of the vehicle. If
the IAC pintle is open fully, too much air will be allowed into the manifold. This results in high idle
speed, along with possible hard starting and a lean air/fuel ratio. DTC P0507 may set. If the IAC
pintle is stuck closed, too little air will be allowed in the manifold. This results in a low idle speed,
along with possible hard starting and a rich air/fuel ratio. DTC P0506 may set. If the IAC pintle is
stuck part way open, the idle may be high or low and will not respond to changes in engine load.
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Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic: Adjustments
Idle Air Control Valve Pintle Retraction (Manually)
Before installing new IAC valve, measure the distance that the valve is extended. Measurement
should be made from motor housing to end of cone. Distance should be no greater than 28 mm (1
1/8 inch). If the cone is extended too far, adjustment is required or damage may occur to the valve
when installed. Adjust IAC by manually compressing or extending the pintle to achieve the correct
length.
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Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the electrical connector from the idle air control valve. 2. Remove the idle air control
valve (2) attaching screws. 3. Remove the idle air control valve. 4. Remove the idle air control valve
O-ring.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Before installing a new idle air control valve, measure the distance that the valve is extended. The
measurement should be made from the idle air control valve motor housing to end of the idle air
control valve cone. The distance should be no greater than 28 mm (1-1/8 in). If the idle air control
valve cone is extended too far, adjustment is required, otherwise, damage may occur when the idle
air control valve is installed. Adjust the idle air control valve by manually compressing the pintle to
achieve the correct length.
1. Install the new idle air control O-ring 2. Install the idle air control valve in the intake manifold. 3.
Install the idle air control valve (2) attaching screws.
Tighten IAC valve screws to 3.0 Nm (27 lb in).
4. Install the electrical connector to the idle air control valve. 5. The PCM will reset the idle air
control valve whenever the ignition switch is turned ON, then OFF. Turn the ignition switch ON,
then OFF. 6. Start the engine and allow the engine to reach operating temperature.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Intake Air Plenum >
Component Information > Specifications
Intake Air Plenum: Specifications
Plenum Bolts Torque ...........................................................................................................................
....................................................... 25 Nm (18 lb ft)
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Intake Air Plenum: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Drain coolant. Refer to Cooling System and Radiator. 2. Remove the air inlet duct. 3. Remove
the accelerator and cruise control cables at the throttle body. 4. Remove the accelerator control
cable bracket. 5. Remove the vacuum lines, noting position of hoses. 6. Remove the electrical
connectors at the IAC valve, MAF, MAP, and TP sensors. 7. Remove the throttle body from the
upper intake manifold. Refer to Throttle Body Assembly 8. Remove the EGR valve. 9. Remove the
brake booster vacuum line.
10. Remove the ignition coil wires numbers 2, 4, and 6 from the front three spark plugs. 11.
Remove the ignition coil wires from the wire retainers on top of the upper intake manifold and set
wires aside. 12. Remove the ignition coil assembly front bolt. 13. Loosen ignition coil assembly rear
nuts. 14. Remove the MAP sensor and bracket. 15. Remove the alternator braces. 16. Remove the
upper intake manifold bolts and studs. 17. Remove the upper intake manifold and gaskets
Installation Procedure
Notice: Do Not use solvent of any type when cleaning the gasket surfaces on the intake manifold
and the throttle body assembly, as damage to the gasket surfaces and throttle body assembly may
result. Use care in cleaning the gasket surfaces on the intake manifold and the throttle body
assembly, as sharp tools may damage the gasket surfaces.
1. Clean the gasket sealing surfaces. 2. Install the new upper intake manifold gaskets. 3. Install the
upper intake manifold. 4. Install the upper intake manifold bolts and studs.
Tighten ^
Tighten the upper intake manifold bolts and studs to 25 Nm (18 lb ft).
5. Install the alternator braces. 6. Install the MAP sensor and bracket. 7. Install the ignition coil
assembly front bolts. 8. Tighten the ignition coil assembly rear nuts. 9. Install the ignition coil wires
to the wire retainers on top of the upper intake manifold.
10. Install the ignition coil wires numbers 2, 4, and 6 from the front three spark plugs. 11. Install the
brake booster vacuum line. 12. Install the EGR valve. 13. Install the throttle body to the upper
intake manifold. Refer to Throttle Body Assembly. 14. Install the vacuum lines as noted during
disassembly. 15. Install the electrical connectors at IAC valve, MAF, MAP, and TP sensors. 16.
Install the accelerator control cable bracket. 17. Install the accelerator and cruise control cables at
the throttle body.
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18. Install the air inlet duct. 19. Refill coolant. Refer to Cooling System and Radiator.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel
Pump) > Component Information > Description and Operation
Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The fuel pump and engine oil pressure indicator switch has two functions, to indicate low engine oil
pressure and to supply battery voltage to the fuel pump in the event the fuel pump relay fails.
OPERATION
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) checks the engine oil pressure continuously. If the oil
pressure switch indicates low oil pressure at any time, the PCM will send information through serial
data to the instrument cluster to turn "ON" the "Low Oil Pressure" telltale.
The oil pressure portion of the switch has normally closed contacts that open on an increasing oil
pressure of 41 kPa (6 psi) or less, and close on a decreasing pressure of 14 (2 psi). When the
switch is closed, the oil pressure signal is sent to the PCM, which in turn sends the information to
the instrument cluster through serial data. The oil pressure lamp on the instrument cluster is then
illuminated.
The fuel pump portion of the switch has a normally open contact that closes when increasing oil
pressure of 41 kPa (6 psi) or less, and opens when decreasing pressure of 14 (2 psi). In the event
the fuel pump relay fails, battery voltage is supplied to the fuel pump through the closed contacts
from the switch.
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Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Service and Repair
Engine Oil Pressure Switch
Removal Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise the vehicle. 3. Disconnect the electrical
connector from the engine oil pressure sensor. 4. Remove the engine oil pressure sensor.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the engine oil pressure sensor. 2. Tighten the oil pressure sensor to 16 Nm. 3. Connect
the electrical connector to the engine oil pressure sensor. 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Reconnect the
negative battery cable.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Control Unit > Component Information > Diagrams
Fuel Tank Module
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Locations
Fuel Pump Relay: Locations
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Left Side Of Engine Compartment
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Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Fuel Pump Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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> Page 6095
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 6096
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 6097
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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> Page 6098
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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> Page 6099
Fuel Pump Relay: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 6100
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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> Page 6101
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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> Page 6102
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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> Page 6103
insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Fuel Pump Relay: Description and Operation
FUEL PUMP ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT
When the key is first turned ON the PCM energizes the fuel pump relay for two seconds to build up
the fuel pressure quickly. If the engine is not started within two seconds, the PCM shuts the fuel
pump OFF and waits until the engine is cranked. When the engine is cranked and the RPM signal
has been detected by the PCM, the PCM supplies 12 volts to the fuel pump relay to energize the
electric in-tank fuel pump.
As a backup system to the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump can also be energized by the fuel pump
and engine oil pressure indicator switch. The normally open switch closes when oil pressure
reaches about 28 kPa (4 psi). If the fuel pump relay fails, the fuel pump and engine oil pressure
indicator switch will close and run the fuel pump.
An inoperative fuel pump relay can result in a no start condition. An inoperative fuel pump would
cause a no start condition. A fuel pump which does not provide enough pressure can result in poor
performance.
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Fuel Pump Relay: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the underhood electrical center cover. 2. Remove the fuel pump relay (1).
Installation Procedure
1. Install the fuel pump relay (1). 2. Install the underhood electrical center cover.
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Locations
Top Left Side Of Engine
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6144
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6149
Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6158
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6159
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6160
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6161
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6162
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6163
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6164
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
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Delivery and Air Induction > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 6166
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor measures the amount of air which passes through the throttle
body. The PCM uses this information to determine the operating condition of the engine, to control
fuel delivery. A large quantity of air indicates acceleration, while a small quantity indicates
deceleration or idle.
The scan tool reads the MAF value and displays it in grams per second (gm/s). At idle, it should
read between 4 gm/s-7 gm/s on a fully warmed up engine. Values should change rather quickly on
acceleration, but values should remain fairly stable at any given RPM. A failure in the MAF sensor
or circuit should set DTC P0101, DTC P0102, or DTC P0103.
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Diagrams > Page 6167
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove the MAF sensor electrical connector. 2. Remove the air inlet duct from the MAF sensor.
3. Remove the MAF sensor from the air filter housing.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Carefully install the MAF sensor to the air inlet grommet. 2. Install the MAF sensor to the air inlet
duct. 3. Reconnect the electrical connector.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Diagrams
Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor
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Delivery and Air Induction > Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump) > Component Information > Description and Operation
Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The fuel pump and engine oil pressure indicator switch has two functions, to indicate low engine oil
pressure and to supply battery voltage to the fuel pump in the event the fuel pump relay fails.
OPERATION
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) checks the engine oil pressure continuously. If the oil
pressure switch indicates low oil pressure at any time, the PCM will send information through serial
data to the instrument cluster to turn "ON" the "Low Oil Pressure" telltale.
The oil pressure portion of the switch has normally closed contacts that open on an increasing oil
pressure of 41 kPa (6 psi) or less, and close on a decreasing pressure of 14 (2 psi). When the
switch is closed, the oil pressure signal is sent to the PCM, which in turn sends the information to
the instrument cluster through serial data. The oil pressure lamp on the instrument cluster is then
illuminated.
The fuel pump portion of the switch has a normally open contact that closes when increasing oil
pressure of 41 kPa (6 psi) or less, and opens when decreasing pressure of 14 (2 psi). In the event
the fuel pump relay fails, battery voltage is supplied to the fuel pump through the closed contacts
from the switch.
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Page 6174
Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Service and Repair
Engine Oil Pressure Switch
Removal Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise the vehicle. 3. Disconnect the electrical
connector from the engine oil pressure sensor. 4. Remove the engine oil pressure sensor.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the engine oil pressure sensor. 2. Tighten the oil pressure sensor to 16 Nm. 3. Connect
the electrical connector to the engine oil pressure sensor. 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Reconnect the
negative battery cable.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Throttle Position Sensor: Specifications
Throttle position sensor screws [1]
............................................................................................................................................................
2.0 Nm (18 lb in.)
1. Install the two TP sensor attaching screws, using a thread-locking compound on the screws.
Loctite® 262, GM Part No. 1052624, or equivalent should be used.
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Top Left Side Of Engine
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Instructions
Throttle Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Instructions > Page 6182
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Instructions > Page 6185
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Throttle Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Instructions > Page 6187
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Instructions > Page 6188
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 6203
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 6204
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 6205
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 6206
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 6207
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 6208
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 6209
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 6210
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 6211
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 6212
Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 6213
Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The Throttle Position (TP) sensor is a potentiometer connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle
body. By monitoring the voltage on the signal line, the PCM calculates throttle position. As the
throttle valve angle is changed (accelerator pedal moved), the TP sensor signal also changes. At a
closed throttle position, the output of the TP sensor is low. As the throttle valve opens the TP
sensor voltage increases so that at Wide Open Throttle (WOT), the TP sensor voltage should be
above 4 volts. The PCM calculates fuel delivery based on throttle valve angle (driver demand).
A broken or loose TP sensor may cause intermittent bursts of fuel from an injector and unstable
idle because the PCM thinks the throttle is moving. A hard failure in the TP sensor 5 volts reference
or signal circuits should set either a DTC P0122 or DTC P0123, and P1350. A hard failure with the
TP sensor ground circuit may set DTCs P0123 and P0117. Once a DTC is set, the PCM will use an
artificial default value based on engine RPM and mass air flow for throttle position and some
vehicle performance will return. A high idle may result when either DTC P0122 or DTC P0123 is
set.
The PCM can detect intermittent TP sensor faults. DTC P1121 or DTC P1122 will set if an
intermittent high or low circuit failure is being detected. The PCM can also detect a shifted TP
sensor. The PCM monitors throttle position and compares the actual TP sensor reading to a
predicted TP value calculated from engine speed. If the PCM detects an out of range condition,
DTC P0121 will be set.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 6214
Throttle Position Sensor: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the TP sensor electrical connector. 2. Remove the 2 TP sensor attaching screws. 3.
Remove the TP sensor.
Installation Procedure
1. With the throttle valve in the normal closed idle position, install the TP sensor on the throttle
body assembly. 2. Install the 2 TP sensor attaching screws, using a thread-locking compound on
the screws. Loctite 262, GM Part No. 1052624, or equivalent should
be used.
Tighten ^
Tighten the TP sensor attaching screws to 2.0 Nm (18 lb in).
3. Install the TP sensor electrical connector.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Body > Component
Information > Specifications > Torque Specifications
Throttle Body: Specifications Torque Specifications
Throttle Body Attaching nuts/bolts
.............................................................................................................................................................
28 Nm (21 lb. ft.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Body > Component
Information > Specifications > Torque Specifications > Page 6219
Throttle Body: Specifications Minimum Throttle Body Airflow
The minimum idle speed air rate is set at the factory with a stop screw and is not adjustable. If the
idle speed is out of spec begin diagnosis at Powertrain Management / System Diagnosis / Flow of
Diagnosis.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Body > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 6220
Throttle Body: Description and Operation
The throttle body has a throttle plate to control the amount of air delivered to the engine. The TP
sensor (2), and IAC sensor (1) are also mounted on the throttle body.
Vacuum ports located behind the throttle plate provide the vacuum signals needed by various
components.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Body > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 6221
Throttle Body: Service and Repair
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Information > Specifications > Page 6222
Removal Procedure
1. Drain coolant. Refer to Cooling System and Radiator. 2. Remove the air intake tube. 3. Remove
the IAC valve electrical connector. 4. Remove the TP sensor electrical connector. 5. Remove the
accelerator control and cruise control cables from the accelerator control cable bracket. 6. Remove
the accelerator control cable bracket. 7. Remove the throttle body coolant bypass hoses. 8.
Remove the heater pipe nut at the throttle body. 9. Remove the nuts and bolts holding the throttle
body to the intake manifold.
10. Remove the throttle body assembly.
Installation Procedure
Notice: Do Not use solvent of any type when cleaning the gasket surfaces on the intake manifold
and the throttle body assembly, as damage to the gasket surfaces and throttle body assembly may
result. Use care in cleaning the gasket surfaces on the intake manifold and the throttle body
assembly, as sharp tools may damage the gasket surfaces.
1. Clean the gasket surface on the intake manifold and the throttle body assembly. 2. Install a new
gasket, if necessary. 3. Install the throttle body assembly. 4. Install the throttle body retaining nuts
and bolts (3).
Tighten ^
Tighten the throttle body retaining nuts and bolts to 28 Nm (21 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Body > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 6223
5. Install the throttle body coolant bypass hoses. 6. Install the heater pipe nut at the throttle body. 7.
Install the IAC valve electrical connector. 8. Install the TP sensor electrical connector. 9. Install the
accelerator control cable bracket.
10. Install the accelerator control and cruise control cables. 11. Install the air intake tube. 12. Refill
the coolant. Refer to Cooling System and Radiator.
Important: The throttle should operate freely without binding between full closed and wide open
throttle.
13. Inspect and check for complete throttle opening and closing positions by operating the
accelerator pedal. Also check for poor carpet fit under the
accelerator pedal.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Throttle Cable/Linkage: > 67-63-05A > Aug >
97 > Accelerator Pedal - Hard to Depress/Cable Separation
Throttle Cable/Linkage: Customer Interest Accelerator Pedal - Hard to Depress/Cable Separation
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 67-63-O5A
Date: August, 1997
Subject: Difficult to Depress Accelerator Pedal and/or an Accelerator Cable Separation (Install
Accelerator Cable and Clip)
Models: 1994-97 Buick Regal, Skylark 1994-96 Chevrolet Beretta, Corsica 1995-97 Chevrolet
Lumina, Monte Carlo 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1994-97 Pontiac Grand Prix, Grand Am 1993-97
Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 1994-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with 3100 V6
Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
This bulletin is being revised to remove Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera from the models section. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 67-63-05 (Section 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission).
Condition
Some owners may experience a premature separation of the accelerator cable. Additionally, some
owners may comment about a difficult to depress accelerator pedal.
Cause
The accelerator cable comes out of the throttle cam groove on the throttle body. This happens
when slack is allowed to accumulate in the cable and a loop is formed while the throttle is opened.
When the throttle is relaxed, the loop of cable may not return to the groove in the throttle cam but
comes to rest along the side of the cam. A typical scenario can be either lifting up on the
accelerator pedal while the cruise control is engaged and then disengaging the cruise control or if
the floor mat is allowed to bunch up under the accelerator pedal. The cable will return to the cam
groove if the throttle is depressed to near wide open throttle. The cable may become worn or
broken if. it is allowed to wear against the throttle cam. If the cable breaks, the throttle will return to
idle.
Correction
If the accelerator cable is broken or shows any signs of wear on the stranded wire end at the
throttle cam, replace the cable and install a cable retention clip. If the cable is not broken and the
cable shows no wear on the stranded wire end, install an accelerator cable retention clip. The
accelerator cable retention clip can be installed by following the procedure below:
1. Hold the throttle wide open. This may easily be done from inside the vehicle by depressing the
accelerator pedal.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Throttle Cable/Linkage: > 67-63-05A > Aug >
97 > Accelerator Pedal - Hard to Depress/Cable Separation > Page 6232
2. Install the throttle clip over the cam groove (Figure 1) in line with the existing hole in the throttle
cam thus capturing the accelerator cable in the groove. Rotate the clip upward to insert the clip
tang into the throttle cam hole. Rotate the clip downward and push to seat the clip tang in the
throttle cam.
3. Close the throttle slowly. Do not allow the throttle to snap shut.
4. Check the throttle system for proper operation.
Parts Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Throttle Cable/Linkage: > 67-63-05A > Aug >
97 > Accelerator Pedal - Hard to Depress/Cable Separation > Page 6233
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use as shown.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Throttle Cable/Linkage: >
67-63-05A > Aug > 97 > Accelerator Pedal - Hard to Depress/Cable Separation
Throttle Cable/Linkage: All Technical Service Bulletins Accelerator Pedal - Hard to Depress/Cable
Separation
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 67-63-O5A
Date: August, 1997
Subject: Difficult to Depress Accelerator Pedal and/or an Accelerator Cable Separation (Install
Accelerator Cable and Clip)
Models: 1994-97 Buick Regal, Skylark 1994-96 Chevrolet Beretta, Corsica 1995-97 Chevrolet
Lumina, Monte Carlo 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1994-97 Pontiac Grand Prix, Grand Am 1993-97
Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 1994-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with 3100 V6
Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
This bulletin is being revised to remove Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera from the models section. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 67-63-05 (Section 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission).
Condition
Some owners may experience a premature separation of the accelerator cable. Additionally, some
owners may comment about a difficult to depress accelerator pedal.
Cause
The accelerator cable comes out of the throttle cam groove on the throttle body. This happens
when slack is allowed to accumulate in the cable and a loop is formed while the throttle is opened.
When the throttle is relaxed, the loop of cable may not return to the groove in the throttle cam but
comes to rest along the side of the cam. A typical scenario can be either lifting up on the
accelerator pedal while the cruise control is engaged and then disengaging the cruise control or if
the floor mat is allowed to bunch up under the accelerator pedal. The cable will return to the cam
groove if the throttle is depressed to near wide open throttle. The cable may become worn or
broken if. it is allowed to wear against the throttle cam. If the cable breaks, the throttle will return to
idle.
Correction
If the accelerator cable is broken or shows any signs of wear on the stranded wire end at the
throttle cam, replace the cable and install a cable retention clip. If the cable is not broken and the
cable shows no wear on the stranded wire end, install an accelerator cable retention clip. The
accelerator cable retention clip can be installed by following the procedure below:
1. Hold the throttle wide open. This may easily be done from inside the vehicle by depressing the
accelerator pedal.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Throttle Cable/Linkage: >
67-63-05A > Aug > 97 > Accelerator Pedal - Hard to Depress/Cable Separation > Page 6239
2. Install the throttle clip over the cam groove (Figure 1) in line with the existing hole in the throttle
cam thus capturing the accelerator cable in the groove. Rotate the clip upward to insert the clip
tang into the throttle cam hole. Rotate the clip downward and push to seat the clip tang in the
throttle cam.
3. Close the throttle slowly. Do not allow the throttle to snap shut.
4. Check the throttle system for proper operation.
Parts Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Throttle Cable/Linkage: >
67-63-05A > Aug > 97 > Accelerator Pedal - Hard to Depress/Cable Separation > Page 6240
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use as shown.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6241
Throttle Cable/Linkage: Specifications
Throttle body nuts ................................................................................................................................
....................................................... 26 Nm (19 lb ft) Throttle body bolts .............................................
....................................................................................................................................... 12 Nm (106
lb in)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6242
Throttle Cable/Linkage: Description and Operation
The accelerator control system is cable type. There are no linkage adjustments. Therefore, the
specific cable for each application must be used. Only the specific replacement part will work.
Always make sure that all components are installed correctly and that linkage and cables are not
rubbing or binding in any manner, The throttle should operate freely without bind between closed
and wide open throttle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6243
Throttle Cable/Linkage: Adjustments
The accelerator control system is cable-type. There are no linkage adjustments. Therefore, the
specific cable for each application must be used. Only the specific replacement part will work.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Accelerator Control Cable Replacement
Throttle Cable/Linkage: Service and Repair Accelerator Control Cable Replacement
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the left instrument panel sound insulator. Refer to Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Warning Indicators. 2. Remove the accelerator cable from the accelerator pedal. 3. Squeeze the
accelerator cable cover tangs and push the accelerator cable through the bulkhead. 4. Remove the
accelerator cable shield, if equipped. 5. Remove the accelerator cable from the retaining clips. 6.
Remove the accelerator cable from the throttle body lever. 7. Remove the accelerator cable from
the accelerator cable bracket. 8. Remove the accelerator cable from the vehicle noting cable
routing.
Installation Procedure
Notice: In order to prevent possible interference and damage. flexible components (hoses, wires,
conduits, etc.) must not be routed within 50 mm (2 in)
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Component Information > Service and Repair > Accelerator Control Cable Replacement > Page 6246
of moving parts, unless the routing is positively controlled.
1. Install accelerator cable into car using routing noted during removal 2. Install the snap retainer
through the bulkhead. 3. Install the accelerator cable through the slot in the accelerator pedal lever.
4. Seat the snap retainer in the accelerator pedal lever. 5. Install the accelerator cable to the
throttle body lever 6. Install the accelerator cable to the accelerator cable bracket. 7. Install the
accelerator cable into the retaining clips. 8. Install the left instrument panel sound insulator. Refer
to Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators. 9. Install the accelerator cable shield, if
equipped.
10. Inspect and check for complete throttle opening and closing positions by operating the
accelerator pedal. Also check for poor carpet fit under the
accelerator pedal.
11. Inspect the throttle should operate freely, without binding, between full closed and wide open
throttle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Accelerator Control Cable Replacement > Page 6247
Throttle Cable/Linkage: Service and Repair Accelerator Cable Bracket
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the accelerator cable cross slug from throttle body slot. 2. Depress the tangs and
remove the accelerator cable from accelerator cable bracket. 3. Remove the nuts and bolts holding
the accelerator cable bracket to the throttle body. 4. Remove the accelerator cable bracket.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the accelerator cable bracket to throttle body. 2. Install the nuts and bolts.
Tighten ^
Tighten the nuts to 26 Nm (19 lb ft).
^ Tighten the bolts to 12 Nm (106 lb in).
3. Install the accelerator cable into accelerator cable bracket. 4. Install the accelerator cable cross
slug into throttle body slots.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Specifications
Throttle Position Sensor: Specifications
Throttle position sensor screws [1]
............................................................................................................................................................
2.0 Nm (18 lb in.)
1. Install the two TP sensor attaching screws, using a thread-locking compound on the screws.
Loctite® 262, GM Part No. 1052624, or equivalent should be used.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 6251
Top Left Side Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Throttle Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6254
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6255
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6256
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6257
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6258
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6259
Throttle Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6260
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6261
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6262
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6263
insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6266
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6282
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6283
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6284
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6285
Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Page 6286
Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The Throttle Position (TP) sensor is a potentiometer connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle
body. By monitoring the voltage on the signal line, the PCM calculates throttle position. As the
throttle valve angle is changed (accelerator pedal moved), the TP sensor signal also changes. At a
closed throttle position, the output of the TP sensor is low. As the throttle valve opens the TP
sensor voltage increases so that at Wide Open Throttle (WOT), the TP sensor voltage should be
above 4 volts. The PCM calculates fuel delivery based on throttle valve angle (driver demand).
A broken or loose TP sensor may cause intermittent bursts of fuel from an injector and unstable
idle because the PCM thinks the throttle is moving. A hard failure in the TP sensor 5 volts reference
or signal circuits should set either a DTC P0122 or DTC P0123, and P1350. A hard failure with the
TP sensor ground circuit may set DTCs P0123 and P0117. Once a DTC is set, the PCM will use an
artificial default value based on engine RPM and mass air flow for throttle position and some
vehicle performance will return. A high idle may result when either DTC P0122 or DTC P0123 is
set.
The PCM can detect intermittent TP sensor faults. DTC P1121 or DTC P1122 will set if an
intermittent high or low circuit failure is being detected. The PCM can also detect a shifted TP
sensor. The PCM monitors throttle position and compares the actual TP sensor reading to a
predicted TP value calculated from engine speed. If the PCM detects an out of range condition,
DTC P0121 will be set.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 6287
Throttle Position Sensor: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the TP sensor electrical connector. 2. Remove the 2 TP sensor attaching screws. 3.
Remove the TP sensor.
Installation Procedure
1. With the throttle valve in the normal closed idle position, install the TP sensor on the throttle
body assembly. 2. Install the 2 TP sensor attaching screws, using a thread-locking compound on
the screws. Loctite 262, GM Part No. 1052624, or equivalent should
be used.
Tighten ^
Tighten the TP sensor attaching screws to 2.0 Nm (18 lb in).
3. Install the TP sensor electrical connector.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Firing Order > Component Information >
Specifications > Ignition Firing Order
Firing Order: Specifications Ignition Firing Order
Firing Order .........................................................................................................................................
............................................................... 1-2-3-4-5-6
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Timing > Number One Cylinder >
Component Information > Locations > Number 1 Cylinder Location
Number One Cylinder: Locations Number 1 Cylinder Location
NUMBER ONE CYLINDER LOCATION
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Timing > Timing Marks and Indicators
> System Information > Locations
Timing Marks and Indicators: Locations
The ignition timing is completely controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No timing
reference marks are provided.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Specifications
Camshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Camshaft Position Sensor Bolt ............................................................................................................
........................................................... 10 Nm (8 lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 6304
Top Rear Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6309
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6311
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6334
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6335
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6336
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6337
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6338
Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Camshaft Position Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) sends a cam signal to the PCM which uses it as a sync
pulse to trigger the injectors in proper sequence. The CAM signal is passed through the ignition
control module. It is filtered and buffered by the ignition control module, but the signal is not
processed in any other way. The PCM uses the CAM signal to indicate the position of the #1 piston
during its power stroke. This allows the PCM to calculate true Sequential Fuel Injection (SFI) mode
of operation. If the PCM detects an incorrect CAM signal while the engine is running, DTC P0341
will set.
If the CAM signal is lost while the engine is running, the fuel injection system will shift to a
calculated sequential fuel injection mode based on the last fuel injection pulse, and the engine will
continue to run. The engine can be restarted and will run in the calculated sequential mode as long
as the fault is present with a 1 in 6 chance of injector sequence being correct. Refer to DTC P0341/
Diagnostic Trouble Code Tables for further information. See: Computers and Control
Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
Camshaft Position Sensor
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the serpentine drive belt. 3. Refer to Steering
and Suspension for removal of power steering pump assembly. 4. Remove the electrical connector.
5. Remove the bolt. 6. Remove the sensor.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the Camshaft Position Sensor.
Tighten Retaining bolt to 10 Nm (8 lb. ft.).
2. Install the electrical Connector 3. Install the power steering pump. 4. Install the serpentine drive
belt.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Specifications > 24X Crankshaft Position Sensor
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications 24X Crankshaft Position Sensor
Camshaft Position Sensor Bolt ............................................................................................................
......................................................... 10 Nm (8 lb. ft.)
Crankshaft Balancer Bolt Torque [1]
...................................................................................................................................................... 150
Nm (110 lb. ft.)
[1] Apply thread sealer GM # 1052080 or equivalent to threads.
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Information > Specifications > 24X Crankshaft Position Sensor > Page 6345
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications 7X Crankshaft Position Sensor
Crankshaft Sensor Bolt Torque ...........................................................................................................
.......................................................... 8 Nm (71 lb in.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Locations > 7X Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP)
Lower Rear Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Locations > 7X Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) > Page 6348
Lower Front Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6352
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6377
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6378
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6379
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6380
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6381
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6382
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Connector Views
7x Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
24x Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6383
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 3X
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 3X
3X Reference Low
The PCM uses this signal, from the ignition control module to calculate engine speed and
crankshaft position over 1280 RPM. The PCM also uses the pulses on this circuit to initiate injector
pulses. If the PCM receives no pulses on this circuit, DTC P1374 will set and the PCM will use the
24X reference signal circuit for fuel and ignition control.
This is a ground circuit for the digital RPM counter inside the PCM, but the wire is connected to
engine ground only through the ignition control module. Although this circuit is electrically
connected to the PCM, it is not connected to ground at the PCM. The PCM compares voltage
pulses on the reference input circuits to pulses on this circuit, ignoring pulses that appear on both.
Refer to Electronic Ignition System for further information.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 3X > Page 6386
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 7X
Description
The 7x crankshaft position sensor is the other Hall-effect switch closer to the crankshaft. The
interrupter ring is a special wheel cast on the crankshaft that has seven machined slots. six of
which are equally spaced 60 degrees apart. The seventh slot is spaced 10 degrees from one of the
other slots. as the interrupter ring rotates with the crankshaft, the slots change the magnetic field.
this will cause the 7x the Hall-effect switch to ground the 3X signal voltage that is supplied by the
ignition control module. The ignition control module interprets the 7x on-off signals as an indication
of crankshaft position. The ignition control module must have the 7x signal to fire the correct
ignition coil.
Operation
The crankshaft position sensor provides a signal used by the ignition control module. The ignition
control module also uses the 7X crankshaft position sensor to generate 3X reference pulses which
the PCM uses to calculate RPM and crankshaft position Refer to Electronic Ignition System for
additional information.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 3X > Page 6387
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 24X
24X Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The 24X crankshaft position sensor (1), secured in, an aluminum mounting bracket and bolted to
the front left side of the engine timing chain cover, is partially behind the crankshaft. A 3-wire
harness connector plugs into the sensor, connecting it to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
The 24X Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor is used to improve idle spark control at engine speeds
up to approximately 1250 RPM.
OPERATION
The 24X crankshaft position sensor contains one Hall-effect switch and magnet. The magnet and
Hall-effect switch are separated by an air gap. A Hall-effect switch reacts like a solid state switch,
grounding a low current signal voltage when a magnetic field is present. When the magnetic field is
shielded from the switch by a piece of steel placed in the air gap between the magnet and the
switch, the signal voltage is not grounded. If the piece of steel (called an interrupter) is repeatedly
moved in and out of the air gap, the signal voltage will appear to go ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF.
Compared to a conventional mechanical distributor, this ON-OFF signal is similar to the signal that
a set of breaker points in the distributor would generate as the distributor shaft turned and the
points opened and closed. In the case of the electronic ignition system, the piece of steel is the
concentric interrupter ring mounted to the rear of the crankshaft balancer. The interrupter ring has
blades and windows that, with crankshaft rotation, either block the magnetic field or allow it to close
the Hall-effect switch. The Hall-effect switch produces a signal called the CKP 24X because the
interrupter ring has 24 evenly spaced blades and windows. When a CKP 24X interrupter ring
window is between the magnet and Hall-effect switch, the magnetic field will cause the CKP 24X
Hall-effect switch to ground the CKP 24X signal voltage supplied from the PCM. The CKP 24X
portion of the crankshaft position sensor produces 24 ON-OFF pulses per crankshaft revolution.
The 24X signal allows the PCM to determine a more precise crankshaft position at lower RPM.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Page 6388
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
The crankshaft position system variation compensating values are stored in the PCM non-volatile
memory after a learn procedure has been performed. If the actual crankshaft position system
variation is not within the crankshaft position system variation compensating values stored in the
PCM, DTC P0300 may set refer to DTC P0300 Engine Misfire Detected. See: Computers and
Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
The Crankshaft Position System Variation Learn Procedure should be performed if any of the
following conditions are true:
^ DTC P1336 is set.
^ The PCM has been replaced.
^ The PCM has been reprogrammed.
^ The engine has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft harmonic balancer has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft position sensor has been replaced.
Important: The scan tool crankshaft position system variation learn function will be inhibited if
engine coolant temperature is less than 70°C (156°F). Allow the engine to warm to at least 70°C
(156°F) before attempting the crankshaft position system variation learn procedure.
The scan tool crankshaft position system variation learn function will be inhibited if any powertrain
DTCs other than DTC P1336 are set before or during the crankshaft position system variation learn
procedure. Diagnose and repair any DTCs if set. The crankshaft position system variation learn
function will be inhibited if the PCM detects a malfunction involving the camshaft position signal
circuit, the 3X reference circuit, or the 24X reference circuit.
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the Cam signal, refer to DTC P0341 CMP Sensor Circuit
Performance. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the 3X crank signal, refer to DTC P1374 3X Reference
Circuit. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the 24X crank signal, refer to DTC P0336 24X Reference
Signal Circuit. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
1. Set the parking brake. 2. Start the engine and allow engine coolant temperature to reach at least
70°C (158°F). 3. Turn OFF the ignition switch. 4. Select the crankshaft position variation learn
procedure from the scan tool special functions list. 5. Follow the instructions displayed on the scan
tool. If the procedure is terminated, refer to Important above for instructions. 6. Observe DTC status
for DTC P1336. 7. If the scan tool indicates that DTC P1336 ran and passed, the crankshaft
position system variation learn procedure is complete. If the scan tool
indicates DTC P1336 failed or not run, check for other DTCs. If no DTCs other than P1336 are set,
repeat the crankshaft position system variation learn procedure as necessary.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement (7X)
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement (7X)
7X Crank Shaft Position (CKP) Sensor
Removal Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. 3.
Remove the CKP electrical connector. 4. Remove the CKP fastener. 5. Remove the CKP sensor
from the Engine Block. 6. if the CKP sensor is going to be re-used inspect the sensor for the
following:
6.1. Inspect the CKP sensor for wear, cracks, or leakage. Replace the O-ring if necessary. 6.2.
Lubricate the new O-ring with clean engine oil before installing
Installation Procedure
1. Install the CKP sensor to the block. 2. Install the bolt to hold the CKP sensor to the block face.
Tighten ^
Tighten the bolt to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
3. Connect the electrical connector. 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement (7X) > Page 6391
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement (24X)
24X Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the serpentine drive belt from crankshaft
pulley. 3. Raise the vehicle on hoist. 4. Remove the crankshaft harmonic balancer retaining bolt. 5.
Remove the crankshaft harmonic balancer using special tool (J 24420-B) or equivalent. 6. Note the
routing of sensor harness before removal. 7. Remove the harness retaining clip with bolt (1). 8.
Remove the sensor electrical connector. 9. Remove the sensor bolts (2).
10. Remove the sensor.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the 24X Crankshaft Position Sensor with bolts (2) and route harness as noted during
removal. 2. Install the harness retaining clip with bolt (1).
Tighten Bolts to 10 Nm (8 lb. ft.).
3. Install the sensor electrical connector. 4. Install the balancer on the crankshaft using special tool
(J 29113) or equivalent. 5. Apply thread sealer GM #1052080 or equivalent to threads of the
crankshaft harmonic balancer bolt.
Tighten Bolt to 150 Nm (110 lb. ft.).
6. Lower vehicle. 7. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Cable > Component Information >
Specifications
Ignition Cable: Specifications
Spark Plug Wire Resistance
..............................................................................................................................................................
Less than 30,000 Ohms.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Cable > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 6395
Ignition Cable: Locations
Spark Plug Wiring
Spark Plug Wiring
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Cable > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 6396
Ignition Cable: Service Precautions
Silicone spark plug boots form a tight seal to the spark plugs. The boot should be twisted 1/2 turn
while removing. DO NOT pull on the wire to remove it from a spark plug. Pull on the boot, or use a
tool designed for this purpose. Care should also be exercised when connecting a timing light or
other pick-up equipment. DO NOT force anything between the boot and wiring, or through the
silicone jacket. Connections should be made in parallel using an adapter.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Cable > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 6397
Ignition Cable: Description and Operation
Description
The spark plug wiring used is a carbon impregnated cord conductor encased in a 7 mm (9/32 inch)
diameter silicone rubber jacket. The silicone wiring will withstand very high temperatures and also
provides an excellent insulator for the higher voltage of the ignition system. The silicone spark plug
boots form a tight seal on the plug and THE BOOT SHOULD BE TWISTED ONE-HALF TURN
WHILE REMOVING. Care should also be exercised when connecting a timing light or other pick-up
equipment. Do not force anything between the boot and wiring, or through the silicone jacket.
Connections should be made in parallel using an adapter. DO NOT pull on the wire to remove. Pull
on the boot, or use a tool designed for this purpose.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Cable > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 6398
Ignition Cable: Service and Repair
Spark Plug Wiring
When replacing spark plug cables (secondary wiring), route the cables correctly and through the
proper retainers. Use care when unlocking retainers. Failure to route the cables properly can lead
to radio ignition noise and cross-firing of the plugs, or shorting of the leads to ground. The silicone
spark plug boots form a tight seal on the plug and THE BOOT SHOULD BE TWISTED ONE-HALF
TURN WHILE REMOVING. Refer to illustrations for spark plug cable routing.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Coil > Component Information >
Specifications
Ignition Coil: Specifications
Coil Pack Mounting Bolts .....................................................................................................................
...................................................... 4-5 Nm (40 in lb)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Coil > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 6402
Ignition Coil: Description and Operation
Description
Three twin-tower ignition coils are individually mounted to the ignition control module. Each coil
provides spark for two plugs simultaneously (waste spark distribution). Each coil is serviced
separately.
Operation
Two terminals connect each coil pack to the module. Each coil is provided a fused ignition feed.
The other terminal at each coil is individually connected to the module, which will energize one coil
at a time by completing and interrupting the primary circuit ground path to each coil at the proper
time.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Coil > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 6403
Ignition Coil: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove the spark plug wires. 2. Remove the 2 screws securing ignition coil to ignition control
module. 3. Remove the ignition coil.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the ignition coil. 2. Install the 2 screws.
- Tighten the screws to 4-5 Nm (40 lb. in.).
3. Install the spark plug wires.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component
Information > Specifications
Ignition Control Module: Specifications
Ignition control module screws ............................................................................................................
...................................................... 4-5 Nm (40 lb in) Fasteners securing assembly to engine
.......................................................................................................................................................... 8
Nm (70 lb in)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 6407
Top Rear Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1
Ignition Control Module: C1
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 6410
Ignition Control Module: C2
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 6411
Ignition Control Module: C3
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 6412
Ignition Control Module: Description and Operation
The ignition control module performs the following functions:
^ It determines the correct ignition coil firing sequence, based on 7x pulses. This coil sequences
occurs at start-up. After the engine is running, the module determines the sequence, and continues
triggering the ignition coils in proper sequence.
^ It sends the 3x crankcase reference (fuel control) signal to the PCM. The PCM determines engine
RPM from this signal, this signal is also used by the PCM to determine crankshaft speed for
Ignition Control (IC) spark advance calculations.
The 3X reference signal sent to the PCM by the ignition control module is an on off pulse occurring
3 times per crankshaft revolution.
Circuits Affecting Ignition Control To properly control ignition timing, the PCM relies on the following
information:
^ Engine load (manifold pressure or vacuum).
^ Atmospheric (barometric) pressure.
^ Engine temperature.
^ Intake air temperature.
^ Crankshaft position.
^ Engine speed (RPM).
The Ignition Control (IC) system consists of the following components:
^ Ignition coils.
^ Ignition control module.
^ 7x crankshaft position sensor.
^ 24X crankshaft position sensor.
^ Powertrain control module.
^ All connecting wires.
The electronic Ignition Control Module (ICM) connector terminals are identified as shown in the
Electronic Ignition System graphic. These circuits perform the following functions:
^ 3X reference high The 7x crankshaft position sensor sends a signal to the electronic ignition
control module which generates a reference pulse that is sent to the PCM. The PCM uses this
signal to calculate crankshaft position and engine speed (also used to trigger the fuel injectors).
^ 3X reference low - This wire is grounded through the ICM and assures the ground circuit has no
voltage drop between the ICM and the PCM
^ Ignition control bypass - During initial cranking, the PCM will look for synchronizing pulses from
the camshaft position sensor and the 7x crankshaft position sensor. The pulses indicate the
position of the #1 piston and the #1 intake valve. Five volts is applied to the bypass circuit at
precisely the same time these signals are received by the PCM. This generally occurs within one or
two revolutions of the crankshaft. An open or grounded bypass circuit will set a DTC P1350 and the
engine will run at base ignition timing. A small amount of spark advance is built into the ignition
control module to enhance performance.
^ Ignition Control (IC) - The PCM uses this circuit to trigger the electronic ignition control module.
The PCM uses the crankshaft reference signal to calculate the amount of spark advance needed.
^ 24X reference signal - The 24X crankshaft position sensor increases idle quality and low speed
driveability by providing better resolution at a
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 6413
calibrated RPM.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 6414
Ignition Control Module: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Remove all the electrical connectors at the ignition control module. 2. Note position of spark plug
wires for installation 3. Remove the secondary ignition wires from ignition coils. 4. Remove the
screws securing coil assemblies to ignition control module. 5. Remove the fasteners securing
ignition control module assembly to engine. 6. Remove ignition control module.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the coils to ignition control module. 2. Install the screws.
Tighten ^
Tighten the screws to 4-5 Nm (40 lb in).
3. Install the fasteners securing assembly to engine.
Tighten ^
Tighten the fasteners to 8 Nm (70 lb in).
4. Install the spark plug wires as noted during removal. 5. Install the electrical connectors to the
ignition control module.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Locations
Front Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Knock Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Knock Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6436
Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6439
Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Knock Sensor
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Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Diagrams > Page 6453
Knock Sensor: Description and Operation
Description
Varying octane levels in today's gasoline may cause detonation in some engines. Detonation is
caused by an uncontrolled explosion (burn) in the combustion chamber. This uncontrolled
explosion could produce a flame front opposite that of the normal flame front produced by the spark
plug. The rattling sound normally associated with detonation is the result of two or more opposing
pressures (flame fronts) colliding within the combustion chamber. Though light detonation is
sometimes considered normal, heavy detonation could result in engine damage.
To control spark knock, a Knock Sensor (KS) system is used. This system is designed to retard
spark timing to reduce spark knock in the engine. This allows the engine to use maximum spark
advance to improve driveability and fuel economy.
^ KS module.
^ Knock sensor.
Operation
The knock sensor detects abnormal vibration (spark knocking) in the engine. The sensor is
mounted in the engine block near the cylinders. The sensors produce an AC output voltage which
increases with the severity of the knock. This signal voltage is input to the PCM. The PCM then
adjusts the Ignition Control (IC) timing to reduce spark knock.
The knock sensor is used to detect engine detonation, allowing the PCM to retard Ignition Control
(IC) spark timing based on the KS signal being received. The knock sensor produces an AC signal
which rides on a 5 volts DC signal supplied by the PCM. The signal amplitude and frequency is
dependent upon the amount of knock being experienced.
The PCM determines whether knock is occurring by comparing the signal level on the KS circuit
with the voltage level on the noise channel. The noise channel allows the PCM to reject any false
knock signal by indicating the amount of normal engine mechanical noise present. Normal engine
noise varies depending on engine speed and load. If the voltage level on the KS noise channel
circuit is below the range considered normal, DTC P0327 will set, indicating a fault in the KS circuit
or one of the knock sensors. If the PCM determines that an abnormal minimum or maximum noise
level is being experienced, a DTC P0326 will set.
The PCM contains a replaceable Knock Sensor (KS) module. The KS module contains the circuitry
that allows the PCM to utilize the KS signal and diagnose the KS sensors and circuitry. If the KS
module is missing or faulty causing a continuous knock condition to be indicated, the PCM will set
DTC P0325.
The scan tool has four data displays available for diagnosing the KS system. The 4 displays are
described as follows:
^ KS Activity is used to monitor the input signal from the knock sensor. This counter will display
Yes while knock is being detected.
^ Knock Retard is the indication of how much the PCM is retarding the spark. The PCM will retard
spark in response to the Knock signal or the Traction Control system Desired Torque signal.
^ KS Noise Channel indicates the current voltage level being monitored on the noise channel.
DTCs P0325, P0326, and P0327 are designed to diagnose the KS module, the knock sensors, and
related wiring, so problems encountered with the KS system should set a DTC. However, if no DTC
was set but the KS system is suspect because detonation was the customer's complaint, refer to
Detonation/Spark Knock in Symptoms. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and
Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 6454
Knock Sensor: Testing and Inspection
The PCM contains a replaceable Knock Sensor (KS) module. The KS module contains the circuitry
that allows the PCM to utilize the KS signal and diagnose the KS sensors and circuitry. If the KS
module is missing or faulty causing a continuous knock condition to be indicated, the PCM will set
DTC P0325.
The scan tool has four data displays available for diagnosing the KS system. The 4 displays are
described as follows:
^ KS Activity is used to monitor the input signal from the knock sensor. This counter will display
Yes while knock is being detected.
^ Knock Retard is the indication of how much the PCM is retarding the spark. The PCM will retard
spark in response to the Knock signal or the Traction Control system Desired Torque signal.
^ KS Noise Channel indicates the current voltage level being monitored on the noise channel.
DTCs P0325, P0326, and P0327 are designed to diagnose the KS module, the knock sensors, and
related wiring, so problems encountered with the KS system should set a DTC. However, if no DTC
was set but the KS system is suspect because detonation was the customer's complaint, refer to
Detonation/Spark Knock in Symptoms. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and
Inspection
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 6455
Knock Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise the vehicle. 3. Remove the knock sensor wiring
harness connector from knock sensor. 4. Remove the knock sensor from engine block.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
NOTE: Do Not apply thread sealant to sensor threads. The sensor is coated at factory and applying
additional sealant will affect the sensors ability to detect detonation.
1. Install the knock sensor into engine block. 2. Install the knock sensor wiring harness connector
to the knock sensor. 3. Lower the vehicle. 4. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System >
Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Specifications
Ignition Control Module: Specifications
Ignition control module screws ............................................................................................................
...................................................... 4-5 Nm (40 lb in) Fasteners securing assembly to engine
.......................................................................................................................................................... 8
Nm (70 lb in)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System >
Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Specifications > Page 6460
Top Rear Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System >
Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > C1
Ignition Control Module: C1
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System >
Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 6463
Ignition Control Module: C2
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System >
Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 6464
Ignition Control Module: C3
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System >
Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 6465
Ignition Control Module: Description and Operation
The ignition control module performs the following functions:
^ It determines the correct ignition coil firing sequence, based on 7x pulses. This coil sequences
occurs at start-up. After the engine is running, the module determines the sequence, and continues
triggering the ignition coils in proper sequence.
^ It sends the 3x crankcase reference (fuel control) signal to the PCM. The PCM determines engine
RPM from this signal, this signal is also used by the PCM to determine crankshaft speed for
Ignition Control (IC) spark advance calculations.
The 3X reference signal sent to the PCM by the ignition control module is an on off pulse occurring
3 times per crankshaft revolution.
Circuits Affecting Ignition Control To properly control ignition timing, the PCM relies on the following
information:
^ Engine load (manifold pressure or vacuum).
^ Atmospheric (barometric) pressure.
^ Engine temperature.
^ Intake air temperature.
^ Crankshaft position.
^ Engine speed (RPM).
The Ignition Control (IC) system consists of the following components:
^ Ignition coils.
^ Ignition control module.
^ 7x crankshaft position sensor.
^ 24X crankshaft position sensor.
^ Powertrain control module.
^ All connecting wires.
The electronic Ignition Control Module (ICM) connector terminals are identified as shown in the
Electronic Ignition System graphic. These circuits perform the following functions:
^ 3X reference high The 7x crankshaft position sensor sends a signal to the electronic ignition
control module which generates a reference pulse that is sent to the PCM. The PCM uses this
signal to calculate crankshaft position and engine speed (also used to trigger the fuel injectors).
^ 3X reference low - This wire is grounded through the ICM and assures the ground circuit has no
voltage drop between the ICM and the PCM
^ Ignition control bypass - During initial cranking, the PCM will look for synchronizing pulses from
the camshaft position sensor and the 7x crankshaft position sensor. The pulses indicate the
position of the #1 piston and the #1 intake valve. Five volts is applied to the bypass circuit at
precisely the same time these signals are received by the PCM. This generally occurs within one or
two revolutions of the crankshaft. An open or grounded bypass circuit will set a DTC P1350 and the
engine will run at base ignition timing. A small amount of spark advance is built into the ignition
control module to enhance performance.
^ Ignition Control (IC) - The PCM uses this circuit to trigger the electronic ignition control module.
The PCM uses the crankshaft reference signal to calculate the amount of spark advance needed.
^ 24X reference signal - The 24X crankshaft position sensor increases idle quality and low speed
driveability by providing better resolution at a
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System >
Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 6466
calibrated RPM.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System >
Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 6467
Ignition Control Module: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Remove all the electrical connectors at the ignition control module. 2. Note position of spark plug
wires for installation 3. Remove the secondary ignition wires from ignition coils. 4. Remove the
screws securing coil assemblies to ignition control module. 5. Remove the fasteners securing
ignition control module assembly to engine. 6. Remove ignition control module.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the coils to ignition control module. 2. Install the screws.
Tighten ^
Tighten the screws to 4-5 Nm (40 lb in).
3. Install the fasteners securing assembly to engine.
Tighten ^
Tighten the fasteners to 8 Nm (70 lb in).
4. Install the spark plug wires as noted during removal. 5. Install the electrical connectors to the
ignition control module.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Camshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Camshaft Position Sensor Bolt ............................................................................................................
........................................................... 10 Nm (8 lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Specifications > Page 6472
Top Rear Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6475
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6476
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6477
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6478
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6479
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6480
Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6481
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6482
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6483
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6484
insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6485
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6501
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6504
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6506
Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
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Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 6507
Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Camshaft Position Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) sends a cam signal to the PCM which uses it as a sync
pulse to trigger the injectors in proper sequence. The CAM signal is passed through the ignition
control module. It is filtered and buffered by the ignition control module, but the signal is not
processed in any other way. The PCM uses the CAM signal to indicate the position of the #1 piston
during its power stroke. This allows the PCM to calculate true Sequential Fuel Injection (SFI) mode
of operation. If the PCM detects an incorrect CAM signal while the engine is running, DTC P0341
will set.
If the CAM signal is lost while the engine is running, the fuel injection system will shift to a
calculated sequential fuel injection mode based on the last fuel injection pulse, and the engine will
continue to run. The engine can be restarted and will run in the calculated sequential mode as long
as the fault is present with a 1 in 6 chance of injector sequence being correct. Refer to DTC P0341/
Diagnostic Trouble Code Tables for further information. See: Computers and Control
Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
Camshaft Position Sensor
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the serpentine drive belt. 3. Refer to Steering
and Suspension for removal of power steering pump assembly. 4. Remove the electrical connector.
5. Remove the bolt. 6. Remove the sensor.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the Camshaft Position Sensor.
Tighten Retaining bolt to 10 Nm (8 lb. ft.).
2. Install the electrical Connector 3. Install the power steering pump. 4. Install the serpentine drive
belt.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Specifications > 24X Crankshaft Position Sensor
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications 24X Crankshaft Position Sensor
Camshaft Position Sensor Bolt ............................................................................................................
......................................................... 10 Nm (8 lb. ft.)
Crankshaft Balancer Bolt Torque [1]
...................................................................................................................................................... 150
Nm (110 lb. ft.)
[1] Apply thread sealer GM # 1052080 or equivalent to threads.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications 7X Crankshaft Position Sensor
Crankshaft Sensor Bolt Torque ...........................................................................................................
.......................................................... 8 Nm (71 lb in.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations > 7X Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP)
Lower Rear Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations > 7X Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) > Page 6516
Lower Front Of Engine
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6523
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6525
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6543
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6545
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6546
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6547
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6548
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6549
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6550
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Connector Views
7x Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
24x Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6551
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 3X
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 3X
3X Reference Low
The PCM uses this signal, from the ignition control module to calculate engine speed and
crankshaft position over 1280 RPM. The PCM also uses the pulses on this circuit to initiate injector
pulses. If the PCM receives no pulses on this circuit, DTC P1374 will set and the PCM will use the
24X reference signal circuit for fuel and ignition control.
This is a ground circuit for the digital RPM counter inside the PCM, but the wire is connected to
engine ground only through the ignition control module. Although this circuit is electrically
connected to the PCM, it is not connected to ground at the PCM. The PCM compares voltage
pulses on the reference input circuits to pulses on this circuit, ignoring pulses that appear on both.
Refer to Electronic Ignition System for further information.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 3X
> Page 6554
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 7X
Description
The 7x crankshaft position sensor is the other Hall-effect switch closer to the crankshaft. The
interrupter ring is a special wheel cast on the crankshaft that has seven machined slots. six of
which are equally spaced 60 degrees apart. The seventh slot is spaced 10 degrees from one of the
other slots. as the interrupter ring rotates with the crankshaft, the slots change the magnetic field.
this will cause the 7x the Hall-effect switch to ground the 3X signal voltage that is supplied by the
ignition control module. The ignition control module interprets the 7x on-off signals as an indication
of crankshaft position. The ignition control module must have the 7x signal to fire the correct
ignition coil.
Operation
The crankshaft position sensor provides a signal used by the ignition control module. The ignition
control module also uses the 7X crankshaft position sensor to generate 3X reference pulses which
the PCM uses to calculate RPM and crankshaft position Refer to Electronic Ignition System for
additional information.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 3X
> Page 6555
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor 24X
24X Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The 24X crankshaft position sensor (1), secured in, an aluminum mounting bracket and bolted to
the front left side of the engine timing chain cover, is partially behind the crankshaft. A 3-wire
harness connector plugs into the sensor, connecting it to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
The 24X Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor is used to improve idle spark control at engine speeds
up to approximately 1250 RPM.
OPERATION
The 24X crankshaft position sensor contains one Hall-effect switch and magnet. The magnet and
Hall-effect switch are separated by an air gap. A Hall-effect switch reacts like a solid state switch,
grounding a low current signal voltage when a magnetic field is present. When the magnetic field is
shielded from the switch by a piece of steel placed in the air gap between the magnet and the
switch, the signal voltage is not grounded. If the piece of steel (called an interrupter) is repeatedly
moved in and out of the air gap, the signal voltage will appear to go ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF.
Compared to a conventional mechanical distributor, this ON-OFF signal is similar to the signal that
a set of breaker points in the distributor would generate as the distributor shaft turned and the
points opened and closed. In the case of the electronic ignition system, the piece of steel is the
concentric interrupter ring mounted to the rear of the crankshaft balancer. The interrupter ring has
blades and windows that, with crankshaft rotation, either block the magnetic field or allow it to close
the Hall-effect switch. The Hall-effect switch produces a signal called the CKP 24X because the
interrupter ring has 24 evenly spaced blades and windows. When a CKP 24X interrupter ring
window is between the magnet and Hall-effect switch, the magnetic field will cause the CKP 24X
Hall-effect switch to ground the CKP 24X signal voltage supplied from the PCM. The CKP 24X
portion of the crankshaft position sensor produces 24 ON-OFF pulses per crankshaft revolution.
The 24X signal allows the PCM to determine a more precise crankshaft position at lower RPM.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection
The crankshaft position system variation compensating values are stored in the PCM non-volatile
memory after a learn procedure has been performed. If the actual crankshaft position system
variation is not within the crankshaft position system variation compensating values stored in the
PCM, DTC P0300 may set refer to DTC P0300 Engine Misfire Detected. See: Computers and
Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
The Crankshaft Position System Variation Learn Procedure should be performed if any of the
following conditions are true:
^ DTC P1336 is set.
^ The PCM has been replaced.
^ The PCM has been reprogrammed.
^ The engine has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft harmonic balancer has been replaced.
^ The crankshaft position sensor has been replaced.
Important: The scan tool crankshaft position system variation learn function will be inhibited if
engine coolant temperature is less than 70°C (156°F). Allow the engine to warm to at least 70°C
(156°F) before attempting the crankshaft position system variation learn procedure.
The scan tool crankshaft position system variation learn function will be inhibited if any powertrain
DTCs other than DTC P1336 are set before or during the crankshaft position system variation learn
procedure. Diagnose and repair any DTCs if set. The crankshaft position system variation learn
function will be inhibited if the PCM detects a malfunction involving the camshaft position signal
circuit, the 3X reference circuit, or the 24X reference circuit.
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the Cam signal, refer to DTC P0341 CMP Sensor Circuit
Performance. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the 3X crank signal, refer to DTC P1374 3X Reference
Circuit. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
^ If the scan tool indicates a problem with the 24X crank signal, refer to DTC P0336 24X Reference
Signal Circuit. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
1. Set the parking brake. 2. Start the engine and allow engine coolant temperature to reach at least
70°C (158°F). 3. Turn OFF the ignition switch. 4. Select the crankshaft position variation learn
procedure from the scan tool special functions list. 5. Follow the instructions displayed on the scan
tool. If the procedure is terminated, refer to Important above for instructions. 6. Observe DTC status
for DTC P1336. 7. If the scan tool indicates that DTC P1336 ran and passed, the crankshaft
position system variation learn procedure is complete. If the scan tool
indicates DTC P1336 failed or not run, check for other DTCs. If no DTCs other than P1336 are set,
repeat the crankshaft position system variation learn procedure as necessary.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement
(7X)
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement (7X)
7X Crank Shaft Position (CKP) Sensor
Removal Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. 3.
Remove the CKP electrical connector. 4. Remove the CKP fastener. 5. Remove the CKP sensor
from the Engine Block. 6. if the CKP sensor is going to be re-used inspect the sensor for the
following:
6.1. Inspect the CKP sensor for wear, cracks, or leakage. Replace the O-ring if necessary. 6.2.
Lubricate the new O-ring with clean engine oil before installing
Installation Procedure
1. Install the CKP sensor to the block. 2. Install the bolt to hold the CKP sensor to the block face.
Tighten ^
Tighten the bolt to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
3. Connect the electrical connector. 4. Lower the vehicle. 5. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement
(7X) > Page 6559
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement (24X)
24X Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the serpentine drive belt from crankshaft
pulley. 3. Raise the vehicle on hoist. 4. Remove the crankshaft harmonic balancer retaining bolt. 5.
Remove the crankshaft harmonic balancer using special tool (J 24420-B) or equivalent. 6. Note the
routing of sensor harness before removal. 7. Remove the harness retaining clip with bolt (1). 8.
Remove the sensor electrical connector. 9. Remove the sensor bolts (2).
10. Remove the sensor.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the 24X Crankshaft Position Sensor with bolts (2) and route harness as noted during
removal. 2. Install the harness retaining clip with bolt (1).
Tighten Bolts to 10 Nm (8 lb. ft.).
3. Install the sensor electrical connector. 4. Install the balancer on the crankshaft using special tool
(J 29113) or equivalent. 5. Apply thread sealer GM #1052080 or equivalent to threads of the
crankshaft harmonic balancer bolt.
Tighten Bolt to 150 Nm (110 lb. ft.).
6. Lower vehicle. 7. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest:
> 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition
Technical Service Bulletin # 99-08-49-008 Date: 990701
Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-49-008
Date: July, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Chime Sounds When Key Is Removed from Ignition, Intermittent Operation of Power Door
Locks, Keyless Entry, Steering Column Lock or Memory Seats (Inspect/Replace Lock Cylinder
Actuator or Lock Cylinder Assembly)
Models: 1991-99 Chevrolet Corvette, Malibu 1997-99 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1998-99 Oldsmobile
Intrigue 1999 Oldsmobile Alero 1999 Pontiac Grand Am
This Bulletin is being revised to add additional symptoms and conditions. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 83-83-20 (Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical)
Condition Some customers may comment that the key warning chime continues to sound after the
ignition key has been removed from the ignition lock cylinder. They may also comment that the
automatic power door locks will not lock the doors when the key is removed from the ignition lock
cylinder and the warning chime is sounding.
On Corvette models, some customers may comment that there is an intermittent operation of the
passive keyless entry system, the steering column lock, or the retracting feature of the memory
power seat option when exiting the vehicle.
Cause The actuator, located in the ignition lock cylinder, may be sticking after the key is removed.
Correction Remove the ignition lock cylinder for the instrument panel using the following
procedures. Once removed from the vehicle, use the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test
Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to determine the correct repair procedure.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description Application
All Models
12450483 Actuator Listed Above
12458191 Lock Service Package All, (Except Corvette
12458190 Lock Service Package Corvette Only
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
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> 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 6569
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Malibu and Cutlass Models
Malibu and Cutlass Models - Lock Cylinder
Removal
Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
dis8ble the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the lock cylinder bezel.
3. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
5. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
6. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
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Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest:
> 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 6570
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Malibu and Cutlass Models - Lock Cylinder
Installation
Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the lock cylinder bezel.
5. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
6. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Alero and Grand AM Models
Alero and Grand Am Models - Lock Cylinder
Removal
Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the shift knob/handle (Alero Only).
3. Remove the console shifter trim plate (Alero Only). See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the lock cylinder bezel.
5. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
7. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
8. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Alero and Grand Am Models - Lock Cylinder
Installation
Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, Insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the lock cylinder bezel.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest:
> 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 6571
5. Install the console shifter trim plate (Alero Only). See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Install the shift knob/handle (Alero Only).
7. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
8. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Intrigue Models
Intrigue Models - Lock Cylinder Removal Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SiR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SiR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the left side instrument panel insulator. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section
of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
3. Remove the console trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
5. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
6. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
7. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Intrigue Models - Lock Cylinder Installation Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the console trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
5. Install the left side instrument panel insulator. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of
Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
7. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Corvette Models
Corvette Models - Lock Cylinder Removal Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the console. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in
the Service Manual.
3. Remove the instrument panel accessory trim plate. See the instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the lock cylinder.
5. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest:
> 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 6572
6. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Corvette Models - Lock Cylinder Installation Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Connect the electrical connector to the lock cylinder.
3. Install the instrument panel accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the console. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in
the Service Manual.
5. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
Actuator Type Identification
With the key installed, hold the lock cylinder as shown in Figure 2 to determine what type of
actuator is being used. FOLLOW THE APPROPRIATE TEST PROCEDURE FOR THE TYPE OF
ACTUATOR BEING USED.
Test Procedure - New and Early Design Actuator
Test Procedure
Early Design Actuator:
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest:
> 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 6573
1. With the lock cylinder held vertically as shown in Figure 3, remove the key from the lock. When
the key is removed, the actuator should drop down in the lock cylinder approximately 4-5 mm (3/16
in). Repeat this step several times.
2. If the EARLY design actuator in the lock cylinder does NOT drop down, replace the complete
lock assembly.
3. If the EARLY design actuator in the lock cylinder DOES drop down, replace the actuator with the
new design actuator P/N 12450483.
To replace the actuator, install the key in the lock and grasp the end of the actuator with a pair of
small long nose (needle nose) pliers and pull firmly. With the key still in the lock, install the new
actuator by aligning the actuator shaft with the opening in the lock cylinder and pushing the
actuator into place. Verify the correct actuator operation by performing Step 1 again.
Important:
After installing a new actuator, correct actuator operation must be confirmed.
New Design Actuator:
1. With the lock cylinder held vertically as shown in Figure 3, remove the key from the lock. When
the key is removed, the actuator should drop down in the lock cylinder approximately 4-5 mm (3/16
in). Repeat this step several times.
2. If the NEW design actuator in the lock cylinder does NOT drop down, replace the lock cylinder
assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest:
> 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
Technical Service Bulletin # 73-01-09 Date: 971001
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 73-01-09
Date: October, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tumblers for Cylinder Recoding, Revised Repair Procedures for Inoperative Ignition
Cylinders (Seized/Won't Rotate), Labor Operation/Time Allowances
Models: 1995-97 Buick Skylark, Riviera 1995-97 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997 Chevrolet Corvette,
Malibu, Venture 1995-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora, Cutlass, Silhouette
1995-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T Models 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC G, M/L Vans 1996-97
Oldsmobile Bravada
The information in this bulletin concerns new designed tumblers for recoding lock cylinders that use
double sided reversible keys, revised procedures for servicing ignition lock cylinders that are seized
or not able to rotate and revised labor time guide information and allowances.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest:
> 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 6578
The existing labor operation (E7200) has been changed to include "Add" conditions for cylinders
that will not rotate.
New Tumblers
New tumblers are available from GMSPO for recoding lock cylinders that use double-sided
reversible keys. These new tumblers should be used immediately and information about the
disposition of original tumblers will be provided by GMSPO. Figure 1 shows the new tumbler
profile. The shaded area was part of the original tumbler profile, and is removed on the new
tumblers. The new part numbers for the tumblers are as follows:
Part No. 2852732 = Tumbler # 1
Part No. 2852733 = Tumbler # 2
Part No. 2852734 = Tumbler # 3
Part No. 2852735 = Tumbler # 4
Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
New Procedures For Seized/Won't Rotate Column Mounted Ign. CYL.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest:
> 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 6579
A. On G, J and N Models:
DO NOT REMOVE THE STEERING COLUMN as indicated in the Service Manual procedure.
1. Remove the tilt lever, upper and lower column covers.
2. Drill hole in module housing as indicated in the illustration using a short drill bit (1/8" followed by
9/32") and 90 degree drill motor or go degree drill attachment to break or access the retaining
spring for the lock cylinder button, see Figure 2.
3. Using a pick or needle nose pliers, remove the retaining spring from the hole.
4. Using pliers, grasp and remove the retaining button for the cylinder.
5. Remove the cylinder from the housing.
6. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
7. Install the new cylinder and reinstall the steering column components.
B. On U, W, and light duty trucks, follow the Service Manual procedure for keys missing, or
cylinders won't rotate.
Procedure: Instrument Panel Mounted Switches
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest:
> 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 6580
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 01-08-49-020 > Dec > 01 > Ignition Lock Cylinder/Switch Replacement Revision
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Lock Cylinder/Switch Replacement Revision
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 01-08-49-020
Date: December, 2001
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Revised Ignition Lock Cylinder or Ignition Switch Assembly Replacement
Models: 1996-1998 Buick Skylark 1997-2002 Chevrolet Malibu 1996-1998 Oldsmobile Achieva
1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999-2002 Oldsmobile Alero 1996-2002 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin is being issued to revise the Lock Cylinder Replacement procedure and the Ignition
Switch Assembly Replacement procedure in the Steering Wheel and Column or Instrument Panel,
Gages and Console sub-section of the Service Manual. Please replace the current information in
the Service Manual with the following information.
The following information has been updated within SI2000 for 1998-2002. If you are using a paper
version of this Service Manual, please make a reference to this bulletin on the affected page.
The above mentioned Service Manuals omitted information regarding performing the Passlock
Relearn or Autolearn procedure after an ignition lock cylinder or ignition switch assembly has been
replaced. If you have replaced either of these components, refer to the following procedures:
For 1996-1998 Grand Am, Achieva, Skylark and 1997-98 Malibu and Cutlass paper Service
Manuals, refer to Changing VTD Components in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
For 1998-2000 Malibu, 1998-99 Cutlass, 1999-2000 Alero and Grand Am information in SI2000,
refer to Passlock Reprogramming Autolearn in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
For 2001-2002 Malibu, Alero and Grand Am, refer to Programming Theft Deterrent System
Components in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed
From Ignition
Technical Service Bulletin # 99-08-49-008 Date: 990701
Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-49-008
Date: July, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Chime Sounds When Key Is Removed from Ignition, Intermittent Operation of Power Door
Locks, Keyless Entry, Steering Column Lock or Memory Seats (Inspect/Replace Lock Cylinder
Actuator or Lock Cylinder Assembly)
Models: 1991-99 Chevrolet Corvette, Malibu 1997-99 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1998-99 Oldsmobile
Intrigue 1999 Oldsmobile Alero 1999 Pontiac Grand Am
This Bulletin is being revised to add additional symptoms and conditions. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 83-83-20 (Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical)
Condition Some customers may comment that the key warning chime continues to sound after the
ignition key has been removed from the ignition lock cylinder. They may also comment that the
automatic power door locks will not lock the doors when the key is removed from the ignition lock
cylinder and the warning chime is sounding.
On Corvette models, some customers may comment that there is an intermittent operation of the
passive keyless entry system, the steering column lock, or the retracting feature of the memory
power seat option when exiting the vehicle.
Cause The actuator, located in the ignition lock cylinder, may be sticking after the key is removed.
Correction Remove the ignition lock cylinder for the instrument panel using the following
procedures. Once removed from the vehicle, use the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test
Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to determine the correct repair procedure.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description Application
All Models
12450483 Actuator Listed Above
12458191 Lock Service Package All, (Except Corvette
12458190 Lock Service Package Corvette Only
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed
From Ignition > Page 6590
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Malibu and Cutlass Models
Malibu and Cutlass Models - Lock Cylinder
Removal
Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
dis8ble the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the lock cylinder bezel.
3. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
5. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
6. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed
From Ignition > Page 6591
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Malibu and Cutlass Models - Lock Cylinder
Installation
Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the lock cylinder bezel.
5. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
6. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Alero and Grand AM Models
Alero and Grand Am Models - Lock Cylinder
Removal
Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the shift knob/handle (Alero Only).
3. Remove the console shifter trim plate (Alero Only). See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the lock cylinder bezel.
5. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
7. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
8. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Alero and Grand Am Models - Lock Cylinder
Installation
Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, Insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the lock cylinder bezel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed
From Ignition > Page 6592
5. Install the console shifter trim plate (Alero Only). See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Install the shift knob/handle (Alero Only).
7. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
8. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Intrigue Models
Intrigue Models - Lock Cylinder Removal Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SiR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SiR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the left side instrument panel insulator. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section
of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
3. Remove the console trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
5. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
6. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
7. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Intrigue Models - Lock Cylinder Installation Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the console trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
5. Install the left side instrument panel insulator. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of
Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
7. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Corvette Models
Corvette Models - Lock Cylinder Removal Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the console. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in
the Service Manual.
3. Remove the instrument panel accessory trim plate. See the instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the lock cylinder.
5. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed
From Ignition > Page 6593
6. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Corvette Models - Lock Cylinder Installation Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Connect the electrical connector to the lock cylinder.
3. Install the instrument panel accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the console. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in
the Service Manual.
5. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
Actuator Type Identification
With the key installed, hold the lock cylinder as shown in Figure 2 to determine what type of
actuator is being used. FOLLOW THE APPROPRIATE TEST PROCEDURE FOR THE TYPE OF
ACTUATOR BEING USED.
Test Procedure - New and Early Design Actuator
Test Procedure
Early Design Actuator:
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed
From Ignition > Page 6594
1. With the lock cylinder held vertically as shown in Figure 3, remove the key from the lock. When
the key is removed, the actuator should drop down in the lock cylinder approximately 4-5 mm (3/16
in). Repeat this step several times.
2. If the EARLY design actuator in the lock cylinder does NOT drop down, replace the complete
lock assembly.
3. If the EARLY design actuator in the lock cylinder DOES drop down, replace the actuator with the
new design actuator P/N 12450483.
To replace the actuator, install the key in the lock and grasp the end of the actuator with a pair of
small long nose (needle nose) pliers and pull firmly. With the key still in the lock, install the new
actuator by aligning the actuator shaft with the opening in the lock cylinder and pushing the
actuator into place. Verify the correct actuator operation by performing Step 1 again.
Important:
After installing a new actuator, correct actuator operation must be confirmed.
New Design Actuator:
1. With the lock cylinder held vertically as shown in Figure 3, remove the key from the lock. When
the key is removed, the actuator should drop down in the lock cylinder approximately 4-5 mm (3/16
in). Repeat this step several times.
2. If the NEW design actuator in the lock cylinder does NOT drop down, replace the lock cylinder
assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition
Cylinder
Technical Service Bulletin # 73-01-09 Date: 971001
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 73-01-09
Date: October, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tumblers for Cylinder Recoding, Revised Repair Procedures for Inoperative Ignition
Cylinders (Seized/Won't Rotate), Labor Operation/Time Allowances
Models: 1995-97 Buick Skylark, Riviera 1995-97 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997 Chevrolet Corvette,
Malibu, Venture 1995-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora, Cutlass, Silhouette
1995-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T Models 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC G, M/L Vans 1996-97
Oldsmobile Bravada
The information in this bulletin concerns new designed tumblers for recoding lock cylinders that use
double sided reversible keys, revised procedures for servicing ignition lock cylinders that are seized
or not able to rotate and revised labor time guide information and allowances.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition
Cylinder > Page 6599
The existing labor operation (E7200) has been changed to include "Add" conditions for cylinders
that will not rotate.
New Tumblers
New tumblers are available from GMSPO for recoding lock cylinders that use double-sided
reversible keys. These new tumblers should be used immediately and information about the
disposition of original tumblers will be provided by GMSPO. Figure 1 shows the new tumbler
profile. The shaded area was part of the original tumbler profile, and is removed on the new
tumblers. The new part numbers for the tumblers are as follows:
Part No. 2852732 = Tumbler # 1
Part No. 2852733 = Tumbler # 2
Part No. 2852734 = Tumbler # 3
Part No. 2852735 = Tumbler # 4
Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
New Procedures For Seized/Won't Rotate Column Mounted Ign. CYL.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition
Cylinder > Page 6600
A. On G, J and N Models:
DO NOT REMOVE THE STEERING COLUMN as indicated in the Service Manual procedure.
1. Remove the tilt lever, upper and lower column covers.
2. Drill hole in module housing as indicated in the illustration using a short drill bit (1/8" followed by
9/32") and 90 degree drill motor or go degree drill attachment to break or access the retaining
spring for the lock cylinder button, see Figure 2.
3. Using a pick or needle nose pliers, remove the retaining spring from the hole.
4. Using pliers, grasp and remove the retaining button for the cylinder.
5. Remove the cylinder from the housing.
6. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
7. Install the new cylinder and reinstall the steering column components.
B. On U, W, and light duty trucks, follow the Service Manual procedure for keys missing, or
cylinders won't rotate.
Procedure: Instrument Panel Mounted Switches
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition
Cylinder > Page 6601
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install
Procedure
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install
Procedure
File In Section: 8 Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 63-83-16A
Date: May, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 8C - New Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder Remove/Install Procedure
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
This bulletin is being revised to add an "Important" statement to Step 9 regarding the procedure if
an ignition key or key code is not available. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 63-83-16
(Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical).
This bulletin is being issued to add the remove/install procedure for the ignition switch lock cylinder
in Section 8C of the Service Manual (GMP/97-LN-1). Please insert the following information in the
instrument Panel, Gauges and Console section of the Service Manual.
IGNITION SWITCH LOCK CYLINDER (Refer to Figure 26 in the Service Manual)
The ignition key is needed to properly remove the ignition switch lock cylinder from the ignition
switch. If the ignition key or key code is unavailable, follow the instructions in the "Important"
statement after Step 9 of "Remove or Disconnect".
Procedure
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable.
2. Disable SIR system. Refer to Disabling SIR in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
3. Ignition switch trim ring.
4. Accessory trim plate. Refer to Accessory Trim Plate in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
5. Upper steering column cover. Refer to Steering Column Covers in Steering Wheel and Column On Vehicle Service in Section 3F of the Service Manual.
6. Instrument cluster trim plate. Refer to Cluster Trim Plate in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
7. Instrument cluster. Refer to Instrument Panel Cluster in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
8. Ignition switch assembly bolts.
9. Ignition switch assembly electrical connectors.
Important:
If the ignition key or key code is not available or the ignition cylinder will not rotate, use the
following procedure to drill a hole in the switch and remove the cylinder. It "Pass Lock" equipped,
there is no need to disconnect prior to cylinder removal.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install
Procedure > Page 6606
a. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 1.
b. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
c. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
d. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
e. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch body and check the cylinder code, see Figure
2.
f. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
g. Install the new cylinder by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the "ON" position and
pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release button slightly as it
passes by the 9/32' hole previously drilled in the housing.
10. Ignition lock cable from ignition switch assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install
Procedure > Page 6607
11. Ignition switch assembly from vehicle.
12. Insert key into ignition switch cylinder and rotate to the RUN position.
13. Press the cylinder release plunger (located at the 4 o'clock position) on the ignition switch
assembly.
14. Pull cylinder from ignition switch with key.
Install or Connect
1. Cylinder to ignition switch, verify engagement and operation with key.
2. Ignition switch assembly to vehicle.
3. Ignition lock cable to ignition switch assembly, verify engagement.
4. Ignition switch assembly electrical connectors, verify engagement.
5. Ignition switch assembly bolts.
6. Instrument cluster.
7. Instrument cluster trim plate.
8. Upper steering column cover.
9. Accessory trim plate.
10. Ignition switch trim ring.
11. Enable SIR system. Refer to Enabling SIR in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
12. Negative battery cable.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
Cylinder, Ignition Use published
E7200 Lock - R & R or labor operation
Replace time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service
Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 01-08-49-020 > Dec > 01 > Ignition Lock Cylinder/Switch - Replacement
Revision
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Lock Cylinder/Switch Replacement Revision
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 01-08-49-020
Date: December, 2001
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Revised Ignition Lock Cylinder or Ignition Switch Assembly Replacement
Models: 1996-1998 Buick Skylark 1997-2002 Chevrolet Malibu 1996-1998 Oldsmobile Achieva
1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999-2002 Oldsmobile Alero 1996-2002 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin is being issued to revise the Lock Cylinder Replacement procedure and the Ignition
Switch Assembly Replacement procedure in the Steering Wheel and Column or Instrument Panel,
Gages and Console sub-section of the Service Manual. Please replace the current information in
the Service Manual with the following information.
The following information has been updated within SI2000 for 1998-2002. If you are using a paper
version of this Service Manual, please make a reference to this bulletin on the affected page.
The above mentioned Service Manuals omitted information regarding performing the Passlock
Relearn or Autolearn procedure after an ignition lock cylinder or ignition switch assembly has been
replaced. If you have replaced either of these components, refer to the following procedures:
For 1996-1998 Grand Am, Achieva, Skylark and 1997-98 Malibu and Cutlass paper Service
Manuals, refer to Changing VTD Components in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
For 1998-2000 Malibu, 1998-99 Cutlass, 1999-2000 Alero and Grand Am information in SI2000,
refer to Passlock Reprogramming Autolearn in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
For 2001-2002 Malibu, Alero and Grand Am, refer to Programming Theft Deterrent System
Components in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service
Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install Procedure
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install
Procedure
File In Section: 8 Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 63-83-16A
Date: May, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 8C - New Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder Remove/Install Procedure
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
This bulletin is being revised to add an "Important" statement to Step 9 regarding the procedure if
an ignition key or key code is not available. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 63-83-16
(Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical).
This bulletin is being issued to add the remove/install procedure for the ignition switch lock cylinder
in Section 8C of the Service Manual (GMP/97-LN-1). Please insert the following information in the
instrument Panel, Gauges and Console section of the Service Manual.
IGNITION SWITCH LOCK CYLINDER (Refer to Figure 26 in the Service Manual)
The ignition key is needed to properly remove the ignition switch lock cylinder from the ignition
switch. If the ignition key or key code is unavailable, follow the instructions in the "Important"
statement after Step 9 of "Remove or Disconnect".
Procedure
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable.
2. Disable SIR system. Refer to Disabling SIR in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
3. Ignition switch trim ring.
4. Accessory trim plate. Refer to Accessory Trim Plate in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
5. Upper steering column cover. Refer to Steering Column Covers in Steering Wheel and Column On Vehicle Service in Section 3F of the Service Manual.
6. Instrument cluster trim plate. Refer to Cluster Trim Plate in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
7. Instrument cluster. Refer to Instrument Panel Cluster in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
8. Ignition switch assembly bolts.
9. Ignition switch assembly electrical connectors.
Important:
If the ignition key or key code is not available or the ignition cylinder will not rotate, use the
following procedure to drill a hole in the switch and remove the cylinder. It "Pass Lock" equipped,
there is no need to disconnect prior to cylinder removal.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service
Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install Procedure >
Page 6617
a. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 1.
b. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
c. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
d. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
e. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch body and check the cylinder code, see Figure
2.
f. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
g. Install the new cylinder by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the "ON" position and
pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release button slightly as it
passes by the 9/32' hole previously drilled in the housing.
10. Ignition lock cable from ignition switch assembly.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service
Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install Procedure >
Page 6618
11. Ignition switch assembly from vehicle.
12. Insert key into ignition switch cylinder and rotate to the RUN position.
13. Press the cylinder release plunger (located at the 4 o'clock position) on the ignition switch
assembly.
14. Pull cylinder from ignition switch with key.
Install or Connect
1. Cylinder to ignition switch, verify engagement and operation with key.
2. Ignition switch assembly to vehicle.
3. Ignition lock cable to ignition switch assembly, verify engagement.
4. Ignition switch assembly electrical connectors, verify engagement.
5. Ignition switch assembly bolts.
6. Instrument cluster.
7. Instrument cluster trim plate.
8. Upper steering column cover.
9. Accessory trim plate.
10. Ignition switch trim ring.
11. Enable SIR system. Refer to Enabling SIR in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
12. Negative battery cable.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
Cylinder, Ignition Use published
E7200 Lock - R & R or labor operation
Replace time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Locations
Front Of Engine
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Knock Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6624
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6625
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6626
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6627
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6628
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6629
Knock Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6630
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6647
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6648
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6649
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6650
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6651
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6652
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6653
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6654
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6655
Knock Sensor
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Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6656
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 6657
Knock Sensor: Description and Operation
Description
Varying octane levels in today's gasoline may cause detonation in some engines. Detonation is
caused by an uncontrolled explosion (burn) in the combustion chamber. This uncontrolled
explosion could produce a flame front opposite that of the normal flame front produced by the spark
plug. The rattling sound normally associated with detonation is the result of two or more opposing
pressures (flame fronts) colliding within the combustion chamber. Though light detonation is
sometimes considered normal, heavy detonation could result in engine damage.
To control spark knock, a Knock Sensor (KS) system is used. This system is designed to retard
spark timing to reduce spark knock in the engine. This allows the engine to use maximum spark
advance to improve driveability and fuel economy.
^ KS module.
^ Knock sensor.
Operation
The knock sensor detects abnormal vibration (spark knocking) in the engine. The sensor is
mounted in the engine block near the cylinders. The sensors produce an AC output voltage which
increases with the severity of the knock. This signal voltage is input to the PCM. The PCM then
adjusts the Ignition Control (IC) timing to reduce spark knock.
The knock sensor is used to detect engine detonation, allowing the PCM to retard Ignition Control
(IC) spark timing based on the KS signal being received. The knock sensor produces an AC signal
which rides on a 5 volts DC signal supplied by the PCM. The signal amplitude and frequency is
dependent upon the amount of knock being experienced.
The PCM determines whether knock is occurring by comparing the signal level on the KS circuit
with the voltage level on the noise channel. The noise channel allows the PCM to reject any false
knock signal by indicating the amount of normal engine mechanical noise present. Normal engine
noise varies depending on engine speed and load. If the voltage level on the KS noise channel
circuit is below the range considered normal, DTC P0327 will set, indicating a fault in the KS circuit
or one of the knock sensors. If the PCM determines that an abnormal minimum or maximum noise
level is being experienced, a DTC P0326 will set.
The PCM contains a replaceable Knock Sensor (KS) module. The KS module contains the circuitry
that allows the PCM to utilize the KS signal and diagnose the KS sensors and circuitry. If the KS
module is missing or faulty causing a continuous knock condition to be indicated, the PCM will set
DTC P0325.
The scan tool has four data displays available for diagnosing the KS system. The 4 displays are
described as follows:
^ KS Activity is used to monitor the input signal from the knock sensor. This counter will display
Yes while knock is being detected.
^ Knock Retard is the indication of how much the PCM is retarding the spark. The PCM will retard
spark in response to the Knock signal or the Traction Control system Desired Torque signal.
^ KS Noise Channel indicates the current voltage level being monitored on the noise channel.
DTCs P0325, P0326, and P0327 are designed to diagnose the KS module, the knock sensors, and
related wiring, so problems encountered with the KS system should set a DTC. However, if no DTC
was set but the KS system is suspect because detonation was the customer's complaint, refer to
Detonation/Spark Knock in Symptoms. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and
Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 6658
Knock Sensor: Testing and Inspection
The PCM contains a replaceable Knock Sensor (KS) module. The KS module contains the circuitry
that allows the PCM to utilize the KS signal and diagnose the KS sensors and circuitry. If the KS
module is missing or faulty causing a continuous knock condition to be indicated, the PCM will set
DTC P0325.
The scan tool has four data displays available for diagnosing the KS system. The 4 displays are
described as follows:
^ KS Activity is used to monitor the input signal from the knock sensor. This counter will display
Yes while knock is being detected.
^ Knock Retard is the indication of how much the PCM is retarding the spark. The PCM will retard
spark in response to the Knock signal or the Traction Control system Desired Torque signal.
^ KS Noise Channel indicates the current voltage level being monitored on the noise channel.
DTCs P0325, P0326, and P0327 are designed to diagnose the KS module, the knock sensors, and
related wiring, so problems encountered with the KS system should set a DTC. However, if no DTC
was set but the KS system is suspect because detonation was the customer's complaint, refer to
Detonation/Spark Knock in Symptoms. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and
Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 6659
Knock Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise the vehicle. 3. Remove the knock sensor wiring
harness connector from knock sensor. 4. Remove the knock sensor from engine block.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
NOTE: Do Not apply thread sealant to sensor threads. The sensor is coated at factory and applying
additional sealant will affect the sensors ability to detect detonation.
1. Install the knock sensor into engine block. 2. Install the knock sensor wiring harness connector
to the knock sensor. 3. Lower the vehicle. 4. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug > Component Information >
Specifications > Spark Plug Gap
Spark Plug: Specifications
Spark Plug Gap 0.060 in
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug > Component Information >
Specifications > Spark Plug Gap > Page 6664
Spark Plug: Specifications
Spark Plug Torque 20 lb. ft.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug > Component Information >
Service Precautions > Technician Safety Information
Spark Plug: Technician Safety Information
WARNING: If you smoke while handling coated spark plugs, wear gloves to prevent transfer of
coating to cigarette and subsequent burning of coating. Always wash hands after handling coated
plugs.
CAUTION:
Observe service precautions:
- Allow engine to cool BEFORE removing spark plugs. Attempting to remove spark plugs from a hot
engine may cause plug to seize, causing damage to cylinder head threads.
- Clean spark plug recess area BEFORE removing plug. Failure to do so can result in engine
damage due to dirt or foreign material entering cylinder head, or in contamination of cylinder head
threads. Contaminated threads may prevent proper seating of new plug.
- Use only spark plugs specified for use in the vehicle. DO NOT install spark plugs that are either
"hotter" or "colder" than those specified for the vehicle. Installing plugs of another type can severely
damage the engine.
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Service Precautions > Technician Safety Information > Page 6667
Spark Plug: Vehicle Damage Warnings
WARNING: If you smoke while handling coated spark plugs, wear gloves to prevent transfer of
coating to cigarette and subsequent burning of coating. Always wash hands after handling coated
plugs.
CAUTION:
Observe service precautions:
^ Allow engine to cool BEFORE removing spark plugs. Attempting to remove spark plugs from a
hot engine may cause plug to seize, causing damage to cylinder head threads.
^ Clean spark plug recess area BEFORE removing plug. Failure to do so can result in engine
damage due to dirt or foreign material entering cylinder head, or in contamination of cylinder head
threads. Contaminated threads may prevent proper seating of new plug.
^ Use only spark plugs specified for use in the vehicle. DO NOT install spark plugs that are either
"hotter" or "colder" than those specified for the vehicle. Installing plugs of another type can severely
damage the engine.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug > Component Information >
Service Precautions > Page 6668
Spark Plug: Application and ID
Note: Use recommended part or one of equivalent quality.
AC Type: 41-940
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug > Component Information >
Service Precautions > Page 6669
Spark Plug: Description and Operation
CAUTION: This engine has aluminum cylinder heads. Allow the engine to cool before removing
spark plugs, or the spark plug threads in the cylinder head may be damaged.
DESCRIPTION
This engine uses tapered seat resistor type spark plugs without gaskets. Always replace plugs with
the same spark plug as listed.
OPERATION
Normal service is assumed to be a mixture of idling, slow speed, and high speed driving.
Occasional or intermittent highway driving is needed for good spark plug performance because it
gives increased combustion heat that bums away any excess deposits of carbon or oxides that
have built up from frequent idling or continual stop-and-go driving. Spark plugs are protected by an
insulating boot made of special heat-resistant material which covers the spark plug terminal and
extends downward over a portion of the plug insulator. These boots prevent flash-over which
causes engine mis-firing. Do not mistake corona discharge for flash-over or a shorted insulator.
Corona is a steady blue light appearing around the insulator, just above the shell crimp. It is the
visible evidence of a high-tension field, and has no effect on ignition performance. Usually it can be
detected only in darkness. This discharge may repel dust particles, leaving a clear ring on the
insulator just above the shell. This ring is sometimes mistakenly regarded as evidence that
combustion gases have blown out between shell and insulator.
Spark plugs must operate within certain temperature limits if they are to provide the performance
and service life expected. The spark plug selected for an engine is based on the normal service
which the engine was designed.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug > Component Information >
Service Precautions > Page 6670
Spark Plug: Testing and Inspection
Worn or dirty plugs may give satisfactory operation at idling speed, but under operating conditions
they frequently fail. Faulty plugs are indicated in a number of ways: poor fuel economy, power loss,
loss of speed, hard starting and general poor engine performance.
Spark plugs may also fail due to carbon fouling, excessive gap, or a broken insulator.
Fouled plugs Fouled plugs are identified by black carbon deposits. The black deposits are usually
the result of slow-speed driving and short runs where sufficient engine operating temperature is
seldom reached. Worn pistons, rings, faulty ignition, over-rich air/fuel mixture and spark plugs
which are too cold will also result in carbon deposits.
Excessive gap Excessive gap wear, on plugs of low mileage, usually indicates the engine is
operating at high speeds or loads that are consistently greater than normal or that a plug which is
too hot is being used. Electrode wear may also be the result of plug overheating, caused by
combustion gases leaking past the threads, due to insufficient spark plug torque or too much spark
plug torque. An excessively lean air/fuel mixture will also result in excessive electrode wear.
Broken insulator Broken insulators are usually the result of improper installation or carelessness
when regapping the plug. Broken upper insulators usually result from a poor fitting wrench or an
outside impact. The cracked insulator may not show up right away, but will as soon as oil or
moisture penetrates the crack. The crack is usually just below the crimped part of the shell and
may not be visible.
Broken lower insulators usually result from carelessness when regapping and generally are visible.
This type of break may result from the plug operating too "hot," which may happen in periods of
high-speed operation or under heavy loads. When regapping a spark plug, always make the gap
adjustment by bending the ground (side) electrode. Spark plugs with broken insulators should
always be replaced.
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Service Precautions > Page 6671
Spark Plug: Service and Repair
Spark Plug Wiring
Notice: To avoid engine damage, do not remove spark plugs when engine is warm. Use care when
removing spark plug wire boots from spark plugs. Twist the boot one-half turn while removing, and
pull on THE BOOT ONLY to remove the wire.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Ignition key OFF.
2. Remove foreign material from around the spark plug holes.
3. Remove the spark plugs using a spark plug socket.
Install or Connect
1. Adjust spark plug gap using a round wire type spark plug gap gage. WHILE GAPPING PLUG BE
SURE TO KEEP THE PLATINUM PADS
ALIGNED TO ENSURE MAXIMUM PLUG LIFE. Refer to Specifications for gap specifications.
2. Install new plugs and tighten properly.
Tighten ^
Sparkplugs to 20 Nm (15 lb ft).
^ Reapply dielectric lubricant to insulator boot.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov >
03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov >
03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6683
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov >
03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6684
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6690
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6691
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6692
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove negative battery cable. 2. Remove transaxle case side cover. 3. Remove retainer clip
from the specified solenoid using a small screwdriver. 4. A shift solenoid has one O-ring. The
pressure control solenoid and TCC solenoid have 2 O-rings. Remove the solenoid and O-ring or
O-rings from
transaxle.
IMPORTANT: Inspect the O-rings and solenoids for any damage.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the solenoid and O-ring or O-rings. 2. Install the retainer clip holding the solenoid in the
valve body. 3. Install the transaxle case side cover. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6693
5. Refill transaxle with fluid to proper level. Refer to 4T40E OIL LEVEL CHECKING AND FILL
PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information >
Locations
Under Center Console
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information >
Locations > Page 6697
Brake Transaxle Shift Interlock Solenoid
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair
Shift Solenoid: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove negative battery cable. 2. Remove transaxle case side cover. 3. Remove retainer clip
from the specified solenoid using a small screwdriver. 4. A shift solenoid has one O-ring. The
pressure control solenoid and TCC solenoid have 2 O-rings. Remove the solenoid and O-ring or
O-rings from
transaxle.
IMPORTANT: Inspect the O-rings and solenoids for any damage.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the solenoid and O-ring or O-rings. 2. Install the retainer clip holding the solenoid in the
valve body. 3. Install the transaxle case side cover. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Page 6701
5. Refill transaxle with fluid to proper level. Refer to 4T40E OIL LEVEL CHECKING AND FILL
PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove negative battery cable. 2. Remove transaxle case side cover. 3. Remove retainer clip
from the specified solenoid using a small screwdriver. 4. A shift solenoid has one O-ring. The
pressure control solenoid and TCC solenoid have 2 O-rings. Remove the solenoid and O-ring or
O-rings from
transaxle.
IMPORTANT: Inspect the O-rings and solenoids for any damage.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the solenoid and O-ring or O-rings. 2. Install the retainer clip holding the solenoid in the
valve body. 3. Install the transaxle case side cover. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Page 6705
5. Refill transaxle with fluid to proper level. Refer to 4T40E OIL LEVEL CHECKING AND FILL
PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams
Transaxle Indicator Lamp
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Brake Switch - TCC > Component Information > Description
and Operation
Brake Switch - TCC: Description and Operation
The TCC brake switch signal indicates when the brake pedal is applied. The TCC brake switch
information is used by the PCM mainly to control the Transaxle torque converter clutch. Refer to
Automatic Transmission/Transaxle diagnosis for a complete description and TCC brake switch
diagnosis.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information >
Service and Repair
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove negative battery cable. 2. Remove transaxle case side cover. 3. Remove pressure
switch assembly (6 bolts).
IMPORTANT: Inspect the O-rings for the pressure switch assembly for any damage.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the pressure switch assembly making sure all O-rings are in place. 2. Torque the 6 bolts
holding the pressure switch assembly to 12 Nm (9 ft. lbs.). 3. Install the transaxle case side cover.
4. Connect the negative battery cable. 5. Refill transaxle with fluid to proper level. Refer to 4T40E
OIL LEVEL CHECKING AND FILL PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6727
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6728
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift
Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift
Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6734
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift
Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6735
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: >
01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04 > Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Loose/Missing
Wheel Fastener: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Loose/Missing
Bulletin No.: 01-03-10-009A
Date: July 27, 2004
TECHNICAL
Subject: Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Missing and/or Loose (Replace Missing Covers and Add
Sealant to All Covers)
Models: 2005 and All Prior Passenger Cars (Except All Cadillac Models and Pontiac GTO)
with Plastic Wheel Nut Covers
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add additional models years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 01-03-10-009.
Condition
Some customers may comment that the plastic wheel nut covers are missing and/or loose.
Correction
Important:
^ DO NOT USE a silicone-based adhesive.
^ Do not apply the *permatex(R) around the threads in a circular pattern.
^ Apply a single bead across the threads approximately 10 mm (0.4 in) in length, 5 mm (0.2 in) in
height and 5 mm (0.2 in) in width.
Replace any missing plastic wheel nut covers with the appropriate covers and apply Permatex(R) #
2 Form A Gasket Sealant(R) to the threads of all the plastic wheel nut covers. Tighten finger tight
plus a 1/4 turn with a hand wrench.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such material.
General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the
products from this firm or for any other such items which may be available from other sources.
Permatex(R) # 2 Form A Gasket Sealant(R) part numbers (available at your local parts supplier)
^ P/N 80009 (2A/2AR) - 44 ml (1.5 oz) tube boxed
^ P/N 80015 (2AR) - 44 ml (1.5 oz) tube carded
^ P/N 80010 (2B/2BR) - 89 ml (3 oz) tube boxed
^ P/N 80016 (2BR) - 89 ml (3 oz) tube carded
^ P/N 80011 (2C) - 325 ml (11 oz) tube boxed
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: >
01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04 > Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Loose/Missing > Page 6741
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: >
01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04 > Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Loose/Missing > Page 6747
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6748
Valid Input Combinations
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1
Transaxle Range Switch: C1
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 6751
Transaxle Range Switch: C2
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 6752
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Description and Operation
Valid Input Combinations
DESCRIPTION
The Transaxle Range Switch is part of the Transaxle Park/Neutral Position (PNP) switch mounted
on the transaxle manual shaft. The 4 inputs from the transaxle range switch indicate to the PCM
which position is selected by the Transaxle selector lever. This information is used for transmission
shift control, ignition timing, EVAP canister purge, EGR and Idle Air Control (IAC) valve operation.
The combination of the four transaxle range input states determine the PCM commanded shift
pattern.
The input voltage level at the PCM is high (B+) when the transaxle range switch is open and low
when the switch is closed to ground. The state of each input is represented on the scan tool as
X=high voltage level, O=low voltage level. The four parameters represent transaxle range switch
Parity, A, B, and C inputs respectively.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 6753
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
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Information > Diagrams > Page 6755
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift linkage. 3. Electrical connector. 4. Mounting bolts. 5. Switch
assembly.
REPLACEMENT - USING OLD SWITCH
Install Or Connect 1. Place shift shaft in NEUTRAL. 2. Align flats of shift shaft with switch. 3.
Mounting bolts, loosely. 4. Insert J 41545 and rotate switch until tool drops into position.
Tighten Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Remove Or Disconnect 1. J 41545.
IMPORTANT: After switch adjustment, verify that engine will only start in PARK or NEUTRAL. If engine will start
in any other position, readjust switch.
REPLACEMENT - USING NEW SWITCH
Install Or Connect 1. Place shift shaft in NEUTRAL. 2. Align flats of shift shaft to flats in switch and
install switch assembly. 3. Mounting bolts. 4. Insert tool J 41545 and rotate switch until tool drops
into position.
Tighten Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Important: After switch installation verify that engine will only start in PARK or NEUTRAL. If engine will start in
any other position, readjust switch using Replacement - Using Old Switch procedure.
Adjust 1. Place transaxle control shifter assembly in the NEUTRAL notch in detent plate. 2. Loosen
switch attaching bolts. 3. Rotate switch on shifter assembly to align J 41545.
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Tighten -
Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
4. Remove J 41545.
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Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6789
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6790
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6791
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6792
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 6793
Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Description and Operation
Description
Description
The Transaxle Fluid Temperature (TFT) sensor is a thermistor which changes value based on the
temperature of the transaxle fluid. A high transaxle fluid temperature may cause the vehicle to
operate in "Hot Mode." While in "Hot Mode," shift points may be altered, 4th gear disabled, and
Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) forced ON in 2nd gear.
A failure in the TFT sensor or associated wiring should cause DTC P0712 or P0713 to set. In this
case, engine coolant temperature will be substituted for the TFT sensor value, and the transaxle
will operate normally. Refer to Automatic Transmission/Transaxle Diagnosis for a complete
description of the TFT sensor.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6802
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6803
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-06-04-005 > Jan > 00 > PCM - Cold Engine Idle
Hunt/Surge
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: Customer Interest PCM - Cold Engine Idle Hunt/Surge
Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-005
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Date: January, 2000
Subject: Cold Engine Idle Hunt/Surge (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with 3.1 L Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
Condition
Some owners may comment on a cold engine idle hunt or surge, which diminishes as engine
reaches operating temperature.
Cause
The PCM calibration under certain ambient conditions may induce this condition.
Correction
A revised calibration has been released to correct this condition. Reprogram the vehicle using the
appropriate calibration listed below.
Parts Information
Part Number Description
09383354 PCM CAL, US 50 STATES
The calibration listed is an electronic calibration and is NOT available from GMSPO. The calibration
is available from Techline starting June 1999, on the TIS 2000 Disk 12 CD ROM.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description Labor Time
J6355 Prom - Reprogramming, Use Published
On Car Labor Time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 77-65-14A > May > 98 > PROM - False DTC P0121,
Throttle Position Sensor
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: Customer Interest PROM - False DTC P0121, Throttle
Position Sensor
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-14A
Date: May, 1998
Subject: False DTC P0121 (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1997 Buick Century, Skylark 1997 Chevrolet Lumina, Monte Carlo, Malibu, Venture 1997
Oldsmobile Achieva, Cutlass, Cutlass Supreme, Silhouette 1997 Pontiac Grand Am, Grand Prix,
Trans Sport with 3100/3400 V6 Engine (VINs M, E - RPOs L82, LA1)
This bulletin is being revised to add additional models and calibration numbers. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin 77-65-14 (Section 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission).
Condition
Some owners may experience a MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) light illuminated on the vehicle's
instrument panel. Additionally, the engine's normal controlled idle speed may be slightly elevated
when the MIL is illuminated.
Cause
The current DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) P0121 is too sensitive. The rational check that the
diagnostic calibration performs has been changed. Part of those changes involve eliminating the
defaulted higher idle.
Correction
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 77-65-14A > May > 98 > PROM - False DTC P0121,
Throttle Position Sensor > Page 6812
Check the calibration identification number utilizing a scan tool device. Re-flash with the updated
calibration if the current calibration is not one listed in this bulletin. If the vehicle already has the
most recent calibration, then refer to the appropriate service repair manual to diagnose and repair
for DTC P0121. Test drive the vehicle after repair to ensure that the condition has been corrected.
The new calibrations are available from the GM Service Technology Group starting with CD
number 6 for 1998.
Important:
Do not attempt to order the calibrations from GMSPO. The calibrations are programmed into the
vehicles PCM via a Techline Tool device.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
J6355 On-Car Prom Use published
Reprogramming labor operation
Flash E Prom time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: Customer Interest PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-17
Date: July, 1997
Subject: Unstable Engine Idle (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with 3100 V6 Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
Condition
Some owners may experience an unstable engine idle. The controlled engine idle may vary
approximately 50 RPM from desired idle. This typically occurs during an extended idle period
beyond 30 seconds with the transmission in park or neutral and the air conditioning turned off.
Cause
The Pre Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S1) voltage output is driven low and holds there
(lean). The Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2s2) voltage output will hold then at a high
voltage (rich). This can drive one sensor to cancel out the other thus not allowing fuel trim or the
Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor can take over fuel trim control. If the Post Converter
Heated Oxygen takes over fuel trim control, the system thinks it is running rich and the Long Term
Fuel Trim will make adjustments to lean the system. Either of these conditions will cause a rolling
or hunting idle.
Correction
Check the calibration identification number utilizing a scan tool device. Re-flash with the updated
calibration if the current calibration is not one listed in this bulletin. If the vehicle already has the
most recent calibration, then refer to the appropriate service repair manual to diagnose and repair.
Test drive the vehicle after repair to ensure that the condition has been corrected. The new
calibrations are available from the GM Service Technology Group starting with CD number 12 for
1997.
Important:
There are three methods for programming a PCM
1. Direct Programming. The vehicle is directly connected via the Data Link Connector (DLC) on the
Dealers/Retailers Techline equipment. (T-20 Plus, T-50 and T-60 only) Vehicle must be present.
2. Remote programming. The new program is downloaded into the Dealers/Retailers scan tool and
then downloaded into the vehicle from the scan tool via the DLC. Tech 2 required. Vehicle must be
present.
3. Off-Car Programming. A PCM may be programmed while removed from the vehicle by using the
off-board programming adapter (OBPA), P/N 41207-B. This adapter can be connected to either the
Techline Terminal for direct programming or the scan tool for remote programming. Not necessary
for the vehicle to be present.
Refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Techline Information for more detailed instructions.
Parts Information
Part Number Carline Emission
16266904 Malibu, Cutlass USA Nationwide
16266914 Malibu, Cutlass Canadian/Unleaded
Export
16266924 Malibu Leaded Export
Important:
Do not attempt to order the calibrations from GMSPO. The calibrations are programmed into the
vehicle's PCM via a Techline Tool device.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable Engine Idle >
Page 6817
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6823
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6824
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
00-06-04-005 > Jan > 00 > PCM - Cold Engine Idle Hunt/Surge
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM - Cold Engine
Idle Hunt/Surge
Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-005
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Date: January, 2000
Subject: Cold Engine Idle Hunt/Surge (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with 3.1 L Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
Condition
Some owners may comment on a cold engine idle hunt or surge, which diminishes as engine
reaches operating temperature.
Cause
The PCM calibration under certain ambient conditions may induce this condition.
Correction
A revised calibration has been released to correct this condition. Reprogram the vehicle using the
appropriate calibration listed below.
Parts Information
Part Number Description
09383354 PCM CAL, US 50 STATES
The calibration listed is an electronic calibration and is NOT available from GMSPO. The calibration
is available from Techline starting June 1999, on the TIS 2000 Disk 12 CD ROM.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description Labor Time
J6355 Prom - Reprogramming, Use Published
On Car Labor Time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
99-06-04-053 > Nov > 99 > PROM - Powertrain Control Module Reprogramming
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Powertrain
Control Module Reprogramming
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 99-06-04-053
Date: November, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Reprogramming (Do Not Reprogram Using the Same
Download Files as Those Already Present in The Control Module)
Models: 1990-2000 Passenger Cars and Trucks with Reprogrammable PCM
It is strongly recommended to NOT reinstall the same software and/or calibration download file(s)
into the powertrain control module as those that are already present in the PCM. There is no
technical reason that the download files inside the PCM would ever become corrupted after the
control module had previously been successfully programmed. A P0601 (Control Module Read
Only Memory) Diagnostic Trouble Code would set in memory and the MIL would be illuminated if
the controller memory became corrupted.
The Techline Information System 2000 (TIS 2000) PC, combined with vehicle information gained
through the Tech 2, can determine when an attempt to reprogram a PCM using the same download
files (as those already in the control module) is being requested. If this is attempted, the TIS 2000
PC currently displays the following message:
Notice:
THE CALIBRATION SELECTED IS THE CURRENT CALIBRATION IN THE CONTROL MODULE.
PROGRAMMING WITH THE SAME DOWNLOAD FILES IS NOT AN EFFECTIVE REPAIR.
SELECT ( YES ) TO CONTINUE PROGRAMMING THE CONTROL MODULE,OR ( NO ) TO
CANCEL.
Effective in the first quarter of 2000, the TIS 2000 PC will indicate:
Important:
THE CALIBRATION SELECTED IS ALREADY THE CURRENT CALIBRATION IN THE CONTROL
MODULE. REPROGRAMMING WITH THE SAME DOWNLOAD FILE IS NOT ALLOWED.
Certain learned values, such as: (but not limited to)
^ fuel trim (previously known as block learn memory),
^ IAC learned position in various park/neutral and air conditioning on/off combinations,
^ certain OBDII diagnostic thresholds,
^ automatic transmission shift adapts
will revert back to their unlearned starting point values after a reprogramming event occurs.
It is feasible that the engine or transmission might temporarily operate differently after a
reprogramming event, until these values are re-learned. Relearning occurs while operating the
vehicle through normal driving routines. If the same download files are simply reinstalled, any
changes noticed in engine operation will likely disappear in a short amount of time and/or driving
distance.
Reprogramming the control module with the same download files that already exist in the module
will only accomplish a warranty claim for a non-effective repair, and a likely comeback.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
77-65-14A > May > 98 > PROM - False DTC P0121, Throttle Position Sensor
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - False DTC
P0121, Throttle Position Sensor
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-14A
Date: May, 1998
Subject: False DTC P0121 (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1997 Buick Century, Skylark 1997 Chevrolet Lumina, Monte Carlo, Malibu, Venture 1997
Oldsmobile Achieva, Cutlass, Cutlass Supreme, Silhouette 1997 Pontiac Grand Am, Grand Prix,
Trans Sport with 3100/3400 V6 Engine (VINs M, E - RPOs L82, LA1)
This bulletin is being revised to add additional models and calibration numbers. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin 77-65-14 (Section 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission).
Condition
Some owners may experience a MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) light illuminated on the vehicle's
instrument panel. Additionally, the engine's normal controlled idle speed may be slightly elevated
when the MIL is illuminated.
Cause
The current DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) P0121 is too sensitive. The rational check that the
diagnostic calibration performs has been changed. Part of those changes involve eliminating the
defaulted higher idle.
Correction
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
77-65-14A > May > 98 > PROM - False DTC P0121, Throttle Position Sensor > Page 6837
Check the calibration identification number utilizing a scan tool device. Re-flash with the updated
calibration if the current calibration is not one listed in this bulletin. If the vehicle already has the
most recent calibration, then refer to the appropriate service repair manual to diagnose and repair
for DTC P0121. Test drive the vehicle after repair to ensure that the condition has been corrected.
The new calibrations are available from the GM Service Technology Group starting with CD
number 6 for 1998.
Important:
Do not attempt to order the calibrations from GMSPO. The calibrations are programmed into the
vehicles PCM via a Techline Tool device.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
J6355 On-Car Prom Use published
Reprogramming labor operation
Flash E Prom time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable Engine Idle
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Unstable
Engine Idle
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 77-65-17
Date: July, 1997
Subject: Unstable Engine Idle (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass with 3100 V6 Engine (VIN M - RPO L82)
Condition
Some owners may experience an unstable engine idle. The controlled engine idle may vary
approximately 50 RPM from desired idle. This typically occurs during an extended idle period
beyond 30 seconds with the transmission in park or neutral and the air conditioning turned off.
Cause
The Pre Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S1) voltage output is driven low and holds there
(lean). The Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2s2) voltage output will hold then at a high
voltage (rich). This can drive one sensor to cancel out the other thus not allowing fuel trim or the
Post Converter Heated Oxygen Sensor can take over fuel trim control. If the Post Converter
Heated Oxygen takes over fuel trim control, the system thinks it is running rich and the Long Term
Fuel Trim will make adjustments to lean the system. Either of these conditions will cause a rolling
or hunting idle.
Correction
Check the calibration identification number utilizing a scan tool device. Re-flash with the updated
calibration if the current calibration is not one listed in this bulletin. If the vehicle already has the
most recent calibration, then refer to the appropriate service repair manual to diagnose and repair.
Test drive the vehicle after repair to ensure that the condition has been corrected. The new
calibrations are available from the GM Service Technology Group starting with CD number 12 for
1997.
Important:
There are three methods for programming a PCM
1. Direct Programming. The vehicle is directly connected via the Data Link Connector (DLC) on the
Dealers/Retailers Techline equipment. (T-20 Plus, T-50 and T-60 only) Vehicle must be present.
2. Remote programming. The new program is downloaded into the Dealers/Retailers scan tool and
then downloaded into the vehicle from the scan tool via the DLC. Tech 2 required. Vehicle must be
present.
3. Off-Car Programming. A PCM may be programmed while removed from the vehicle by using the
off-board programming adapter (OBPA), P/N 41207-B. This adapter can be connected to either the
Techline Terminal for direct programming or the scan tool for remote programming. Not necessary
for the vehicle to be present.
Refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Techline Information for more detailed instructions.
Parts Information
Part Number Carline Emission
16266904 Malibu, Cutlass USA Nationwide
16266914 Malibu, Cutlass Canadian/Unleaded
Export
16266924 Malibu Leaded Export
Important:
Do not attempt to order the calibrations from GMSPO. The calibrations are programmed into the
vehicle's PCM via a Techline Tool device.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
77-65-17 > Jul > 97 > PROM - Unstable Engine Idle > Page 6842
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Reprogram
Using Off Board Program Adapter
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 73-65-13
Date: March, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Reprogramming Capability using the Off Board Programming Adapter
Models: 1993-97 Passenger Cars and Trucks (Applicable Reprogrammable Vehicles)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 6847
The General Motors vehicles contain Electronically Reprogrammable Devices (i.e. PCM, VCM,
ECM). These vehicles cannot be programmed through PROM replacement, however service
programming capability is available through the Tech 1/1A, Tech 2 and Techline terminals via
direct or remote programming.
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has requested that all new vehicle manufacturers
ensure their dealers/retailers are aware that they are responsible for providing customers access to
reprogramming services at a reasonable cost and in a timely manner.
Although programming of controllers has become a common service practice at GM
dealers/retailers, the EPA has received reports from consumers and the aftermarket repair industry
that they were unable to purchase a new (programmed) Electronically Reprogrammable Device
(ERD) over-the-counter. As a result, on August 1, 1995, the Federal Government issued a
regulation requiring all manufacturers to make available reprogramming to the independent
aftermarket by December 1, 1997.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 6848
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 6849
Today, the Off Board Programming Adapter (OBPA) is used to reprogram ERD's sold
over-the-counter. For all practical purposes, the OBPA takes the place of the vehicle when the
vehicle is not available.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 6850
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 6851
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 6852
The list of dealerships/retailers currently own the OBPA (see Attachments 1 - 3). These locations
are equipped to provide over-the-counter preprogrammed ERD's. The hardware required to
perform reprogramming in addition to the OBPA is a Techline terminal, Tech 1/1A and associated
cables and adapters. THE TECH 2 SHOULD NOT BE USED WITH THE OBPA AT THIS TIME
BECAUSE OF INADEQUATE OBPA GROUNDING.
The current OBPA can support reprogramming on all late model General Motor's vehicles except:
^ Premium V-8's
^ 1996 Diesel Truck
^ Cadillac Catera
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 6853
^ All 1997 programmable vehicles (requires use of the Tech 2)
A modification to the OBPA is being offered by Kent-Moore to support these additional vehicles and
to allow reprogramming using the Tech 2. The revisions to the OBPA for the Tech 2 is very
important as the Tech 2 is the only tool used for service programming for 1997 and future vehicles.
To have the modifications performed, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The revisions (part
number J 41207 REV-C) are free of charge for GM dealerships/retailers.
A dealership/retailer can purchase the OBPA by contacting Kent-Moore (part number J 41207-C).
Support on how to use the OBPA is provided by the Techline Customer Support Center (TCSC) at
(800) 828-6860 (English) or (800) 503-3222 (French).
If you need to purchase an OBPA and/or cable, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The OBPA
retails for $695.00 (includes all revisions 1-4) under part number J 41207-C.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
99-06-04-053 > Nov > 99 > PROM - Powertrain Control Module Reprogramming
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Powertrain
Control Module Reprogramming
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 99-06-04-053
Date: November, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Reprogramming (Do Not Reprogram Using the Same
Download Files as Those Already Present in The Control Module)
Models: 1990-2000 Passenger Cars and Trucks with Reprogrammable PCM
It is strongly recommended to NOT reinstall the same software and/or calibration download file(s)
into the powertrain control module as those that are already present in the PCM. There is no
technical reason that the download files inside the PCM would ever become corrupted after the
control module had previously been successfully programmed. A P0601 (Control Module Read
Only Memory) Diagnostic Trouble Code would set in memory and the MIL would be illuminated if
the controller memory became corrupted.
The Techline Information System 2000 (TIS 2000) PC, combined with vehicle information gained
through the Tech 2, can determine when an attempt to reprogram a PCM using the same download
files (as those already in the control module) is being requested. If this is attempted, the TIS 2000
PC currently displays the following message:
Notice:
THE CALIBRATION SELECTED IS THE CURRENT CALIBRATION IN THE CONTROL MODULE.
PROGRAMMING WITH THE SAME DOWNLOAD FILES IS NOT AN EFFECTIVE REPAIR.
SELECT ( YES ) TO CONTINUE PROGRAMMING THE CONTROL MODULE,OR ( NO ) TO
CANCEL.
Effective in the first quarter of 2000, the TIS 2000 PC will indicate:
Important:
THE CALIBRATION SELECTED IS ALREADY THE CURRENT CALIBRATION IN THE CONTROL
MODULE. REPROGRAMMING WITH THE SAME DOWNLOAD FILE IS NOT ALLOWED.
Certain learned values, such as: (but not limited to)
^ fuel trim (previously known as block learn memory),
^ IAC learned position in various park/neutral and air conditioning on/off combinations,
^ certain OBDII diagnostic thresholds,
^ automatic transmission shift adapts
will revert back to their unlearned starting point values after a reprogramming event occurs.
It is feasible that the engine or transmission might temporarily operate differently after a
reprogramming event, until these values are re-learned. Relearning occurs while operating the
vehicle through normal driving routines. If the same download files are simply reinstalled, any
changes noticed in engine operation will likely disappear in a short amount of time and/or driving
distance.
Reprogramming the control module with the same download files that already exist in the module
will only accomplish a warranty claim for a non-effective repair, and a likely comeback.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Reprogram
Using Off Board Program Adapter
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 73-65-13
Date: March, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Reprogramming Capability using the Off Board Programming Adapter
Models: 1993-97 Passenger Cars and Trucks (Applicable Reprogrammable Vehicles)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 6863
The General Motors vehicles contain Electronically Reprogrammable Devices (i.e. PCM, VCM,
ECM). These vehicles cannot be programmed through PROM replacement, however service
programming capability is available through the Tech 1/1A, Tech 2 and Techline terminals via
direct or remote programming.
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has requested that all new vehicle manufacturers
ensure their dealers/retailers are aware that they are responsible for providing customers access to
reprogramming services at a reasonable cost and in a timely manner.
Although programming of controllers has become a common service practice at GM
dealers/retailers, the EPA has received reports from consumers and the aftermarket repair industry
that they were unable to purchase a new (programmed) Electronically Reprogrammable Device
(ERD) over-the-counter. As a result, on August 1, 1995, the Federal Government issued a
regulation requiring all manufacturers to make available reprogramming to the independent
aftermarket by December 1, 1997.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 6864
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 6865
Today, the Off Board Programming Adapter (OBPA) is used to reprogram ERD's sold
over-the-counter. For all practical purposes, the OBPA takes the place of the vehicle when the
vehicle is not available.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 6866
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 6867
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 6868
The list of dealerships/retailers currently own the OBPA (see Attachments 1 - 3). These locations
are equipped to provide over-the-counter preprogrammed ERD's. The hardware required to
perform reprogramming in addition to the OBPA is a Techline terminal, Tech 1/1A and associated
cables and adapters. THE TECH 2 SHOULD NOT BE USED WITH THE OBPA AT THIS TIME
BECAUSE OF INADEQUATE OBPA GROUNDING.
The current OBPA can support reprogramming on all late model General Motor's vehicles except:
^ Premium V-8's
^ 1996 Diesel Truck
^ Cadillac Catera
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 6869
^ All 1997 programmable vehicles (requires use of the Tech 2)
A modification to the OBPA is being offered by Kent-Moore to support these additional vehicles and
to allow reprogramming using the Tech 2. The revisions to the OBPA for the Tech 2 is very
important as the Tech 2 is the only tool used for service programming for 1997 and future vehicles.
To have the modifications performed, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The revisions (part
number J 41207 REV-C) are free of charge for GM dealerships/retailers.
A dealership/retailer can purchase the OBPA by contacting Kent-Moore (part number J 41207-C).
Support on how to use the OBPA is provided by the Techline Customer Support Center (TCSC) at
(800) 828-6860 (English) or (800) 503-3222 (French).
If you need to purchase an OBPA and/or cable, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The OBPA
retails for $695.00 (includes all revisions 1-4) under part number J 41207-C.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Customer Interest for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Customer Interest for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON > Page 6881
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Customer Interest for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON > Page 6882
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> All Technical Service Bulletins for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> All Technical Service Bulletins for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6888
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> All Technical Service Bulletins for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 6889
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Page 6890
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove negative battery cable. 2. Remove transaxle case side cover. 3. Remove retainer clip
from the specified solenoid using a small screwdriver. 4. A shift solenoid has one O-ring. The
pressure control solenoid and TCC solenoid have 2 O-rings. Remove the solenoid and O-ring or
O-rings from
transaxle.
IMPORTANT: Inspect the O-rings and solenoids for any damage.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the solenoid and O-ring or O-rings. 2. Install the retainer clip holding the solenoid in the
valve body. 3. Install the transaxle case side cover. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Page 6891
5. Refill transaxle with fluid to proper level. Refer to 4T40E OIL LEVEL CHECKING AND FILL
PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information > Locations
Under Center Console
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information > Locations > Page 6895
Brake Transaxle Shift Interlock Solenoid
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair
Shift Solenoid: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove negative battery cable. 2. Remove transaxle case side cover. 3. Remove retainer clip
from the specified solenoid using a small screwdriver. 4. A shift solenoid has one O-ring. The
pressure control solenoid and TCC solenoid have 2 O-rings. Remove the solenoid and O-ring or
O-rings from
transaxle.
IMPORTANT: Inspect the O-rings and solenoids for any damage.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the solenoid and O-ring or O-rings. 2. Install the retainer clip holding the solenoid in the
valve body. 3. Install the transaxle case side cover. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 6899
5. Refill transaxle with fluid to proper level. Refer to 4T40E OIL LEVEL CHECKING AND FILL
PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove negative battery cable. 2. Remove transaxle case side cover. 3. Remove retainer clip
from the specified solenoid using a small screwdriver. 4. A shift solenoid has one O-ring. The
pressure control solenoid and TCC solenoid have 2 O-rings. Remove the solenoid and O-ring or
O-rings from
transaxle.
IMPORTANT: Inspect the O-rings and solenoids for any damage.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the solenoid and O-ring or O-rings. 2. Install the retainer clip holding the solenoid in the
valve body. 3. Install the transaxle case side cover. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Page 6903
5. Refill transaxle with fluid to proper level. Refer to 4T40E OIL LEVEL CHECKING AND FILL
PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page
6914
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page
6915
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp
ON
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp
ON > Page 6921
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp
ON > Page 6922
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6923
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove negative battery cable. 2. Remove transaxle case side cover. 3. Remove retainer clip
from the specified solenoid using a small screwdriver. 4. A shift solenoid has one O-ring. The
pressure control solenoid and TCC solenoid have 2 O-rings. Remove the solenoid and O-ring or
O-rings from
transaxle.
IMPORTANT: Inspect the O-rings and solenoids for any damage.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the solenoid and O-ring or O-rings. 2. Install the retainer clip holding the solenoid in the
valve body. 3. Install the transaxle case side cover. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6924
5. Refill transaxle with fluid to proper level. Refer to 4T40E OIL LEVEL CHECKING AND FILL
PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information > Locations
Under Center Console
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information > Locations > Page 6928
Brake Transaxle Shift Interlock Solenoid
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair
Shift Solenoid: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove negative battery cable. 2. Remove transaxle case side cover. 3. Remove retainer clip
from the specified solenoid using a small screwdriver. 4. A shift solenoid has one O-ring. The
pressure control solenoid and TCC solenoid have 2 O-rings. Remove the solenoid and O-ring or
O-rings from
transaxle.
IMPORTANT: Inspect the O-rings and solenoids for any damage.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the solenoid and O-ring or O-rings. 2. Install the retainer clip holding the solenoid in the
valve body. 3. Install the transaxle case side cover. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 6932
5. Refill transaxle with fluid to proper level. Refer to 4T40E OIL LEVEL CHECKING AND FILL
PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove negative battery cable. 2. Remove transaxle case side cover. 3. Remove retainer clip
from the specified solenoid using a small screwdriver. 4. A shift solenoid has one O-ring. The
pressure control solenoid and TCC solenoid have 2 O-rings. Remove the solenoid and O-ring or
O-rings from
transaxle.
IMPORTANT: Inspect the O-rings and solenoids for any damage.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the solenoid and O-ring or O-rings. 2. Install the retainer clip holding the solenoid in the
valve body. 3. Install the transaxle case side cover. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 6936
5. Refill transaxle with fluid to proper level. Refer to 4T40E OIL LEVEL CHECKING AND FILL
PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Band Apply Servo: > 04-07-30-028A > Jan
> 06 > A/T - 4T65-E Fluid Leaks From Reverse Servo Cover
Band Apply Servo: Customer Interest A/T - 4T65-E Fluid Leaks From Reverse Servo Cover
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-028A
Date: January 12, 2006
TECHNICAL
Subject: 4T65-E Automatic Transmission Fluid Leak From Reverse Servo Cover (Replace Reverse
Servo Cover Seal)
Models: 2005 and Prior Cars and Light Duty Trucks
with Automatic Transmission 4T65-E (RPOs MN3, MN7, M15, M76)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to announce an improved reverse servo cover seal is available from
GMSPO and to advise technicians that it is no longer necessary to replace the reverse servo cover
when replacing the seal. The 2005 model year vehicles are also being added. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 04-07-30-028 (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a fluid leak under the vehicle. A transmission fluid leak may be
noted during the Pre-delivery Inspection (PDI).
Cause
A possible cause of a transmission fluid leak usually only during cold ambient temperatures below
-6.7°C (20°F) may be the reverse servo cover seal. The reverse servo cover seal may shrink in
cold ambient temperatures causing a transmission fluid leak.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and repair procedure below to correct this condition.
1. Diagnose the source of the fluid leak.
2. If the source of the transmission fluid leak is the reverse servo cover, replace the reverse servo
cover seal with P/N 24235894. Refer to Reverse Servo Replacement in the appropriate Service
Manual.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Band Apply Servo: > 04-07-30-028A > Jan
> 06 > A/T - 4T65-E Fluid Leaks From Reverse Servo Cover > Page 6945
3. Clean the area around and below the cover.
4. Inspect the transmission fluid level. Refer to Transmission Fluid Checking Procedure in the
appropriate Service Manual.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Band Apply Servo: >
04-07-30-028A > Jan > 06 > A/T - 4T65-E Fluid Leaks From Reverse Servo Cover
Band Apply Servo: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 4T65-E Fluid Leaks From Reverse Servo
Cover
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-028A
Date: January 12, 2006
TECHNICAL
Subject: 4T65-E Automatic Transmission Fluid Leak From Reverse Servo Cover (Replace Reverse
Servo Cover Seal)
Models: 2005 and Prior Cars and Light Duty Trucks
with Automatic Transmission 4T65-E (RPOs MN3, MN7, M15, M76)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to announce an improved reverse servo cover seal is available from
GMSPO and to advise technicians that it is no longer necessary to replace the reverse servo cover
when replacing the seal. The 2005 model year vehicles are also being added. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 04-07-30-028 (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a fluid leak under the vehicle. A transmission fluid leak may be
noted during the Pre-delivery Inspection (PDI).
Cause
A possible cause of a transmission fluid leak usually only during cold ambient temperatures below
-6.7°C (20°F) may be the reverse servo cover seal. The reverse servo cover seal may shrink in
cold ambient temperatures causing a transmission fluid leak.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and repair procedure below to correct this condition.
1. Diagnose the source of the fluid leak.
2. If the source of the transmission fluid leak is the reverse servo cover, replace the reverse servo
cover seal with P/N 24235894. Refer to Reverse Servo Replacement in the appropriate Service
Manual.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Band Apply Servo: >
04-07-30-028A > Jan > 06 > A/T - 4T65-E Fluid Leaks From Reverse Servo Cover > Page 6951
3. Clean the area around and below the cover.
4. Inspect the transmission fluid level. Refer to Transmission Fluid Checking Procedure in the
appropriate Service Manual.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Service and Repair > LO/Reverse Servo Assembly
Band Apply Servo: Service and Repair LO/Reverse Servo Assembly
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Raise vehicle and support the vehicle. 3. Servo cover bolts and cover.
4. Snap ring, piston assembly, sealing ring, and servo spring.
- For disassembly of the servo piston assembly, refer to TRANSFER CASE.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Servo spring, sealing ring, piston assembly, snap ring, cover assembly and bolts.
Tighten Servo cover bolts on 4T40E transaxle to 12 Nm (9 ft. lbs.).
2. Lower vehicle. 3. Negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Service and Repair > LO/Reverse Servo Assembly > Page 6954
Band Apply Servo: Service and Repair Intermediate/4TH Servo Assembly
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Service and Repair > LO/Reverse Servo Assembly > Page 6955
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Raise vehicle and support the vehicle. 3. Servo cover bolts and cover.
4. Snap ring, piston assembly, sealing ring, and servo spring.
- For disassembly of the servo piston assembly, refer to TRANSFER CASE.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Servo spring, sealing ring, piston assembly, snap ring, cover assembly and bolts.
Tighten Servo cover bolts on 4T40E transaxle to 12 Nm (16 inch lbs.).
2. Lower vehicle. 3. Negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Brake Switch - TCC >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Brake Switch - TCC: Description and Operation
The TCC brake switch signal indicates when the brake pedal is applied. The TCC brake switch
information is used by the PCM mainly to control the Transaxle torque converter clutch. Refer to
Automatic Transmission/Transaxle diagnosis for a complete description and TCC brake switch
diagnosis.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Case, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Case Side Cover and Oil Pan Bolts
Case: Service and Repair Case Side Cover and Oil Pan Bolts
The self tapping bolts should be replaced with the appropriate standard service fasteners if the
valve body cover of oil pan bolts are removed. Refer to TRANSFER CASE for further details.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Case, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Case Side Cover and Oil Pan Bolts > Page 6963
Case: Service and Repair Case Side Cover
Removal Procedure
^ Tools Required: J 28467-360 Engine Support Fixture
- J 24319-B Steering Linkage Puller
- J 38892 Ball Joint Separator
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Install Engine Support Fixture, J 28467-360. 3. Air cleaner assembly.
4. Upper transaxle support assembly bolts. 5. Upper case side cover bolts. 6. Raise vehicle and
support the vehicle. 7. Left wheel and tire assembly. 8. Left splash shield. 9. Transaxle mount pipe
expansion bolt.
10. Transaxle mount to body bolts. 11. Lower transaxle support assembly bolts. 12. Transaxle
mount and support assembly. 13. Left outer tie rod from steering knuckle assembly using J
24319-B. 14. Left ball joint from steering knuckle assembly using J 38892. 15. Brake caliper from
steering knuckle assembly and support with line attached. 16. Drive axle from transaxle and
support. 17. Front suspension support brace. 18. Oil cooler lines from transaxle. 19. Clips attaching
wire harness to body. 20. Remove left suspension support bolts and loosen right bolts enough to
remove case side cover. 21. Lower vehicle. 22. Lower transaxle with engine support fixture enough
to remove case side cover. 23. Raise vehicle. 24. Case side cover bolts. 25. Case side cover and
gasket.
Clean
- Case and side cover gasket surfaces.
Installation Procedure
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Case, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Case Side Cover and Oil Pan Bolts > Page 6964
^ Tools Required: J 28467-360 Engine Support Fixture
- J 24319-B Steering Linkage Puller
- J 38892 Ball Joint Separator
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install seal protector into side cover to prevent the seal from rolling. 2. Case side cover and
gasket. 3. Case side cover lower bolts.
Tighten Case side cover bolts in a general star pattern to 28 Nm (21 ft. lbs.).
4. Loosely install transaxle support assembly with lower bolts. 5. Lower vehicle. 6. Raise transaxle
with engine support fixture. 7. Case side cover upper bolts.
Tighten Case side cover bolts in a general star pattern to 28 Nm (21 ft. lbs.).
8. Upper transaxle support assembly bolts, refer to TRANSAXLE MOUNT. 9. Raise vehicle.
10. Lower transaxle support assembly bolts. 11. Transaxle mount. 12. Transaxle mount to body
bolts, refer to TRANSAXLE MOUNT. 13. Attach wire harness to body. 14. Oil cooler lines to
transaxle, refer to TRANSAXLE OIL COOLER PIPES. 15. Suspension support bolts, refer to
FRONT SUSPENSION. 16. Front suspension support brace. 17. Drive axle to transaxle. 18. Left
ball joint to steering knuckle assembly, refer to FRONT SUSPENSION. 19. Left outer tie rod to
steering knuckle assembly, refer to POWER STEERING GEAR AND PUMP ON-VEHICLE
SERVICE. 20. Brake caliper to steering knuckle assembly, refer to FRONT DISC BRAKES. 21. Left
splash shield. 22. Left wheel and tire assembly. 23. Lower vehicle. 24. Air cleaner assembly. 25.
Remove engine support fixture. 26. Negative battery cable. 27. Apply brakes, start engine and shift
transaxle from reverse to drive. 28. Transaxle mount pipe expansion bolt.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Channel Plate, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 01-07-30-032E > Sep > 08 > A/T - 4T65E Fluid
Leaking From A/T Vent
Channel Plate: Customer Interest A/T - 4T65E Fluid Leaking From A/T Vent
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-032E
Date: September 29, 2008
Subject: Transmission Oil Leaking From Transmission Vent (Replace Transmission Case Cover
(Channel Plate) Gasket)
Models: 1997-2009 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)
with Hydra-Matic 4T65-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs MN3, MN7, M15, M76)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2008 and 2009 model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 01-07-30-032D (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a transmission oil leak.
Cause
This condition may be caused by an improperly torqued channel plate gasket.
Correction
To correct this condition, replace the case cover (channel plate) gaskets (429 and 430). Refer to
Unit Repair publication in SI of the appropriate vehicle being serviced.
Visual inspection of the upper gasket (1) will reveal damage at the referenced area.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Channel Plate, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 01-07-30-032E > Sep > 08 > A/T - 4T65E Fluid
Leaking From A/T Vent > Page 6973
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Channel Plate, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 01-07-30-036H > Jan > 09 > A/T
Control - DTC P0756 Diagnostic Tips
Channel Plate: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T Control - DTC P0756 Diagnostic Tips
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-036H
Date: January 29, 2009
Subject: Diagnostic Tips for Automatic Transmission DTC P0756, Second, Third, Fourth Gear Start
Models: 2009 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2009 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
with 4L60-E, 4L65-E or 4L70E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30, M32 or M70)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2009 model year and add details regarding spacer plates.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-036G (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Some dealership technicians may have difficulty diagnosing DTC P0756, 2-3 Shift Valve
Performance on 4L60-E, 4L65-E or 4L70E automatic transmissions. As detailed in the Service
Manual, when the PCM detects a 4-3-3-4 shift pattern, DTC P0756 will set. Some customers may
also describe a condition of a second, third or fourth gear start that may have the same causes but
has not set this DTC yet. Below are some tips when diagnosing this DTC:
^ This is a performance code. This means that a mechanical malfunction exists.
^ This code is not set by electrical issues such as a damaged wiring harness or poor electrical
connections. Electrical problems would cause a DTC P0758, P0787 or P0788 to set.
^ The most likely cause is chips/debris plugging the filtered AFL oil at orifice # 29 on the top of the
spacer plate (48). This is a very small hole and is easily plugged by a small amount of debris. It is
important to remove the spacer plate and inspect orifice # 29 and the immediate area for the
presence of chips/debris. Also, the transmission case passage directly above this orifice and the
valve body passage directly below should be inspected and cleaned of any chips/debris. For 2003
and newer vehicles the spacer plate should be replaced. The service replacement spacer plate is a
bonded style with gaskets and solenoid filter screens bonded to the spacer plate. These screens
can help to prevent plugging of orifice # 29 caused by small debris or chips.
^ This code could be set if the 2-3 shift valve (368) were stuck or hung-up in its bore. Inspect the
2-3 shift valve (368) and the 2-3 shuttle valve (369) for free movement or damage and clean the
valves, the bore and the valve body passages.
^ This code could be set by a 2-3 shift solenoid (367b) if it were cracked, broken or leaking. Refer
to Shift Solenoid Leak Test in the appropriate Service Manual for the leak test procedure. Based on
parts return findings, a damaged or leaking shift solenoid is the least likely cause of this condition.
Simply replacing a shift solenoid will not correct this condition unless the solenoid has been found
to be cracked, broken or leaking.
It is important to also refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Service Information (SI) for further
possible causes of this condition.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Channel Plate, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 01-07-30-032E > Sep > 08 > A/T 4T65E Fluid Leaking From A/T Vent
Channel Plate: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 4T65E Fluid Leaking From A/T Vent
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-032E
Date: September 29, 2008
Subject: Transmission Oil Leaking From Transmission Vent (Replace Transmission Case Cover
(Channel Plate) Gasket)
Models: 1997-2009 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)
with Hydra-Matic 4T65-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs MN3, MN7, M15, M76)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2008 and 2009 model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 01-07-30-032D (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a transmission oil leak.
Cause
This condition may be caused by an improperly torqued channel plate gasket.
Correction
To correct this condition, replace the case cover (channel plate) gaskets (429 and 430). Refer to
Unit Repair publication in SI of the appropriate vehicle being serviced.
Visual inspection of the upper gasket (1) will reveal damage at the referenced area.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Channel Plate, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 01-07-30-032E > Sep > 08 > A/T 4T65E Fluid Leaking From A/T Vent > Page 6983
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Channel Plate, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Channel Plate: > 83-17-04 > Oct > 98
> Door Handles - On White Painted Vehicles Turning Yellow
Rear Door Exterior Handle: All Technical Service Bulletins Door Handles - On White Painted
Vehicles Turning Yellow
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 83-17-04
Date: October 1998
Subject: Door Handles on White Painted Vehicles Turning Yellow (Replace Lock Cylinder and Door
Handle)
Models: 1992-98 Buick Skylark 1995-99 Buick Riviera 1997-99 Buick Century, Regal 1992-99
Cadillac Eldorado, Seville 1994-99 Cadillac DeVille 1997-99 Chevrolet Corvette, Malibu 1991-96
Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1992-98 Oldsmobile Achieva 1992-99 Oldsmobile Eighty Eight, LSS,
Regency 1995-99 Oldsmobile Aurora 1997-99 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1998-99 Oldsmobile Intrigue
1999 Oldsmobile Alero 1992-99 Pontiac Bonneville, Grand Am 1997-99 Pontiac Grand Prix
1997-99 Chevrolet Venture 1997-99 Oldsmobile Silhouette 1997-99 Pontiac Trans Sport
Condition
Some customers may comment that the white paint around the door handle is turning yellow.
Cause
The grease that is used to lubricate the tumblers in the lock cylinder may migrate out of the cylinder
and stain the paint.
Correction
Replace the lock cylinder and door handle. New lock cylinder kits have been released. The new
kits have a black tube of grease in them which should be used on white vehicles. The old kits have
either a clear tube or white tube of grease that can be used on any vehicle EXCEPT white painted
vehicles.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 08-07-30-027 > Jun > 08 > A/T - No Movement
in Drive or 3rd Gear
Clutch: Customer Interest A/T - No Movement in Drive or 3rd Gear
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 08-07-30-027
Date: June 04, 2008
Subject: No Movement When Transmission is Shifted to Drive or Third - Normal Operation When
Shifted to Second, First or Reverse (Replace Forward Sprag Assembly)
Models: 1982 - 2005 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2006 - 2007 Buick Rainier 2006
Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT 2006 Chevrolet SSR 2006 - 2008 Chevrolet
Avalanche, Colorado, Express, Silverado Classic, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe, TrailBlazer 2006
GMC Yukon Denali, Yukon Denali XL 2006 - 2008 GMC Canyon, Envoy, Savana, Sierra Classic,
Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL 2006 Pontiac GTO 2006 - 2007 HUMMER H2 2006 - 2008 HUMMER H3
2006 - 2008 Saab 9-7X
with 4L60, 4L60E, 4L65E or 4L70E Automatic Transmission (RPOs MD8, M30, M32, M33 or M70)
Condition
Some customers may comment that the vehicle has no movement when the transmission is shifted
to DRIVE or THIRD position, but there is normal operation when it is shifted to SECOND, FIRST or
REVERSE position.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a damaged forward sprag assembly (642).
Correction
When inspecting the sprag, it is important to test the sprag for proper operation by holding the outer
race (644) with one hand while rotating the input sun gear (640) with the other hand. The sun gear
should rotate only in the counterclockwise direction with the input sun gear facing upward. If the
sprag rotates in both directions or will not rotate in either direction, the sprag elements should be
inspected by removing one of the sprag assembly retaining rings (643). Refer to SI Unit Repair
section for forward clutch sprag disassembly procedures.
If the sprag is found to be damaged, make repairs to the transmission as necessary. A new forward
roller clutch sprag assembly is now available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 08-07-30-027 > Jun > 08 > A/T - No Movement
in Drive or 3rd Gear > Page 7002
If clutch debris is found, it is also very important to inspect the Pressure Control (PC) solenoid
valve (377) fluid screens. Clean or replace the PC solenoid (377) as necessary. It is also important
to flush and flow check the transmission oil cooler using J45096. Refer to SI Automatic
Transmission Oil Cooler Flushing and Flow Test for the procedure.
The notches above each sprag must point up as shown when assembled into the outer race.
Bearing Assembly, Input Sun Gear
Snap Ring, Overrun Clutch Hub Retaining
Hub, Overrun Clutch
Wear Plate, Sprag Assembly
Retainer and Race Assembly, Sprag
Forward Sprag Assembly
Retainer Rings, Sprag Assembly
Outer Race, Forward Clutch
Washer, Thrust (Input Carrier to Race)
The following information applies when this sprag is used in 1982-86 transmissions.
The new design sprag can be used on models 1982 through 1986, by replacing the entire
assembly (637 - 644). Individual components are NOT
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 08-07-30-027 > Jun > 08 > A/T - No Movement
in Drive or 3rd Gear > Page 7003
interchangeable.
Important:
The wear plate (640) and input thrust washer (660) are not required with the new sprag. Use of the
thrust washer and wear plate with the new sprag assembly will cause a misbuild (correct end play
cannot be obtained).
Parts Information
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 677160 > Feb > 97 > A/T - Delay Engagement
into Drive After Cold Soak
Clutch: Customer Interest A/T - Delay Engagement into Drive After Cold Soak
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 67-71-60
Date: February, 1997
Subject: Delay Engagement into Drive After Cold Soak (Replace with Revised Forward Clutch
Housing Assembly Complete)
Models: 1995-97 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1995-97
Pontiac Sunfire with HYDRA-MATIC 4T40-E Transaxle (RPO MN4) and with 2.2L, 2.3L, 2.4L, 3.1L
Engine (VINs 4, D, T, M - RPOs LN2, LD2, LD9, L82)
Condition
Some owners of the above models may experience an initial delay when shifting into drive after the
vehicle has gone through an overnight cold soak usually at -12° C (10° F) ambient temperature or
colder. This condition will not repeat until the vehicle has gone through another overnight cold
soak. During the initial delay, an increase to engine RPM could cause the engagement into forward
gear to be harsh. (See Figure 1)
Cause
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 677160 > Feb > 97 > A/T - Delay Engagement
into Drive After Cold Soak > Page 7008
This condition may be due to fluid draining from the forward clutch housing assembly after the
vehicle's engine has been shut off. If this draining is followed by a cold soak as described under
"Condition," a delay may occur to refill the forward clutch housing assembly. This delay is due to
the resistance exhibited by the control orifice in the inner seal and sleeve assembly, and the
amount of oil volume required to refill the forward clutch housing assembly. (See Figure 2)
Correction
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 677160 > Feb > 97 > A/T - Delay Engagement
into Drive After Cold Soak > Page 7009
To repair this condition a revised forward clutch housing assembly complete, (including fiber and
steel plates) must be installed with a revised assembly. The revision to this assembly is a new
piston assembly (607) and inner seal and sleeve assembly (608). The new piston assembly has
additional rubber material molded to it. The inner seal and sleeve assembly has a molded plastic
insert. These revisions help reduce the volume of oil required to allow the forward clutch assembly
to apply. The forward clutch housing assembly must be replaced as a complete assembly. (See
Figure 3)
Service Information
Road test the vehicle following an overnight cold soak as described under "Condition." Verify the
vehicle has a delay during the initial shift into drive. Replace the complete forward clutch housing
assembly with the one supplied in service kit (P/N 24210576). Refer to the Unit Repair Section of
the Service Manual for the proper procedure.
A new service kit (gasket kit-trans with seals P/N 24210577) has been released which may be
useful in obtaining the additional gaskets and seals that may be needed in the servicing of a lower
mileage vehicle. For transaxles which require a complete reconditioning, the overhaul complete
service kit should be ordered. Refer to parts catalog for the complete overhaul part number.
Parts Information
Part Number Description
24210576 Forward Clutch Housing Complete
24210577 Gasket Kit-Trans with Seals
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 677160 > Feb > 97 > A/T - Delay Engagement
into Drive After Cold Soak > Page 7010
Labor Operation
Description Labor Time
K7221 Forward Clutch Use published
R & R or Replace labor operation time.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 08-07-30-027 > Jun > 08 > A/T No Movement in Drive or 3rd Gear
Clutch: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - No Movement in Drive or 3rd Gear
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 08-07-30-027
Date: June 04, 2008
Subject: No Movement When Transmission is Shifted to Drive or Third - Normal Operation When
Shifted to Second, First or Reverse (Replace Forward Sprag Assembly)
Models: 1982 - 2005 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2006 - 2007 Buick Rainier 2006
Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT 2006 Chevrolet SSR 2006 - 2008 Chevrolet
Avalanche, Colorado, Express, Silverado Classic, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe, TrailBlazer 2006
GMC Yukon Denali, Yukon Denali XL 2006 - 2008 GMC Canyon, Envoy, Savana, Sierra Classic,
Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL 2006 Pontiac GTO 2006 - 2007 HUMMER H2 2006 - 2008 HUMMER H3
2006 - 2008 Saab 9-7X
with 4L60, 4L60E, 4L65E or 4L70E Automatic Transmission (RPOs MD8, M30, M32, M33 or M70)
Condition
Some customers may comment that the vehicle has no movement when the transmission is shifted
to DRIVE or THIRD position, but there is normal operation when it is shifted to SECOND, FIRST or
REVERSE position.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a damaged forward sprag assembly (642).
Correction
When inspecting the sprag, it is important to test the sprag for proper operation by holding the outer
race (644) with one hand while rotating the input sun gear (640) with the other hand. The sun gear
should rotate only in the counterclockwise direction with the input sun gear facing upward. If the
sprag rotates in both directions or will not rotate in either direction, the sprag elements should be
inspected by removing one of the sprag assembly retaining rings (643). Refer to SI Unit Repair
section for forward clutch sprag disassembly procedures.
If the sprag is found to be damaged, make repairs to the transmission as necessary. A new forward
roller clutch sprag assembly is now available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 08-07-30-027 > Jun > 08 > A/T No Movement in Drive or 3rd Gear > Page 7016
If clutch debris is found, it is also very important to inspect the Pressure Control (PC) solenoid
valve (377) fluid screens. Clean or replace the PC solenoid (377) as necessary. It is also important
to flush and flow check the transmission oil cooler using J45096. Refer to SI Automatic
Transmission Oil Cooler Flushing and Flow Test for the procedure.
The notches above each sprag must point up as shown when assembled into the outer race.
Bearing Assembly, Input Sun Gear
Snap Ring, Overrun Clutch Hub Retaining
Hub, Overrun Clutch
Wear Plate, Sprag Assembly
Retainer and Race Assembly, Sprag
Forward Sprag Assembly
Retainer Rings, Sprag Assembly
Outer Race, Forward Clutch
Washer, Thrust (Input Carrier to Race)
The following information applies when this sprag is used in 1982-86 transmissions.
The new design sprag can be used on models 1982 through 1986, by replacing the entire
assembly (637 - 644). Individual components are NOT
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 08-07-30-027 > Jun > 08 > A/T No Movement in Drive or 3rd Gear > Page 7017
interchangeable.
Important:
The wear plate (640) and input thrust washer (660) are not required with the new sprag. Use of the
thrust washer and wear plate with the new sprag assembly will cause a misbuild (correct end play
cannot be obtained).
Parts Information
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 03-07-30-006 > Mar > 03 > A/T 4T40-E/4T45-T Engineering Changes
Clutch: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 4T40-E/4T45-T Engineering Changes
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-006
Date: March, 2003
INFORMATION
Subject: MN4 (4T40-E) MN5 (4T45-E) Engineering Changes
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Achieva
1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1998-2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1997-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40-E (MN4) or 4T45-E (MN5)
Automatic Transmission
Engineering changes have been incorporated into the MN4 and MN5 Reverse Clutch Housing and
related parts beginning with transmission assemblies produced on December 4, 2002, Julian Date
02 338. Refer to the following list for the affected parts and a description of how each changed:
The new Reverse Clutch Center Seal has a larger feed orifice.
^ The new Reverse Clutch Snap Ring is thicker and stiffer.
^ The new Reverse Housing Snap Ring Grove is wider to accommodate the thicker snap ring.
Elimination of the Backing Plate Selectives. The new clutch assembly is built with only the thickest
of the three previous selective backing plates. The new Reverse Wave Plate is stiffer.
Notice:
To maintain proper operating calibration of the transmission, determine which Reverse Clutch
Housing, Center Seat, Snap Ring, Backing Plate and Wave Plate to use according to the Julian
date on which the transmission was assembled. Failure to use these parts as instructed will cause
improper function, shift feel, and possible transmission distress. The affected service kits include
an instruction sheet that details the difference between the 1st and 2nd design center seals, and
how to determine which to use.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 677160 > Feb > 97 > A/T - Delay
Engagement into Drive After Cold Soak
Clutch: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Delay Engagement into Drive After Cold Soak
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 67-71-60
Date: February, 1997
Subject: Delay Engagement into Drive After Cold Soak (Replace with Revised Forward Clutch
Housing Assembly Complete)
Models: 1995-97 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1995-97
Pontiac Sunfire with HYDRA-MATIC 4T40-E Transaxle (RPO MN4) and with 2.2L, 2.3L, 2.4L, 3.1L
Engine (VINs 4, D, T, M - RPOs LN2, LD2, LD9, L82)
Condition
Some owners of the above models may experience an initial delay when shifting into drive after the
vehicle has gone through an overnight cold soak usually at -12° C (10° F) ambient temperature or
colder. This condition will not repeat until the vehicle has gone through another overnight cold
soak. During the initial delay, an increase to engine RPM could cause the engagement into forward
gear to be harsh. (See Figure 1)
Cause
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 677160 > Feb > 97 > A/T - Delay
Engagement into Drive After Cold Soak > Page 7026
This condition may be due to fluid draining from the forward clutch housing assembly after the
vehicle's engine has been shut off. If this draining is followed by a cold soak as described under
"Condition," a delay may occur to refill the forward clutch housing assembly. This delay is due to
the resistance exhibited by the control orifice in the inner seal and sleeve assembly, and the
amount of oil volume required to refill the forward clutch housing assembly. (See Figure 2)
Correction
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 677160 > Feb > 97 > A/T - Delay
Engagement into Drive After Cold Soak > Page 7027
To repair this condition a revised forward clutch housing assembly complete, (including fiber and
steel plates) must be installed with a revised assembly. The revision to this assembly is a new
piston assembly (607) and inner seal and sleeve assembly (608). The new piston assembly has
additional rubber material molded to it. The inner seal and sleeve assembly has a molded plastic
insert. These revisions help reduce the volume of oil required to allow the forward clutch assembly
to apply. The forward clutch housing assembly must be replaced as a complete assembly. (See
Figure 3)
Service Information
Road test the vehicle following an overnight cold soak as described under "Condition." Verify the
vehicle has a delay during the initial shift into drive. Replace the complete forward clutch housing
assembly with the one supplied in service kit (P/N 24210576). Refer to the Unit Repair Section of
the Service Manual for the proper procedure.
A new service kit (gasket kit-trans with seals P/N 24210577) has been released which may be
useful in obtaining the additional gaskets and seals that may be needed in the servicing of a lower
mileage vehicle. For transaxles which require a complete reconditioning, the overhaul complete
service kit should be ordered. Refer to parts catalog for the complete overhaul part number.
Parts Information
Part Number Description
24210576 Forward Clutch Housing Complete
24210577 Gasket Kit-Trans with Seals
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 677160 > Feb > 97 > A/T - Delay
Engagement into Drive After Cold Soak > Page 7028
Labor Operation
Description Labor Time
K7221 Forward Clutch Use published
R & R or Replace labor operation time.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Clutch: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03
> A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Clutch: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03
> A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7034
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Clutch: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03
> A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7035
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Clutch: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03
> A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7041
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Clutch: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03
> A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7042
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7043
Clutch: Testing and Inspection
COMPOSITION PLATES
Dry the plates and inspect the plates for the following conditions: Pitting
- Flaking
- Wear
- Glazing
- Cracking
- Charring
- Chips or metal particles embedded in the lining Replace a composition plate which shows any of
these conditions.
STEEL PLATES
IMPORTANT: If the clutch shows evidence of extreme heat or burning, replace the springs.
Wipe the plates dry and check the plates for heat discoloration. If the surfaces are smooth, even if
color smear is indicated, you can reuse the plate. If the plate is discolored with heat spots or if the
surface is scuffed, replace the plate.
CAUSES OF BURNED CLUTCH PLATES
The following conditions can result in a burned clutch plate: Incorrect usage of clutch plates
- Engine coolant in the transmission fluid
- A cracked clutch piston
- Damaged or missing seals
- Low line pressure
- Valve problems ^
The valve body face is not flat
^ Porosity between channels
^ The valve bushing clips are improperly installed
^ The checks balls are misplaced
- The Teflon seal rings are worn or damaged
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Differential, Automatic
Transaxle > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Revised Final Drive Pinion End Play Check
Differential: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Revised Final Drive Pinion End Play Check
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 77-71-79A
Date: February, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 7-Transmission/Transaxle - Transfer Case Unit Repair Manual (TURM) - 4T40-E
Final Drive Pinion End Play Check Specification
Models: 1997-98 Chevrolet Cavalier, Malibu 1997-98 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1997-98 Pontiac Sunfire
with HYDRA-MATIC 4T40-E Transaxle (RPO MN4) and 2.2L, 2.4L or 3.1L Engine (VINs 4, T, M RPOs LN2, LD9, L82)
This bulletin is being revised to correct 1998 service manual page number. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 77-71-79 (Section 7 - Transmission).
This bulletin contains the 1997 and 1998 TURM manual with revised art work for the final drive
pinion end play check procedure. Replace these pages in your 1997 and 1998 TURM manual:
1997 - revised page is: 7A2B-57
1998 - revised page is: 7-754
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Differential, Automatic
Transaxle > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Revised Final Drive Pinion End Play Check >
Page 7048
4T40-E AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE UNIT REPAIR
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Differential, Automatic
Transaxle > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Revised Final Drive Pinion End Play Check >
Page 7049
AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE 4T40-E
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information
Fluid - A/T: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-037E
Date: April 07, 2011
Subject: Release of DEXRON(R)-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)
Models:
2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2003-2008 HUMMER H2 2006-2008
HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saturn Relay 2005 and Prior Saturn L-Series 2005-2007 Saturn ION
2005-2008 Saturn VUE with 4T45-E 2005-2008 Saab 9-7X Except 2008 and Prior Chevrolet Aveo,
Equinox Except 2006 and Prior Chevrolet Epica Except 2007 and Prior Chevrolet Optra Except
2008 and Prior Pontiac Torrent, Vibe, Wave Except 2003-2005 Saturn ION with CVT or AF23 Only
Except 1991-2002 Saturn S-Series Except 2008 and Prior Saturn VUE with CVT, AF33 or 5AT
(MJ7/MJ8) Transmission Only Except 2008 Saturn Astra
Attention:
DEXRON(R)-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) is the only approved fluid for warranty repairs
for General Motors transmissions/transaxles requiring DEXRON(R)-III and/or prior DEXRON(R)
transmission fluids.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-037D (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS / TRANSFER CASES and POWER STEERING
The content of this bulletin does not apply to manual transmissions or transfer cases. Any vehicle
that previously required DEXRON(R)-III for a manual transmission or transfer case should now use
P/N 88861800. This fluid is labeled Manual Transmission and Transfer Case Fluid. Some manual
transmissions and transfer cases require a different fluid. Appropriate references should be
checked when servicing any of these components.
Power Steering Systems should now use P/N 9985010 labeled Power Steering Fluid.
Consult the Parts Catalog, Owner's Manual, or Service Information (SI) for fluid recommendations.
Some of our customers and/or General Motors dealerships/Saturn Retailers may have some
concerns with DEXRON(R)-VI and DEXRON(R)-III Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) and
transmission warranty claims. DEXRON(R)-VI is the only approved fluid for warranty repairs for
General Motors transmissions/transaxles requiring DEXRON(R)-III and/or prior DEXRON(R)
transmission fluids (except as noted above). Please remember that the clean oil reservoirs of the
J-45096 - Flushing and Flow Tester machine should be purged of DEXRON(R)-III and filled with
DEXRON(R)-VI for testing, flushing or filling General Motors transmissions/transaxles (except as
noted above).
DEXRON(R)-VI can be used in any proportion in past model vehicles equipped with an automatic
transmission/transaxle in place of DEXRON(R)-III (i.e. topping off the fluid in the event of a repair
or fluid change). DEXRON(R)-VI is also compatible with any former version of DEXRON(R) for use
in automatic transmissions/transaxles.
DEXRON(R)-VI ATF
General Motors Powertrain has upgraded to DEXRON(R)-VI ATF with the start of 2006 vehicle
production.
Current and prior automatic transmission models that had used DEXRON(R)-III must now only use
DEXRON(R)-VI.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information > Page 7054
All 2006 and future model transmissions that use DEXRON(R)-VI are to be serviced ONLY with
DEXRON(R)-VI fluid.
DEXRON(R)-VI is an improvement over DEXRON(R)-III in the following areas:
* These ATF change intervals remain the same as DEXRON(R)-III for the time being.
2006-2008 Transmission Fill and Cooler Flushing
Some new applications of the 6L80 six speed transmission will require the use of the J 45096 Flushing and Flow Tester to accomplish transmission fluid fill. The clean oil reservoir of the
machine should be purged of DEXRON(R)-III and filled with DEXRON(R)-VI.
Parts Information
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information > Page 7055
Fluid - A/T: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Water Or Coolant Contamination Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-07-30-035B
Date: November 01, 2010
Subject: Information on Water or Ethylene Glycol in Transmission Fluid
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks with Automatic Transmission
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 08-07-30-035A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Water or ethylene glycol in automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is harmful to internal transmission
components and will have a negative effect on reliability and durability of these parts. Water or
ethylene glycol in ATF will also change the friction of the clutches, frequently resulting in shudder
during engagement or gear changes, especially during torque converter clutch engagement.
Indications of water in the ATF may include:
- ATF blowing out of the transmission vent tube.
- ATF may appear cloudy or, in cases of extreme contamination, have the appearance of a
strawberry milkshake.
- Visible water in the oil pan.
- A milky white substance inside the pan area.
- Spacer plate gaskets that appear to be glued to the valve body face or case.
- Spacer plate gaskets that appear to be swollen or wrinkled in areas where they are not
compressed.
- Rust on internal transmission iron/steel components.
If water in the ATF has been found and the source of the water entry has not been identified, or if a
leaking in-radiator transmission oil cooler is suspected (with no evidence of cross-contamination in
the coolant recovery reservoir), a simple and quick test kit is available that detects the presence of
ethylene glycol in ATF. The "Gly-Tek" test kit, available from the Nelco Company, should be
obtained and the ATF tested to make an accurate decision on the need for radiator replacement.
This can help to prevent customer comebacks if the in-radiator transmission oil cooler is leaking
and reduce repair expenses by avoiding radiator replacement if the cooler is not leaking. These
test kits can be obtained from:
Nelco Company
Test kits can be ordered by phone or through the website listed above. Orders are shipped
standard delivery time but can be shipped on a next day delivery basis for an extra charge. One
test kit will complete 10 individual fluid sample tests. For vehicles repaired under warranty, the cost
of the complete test kit plus shipping charges should be divided by 10 and submitted on the
warranty claim as a net item.
The transmission should be repaired or replaced based on the normal cost comparison procedure.
Important If water or coolant is found in the transmission, the following components MUST be
replaced.
- Replace all of the rubber-type seals.
- Replace all of the composition-faced clutch plates and/or bands.
- Replace all of the nylon parts.
- Replace the torque converter.
- Thoroughly clean and rebuild the transmission, using new gaskets and oil filter.
Important The following steps must be completed when repairing or replacing.
Flush and flow check the transmission oil cooler using J 45096. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
02-07-30-052F- Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Flush and Flow Test Essential Tool J 45096
TransFlow.
- Thoroughly inspect the engine cooling system and hoses and clean/repair as necessary.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information > Page 7056
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information > Page 7057
Fluid - A/T: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Fluid Level Checking And Fill Procedure Revised
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 63-71-06
Date: March, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 7A - Revised 4T40E Fluid Level Checking and Fill Procedure
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier, Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1997 Pontiac Sunfire
This bulletin is being issued to revise the 4T40E fluid level checking and fill procedure in Section
7A of the Service Manual. The following procedure should be used for the above listed vehicles.
4T40E Fluid Level Checking and Fill Procedure
The fluid level screw is intended to be used for diagnosing a transaxle fluid leak or resetting the
transaxle fluid level after service that involves a loss of fluid.
Inspect
The fluid level should be checked when the transaxle is near 40° C (104° F). A vehicle at room
temperature can be brought to 40° C (104° F) by performing the following procedure.
Caution:
Removal of the fluid level screw when transaxle fluid is hot may cause injury. Use care to avoid
contact with the fluid and to avoid transaxle fluid splashing on to the exhaust pipe.
The engine must be running when the transaxle fluid level screw is removed, or excessive fluid loss
will occur. Transaxle fluid may be hot. Since the actual fluid level is unknown, stand clear when
removing the fluid level screw. Have a container ready to capture any lost fluid. DO NOT TURN
THE ENGINE OFF WITH THE FLUID LEVEL SCREW REMOVED AS YOU CAN BE INJURED BY
HOT TRANSAXLE FLUID BEING EXPELLED OUT OF THE FLUID CHECK HOLE.
1. Let vehicle idle for three to five minutes with accessories off.
2. Apply brake.
3. Move shift lever through all gear ranges, pausing three seconds in each range.
4. Place shift lever in Park.
Important:
Vehicle must be kept level on the hoist.
5. Raise vehicle on hoist. Refer to "General Information".
6. Place oil container under fluid level screw.
7. Remove the fluid level screw with engine running at idle.
8. Fluid level should be at the bottom of fluid check hole. Because the transaxle operates correctly
over a range of fluid levels, fluid may or may not drain out of the fluid check hole when the fluid
level screw is removed. If fluid drains through the fluid check hole, this transaxle may have been
overfilled. When fluid stops draining, the fluid level is correct and the fluid level screw may be
installed. If fluid does not drain through the fluid check hole, the transaxle fluid level may be low.
Proceed to Adding Transaxle Fluid.
9. Install fluid level screw.
Tighten
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information > Page 7058
Tighten 12 N.m (106 lb in.).
10. Lower vehicle.
11. Shut off engine.
Adding Transaxle Fluid
With the engine running, add fluid (DEXRON(R)-III) at the vent cap location in half liter (1 pint)
increments until fluid drains through the fluid check hole. Allow the fluid to finish draining through
the fluid check hole.
1. Install fluid level screw.
Tighten
Tighten 12 N.m (106 lb in.).
2. Lower vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Specifications > Capacity Specifications
Fluid - A/T: Capacity Specifications
AUTOMATIC 4T40-E Bottom Pan Removal ........................................................................................
......................................................................................... 7.0 liters (7.4 qts) Complete Overhaul .......
..............................................................................................................................................................
........... 10.0 liters (10.6 qts)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Specifications > Capacity Specifications > Page 7061
Fluid - A/T: Fluid Type Specifications
DEXRON-III Automatic Transmission Fluid (or equivalent).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Transaxle Oil Information
Fluid - A/T: Testing and Inspection Transaxle Oil Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Transaxle Oil Information > Page 7064
Checking oil level, color and condition at regular intervals will provide early diagnosis information
about the transaxle. This information may then be used to correct a condition that, if not detected
early, could result in major transaxle repairs.
When adding or changing oil, use only DEXRON(R) III. Refer to Maintenance for maintenance
information and servicing intervals.
IMPORTANT: When new, automatic transmission oil is red in color. The red dye is to distinguish it
from engine oil or anti-freeze. The red dye is not an indicator of oil quality and is not permanent. As
the vehicle is driven the transmission oil will begin to look darker in color. The color may eventually
appear light brown. A dark brown color with a burnt odor may indicate oil deterioration and signal a
need for a transaxle oil change.
NOTICE: Do not overfill. Overfilling will cause foaming, loss of oil and possible damage to the
transaxle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Transaxle Oil Information > Page 7065
Fluid - A/T: Testing and Inspection Transaxle Oil Level Checking Procedure
4T40E Oil Level Checking and Fill Procedure
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Transaxle Oil Information > Page 7066
NOTE: The fluid level screw is intended to be used for diagnosing a transaxle fluid leak or resetting
the transaxle fluid level after service that involves a loss of fluid.
Inspect The fluid level should be checked when the transaxle is near room temperature or at 40°C
(104° F).
CAUTION: Removal of the fluid level screw when the transaxle fluid is hot may cause injury. Use
care to avoid contact of transaxle fluid to exhaust pipe.
1. Engine OFF. 2. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. 3. Place oil container under check plug.
4. Remove oil check plug.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Transaxle Oil Information > Page 7067
5. Oil level should be at bottom of oil check hole. Because the transaxle operates correctly over a
range of fluid levels, fluid may or may not drain out
of the screw hole when the screw is removed.
Adding Transaxle Oil
Important: If fluid drains through the screw hole the transaxle may have been overfilled. When fluid
stops draining the fluid level is correct and check plug may be installed. If fluid does not drain
through the screw hole the transaxle fluid level may have been low. Add fluid at the vent cap
location in half liter (1 pint) increments until oil level is at the bottom of oil check hole.
1. Install oil check plug.
Tighten 14 Nm (124 inch lbs.).
2. Lower vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Transaxle Oil Information > Page 7068
Fluid - A/T: Testing and Inspection Fluid Level Service Procedure
You will use the fluid level screw (2) for diagnosing a transmission fluid leak or for resetting the
transmission fluid level after service that involves a loss of fluid.
Fluid Level Diagnosis Procedure Check the fluid level when the transmission is above 40° C (104°
F). This temperature can be reached by performing the following procedure:
1. Park the vehicle on a hoist, inspection pit, or similar raised level surface. The vehicle must be
level to obtain a correct fluid level measurement. 2. Place a fluid container below the fluid level
screw (2). 3. Start the engine and allow the engine to idle for approximately 5 minutes, or, if
possible, drive the vehicle for a few miles to warm the transmission
fluid.
4. Depress the brake pedal and move the shift lever through the gear ranges, pausing a few
seconds in each range. Return the shift lever to the Park
position.
5. Remove the fluid level screw (2). Because the transmission operates correctly over a range of
fluid levels, fluid may or may not drain out of the
screw hole when the screw is removed.
CAUTION: Do not remove the fluid level screw if the transmission fluid is hot this may cause injury
if the fluid drains from the screw hole.
- If fluid drains through the screw hole, the transmission may have been overfilled. When the fluid
stops draining, the fluid level is correct. Install the fluid level screw (2) and torque to the proper
specification (12 Nm).
- If fluid does not drain through the screw hole (2), the transmission fluid level may be low. Add fluid
through the fill cap (1) hole in 0.5-liter increments, up to 1.5 liters maximum, until fluid drains
through the screw hole. If fluid drains through the screw hole, the fluid level was in the correct
operating range. Allow the fluid to finish draining through the screw hole and install the fluid level
screw. Torque the fluid level screw to the proper specification (12 Nm).
- If fluid does not drain through the screw hold after adding a total of 1.5 liters, then the
transmission was either underfilled or the transmission is leaking fluid. Inspect the transmission for
fluid leaks. Fix any leaks before setting the transmission fluid level.
6. When the fluid level checking procedure is completed, wipe any fluid from the transmission case
with a rag or shop towel. also, check, that the
fluid fill cap (1) and the vent tube are properly installed.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Transaxle Oil Information > Page 7069
Fluid - A/T: Testing and Inspection Fluid Level Set After Service
After service, set the fluid level according to the following procedure.
1. Add fluid through the fill cap hole prior to adjusting the fluid level. The amount of fluid to add
should be based on the table at the end of this
procedure.
2. Follow steps 1-4 of the FLUID LEVEL DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE. 3. Add additional fluid
through the fill cap (1) hole in 0.5-liter (1-pint) increments until the fluid comes out through the
screw hole. 4. Allow the fluid to finish draining out through the screw hole, then install the fluid level
screw (2) and torque the screw to the proper specification
(12 Nm).
5. When the fluid level setting procedure is completed, wipe any fluid from the transmission case
with a rag or shop towel. Also, check that the fluid
fill cap (1) and the vent tube are properly installed.
Bottom Pan Removal (On Vehicle)
............................................................................................................................................. 7 Liters
(7.4 Quarts) New Converter ................................................................................................................
.......................................................... 2.5 Liters (2.6 Quarts) Complete Overhaul ...............................
................................................................................................................................... 10 Liters (10.6
Quarts)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 7070
Fluid - A/T: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle and support the vehicle. 2. Place drain pan under transaxle oil pan. 3. Oil pan bolts
from the front and sides only. 4. Loosen rear oil pan bolts approximately 4 turns.
NOTICE: Do not damage the transaxle case or oil pan sealing surfaces.
5. Lightly tap oil pan with rubber mallet or pry to allow oil to drain.
Inspect
- Inspect oil color.
- Refer to CHECKING OIL COLOR, LEVEL AND CONDITION.
6. Remaining oil pan bolts, oil pan and gasket. 7. Oil filter and O-ring.
Inspect
- O-ring may be stuck in the case.
Clean
- Transaxle case and oil pan gasket surfaces with solvent and air dry. All traces of old gasket
material must be removed.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Coat seal with a small amount of TRANSJEL(R) J 36850 or equivalent. 2. New seal into case. 3.
New filter into case. 4. Oil pan and new gasket. 5. Oil pan bolts, refer to FASTENER TIGHTENING
SPECIFICATIONS.
Inspect
- Refer to VALVE BODY COVER AND OIL PAN BOLTS for inspection of bolts and washers.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 7071
- Use adhesive/sealant compound GM P/N 12345382 or equivalent to reduce the potential for oil
leaks on indicated bolt.
6. Lower vehicle. 7. Fill transaxle to proper level with DEXRON III oil.
Adjust
- Cold oil level reading for initial fill. Do not overfill.
8. Follow the TRANSAXLE OIL LEVEL CHECKING PROCEDURE.
Inspect
- Check oil pan gasket for leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Filter - A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Oil Filter and Seal
Fluid Filter - A/T: Service and Repair Oil Filter and Seal
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle and support the vehicle. 2. Drain oil. 3. Oil pan attaching bolts, oil pan and gasket.
4. Oil filter assembly. 5. Filter neck seal from transaxle case using a small screwdriver and being
careful not to score case during removal. The filter seal is not reusable and
should be discarded.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. New oil filter and new oil filter seal. Tap gently and evenly on the seal to prevent damage to the
case bore or seal. 2. Oil pan gasket; may be reused, unless sealing ribs are damaged. If damaged,
use new gasket. 3. Oil pan and attaching bolts, refer to TRANSAXLE OIL PAN AND GASKET.
Tighten Pan bolts to 12 Nm (9 ft. lbs.).
4. Lower vehicle. 5. Fill transaxle to proper level with DEXRON(R) III oil.
Inspect
- Oil pan gasket for leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Filter - A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Oil Filter and Seal > Page 7076
Fluid Filter - A/T: Service and Repair Changing Oil and Filter
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle and support the vehicle. 2. Place drain pan under transaxle oil pan. 3. Oil pan bolts
from the front and sides only. 4. Loosen rear oil pan bolts approximately 4 turns.
NOTICE: Do not damage the transaxle case or oil pan sealing surfaces.
5. Lightly tap oil pan with rubber mallet or pry to allow oil to drain.
Inspect
- Inspect oil color.
- Refer to CHECKING OIL COLOR, LEVEL AND CONDITION.
6. Remaining oil pan bolts, oil pan and gasket. 7. Oil filter and O-ring.
Inspect
- O-ring may be stuck in the case.
Clean
- Transaxle case and oil pan gasket surfaces with solvent and air dry. All traces of old gasket
material must be removed.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Coat seal with a small amount of TRANSJEL(R) J 36850 or equivalent. 2. New seal into case. 3.
New filter into case. 4. Oil pan and new gasket. 5. Oil pan bolts, refer to FASTENER TIGHTENING
SPECIFICATIONS.
Inspect
- Refer to VALVE BODY COVER AND OIL PAN BOLTS for inspection of bolts and washers.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Filter - A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Oil Filter and Seal > Page 7077
- Use adhesive/sealant compound GM P/N 12345382 or equivalent to reduce the potential for oil
leaks on indicated bolt.
6. Lower vehicle. 7. Fill transaxle to proper level with DEXRON III oil.
Adjust
- Cold oil level reading for initial fill. Do not overfill.
8. Follow the TRANSAXLE OIL LEVEL CHECKING PROCEDURE.
Inspect
- Check oil pan gasket for leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Line/Hose, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Revised Converter Check Valve/Cooler Line Fitting
Fluid Line/Hose: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Revised Converter Check Valve/Cooler Line
Fitting
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-017B
Date: November 25, 2008
Subject: Information on 4T65-E MN7, M15, M76, MN3 Automatic Transmission Case, Cooler
Fitting and Torque Converter Drain Back Check Ball Change
Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
with one of the HYDRA-MATIC(R) Automatic Transmissions shown above.
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the Parts Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-017A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Effective with Julian date 4019 (January 19, 2004), the 4T65E transaxle cases and cooler fittings
have changed and are not interchangeable with past models. The technician may find that when
replacing the inlet or outlet transmission cooler lines, the new lines cannot be connected to the
transmission.
A change to the transmission cooler line fittings was implemented in production on February 1,
2004. The cooler line fittings were changed to a design with a longer lead in pilot (1). The cooler
line fittings with the longer lead in pilot will not fit on models built before February 1, 2004.
The longer lead in pilot fittings (1) (9/16-18 UNF) have replaced the shorter lead in pilot fittings (2)
(3/8-18 NPSF w/check ball & 1/4-18 NPSF).
If the transmission cooler lines will not connect, then replace them with the following cooler line
fittings as appropriate with the older, shorter lead in pilot design:
^ For vehicles built prior to February 1, 2004, use Transmission Fluid Cooler Inlet Hose, P/N
20793004.
^ For vehicles built after February 1, 2004, use Transmission Fluid Cooler Inlet Hose, second
design P/N 15264588.
^ For vehicles built prior to February 1, 2004, use Transmission Fluid Cooler Outlet Hose, P/N
20793005.
^ For vehicles built after February 1, 2004, use Transmission Fluid Cooler Outlet Hose, second
design P/N 15264589.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Line/Hose, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Revised Converter Check Valve/Cooler Line Fitting > Page
7082
The torque specification has changed for the fittings to case. The torque has changed from 38 Nm
(28 lb ft) to 32 Nm (23 lb ft).
Tighten
Tighten the new cooler fittings to 32 Nm (23 lb ft).
The converter drain back check ball (420C) has been removed from the cooler line fitting and is
now located in the channel plate.
If you get a concern of no movement in the morning or after sitting for several hours, the cooler
check ball should be inspected.
The best way to determine where the check ball is located is to look at the cooler line fittings. The
old fittings are different sizes (3/8-18 NPSF & 1/4-18 NPSF) and would contain the cooler check
ball. The new fittings are the same size as each other (9/16-18 UNF) and do not have a cooler
check ball.
Parts Information
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Line/Hose, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Revised Converter Check Valve/Cooler Line Fitting > Page
7083
Fluid Line/Hose: Technical Service Bulletins Transaxle Cooler Line - Seal Installation Procedure
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 87-71-67
Date: June, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: Transaxle Cooler Line Seal Installation Procedure
Models: 1995-98 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-98 Chevrolet Malibu 1997-98 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999
Oldsmobile Alero 1995-98 Pontiac Sunfire 1999 Pontiac Grand Am with HYDRA-MATIC 4T40-E
Transaxle (RPO MN4) or 4T45-E Transaxle RPO MN5) and 2.2L, 2.4L, 3.1 L, 3.4L Engine VINs 4,
T, M, E - RPOs LN2, LD91 L821 LA1)
This bulletin contains information regarding the installation of cooler line seals into the case of
either a 4T40-E or 4T45-E transaxle.
Seal Installation Procedure (Figure 1)
To prevent automatic transmission fluid from leaking from the cooler line seals (49) after installing
new seals, perform the following procedure.
Important:
Only GM Goodwrench DEXRON(R) III automatic transmission fluid should be used as part of
warranty repair of GM Powertrain automatic transmissions.
Notice:
Failure to lubricate the cooler line seals (49) with automatic transmission fluid DEXRON(R) III,
before installing the cooler line pipes into the seals,
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Line/Hose, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Revised Converter Check Valve/Cooler Line Fitting > Page
7084
may cause damage to the seals.
1. Lubricate the inside surface of both new cooler line seals (49) with automatic transmission fluid
DEXRON(R) III.
2. Place a new cooler line seal (49) into the case bore.
3. Install the cooler line seal installer tool J 41239-1 on the transmission case (51) at the cooler line
bracket bolt hole.
4. Press the new cooler line seal (49) in by tightening the seal pressing bolt on the cooler line seal
installer tool J 41239-1 until the seal bottoms out in the case bore.
5. Repeat steps 2 through 4 for the second cooler line seal (49).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Line/Hose, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Transaxle Oil Cooler Lines
Fluid Line/Hose: Service and Repair Transaxle Oil Cooler Lines
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle and support the vehicle. 2. Transaxle oil cooler lines from radiator. 3. Transaxle oil
cooler line bracket bolt from transaxle. 4. Transaxle oil cooler lines from vehicle.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Transaxle oil cooler lines to transaxle.
Tighten Transaxle cooler line bracket bolt to 8 Nm (71 inch lbs.).
2. Transaxle oil cooler lines to radiator.
Tighten Pipe fittings to 20 to 40 Nm (15 to 30 ft. lbs.).
3. Lower vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Line/Hose, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Transaxle Oil Cooler Lines > Page 7087
Fluid Line/Hose: Service and Repair Transaxle Oil Cooler Line Seals
^ Tools Required: J 41239-1 Cooler Pipe Seal Installer
- J 41239-2 Cooler Pipe Seal Remover
- J 6125B Slide Hammer
- J 6471 Slide Hammer Adapter
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle and support the vehicle. 2. Transaxle oil cooler lines from transaxle, (1 bolt). 3.
Seal removal tool J 41239-2 into cooler line seal. 4. Slide Hammer J 6125b with Adapter J 6471 to
the seal removal tool. 5. Using slide hammer impact, remove the cooler line seals.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Tool J 41239-1 on transaxle case using cooler line bracket bolt. 2. New seal in the case bore. 3.
Press new seals in by tightening the cooler line bracket bolt until seal bottoms out in the case bore.
4. Cooler lines into seals and transaxle case.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Line/Hose, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Transaxle Oil Cooler Lines > Page 7088
Tighten Transaxle cooler line bracket bolt to 8 Nm (71 inch lbs.).
5. Lower vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Line/Hose, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Transaxle Oil Cooler Lines > Page 7089
Fluid Line/Hose: Service and Repair Oil Feed Pipes and Gaskets
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Raise vehicle on hoist. 3. Remove lower oil pan. 4. Remove filter
assembly. 5. Remove 4 bolts attaching oil feed pipe assembly to transaxle. 6. Remove oil feed pipe
assembly with the 8 seals.
Inspect
- Inspect the oil feed pipes for plugged passages, bent pipes or cracks.
- Inspect the oil feed pipe seal rings. Verify the proper location of seal rings. Replace these seal
rings only if they are cut, swelled or damaged.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the oil feed pipe assembly onto the transaxle. 2. Install, hand start and tighten the four oil
feed pipe bolts.
Tighten 4 bolts to 12 Nm (9 ft. lbs.).
3. Install oil filter assembly. 4. Install lower oil pan and gasket assembly. Refer to TRANSAXLE OIL
PAN AND GASKET. 5. Refill transaxle with fluid to proper level. Refer to 4T40E OIL LEVEL
CHECKING AND FILL PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pan, A/T >
Component Information > Specifications
Fluid Pan: Specifications
Pan bolts ..............................................................................................................................................
............................................ 14 Nm (124 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pan, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Transaxle Oil Pan and Gasket
Fluid Pan: Service and Repair Transaxle Oil Pan and Gasket
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle and support the vehicle. 2. Loosen pan bolts and drain oil. 3. Pan attaching bolts.
4. Pan and gasket.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Pan and gasket. Oil pan gasket may be reused, unless sealing ribs are damaged. If damaged,
use new gasket. 2. New pan attaching bolts.
Tighten Pan bolts to 14 Nm (124 inch lbs.).
3. Lower vehicle. 4. Refill transaxle to proper level with DEXRON(R) III oil.
Inspect
- Oil pan gasket for leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pan, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Transaxle Oil Pan and Gasket > Page 7095
Fluid Pan: Service and Repair Case Side Cover and Oil Pan Bolts
The self tapping bolts should be replaced with the appropriate standard service fasteners if the
valve body cover of oil pan bolts are removed. Refer to TRANSFER CASE for further details.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pick-Up, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Fluid Pick-Up: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Raise and support vehicle 3. Bottom pan and filter. Refer to
CHANGING OIL AND FILTER. 4. Oil level control valve. Pull valve straight out do not pry on valve
or transaxle.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Oil level control valve into transaxle. Push straight on center of valve. 2. Oil filter and bottom pan.
Refer to CHANGING OIL AND FILTER. 3. Lower vehicle. 4. Negative battery cable.
Adjust
- Oil level, refer to TRANSAXLE OIL LEVEL CHECKING PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pressure
Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove negative battery cable. 2. Remove transaxle case side cover. 3. Remove pressure
switch assembly (6 bolts).
IMPORTANT: Inspect the O-rings for the pressure switch assembly for any damage.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the pressure switch assembly making sure all O-rings are in place. 2. Torque the 6 bolts
holding the pressure switch assembly to 12 Nm (9 ft. lbs.). 3. Install the transaxle case side cover.
4. Connect the negative battery cable. 5. Refill transaxle with fluid to proper level. Refer to 4T40E
OIL LEVEL CHECKING AND FILL PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pump, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - 4L65E, 4L60E, 4L60, 200-4R Oil Pump Spring
Fluid Pump: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 4L65E, 4L60E, 4L60, 200-4R Oil Pump Spring
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-006
Date: February 11, 2004
INFORMATION
Subject: 4L65-E, 4L60-E, 4L60 and 200-4R Automatic Transmission Oil Pump Spring First and
Second Design Identification
Models: 2004 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2003-2004 HUMMER H2
with 4L65-E, 4L60-E, 4L60 or 200-4R Automatic Transmission
The purpose of this bulletin is to identify the oil pump spring usage for the two different pump
designs. Manufacturing of the first design oil pump springs ended December 15, 2003.
Manufacturing of the second design oil pump spring began December 16, 2003
The first design oil pump springs (206) and (207) DO NOT have any identification markings. The
first design springs (206) and (207) use an inner and outer spring, two springs.
The second design oil pump spring (245) is identified with tapered ends on the spring (245) as
shown above. The second design spring (245) is a single spring.
When servicing either (first design or second design) oil pump body, use the new single oil pump
spring (245) with tapered ends.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pump, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - 4L65E, 4L60E, 4L60, 200-4R Oil Pump Spring > Page 7106
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams
Transaxle Indicator Lamp
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Output Shaft, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise
Output Shaft: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-042F
Date: February 05, 2010
Subject: Information on 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise
Models:
2010 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3
2005-2009 Saab 9-7X with 4L60-E, 4L65-E or 4L70-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30, M32,
M70)
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2010 model year and 4L70E transmission.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-042E (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Important For 2005 model year fullsize utilities and pickups, refer to Corporate Bulletin
05-07-30-012.
Some vehicles may exhibit a clunk noise that can be heard on a 2-3 upshift or a 3-2 downshift.
During a 2-3 upshift, the 2-4 band is released and the 3-4 clutch is applied. The timing of this shift
can cause a momentary torque reversal of the output shaft that results in a clunk noise. This same
torque reversal can also occur on a 3-2 downshift when the 3-4 clutch is released and the 2-4 band
applied. This condition may be worse on a 4-wheel drive vehicle due to the additional tolerances in
the transfer case.
This is a normal condition. No repairs should be attempted.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Output Shaft, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Stub Axle Shaft and Right Hand Axle Oil Seal
Output Shaft: Service and Repair Stub Axle Shaft and Right Hand Axle Oil Seal
^ Tools Required: -
J 38868 Stub Shaft Sleeve Remover
- J 6125 Slide Hammer
- J 23129 Seal Removal Tool
- J 41102 Axle Seal Installer
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle and support the vehicle. 2. Drive axle assembly. Refer to DRIVE AXLE. 3. Snap
ring from stub axle shaft Discard snap ring - it is not reusable. 4. Pull lightly on the shaft and rotate
it until the output shaft snap ring at the differential seats in the taper on the differential side gear. 5.
Stub shaft from transaxle using slide hammer J 6125 and shaft removal tool J 38868. 6. Right hand
axle seal from transaxle using seal removal tool J 23129 and slide hammer J 6125 or a screw
driver.
- Do not damage seal bore or sleeve assembly or fluid leaks may result.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. New seal using J 41102. Lubricate seal lip with a light wipe of transmission oil. 2. Two new snap
rings on the stub shaft.
IMPORTANT: Carefully guide axle shaft past lip seal. Do not allow shaft splines to contact any
portion of the seal lip surface, otherwise damage to the seal will occur.
3. Stub shaft into transaxle using a mallet.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Output Shaft, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Stub Axle Shaft and Right Hand Axle Oil Seal > Page 7117
4. Drive Axle. 5. Lower vehicle.
Inspect
- For leaks.
- Oil level, refer to TRANSAXLE OIL LEVEL CHECKING PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Output Shaft, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Stub Axle Shaft and Right Hand Axle Oil Seal > Page 7118
Output Shaft: Service and Repair Stub Axle Shaft Sleeve
^ Tools Required: J 38868 Stub Shaft Sleeve Remover
- J 6125 Slide Hammer
- J 41228 Stub Shaft Sleeve Installer
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle and support the vehicle. 2. Drive axle assembly. Refer to Drive Axle. 3. Stub shaft
assembly from transaxle, refer to AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE. 4. Sleeve from stub shaft using
puller J 38868.
Inspect
- Inspect the sleeve for excessive wear, scratches or nicks that may cause a leak or damage to the
seal portion. If sleeve appears damaged, it must be replaced.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Output Shaft, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Stub Axle Shaft and Right Hand Axle Oil Seal > Page 7119
1. New sleeve on stub shaft using J 4128. Sleeve installation tool must be installed on shaft such
that the collar is located in the snap ring groove. 2. Two new snap rings on the stub shaft. 3. Stub
shaft into transaxle assembly. 4. Drive axle assembly, refer to Drive Axle. 5. Lower vehicle.
Inspect
- For leaks.
- Oil level.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Output Shaft, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Stub Axle Shaft and Right Hand Axle Oil Seal > Page 7120
Output Shaft: Service and Repair Output Axle Shaft Sleeve
^ Tools Required: J 41227 Stub Shaft Sleeve Remover
- J 41228 Stub Shaft Sleeve Installer
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle and support the vehicle. 2. Drive axle assembly. 3. Transaxle side cover
assembly, refer to AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE. 4. Sleeve from output shaft using puller J 41227.
Inspect
- Inspect the sleeve for excessive wear, scratches or nicks that may cause a leak or damage to the
seal portion. If sleeve appears damaged, it must be replaced.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. New sleeve on output shaft using J 41228. Sleeve installation tool must be installed on shaft
such that the collar is located in the snap ring groove. 2. Two new snap rings on the output shaft 3.
Install seal protector into side cover to prevent the seal from rolling. 4. Transaxle side cover
assembly. 5. Drive axle assembly. 6. Lower vehicle.
Inspect
- For leaks.
- Oil level, refer to TRANSAXLE OIL LEVEL CHECKING PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Parking Pawl, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Grinding/Growling Noise in Park on Incline
Parking Pawl: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Grinding/Growling Noise in Park on Incline
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 99-07-30-030F
Date: May 01, 2008
Subject: Grinding and/or Growling Noise in Park on Incline
Models: 2009 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Including Saturn)
with Hydra-Matic Front Wheel Drive (FWD) Automatic Transmissions
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
99-07-30-030E (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Service Information
Owners of some vehicles equipped with Hydra-Matic front wheel drive transaxles may comment on
a grinding and/or growling noise that is noticeable when standing in PARK on a hill or slope with
the engine running and the parking brake not applied. Under these conditions, the weight of the
vehicle puts a load on the parking pawl which can create a "ground-out" path through the drive
axles, front struts, springs and spring towers. Normal engine noise can be transmitted to the
passenger compartment through the "ground-out" path.
Owners concerned about this condition should be advised to apply the parking brake prior to
shifting into PARK. This is the recommended procedure described in the Owners Manual. Applying
the parking brake first will put the load of the vehicle on the rear brakes rather than on the parking
pawl.
Refer the owner to the appropriate Owner Manual for additional details and instructions.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Pressure Regulating
Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Pressure Regulating
Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Pressure Regulating
Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Pressure Regulating
Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7133
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Pressure Regulating
Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Pressure Regulating
Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7134
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Pressure Regulating
Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Pressure
Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Pressure Regulating
Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Pressure
Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7140
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Pressure Regulating
Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Pressure
Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7141
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Pressure Regulating
Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7142
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove negative battery cable. 2. Remove transaxle case side cover. 3. Remove retainer clip
from the specified solenoid using a small screwdriver. 4. A shift solenoid has one O-ring. The
pressure control solenoid and TCC solenoid have 2 O-rings. Remove the solenoid and O-ring or
O-rings from
transaxle.
IMPORTANT: Inspect the O-rings and solenoids for any damage.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the solenoid and O-ring or O-rings. 2. Install the retainer clip holding the solenoid in the
valve body. 3. Install the transaxle case side cover. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Pressure Regulating
Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7143
5. Refill transaxle with fluid to proper level. Refer to 4T40E OIL LEVEL CHECKING AND FILL
PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Seals and Gaskets, A/T
> System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Seals and Gaskets: > 01-07-30-032E > Sep >
08 > A/T - 4T65E Fluid Leaking From A/T Vent
Seals and Gaskets: Customer Interest A/T - 4T65E Fluid Leaking From A/T Vent
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-032E
Date: September 29, 2008
Subject: Transmission Oil Leaking From Transmission Vent (Replace Transmission Case Cover
(Channel Plate) Gasket)
Models: 1997-2009 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)
with Hydra-Matic 4T65-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs MN3, MN7, M15, M76)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2008 and 2009 model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 01-07-30-032D (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a transmission oil leak.
Cause
This condition may be caused by an improperly torqued channel plate gasket.
Correction
To correct this condition, replace the case cover (channel plate) gaskets (429 and 430). Refer to
Unit Repair publication in SI of the appropriate vehicle being serviced.
Visual inspection of the upper gasket (1) will reveal damage at the referenced area.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Seals and Gaskets, A/T
> System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Seals and Gaskets: > 01-07-30-032E > Sep >
08 > A/T - 4T65E Fluid Leaking From A/T Vent > Page 7152
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Seals and Gaskets, A/T
> System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Seals and Gaskets: >
01-07-30-032E > Sep > 08 > A/T - 4T65E Fluid Leaking From A/T Vent
Seals and Gaskets: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 4T65E Fluid Leaking From A/T Vent
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-032E
Date: September 29, 2008
Subject: Transmission Oil Leaking From Transmission Vent (Replace Transmission Case Cover
(Channel Plate) Gasket)
Models: 1997-2009 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)
with Hydra-Matic 4T65-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs MN3, MN7, M15, M76)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2008 and 2009 model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 01-07-30-032D (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a transmission oil leak.
Cause
This condition may be caused by an improperly torqued channel plate gasket.
Correction
To correct this condition, replace the case cover (channel plate) gaskets (429 and 430). Refer to
Unit Repair publication in SI of the appropriate vehicle being serviced.
Visual inspection of the upper gasket (1) will reveal damage at the referenced area.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Seals and Gaskets, A/T
> System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Seals and Gaskets: >
01-07-30-032E > Sep > 08 > A/T - 4T65E Fluid Leaking From A/T Vent > Page 7158
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Seals and Gaskets, A/T
> System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Seals and Gaskets: > Page 7159
Seals and Gaskets: By Symptom
Technical Service Bulletin # 01-07-30-032E Date: 080929
A/T - 4T65E Fluid Leaking From A/T Vent
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-032E
Date: September 29, 2008
Subject: Transmission Oil Leaking From Transmission Vent (Replace Transmission Case Cover
(Channel Plate) Gasket)
Models: 1997-2009 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)
with Hydra-Matic 4T65-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs MN3, MN7, M15, M76)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2008 and 2009 model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 01-07-30-032D (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a transmission oil leak.
Cause
This condition may be caused by an improperly torqued channel plate gasket.
Correction
To correct this condition, replace the case cover (channel plate) gaskets (429 and 430). Refer to
Unit Repair publication in SI of the appropriate vehicle being serviced.
Visual inspection of the upper gasket (1) will reveal damage at the referenced area.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Seals and Gaskets, A/T
> System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Seals and Gaskets: > Page 7160
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Technical Service Bulletin # 01-07-30-032E Date: 080929
A/T - 4T65E Fluid Leaking From A/T Vent
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-032E
Date: September 29, 2008
Subject: Transmission Oil Leaking From Transmission Vent (Replace Transmission Case Cover
(Channel Plate) Gasket)
Models: 1997-2009 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)
with Hydra-Matic 4T65-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs MN3, MN7, M15, M76)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2008 and 2009 model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 01-07-30-032D (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a transmission oil leak.
Cause
This condition may be caused by an improperly torqued channel plate gasket.
Correction
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Seals and Gaskets, A/T
> System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Seals and Gaskets: > Page 7161
To correct this condition, replace the case cover (channel plate) gaskets (429 and 430). Refer to
Unit Repair publication in SI of the appropriate vehicle being serviced.
Visual inspection of the upper gasket (1) will reveal damage at the referenced area.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Seals and Gaskets, A/T
> System Information > Service and Repair > Transaxle Side Seals
Seals and Gaskets: Service and Repair Transaxle Side Seals
^ Tools Required: -
J 38868 Stub Shaft Sleeve Remover
- J 6125 Slide Hammer
- J 23129 Seal Removal Tool
- J 41102 Axle Seal Installer
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle and support the vehicle. 2. Drive axle assembly. Refer to DRIVE AXLE. 3. Snap
ring from stub axle shaft Discard snap ring - it is not reusable. 4. Pull lightly on the shaft and rotate
it until the output shaft snap ring at the differential seats in the taper on the differential side gear. 5.
Stub shaft from transaxle using slide hammer J 6125 and shaft removal tool J 38868. 6. Right hand
axle seal from transaxle using seal removal tool J 23129 and slide hammer J 6125 or a screw
driver.
- Do not damage seal bore or sleeve assembly or fluid leaks may result.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. New seal using J 41102. Lubricate seal lip with a light wipe of transmission oil. 2. Two new snap
rings on the stub shaft.
IMPORTANT: Carefully guide axle shaft past lip seal. Do not allow shaft splines to contact any
portion of the seal lip surface, otherwise damage to the seal will occur.
3. Stub shaft into transaxle using a mallet.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Seals and Gaskets, A/T
> System Information > Service and Repair > Transaxle Side Seals > Page 7164
4. Drive Axle. 5. Lower vehicle.
Inspect
- For leaks.
- Oil level, refer to TRANSAXLE OIL LEVEL CHECKING PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Seals and Gaskets, A/T
> System Information > Service and Repair > Transaxle Side Seals > Page 7165
Seals and Gaskets: Service and Repair Torque Converter Seal
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove negative battery cable. 2. Remove transaxle assembly from vehicle. 3. Remove the
torque convertor assembly from the transaxle. 4. Remove the turbine shaft O-ring from the end of
the turbine shaft using a screw driver.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Assemble a new turbine shaft O-ring on the end of the turbine shaft. 2. Install the torque
convertor onto the transaxle. 3. Install the transaxle into the vehicle. Refer to TRANSAXLE
ASSEMBLY. 4. Connect negative battery cable.
Adjust
- Oil level, refer to TRANSAXLE OIL LEVEL CHECKING PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Brake Switch - TCC > Component Information > Description and Operation
Brake Switch - TCC: Description and Operation
The TCC brake switch signal indicates when the brake pedal is applied. The TCC brake switch
information is used by the PCM mainly to control the Transaxle torque converter clutch. Refer to
Automatic Transmission/Transaxle diagnosis for a complete description and TCC brake switch
diagnosis.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove negative battery cable. 2. Remove transaxle case side cover. 3. Remove pressure
switch assembly (6 bolts).
IMPORTANT: Inspect the O-rings for the pressure switch assembly for any damage.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the pressure switch assembly making sure all O-rings are in place. 2. Torque the 6 bolts
holding the pressure switch assembly to 12 Nm (9 ft. lbs.). 3. Install the transaxle case side cover.
4. Connect the negative battery cable. 5. Refill transaxle with fluid to proper level. Refer to 4T40E
OIL LEVEL CHECKING AND FILL PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7181
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7182
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7188
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7189
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service
Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 01-08-63-003 > May > 01 > Hood - Will Not latch
Hood Latch: All Technical Service Bulletins Hood - Will Not latch
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 01-08-63-003
Date: May, 2001
TECHNICAL
Subject: Hood Will Not Latch (Reroute Hood Release Cable)
Models: 1997-2001 Chevrolet Malibu 1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass
Condition
Some customers may comment that when they close the hood, the primary latch does not engage.
This condition occurs during cold weather.
Cause
The hood release cable slopes downward from the hood latch assembly which traps water inside.
In freezing temperatures, ice forms and prevents the cable from returning to the latch position after
it is released.
Correction
Thaw the hood release cable and reroute using the appropriate service procedure below.
Service Procedure (Chevrolet Malibu)
1. Open the hood.
2. Remove the push-in retainers (1) from the upper edge of the grille.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service
Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 01-08-63-003 > May > 01 > Hood - Will Not latch > Page 7195
3. Disconnect the grille (3) from the fascia (2) by pulling upward on the grille.
4. Remove the two upper push-in retainers (2) from the left splash deflector.
Position the deflector out of the way by pulling the top downward.
5. Reposition the hood release cable (1) from below the splash deflector to above the splash
deflector.
6. Reinstall the two splash deflector push-in retainers (2).
7. Reinstall the grille into the fascia and reinstall the push-in retainers on the upper edge of the
grille.
8. Close and reopen the hood to insure proper operation.
Service Procedure (Oldsmobile Cutlass)
1. Open the hood.
2. Raise the vehicle on the hoist.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service
Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 01-08-63-003 > May > 01 > Hood - Will Not latch > Page 7196
3. Remove the two upper push-in retainers (2) from the left splash deflector.
4. Position the deflector out of the way by pulling the top downward.
5. Reposition the hood release cable (1) from below the splash deflector to above the splash
deflector.
6. Reinstall the two splash deflector push-in retainers (1).
7. Lower the vehicle.
8. Close and reopen the hood to insure proper operation.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service
Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 01-08-63-003 > May > 01 > Hood - Will Not latch > Page 7202
3. Disconnect the grille (3) from the fascia (2) by pulling upward on the grille.
4. Remove the two upper push-in retainers (2) from the left splash deflector.
Position the deflector out of the way by pulling the top downward.
5. Reposition the hood release cable (1) from below the splash deflector to above the splash
deflector.
6. Reinstall the two splash deflector push-in retainers (2).
7. Reinstall the grille into the fascia and reinstall the push-in retainers on the upper edge of the
grille.
8. Close and reopen the hood to insure proper operation.
Service Procedure (Oldsmobile Cutlass)
1. Open the hood.
2. Raise the vehicle on the hoist.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service
Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 01-08-63-003 > May > 01 > Hood - Will Not latch > Page 7203
3. Remove the two upper push-in retainers (2) from the left splash deflector.
4. Position the deflector out of the way by pulling the top downward.
5. Reposition the hood release cable (1) from below the splash deflector to above the splash
deflector.
6. Reinstall the two splash deflector push-in retainers (1).
7. Lower the vehicle.
8. Close and reopen the hood to insure proper operation.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7204
Valid Input Combinations
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > C1
Transaxle Range Switch: C1
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 7207
Transaxle Range Switch: C2
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 7208
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Description and Operation
Valid Input Combinations
DESCRIPTION
The Transaxle Range Switch is part of the Transaxle Park/Neutral Position (PNP) switch mounted
on the transaxle manual shaft. The 4 inputs from the transaxle range switch indicate to the PCM
which position is selected by the Transaxle selector lever. This information is used for transmission
shift control, ignition timing, EVAP canister purge, EGR and Idle Air Control (IAC) valve operation.
The combination of the four transaxle range input states determine the PCM commanded shift
pattern.
The input voltage level at the PCM is high (B+) when the transaxle range switch is open and low
when the switch is closed to ground. The state of each input is represented on the scan tool as
X=high voltage level, O=low voltage level. The four parameters represent transaxle range switch
Parity, A, B, and C inputs respectively.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 7209
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 7210
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 7211
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift linkage. 3. Electrical connector. 4. Mounting bolts. 5. Switch
assembly.
REPLACEMENT - USING OLD SWITCH
Install Or Connect 1. Place shift shaft in NEUTRAL. 2. Align flats of shift shaft with switch. 3.
Mounting bolts, loosely. 4. Insert J 41545 and rotate switch until tool drops into position.
Tighten Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Remove Or Disconnect 1. J 41545.
IMPORTANT: After switch adjustment, verify that engine will only start in PARK or NEUTRAL. If engine will start
in any other position, readjust switch.
REPLACEMENT - USING NEW SWITCH
Install Or Connect 1. Place shift shaft in NEUTRAL. 2. Align flats of shift shaft to flats in switch and
install switch assembly. 3. Mounting bolts. 4. Insert tool J 41545 and rotate switch until tool drops
into position.
Tighten Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Important: After switch installation verify that engine will only start in PARK or NEUTRAL. If engine will start in
any other position, readjust switch using Replacement - Using Old Switch procedure.
Adjust 1. Place transaxle control shifter assembly in the NEUTRAL notch in detent plate. 2. Loosen
switch attaching bolts. 3. Rotate switch on shifter assembly to align J 41545.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 7212
Tighten Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
4. Remove J 41545.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions
Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Instructions > Page 7218
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Instructions > Page 7219
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Instructions > Page 7220
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Instructions > Page 7221
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Instructions > Page 7223
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Instructions > Page 7233
Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Instructions > Page 7234
Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Instructions > Page 7235
Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Instructions > Page 7236
Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Instructions > Page 7237
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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Instructions > Page 7238
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Instructions > Page 7239
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Instructions > Page 7240
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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Instructions > Page 7241
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Instructions > Page 7242
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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Instructions > Page 7243
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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Instructions > Page 7244
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Instructions > Page 7245
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Instructions > Page 7246
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Instructions > Page 7247
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Instructions > Page 7248
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Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Description and Operation
Description
Description
The Transaxle Fluid Temperature (TFT) sensor is a thermistor which changes value based on the
temperature of the transaxle fluid. A high transaxle fluid temperature may cause the vehicle to
operate in "Hot Mode." While in "Hot Mode," shift points may be altered, 4th gear disabled, and
Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) forced ON in 2nd gear.
A failure in the TFT sensor or associated wiring should cause DTC P0712 or P0713 to set. In this
case, engine coolant temperature will be substituted for the TFT sensor value, and the transaxle
will operate normally. Refer to Automatic Transmission/Transaxle Diagnosis for a complete
description of the TFT sensor.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Brake Transmission
Shift Interlock <--> [Shift Interlock, A/T] > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information > Locations
Under Center Console
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Brake Transmission
Shift Interlock <--> [Shift Interlock, A/T] > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information > Locations > Page 7254
Brake Transaxle Shift Interlock Solenoid
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Shift Solenoid: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove negative battery cable. 2. Remove transaxle case side cover. 3. Remove retainer clip
from the specified solenoid using a small screwdriver. 4. A shift solenoid has one O-ring. The
pressure control solenoid and TCC solenoid have 2 O-rings. Remove the solenoid and O-ring or
O-rings from
transaxle.
IMPORTANT: Inspect the O-rings and solenoids for any damage.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the solenoid and O-ring or O-rings. 2. Install the retainer clip holding the solenoid in the
valve body. 3. Install the transaxle case side cover. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 7258
5. Refill transaxle with fluid to proper level. Refer to 4T40E OIL LEVEL CHECKING AND FILL
PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Linkage, A/T >
Shift Cable, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair
Shift Cable: Service and Repair
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Linkage, A/T >
Shift Cable, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 7263
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Cable at transaxle selector lever. 3. Cable at transaxle cable bracket.
4. Center console. Refer to Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators. 5. Cable at shin
control assembly. 6. Cable grommet at cowl. 7. Cable from vehicle.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Cable through cowl and carpet. 2. Cable grommet and bolts in cowl.
Tighten Grommet bolts to 2 Nm (17 inch lbs.).
3. Cable at shift control assembly. 4. Center control. Refer to Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Warning Indicators. 5. Cable at transaxle cable brackets. 6. Cable at transaxle selector lever. 7.
Negative battery cable. 8. Adjust cable.
ADJUST
1. Place shift lever in NEUTRAL.
- NEUTRAL can be found by rotating the selector shaft clockwise from PARK through REVERSE to
NEUTRAL.
2. Place shift control assembly in NEUTRAL. 3. Pull cable locking clip fully upward. 4. Push tab on
cable adjuster to adjust cable in cable mounting bracket.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-07-30-022D > Jun > 08 > A/T - 4L60/65E, No
Reverse/2nd or 4th Gear
Sun Gear: Customer Interest A/T - 4L60/65E, No Reverse/2nd or 4th Gear
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 00-07-30-022D
Date: June 10, 2008
Subject: No Reverse, Second Gear or Fourth Gear (Replace Reaction Sun Shell with More Robust
Heat Treated Parts)
Models: 1993 - 2005 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2003 - 2005 HUMMER H2
with 4L60/65-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30 or M32)
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add 2005 model year to the parts information. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-07-30-022C (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a no reverse, no second or no fourth gear condition. First and
third gears will operate properly.
Cause
The reaction sun gear (673) may not hold inside the reaction sun shell (670).
Correction
Important:
There are FOUR distinct groups of vehicles and repair procedures involved. Vehicles built in the
2001 model year and prior that make use of a reaction shaft to shell thrust washer:
^ The sun shell can be identified by four square holes used to retain the thrust washer. Use
reaction sun shell P/N 24228345, reaction carrier to shell thrust washer (699B) P/N 8642202 and
reaction sun gear shell thrust washer (674) P/N 8642331er (674) P/N 8642331along with the
appropriate seals and washers listed below.
^ Vehicles built in the 2001 model year and prior that have had previous service to the reaction sun
shell: It is possible that some 2001 and prior model year vehicles have had previous service to the
reaction sun shell. At the time of service, these vehicles may have been updated with a Reaction
Sun Shell Kit (Refer to Service Bulletin 020730003) without four square holes to retain the thrust
washer. If it is found in a 2001 model year and prior vehicles that the reaction sun shell DOES NOT
have four square holes to retain the thrust washer, these vehicles must be serviced with P/Ns
24229825 (674), 24217328 and 8642331 along with the appropriate seals and washers listed
below.
^ Vehicles built in the 2001 model year and later that make use of a reaction shaft to shell thrust
bearing: The sun shell can be identified by no holes to retain the thrust washer. Use reaction sun
shell, P/N 24229825, reaction carrier shaft to shell thrust bearing (669A), P/N 24217328 and
reaction sun gear shell thrust washer (674), P/N 8642331 along with the appropriate seals and
washers listed below.
^ Vehicles built from November, 2001 through June, 2002: These vehicles should have the reaction
carrier shaft replaced when the sun shell is replaced. Use shell kit P/N 24229853, which contains a
sun shell (670), a reaction carrier shaft (666), a reaction carrier shaft to shell thrust bearing (669A)
and a reaction sun gear shell thrust washer (674). The appropriate seals and washers listed below
should also be used.
When servicing the transmission as a result of this condition, the transmission oil cooler and lines
MUST be flushed. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 02-07-30-052.
Follow the service procedure below for diagnosis and correction of the no reverse, no second, no
forth condition.
Important:
If metallic debris is found on the transmission magnet, the transmission must be completely
disassembled and cleaned. Metallic debris is defined as broken parts and pieces of internal
transmission components. This should not be confused with typical "normal" fine particles found on
all transmission magnets. Failure to properly clean the transmission case and internal components
may lead to additional repeat repairs.
1. Remove the transmission oil pan and inspect the magnet in the bottom of the pan for metal
debris. Refer to SI Document ID # 825141.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-07-30-022D > Jun > 08 > A/T - 4L60/65E, No
Reverse/2nd or 4th Gear > Page 7272
2. Remove the transmission from the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate SI document.
Important:
^ Inspect all the transmission components for damage or wear. Replace all damaged or worn
components. The parts shown above should be sufficient to correct this concern.
^ This condition does not normally require replacement of the transmission completely.
Components such as clutches, valve body, pump and torque converters will NOT require
replacement to correct this condition.
Disassemble the transmission and replace the appropriate parts listed below. Refer to the Unit
Repair Manual - Repair Instructions.
3. Reinstall the transmission in the vehicle. Refer to appropriate service information.
When servicing the transmission as a result of this condition, the transmission oil cooler and lines
MUST be flushed. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 02-07-30-052.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-07-30-022D > Jun > 08 > A/T - 4L60/65E, No
Reverse/2nd or 4th Gear > Page 7273
Parts Information
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 00-07-30-022D > Jun > 08 > A/T - 4L60/65E,
No Reverse/2nd or 4th Gear
Sun Gear: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 4L60/65E, No Reverse/2nd or 4th Gear
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 00-07-30-022D
Date: June 10, 2008
Subject: No Reverse, Second Gear or Fourth Gear (Replace Reaction Sun Shell with More Robust
Heat Treated Parts)
Models: 1993 - 2005 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2003 - 2005 HUMMER H2
with 4L60/65-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30 or M32)
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add 2005 model year to the parts information. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-07-30-022C (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a no reverse, no second or no fourth gear condition. First and
third gears will operate properly.
Cause
The reaction sun gear (673) may not hold inside the reaction sun shell (670).
Correction
Important:
There are FOUR distinct groups of vehicles and repair procedures involved. Vehicles built in the
2001 model year and prior that make use of a reaction shaft to shell thrust washer:
^ The sun shell can be identified by four square holes used to retain the thrust washer. Use
reaction sun shell P/N 24228345, reaction carrier to shell thrust washer (699B) P/N 8642202 and
reaction sun gear shell thrust washer (674) P/N 8642331er (674) P/N 8642331along with the
appropriate seals and washers listed below.
^ Vehicles built in the 2001 model year and prior that have had previous service to the reaction sun
shell: It is possible that some 2001 and prior model year vehicles have had previous service to the
reaction sun shell. At the time of service, these vehicles may have been updated with a Reaction
Sun Shell Kit (Refer to Service Bulletin 020730003) without four square holes to retain the thrust
washer. If it is found in a 2001 model year and prior vehicles that the reaction sun shell DOES NOT
have four square holes to retain the thrust washer, these vehicles must be serviced with P/Ns
24229825 (674), 24217328 and 8642331 along with the appropriate seals and washers listed
below.
^ Vehicles built in the 2001 model year and later that make use of a reaction shaft to shell thrust
bearing: The sun shell can be identified by no holes to retain the thrust washer. Use reaction sun
shell, P/N 24229825, reaction carrier shaft to shell thrust bearing (669A), P/N 24217328 and
reaction sun gear shell thrust washer (674), P/N 8642331 along with the appropriate seals and
washers listed below.
^ Vehicles built from November, 2001 through June, 2002: These vehicles should have the reaction
carrier shaft replaced when the sun shell is replaced. Use shell kit P/N 24229853, which contains a
sun shell (670), a reaction carrier shaft (666), a reaction carrier shaft to shell thrust bearing (669A)
and a reaction sun gear shell thrust washer (674). The appropriate seals and washers listed below
should also be used.
When servicing the transmission as a result of this condition, the transmission oil cooler and lines
MUST be flushed. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 02-07-30-052.
Follow the service procedure below for diagnosis and correction of the no reverse, no second, no
forth condition.
Important:
If metallic debris is found on the transmission magnet, the transmission must be completely
disassembled and cleaned. Metallic debris is defined as broken parts and pieces of internal
transmission components. This should not be confused with typical "normal" fine particles found on
all transmission magnets. Failure to properly clean the transmission case and internal components
may lead to additional repeat repairs.
1. Remove the transmission oil pan and inspect the magnet in the bottom of the pan for metal
debris. Refer to SI Document ID # 825141.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 00-07-30-022D > Jun > 08 > A/T - 4L60/65E,
No Reverse/2nd or 4th Gear > Page 7279
2. Remove the transmission from the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate SI document.
Important:
^ Inspect all the transmission components for damage or wear. Replace all damaged or worn
components. The parts shown above should be sufficient to correct this concern.
^ This condition does not normally require replacement of the transmission completely.
Components such as clutches, valve body, pump and torque converters will NOT require
replacement to correct this condition.
Disassemble the transmission and replace the appropriate parts listed below. Refer to the Unit
Repair Manual - Repair Instructions.
3. Reinstall the transmission in the vehicle. Refer to appropriate service information.
When servicing the transmission as a result of this condition, the transmission oil cooler and lines
MUST be flushed. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 02-07-30-052.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 00-07-30-022D > Jun > 08 > A/T - 4L60/65E,
No Reverse/2nd or 4th Gear > Page 7280
Parts Information
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Sun Gear: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Sun Gear: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7286
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Sun Gear: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7287
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Sun Gear: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7293
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Sun Gear: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7294
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Torque Converter Replacement Information
Torque Converter: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Torque Converter Replacement Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-010C
Date: May 12, 2008
Subject: Automatic Transmission/Transaxle Torque Converter Replacement
Models: 2009 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2009 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2009
and Prior Saturn Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Except VTi Equipped Vehicles (RPO M16 and M75)
2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
with ALL Automatic Transmissions and Transaxles
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2007-2009 model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 01-07-30-010B (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The purpose of this bulletin is to help technicians determine when a torque converter should be
replaced. Below is a list of general guidelines to follow.
The converter should NOT be replaced if the following apply:
^ DTC P0742 - TCC stuck on is set. This code is almost always the result of a controls condition
(i.e. stuck TCC solenoid/valve). Experience has shown that this code rarely indicates a mechanical
concern within the torque converter.
^ The fluid has an odor or is discolored but no evidence of metal contamination.
^ Fine metal particles (traces of metal flakes/gray color to fluid ) are found in the converter. This is
not harmful to the torque converter.
^ The vehicle has been exposed to high mileage.
^ A small amount of wear appears on the hub where the oil pump drive gear mates to the converter
(RWD only). A certain amount of such wear is normal for both the hub and oil pump gear. Neither
the converter nor the front pump assembly should be replaced.
The torque converter should be replaced under any of the following conditions:
^ The vehicle has TCC shudder and/or no TCC apply. First complete all electrical and hydraulic
diagnosis and check for proper engine operation. The converter clutch may be damaged. Also the
converter bushing and/or internal 0-ring may be damaged.
^ Evidence of damage to the oil pump assembly pump shaft turbine shaft drive sprocket support
and bearing or metal chips/debris in the converter.
^ Metal chips/debris are found in the converter or when flushing the cooler and the cooler lines.
^ External leaks in the hub weld area lug weld or closure weld.
^ Converter pilot is broken damaged or fits poorly into the crankshaft.
^ The converter hub is scored or damaged.
^ The transmission oil is contaminated with engine coolant engine oil or water.
^ If excessive end play is found after measuring the converter for proper end play (refer to Service
Manual).
^ If metal chips/debris are found in the fluid filter or on the magnet and no internal parts in the unit
are worn or damaged. This indicates that the material came from the converter.
^ The converter has an unbalanced condition that results in a vibration that cannot be corrected by
following Converter Vibration Procedures.
^ Blue converter or dark circular ring between lugs. This condition will also require a complete
cleaning of the cooler and a check for adequate flow
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Torque Converter Replacement Information > Page 7299
through the cooler.
^ Converter bearing noise determined by noise from the bell housing area in Drive or Reverse at
idle. The noise is gone in Neutral and Park.
^ If silicon from the viscous clutch is found in the lower pan (4T80-E ONLY).
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7300
Torque Converter: Testing and Inspection
GENERAL PROCEDURE
1. Start engine. 2. With engine at idle speed and the transaxle in Park or Neutral, observe vibration.
3. Shut off engine.
Remove Or Disconnect a. Converter shield attaching bolts. b. Flywheel to torque converter
attaching bolts. c. Rotate torque converter 120° (1/3 turn).
Install Or Connect a. Torque converter to flywheel bolts. Apply adhesive/sealant compound GM
P/N 12345493 or equivalent to flywheel bolts.
Tighten Bolts to 62 Nm (46 ft. lbs.). Hand start and tighten "net slot" bolt first. Hand start and tighten the two
remaining bolts.
b. Transaxle converter cover bolts.
Tighten -
Bolts to 10 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
4. Start engine and check for vibration. Repeat this procedure until the best possible balance is
obtained by moving flywheel 120°.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Flywheel to Torque Converter Bolts
Torque Converter: Service and Repair Flywheel to Torque Converter Bolts
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle and support the vehicle.
2. Transaxle converter cover bolts and cover. 3. Mark relationship of converter to flywheel. 4. Three
bolts attaching converter to flywheel.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Bolts attaching converter to flywheel.
Tighten All bolts to 62 Nm (46 ft. lbs.). Retorque the first bolt after all three have been tightened.
2. Converter cover and attaching bolts.
Tighten Bolts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).
3. Lower vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Flywheel to Torque Converter Bolts > Page 7303
Torque Converter: Service and Repair Torque Convertor and Turbine Shaft Seal
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove negative battery cable. 2. Remove transaxle assembly from vehicle. 3. Remove the
torque convertor assembly from the transaxle. 4. Remove the turbine shaft O-ring from the end of
the turbine shaft using a screw driver.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Assemble a new turbine shaft O-ring on the end of the turbine shaft. 2. Install the torque
convertor onto the transaxle. 3. Install the transaxle into the vehicle. Refer to TRANSAXLE
ASSEMBLY. 4. Connect negative battery cable.
Adjust
- Oil level, refer to TRANSAXLE OIL LEVEL CHECKING PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter
Check Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Revised Converter Check Valve/Cooler Line
Fitting
Torque Converter Check Valve: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Revised Converter Check
Valve/Cooler Line Fitting
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-017B
Date: November 25, 2008
Subject: Information on 4T65-E MN7, M15, M76, MN3 Automatic Transmission Case, Cooler
Fitting and Torque Converter Drain Back Check Ball Change
Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
with one of the HYDRA-MATIC(R) Automatic Transmissions shown above.
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the Parts Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-017A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Effective with Julian date 4019 (January 19, 2004), the 4T65E transaxle cases and cooler fittings
have changed and are not interchangeable with past models. The technician may find that when
replacing the inlet or outlet transmission cooler lines, the new lines cannot be connected to the
transmission.
A change to the transmission cooler line fittings was implemented in production on February 1,
2004. The cooler line fittings were changed to a design with a longer lead in pilot (1). The cooler
line fittings with the longer lead in pilot will not fit on models built before February 1, 2004.
The longer lead in pilot fittings (1) (9/16-18 UNF) have replaced the shorter lead in pilot fittings (2)
(3/8-18 NPSF w/check ball & 1/4-18 NPSF).
If the transmission cooler lines will not connect, then replace them with the following cooler line
fittings as appropriate with the older, shorter lead in pilot design:
^ For vehicles built prior to February 1, 2004, use Transmission Fluid Cooler Inlet Hose, P/N
20793004.
^ For vehicles built after February 1, 2004, use Transmission Fluid Cooler Inlet Hose, second
design P/N 15264588.
^ For vehicles built prior to February 1, 2004, use Transmission Fluid Cooler Outlet Hose, P/N
20793005.
^ For vehicles built after February 1, 2004, use Transmission Fluid Cooler Outlet Hose, second
design P/N 15264589.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter
Check Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Revised Converter Check Valve/Cooler Line
Fitting > Page 7308
The torque specification has changed for the fittings to case. The torque has changed from 38 Nm
(28 lb ft) to 32 Nm (23 lb ft).
Tighten
Tighten the new cooler fittings to 32 Nm (23 lb ft).
The converter drain back check ball (420C) has been removed from the cooler line fitting and is
now located in the channel plate.
If you get a concern of no movement in the morning or after sitting for several hours, the cooler
check ball should be inspected.
The best way to determine where the check ball is located is to look at the cooler line fittings. The
old fittings are different sizes (3/8-18 NPSF & 1/4-18 NPSF) and would contain the cooler check
ball. The new fittings are the same size as each other (9/16-18 UNF) and do not have a cooler
check ball.
Parts Information
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter
Clutch, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
Torque Converter Clutch: Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
Functional Check - 4T40-E Transaxle
1. Install a tachometer or a scan tool. 2. Operate the vehicle until you have reached the proper
operating temperature. 3. Drive the vehicle at 80-88 km/h (50-55 mph) with a light throttle (road
load). 4. Maintaining throttle speed, lightly touch the brake pedal. Check for the release of the TCC
and a slight increase in engine speed. 5. Release the brake and slowly accelerate. Check for a
reapply of the converter clutch and a slight decrease in engine speed.
Preliminary Checks - TCC - 4T40-E Transaxle
To properly diagnose the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) system perform all electrical testing first
and then the hydraulic testing. Refer to Engine and AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE for additional
information. For electrical schematic of TCC system, Refer to Engine.
Preliminary Information - TCC - 4T40-E Transaxle
In order to properly diagnose the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) system, perform all electrical
testing first. Then perform the hydraulic testing.
The TCC is applied by fluid pressure, which is controlled by a solenoid valve. This solenoid valve is
located inside of the valve body.
The solenoid valve energizes by completing an electrical circuit through a combination of switches
and sensors.
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Clutch, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 7313
Torque Converter Clutch: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
Noise - 4T40-E Transaxle
IMPORTANT: Do not confuse this noise with pump whine noise, which is usually noticeable in
Park, Neutral, and all other gear ranges. Pump whine will vary with line pressure.
You may notice a torque converter whine when the vehicle is stopped and the transaxle is in Drive
or Reverse. This noise will increase as you increase the engine RPM. The noise will stop when the
vehicle is moving or when you apply the torque converter clutch, because both halves of the
converter are turning at the same speed.
Perform a stall test to make sure the noise is actually coming from the converter: 1. Place your foot
on the brake. 2. Put the gear selector in Drive.
NOTICE: You may damage the transmission if you depress the accelerator for more than six
seconds.
3. Depress the accelerator to approximately 1200 RPM for no more than six seconds. A torque
converter noise will increase under this load.
Poor Acceleration at High Speed - 4T40-E Transaxle
If the stator is locked up at all times, performance is normal when accelerating from a standstill.
Engine RPM and car speed are limited or restricted at high speeds. Visual examination of the
converter may reveal a blue color from overheating.
If the converter has been removed, you can check the stator roller clutch by inserting two fingers
into the splined inner race of the roller clutch and trying to turn the race in both directions. You
should be able to freely turn the inner race clockwise, but you should have difficulty in moving the
inner race counterclockwise or you may be unable to move the race at all.
Poor Acceleration at Low Speed - 4T40-E Transaxle
If the stator is freewheeling at all times, the car tends to have poor acceleration from a standstill. At
speeds above 50-55 km/h (30-35 mph), the car may act normally.
For poor acceleration, you should first determine that the exhaust system is not blocked, and the
transmission is in First gear when starting out.
If the engine freely accelerates to high RPM in Neutral, you can assume that the engine and the
exhaust system are normal. Check for poor performance in Drive and Reverse to help determine if
the stator is freewheeling at all times.
General Information
The key to diagnosing Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) shudder is to note when it happens and
under what conditions.
TCC shudder which is caused by the transmission should only occur during the apply or the
release of the converter clutch. Shudder should seldom occur after the TCC plate is fully applied.
If Shudder Occurs While TCC Is Applying or Releasing
If the shudder occurs while the TCC is applying, the problem can be within the transmission or the
torque converter. Something is causing one of the following conditions to occur: Something is not allowing the clutch to become fully engaged.
- Something is not allowing the clutch to release.
- The clutch is releasing and applying at the same time.
One of the following conditions may be causing the problem to occur: Leaking turbine shaft seals.
- A restricted release orifice.
- A distorted clutch or housing surface due to long converter bolts.
- Defective friction material on the TCC plate.
If Shudder Occurs After TCC Has Applied
If shudder occurs after the TCC has applied, most of the time there is nothing wrong with the
transmission!
As mentioned above, the TCC is not likely to slip after the TCC has been applied. Engine problems
may go unnoticed under light throttle and load, but they become noticeable after the TCC apply
when going up a hill or accelerating. This is due to the mechanical coupling between the engine
and the transmission.
Once TCC is applied, there is no torque converter (fluid coupling) assistance. Engine or driveling
vibrations could be unnoticeable before TCC
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Clutch, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 7314
engagement.
Inspect the following components in order to avoid misdiagnosis of TCC shudder. An inspection will
also avoid the unnecessary disassembly of a transmission or the unnecessary replacement of a
converter.
- Spark plugs - Inspect for cracks, high resistance or a broken insulator.
- Plug wires - Look in each end. If there is red dust (ozone) or a black substance (carbon) present,
then the wires are bad. Also look for a white discoloration of the wire. This indicates arcing during
hard acceleration.
- Distributor cap and rotor - Look for broken or uncrimped parts.
- Coil - Look for a black discoloration on the bottom of the coil. This indicates arcing while the
engine is misfiring.
- Fuel injector - The filter may be plugged.
- Vacuum leak - The engine will not get a correct amount of fuel. The mixture may run rich or lean
depending on where the leak occurs.
- EGR valve - The valve may let in too much or too little unburnable exhaust gas and could cause
the engine to run rich or lean.
- MAP/MAF sensor - Like a vacuum leak, the engine will not get the correct amount of fuel for
proper engine operation.
- Carbon on the intake valves - Carbon restricts the proper flow of air/fuel mixture into the cylinders.
- Flat cam - Valves do not open enough to let the proper fuel/air mixture into the cylinders.
- Oxygen sensor - This sensor may command the engine too rich or too lean for too long.
- Fuel pressure - This may be too low.
- Engine mounts - Vibration of the mounts can be multiplied by TCC engagement.
- Axle joints - Check for vibration.
- TP Sensor - The TCC apply and release depends on the TP Sensor in many engines. If the TP
Sensor is out of specification, TCC may remain applied during initial engine loading.
- Cylinder balance - Bad piston rings or poorly sealing valves can cause low power in a cylinder.
- Fuel contamination - This causes poor engine performance.
Vibration Test Procedure
GENERAL PROCEDURE
1. Start the engine. 2. With the engine at idle speed and the transmission in Park or Neutral,
observe the vibration. 3. Turn the key off.
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the bolts attaching the flexplate shield. 2. Remove the bolts attaching the flexplate to
the torque converter. 3. Rotate the torque converter 120°.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the flexplate to the torque converter. Secure with the attaching bolts.
Tighten Tighten the bolts to 62 Nm (46 ft. lbs.).
2. Install the flexplate shield. Secure with attaching bolts. Start the engine and check for vibration.
Repeat the procedure until you obtain the best
possible balance.
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Clutch, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 7315
Torque Converter Clutch: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Torque Converter Stator - 4T40-E Transaxle
The torque converter stator roller clutch can have two different malfunctions. The stator assembly freewheels in both directions.
- The stator assembly remains locked up at all times.
When to Replace the Torque Converter - 4T40-E Transaxle
Replace the torque converter under any of the following conditions: External leaks appear in the hub weld area.
- The converter hub is scored or damaged.
- The converter pilot is broken, damaged, or fits poorly into the crankshaft.
- You discover steel particles after flushing the cooler and the cooler lines.
- The pump is damaged or you discover steel particles in the converter.
- The vehicle has TCC shudder and/or no TCC apply. Replace the torque converter only after all
hydraulic and electrical diagnoses have been made. The converter clutch material may be glazed.
- The converter has an imbalance which cannot be corrected. Refer to the FLEXPLATE/TORQUE
CONVERTER VIBRATION TEST PROCEDURE.
- The converter is contaminated with engine coolant which contains antifreeze.
- An internal failure occurs in the stator roller clutch.
- You notice excessive end play.
- Overheating produces heavy debris in the clutch.
- You discover steel particles or clutch lining material in the fluid filter or on the magnet, when no
internal parts in the unit are worn or damaged. This condition indicates that lining material came
from the converter.
When You Do Not Replace the Torque Converter - 4T40-E Transaxle
Do not replace the torque converter if you discover any of the following symptoms: The oil has an odor or the oil is discolored even though metal or clutch facing particles are not
present.
- The threads in one or more of the converter bolt holds are damaged. Correct the condition with a
thread insert.
- Transmission failure did not display evidence of damaged or worn internal parts, steel particles or
clutch plate lining material in the unit and inside the fluid filter.
- The vehicle has been exposed to high mileage only. An exception may exist where the lining of
the torque converter clutch dampener plate has seen excess wear by vehicles operated in heavy
and/or constant traffic, such as taxi delivery, or police use.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter
Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove negative battery cable. 2. Remove transaxle case side cover. 3. Remove retainer clip
from the specified solenoid using a small screwdriver. 4. A shift solenoid has one O-ring. The
pressure control solenoid and TCC solenoid have 2 O-rings. Remove the solenoid and O-ring or
O-rings from
transaxle.
IMPORTANT: Inspect the O-rings and solenoids for any damage.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the solenoid and O-ring or O-rings. 2. Install the retainer clip holding the solenoid in the
valve body. 3. Install the transaxle case side cover. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 7319
5. Refill transaxle with fluid to proper level. Refer to 4T40E OIL LEVEL CHECKING AND FILL
PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Fluid Oil Cooler Flush
Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Fluid Oil Cooler Flush
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 02-07-30-052G
Date: March 02, 2011
Subject: Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Flush and Flow Test Essential Tool J 45096
TransFlow(R)
Models:
2011 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2003-2010 HUMMER H2 2006-2010
HUMMER H3 with Automatic Transmission/Transaxle including Allison(R) Transmissions
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 02-07-30-052F (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Important All labor operations that include removal of the transmission from the vehicle include
labor time to flush the transmission oil cooler system.
The J 45096 transmission oil cooling system flush and flow test tool replaces current tool J
35944-A. J 45096 is a self-contained unit utilizing a 12-volt flow meter, shop air supply and
DEXRON(R) VI automatic transmission fluid (ATF). In the flush mode, transmission fluid is cycled
through the transmission oil cooling system. High-pressure air is automatically injected into the fluid
stream adding agitation to the ATF oil to enhance the removal of contaminated ATF oil and debris.
In the flow mode, an electronic flow meter is used to measure the flow capability of the ATF oil
cooling system. A digital display indicates the ATF oil flow rate in gallons per minute (GPM) along
with the amount of ATF oil in the supply vessel, supply vessel ATF oil temperature, machine cycles
and the operating mode. The supply oil vessel has 30 L (32 qt) capacity and the waste oil vessel
has 32 L (34 qt) capacity. The waste oil vessel is constructed of a translucent composite material
that allows the user to easily identify the oil level. The waste oil vessel can accommodate vacuum
evacuation and gravity draining. In the code mode, a random, encrypted code is generated that can
be used for verification of flow test results.
Current essential cooler line adapters are used to connect the J 45096 to the automatic
transmission oil cooler lines that allows J 45096 to adapt to General Motors passenger cars and
light duty trucks, current and past models (except the Pontiac Vibe, Wave and Chevrolet Aveo).
The tool may be adapted for use on the Pontiac Vibe, Wave and Chevrolet Aveo by dealership
personnel with a barbed hose connector and rubber hose obtained locally. The
Vibe's/Wave's/Aveo's transmission has a transmission oil requirement which is slightly different
than DEXRON(R) VI ATF. However, flushing the cooler with DEXRON(R) VI automatic
transmission fluid is an acceptable service procedure. Very little fluid remains in the cooler after the
flush procedure and the residual DEXRON(R) VI ATF in the cooler is compatible with the
Vibe's/Wave's/Aveo's transmission fluid.
Notice
Insufficient oil flow through the ATF oil cooling system will cause premature transmission failure.
The required minimum ATF oil flow rate reading is directly related to the supply oil temperature.
Refer to the flow rate reference chart for the oil flow rate specification based on the temperature of
the ATF in the supply vessel.
Helpful Hints for Maintaining the Temperature at or above 18°C (65°F)
Important
- The temperature of the supply vessel oil must be 18°C (65°F) or greater for J 45096 to operate. It
is recommended to store the J 45096 in an area of the dealership where the room temperature
remains at or above 18°C (65°F) when not in use.
- Do not attempt to increase the fluid temperature in the Transflow(R) machine with an engine oil
dipstick, or any other immersion type heater. The Transflow(R) machine has a check valve in the
supply reservoir. Inserting a heater will damage the check valve and the subsequent repair
expense would be the dealer's responsibility.
- A heater blanket, P/N J-45096-10, is available for the Transflow(R) transmission cooling system
flushing tool. This heater fastens around the Transflow(R) internal supply vessel and runs on 110
volts AC. The heater will warm the ATF in the supply vessel to at least 18°C (65° F) and has a
thermostat to hold a constant temperature.
Store the Transmission Cooling System Service Tool, J 45096, Transflow(R) machine in a room
where the temperature is maintained at or above 18°C (65°F).
Keep the ATF level in the reservoir low when the Transmission Cooling System Service Tool, J
45096, Transflow(R), is not in use. Store several gallons of oil in an area where the temperature is
maintained at or above 18°C (65°F). Fill the reservoir of the J 45096 as needed before using the
machine on
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each repair.
With the ATF in a tightly sealed container, place the container in a tub of hot water for a period of
time. Then pour the ATF into the reservoir. This method works best with a low fluid level in the
reservoir.
Place the Transflow(R) machine in the direct sunlight with the cabinet door open to expose the
reservoir to the rays of the warm sun.
Flush / Flow Test Procedure
Important All labor operations that include removal of the transmission from the vehicle and require
the transmission oil pan or transmission side cover to be removed include labor time to flush the
transmission oil cooler system.
Refer to SI for Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Flushing and Flow Test J 45096 for the
appropriate procedure.
Important The J 45096 can be used to flush the transmission oil cooler system on an Allison
equipped vehicle, but the flow meter should not be utilized. Refer to SI for Automatic Transmission
Oil Cooler Flushing and Flow Test J 45096 for the appropriate flow check procedure.
Machine Displays
After completion of the flush and flow test, the following information is to be recorded on the repair
order. This information is displayed on the Transmission Cooling System Service Tool, J 45096,
Transflow(R) machine when the dial is in the code position.
- Tested flow rate (displayed in Gallons Per Minute (GPM)
- Temperature (displayed is degrees Fahrenheit)
- Cycle number (a number)
- Seven digit Alpha/Numeric flow code (i.e. A10DFB2)
Warranty Information
Important All labor operations that include removal of the transmission from the vehicle include
labor time to flush the transmission oil cooler system.
Performing a transmission oil cooling system flush and flow test will use between 4.7-7.5 L (5-8 qts)
of DEXRON(R)VI transmission fluid. The amount
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Fluid Oil Cooler Flush > Page 7325
of transmission fluid (ATF), (DEXRON(R)VI) (fluid) that is to be charged for the flush portion of the
repair should not exceed the allowable charge for 7.5 L (2 gal) of fluid. This expense should be
shown in the Parts Section of the warranty claim document.
The Seven digit Alpha/Numeric flow code, i.e. A10DFB2, "MUST" be written on the job card and
placed in the comments section of the warranty claim. Any repair that requires the technician to
contact the Product Quality Center (PQC) must also include the seven digit flow code. The agent
will request the seven digit flow code and add the information to the PQC case prior to providing
authorization for the warranty claim.
The Seven digit Alpha/Numeric flow code, i.e. A10DFB2, "MUST" be written on the job card,
entered in the warranty claim labor operation Flush Code additional field (when available) and
placed in the comments section of the warranty claim. Any repair that requires the technician to
contact the Product Quality Center (PQC) must also include the seven digit flow code. The agent
will request the seven digit flow code and add the information to the PQC case prior to providing
authorization for the warranty claim.
Disclaimer
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A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Fluid Oil Cooler Flush > Page 7326
Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Water Or Coolant Contamination
Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-07-30-035B
Date: November 01, 2010
Subject: Information on Water or Ethylene Glycol in Transmission Fluid
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks with Automatic Transmission
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 08-07-30-035A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Water or ethylene glycol in automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is harmful to internal transmission
components and will have a negative effect on reliability and durability of these parts. Water or
ethylene glycol in ATF will also change the friction of the clutches, frequently resulting in shudder
during engagement or gear changes, especially during torque converter clutch engagement.
Indications of water in the ATF may include:
- ATF blowing out of the transmission vent tube.
- ATF may appear cloudy or, in cases of extreme contamination, have the appearance of a
strawberry milkshake.
- Visible water in the oil pan.
- A milky white substance inside the pan area.
- Spacer plate gaskets that appear to be glued to the valve body face or case.
- Spacer plate gaskets that appear to be swollen or wrinkled in areas where they are not
compressed.
- Rust on internal transmission iron/steel components.
If water in the ATF has been found and the source of the water entry has not been identified, or if a
leaking in-radiator transmission oil cooler is suspected (with no evidence of cross-contamination in
the coolant recovery reservoir), a simple and quick test kit is available that detects the presence of
ethylene glycol in ATF. The "Gly-Tek" test kit, available from the Nelco Company, should be
obtained and the ATF tested to make an accurate decision on the need for radiator replacement.
This can help to prevent customer comebacks if the in-radiator transmission oil cooler is leaking
and reduce repair expenses by avoiding radiator replacement if the cooler is not leaking. These
test kits can be obtained from:
Nelco Company
Test kits can be ordered by phone or through the website listed above. Orders are shipped
standard delivery time but can be shipped on a next day delivery basis for an extra charge. One
test kit will complete 10 individual fluid sample tests. For vehicles repaired under warranty, the cost
of the complete test kit plus shipping charges should be divided by 10 and submitted on the
warranty claim as a net item.
The transmission should be repaired or replaced based on the normal cost comparison procedure.
Important If water or coolant is found in the transmission, the following components MUST be
replaced.
- Replace all of the rubber-type seals.
- Replace all of the composition-faced clutch plates and/or bands.
- Replace all of the nylon parts.
- Replace the torque converter.
- Thoroughly clean and rebuild the transmission, using new gaskets and oil filter.
Important The following steps must be completed when repairing or replacing.
Flush and flow check the transmission oil cooler using J 45096. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
02-07-30-052F- Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Flush and Flow Test Essential Tool J 45096
TransFlow.
- Thoroughly inspect the engine cooling system and hoses and clean/repair as necessary.
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A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Fluid Oil Cooler Flush > Page 7327
Disclaimer
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A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Fluid Oil Cooler Flush > Page 7328
Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Oil Cooler Flushing Frequently Asked
Questions
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-027
Date: June, 2003
INFORMATION
Subject: Most Frequently Asked Questions and Answers for J 45096 TransFlow Transmission Oil
Cooling System Flushing Machine
Models: 2004 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks with Automatic
Transmission/Transaxle
2004 and Prior HUMMER H2
This bulletin is issued to help answer the most frequently asked questions and concerns about
essential tool J 45096.
Q: Why doesn't the machine work below 18°C (65°F)?
A: The flow characteristics of ATF at temperatures below 18°C (65°F) does not provide accurate
flow test results with the electronics used in the J
45096.
Q: Why didn't the unit come with a tank heater?
A: The vast majority of dealerships do not require a heater to keep the ATF above 18°C (65°F). As
a result, the heater was deleted as a cost-savings
measure. A tank heater, J 45096-10, is currently available from Kent-Moore if your dealership
requires it. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-002A for suggestions on warming the ATF
without using a heater blanket.
Q: Why does the machine fail new oil coolers?
A: Several reasons have been found. The most likely reason is the air pressure at the air hose
connected to the J 45096 is less than 586 kPa (85 psi).
Other reasons include a twisted hose inside the J 45096 at the bulkhead as a result of the nut
turning when the waste or supply hose was installed, the internal pressure regulator was
improperly set at the factory or a problem with the cooler lines on the vehicle. Perform the J 45096
self-test as described on pages 9 and 10 of the Operation Manual. If a problem is still detected,
refer to Troubleshooting on page 19 of the Operation Manual. If a problem still persists, contact
Kent-Moore Customer Service at 1-800-345-2233.
Q: What is the difference between steel and aluminum oil coolers?
A: The aluminum oil cooler tube is slightly thinner in construction than the steel oil cooler tube,
which affects the oil flow rate. The fitting that is
protruding out of the radiator tank easily identifies the aluminum oil cooler. Refer to the Quick
Reference card provided with the J 45096 in order to identify the proper flow rate for the aluminum
oil cooler.
Q: Why can't I use TransFlow for Allison transmission cooling Systems?
A: Validation of TransFlow is currently under development for light duty trucks equipped with the
Allison automatic transmission. TransFlow is based
on the existing MINIMUM flow rate specification through the transmission oil cooling system. The
Allison transmission oil cooling system only has MAXIMUM oil flow rates specified and J 45096
does not have the capability to test the transmission oil cooling system at the maximum oil flow rate
specification.
Q: Why doesn't GM publish a specification for auxiliary transmission oil coolers?
A: The auxiliary oil cooler used with GM vehicles does not contain an internal turbulator plate like
the radiator tank oil cooler does. Therefore, there is
no internal restriction that would affect the flow rate through the oil cooling system so a
specification for auxiliary oil cooler is not required. Keep in mind, kinks and damage to the auxiliary
cooler and lines can affect the flow rate through the system.
Q: Why did GM drop the labor time for transmission repairs?
A: The labor for flushing and flow testing the transmission oil cooling system is included with the
R&R; labor of the "K" labor operations that require
transmission removal. The time required to use the J 45096 to perform the flush and flow test is
much less than that of the J 35944-A. The warranty labor savings allowed GM to provide the J
45096 at no cost to dealerships.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Fluid Oil Cooler Flush > Page 7329
Q: Why didn't the machine come with the adapters to hook up to the car?
A: The J 45096 was designed to use the previously released essential cooler line adapters for the J
35944-A. All adapters are listed on page 17 of the
Operation Manual and can be ordered from Kent-Moore at 1-800-345-2233.
Q: How do I connect the J 45096 to a Catera, Prizm or a Vibe?
A: These vehicles, along with many other models, only require barbed fittings to connect to the
rubber cooler hose. These fittings are commercially
available and already found in many shops.
Q: Why didn't I receive an Operation Manual with the machine?
A: The Operation Manual was packaged in the upper portion of the shipping carton. If the shipping
carton was lifted off the base without opening the
top of the carton, the Operation Manual could have been discarded with the carton. Replacement
Operation Manual packages can be obtained from Kent-Moore Customer Service at
1-800-345-2233.
Q: Why can't I re-use the transmission fluid I use for flushing?
A: The very fine metal and clutch material debris from the transmission failure in the ATF causes
failures with the hall effect speed sensors that are used
to measure the flow rate. To avoid costly repairs, expensive filters, regular maintenance and
problems caused by a partially restricted filter, the filter was not included.
Q: What do I do if I need service on my machine?
A: Call Kent-Moore Customer Service at 1-800-345-2233. The J 45096 has a one-year warranty.
Q: Can I flush and flow engine oil coolers?
A: The engine oil cooler flow rates, the appropriate adapters and an acceptable procedure are
currently under development.
Disclaimer
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A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Fluid Oil Cooler Flush > Page 7330
Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Cooler Flush Adapter Tools
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 77-71-68
Date: October, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Cooler Flush Adapter Tools for HYDRA-MATIC 4T40-E Transaxle and 4L60-E
Transmission
Models: 1995-98 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-98 Chevrolet Malibu 1997-98 Oldsmobile Cutlass
1995-98 Pontiac Sunfire with HYDRA-MATIC 4T40-E Transaxle (RPO MN4) and with 2.2L, 2.4L or
3.1 L Engine (VINs 4, T, M - RPOs LN2, LD9, L82)
1998 Chevrolet Camaro 1998 Oldsmobile Bravada 1998 Pontiac Firebird
1996-98 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models 1998 Chevrolet and GMC M/L, S/T Models with
HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E Transmission (RPO M30) and with 2.2L, 3.8L, 4.3L, 5.0L or 5.7L Engine
(VINs 4, G, K, W, X, M, R - RPOs LN2, LS1, L36, L35, LF6, L30, L31, L05)
This bulletin contains information regarding new service tools which are now available from
Kent-Moore. These tools will aid in oil cooler flushing and flow checking procedures.
4T40-E (Figure 1)
A new cooler flush adapter tool J 35944-440 is available from Kent-Moore to aid in attaching the
4T40-E cooler lines to the existing Kent-Moore cooler flushing tool J 35944-A.
A new cooler flow adapter tool J 42776 is available from Kent-Moore to aid in capturing return oil
from the radiator during oil flow checking procedures. Disconnect the return cooler line at the
radiator and install the cooler flow adapter tool J 42776 to the radiator to aid in capturing the
transmission oil.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Fluid Oil Cooler Flush > Page 7331
4L60-E (Figure 2)
A new cooler flush adapter tool J 35944-200 is available from Kent-Moore to aid in attaching the
4L60-E quick connect cooler lines to the existing Kent-Moore cooler flushing tool J 35944-A.
Cooler Flushing
The transmission oil cooler must be flushed whenever a transmission is removed from the vehicle
for service or if fluid contamination is suspected. Use the Kent-Moore tool J 35944-A and solvent J
35944-22 to flush the cooler. Instructions for using the cooler flushing tool and performing fluid flow
check may be found in the On-Vehicle Service Section of the service manual or may be found on a
Corporate Service Bulletin 77-71-59.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Mount,
A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > Transaxle Mount (Front or Rear)
Transmission Mount: Service and Repair Transaxle Mount (Front or Rear)
GENERAL INFORMATION
IMPORTANT: When replacing any transaxle mount, the remaining mount through bolts and mount
bracket to cradle nuts need to be loosened, then tightened in the following sequence:
1. Rear mount through bolt. 2. Rear mount bracket to cradle. 3. Front mount bracket to cradle. 4.
Front mount through bolt. 5. Left mount through bolt.
NOTE: This procedure will eliminate engine/transaxle mount preload, which could cause
driveability concerns. Tighten fasteners to manufacturers specifications.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Mount,
A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > Transaxle Mount (Front or Rear) > Page 7336
^ Tool Required: J 28467-360 Engine Support Fixture
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Mount,
A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > Transaxle Mount (Front or Rear) > Page 7337
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Install J 28467-360 Engine Support Fixture. 3. Raise vehicle and
support the vehicle. 4. Transaxle mount assembly bolts. 5. Transaxle mount.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Transaxle mount. 2. Transaxle mount assembly bolts. 3. Lower vehicle. 4. Remove engine
support fixture. 5. Negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Mount,
A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > Transaxle Mount (Front or Rear) > Page 7338
Transmission Mount: Service and Repair Transaxle Mount (Left)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Mount,
A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > Transaxle Mount (Front or Rear) > Page 7339
^ Tool Required: J 28467-360 Engine Support Fixture
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Mount,
A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > Transaxle Mount (Front or Rear) > Page 7340
IMPORTANT: When replacing any transaxle mount, the remaining mount through bolts and mount
bracket to cradle nuts need to be loosened, then tightened in the following sequence:
1. Rear mount through bolt. 2. Rear mount bracket to cradle. 3. Front mount bracket to cradle. 4.
Front mount through bolt. 5. Left mount through bolt.
NOTE: This procedure will eliminate engine/transaxle mount preload, which could cause
driveability concerns. Tighten fasteners to manufacturers specifications.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Install J 28467-360 Engine Support Fixture. 3. Raise vehicle and
support the vehicle. 4. Left front tire and wheel assembly, Refer to Steering And Suspension. 5.
Left front splash shield. 6. Left transaxle mount bolts. 7. Left transaxle mount.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Left transaxle mount. 2. Left transaxle mount bolts. 3. Left front splash shield. 4. Left front tire
and wheel assembly, Refer to Steering And Suspension. 5. Lower vehicle. 6. Remove engine
support fixture. 7. Negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Mount,
A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > Transaxle Mount (Front or Rear) > Page 7341
Transmission Mount: Service and Repair Transaxle Brace
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Raise vehicle and support the vehicle. 3. Right front tire and wheel
assembly. 4. Right front splash shield. 5. Transaxle brace bolts. 6. Transaxle brace.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Transaxle brace. 2. Transaxle brace to engine bolts. 3. Transaxle brace to transaxle bolts. 4.
Right front splash shield. 5. Right front tire and wheel assembly, Refer to Steering And Suspension.
6. Lower vehicle. 7. Negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov >
03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov >
03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7350
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov >
03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7351
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7357
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7358
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Transmission
Position Switch/Sensor: > 83-17-04 > Oct > 98 > Door Handles - On White Painted Vehicles Turning Yellow
Rear Door Exterior Handle: All Technical Service Bulletins Door Handles - On White Painted
Vehicles Turning Yellow
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 83-17-04
Date: October 1998
Subject: Door Handles on White Painted Vehicles Turning Yellow (Replace Lock Cylinder and Door
Handle)
Models: 1992-98 Buick Skylark 1995-99 Buick Riviera 1997-99 Buick Century, Regal 1992-99
Cadillac Eldorado, Seville 1994-99 Cadillac DeVille 1997-99 Chevrolet Corvette, Malibu 1991-96
Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1992-98 Oldsmobile Achieva 1992-99 Oldsmobile Eighty Eight, LSS,
Regency 1995-99 Oldsmobile Aurora 1997-99 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1998-99 Oldsmobile Intrigue
1999 Oldsmobile Alero 1992-99 Pontiac Bonneville, Grand Am 1997-99 Pontiac Grand Prix
1997-99 Chevrolet Venture 1997-99 Oldsmobile Silhouette 1997-99 Pontiac Trans Sport
Condition
Some customers may comment that the white paint around the door handle is turning yellow.
Cause
The grease that is used to lubricate the tumblers in the lock cylinder may migrate out of the cylinder
and stain the paint.
Correction
Replace the lock cylinder and door handle. New lock cylinder kits have been released. The new
kits have a black tube of grease in them which should be used on white vehicles. The old kits have
either a clear tube or white tube of grease that can be used on any vehicle EXCEPT white painted
vehicles.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7369
Valid Input Combinations
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > C1
Transaxle Range Switch: C1
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 7372
Transaxle Range Switch: C2
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 7373
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Description and Operation
Valid Input Combinations
DESCRIPTION
The Transaxle Range Switch is part of the Transaxle Park/Neutral Position (PNP) switch mounted
on the transaxle manual shaft. The 4 inputs from the transaxle range switch indicate to the PCM
which position is selected by the Transaxle selector lever. This information is used for transmission
shift control, ignition timing, EVAP canister purge, EGR and Idle Air Control (IAC) valve operation.
The combination of the four transaxle range input states determine the PCM commanded shift
pattern.
The input voltage level at the PCM is high (B+) when the transaxle range switch is open and low
when the switch is closed to ground. The state of each input is represented on the scan tool as
X=high voltage level, O=low voltage level. The four parameters represent transaxle range switch
Parity, A, B, and C inputs respectively.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 7374
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 7375
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 7376
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift linkage. 3. Electrical connector. 4. Mounting bolts. 5. Switch
assembly.
REPLACEMENT - USING OLD SWITCH
Install Or Connect 1. Place shift shaft in NEUTRAL. 2. Align flats of shift shaft with switch. 3.
Mounting bolts, loosely. 4. Insert J 41545 and rotate switch until tool drops into position.
Tighten Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Remove Or Disconnect 1. J 41545.
IMPORTANT: After switch adjustment, verify that engine will only start in PARK or NEUTRAL. If engine will start
in any other position, readjust switch.
REPLACEMENT - USING NEW SWITCH
Install Or Connect 1. Place shift shaft in NEUTRAL. 2. Align flats of shift shaft to flats in switch and
install switch assembly. 3. Mounting bolts. 4. Insert tool J 41545 and rotate switch until tool drops
into position.
Tighten Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Important: After switch installation verify that engine will only start in PARK or NEUTRAL. If engine will start in
any other position, readjust switch using Replacement - Using Old Switch procedure.
Adjust 1. Place transaxle control shifter assembly in the NEUTRAL notch in detent plate. 2. Loosen
switch attaching bolts. 3. Rotate switch on shifter assembly to align J 41545.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 7377
Tighten Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
4. Remove J 41545.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission
Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission
Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
7382
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission
Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
7383
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission
Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
7384
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission
Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
7385
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission
Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
7386
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission
Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
7387
Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
7405
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
7407
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
7408
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
7409
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
7410
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
7411
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
7412
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 7414
Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Description and Operation
Description
Description
The Transaxle Fluid Temperature (TFT) sensor is a thermistor which changes value based on the
temperature of the transaxle fluid. A high transaxle fluid temperature may cause the vehicle to
operate in "Hot Mode." While in "Hot Mode," shift points may be altered, 4th gear disabled, and
Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) forced ON in 2nd gear.
A failure in the TFT sensor or associated wiring should cause DTC P0712 or P0713 to set. In this
case, engine coolant temperature will be substituted for the TFT sensor value, and the transaxle
will operate normally. Refer to Automatic Transmission/Transaxle Diagnosis for a complete
description of the TFT sensor.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 07-07-30-025 > Oct > 07 > A/T - DTC's
P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811
Valve Body: Customer Interest A/T - DTC's P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811
Bulletin No.: 07-07-30-025
Date: October 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Information On 4T40-E (MN4) and 4T45-E (MN5) Front Wheel Drive Automatic
Transmission Valve Body Reconditioning, DTC P0741, P0742, P0751, P0752, P0756, P0757,
P1811, Harsh Shifts, Slips, No Drive, No Reverse
Models: 1997-2005 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2007 Chevrolet Malibu 2005-2007 Chevrolet Cobalt
2006-2007 Chevrolet Malibu Maxx, HHR 1997-1998 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999-2004 Oldsmobile
Alero 1997-2005 Pontiac Sunfire 1999-2005 Pontiac Grand Am 2005-2006 Pontiac Pursuit
(Canada Only) 2005-2007 Pontiac G6 2007 Pontiac GS 2000-2005 Saturn L-Series 2005-2007
Saturn ION, VUE 2007 Saturn Aura
with Hydra-Matic(R) 4T40-E (RPO MN4) and 4T45-E (RPO MN5) Automatic Transmission
The following new service information outlined in this bulletin will aid technicians in providing easy
to follow valve body reconditioning instructions and new illustrations to simplify reassembly of the
valve body. The service bulletin will also provide additional service information documents that are
related to the 4L6x transmission family.
Related Service Documents
PIP 3253B - No Move Drive or Reverse
02-07-30-039F - Firm Transmission Shifts
02-07-30-050 - Engineering Change Valve Body
If valve body cleaning is not required, Do Not disassembly bores unless it is necessary to verify
movement of valves.
Inspection Procedure
Using the exploded views in this bulletin, inspect each bore for freedom of valve(s) movement and
evidence of debris. Pay particular attention to those valves related to the customer's concern.
Verify movement of the valves in their normal installed position. Valves may become restricted
during removal or installation. This is normal due to small tolerances between the valves and
bores.
If a valve is restricted and cannot be corrected by cleaning valve and bore, then replace valve
body. Describe restricted valve on repair order.
Be sure all solenoids are installed with the electrical connectors facing the non-machined (cast)
side of the valve body; otherwise, the solenoids will bind against the transmission case as the valve
body bolts are tightened and damage may occur.
Disassembly/Reassembly
If a valve is restricted by a metal burr from machining that bore, remove valve and burr, then
inspect movement in the valve's normal position. If no other debris or restrictions are found, then
reassemble valve body and install in the transmission.
If the valve body has been contaminated with debris from another transmission component failure,
then disassemble all bores for complete cleaning of all valve body components. If possible keep
individual bore parts separated for ease of reassembly. Use the following illustrations in this bulletin
for a
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 07-07-30-025 > Oct > 07 > A/T - DTC's
P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811 > Page 7423
positive identification and location of individual parts:
Valve Body Spring and Bore Plug Chart (Metric)
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 07-07-30-025 > Oct > 07 > A/T - DTC's
P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811 > Page 7424
Valve Body Spring and Bore Plug Chart (Inch)
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 07-07-30-025 > Oct > 07 > A/T - DTC's
P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811 > Page 7425
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 07-07-30-025 > Oct > 07 > A/T - DTC's
P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811 > Page 7426
Left Side Control Valve Body Assembly
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 07-07-30-025 > Oct > 07 > A/T - DTC's
P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811 > Page 7427
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 07-07-30-025 > Oct > 07 > A/T - DTC's
P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811 > Page 7428
Right Side Control Valve Body Assembly
Control Valve Body Assembly Chart, Valve Springs and Bore Plugs
Using GM Brake Clean, or equivalent, in a safe and clean environment (clean aluminum pan) clean
the valve body and dry it with compressed air. Use appropriate eye protection.
Clean individual valve body components with GM Brake Clean, or equivalent. Coat each valve with
clean ATF and reassemble in each bore. Check each valve for free movement during assembly of
each bore.
Disclaimer
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 01-07-30-036H > Jan > 09 > A/T
Control - DTC P0756 Diagnostic Tips
Valve Body: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T Control - DTC P0756 Diagnostic Tips
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-036H
Date: January 29, 2009
Subject: Diagnostic Tips for Automatic Transmission DTC P0756, Second, Third, Fourth Gear Start
Models: 2009 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2009 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
with 4L60-E, 4L65-E or 4L70E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30, M32 or M70)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2009 model year and add details regarding spacer plates.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-036G (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Some dealership technicians may have difficulty diagnosing DTC P0756, 2-3 Shift Valve
Performance on 4L60-E, 4L65-E or 4L70E automatic transmissions. As detailed in the Service
Manual, when the PCM detects a 4-3-3-4 shift pattern, DTC P0756 will set. Some customers may
also describe a condition of a second, third or fourth gear start that may have the same causes but
has not set this DTC yet. Below are some tips when diagnosing this DTC:
^ This is a performance code. This means that a mechanical malfunction exists.
^ This code is not set by electrical issues such as a damaged wiring harness or poor electrical
connections. Electrical problems would cause a DTC P0758, P0787 or P0788 to set.
^ The most likely cause is chips/debris plugging the filtered AFL oil at orifice # 29 on the top of the
spacer plate (48). This is a very small hole and is easily plugged by a small amount of debris. It is
important to remove the spacer plate and inspect orifice # 29 and the immediate area for the
presence of chips/debris. Also, the transmission case passage directly above this orifice and the
valve body passage directly below should be inspected and cleaned of any chips/debris. For 2003
and newer vehicles the spacer plate should be replaced. The service replacement spacer plate is a
bonded style with gaskets and solenoid filter screens bonded to the spacer plate. These screens
can help to prevent plugging of orifice # 29 caused by small debris or chips.
^ This code could be set if the 2-3 shift valve (368) were stuck or hung-up in its bore. Inspect the
2-3 shift valve (368) and the 2-3 shuttle valve (369) for free movement or damage and clean the
valves, the bore and the valve body passages.
^ This code could be set by a 2-3 shift solenoid (367b) if it were cracked, broken or leaking. Refer
to Shift Solenoid Leak Test in the appropriate Service Manual for the leak test procedure. Based on
parts return findings, a damaged or leaking shift solenoid is the least likely cause of this condition.
Simply replacing a shift solenoid will not correct this condition unless the solenoid has been found
to be cracked, broken or leaking.
It is important to also refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Service Information (SI) for further
possible causes of this condition.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 07-07-30-025 > Oct > 07 > A/T DTC's P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811
Valve Body: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - DTC's P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811
Bulletin No.: 07-07-30-025
Date: October 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Information On 4T40-E (MN4) and 4T45-E (MN5) Front Wheel Drive Automatic
Transmission Valve Body Reconditioning, DTC P0741, P0742, P0751, P0752, P0756, P0757,
P1811, Harsh Shifts, Slips, No Drive, No Reverse
Models: 1997-2005 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2007 Chevrolet Malibu 2005-2007 Chevrolet Cobalt
2006-2007 Chevrolet Malibu Maxx, HHR 1997-1998 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999-2004 Oldsmobile
Alero 1997-2005 Pontiac Sunfire 1999-2005 Pontiac Grand Am 2005-2006 Pontiac Pursuit
(Canada Only) 2005-2007 Pontiac G6 2007 Pontiac GS 2000-2005 Saturn L-Series 2005-2007
Saturn ION, VUE 2007 Saturn Aura
with Hydra-Matic(R) 4T40-E (RPO MN4) and 4T45-E (RPO MN5) Automatic Transmission
The following new service information outlined in this bulletin will aid technicians in providing easy
to follow valve body reconditioning instructions and new illustrations to simplify reassembly of the
valve body. The service bulletin will also provide additional service information documents that are
related to the 4L6x transmission family.
Related Service Documents
PIP 3253B - No Move Drive or Reverse
02-07-30-039F - Firm Transmission Shifts
02-07-30-050 - Engineering Change Valve Body
If valve body cleaning is not required, Do Not disassembly bores unless it is necessary to verify
movement of valves.
Inspection Procedure
Using the exploded views in this bulletin, inspect each bore for freedom of valve(s) movement and
evidence of debris. Pay particular attention to those valves related to the customer's concern.
Verify movement of the valves in their normal installed position. Valves may become restricted
during removal or installation. This is normal due to small tolerances between the valves and
bores.
If a valve is restricted and cannot be corrected by cleaning valve and bore, then replace valve
body. Describe restricted valve on repair order.
Be sure all solenoids are installed with the electrical connectors facing the non-machined (cast)
side of the valve body; otherwise, the solenoids will bind against the transmission case as the valve
body bolts are tightened and damage may occur.
Disassembly/Reassembly
If a valve is restricted by a metal burr from machining that bore, remove valve and burr, then
inspect movement in the valve's normal position. If no other debris or restrictions are found, then
reassemble valve body and install in the transmission.
If the valve body has been contaminated with debris from another transmission component failure,
then disassemble all bores for complete cleaning of all valve body components. If possible keep
individual bore parts separated for ease of reassembly. Use the following illustrations in this bulletin
for a
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 07-07-30-025 > Oct > 07 > A/T DTC's P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811 > Page 7438
positive identification and location of individual parts:
Valve Body Spring and Bore Plug Chart (Metric)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 07-07-30-025 > Oct > 07 > A/T DTC's P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811 > Page 7439
Valve Body Spring and Bore Plug Chart (Inch)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 07-07-30-025 > Oct > 07 > A/T DTC's P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811 > Page 7440
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 07-07-30-025 > Oct > 07 > A/T DTC's P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811 > Page 7441
Left Side Control Valve Body Assembly
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 07-07-30-025 > Oct > 07 > A/T DTC's P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811 > Page 7442
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 07-07-30-025 > Oct > 07 > A/T DTC's P0741/P0751/P0752/P0756/P0757/P1811 > Page 7443
Right Side Control Valve Body Assembly
Control Valve Body Assembly Chart, Valve Springs and Bore Plugs
Using GM Brake Clean, or equivalent, in a safe and clean environment (clean aluminum pan) clean
the valve body and dry it with compressed air. Use appropriate eye protection.
Clean individual valve body components with GM Brake Clean, or equivalent. Coat each valve with
clean ATF and reassemble in each bore. Check each valve for free movement during assembly of
each bore.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Valve Body: > 01-08-50-009 > Aug >
01 > Passenger Front Seat - Rattles When Unoccupied
Seat Track: All Technical Service Bulletins Passenger Front Seat - Rattles When Unoccupied
File In Section: 08 Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 01-08-50-009
Date: August, 2001
TECHNICAL
Subject: Passenger Front-Seat Rattles When Unoccupied (Reposition Rear of Seat Track Adjuster
on Floor)
Models: 1997-2001 Chevrolet Malibu 1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass
Condition
Some owners may comment that the passenger right front seat rattles when unoccupied. This
condition may be most noticeable when the seat track is positioned in the middle of its
forward/rearward travel.
Correction
Loosen the bolts that attach the rear of the seat track to the floor and spread the rear of the inboard
and outboard tracks as far apart as possible. While in this spread apart position, tighten the
attaching bolts to 40 N.m (30 lb ft).
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Locations > 4T40-E (MN4) Automatic Transaxle
Valve Body: Locations 4T40-E (MN4) Automatic Transaxle
Part 1 Of 2
Part 2 Of 2
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Locations > 4T40-E (MN4) Automatic Transaxle > Page 7456
Valve Body: Locations 4T60-E (M13) Automatic Transaxle
Part 1 Of 2
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Locations > 4T40-E (MN4) Automatic Transaxle > Page 7457
Part 2 Of 2
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Locations > 4T40-E (MN4) Automatic Transaxle > Page 7458
Part 1 Of 2
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Locations > 4T40-E (MN4) Automatic Transaxle > Page 7459
Part 2 Of 2
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Hydraulic System > System Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > M/T - Hydraulic Clutch Bleeding Procedure Improvement
Clutch Hydraulic System: Technical Service Bulletins M/T - Hydraulic Clutch Bleeding Procedure
Improvement
Bulletin No.: 01-07-31-002B
Date: November 01, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Improved Bleeding Procedure for Hydraulic Clutch Release System
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn) 2007 and
Prior Chevrolet and GMC 6-7F T-Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab Models 2007 and Prior Isuzu
F-Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab Models 2006-2007 HUMMER H3
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
01-07-31-002A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle). This bulletin is being issued to inform
dealers of an improved procedure to aid in the ease of bleeding the clutch hydraulic system for the
above listed vehicles. This procedure can be used anytime air is introduced into the hydraulic
system. Following this procedure may also reduce the number of unnecessary parts replaced for
low clutch pedal reserve and high shift effort.
Verify that all the lines and fittings are dry and secure.
Clean the dirt and grease from the reservoir cap in order to ensure that no foreign substances enter
the system.
Remove the reservoir cap.
Fill the reservoir to the proper level with the required fluid.
Attach the J 43485 (Adapter) to the J 35555 (Mity Vac), or equivalent.
Brake fluid will deteriorate the rubber on J 43485. Use a clean shop cloth to wipe away the fluid
after each use.
Place and hold the adapter on the reservoir filler neck to ensure a tight fit. In some cases, the
adapter will fit into the reservoir opening.
Apply a vacuum of 51-68 kPa (15-20 hg) and remove the adapter.
Refill the reservoir to the proper level.
Repeat Steps 6 and 7.
If needed, refill the reservoir and continue to pull a vacuum until no more bubbles can be seen in
the reservoir or until the fluid level no longer drops.
The vehicle will move if started in gear before the Actuator Cylinder is refilled and operational. Start
the vehicle the first time in neutral to help prevent personal injury from vehicle movement and see if
the transmission will shift easily into gear.
Pump the clutch pedal until firm (to refill actuator cylinder).
Add additional fluid if needed.
Test drive vehicle to ensure proper operation.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Shift Lock Control Feature Function
Shift Interlock: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Lock Control Feature Function
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-043A
Date: May 25, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Information Regarding Automatic Transmission Shift Lock Control Function
Models: 2007 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2007 and Prior HUMMER
H2, H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
with Automatic Transmission
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 03-07-30-043 (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle). This bulletin is being issued to better
explain how the Automatic Transmission Shift Lock Control (formerly known as Brake Transmission
Shift Interlock (BTSI)) feature is intended to operate. Revised wording regarding the shift lock
control system began appearing in the Owner Manuals beginning with the 2004 model year.
The shift lock control feature was intended to prevent drivers from shifting out of Park with the
vehicle running without the brakes applied. However, if the ignition switch is in the Accessory
(ACC) position, it may be possible on some vehicles to move the shift lever out of Park WITHOUT
first activating the brake.
The shift lock control system is ONLY active when the ignition switch is in the RUN or ON position.
This means that when the ignition switch is in the RUN or ON position, the shift lever cannot be
moved out of the Park position without activating the brake.
Some owners may feel that the shift lock control system prevents an unattended child from moving
the vehicle. Please stress to owners, as stated in the Owner Manual, that children should NEVER
be left unattended in a vehicle, even if the ignition key has been removed from the vehicle.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Drivetrain - Revised Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement
Axle Shaft Assembly: Technical Service Bulletins Drivetrain - Revised Wheel Drive Shaft
Replacement
File In Section: 04 - Driveline Axle
Bulletin No.: 03-04-18-002
Date: March, 2003
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Revised Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement and Fastener Tightening Specifications
Models: 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero 1999-2003 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin is being issued to revise the Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement procedure and the
Fastener Tightening Specifications in the Front Wheel Drive Shafts sub-section of the Service
Manual. Please replace the current information in the Service Manual with the following
information.
The following information has been updated within SI. If you are using a paper version of this
Service Manual, please make a reference to this bulletin on the affected page.
A new solid drive axle nut, P/N 10289657, was installed on vehicles after the start of production. It
was a different torque specification from the first design axle nut, P/N 22652364.
Vehicles beginning with VIN breakpoints 3M666352 and 3C261481 will be equipped with the new
axle nut.
Important:
Some vehicles built prior to the above-listed VIN breakpoints will be equipped with this new nut due
to the trail production run.
The first design nut is a Pac-style nut that is painted black. The second design is a Solid-style nut
that is gray.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Specifications > On-Vehicle Service
Axle Shaft Assembly: Specifications On-Vehicle Service
Ball Joint To Steering Knuckle Nut [1]:
First ......................................................................................................................................................
............................................. 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.) Second .................................................................
........................................................................................................................................... Rotate
180°
Service Manual Update #73-32-03A
Drive Axle Nut (New)
........................................................................................................................................... 385 Nm
(284 ft lb) +/- 5 Nm (44 in lb)
Tie Rod To Knuckle Nut ......................................................................................................................
....................................................... 20 Nm (15 ft lb)
[1] Tighten in two steps.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Specifications > On-Vehicle Service > Page 7477
Axle Shaft Assembly: Specifications Unit Repair
Ball Diameters
Chrome Alloy Balls ..............................................................................................................................
.............................................................. 18.2563 mm
Fastener Tightening Specifications
Outer Joint Seal:
Small Joint Seal Clamp .......................................................................................................................
................................................. 136 Nm (100 ft lb) Large Joint Seal Clamp .......................................
................................................................................................................................. 176 Nm (130 ft
lb)
Inner Tripot/Free-Motion Seal:
Small Joint Seal Clamp .......................................................................................................................
................................................. 136 Nm (100 ft lb)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 7478
Axle Shaft Assembly: Diagrams
Part 1 Of 2
Part 2 Of 2
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 7479
Axle Shaft Assembly: Service Precautions
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and the joint clamping
force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening
sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and
systems.
NOTICE: Handle drive axles with care when they are removed from the vehicle. Allowing the
inboard joint to over-extend can cause separation of internal components and joint failure.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 7480
Axle Shaft Assembly: Testing and Inspection
CLICKING NOISE IN TURNS
- Worn or damaged outboard joint.
CLUNK WHEN ACCELERATING FROM COAST TO DRIVE
- Worn or damaged joint.
SHUDDER OR VIBRATION DURING ACCELERATION
1. Excessive joint angle.
a. Excessive toe. Refer to TOE IN WHEEL ALIGNMENT. b. Incorrect trim height. Refer to TRIM
HEIGHT IN STEERING, SUSPENSION, TIRE AND WHEELS DIAGNOSIS.
2. Worn or damaged inboard or outboard joints. 3. Sticking spider assembly (Tri-Pot). 4. Refer to
STEERING AND SUSPENSION ASSEMBLY VIBRATIONS in VIBRATION DIAGNOSIS AND
CORRECTION for Vibration
diagnosis.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4T40-E
Axle Shaft Assembly: Service and Repair 4T40-E
Stub Axle Shaft and Right Hand Axle Oil Seal
Stub Axle Shaft and Right Hand Axle Oil Seal
^ Tools Required: J 38868 Stub Shaft Sleeve Remover
- J 6125 Slide Hammer
- J 23129 Seal Removal Tool
- J 41102 Axle Seal Installer
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle and support the vehicle. 2. Drive axle assembly. Refer to DRIVE AXLE. 3. Snap
ring from stub axle shaft Discard snap ring - it is not reusable. 4. Pull lightly on the shaft and rotate
it until the output shaft snap ring at the differential seats in the taper on the differential side gear. 5.
Stub shaft from transaxle using slide hammer J 6125 and shaft removal tool J 38868. 6. Right hand
axle seal from transaxle using seal removal tool J 23129 and slide hammer J 6125 or a screw
driver.
- Do not damage seal bore or sleeve assembly or fluid leaks may result.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. New seal using J 41102. Lubricate seal lip with a light wipe of transmission oil. 2. Two new snap
rings on the stub shaft.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4T40-E > Page 7483
IMPORTANT: Carefully guide axle shaft past lip seal. Do not allow shaft splines to contact any
portion of the seal lip surface, otherwise damage to the seal will occur.
3. Stub shaft into transaxle using a mallet. 4. Drive Axle. 5. Lower vehicle.
Inspect
- For leaks.
- Oil level, refer to TRANSAXLE OIL LEVEL CHECKING PROCEDURE.
Stub Axle Shaft Sleeve
^ Tools Required: J 38868 Stub Shaft Sleeve Remover
- J 6125 Slide Hammer
- J 41228 Stub Shaft Sleeve Installer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4T40-E > Page 7484
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle and support the vehicle. 2. Drive axle assembly. Refer to Drive Axle. 3. Stub shaft
assembly from transaxle, refer to AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE. 4. Sleeve from stub shaft using
puller J 38868.
Inspect
- Inspect the sleeve for excessive wear, scratches or nicks that may cause a leak or damage to the
seal portion. If sleeve appears damaged, it must be replaced.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. New sleeve on stub shaft using J 4128. Sleeve installation tool must be installed on shaft such
that the collar is located in the snap ring groove. 2. Two new snap rings on the stub shaft. 3. Stub
shaft into transaxle assembly. 4. Drive axle assembly, refer to Drive Axle. 5. Lower vehicle.
Inspect
- For leaks.
- Oil level.
Output Axle Shaft Sleeve
^ Tools Required: J 41227 Stub Shaft Sleeve Remover
- J 41228 Stub Shaft Sleeve Installer
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle and support the vehicle. 2. Drive axle assembly. 3. Transaxle side cover
assembly, refer to AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE. 4. Sleeve from output shaft using puller J 41227.
Inspect
Inspect the sleeve for excessive wear, scratches or nicks that may cause a leak or damage to the
seal portion. If sleeve appears damaged, it must be replaced.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. New sleeve on output shaft using J 41228. Sleeve installation tool must be installed on shaft
such that the collar is located in the snap ring groove. 2. Two new snap rings on the output shaft 3.
Install seal protector into side cover to prevent the seal from rolling. 4. Transaxle side cover
assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4T40-E > Page 7485
5. Drive axle assembly. 6. Lower vehicle.
Inspect
- For leaks.
- Oil level, refer to TRANSAXLE OIL LEVEL CHECKING PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4T40-E > Page 7486
Axle Shaft Assembly: Service and Repair On-Vehicle Service
FRONT DRIVE AXLE
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4T40-E > Page 7487
NOTICE: Care must be exercised to prevent the constant-velocity joints from being over extended.
Lien either end of the drive axle is disconnected, over extension of the joint could result in
separation of internal components and possible joint failure. Drive axle joints and seals should be
protected any time service is performed on or near the drive axles. Failure to observe this can
result in interior joint or seal damage and possible joint failure.
NOTICE: Prior to removal of drive axle assembly, cover all sharp edges in the area of the drive
axle with shop towels so that the seal is not damaged during removal.
^ Tools Required: J 38892 Ball Joint Separator
- J 28733-A Front Hub Spindle Remover
- J 29794 Axle Shaft Removal Extension
- J 2619-01 Slide Hammer
- J 28468 Axle Shaft Remover or
- J 33008 Axle Shaft Remover
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4T40-E > Page 7488
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle and suitably support. 2. Tire and wheel assembly. 3. Disconnect tie rod from
knuckle. 4. Install shop towels underneath the outer joint to protect from any sharp edges. 5. Insert
drift punch or non-ferrous drift punch into caliper and rotor to prevent the rotor from turning. 6. Drive
axle nut and washer. 7. Lower ball joint cotter pin and nut and loosen joint using J 38892. If
removing right axle, turn wheel to the left. If removing left axle, turn wheel to
the right.
NOTICE: Use only the recommended tools for separating the ball joint from knuckle. Failure to use
recommended tools may cause damage to the ball joint and seal.
8. Disconnect stabilizer link. 9. Separate joint by using J 38892.
10. Disengage axle from hub and bearing using J 28733-A. 11. Separate hub and bearing
assembly from drive axle. Move strut and knuckle assembly rearward.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4T40-E > Page 7489
NOTICE: Prior to installation of drive axle assembly, cover all sharp edges in the area of the drive
axle with shop towels so that the seal is not damaged during installation.
Inspect
- With removal of front halfshaft for any reason, the transmission (the halfshaft male and female
shank) and knuckle sealing surfaces should be inspected for debris or corrosion.
Clean
- If debris or corrosion is present on the sealing surfaces clean with 320 grit cloth or equivalent.
Transmission fluid may be used to clean off any remaining debris. The surface should be wiped dry
and the halfshaft reinstalled free of any debris or corrosion buildup.
1. Drive axle into transaxle by placing a non-ferrous drift punch into the groove on the joint housing
and tapping until seated. Be careful not to
damage axle seal or dislodge seal garter spring when installing axle.
IMPORTANT: Verify that drive axle is seated by grasping on the inner joint housing and pulling outboard.
2. Tie rod to knuckle.
Tighten Tie rod to knuckle nut 20 Nm (15 ft lb) plus 90° Rotation.
3. Drive axle into hub and bearing assembly. 4. Lower ball joint to knuckle.
Tighten Ball joint to steering knuckle nut 10 Nm (89 in lb) plus 180° Rotation tightening specification to
install cotter pin.
- Do not loosen nut at any time during installation.
5. Cotter pin. 6. Washer and new drive axle nut. 7. Insert drift punch or screwdriver into caliper and
rotor to prevent the rotor from turning.
IMPORTANT: Use torque wrench to tighten drive axle nut to specification.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4T40-E > Page 7490
Service Manual Update #73-32-03A Tighten Drive Axle Nut (New) to 385 Nm (284 ft lb) +/- 5 Nm (44 in lb).
8. Tire and wheel assembly. 9. Lower vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4T40-E > Page 7491
Axle Shaft Assembly: Service and Repair Unit Repair
Outer C/V Joint and Seal Assembly
Part 1 Of 2
Part 2 Of 2
^ Tools Required: J 8059 Snap Ring Pliers
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4T40-E > Page 7492
- J 35910 Seal Clamp Tool
DISASSEMBLE
1. Large seal retaining clamp (16) from C/V joint with side cutter and discard. 2. Small seal
retaining clamp (13) from axle shaft with side cutter and discard. 3. Separate joint seal (15) from
C/V joint race (21) at large diameter and slide seal away from joint along axle shaft (14). 4. Wipe
grease from face of C/V inner race (19).
5. Spread ears on race retaining ring (17) with J 8059 and remove C/V joint assembly from axle
shaft (14). 6. Seal (15) from axle shaft (14).
7. Use a brass drift and a hammer to gently tap on C/V joint cage (20) until it is tilted enough to
remove first chrome alloy ball (18). 8. Tilt cage (20) in opposite direction to remove opposing ball
(18). 9. Repeat this process until all six balls (18) are removed.
10. Position cage (20) and inner race (19) 90° to center line of outer race (21) and align cage
windows with lands of outer race. 11. Cage (20) and inner race (19) from outer race (21).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4T40-E > Page 7493
12. Rotate inner race (19) 90° to centerline of cage (20) with lands of inner race aligned with
windows of cage. 13. Pivot inner race (19) into cage (20) window and remove inner race.
Clean
- Clean inner and outer race assemblies, cage and balls thoroughly with clean solvent. All traces of
old grease and any contaminates must be removed. Dry all parts.
ASSEMBLE
1. New small seal retaining clamp (13) on neck of seal (15). Do not crimp. 2. Slide seal (15) onto
axle shaft (14) and position neck of seal in seal groove on axle shaft (14).
3. Crimp seal retaining clamp (13) with J 35910 to 136 Nm (100 ft lb). 4. Put a light coat of grease
from service kit on ball grooves of inner race (19) and outer race (21). 5. Hold inner race (19) 90° to
centerline of cage (20) with lands of inner race aligned with windows of cage and insert inner race
into cage. 6. Hold cage (20) and inner race (19) 90° to centerline of outer race (21) and align cage
windows with lands of outer race. 7. Cage (20) and inner race (19) into outer race (21).
Important: Be sure that retaining ring side of inner race (19) faces axle shaft (14).
8. Insert first chrome ball (18) then tilt cage (20) in opposite direction to insert opposing ball. 9.
Repeat this process until all six balls (18) are in place.
10. Place approximately half of grease from service kit inside seal (15) and pack C/V joint with
remaining grease.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4T40-E > Page 7494
11. Push C/V joint onto axle shaft (14) until retaining ring (17) is seated in groove on axle shaft
(14). 12. Slide large diameter of seal (15) with large seal retaining clamp (16) in place over outside
of C/V joint race (21) and locate seal lip in groove on
race (21).
Important: Seal (15) must not be dimpled, stretched or out of shape in any way. If seal is not
shaped correctly, equalize pressure in seal (15) and shape seal properly by hand.
13. Crimp seal retaining clamp (16) with J 35910 to 176 Nm (130 ft lb).
Free-Motion Joint and Seal Assembly
^ Tools Required: J 8059 Snap Ring Pliers
- J 35566 Earless Seal Clamp Tool
- J 35910 Seal Clamp Tool
- J 38868-A Stub shaft Removal Tool
- J 6125-1B Impact Slide Hammer
Important: The transaxle stub shaft may disengage from the transaxle during axle tripot removal. If
this condition occurs, transaxle fluid may leak from the transaxle through the stub shaft location.
The following steps need to be taken if the transaxle stub shaft has disengaged into the female
tripot housing on removal from transaxle:
1. Remove the snap ring from the stub shaft and discard.
Important: Always discard the old snap ring. Never reuse.
2. Connect the stub shaft removal tool (J 38868-A) to the snap ring groove on the stub shaft and
connect an impact slide hammer (J 6125-18) to the
stub shaft removal tool.
3. Use the slide hammer to remove the shaft from the tripot housing. 4. Install new snap rings onto
the stub shaft and refer to the transaxle unit repair for the proper installation of the stub shaft into
the transaxle.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Small seal retaining clamp (13) from axle shaft (14) with side cutter and discard.
Important: Do not cut through seal (12) and damage sealing surface outer housing (2) and trilobal
tripot bushing (11).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4T40-E > Page 7495
2. Larger seal retaining clamp (10) from inboard joint with side cutter and discard. 3. Separate seal
(12) from trilobal tripot bushing (11) at large diameter and slide seal away from joint along axle
shaft (14). 4. Housing (2) from spider (4) and shaft (14).
5. Spread spacer ring (9) with J 8059 and slide spacer ring and spider (4) back on axle shaft (14).
6. Shaft retaining ring (3) from groove on axle shaft (14) and slide spider assembly off of shaft.
Clean
- Clean tripot balls (7), needle rollers (8) and housing (2) thoroughly with clean solvent. All traces of
old grease and any contaminates must be removed. Dry all parts.
7. Trilobal tripot bushing (11) from housing (2). 8. Remove spacer ring (9) and seal (12) from axle
shaft (14).
Inspect
- Inspect the following parts for damage or wear: ^
Joint seal (12)
^ Spider (4)
^ Housing (2)
^ Trilobal tripot bushing (11)
^ Tripot balls
^ Needle rollers
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. New small seal retaining clamp (13) on neck of seal (12). Do not crimp. 2. Slide seal (12) onto
shaft (14) and position neck of seal in seal groove on axle shaft (14).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4T40-E > Page 7496
3. Crimp seal retaining clamp (13) with J 35910 to 136 Nm (100 ft lb).
4. Spacer ring (9) on axle shaft (14) and beyond 2nd groove. 5. Slide spider assembly against
spacer ring (9) on shaft (14).
Important: Be sure that counterbored face of spider (4) faces end of shaft (14).
6. Install shaft retaining ring (3) in groove of axle shaft (14) with J 8059. 7. Slide spider (4) towards
end of shaft (14) and reseat spacer ring (9) in groove on shaft. 8. Place approximately half of
grease from service kit in seal (12) and use remainder to repack housing (2). 9. Trilobal tripot
bushing (11) to housing (2).
10. Position new larger clamp (10) on seal (12).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4T40-E > Page 7497
11. Slide housing (2) over spider assembly on shaft (14). 12. Slide large diameter of seal (12), with
larger clamp (10) in place, over outside of trilobal tripot bushing (11) and locate lip of seal in
groove.
13. Position joint assembly at proper vehicle dimension.
Important: Seal (12) must not be dimpled, stretched or out of shape in any way. If seal is not
shaped correctly, carefully insert a thin flat blunt tool (no sharp edges) between large seal opening
and trilobal tripot bushing (11) to equalize pressure. Shape seal properly by hand and remove tool.
14. Latch seal retaining clamp (10) with J 35566.
Important: Make sure that seal (12), housing (2) and large clamp (10) all remain in alignment while
latching.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Tools and Equipment > On-Vehicle Service
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Tools and Equipment > On-Vehicle Service > Page 7500
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Seals and Gaskets, Drive
Axles > System Information > Service and Repair
Seals and Gaskets: Service and Repair
Stub Axle Shaft and Right Hand Axle Oil Seal
^ Tools Required: J 38868 Stub Shaft Sleeve Remover
- J 6125 Slide Hammer
- J 23129 Seal Removal Tool
- J 41102 Axle Seal Installer
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle and support the vehicle. 2. Drive axle assembly. Refer to DRIVE AXLE. 3. Snap
ring from stub axle shaft Discard snap ring - it is not reusable. 4. Pull lightly on the shaft and rotate
it until the output shaft snap ring at the differential seats in the taper on the differential side gear. 5.
Stub shaft from transaxle using slide hammer J 6125 and shaft removal tool J 38868. 6. Right hand
axle seal from transaxle using seal removal tool J 23129 and slide hammer J 6125 or a screw
driver.
- Do not damage seal bore or sleeve assembly or fluid leaks may result.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. New seal using J 41102. Lubricate seal lip with a light wipe of transmission oil. 2. Two new snap
rings on the stub shaft.
IMPORTANT: Carefully guide axle shaft past lip seal. Do not allow shaft splines to contact any
portion of the seal lip surface, otherwise damage to the seal will occur.
3. Stub shaft into transaxle using a mallet.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Seals and Gaskets, Drive
Axles > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 7504
4. Drive Axle. 5. Lower vehicle.
Inspect
- For leaks.
- Oil level, refer to TRANSAXLE OIL LEVEL CHECKING PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Specifications
Wheel Bearing: Specifications
This vehicle uses a sealed wheel bearing and lubricating grease is not required.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 7508
Wheel Bearing: Description and Operation
A non-serviceable unit hub and bearing is bolted to the knuckle. This hub and bearing is a sealed,
maintenance free unit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
Wheel Bearing: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures > Page 7511
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures > Page 7512
Wheel Bearing: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures > Page 7513
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Front Suspension
FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS AND/OR HUB
^ Tools Required: J 28733-A Front Hub Spindle Remover
- Or Equivalent
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Drive axle. 2. Brake caliper bolts, and support caliper. 3. Brake Rotor. 4. Hub and bearing
assembly. 5. Hub and bearing assembly from steering knuckle. 6. Hub and bearing.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Hub and bearing assembly to steering knuckle. 2. Hub and bearing assembly bolts.
^ Tighten hub and bearing assembly bolts to 95 Nm (70 ft lb).
3. Brake Rotor. 4. Brake caliper and bolts. Refer to Brakes and Traction Control. 5. New hub and
bearing into steering knuckle. 6. Drive axle. 7. Check front wheel alignment.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 7516
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Rear Suspension
REAR WHEEL BEARINGS AND/OR HUB
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle. 2. Wheel and tire assemblies. 3. Brake drum.
NOTICE: Do not hammer on brake drum damage to the assembly could result.
4. Rear ABS wheel speed sensor wire connector. 5. Remove hub and bearing assembly from axle.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Connect rear ABS wheel speed sensor wire connector. 2. Hub and Bearing assembly.
^ Tighten hub and bearing to axle bolts to 95 Nm (70 ft lb).
3. Brake drum. 4. Wheel and tire assembly. 5. Lower vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Drive Axles - Improved Axle Nut Availability
Axle Nut: Technical Service Bulletins Drive Axles - Improved Axle Nut Availability
File In Section: 04 - Driveline Axle
Bulletin No.: 03-04-18-001
Date: February, 2003
INFORMATION
Subject: Availability of New Front Drive Axle Nut
Models: 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero 1999-2003 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin is to inform dealers that a new and improved front drive axle nut has been released for
service of the above listed vehicles.
Use the new nut, P/N 10289657, whenever the front drive axle nut is removed. This new nut is a
torque prevailing nut and is silver in color. The old nut is black in color and has a sheet metal cage
around the nut (shown below). Using the new nut will provide a more consistent clamp load on the
wheel bearing and should help prolong the bearing life.
Notice:
Use the correct tightening specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts
and systems.
Torque
Tighten the new nut to 235 N.m (173 lb ft). The old nut torque was 385 N.m (284 lb ft).
Important:
Some front wheel hub kits may have the old style nut included in the kit. Discard the old nut and
use the new nut, P/N 10289657.
New Style Nut
The nut shown is a torque prevailing nut and is silver colored.
Old Style Nut
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Drive Axles - Improved Axle Nut Availability > Page 7522
The old style nut shown is black and has a sheet metal cage around the nut.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Drive Axles - Improved Axle Nut Availability > Page 7523
Axle Nut: Technical Service Bulletins Steering - Various Revised Tightening Specifications
CHEVROLET 73-32-03A
Issued: 05/01/97
SMU - SECTIONS 3B/3C/4D
REVISION: 04/11/97
THIS BULLETIN IS BEING REVISED TO UPDATE THE DRIVE AXLE NUT TIGHTENING
SPECIFICATIONS FOR THE N CAR. PLEASE DISCARD CORPORATE BULLETIN NUMBER
73-32-03 (SECTION 3 - STEERING/SUSPENSION).
SUBJECT: SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE - SECTIONS 3B/3C/4D - REVISED TIGHTENING
SPECIFICATIONS
MODELS: 1997 CHEVROLET CAVALIER, MALIBU 1997 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS 1997
PONTIAC SUNFIRE
THIS BULLETIN IS BEING ISSUED TO REVISE THE TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS IN
SECTIONS 3B, 3C AND 4D OF THE SERVICE MANUAL AS FOLLOWS:
J CAR
SECTIONS 3B-8, 3B-9, 3C-5 AND 3C-13:
THE CORRECT TIGHTENING SPECIFICATION IS AS FOLLOWS:
- TIE ROD END TO KNUCKLE NUT 20 N.M (15 LB FT) PLUS 90 DEGREE ROTATION.
N CAR
SECTIONS 3C-6 AND 3C-16:
THE CORRECT TIGHTENING SPECIFICATION IS AS FOLLOWS:
- TIE ROD END TO KNUCKLE NUT 20 N.M (15 LB FT) PLUS 180 DEGREE ROTATION.
SECTION 3B-12:
THE CORRECT TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS ARE AS FOLLOWS:
- STEERING COLUMN LOWER PINCH BOLT 22 N.M (16 LB FT)
- STEERING COLUMN UPPER PINCH BOLT 22 N.M (16 LB FT)
SECTIONS 3C-16, 4D-4 AND 4D-5:
THE CORRECT TIGHTENING SPECIFICATION IS AS FOLLOWS:
- FRONT DRIVE AXLE NUT 385 N.M (284 LB FT) +/- 5 N.M (44 LB IN). REPLACE THE DRIVE
AXLE NUT WITH A NEW ONE AFTER EVERY REMOVAL. NEVER RE-USE THE DRIVE AXLE
NUT.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7524
Axle Nut: Specifications
Service Manual Update #73-32-03A
Drive Axle Nut (New)
............................................................................................................................................... 385 Nm
(284 ft lb) +/- 5 Nm (44 in lb)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive/Propeller Shafts, Bearings and Joints > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire/Wheel and Propshaft - Revised Rotational Worksheet
Drive/Propeller Shafts, Bearings and Joints: Technical Service Bulletins Tire/Wheel and Propshaft Revised Rotational Worksheet
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 63-01-03
Date: January, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 0C - Revised Tire/Wheel and Propshaft Rotational Worksheet
Models: 1997 Passenger Cars (Except Camaro, Catera, Concours, Corvette, DeVille,
Eldorado, Firebird, Seville, Trans Am)
1997 Chevrolet Venture 1997 Geo Tracker 1997 Oldsmobile Silhouette 1997 Pontiac Trans Sport
This bulletin is being issued to revise the Tire/Wheel and Propshaft Rotational Worksheet in
Section 0C of the Service Manual.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive/Propeller Shafts, Bearings and Joints > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire/Wheel and Propshaft - Revised Rotational Worksheet > Page 7529
The previously released Tire/Wheel Rotational Worksheet or the Tire/Wheel and Propshaft
Rotational Worksheet did not prompt the user to consistently input a standard and/or metric value
on the worksheet. This could lead the user to an incorrect diagnosis of a vibration. The included
revised worksheet is applicable to front, rear, and four-wheel drive vehicles as it includes the
formula for calculating propshaft speed.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Flex Plate > Component Information > Specifications >
Tightening Specifications (Flex Plate to Crankshaft)
Flex Plate: Specifications Tightening Specifications (Flex Plate to Crankshaft)
Flex plate bolts ....................................................................................................................................
..................................................... 83 Nm (61 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Flex Plate > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Flywheel/Torque Converter Vibration Test Procedure
Flex Plate: Testing and Inspection Flywheel/Torque Converter Vibration Test Procedure
GENERAL PROCEDURE
1. Start engine. 2. With engine at idle speed and the transaxle in Park or Neutral, observe vibration.
3. Shut off engine.
Remove Or Disconnect a. Converter shield attaching bolts. b. Flywheel to torque converter
attaching bolts. c. Rotate torque converter 120° (1/3 turn).
Install Or Connect a. Torque converter to flywheel bolts. Apply adhesive/sealant compound GM
P/N 12345493 or equivalent to flywheel bolts.
Tighten Bolts to 62 Nm (46 ft. lbs.). Hand start and tighten "net slot" bolt first. Hand start and tighten the two
remaining bolts.
b. Transaxle converter cover bolts.
Tighten -
Bolts to 10 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
4. Start engine and check for vibration. Repeat this procedure until the best possible balance is
obtained by moving flywheel 120°.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Flex Plate > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Flywheel/Torque Converter Vibration Test Procedure > Page 7536
Flex Plate: Testing and Inspection Balance Inspection Procedure
BALANCING INSPECTION PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure in order to correct flex plate and torque converter imbalance: ^
Inspect for missing or loose converter-to-flex plate bolts. Tighten the bolts or replace the bolts as
necessary.
^ Inspect the converter for damage. Replace the converter if the converter is damaged.
^ Inspect the converter for missing balance weights. Replace the converter if the balance weights
are missing.
^ Change the position of the converter-to-flex plate 120 degrees at a time in order to cancel out
engine and converter imbalance. Check for vibration improvements in each position.
CAUTION: Ensure that the bolts are not bottoming in the holes. If the bolts bottom, the cover could
be dented and the internal clutch facing could be damaged. After adding washers, always rotate
the converter by hand in order to check for clearance.
^ Leave the converter-to-flex plate in the best balanced position if the unbalanced condition still
exists. Install longer flex plate-to-converter bolts. Add or remove washers until the best balance is
achieved.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Flex Plate > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Flywheel to Torque Converter Bolts
Flex Plate: Service and Repair Flywheel to Torque Converter Bolts
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle and support the vehicle.
2. Transaxle converter cover bolts and cover. 3. Mark relationship of converter to flywheel. 4. Three
bolts attaching converter to flywheel.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Bolts attaching converter to flywheel.
Tighten All bolts to 62 Nm (46 ft. lbs.). Retorque the first bolt after all three have been tightened.
2. Converter cover and attaching bolts.
Tighten Bolts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).
3. Lower vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Flex Plate > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Flywheel to Torque Converter Bolts > Page 7539
Flex Plate: Service and Repair Removal and Installation
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the transmission.
3. Remove the flex plate attaching bolts. Use a suitable tool in order to prevent crankshaft rotation.
4. Remove the flex plate spacer. 5. Remove the flex plate. 6. Clean the flex plate bolt threads and
the bolt holes.
INSTALLATION
1. Apply thread locker to all flex plate bolts. Use GM P/N 12345382 or its equivalent. 2. Install the
flex plate. 3. Install the flex plate spacer. 4. Install the flex plate bolts. Tighten the bolts to 83 Nm
(61 ft. lbs.). 5. Install the transmission. 6. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams
Transaxle Indicator Lamp
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Manual Transmission - M/T Operating Characteristics
Manual Transmission/Transaxle: Technical Service Bulletins Manual Transmission - M/T Operating
Characteristics
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 03-07-29-004G
Date: December 15, 2010
Subject: Manual Transmission Operating Characteristics
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Including Saturn) 2009 and Prior
Chevrolet and GMC Medium Duty Trucks 2006-2010 HUMMER H3 with Manual Transmission
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2011 model year and to add Cold Operation
information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-29-004F (Section 07 Transmission/Transaxle).
Important Even though this bulletin attempts to cover operating characteristics of manual
transmissions, it cannot be all inclusive. Be sure to compare any questionable concerns to a similar
vehicle and if possible, with similar mileage. Even though many of the conditions are described as
characteristics and may not be durability issues, GM may attempt to improve specific issues for
customer satisfaction.
The purpose of this bulletin is to assist in identifying characteristics of manual transmissions that
repair attempts will not change. The following are explanations and examples of conditions that will
generally occur in all manual transmissions. All noises will vary between transmissions due to build
variation, type of transmission (usually the more heavy duty, the more noise), type of flywheel and
clutch, level of insulation, etc.
Basic Information
Many transmission noises are created by the firing pulses of the engine. Each firing pulse creates a
sudden change in angular acceleration at the crankshaft. These changes in speed can be reduced
with clutch damper springs and dual mass flywheels. However, some speed variation will make it
through to the transmission. This can create noise as the various gears will accel and decel against
each other because of required clearances.
Cold Operation
Manual transmission operation will be affected by temperature because the transmission fluid will
be thicker when cold. The thicker fluid will increase the amount of force needed to shift the
transmission when cold. The likelihood of gear clash will also increase due to the greater time
needed for the synchronizer assembly to perform its function. Therefore when the transmission is
cold, or before it has reached operating temperature, quick, hard shifts should be avoided to
prevent damage to the transmission.
Gear Rattle
Rattling or grinding (not to be confused with a missed shift type of grinding, also described as a
combustion knock type of noise) type noises usually occur while operating the engine at low RPMs
(lugging the engine). This can occur while accelerating from a stop (for example, a Corvette) or
while operating at low RPMs while under a load (for example, Kodiak in a lower gear and at low
engine speed). Vehicles equipped with a dual-mass flywheel (for example, a 3500 HD Sierra with
the 6-speed manual and Duramax(R)) will have reduced noise levels as compared to vehicles
without (for example, a 4500 Kodiak with the 6-speed manual and Duramax(R)). However,
dual-mass flywheels do not eliminate all noise.
Neutral Rattle
There are often concerns of rattle while idling in neutral with the clutch engaged. This is related to
the changes in angular acceleration described earlier. This is a light rattle, and once again, vehicles
with dual mass flywheels will have reduced noise. If the engine is shut off while idling in neutral with
the clutch engaged, the sudden stop of the engine will create a rapid change in angular
acceleration that even dual mass flywheels cannot compensate. Because of the mass of all the
components, this will create a noise. This type of noise should not be heard if the clutch is released
(pedal pushed to the floor).
Backlash
Backlash noise is created when changing engine or driveline loading. This can occur when
accelerating from a stop, coming to a stop, or applying and releasing the throttle (loading and
unloading the driveline). This will vary based on vehicle type, build variations, driver input, vehicle
loading, etc. and is created from the necessary clearance between all of the mating gears in the
transmission, axle(s) and transfer case (if equipped).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Manual Transmission - M/T Operating Characteristics > Page 7549
Shift Effort
Shift effort will vary among different style transmissions and synchronizer designs. Usually the
more heavy duty the transmission, the higher the shift effort because of the increased mass of the
components. Shift effort can also be higher in cold weather because the fluid will be thicker.
Medium duty transmissions will not shift as quickly as a Corvette transmission. To reduce shift
effort, do not attempt to rush the shift - allow the synchronizers to work as designed. Shifting harder
will only increase the chance of rushing past the synchronizer leading to grinding while shifting.
Non-Synchronized Gears
Some light duty truck transmissions in 1st gear (creeper-gear) and reverse gears in various
transmissions, along with all gears in some medium duty transmissions, may be non-synchronized.
This means there is not a mechanism to match input and output shaft speeds to allow for a smooth
shift. This function is left up to the driver. This can be noticed if a shift into 1st or reverse is
attempted while the vehicle is rolling or before the input shaft stops rotating leading to a gear grind.
The grinding can be reduced by coming to a complete stop and pausing for a moment before
shifting into the 1st or reverse gear. Some slight grinding can be expected. In medium duty
non-synchronized transmissions, the driver must match input shaft (engine) speed to output shaft
(driveshaft) speed with every shift. This can be accomplished by double clutching, or by using other
methods. If the driver is not able to perform this function properly, there will be gear grinding with
each improperly completed shift. Driver training may be required to correct this condition. Clutch
brakes are used in medium duty non-synchronized transmissions to allow a shift into gear at a
stop. The clutch brake is used to stop the input shaft from spinning, allowing a shift into gear at a
stop without grinding. The clutch brake is activated by pressing the clutch pedal all the way to the
floor. When the clutch brake is used, it is possible to have a blocked shift with the vehicle
stationary. If this occurs, engage the clutch slightly to rotate the input gear to allow the shift. The
clutch brake is intended to only be used while at a stop. Care must be taken to not activate the
clutch brake while shifting between gears. This could lead to excessive grinding or a blocked or
missed shift.
Skip Shift
Currently, the Cadillac CTS-V, Pontiac GTO, Chevrolet Corvette and Camaro SS (other models
may follow) equipped with the 6-speed manual transmission have a feature referred to as a
"skip-shift." This feature only allows a shift from 1st to 4th gear when the indicator lamp is
illuminated on the dash. Dealers cannot disable this feature as it was established to help meet fuel
economy standards. The conditions for this feature are: engine coolant at normal operating
temperature, vehicle speed of 24-31 km/h (15-19 mph), 21% or less throttle being used (refer to
Service Information or the Owner Manual for more details.)
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Brake Switch - TCC > Component Information > Description and Operation
Brake Switch - TCC: Description and Operation
The TCC brake switch signal indicates when the brake pedal is applied. The TCC brake switch
information is used by the PCM mainly to control the Transaxle torque converter clutch. Refer to
Automatic Transmission/Transaxle diagnosis for a complete description and TCC brake switch
diagnosis.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove negative battery cable. 2. Remove transaxle case side cover. 3. Remove pressure
switch assembly (6 bolts).
IMPORTANT: Inspect the O-rings for the pressure switch assembly for any damage.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the pressure switch assembly making sure all O-rings are in place. 2. Torque the 6 bolts
holding the pressure switch assembly to 12 Nm (9 ft. lbs.). 3. Install the transaxle case side cover.
4. Connect the negative battery cable. 5. Refill transaxle with fluid to proper level. Refer to 4T40E
OIL LEVEL CHECKING AND FILL PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift
Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift
Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7566
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift
Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7567
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7573
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7574
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 7575
Valid Input Combinations
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > C1
Transaxle Range Switch: C1
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 7578
Transaxle Range Switch: C2
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page
7579
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Description and Operation
Valid Input Combinations
DESCRIPTION
The Transaxle Range Switch is part of the Transaxle Park/Neutral Position (PNP) switch mounted
on the transaxle manual shaft. The 4 inputs from the transaxle range switch indicate to the PCM
which position is selected by the Transaxle selector lever. This information is used for transmission
shift control, ignition timing, EVAP canister purge, EGR and Idle Air Control (IAC) valve operation.
The combination of the four transaxle range input states determine the PCM commanded shift
pattern.
The input voltage level at the PCM is high (B+) when the transaxle range switch is open and low
when the switch is closed to ground. The state of each input is represented on the scan tool as
X=high voltage level, O=low voltage level. The four parameters represent transaxle range switch
Parity, A, B, and C inputs respectively.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page
7580
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page
7581
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page
7582
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift linkage. 3. Electrical connector. 4. Mounting bolts. 5. Switch
assembly.
REPLACEMENT - USING OLD SWITCH
Install Or Connect 1. Place shift shaft in NEUTRAL. 2. Align flats of shift shaft with switch. 3.
Mounting bolts, loosely. 4. Insert J 41545 and rotate switch until tool drops into position.
Tighten Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Remove Or Disconnect 1. J 41545.
IMPORTANT: After switch adjustment, verify that engine will only start in PARK or NEUTRAL. If engine will start
in any other position, readjust switch.
REPLACEMENT - USING NEW SWITCH
Install Or Connect 1. Place shift shaft in NEUTRAL. 2. Align flats of shift shaft to flats in switch and
install switch assembly. 3. Mounting bolts. 4. Insert tool J 41545 and rotate switch until tool drops
into position.
Tighten Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Important: After switch installation verify that engine will only start in PARK or NEUTRAL. If engine will start in
any other position, readjust switch using Replacement - Using Old Switch procedure.
Adjust 1. Place transaxle control shifter assembly in the NEUTRAL notch in detent plate. 2. Loosen
switch attaching bolts. 3. Rotate switch on shifter assembly to align J 41545.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page
7583
Tighten -
Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
4. Remove J 41545.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions
Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7588
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7589
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7590
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7591
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7592
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7593
Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7594
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7609
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7611
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7612
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7613
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7614
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7615
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7616
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7617
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7618
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7619
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7620
Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Description and Operation
Description
Description
The Transaxle Fluid Temperature (TFT) sensor is a thermistor which changes value based on the
temperature of the transaxle fluid. A high transaxle fluid temperature may cause the vehicle to
operate in "Hot Mode." While in "Hot Mode," shift points may be altered, 4th gear disabled, and
Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) forced ON in 2nd gear.
A failure in the TFT sensor or associated wiring should cause DTC P0712 or P0713 to set. In this
case, engine coolant temperature will be substituted for the TFT sensor value, and the transaxle
will operate normally. Refer to Automatic Transmission/Transaxle Diagnosis for a complete
description of the TFT sensor.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov >
03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov >
03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7632
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: > 03-07-30-021A > Nov >
03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7633
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES
Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7639
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Pressure Regulating Solenoid: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7640
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7641
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove negative battery cable. 2. Remove transaxle case side cover. 3. Remove retainer clip
from the specified solenoid using a small screwdriver. 4. A shift solenoid has one O-ring. The
pressure control solenoid and TCC solenoid have 2 O-rings. Remove the solenoid and O-ring or
O-rings from
transaxle.
IMPORTANT: Inspect the O-rings and solenoids for any damage.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the solenoid and O-ring or O-rings. 2. Install the retainer clip holding the solenoid in the
valve body. 3. Install the transaxle case side cover. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7642
5. Refill transaxle with fluid to proper level. Refer to 4T40E OIL LEVEL CHECKING AND FILL
PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information >
Locations
Under Center Console
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information >
Locations > Page 7646
Brake Transaxle Shift Interlock Solenoid
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair
Shift Solenoid: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove negative battery cable. 2. Remove transaxle case side cover. 3. Remove retainer clip
from the specified solenoid using a small screwdriver. 4. A shift solenoid has one O-ring. The
pressure control solenoid and TCC solenoid have 2 O-rings. Remove the solenoid and O-ring or
O-rings from
transaxle.
IMPORTANT: Inspect the O-rings and solenoids for any damage.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the solenoid and O-ring or O-rings. 2. Install the retainer clip holding the solenoid in the
valve body. 3. Install the transaxle case side cover. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Page 7650
5. Refill transaxle with fluid to proper level. Refer to 4T40E OIL LEVEL CHECKING AND FILL
PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove negative battery cable. 2. Remove transaxle case side cover. 3. Remove retainer clip
from the specified solenoid using a small screwdriver. 4. A shift solenoid has one O-ring. The
pressure control solenoid and TCC solenoid have 2 O-rings. Remove the solenoid and O-ring or
O-rings from
transaxle.
IMPORTANT: Inspect the O-rings and solenoids for any damage.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the solenoid and O-ring or O-rings. 2. Install the retainer clip holding the solenoid in the
valve body. 3. Install the transaxle case side cover. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Page 7654
5. Refill transaxle with fluid to proper level. Refer to 4T40E OIL LEVEL CHECKING AND FILL
PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams
Transaxle Indicator Lamp
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Brake Switch - TCC > Component Information > Description
and Operation
Brake Switch - TCC: Description and Operation
The TCC brake switch signal indicates when the brake pedal is applied. The TCC brake switch
information is used by the PCM mainly to control the Transaxle torque converter clutch. Refer to
Automatic Transmission/Transaxle diagnosis for a complete description and TCC brake switch
diagnosis.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information >
Service and Repair
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove negative battery cable. 2. Remove transaxle case side cover. 3. Remove pressure
switch assembly (6 bolts).
IMPORTANT: Inspect the O-rings for the pressure switch assembly for any damage.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install the pressure switch assembly making sure all O-rings are in place. 2. Torque the 6 bolts
holding the pressure switch assembly to 12 Nm (9 ft. lbs.). 3. Install the transaxle case side cover.
4. Connect the negative battery cable. 5. Refill transaxle with fluid to proper level. Refer to 4T40E
OIL LEVEL CHECKING AND FILL PROCEDURE.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A >
Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Customer Interest A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A >
Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7676
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: > 03-07-30-021A >
Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7677
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's
Set/SES Lamp ON
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-021A
Date: November 19, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Neutral Flare and/or RPM Flare While In Drive, No 1-2 Upshift, Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light Illuminated, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1810, DTC P1815 Set (Reprogram the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve
Position Switch)
Models: 1995-2003 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1995-2003 Pontiac Sunfire 1998-2003 Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E Transmission (RPO MN4) or
4T45E Transmission (RPO MN5)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add reprogramming of the PCM on 2003 V6 models. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a neutral flare and/or RPM increase while in drive or no 1-2
upshift and/or the Service Engine Soon (SES) telltale may be illuminated. On 1995-2002 model
vehicles, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may set a DTC P1810 while on 2003 model
vehicles, the PCM may set a DTC P1815.
Cause
The cause may be the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) switch (also known as the pressure switch
manifold (PSM)). It will be referred to as the TFP switch in this bulletin.
Correction
Follow the diagnosis and service procedure below to correct this condition.
VIN BREAKPOINTS
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7683
1. If servicing a 2003 Alero, Grand Am, or Malibu with a V6 (RPO LG8 or LA1) for a DTC P1815
built prior to the VIN Breakpoints listed in the table above, REPROGRAM the PCM with the
calibrations listed, prior to replacing the TFP switch.
Important:
Before installing the new TFP switch, inspect the date code stamped in the switch. The date code
MUST BE 2308 or higher. Refer to the illustration above.
2. Replace the TFP switch.
3. Clear the code and road test the vehicle.
4. If additional diagnosis is required to correct this condition, refer to:
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1810, refer to DTC P1810.
^ For diagnosis of DTC P1815, refer to DTC P1815.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: >
03-07-30-021A > Nov > 03 > A/T - Shift Flare/DTC's Set/SES Lamp ON > Page 7684
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7685
Valid Input Combinations
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1
Transaxle Range Switch: C1
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 7688
Transaxle Range Switch: C2
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 7689
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Description and Operation
Valid Input Combinations
DESCRIPTION
The Transaxle Range Switch is part of the Transaxle Park/Neutral Position (PNP) switch mounted
on the transaxle manual shaft. The 4 inputs from the transaxle range switch indicate to the PCM
which position is selected by the Transaxle selector lever. This information is used for transmission
shift control, ignition timing, EVAP canister purge, EGR and Idle Air Control (IAC) valve operation.
The combination of the four transaxle range input states determine the PCM commanded shift
pattern.
The input voltage level at the PCM is high (B+) when the transaxle range switch is open and low
when the switch is closed to ground. The state of each input is represented on the scan tool as
X=high voltage level, O=low voltage level. The four parameters represent transaxle range switch
Parity, A, B, and C inputs respectively.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 7690
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 7691
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 7692
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift linkage. 3. Electrical connector. 4. Mounting bolts. 5. Switch
assembly.
REPLACEMENT - USING OLD SWITCH
Install Or Connect 1. Place shift shaft in NEUTRAL. 2. Align flats of shift shaft with switch. 3.
Mounting bolts, loosely. 4. Insert J 41545 and rotate switch until tool drops into position.
Tighten Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Remove Or Disconnect 1. J 41545.
IMPORTANT: After switch adjustment, verify that engine will only start in PARK or NEUTRAL. If engine will start
in any other position, readjust switch.
REPLACEMENT - USING NEW SWITCH
Install Or Connect 1. Place shift shaft in NEUTRAL. 2. Align flats of shift shaft to flats in switch and
install switch assembly. 3. Mounting bolts. 4. Insert tool J 41545 and rotate switch until tool drops
into position.
Tighten Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Important: After switch installation verify that engine will only start in PARK or NEUTRAL. If engine will start in
any other position, readjust switch using Replacement - Using Old Switch procedure.
Adjust 1. Place transaxle control shifter assembly in the NEUTRAL notch in detent plate. 2. Loosen
switch attaching bolts. 3. Rotate switch on shifter assembly to align J 41545.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 7693
Tighten -
Bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
4. Remove J 41545.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7698
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7699
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7700
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7701
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7702
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7703
Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7704
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7718
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7719
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7720
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7721
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7722
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7723
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7724
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7725
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7726
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7727
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7728
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7729
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Information > Diagrams > Page 7730
Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Description and Operation
Description
Description
The Transaxle Fluid Temperature (TFT) sensor is a thermistor which changes value based on the
temperature of the transaxle fluid. A high transaxle fluid temperature may cause the vehicle to
operate in "Hot Mode." While in "Hot Mode," shift points may be altered, 4th gear disabled, and
Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) forced ON in 2nd gear.
A failure in the TFT sensor or associated wiring should cause DTC P0712 or P0713 to set. In this
case, engine coolant temperature will be substituted for the TFT sensor value, and the transaxle
will operate normally. Refer to Automatic Transmission/Transaxle Diagnosis for a complete
description of the TFT sensor.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > ABS Light >
Component Information > Description and Operation > General Description
ABS Light: Description and Operation General Description
The ABS indicator (amber) will be illuminated when the Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
transmits a Class 2 message to the Body Function Controller (BFC) indicating there is an ABS
malfunction. The Body Function Controller (BFC) will then command the ABS indicator ON over the
Serial Peripheral interface (SPI) data line to the Instrument Cluster. in the event of a Class 2 serial
data loss the ABS indicator will illuminate. In the event of an Serial Peripheral interface (SPI) data
link failure, the ABS indicator will not illuminate unless the indicator was illuminated prior to the
Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) data link failure.
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Component Information > Description and Operation > General Description > Page 7737
ABS Light: Description and Operation Circuit Description
When the EBCM needs to illuminate the ABS warning indicator or BRAKE warning indicators, it will
transmit a signal (via serial data link) to the electronic Instrument Cluster which will illuminate the
indicator. The amber ABS warning indicator will be illuminated to alert the driver of a malfunction.
This indicates that the malfunction affects operation of the ABS. Normal (non-antilock) braking will
remain. In order to regain ABS braking ability, the ABS must be serviced. As a bulb check
procedure, the EBCM will command the ABS warning indicator ON for 3 seconds when the EBCM
receives power (ignition in RUN or START positions). with the ignition in the OFF/UNLOCK position
(loss of serial data), the Instrument Cluster will illuminate the ABS warning indicator. The red
BRAKE warning indicator has three functions. It will illuminate whenever the park brake is set or
when the brake fluid level within the master cylinder reservoir drops below a safe level. As a bulb
check procedure, the EBCM will command the BRAKE warning indicator ON when the EBCM
receives power (ignition in RUN or START position). With the ignition in the OFF/UNLOCK position
(loss of EBCM serial data), the Instrument Cluster will illuminate the red BRAKE warning indicator.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > ABS Main
Relay > Component Information > Description and Operation
ABS Main Relay: Description and Operation
The Electronic Brake Control Relay is a normally-open contact type, and has special contact
material to handle the high currents required for ABS VI operation. The relay allows the battery
voltage and current to be supplied to the solenoids and the EBCM, which supplies power to the
motors.
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Relay > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 7741
ABS Main Relay: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Underhood Bussed Electrical Center cover. 2. Electronic Brake Control Relay.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Electronic Brake Control Relay. 2. Underhood Bussed Electrical Center cover. 3. Perform
Diagnostic System Check.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Brake Fluid
Solenoid Valve Relay > Component Information > Locations
LF Wheel
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Brake Fluid
Solenoid Valve Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Harness Connector
RF ABS Solenoid
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Brake Fluid
Solenoid Valve Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Harness Connector > Page 7747
LF ABS Solenoid
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Braking
Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Twist-Lock Style Brake Switches - Proper
Adjustment
Braking Sensor/Switch: Technical Service Bulletins Twist-Lock Style Brake Switches - Proper
Adjustment
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-83-12
Date: April, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: Proper Adjustment of New Twist-Lock Style Brake Switches
Models: 1996-98 Buick LeSabre, Park Avenue, Riviera 1996-98 Cadillac DeVille, Eldorado, Seville
1997-98 Chevrolet Malibu 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier 1996 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1996-98
Oldsmobile Aurora, Eighty Eight, LSS, Regency 1997-98 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999 Oldsmobile
Alero 1996-98 Pontiac Bonneville 1998 Pontiac Sunfire 1999 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin is being issued to advise that new style brake switches were used beginning in the
1996 model year. The two switches control the brake lights, cruise control engage/release, TCC
lock-up/release and the Brake/Transmission Inter-Lock function. The switches are adjusted by
twisting rather than ratcheting. Using the old adjustment method of pulling up on the brake pedal
can break the switch.
A mis-adjusted or damaged switch may cause customer comments such as:
^ Brake lights stay on, draining the battery
^ Cruise control inoperative
^ Higher than normal fuel consumption if TCC cannot engage
^ Brake drag
^ Cruise control takes excess pedal travel to release
The adjustment procedure in the Service Manual should be followed.
Procedure
1. Insert the stop lamp switch into the retainer until the switch bottoms out against the brake pedal,
and the switch actuator is fully depressed.
2. Turn the brake switch in the retainer clockwise until the travel stop has been reached. At this
point it will be locked.
Important:
If the switch is not fully locked into position, a clicking noise may result.
3. The brake switch plunger should extend outward 0.5 mm to 1.5 mm (0.02 in. to 0.06 in.) if
adjusted correctly.
4. If the distance the plunger extends is too great, the brake switch must be turned
counter-clockwise about 45° and set to the correct distance before locking it in place by turning it
clockwise until the travel stop is reached.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Electronic
Brake Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286)
Electronic Brake Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 &
86 (C1246 & C1286)
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-26
Date: August, 1997
Subject: ABS Light On - DTC's 46 and 86 Set (Perform Diagnostic Procedure, Replace Center ABS
Motor Pinion)
Models: 1991-97 Buick Skylark 1992-97 Buick Regal 1994-97 Buick Century 1992-96 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica, Lumina APV 1992-97 Chevrolet Cavalier, Lumina, 1993-97 Chevrolet Camaro
1995-97 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1997
Chevrolet Malibu, Venture
1993-97 Geo Prizm 1995-97 Geo Metro 1996-97 Geo Tracker 1991
Oldsmobile Calais
1992-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1992-97 Oldsmobile Achieva, Cutlass Supreme, Silhouette
1997
Oldsmobile Cutlass
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
1991-97 Pontiac Grand Am 1992-94 Pontiac Sunbird 1992-97 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1993-97 Pontiac Firebird, Trans Am 1995-97 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition
Some owners may comment that the ABS light is on with Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) 46
and 86 set (rear ABS channel will not move) as current or history. (DTC's 46 and 86 will be
displayed as C1246 and C1286 on 1997 and 1998 model year vehicles).
Cause
A condition exists where the ABS motor pack gear (pinion) will bind on the motor armature shaft
causing the motor not to move when commanded by the EBCM. This condition is aggravated by
light corrosion between the pinion and shaft. Therefore, it may occur more frequently when the
weather is hot and humid.
Important:
Other EBCM and ABS motor pack concerns can also cause this condition, but they are not as
common as the above cause.
Correction
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Electronic
Brake Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 7760
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Electronic
Brake Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 7761
Follow the included procedure (Attachments 1 and 2) for diagnosis. This condition may correct
itself before the owner is able to bring the vehicle in for service. Therefore, if DTC 46 is set in
history, and is not currently setting, the included procedure will instruct you to replace the center
ABS motor pinion. The new pinion has a Teflon insert which reduces friction between the pinion
and motor armature shaft.
Pinion Replacement
If the included procedure instructs you to replace the center ABS motor pinion, use P/N 18029776.
Please note that the new pinion is a direct replacement part which requires no modifications to the
motor shaft. Follow the pinion replacement procedure included with the new pinion. Complete
motor pack replacement is not required.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
H2506 Use published labor
operation time.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Electronic Brake
Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286)
Electronic Brake Control Module: Customer Interest Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246
& C1286)
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-26
Date: August, 1997
Subject: ABS Light On - DTC's 46 and 86 Set (Perform Diagnostic Procedure, Replace Center ABS
Motor Pinion)
Models: 1991-97 Buick Skylark 1992-97 Buick Regal 1994-97 Buick Century 1992-96 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica, Lumina APV 1992-97 Chevrolet Cavalier, Lumina, 1993-97 Chevrolet Camaro
1995-97 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1997
Chevrolet Malibu, Venture
1993-97 Geo Prizm 1995-97 Geo Metro 1996-97 Geo Tracker 1991
Oldsmobile Calais
1992-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1992-97 Oldsmobile Achieva, Cutlass Supreme, Silhouette
1997
Oldsmobile Cutlass
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
1991-97 Pontiac Grand Am 1992-94 Pontiac Sunbird 1992-97 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1993-97 Pontiac Firebird, Trans Am 1995-97 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition
Some owners may comment that the ABS light is on with Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) 46
and 86 set (rear ABS channel will not move) as current or history. (DTC's 46 and 86 will be
displayed as C1246 and C1286 on 1997 and 1998 model year vehicles).
Cause
A condition exists where the ABS motor pack gear (pinion) will bind on the motor armature shaft
causing the motor not to move when commanded by the EBCM. This condition is aggravated by
light corrosion between the pinion and shaft. Therefore, it may occur more frequently when the
weather is hot and humid.
Important:
Other EBCM and ABS motor pack concerns can also cause this condition, but they are not as
common as the above cause.
Correction
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Electronic Brake
Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 7767
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Electronic Brake
Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 7768
Follow the included procedure (Attachments 1 and 2) for diagnosis. This condition may correct
itself before the owner is able to bring the vehicle in for service. Therefore, if DTC 46 is set in
history, and is not currently setting, the included procedure will instruct you to replace the center
ABS motor pinion. The new pinion has a Teflon insert which reduces friction between the pinion
and motor armature shaft.
Pinion Replacement
If the included procedure instructs you to replace the center ABS motor pinion, use P/N 18029776.
Please note that the new pinion is a direct replacement part which requires no modifications to the
motor shaft. Follow the pinion replacement procedure included with the new pinion. Complete
motor pack replacement is not required.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
H2506 Use published labor
operation time.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7769
Electronic Brake Control Module: Specifications
TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS
Mounting Screw ...................................................................................................................................
............................................. 11 Nm (97 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7770
Inside LF Fender
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Exploded Views
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Exploded Views > Page 7773
Electronic Brake Control Module: Connector Views
Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Exploded Views > Page 7774
Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) (Part 2 Of 3)
Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) (Part 3 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 7775
Electronic Brake Control Module: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The controlling element of ABS VI is a microprocessor based Electronic Brake Control Module, or
EBCM. Inputs to the system include four wheel speed sensors, the brake switch, the brake fluid
level switch, ignition switch, and unswitched battery voltage. Outputs include three bi-directional
motor controls, two solenoid controls and the Electronic Brake Control Relay. A serial data line is
used for service diagnostic tools (scan tool), assembly plant testing and control of indicators in the
Instrument Cluster.
OPERATION
The EBCM monitors the speed of each wheel. If any wheel begins to approach lockup, the EBCM
controls the motors and solenoids to reduce brake pressure to the wheel approaching lockup. Once
the wheel regains traction, brake pressure is increased until the wheel again begins to approach
lockup. This cycle repeats until either the vehicle comes to a stop, the brake is released, or no
wheels approach lockup. Additionally, the EBCM monitors itself, each input and each output for
proper operation. If a system malfunction is detected, the EBCM will store a DTC in nonvolatile
memory (DTCs will not disappear if the battery is disconnected).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 7776
Electronic Brake Control Module: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Left front tire and wheel assembly. 2. Inner splash shield.
3. Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) electrical connector.
4. EBCM mounting screws from bracket.
5. EBCM.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. EBCM to vehicle. 2. Hex head screws, attaching EBCM. Tighten Hex head screws to 11 Nm (97
inch lbs.). 3. EBCM electrical connector. 4. Inner splash shield. 5. Left front tire and wheel
assembly. 6. Perform Diagnostic System Check.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Specifications
Hydraulic Assembly: Specifications
TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS
Hydraulic Modulator Bleeder Valves
............................................................................................................................................ 9 Nm (80
inch lbs.) Hydraulic Modulator Bracket Mounting Bolt
................................................................................................................................. 25 Nm (18 ft.
lbs.) Hydraulic Modulator Drive Gear Nut
........................................................................................................................................ 8.5 Nm (76
inch lbs.) Hydraulic Modulator Mounting Nut
............................................................................................................................................... 30 Nm
(22 ft. lbs.) Hydraulic Modulator Solenoid Screw
........................................................................................................................................... 5 Nm (44
inch lbs.) Motor Pack Screws ..............................................................................................................
......................................................... 5 Nm (44 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Specifications > Page 7780
LF Wheel
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Specifications > Page 7781
ABS Actuator Motor Assembly
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Specifications > Page 7782
Hydraulic Assembly: Service Precautions
WARNING: To help avoid personal injury due to a retained load on the hydraulic modulator, the
GEAR TENSION RELIEF function of the scan tool must be performed prior to removal of the ABS
hydraulic modulator assembly
.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Specifications > Page 7783
Hydraulic Assembly: Description and Operation
The hydraulic modulator assembly controls hydraulic pressure to the front calipers and rear wheel
cylinders by modulating hydraulic pressure to prevent wheel slip. The basic hydraulic modulator
configuration consists of gear subassemblies, ballscrews, nuts, pistons, and hydraulic check
valves. The motor pack consists of three motors, three drive gears and three ESB's.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Replacement
Hydraulic Assembly: Service and Repair Gear Replacement
WARNING: To help avoid personal injury, due to a retained load on the ABS hydraulic modulator,
the GEAR TENSION RELIEF function of the scan tool must be performed prior to removal of the
ABS hydraulic modulator.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to repair damaged motor packs or hydraulic modulation. Other than
modulator drive gear replacement, repair of these assemblies is not authorized. Do not lubricate or
oil gears or motor pack.
DISASSEMBLE
1. Hydraulic Modulator Assembly. 2. Screws attaching gear cover. 3. Motor pack to hydraulic
modulator screws.
NOTE: Take care in handling the motor pack. If dropped or damaged in the handling, the motor
pack must be replaced.
4. Separate motor pack from hydraulic modulator.
NOTE: Do not allow gear to turn while removing the retaining nut, since the modulator piston can
hit the top of the modulator bore, damaging the piston. Turn the modulator gear to position the
piston in the center of its travel. Place a screwdriver through the holes in the gears (not between
the gears) into the recessed hole in the modulator base. This will prevent the gear from turning,
aiding in gear removal.
5. Three modulator drive gear to modulator drive shaft retaining nuts.
6. Gears from modulator.
ASSEMBLE
NOTE: Do not allow gear to turn while tightening the retaining nut, since the modulator piston can
bottom out in the modulator bore damaging the piston. Turn the modulator gear to position the
piston in the center of its travel. Place a screwdriver through the holes in the gears (not between
the gears) into the recessed hole in the modulator base. This will prevent the gear from turning,
aiding in gear installation.
1. Position hydraulic modulator drive gears onto hydraulic modulator drive shaft. 2. Three gear
retaining nuts. Tighten Nuts to 8.5 Nm (76 inch lbs.). 3. With the hydraulic modulator upside down,
and the gears facing you, rotate each hydraulic modulator gear counterclockwise until movement
stops. This procedure will position the pistons very close to the top of the hydraulic modulator bore,
simplifying the brake bleeding procedure.
4. Position motor pack onto hydraulic modulator, aligning the three. motor pack gears with the
modulator. Take care in handling the motor pack. If
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Replacement > Page 7786
dropped or damaged during handling, the motor pack must be replaced.
5. Motor pack to hydraulic modulator screws. Tighten screws to 5 Nm (44 inch lbs.). 6. Gear cover
onto hydraulic modulator with screws. Tighten screws to 4 Nm (36 inch lbs.). 7. Hydraulic
modulator into vehicle. 8. Perform Diagnostic System Check. See: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Replacement > Page 7787
Hydraulic Assembly: Service and Repair Hydraulic Modulator
DISASSEMBLE
1. Hydraulic modulator assembly. 2. Screws attaching gear cover. 3. Remove gear cover. 4.
Screws attaching motor pack to hydraulic modulator. 5. Remove motor pack. 6. Proportioning valve
mounting screws. 7. Remove Proportioning valve.
NOTE: If hydraulic modulator is to be replaced, install the three gears in the same location on
replacement hydraulic modulator. No repair of the hydraulic modulator is authorized. Replace as an
assembly.
ASSEMBLE
1. Proportioning Valve to Hydraulic Modulator. Tighten Proportioning Valve screws to 12 Nm (106
inch lbs.). A new gasket MUST be used when
installing the Proportioning Valve.
2. With the hydraulic modulator upside down, and the gears facing you, rotate each hydraulic
modulator gear counterclockwise until movement
stops. This procedure will position the pistons very close to the top of the hydraulic modulator bore.
3. Motor pack to hydraulic modulator assembly. 4. Motor pack to hydraulic modulator screws.
Tighten Motor pack to hydraulic modulator screws to 5 Nm (44 inch lbs.). 5. Gear cover to hydraulic
modulator assembly. If the gear cover seal is damaged, the cover must be replaced. Tighten Gear
cover screws to 4 Nm
(36 inch lbs.).
6. Hydraulic modulator into vehicle. 7. Perform Diagnostic System Check. See: Testing and
Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Replacement > Page 7788
Hydraulic Assembly: Service and Repair Hydraulic Modulator Assembly Replacement
WARNING: To help avoid personal injury due to a retained load on the hydraulic modulator, the
GEAR TENSION RELIEF function of the scan tool must be performed prior to removal of the ABS
hydraulic modulator assembly.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Using the scan tool, perform GEAR TENSION RELIEF function under SPECIAL FUNCTIONS. 2.
Battery. 3. Battery tray. 4. Upper radiator hose.
5. Solenoid electrical connectors. 6. Motor Pack electrical connector.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Replacement > Page 7789
7. Brake pipes. Note position.
8. Hydraulic modulator assembly to bracket mounting nut. 9. Hydraulic modulator assembly.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Hydraulic modulator assembly. 2. Hydraulic modulator assembly to bracket mounting nut.
Tighten Nut to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Replacement > Page 7790
3. Brake pipes to Hydraulic Modulator. Use locations noted during removal.
WARNING: Make sure brake pipes are correctly connected to BPMV. If brake pipes are switched
by mistake (inlet vs. outlet), wheel lockup will occur and personal injury may result. Tighten Brake
pipes to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
4. Motor Pack electrical connector. 5. Solenoid electrical connectors. 6. Upper radiator hose. 7.
Battery tray. 8. Battery and bleed system. See: Hydraulic System/Service and Repair 9. Perform
Diagnostic System Check. See: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Replacement > Page 7791
Hydraulic Assembly: Service and Repair Hydraulic Modulator Bracket
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Hydraulic modulator assembly.
2. Bracket mounting bolts. 3. Bracket.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Bracket onto subframe. 2. Bracket mounting bolts. Tighten Bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.). 3.
Hydraulic modulator assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Replacement > Page 7792
Hydraulic Assembly: Service and Repair
Gear Replacement
WARNING: To help avoid personal injury, due to a retained load on the ABS hydraulic modulator,
the GEAR TENSION RELIEF function of the scan tool must be performed prior to removal of the
ABS hydraulic modulator.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to repair damaged motor packs or hydraulic modulation. Other than
modulator drive gear replacement, repair of these assemblies is not authorized. Do not lubricate or
oil gears or motor pack.
DISASSEMBLE
1. Hydraulic Modulator Assembly. 2. Screws attaching gear cover. 3. Motor pack to hydraulic
modulator screws.
NOTE: Take care in handling the motor pack. If dropped or damaged in the handling, the motor
pack must be replaced.
4. Separate motor pack from hydraulic modulator.
NOTE: Do not allow gear to turn while removing the retaining nut, since the modulator piston can
hit the top of the modulator bore, damaging the piston. Turn the modulator gear to position the
piston in the center of its travel. Place a screwdriver through the holes in the gears (not between
the gears) into the recessed hole in the modulator base. This will prevent the gear from turning,
aiding in gear removal.
5. Three modulator drive gear to modulator drive shaft retaining nuts.
6. Gears from modulator.
ASSEMBLE
NOTE: Do not allow gear to turn while tightening the retaining nut, since the modulator piston can
bottom out in the modulator bore damaging the piston. Turn the modulator gear to position the
piston in the center of its travel. Place a screwdriver through the holes in the gears (not between
the gears) into the recessed hole in the modulator base. This will prevent the gear from turning,
aiding in gear installation.
1. Position hydraulic modulator drive gears onto hydraulic modulator drive shaft. 2. Three gear
retaining nuts. Tighten Nuts to 8.5 Nm (76 inch lbs.). 3. With the hydraulic modulator upside down,
and the gears facing you, rotate each hydraulic modulator gear counterclockwise until movement
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Replacement > Page 7793
stops. This procedure will position the pistons very close to the top of the hydraulic modulator bore,
simplifying the brake bleeding procedure.
4. Position motor pack onto hydraulic modulator, aligning the three. motor pack gears with the
modulator. Take care in handling the motor pack. If
dropped or damaged during handling, the motor pack must be replaced.
5. Motor pack to hydraulic modulator screws. Tighten screws to 5 Nm (44 inch lbs.). 6. Gear cover
onto hydraulic modulator with screws. Tighten screws to 4 Nm (36 inch lbs.). 7. Hydraulic
modulator into vehicle. 8. Perform Diagnostic System Check. See: Testing and Inspection
Hydraulic Modulator
DISASSEMBLE
1. Hydraulic modulator assembly. 2. Screws attaching gear cover. 3. Remove gear cover. 4.
Screws attaching motor pack to hydraulic modulator. 5. Remove motor pack. 6. Proportioning valve
mounting screws. 7. Remove Proportioning valve.
NOTE: If hydraulic modulator is to be replaced, install the three gears in the same location on
replacement hydraulic modulator. No repair of the hydraulic modulator is authorized. Replace as an
assembly.
ASSEMBLE
1. Proportioning Valve to Hydraulic Modulator. Tighten Proportioning Valve screws to 12 Nm (106
inch lbs.). A new gasket MUST be used when
installing the Proportioning Valve.
2. With the hydraulic modulator upside down, and the gears facing you, rotate each hydraulic
modulator gear counterclockwise until movement
stops. This procedure will position the pistons very close to the top of the hydraulic modulator bore.
3. Motor pack to hydraulic modulator assembly. 4. Motor pack to hydraulic modulator screws.
Tighten Motor pack to hydraulic modulator screws to 5 Nm (44 inch lbs.). 5. Gear cover to hydraulic
modulator assembly. If the gear cover seal is damaged, the cover must be replaced. Tighten Gear
cover screws to 4 Nm
(36 inch lbs.).
6. Hydraulic modulator into vehicle. 7. Perform Diagnostic System Check. See: Testing and
Inspection
Hydraulic Modulator Assembly Replacement
WARNING: To help avoid personal injury due to a retained load on the hydraulic modulator, the
GEAR TENSION RELIEF function of the scan tool must be performed prior to removal of the ABS
hydraulic modulator assembly.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Using the scan tool, perform GEAR TENSION RELIEF function under SPECIAL FUNCTIONS.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Replacement > Page 7794
2. Battery. 3. Battery tray. 4. Upper radiator hose.
5. Solenoid electrical connectors. 6. Motor Pack electrical connector.
7. Brake pipes. Note position.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Replacement > Page 7795
8. Hydraulic modulator assembly to bracket mounting nut. 9. Hydraulic modulator assembly.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Hydraulic modulator assembly. 2. Hydraulic modulator assembly to bracket mounting nut.
Tighten Nut to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.).
3. Brake pipes to Hydraulic Modulator. Use locations noted during removal.
WARNING: Make sure brake pipes are correctly connected to BPMV. If brake pipes are switched
by mistake (inlet vs. outlet), wheel lockup will occur and personal injury may result. Tighten Brake
pipes to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
4. Motor Pack electrical connector. 5. Solenoid electrical connectors. 6. Upper radiator hose. 7.
Battery tray. 8. Battery and bleed system. See: Hydraulic System/Service and Repair 9. Perform
Diagnostic System Check. See: Testing and Inspection
Hydraulic Modulator Bracket
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Hydraulic modulator assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Replacement > Page 7796
2. Bracket mounting bolts. 3. Bracket.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Bracket onto subframe. 2. Bracket mounting bolts. Tighten Bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.). 3.
Hydraulic modulator assembly.
Hydraulic Modulator Solenoid
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Battery. 2. Battery tray. 3. Solenoid electrical connector.
4. Solenoid screws. 5. Solenoid.
NOTE: Be sure the seal is still attached to the solenoid when it is removed. If not, check solenoid
bore in modulator. Do not attempt to disassemble solenoid, it is serviceable only as an assembly.
Lubricate seal on new solenoid with clean brake fluid.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. New solenoid. Verify that the solenoid lip seal is properly positioned before solenoid is installed
in hydraulic modulator. Position solenoid so that
its electrical connector will face the same direction as the solenoid that was removed. By hand,
press down finely on solenoid until its flange seats on ABS hydraulic modulator.
2. Solenoid screws. Tighten Screws to 5 Nm (44 inch lbs.). 3. Solenoid electrical connector to
solenoid.
NOTE: Make sure the solenoid connectors are installed on correct solenoids. It is necessary to
bleed hydraulic modulator.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Assembly, Traction Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Replacement > Page 7797
4. Battery tray. 5. Battery. 6. Perform Diagnostic System Check.
Motor Pack
WARNING: To help avoid personal Injury, due to a retained load on the AIDS hydraulic modulator,
the GEAR TENSION RELIEF function of the scan tool must be performed prior to removal of the
ABS hydraulic modulator.
DISASSEMBLE
1. Hydraulic Modulator Assembly. 2. Screws attaching gear cover. 3. Remove gear cover.
4. Screws attaching motor pack to hydraulic modulator. 5. Motor pack from hydraulic modulator.
NOTE: Use care when handling motor pack to ensure motor pack connector is not damaged, or
accidental intrusion of brake fluid into the motor pack does not occur. This may result in a
premature failure of the motor pack. Take care in handling the motor pack. If dropped or damaged
during handling, the motor pack must be replaced. If disassembly of the hydraulic modulator
assembly was due to an ABS hydraulic functional test that did not pass, the Automated Motor Pack
Diagnosis Test should be performed at this time to isolate the motor pack or hydraulic modulator.
No repair of the motor pack is authorized. Replace as an assembly.
ASSEMBLE
1. Motor pack to hydraulic modulator.
NOTE: Take care in handling the motor pack. If dropped or damaged during handling the motor
pack must be replaced. Align each of the three motor pack pinions with the hydraulic modulator
gears.
2. Motor pack to hydraulic modulator attaching screws. Tighten Motor pack to hydraulic modulator
attaching screws to 5 Nm (44 inch lbs.). 3. Gear cover to hydraulic modulator. 4. Screws attaching
gear cover. Tighten Screws to 4 Nm (36 inch lbs.). 5. Hydraulic Modulator Assembly into vehicle. 6.
Using the scan tool, perform the MOTOR REHOME procedure. 7. Perform Diagnostic System
Check. See: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for
Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 &
C1286)
Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: Customer Interest Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 &
86 (C1246 & C1286)
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-26
Date: August, 1997
Subject: ABS Light On - DTC's 46 and 86 Set (Perform Diagnostic Procedure, Replace Center ABS
Motor Pinion)
Models: 1991-97 Buick Skylark 1992-97 Buick Regal 1994-97 Buick Century 1992-96 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica, Lumina APV 1992-97 Chevrolet Cavalier, Lumina, 1993-97 Chevrolet Camaro
1995-97 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1997
Chevrolet Malibu, Venture
1993-97 Geo Prizm 1995-97 Geo Metro 1996-97 Geo Tracker 1991
Oldsmobile Calais
1992-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1992-97 Oldsmobile Achieva, Cutlass Supreme, Silhouette
1997
Oldsmobile Cutlass
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
1991-97 Pontiac Grand Am 1992-94 Pontiac Sunbird 1992-97 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1993-97 Pontiac Firebird, Trans Am 1995-97 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition
Some owners may comment that the ABS light is on with Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) 46
and 86 set (rear ABS channel will not move) as current or history. (DTC's 46 and 86 will be
displayed as C1246 and C1286 on 1997 and 1998 model year vehicles).
Cause
A condition exists where the ABS motor pack gear (pinion) will bind on the motor armature shaft
causing the motor not to move when commanded by the EBCM. This condition is aggravated by
light corrosion between the pinion and shaft. Therefore, it may occur more frequently when the
weather is hot and humid.
Important:
Other EBCM and ABS motor pack concerns can also cause this condition, but they are not as
common as the above cause.
Correction
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for
Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 &
C1286) > Page 7806
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for
Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 &
C1286) > Page 7807
Follow the included procedure (Attachments 1 and 2) for diagnosis. This condition may correct
itself before the owner is able to bring the vehicle in for service. Therefore, if DTC 46 is set in
history, and is not currently setting, the included procedure will instruct you to replace the center
ABS motor pinion. The new pinion has a Teflon insert which reduces friction between the pinion
and motor armature shaft.
Pinion Replacement
If the included procedure instructs you to replace the center ABS motor pinion, use P/N 18029776.
Please note that the new pinion is a direct replacement part which requires no modifications to the
motor shaft. Follow the pinion replacement procedure included with the new pinion. Complete
motor pack replacement is not required.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
H2506 Use published labor
operation time.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins
for Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 &
C1286)
Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - ABS Light
ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286)
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-26
Date: August, 1997
Subject: ABS Light On - DTC's 46 and 86 Set (Perform Diagnostic Procedure, Replace Center ABS
Motor Pinion)
Models: 1991-97 Buick Skylark 1992-97 Buick Regal 1994-97 Buick Century 1992-96 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica, Lumina APV 1992-97 Chevrolet Cavalier, Lumina, 1993-97 Chevrolet Camaro
1995-97 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1997
Chevrolet Malibu, Venture
1993-97 Geo Prizm 1995-97 Geo Metro 1996-97 Geo Tracker 1991
Oldsmobile Calais
1992-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1992-97 Oldsmobile Achieva, Cutlass Supreme, Silhouette
1997
Oldsmobile Cutlass
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
1991-97 Pontiac Grand Am 1992-94 Pontiac Sunbird 1992-97 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1993-97 Pontiac Firebird, Trans Am 1995-97 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition
Some owners may comment that the ABS light is on with Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) 46
and 86 set (rear ABS channel will not move) as current or history. (DTC's 46 and 86 will be
displayed as C1246 and C1286 on 1997 and 1998 model year vehicles).
Cause
A condition exists where the ABS motor pack gear (pinion) will bind on the motor armature shaft
causing the motor not to move when commanded by the EBCM. This condition is aggravated by
light corrosion between the pinion and shaft. Therefore, it may occur more frequently when the
weather is hot and humid.
Important:
Other EBCM and ABS motor pack concerns can also cause this condition, but they are not as
common as the above cause.
Correction
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins
for Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 &
C1286) > Page 7813
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins
for Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 &
C1286) > Page 7814
Follow the included procedure (Attachments 1 and 2) for diagnosis. This condition may correct
itself before the owner is able to bring the vehicle in for service. Therefore, if DTC 46 is set in
history, and is not currently setting, the included procedure will instruct you to replace the center
ABS motor pinion. The new pinion has a Teflon insert which reduces friction between the pinion
and motor armature shaft.
Pinion Replacement
If the included procedure instructs you to replace the center ABS motor pinion, use P/N 18029776.
Please note that the new pinion is a direct replacement part which requires no modifications to the
motor shaft. Follow the pinion replacement procedure included with the new pinion. Complete
motor pack replacement is not required.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
H2506 Use published labor
operation time.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7815
LF Wheel
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Diagrams > Harness Connector
RF ABS Solenoid
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Diagrams > Harness Connector > Page 7818
LF ABS Solenoid
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 7819
Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The Expansion Spring Brake (ESB) is used to hold the piston in the uproots (or home) position. An
ESB is a spring that is retained in a housing at a close tolerance. One end of the spring is in
contact with the motor drive dog and the other end is in contact with the pinion drive dog. In normal
braking, brake pressure is present on the top of the piston, applying a downward force. The force
applies a counterclockwise torque to the motor pinion which tries to rotate the spring
counterclockwise. The counterclockwise torque expands the spring outward within the housing and
prevents gear rotation.
OPERATION
When the motor is turned on and tries to drive the ball screw nut, the end of the ESB in contact with
the motor drive log rotates inward causing the spring to contract in its housing allowing the motor to
rotate the modulator gear. The most common application of this principle is in window crank
mechanisms, where a small amount of force on the crank handle allows the window to be lowered
or raised, but the weight of the window or force on the window will not allow the window to move
downward. For the ESB, brake pressure on the top of the pistons corresponds to the weight of the
window and the motor corresponds to the window crank handle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Revised Speed Sensor Resistance Specification
Wheel Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Revised Speed Sensor Resistance
Specification
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-22
Date: June, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 5E - Revised Wheel Speed Sensor Resistance Specifications
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
This bulletin is being issued to revise the wheel speed sensor resistance specifications (DTC's
C1221 - C1235) on pages 5E1-54 through 5E1-101 of the Service Manual.
Front and rear wheel speed sensor resistance range has been changed to 950 - 1250 ohms.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Locations > LF
LF Wheel (RF Similar)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Locations > LF > Page 7826
RR Wheel (LR Similar)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > LF
LF Wheel Speed Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > LF > Page 7829
LR Wheel Speed Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > LF > Page 7830
RF Wheel Speed Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > LF > Page 7831
RR Wheel Speed Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Front Wheel Speed Sensors
Wheel Speed Sensor: Description and Operation Front Wheel Speed Sensors
The front wheel speed sensor and toothed ring are contained with the integral front wheel bearing.
This allows for improved environmental protection and easier assembly. The sensor and toothed
ring are not repairable and no provision for air gap adjustment exists. If a front wheel speed sensor
fails, the entire integral bearing and speed sensor assembly must be replaced.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Front Wheel Speed Sensors > Page 7834
Wheel Speed Sensor: Description and Operation Rear Wheel Speed Sensors
The rear wheel speed sensors operate in the same manner as the front wheel speed sensors. The
wheel speed sensor and toothed ring are contained within the dust cap of the integral rear wheel
bearing. This allows for improved environmental protection and easier assembly. The sensor and
toothed ring are not repairable and no provision for air gap adjustment exists. If a rear wheel speed
sensor fails, the entire integral bearing and speed sensor assembly must be replaced.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Front Wheel Speed Sensors > Page 7835
Wheel Speed Sensor: Description and Operation Front Wheel Speed Sensor Wiring
NOTE: The front wheel speed sensor wiring is not repairable in the control arm section of the wiring
harness. This section of the wiring harness must be replaced with the appropriate wiring harness
service kit "Pigtail." do not attempt to solder, splice, or crimp this section of the wiring harnesses as
eventual failure will likely result.
The front wheel speed sensor wiring is constructed of highly flexible twisted pair wiring. This wiring
exists because the-front wheel speed sensor wiring circuits must connect to the suspension of the
vehicle, thus the wiring in this area is subjected to the same motion as a spring or shock absorber.
Consequently, any repair to the front wheel speed sensor wiring circuits in the control arm section
of the wiring harness will result in stiffening and eventual failure due to wire fatigue.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 7836
Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair
Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 7837
Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor
Tool Required:
- J 38764
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
Important: The front sensor is serviceable only as an a assembly. Do not attempt to service the
sensor harness pigtail as it is part of the sensor.
1. Raise and support vehicle on suitable hoist. 2. Tire and wheel assembly. 3. Front wheel speed
sensor electrical connector. 4. Hub and bearing assembly. 5. Wheel speed sensor from hub and
bearing assembly using a blunt screwdriver.
Important: When the wheel speed sensor is removed it must be replaced. The speed sensor is damaged
when it is removed and cannot be reused. There are two parts to the wheel speed sensor. These
parts are replaced as an assembly. They cannot be replaced individually.
- Inspect bearing for signs of water intrusion, if water intrusion is noted, the bearing must be
replaced.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Apply LOCTITE (TM) 620 to mating surfaces of the wheel speed sensor that contacts the hub
and bearing assembly. 2. Using J 38764 with an arbor type press, press wheel speed sensor onto
hub and bearing assembly. 3. Hub and bearing assembly to vehicle. 4. Front wheel speed sensor
electrical connector. 5. Wheel and tire assembly. 6. Lower vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair >
System Flushing
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair System Flushing
Manual
NOTE: In the following steps, use a suitable container and/or shop rags to catch fluid and prevent it
from contacting any painted surfaces. Clean Fluid reservoir cover and surrounding area.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Fluid reservoir cover. 2. Any remaining brake fluid in reservoir. 3. Refill reservoir with clean DOT
3 brake fluid to proper level.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Fluid reservoir cover. 2. Flush hydraulic modulator as follows:
a. Attach a clear plastic bleeder hose to rearward bleeder valve on the hydraulic modulator and
place the other end of hose in a container to
collect draining brake fluid. Do not submerge hose end into fluid.
b. Slowly open rearward bleeder valve one half to one full turn. c. Depress brake pedal until fluid
begins to flow. d. Close valve and release brake pedal. Repeat above steps until clean brake fluid
flows or at least 118 ml (4 ounces) of fluid is accumulated. e. Repeat above procedure for the
forward bleeder valve until clean brake fluid flows or at least 118 ml (4 ounces) of brake fluid is
accumulated.
Tighten Hydraulic modulator bleeder valves to 9 Nm (80 inch lbs.). Inspect Fluid level in reservoir
and fill to correct level if necessary.
3. Fluid reservoir cover. 4. Raise vehicle and suitably support 5. Flush wheel brakes in sequence
shown above. Flush sequence:
- Right rear.
- Left rear.
- Right front.
- Left front.
a. Attach bleeder hose to bleeder valve at each wheel and place the other end into a container to
collect draining brake fluid. Do not submerge
hose end in fluid.
b. Open bleeder valve. c. Slowly depress brake pedal. d. Close valve and slowly release brake
pedal. e. Repeat above procedure until clean brake fluid flows or at least 235 ml (8 ounces) of fluid
is accumulated.
6. Repeat Step 5 on left rear brake. 7. Repeat Step 5 on right front brake. 8. Repeat Step 5 on left
front brake. 9. Lower vehicle.
10. Replace all rubber components listed under Flushing Procedure. 11. Repeat flushing procedure
one more time. Inspect Fluid level in reservoir and fill to correct level if necessary. 12. Fluid
reservoir cap. 13. Bleed the entire brake hydraulic system.
Pressure
NOTE: If any brake component is repaired or replaced such that air is allowed to enter the brake
system, the entire bleeding procedure MUST be followed.
NOTE: Prior to bleeding the brakes, the front and rear displacement cylinder pistons must be
returned to the topmost position. The preferred method uses a Scan Tool to perform the rehoming
procedure. If a Scan Tool is not available, the second procedure may be used, but it is extremely
important that the procedure be followed exactly as outlined.
NOTE: Pressure bleeding equipment can be used to perform the flush procedure. The pressure
bleeding equipment used for flushing must be of the diaphragm type. It must have a rubber
diaphragm between the air supply and the brake fluid to prevent air, moisture, and other
contaminants from entering the hydraulic system. Clean Fluid reservoir cover and surrounding
area.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Fluid reservoir cover. 2. Any remaining brake fluid in reservoir. 3. Refill reservoir with clean DOT
3 brake fluid to proper level.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair >
System Flushing > Page 7842
1. Bleeder adapter J 35589 to brake fluid reservoir. 2. Bleeder adapter to pressure bleeding
equipment. Adjust Pressure bleeding equipment to 35-70 kPa (5-10 psi) and wait for approximately
30
seconds to ensure there is no leakage. Pressure bleed equipment to 205-240 kPa (30-35 psi).
3. Proceed as follows with pressure bleeding equipment connected and pressurized: 4. Attach a
clear plastic hose to the rearward bleeder valve on the hydraulic modulator. Place the other end of
the hose in a container to collect
draining brake fluid. Do not submerge hose end into fluid.
5. Slowly open bleeder valve and allow fluid to flow until clean brake fluid flows or until at least 118
ml (4 ounces) of fluid is accumulated. 6. Close valve. 7. Repeat above procedure for the forward
bleeder valve until clean brake fluid flows or until at least 118 ml (4 ounces) of fluid is accumulated.
Tighten Hydraulic modulator bleeder valve to 9 Nm (80 inch lbs.).
8. Raise vehicle and suitably support. 9. Flush wheel brakes in sequence. Flush sequence:
- Right rear.
- Left rear.
- Right front.
- Left front
a. Attach bleeder hose to bleeder valve at each wheel and place the other end into a container to
collect draining brake fluid. Do not submerge
hose end in fluid.
b. Slowly open bleeder valve and allow fluid to flow. c. Close valve when clean brake fluid begins to
flow or at least 235 ml (8 ounces) of fluid is accumulated.
10. Repeat Step 9 on left rear wheel brake. 11. Repeat Step 9 on right front wheel brake. 12.
Repeat Step 9 on left front wheel brake. 13. Lower vehicle. 14. Remove bleeder adapter. 15.
Replace all rubber components listed under Flushing Procedure. 16. Repeat flushing procedure
one more time. Inspect Fluid level in reservoir and fill to correct level if necessary. 17. Fluid
reservoir cap. 18. Bleed the entire brake hydraulic system.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair >
System Flushing > Page 7843
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair System Bleeding
Manual
NOTE: Use only DOT 3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed container. Do not use fluid from an open
container that may be contaminated with water. Do not use DOT 5 brake fluid.
NOTE: In the following steps, use a suitable container and/or shop cloths to catch fluid and prevent
it from contacting any painted surfaces. Clean Fluid reservoir cover and surrounding area. Inspect
Fluid level in reservoir and fill to the correct level if necessary.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Fluid reservoir cover. 2. Prime hydraulic modulator/master cylinder assembly.
a. Attach bleeder hose to rearward bleeder valve and submerge opposite hose end in clean
container partially filled with brake fluid. b. Slowly open rearward bleeder valve 1/2 to 3/4 turns. c.
Depress brake pedal and hold until fluid begins to flow. d. Close valve and release brake pedal.
Repeat Step 1 until no air bubbles are present. e. Repeat Steps 2b through 2d until fluids begins to
flow. f.
Relocate the bleeder hose to the forward hydraulic modulator bleeder valve and repeat Steps 2a
through 2e. Once fluid is seems to flow from both modulator bleeder valves, the hydraulic
modulator/master cylinder assembly is sufficiently full of fluid. However, it may not be completely
purged of air. At this point move to the wheel brakes and bleed them. This ensures that the lowest
points in the system are completely free of air and then the hydraulic modulator/master cylinder
assembly can be purged of any remaining air.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Fluid reservoir cover. Inspect Fluid level in reservoir and fill to the correct level if necessary.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Fluid reservoir cover. 2. Raise vehicle and suitably support.
3. Proceed as follows to bleed wheel brakes in sequence shown. Bleed sequence:
- Right rear.
- Left rear.
- Right front.
- Left front.
a. Attach a clear bleeder hose to bleeder valve at wheel and submerge opposite hose in clean
container partially filled with brake fluid. b. Open bleeder valve. c. Slowly depress brake pedal. d.
Close valve and slowly release brake pedal. e. Wait 5 seconds. f.
Repeat Steps 3a through 3e until the brake pedal feels firm at half travel and no air bubbles are
observed in the bleeder hose. To assist in freeing entrapped air, tap lightly on the caliper or braking
plate
4. Repeat Step 3 on left rear wheel brake. 5. Repeat Step 3 on right front wheel brake. 6. Repeat
Step 3 on left front wheel brake. 7. Lower vehicle.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Fluid reservoir cover. Inspect Fluid level in reservoir and fill to the correct level if necessary.
Pressure
NOTE: Pressure bleeding equipment must be of the diaphragm type. It must hive a rubber
diaphragm between the air supply and the brake fluid to prevent air, moisture and other
contaminants from entering the hydraulic system. Clean Fluid reservoir cover and surrounding
area. Inspect Fluid to be at proper level. Add clean brake fluid as required.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Bleeder adapter J 35589 to brake fluid reservoir. 2. Bleeder adapter to pressure bleeding
equipment. 3. Clear plastic bleeder hose to rearward bleeder valve. Submerge other end of bleeder
hose in clean container partially filled with brake fluid. Adjust
Pressure bleed equipment to 35-70 kPa (5-10 psi) and wait for approximately 30 seconds to insure
there is no leakage. Pressure bleed equipment to 205-240 kPa (30-35 psi).
4. Proceed as follows with pressure bleeding equipment connected and pressurized.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair >
System Flushing > Page 7844
a. With bleeder hose connected to rearward bleeder valve on hydraulic modulator, slowly open
bleeder valve and allow fluid to flow until no air
is seen in fluid.
b. Close valve when fluid flows without any air bubbles. Reopen and repeat until no air bubbles
exist. c. Relocate bleeder hose on the forward bleeder valve on the hydraulic modulator and repeat
Steps 3 through 4b. Tighten Hydraulic modulator
bleeder valve to 9 Nm (80 inch lbs.).
NOTE: Use a shop cloth to catch escaping brake fluid. Take care to prevent fluid from running
down motor pack and into the bottom or electrical connector. A bleeder hose is not used to bleed
brake pipe connections.
5. Proceed to bleed the hydraulic modulator brake pipe connections as follows with pressure
bleeding equipment connected and pressurized.
a. Slowly open forward brake pipe tube nut on hydraulic modulator and check for air in escaping
fluid. b. When air flow ceases, immediately tighten tube nut. Tighten Tube nut to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.).
c. Repeat Steps 5a and 5b for remaining three brake pipe connections, moving from front to rear.
6. Raise vehicle and suitably support. 7. Proceed as follows to bleed wheel brakes in sequence.
Bleed sequence:
- Right rear.
- Left rear.
- Right front.
- Left front.
a. Attach bleeder hose to bleeder valve and submerge opposite hose end in clean container
partially filled with brake fluid. b. Slowly open bleeder valve and allow fluid to flow. c. Close valve
when fluid begins to flow without any air bubbles. Tap lightly with a rubber mallet to dislodge any
trapped air bubbles.
8. Repeat above sequence on left rear wheel brake. 9. Repeat above sequence on front wheel
brakes.
10. Lower vehicle. 11. Remove bleeder adapter J 35589. 12. Check fluid level in reservoir and fill to
the correct level using clean brake fluid, if necessary. 13. Install fluid reservoir cover and
diaphragm assembly. Inspect With the ignition switch in the "RUN" position, apply brake pedal with
moderate
force and hold. Note pedal travel and feel. If pedal feels firm and constant and pedal travel is not
excessive, start the engine. With the engine running, re-check the pedal travel. If it's still firm and
constant and pedal travel is not excessive, go to Step 13. If pedal feels soft or has excessive travel
either initially or after engine start. Use the Scan Tool, "Release" then "Apply" the motors 2 to 3
times and cycle the solenoids 5 to 10 times. Be sure to "Apply" the front and rear motors to ensure
the pistons are in the upmost position. Now repeat bleeding procedure.
14. Road test the vehicle. Make several normal (non-ABS) stops from a moderate speed to ensure
proper brake system function.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Pedal Assy > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Brake Pedal Assy: > 01-05-22-001 > Jan > 01 > Brake Pedal - Clunk/Rattle Noise
Brake Pedal Assy: Customer Interest Brake Pedal - Clunk/Rattle Noise
File In Section: 05 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 01-05-22-001
Date: January, 2001
TECHNICAL
Subject: Clunk, Rattle Noise from Front of Vehicle (Replace Brake Pedal Assembly)
Models: 1997-2001 Chevrolet Malibu 1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999-2001 Oldsmobile Alero
1999-2001 Pontiac Grand Am with Automatic Transmission
Built Prior to the VIN Breakpoints shown.
Condition
Some customers may comment on a rattle or clunk type noise coming from the underbody or front
suspension.
Cause
The brake pedal pivot pin bushing may cause this condition.
Correction
Diagnose condition prior to replacing the brake pedal assembly by putting light side pressure on
the brake pedal with your foot and applying the brakes. If the noise is no longer present, replace
the existing brake pedal assembly with a new assembly, P/N 22672398. If the noise is still present,
re-evaluate the condition using diagnostic information in the appropriate Service Manual. Follow
the service procedure listed below to replace the brake pedal assembly.
1. Remove left sound insulator panel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Pedal Assy > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Brake Pedal Assy: > 01-05-22-001 > Jan > 01 > Brake Pedal - Clunk/Rattle Noise
> Page 7853
2. Depress the accelerator control cable (1) tangs from the pedal lever assembly.
3. Remove the accelerator control cable from the pedal lever assembly.
4. Disconnect the brake pedal pushrod (1) from the brake pedal (2).
5. Disconnect the electrical connector from the stop lamp switch.
6. Remove the stop tamp switch (5) from the brake pedal bracket by grasping the switch and
turning it go degrees counter clockwise while pulling
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Pedal Assy > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Brake Pedal Assy: > 01-05-22-001 > Jan > 01 > Brake Pedal - Clunk/Rattle Noise
> Page 7854
toward the rear of the vehicle.
7. Disconnect the electrical connector from the cruise release switch.
8. Remove the cruise release switch (3) from the brake pedal bracket by grasping the switch and
turning it 90 degrees counter clockwise while pulling toward the rear of the vehicle.
9. Disconnect the electrical harness from the brake pedal bracket.
10. Remove the upper (1) and the lower (2) mounting nuts from the brake pedal assembly.
11. Remove the brake pedal assembly.
12. Install the brake pedal assembly into position.
13. Install the upper and the lower mounting nuts to the brake pedal assembly.
Tighten
Tighten the mounting nuts to 27 Nm (20 lb ft).
14. Connect the brake pedal pushrod to the brake pedal.
15. Connect the electrical harness to the brake pedal bracket.
16. Insert the stop lamp switch and cruise release switch into their containers until the switch body
is seated on the retainer.
17. Connect the electrical connectors to the stop lamp switch and cruise release switch.
Important:
Adjust the stop lamp switch and cruise release switch at the same time. The adjustment
procedures for the switches are identical.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Pedal Assy > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Brake Pedal Assy: > 01-05-22-001 > Jan > 01 > Brake Pedal - Clunk/Rattle Noise
> Page 7855
18. Adjust the stop lamp switch and cruise release switch.
18.1. Pull the brake pedal (4) upward against the internal pedal stop.
18.2. Turn the switch 90 degrees clockwise in order to lock the switch into position.
19. Install the accelerator control cable to the pedal lever assembly. Ensure the tangs are fully
expanded and seated.
20. Slip the accelerator control cable through the slot in the rod of the accelerator pedal and install
the retainer in the rod. Ensure the retainer is seated.
21. Check for proper operation of stop lamps and cruise control.
22. Install the left sound insulator panel.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty use the table.
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Pedal Assy > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Pedal Assy: > 01-05-22-001 > Jan > 01 > Brake Pedal Clunk/Rattle Noise
Brake Pedal Assy: All Technical Service Bulletins Brake Pedal - Clunk/Rattle Noise
File In Section: 05 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 01-05-22-001
Date: January, 2001
TECHNICAL
Subject: Clunk, Rattle Noise from Front of Vehicle (Replace Brake Pedal Assembly)
Models: 1997-2001 Chevrolet Malibu 1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999-2001 Oldsmobile Alero
1999-2001 Pontiac Grand Am with Automatic Transmission
Built Prior to the VIN Breakpoints shown.
Condition
Some customers may comment on a rattle or clunk type noise coming from the underbody or front
suspension.
Cause
The brake pedal pivot pin bushing may cause this condition.
Correction
Diagnose condition prior to replacing the brake pedal assembly by putting light side pressure on
the brake pedal with your foot and applying the brakes. If the noise is no longer present, replace
the existing brake pedal assembly with a new assembly, P/N 22672398. If the noise is still present,
re-evaluate the condition using diagnostic information in the appropriate Service Manual. Follow
the service procedure listed below to replace the brake pedal assembly.
1. Remove left sound insulator panel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Pedal Assy > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Pedal Assy: > 01-05-22-001 > Jan > 01 > Brake Pedal Clunk/Rattle Noise > Page 7861
2. Depress the accelerator control cable (1) tangs from the pedal lever assembly.
3. Remove the accelerator control cable from the pedal lever assembly.
4. Disconnect the brake pedal pushrod (1) from the brake pedal (2).
5. Disconnect the electrical connector from the stop lamp switch.
6. Remove the stop tamp switch (5) from the brake pedal bracket by grasping the switch and
turning it go degrees counter clockwise while pulling
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Pedal Assy > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Pedal Assy: > 01-05-22-001 > Jan > 01 > Brake Pedal Clunk/Rattle Noise > Page 7862
toward the rear of the vehicle.
7. Disconnect the electrical connector from the cruise release switch.
8. Remove the cruise release switch (3) from the brake pedal bracket by grasping the switch and
turning it 90 degrees counter clockwise while pulling toward the rear of the vehicle.
9. Disconnect the electrical harness from the brake pedal bracket.
10. Remove the upper (1) and the lower (2) mounting nuts from the brake pedal assembly.
11. Remove the brake pedal assembly.
12. Install the brake pedal assembly into position.
13. Install the upper and the lower mounting nuts to the brake pedal assembly.
Tighten
Tighten the mounting nuts to 27 Nm (20 lb ft).
14. Connect the brake pedal pushrod to the brake pedal.
15. Connect the electrical harness to the brake pedal bracket.
16. Insert the stop lamp switch and cruise release switch into their containers until the switch body
is seated on the retainer.
17. Connect the electrical connectors to the stop lamp switch and cruise release switch.
Important:
Adjust the stop lamp switch and cruise release switch at the same time. The adjustment
procedures for the switches are identical.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Pedal Assy > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Pedal Assy: > 01-05-22-001 > Jan > 01 > Brake Pedal Clunk/Rattle Noise > Page 7863
18. Adjust the stop lamp switch and cruise release switch.
18.1. Pull the brake pedal (4) upward against the internal pedal stop.
18.2. Turn the switch 90 degrees clockwise in order to lock the switch into position.
19. Install the accelerator control cable to the pedal lever assembly. Ensure the tangs are fully
expanded and seated.
20. Slip the accelerator control cable through the slot in the rod of the accelerator pedal and install
the retainer in the rod. Ensure the retainer is seated.
21. Check for proper operation of stop lamps and cruise control.
22. Install the left sound insulator panel.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty use the table.
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Pedal Assy > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Page 7864
Brake Pedal Assy: Specifications
TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS
Brake Pedal To Bracket .......................................................................................................................
................................................. 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Pedal Assy > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Page 7865
Below LH Side Of I/P, Near Steering Column
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Pedal Assy > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Page 7866
Brake Pedal Assy: Testing and Inspection
1. With engine off and key "Off", pump service brake pedal until all reserve is exhausted from the
brake booster. 2. Install J 28662 or equivalent onto the brake pedal. 3. Hook end of tape measure
over top edge of brake pedal and measure the distance to the rim of the steering wheel. 4. Apply
service brake pedal with a firm force (approximately 445 N 100 lbs.) and re-measure. The
difference between both readings is the actual
pedal travel and should not exceed 63 mm (2.5 inches).
5. If pedal travel is greater than 63 mm (2.5 inches) drive the vehicle backward while intermittently
applying the brakes. In rare cases excessive
pedal travel will develop if brakes are only used occasionally when backing up. This will develop
when the vehicle is only occasionally driven in reverse. Duo-Servo self-adjusting mechanisms will
only actuate when the brakes are applied in reverse.
NOTE: Most low pedal problems are caused by air in the hydraulic system. This means that the
system should be bled until all air is purged. Other less frequent causes of excessive pedal travel
are incorrect brake booster push-rod length, improperly adjusted parking brake, rear shoe adjusters
not functioning, shoes excessively worn, and hydraulic system leakage.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Pedal Assy > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Page 7867
Brake Pedal Assy: Service and Repair
Description
Remove or Disconnect
1. Left sound insulator. 2. Rotate switch counterclockwise to remove from retainer in bracket 3.
Wiring harness connectors.
Install or Connect
1. Wiring harness to switch. 2. Retainer into bracket (from forward side). 3. With brake pedal
depressed, insert switch into retainer until switch seats on retainer. 4. Rotate switch clockwise to
lock.
Adjust A. Pull brake pedal fully rearward against pedal stop until audible clicks can not be heard. B.
Switch will be moved in retainer providing adjustment. C. Release brake pedal and repeat Step A
to assure that switch is properly adjusted.
5. Wiring harness connector(s). 6. Sound insulator
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Brake Warning Indicator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7872
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7873
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7874
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7875
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7876
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7877
Brake Warning Indicator: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7878
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7879
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7880
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7881
insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7897
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7898
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7899
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7900
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7901
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7902
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7903
Brake Warning
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Description and Operation > Brake Indicator
Brake Warning Indicator: Description and Operation Brake Indicator
The BRAKE warning indicator (red) will be illuminated when the Ignition Switch is in RUN position
and the Park Brake is engaged. The BRAKE indicator will illuminate when the Electronic Brake
Control Module (EBCM) transmits a Class 2 message (0 the Body Function Controller (BFC)
indicating there has been a Brake Fail Condition. The Body Function Controller (BFC) will then
command the BRAKE indicator ON over the Serial Peripheral interface (SPI) data line to the
instrument Cluster. in the event of a Class 2 serial data loss the BRAKE indicator will illuminate. in
the event of an Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) data link failure, the BRAKE indicator will not
illuminate unless the indicator was illuminated prior to the Serial Peripheral interface (SPI) data link
failure.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Description and Operation > Brake Indicator > Page 7906
Brake Warning Indicator: Description and Operation General Description
The standard brake system uses a single red "BRAKE" warning light located in the instrument
panel cluster. When the ignition switch is in the "Start" position, the "BRAKE" warning light should
glow and go off when the ignition switch returns to the "Run" position. The following conditions will
activate the "BRAKE" light:
1. Parking brake applied. The light should be on whenever the parking brake is applied and the
ignition switch is on. 2. Low fluid level. A low fluid level in the master cylinder will turn the "BRAKE"
light on.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Specifications
Brake Caliper: Specifications
Caliper Bleeding Screw 115 in.lb
Caliper Bracket to Knuckle Bolts 85 ft.lb
Caliper Guide Pin Bolts 23 ft.lb
Caliper Inlet Fitting 37 ft.lb
Caliper Mounting Bolt to Caliper Bracket 23 ft.lb
Caliper Bore Diameter Front 2.36 in
Caliper Bore Diameter Rear 1.50 in
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 7911
Brake Caliper: Description and Operation
This caliper has a single bore and is mounted to the steering knuckle with two mounting bolts.
Hydraulic pressure, created by applying the brake pedal, is converted by the caliper to a stopping
force. This force acts equally against the caliper piston and the bottom of the caliper bore to move
the piston: outward and to move (slide) the caliper inward resulting in a clamping action on the
rotor. This clamping action forces the linings against the rotor, creating friction to stop the vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Replacement
Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Replacement
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove 2/3 of brake fluid from master cylinder assembly. 2. Raise vehicle and suitably support.
Mark relationship of wheel to hub and bearing assembly, to insure proper wheel balance upon
reassembly. 3. Tire and wheel assembly. Reinstall two wheel nuts to retain rotor to hub and
bearing assembly.
4. Push piston into caliper bore to provide clearance between linings and rotor. Install a large
C-clamp over the top of the caliper housing and against
the back of the outboard pad. Slowly tighten C-clamp until piston is pushed into the caliper bore
enough to slide the caliper assembly off rotor. An alternate method used to compress the caliper
piston is to use a large adjustable pliers to compress piston when caliper has been removed from
rotor and is supported as shown.
5. Bolt attaching inlet fitting only when caliper is to be removed from vehicle for unit repair
(overhaul). If only brake pads are being replaced, there
is no need to disconnect inlet fitting. Plug exposed inlet fitting into caliper housing and brake hose
to prevent fluid loss and contamination.
Caliper Mounting
6. Caliper mounting bolts and sleeve assemblies.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Replacement > Page 7914
Disc Brake Caliper Assembly
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Replacement > Page 7915
7. Caliper from rotor and caliper bracket. Do not let caliper hang from brake hose. Damage may
occur. If the caliper assembly is not being removed
from the vehicle for unit repair, suspend the caliper with a wire hook from the strut as shown.
Inspect Mounting bolts and sleeve assemblies for corrosion. Bushings for cuts or nicks. If damage
to either part is found, replace with new parts when installing caliper. Do not attempt to polish away
corrosion.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Liberally coat inside diameter of bushings with silicone grease. 2. Mounting bolts and sleeve
assemblies. 3. Caliper over rotor on to caliper bracket. Tighten Mounting bolt and sleeve
assemblies to 51 Nm (38 ft. lbs.). 4. Inlet fitting, if removed. Tighten Inlet fitting to 50 Nm (37 ft.
lbs.). 5. Remove wheel nuts securing rotor to hub and bearing assembly. 6. Wheel and tire,
aligning previous marks. 7. Lower the vehicle. 8. Torque wheel nuts. 9. Fill master cylinder to
proper level with clean brake fluid. Bleed brake system if inlet fitting was removed. Recheck fluid
level. Recheck brake
pedal feel. If brake "Spongyness" is present. See: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Replacement > Page 7916
Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Overhaul
DISASSEMBLE
1. Remove caliper completely from vehicle. 2. Bushings. Inspect Bushings for cuts and nicks.
Replace if damaged.
CAUTION: On the following procedure do not place fingers in front of the piston in an attempt to
catch or protect it when applying compressed air. This could result in serious injury.
NOTE: Use clean shop towels to pad the interior of the caliper housing during removal.
3. Piston using compressed air into the caliper inlet hole. Inspect Piston for scoring, nicks,
corrosion and worn or damaged chrome plating. Replace
piston if any of these conditions are found.
4. Boot from caliper housing bore. Be careful not to scratch housing bore.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Replacement > Page 7917
5. Piston seal from seal groove in caliper housing bore with a small wood or plastic tool.
NOTE: Do not use a metal tool since this may damage caliper bore or seal groove.
6. Inspect Caliper housing bore and seal groove for scoring, nicks, corrosion and wear. Use crocus
cloth to polish out light corrosion. Replace caliper
housing if corrosion in and around seal groove will not clean up with crocus cloth.
7. Bleeder valve and bleeder valve cap from caliper. Clean All parts in clean, denatured alcohol.
Dry with unlubricated compressed air. Blow out all
passages in caliper housing and bleeder valve.
ASSEMBLE
1. Bleeder valve and bleeder valve cap into caliper. Tighten Bleeder valve to 13 Nm (115 inch lbs.).
2. Lubricate new piston seal and install into caliper bore groove. Make sure seal is not twisted. 3.
Lubricated boot onto piston.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Replacement > Page 7918
4. Piston and boot into bore of caliper and push to bottom of bore. 5. Seat boot in caliper housing
counter bore. 6. Bushings. Lubricate beveled end of bushing with silicone grease, GM P/N
1052863 or equivalent. Pinch bushing and install bevel end first. Push
bushing through housing mounting bore.
7. Caliper.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Replacement > Page 7919
Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Caliper Bracket Assembly Replacement
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Caliper assembly.
2. Knuckle bracket.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Knuckle bracket. 2. Caliper assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-05-23-002B > Mar > 03 > Brakes - Front Disc Brake Pulsation
Brake Pad: Customer Interest Brakes - Front Disc Brake Pulsation
File In Section: 05 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 00-05-23-002B
Date: March, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Front Disc Brake Pulsation (New Rotor Run-Out Specification and Correction Method)
Models: 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1999-2003 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin is being revised to add model years and update the correction information.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-05-23-002A (Section 5 - Brakes).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a pulsation condition felt in the brake pedal and/or steering
wheel during a brake apply. In some cases, it may be noted that the pulsation condition has
reoccurred in 5,000-11,000 km (3,000-7,000 mi) after having had the brakes serviced, tires rotated
or any type of servicing that required wheel removal.
Cause
Pulsation is the result of brake rotor thickness variation causing the brake caliper piston to move in
and out of the brake caliper housing. This hydraulic "pumping/pulsing" effect is transmitted through
the brake system and may be felt in the brake pedal. In severe cases, this condition may also
transmit through the vehicle structure and other chassis system components such as the steering
column or wheel. The major contributor to rotor thickness variation is excessive lateral run-out of
the rotor, causing the brake pads to wear the rotor unevenly over time.
Correction
Important:
All vehicles built since March 2000 have been built with the updated brake pad. Unless the brake
pads are worn past the given specifications, the brake pads should be not replaced.
FOR 2000 AND PRIOR MODEL YEAR VEHICLES ONLY: Confirm that the brake pads have the
number 1417 printed on the edge of the pad backing plate (refer to the illustration - glass cleaner
can be used to
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-05-23-002B > Mar > 03 > Brakes - Front Disc Brake Pulsation > Page
7928
clean the area so that the print is visible). This indicates the correct brake pads have been
previously installed. The brake pads contained in Front Pad Kit, P/N 18044437 are the only brake
pads that should be used on these vehicles. If the number 1417 is not present, or if the number is
not legible, replace the brake pads. If the correct pads were previously installed, verify the brake
pad thickness. If the brake pad friction material thickness is 4.6 mm (0.18 in) or greater, re-use the
pads. If the friction material thickness is less than 4.6 mm (0.18 in), install new brake pads
contained in Front Pad kit, P/N 18044437.
If the rotor thickness is less than 25 mm (0.98 in), install a new rotor. If rotor thickness is greater
than 25 mm (0.98 in), refinish the rotor.
Replace existing front brake rotors and pads, if necessary, with new components indicated in the
table following the applicable Service Manual procedures and the service guidelines contained in
Corporate Bulletin Number 00-05-22-002.
Important
^ The brake pad with the wear indicator must be installed in the inner position (against the piston in
the caliper). When properly installed. the wear indicator will be pointing up with the caliper installed
on the car (Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 01-05-23-005).
^ If the pad with the wear indicator must be installed in the outboard position, reduced front brake
lining life or interference between the compact spare tire and brake caliper may occur
^ Anytime a new or refinished rotor is installed on a vehicle, the rotor must have.040 mm (.0015 in)
or less of lateral run-out. This specification is important to prevent comebacks for brake pulsation
and is a tighter specification than specified for other vehicle models.
GM has approved a new technology for the correction of lateral run-out on new or refinished rotors.
This new method is called *"Brake Align(R)". It will allow the technician to meet the .040 mm (.0015
in) or less requirement for lateral run-out by installing a specially selected tapered correction plate
between the rotor and the hub (Reference Corporate Bulletin Number 01-05-23-001).
* We believe this source and their products to be reliable There may be additional manufacturers of
such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any
responsibility for the products from this firm or for any such items which may be available from
other sources.
1. Machine the existing rotors on an approved, well-maintained brake lathe to guarantee smooth,
flat, and parallel surfaces. Replace the rotors if they do not meet the minimum thickness
specification. DO NOT MACHINE NEW ROTORS.
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Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-05-23-002B > Mar > 03 > Brakes - Front Disc Brake Pulsation > Page
7929
2. Ensure that all the mating surfaces of the rotor and the hub are clean using the J 42450-A,
Wheel Hub Cleaning Kit, to clean around the wheel studs. Use the J 41013, Wheel Hub
Resurfacing Kit, to clean the mating surface of the rotor and bearing hub. Mount the new or
refinished rotor onto the vehicle hub and secure using Conical Retaining Washers, J 45101-100
and the existing wheel nuts. Do not install the calipers and the wheels at this time.
Tighten
Tighten the wheel nuts in a star pattern to 140 N.m (100 lb ft) using J 39544, Torque Socket or
equivalent.
3. Fasten a dial indicator to the steering knuckle so that the indicator needle contacts the rotor
outboard friction surface approximately 12.7 mm (0.5 in) from the rotor's outer edge.
4. Rotate the rotor and measure the total lateral run-out.
5. Based on the measurement taken in the previous step, proceed as indicated below:
^ Lateral run-out LESS than or equal to .040 mm (.0015 in), remove wheel nuts and conical
washers and then proceed to Step 11.
^ Lateral run-out GREATER than .040 mm (.0015 in), proceed to the next step.
6. Following procedure below, determine the correct "Brake Align(R)" Correction Plate" that will be
required to bring lateral run-out within the specification:
6.1. Rotate the rotor and locate the point on the rotor where the lowest dial indicator reading is
indicated and set the dial indicator to zero.
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Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-05-23-002B > Mar > 03 > Brakes - Front Disc Brake Pulsation > Page
7930
6.2. Rotate the rotor and locate the point with the highest dial indicator reading (rotor "high spot").
6.3. Note the amount and location of the "high spot" on the rotor and mark the closest wheel stud
relative to this location.
7. Select the appropriate "Brake Align(R) Correction Plate" required to compensate for the lateral
run-out from the plates listed in the chart below. Verify that the plate selected corrects the run-out
specification to within .040 mm (.0015 in) or less.
8. Remove the wheel nuts, conical washers and rotor.
Important:
Never attempt to stack two or more Correction Plates together on one hub. Never attempt to re-use
a previously installed Correction Plate.
9. Following the Brake Align(R) procedures and diagram, install the Correction Plate onto the
vehicle between the hub and rotor. The V-notch in the Correction Plate is to be installed and
aligned with the noted location of the "high spot" on the vehicle hub and marked wheel stud.
10. Install the rotor onto the vehicle with the Correction Plate placed between the hub and the rotor.
Be sure to install the rotor onto the hub in the same location as identified in Step 6.3.
11. Re-install the calipers and wheels.
Important
It is critical to follow the procedure below for torquing the wheels. Brake rotors may be distorted if
the wheel nuts are tightened with an impact wrench or if this procedure is not followed exactly.
Tighten
Tighten the wheel nuts to 140 N.m (100 lb ft) with a TORQUE WRENCH following the three step
method shown.
^ Hand tighten all 5 wheel nuts using the star pattern (refer to the illustration).
^ Tighten all 5 wheel nuts to approximately 1/2 specification using the star pattern.
^ Tighten all 5 wheel nuts to 140 N.m (100 lb ft) using the star pattern.
12. Fasten a dial indicator to the steering knuckle so that the indicator needle contacts the rotor
inboard friction surface approximately 12.7 mm (0.5 in) from the rotors's outer edge.
13. Rotate the wheel on the opposite side of the vehicle and confirm that lateral run-out is less than
or equal to .040 mm (.0015 in). If run-out is less than or equal to.040 mm (.0015 in), proceed to
Step 14. if run-out is greater than .040 mm (.0015 in), remove the wheel and secure the rotor using
conical retaining washers J 45101-100 and the existing wheel nuts. Measure run-out following
Steps 3 and 4 above to ensure that the right correction plate was selected and properly installed. If
run-out is within specification, reinstall the wheel making sure to use the three step tightening
procedure in Step 11 and check run-out per Steps 12 and 13. If run-out is still out of specification,
index the wheel or install a wheel from another position on the car until the correct run-out
specification is achieved
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Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-05-23-002B > Mar > 03 > Brakes - Front Disc Brake Pulsation > Page
7931
14. Road test the car to verify the repairs.
For vehicles repaired under warranty Brake Align(R)
Run-Out Correction Plates should be submitted in Net Amount at cost plus 40%.
Brake Align(R) Run-Out Correction Plates are available through the following suppliers:
^ Dealer Equipment and Service
^ Brake Align(R) LLC
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-05-23-001 > Feb > 99 > Brakes - Squealing Noise Coming From
Front
Brake Pad: Customer Interest Brakes - Squealing Noise Coming From Front
File In Section: 05 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 99-05-23-001
Date: February, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Squealing Noise Coming from Front Brakes (Install New Brake Pads)
Models: 1997-99 Chevrolet Malibu 1997-99 Oldsmobile Cutlass
This bulletin is being revised to update the model year, service procedure and parts Information.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 73-50-08 (Section 5 - Brakes).
Condition
Some owners may comment on a squealing noise coming from the front brakes.
Correction
Replace the front disc brake pads, P/N 18024383.
Refer to the Brake Section in the Service Manual.
Revised pads have an enhanced noise insulator material on the back of each brake pad.
Important:
EVERY brake service should include cleaning and lubing all metal contact points (i.e. caliper to
knuckle, pad to knuckle, etc.). Also, correct clearances must be checked.
Parts Information
Part Number Description
18024383 Front Brake Pad Kit
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description Labor Time
Pads, Disc Brake - R & R Use published
H0042 labor
or Replace operation time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 735008 > Apr > 97 > Brakes - Squealing Noise, New Front Pads
Brake Pad: Customer Interest Brakes - Squealing Noise, New Front Pads
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-08
Date: April, 1997
Subject: Squealing Noise Coming From Front Brakes (Install New Brake Pads)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
Condition
Some owners may comment on a squealing noise coming from the front brakes.
Correction
Replace the front disc brake pads, P/N 18026184. Refer to Section 5B1 in the Service Manual.
Revised pads have an enhanced noise insulator material on the back of each brake pad.
Important:
DO NOT resurface brake rotors. Replace brake rotors if there is a pulsation concern.
Important:
EVERY brake service should include cleaning and lubing all metal to metal contact points (i.e.;
caliper to knuckle, pad to knuckle, etc.). Also, correct clearances must be checked.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
H0042 Use published labor
operation time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Pad: > 00-05-23-002B > Mar > 03 > Brakes - Front
Disc Brake Pulsation
Brake Pad: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Front Disc Brake Pulsation
File In Section: 05 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 00-05-23-002B
Date: March, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Front Disc Brake Pulsation (New Rotor Run-Out Specification and Correction Method)
Models: 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1999-2003 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin is being revised to add model years and update the correction information.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-05-23-002A (Section 5 - Brakes).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a pulsation condition felt in the brake pedal and/or steering
wheel during a brake apply. In some cases, it may be noted that the pulsation condition has
reoccurred in 5,000-11,000 km (3,000-7,000 mi) after having had the brakes serviced, tires rotated
or any type of servicing that required wheel removal.
Cause
Pulsation is the result of brake rotor thickness variation causing the brake caliper piston to move in
and out of the brake caliper housing. This hydraulic "pumping/pulsing" effect is transmitted through
the brake system and may be felt in the brake pedal. In severe cases, this condition may also
transmit through the vehicle structure and other chassis system components such as the steering
column or wheel. The major contributor to rotor thickness variation is excessive lateral run-out of
the rotor, causing the brake pads to wear the rotor unevenly over time.
Correction
Important:
All vehicles built since March 2000 have been built with the updated brake pad. Unless the brake
pads are worn past the given specifications, the brake pads should be not replaced.
FOR 2000 AND PRIOR MODEL YEAR VEHICLES ONLY: Confirm that the brake pads have the
number 1417 printed on the edge of the pad backing plate (refer to the illustration - glass cleaner
can be used to
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Pad: > 00-05-23-002B > Mar > 03 > Brakes - Front
Disc Brake Pulsation > Page 7945
clean the area so that the print is visible). This indicates the correct brake pads have been
previously installed. The brake pads contained in Front Pad Kit, P/N 18044437 are the only brake
pads that should be used on these vehicles. If the number 1417 is not present, or if the number is
not legible, replace the brake pads. If the correct pads were previously installed, verify the brake
pad thickness. If the brake pad friction material thickness is 4.6 mm (0.18 in) or greater, re-use the
pads. If the friction material thickness is less than 4.6 mm (0.18 in), install new brake pads
contained in Front Pad kit, P/N 18044437.
If the rotor thickness is less than 25 mm (0.98 in), install a new rotor. If rotor thickness is greater
than 25 mm (0.98 in), refinish the rotor.
Replace existing front brake rotors and pads, if necessary, with new components indicated in the
table following the applicable Service Manual procedures and the service guidelines contained in
Corporate Bulletin Number 00-05-22-002.
Important
^ The brake pad with the wear indicator must be installed in the inner position (against the piston in
the caliper). When properly installed. the wear indicator will be pointing up with the caliper installed
on the car (Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 01-05-23-005).
^ If the pad with the wear indicator must be installed in the outboard position, reduced front brake
lining life or interference between the compact spare tire and brake caliper may occur
^ Anytime a new or refinished rotor is installed on a vehicle, the rotor must have.040 mm (.0015 in)
or less of lateral run-out. This specification is important to prevent comebacks for brake pulsation
and is a tighter specification than specified for other vehicle models.
GM has approved a new technology for the correction of lateral run-out on new or refinished rotors.
This new method is called *"Brake Align(R)". It will allow the technician to meet the .040 mm (.0015
in) or less requirement for lateral run-out by installing a specially selected tapered correction plate
between the rotor and the hub (Reference Corporate Bulletin Number 01-05-23-001).
* We believe this source and their products to be reliable There may be additional manufacturers of
such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any
responsibility for the products from this firm or for any such items which may be available from
other sources.
1. Machine the existing rotors on an approved, well-maintained brake lathe to guarantee smooth,
flat, and parallel surfaces. Replace the rotors if they do not meet the minimum thickness
specification. DO NOT MACHINE NEW ROTORS.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Pad: > 00-05-23-002B > Mar > 03 > Brakes - Front
Disc Brake Pulsation > Page 7946
2. Ensure that all the mating surfaces of the rotor and the hub are clean using the J 42450-A,
Wheel Hub Cleaning Kit, to clean around the wheel studs. Use the J 41013, Wheel Hub
Resurfacing Kit, to clean the mating surface of the rotor and bearing hub. Mount the new or
refinished rotor onto the vehicle hub and secure using Conical Retaining Washers, J 45101-100
and the existing wheel nuts. Do not install the calipers and the wheels at this time.
Tighten
Tighten the wheel nuts in a star pattern to 140 N.m (100 lb ft) using J 39544, Torque Socket or
equivalent.
3. Fasten a dial indicator to the steering knuckle so that the indicator needle contacts the rotor
outboard friction surface approximately 12.7 mm (0.5 in) from the rotor's outer edge.
4. Rotate the rotor and measure the total lateral run-out.
5. Based on the measurement taken in the previous step, proceed as indicated below:
^ Lateral run-out LESS than or equal to .040 mm (.0015 in), remove wheel nuts and conical
washers and then proceed to Step 11.
^ Lateral run-out GREATER than .040 mm (.0015 in), proceed to the next step.
6. Following procedure below, determine the correct "Brake Align(R)" Correction Plate" that will be
required to bring lateral run-out within the specification:
6.1. Rotate the rotor and locate the point on the rotor where the lowest dial indicator reading is
indicated and set the dial indicator to zero.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Pad: > 00-05-23-002B > Mar > 03 > Brakes - Front
Disc Brake Pulsation > Page 7947
6.2. Rotate the rotor and locate the point with the highest dial indicator reading (rotor "high spot").
6.3. Note the amount and location of the "high spot" on the rotor and mark the closest wheel stud
relative to this location.
7. Select the appropriate "Brake Align(R) Correction Plate" required to compensate for the lateral
run-out from the plates listed in the chart below. Verify that the plate selected corrects the run-out
specification to within .040 mm (.0015 in) or less.
8. Remove the wheel nuts, conical washers and rotor.
Important:
Never attempt to stack two or more Correction Plates together on one hub. Never attempt to re-use
a previously installed Correction Plate.
9. Following the Brake Align(R) procedures and diagram, install the Correction Plate onto the
vehicle between the hub and rotor. The V-notch in the Correction Plate is to be installed and
aligned with the noted location of the "high spot" on the vehicle hub and marked wheel stud.
10. Install the rotor onto the vehicle with the Correction Plate placed between the hub and the rotor.
Be sure to install the rotor onto the hub in the same location as identified in Step 6.3.
11. Re-install the calipers and wheels.
Important
It is critical to follow the procedure below for torquing the wheels. Brake rotors may be distorted if
the wheel nuts are tightened with an impact wrench or if this procedure is not followed exactly.
Tighten
Tighten the wheel nuts to 140 N.m (100 lb ft) with a TORQUE WRENCH following the three step
method shown.
^ Hand tighten all 5 wheel nuts using the star pattern (refer to the illustration).
^ Tighten all 5 wheel nuts to approximately 1/2 specification using the star pattern.
^ Tighten all 5 wheel nuts to 140 N.m (100 lb ft) using the star pattern.
12. Fasten a dial indicator to the steering knuckle so that the indicator needle contacts the rotor
inboard friction surface approximately 12.7 mm (0.5 in) from the rotors's outer edge.
13. Rotate the wheel on the opposite side of the vehicle and confirm that lateral run-out is less than
or equal to .040 mm (.0015 in). If run-out is less than or equal to.040 mm (.0015 in), proceed to
Step 14. if run-out is greater than .040 mm (.0015 in), remove the wheel and secure the rotor using
conical retaining washers J 45101-100 and the existing wheel nuts. Measure run-out following
Steps 3 and 4 above to ensure that the right correction plate was selected and properly installed. If
run-out is within specification, reinstall the wheel making sure to use the three step tightening
procedure in Step 11 and check run-out per Steps 12 and 13. If run-out is still out of specification,
index the wheel or install a wheel from another position on the car until the correct run-out
specification is achieved
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Pad: > 00-05-23-002B > Mar > 03 > Brakes - Front
Disc Brake Pulsation > Page 7948
14. Road test the car to verify the repairs.
For vehicles repaired under warranty Brake Align(R)
Run-Out Correction Plates should be submitted in Net Amount at cost plus 40%.
Brake Align(R) Run-Out Correction Plates are available through the following suppliers:
^ Dealer Equipment and Service
^ Brake Align(R) LLC
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Pad: > 01-05-23-005 > Apr > 01 > Front Brake Pads Correct Installation Procedure
Brake Pad: All Technical Service Bulletins Front Brake Pads - Correct Installation Procedure
File In Section: 05 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 01-05-23-005
Date: April, 2001
INFORMATION
Subject: Proper Installation of Front Brake Pads with Wear Indicator (Possibility of Reversing Front
Brake Pads)
Models: 1997-2001 Chevrolet Malibu 1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999-2001 Oldsmobile Alero
1999-2001 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin cancels and replaces Corporate Bulletin Number 73-50-34. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 73-50-34 (Section 5 - Brakes).
It may be possible to interchange the outboard and inboard front brake pads on the above vehicles
without obvious concerns at the time of installation. Improper installation of the brake pads may
result in reduced lining life. In addition, possible interference between the compact spare wheel and
the caliper may occur. This interference may be sufficient to prevent the wheel from turning when
the compact spare is installed soon after pad replacement.
Service Information 1997-2001
The following list details concerns with the Service Information contained within the L/N car Service
Manuals. These items will be updated in the Electronic Service Information.
^ The 1997 Chevrolet Malibu and Oldsmobile Cutlass Service Manuals incorrectly state that the
brake pad with the wear indicator should be located on the outboard front brake pad. The
accompanying illustrations are also incorrect.
^ The 1998 Chevrolet Malibu/Oldsmobile Cutlass and the 1999 Service Manual for all four models
contain text which describes correctly the front brake pad replacement procedure and location of
the front brake pads. The accompanying illustrations, however, show the incorrect pad location.
^ The 2000 and 2001 Chevrolet Malibu and Grand Am/Alero Service Manuals contain text which
correctly describes the front brake pad replacement procedure. The accompanying illustrations are
generic and do not indicate the presence of a wear indicator used as part of the pad assembly
Recommendations
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Pad: > 01-05-23-005 > Apr > 01 > Front Brake Pads Correct Installation Procedure > Page 7953
Important:
Service kits include specific right hand and left hand inboard pads. When installing front brake
pads, the pads with the wear indicators must be installed in the inboard position (against the piston)
in the brake caliper. Figure 1, callout (1) shows the proper positioning of the wear indicator. When
the proper inboard pad is installed, the wear indictor will point upward with the caliper installed on
the car. If the pad with the wear indicator is installed in the outboard position, front brake lining life
may be reduced. In addition, interference between the compact spare wheel and the caliper can
occur. This interference may be sufficient to prevent the wheel from turning when the compact
spare is installed.
^ Include a copy of this service bulletin in each affected Service Manual.
^ Provide a copy of this service bulletin to all brake technicians.
^ Provide this information to the dealer personnel responsible for tire and wheel rotations and
repairs.
^ Make checking for the proper location of the brake pads a part of your free brake and safety
inspections on these vehicles. It takes no additional time and will improve customer satisfaction.
Simply identify that the wear indicators are on the inboard pads and are pointed upward.
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Pad: > 99-05-23-001 > Feb > 99 > Brakes Squealing Noise Coming From Front
Brake Pad: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Squealing Noise Coming From Front
File In Section: 05 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 99-05-23-001
Date: February, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Squealing Noise Coming from Front Brakes (Install New Brake Pads)
Models: 1997-99 Chevrolet Malibu 1997-99 Oldsmobile Cutlass
This bulletin is being revised to update the model year, service procedure and parts Information.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 73-50-08 (Section 5 - Brakes).
Condition
Some owners may comment on a squealing noise coming from the front brakes.
Correction
Replace the front disc brake pads, P/N 18024383.
Refer to the Brake Section in the Service Manual.
Revised pads have an enhanced noise insulator material on the back of each brake pad.
Important:
EVERY brake service should include cleaning and lubing all metal contact points (i.e. caliper to
knuckle, pad to knuckle, etc.). Also, correct clearances must be checked.
Parts Information
Part Number Description
18024383 Front Brake Pad Kit
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description Labor Time
Pads, Disc Brake - R & R Use published
H0042 labor
or Replace operation time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Pad: > 735008 > Apr > 97 > Brakes - Squealing
Noise, New Front Pads
Brake Pad: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Squealing Noise, New Front Pads
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-08
Date: April, 1997
Subject: Squealing Noise Coming From Front Brakes (Install New Brake Pads)
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
Condition
Some owners may comment on a squealing noise coming from the front brakes.
Correction
Replace the front disc brake pads, P/N 18026184. Refer to Section 5B1 in the Service Manual.
Revised pads have an enhanced noise insulator material on the back of each brake pad.
Important:
DO NOT resurface brake rotors. Replace brake rotors if there is a pulsation concern.
Important:
EVERY brake service should include cleaning and lubing all metal to metal contact points (i.e.;
caliper to knuckle, pad to knuckle, etc.). Also, correct clearances must be checked.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
H0042 Use published labor
operation time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Brake Pad: > 01-05-23-005 > Apr > 01 > Front Brake Pads Correct Installation Procedure
Brake Pad: All Technical Service Bulletins Front Brake Pads - Correct Installation Procedure
File In Section: 05 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 01-05-23-005
Date: April, 2001
INFORMATION
Subject: Proper Installation of Front Brake Pads with Wear Indicator (Possibility of Reversing Front
Brake Pads)
Models: 1997-2001 Chevrolet Malibu 1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999-2001 Oldsmobile Alero
1999-2001 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin cancels and replaces Corporate Bulletin Number 73-50-34. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 73-50-34 (Section 5 - Brakes).
It may be possible to interchange the outboard and inboard front brake pads on the above vehicles
without obvious concerns at the time of installation. Improper installation of the brake pads may
result in reduced lining life. In addition, possible interference between the compact spare wheel and
the caliper may occur. This interference may be sufficient to prevent the wheel from turning when
the compact spare is installed soon after pad replacement.
Service Information 1997-2001
The following list details concerns with the Service Information contained within the L/N car Service
Manuals. These items will be updated in the Electronic Service Information.
^ The 1997 Chevrolet Malibu and Oldsmobile Cutlass Service Manuals incorrectly state that the
brake pad with the wear indicator should be located on the outboard front brake pad. The
accompanying illustrations are also incorrect.
^ The 1998 Chevrolet Malibu/Oldsmobile Cutlass and the 1999 Service Manual for all four models
contain text which describes correctly the front brake pad replacement procedure and location of
the front brake pads. The accompanying illustrations, however, show the incorrect pad location.
^ The 2000 and 2001 Chevrolet Malibu and Grand Am/Alero Service Manuals contain text which
correctly describes the front brake pad replacement procedure. The accompanying illustrations are
generic and do not indicate the presence of a wear indicator used as part of the pad assembly
Recommendations
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Brake Pad: > 01-05-23-005 > Apr > 01 > Front Brake Pads Correct Installation Procedure > Page 7967
Important:
Service kits include specific right hand and left hand inboard pads. When installing front brake
pads, the pads with the wear indicators must be installed in the inboard position (against the piston)
in the brake caliper. Figure 1, callout (1) shows the proper positioning of the wear indicator. When
the proper inboard pad is installed, the wear indictor will point upward with the caliper installed on
the car. If the pad with the wear indicator is installed in the outboard position, front brake lining life
may be reduced. In addition, interference between the compact spare wheel and the caliper can
occur. This interference may be sufficient to prevent the wheel from turning when the compact
spare is installed.
^ Include a copy of this service bulletin in each affected Service Manual.
^ Provide a copy of this service bulletin to all brake technicians.
^ Provide this information to the dealer personnel responsible for tire and wheel rotations and
repairs.
^ Make checking for the proper location of the brake pads a part of your free brake and safety
inspections on these vehicles. It takes no additional time and will improve customer satisfaction.
Simply identify that the wear indicators are on the inboard pads and are pointed upward.
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7968
Brake Pad: Specifications Minimum Thickness
Minimum Thickness
Wear Limit 0.030 in
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7969
Brake Pad: Testing and Inspection
Inspect the brake linings every 9654 km (6,000 miles) and any time that the tire and wheel
assembly is removed (tire rotation, etc.). Check both ends of the outer pad by looking in at each
end of the caliper. These are the points at which the highest rate of wear normally occurs.
However, at the same time, check the lining thickness on the inner pad to make sure that it has not
worn prematurely. Some inboard pad and linings have a thermal layer against the pad which is
integrally molded with the lining. This extra layer should not be confused with uneven
inboard-outboard lining wear. Look down through the inspection hole in the top of the caliper to
view the inner pad. Replace disc brake pad and lining assemblies whenever the thickness of any
lining is worn to within 0.76 mm (0.030 inches) of the backing plate. In the case of riveted pad and
lining assemblies, replace when the lining is worn to within 0.76 mm (0.030 inches) of any rivet
head. Replace all disc brake pad and lining assemblies at the same time.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7970
Brake Pad: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Brake caliper.
2. Brake pads.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
NOTE: Before installing new brake pads use denatured alcohol to wipe outside surface of piston
boot clean.
1. Bottom piston into caliper bore. Use a C-clamp over caliper housing to drive piston in. Tighten
clamp slowly to drive piston into caliper bore.
Take care not to damage piston or piston boot with C-clamp. An alternate method of driving the
piston in is to use a large adjustable pliers to squeeze the piston into the caliper.
NOTE: After bottoming piston, lift inner edge of boot next to piston and press out any trapped air.
Boot must lay flat. Make sure convolutions are tucked back into place.
2. Inboard and outboard brake pads. Shoe must lay flat against piston. After installing the brake
pads, check that the piston boot is not touching the
brake pad. If there is contact, remove the brake pad and re-seat or re-position the boot.
3. Outboard brake pad with wear sensor at trailing edge of brake pad. During forward wheel
rotation, the back of the brake pad must lay flat against
caliper.
4. Brake caliper. 5. Apply a firm force three times to the brake pedal to seat the linings.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-05-23-002B > Mar > 03 > Brakes - Front Disc Brake
Pulsation
Brake Rotor/Disc: Customer Interest Brakes - Front Disc Brake Pulsation
File In Section: 05 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 00-05-23-002B
Date: March, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Front Disc Brake Pulsation (New Rotor Run-Out Specification and Correction Method)
Models: 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1999-2003 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin is being revised to add model years and update the correction information.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-05-23-002A (Section 5 - Brakes).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a pulsation condition felt in the brake pedal and/or steering
wheel during a brake apply. In some cases, it may be noted that the pulsation condition has
reoccurred in 5,000-11,000 km (3,000-7,000 mi) after having had the brakes serviced, tires rotated
or any type of servicing that required wheel removal.
Cause
Pulsation is the result of brake rotor thickness variation causing the brake caliper piston to move in
and out of the brake caliper housing. This hydraulic "pumping/pulsing" effect is transmitted through
the brake system and may be felt in the brake pedal. In severe cases, this condition may also
transmit through the vehicle structure and other chassis system components such as the steering
column or wheel. The major contributor to rotor thickness variation is excessive lateral run-out of
the rotor, causing the brake pads to wear the rotor unevenly over time.
Correction
Important:
All vehicles built since March 2000 have been built with the updated brake pad. Unless the brake
pads are worn past the given specifications, the brake pads should be not replaced.
FOR 2000 AND PRIOR MODEL YEAR VEHICLES ONLY: Confirm that the brake pads have the
number 1417 printed on the edge of the pad backing plate (refer to the illustration - glass cleaner
can be used to
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-05-23-002B > Mar > 03 > Brakes - Front Disc Brake
Pulsation > Page 7979
clean the area so that the print is visible). This indicates the correct brake pads have been
previously installed. The brake pads contained in Front Pad Kit, P/N 18044437 are the only brake
pads that should be used on these vehicles. If the number 1417 is not present, or if the number is
not legible, replace the brake pads. If the correct pads were previously installed, verify the brake
pad thickness. If the brake pad friction material thickness is 4.6 mm (0.18 in) or greater, re-use the
pads. If the friction material thickness is less than 4.6 mm (0.18 in), install new brake pads
contained in Front Pad kit, P/N 18044437.
If the rotor thickness is less than 25 mm (0.98 in), install a new rotor. If rotor thickness is greater
than 25 mm (0.98 in), refinish the rotor.
Replace existing front brake rotors and pads, if necessary, with new components indicated in the
table following the applicable Service Manual procedures and the service guidelines contained in
Corporate Bulletin Number 00-05-22-002.
Important
^ The brake pad with the wear indicator must be installed in the inner position (against the piston in
the caliper). When properly installed. the wear indicator will be pointing up with the caliper installed
on the car (Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 01-05-23-005).
^ If the pad with the wear indicator must be installed in the outboard position, reduced front brake
lining life or interference between the compact spare tire and brake caliper may occur
^ Anytime a new or refinished rotor is installed on a vehicle, the rotor must have.040 mm (.0015 in)
or less of lateral run-out. This specification is important to prevent comebacks for brake pulsation
and is a tighter specification than specified for other vehicle models.
GM has approved a new technology for the correction of lateral run-out on new or refinished rotors.
This new method is called *"Brake Align(R)". It will allow the technician to meet the .040 mm (.0015
in) or less requirement for lateral run-out by installing a specially selected tapered correction plate
between the rotor and the hub (Reference Corporate Bulletin Number 01-05-23-001).
* We believe this source and their products to be reliable There may be additional manufacturers of
such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any
responsibility for the products from this firm or for any such items which may be available from
other sources.
1. Machine the existing rotors on an approved, well-maintained brake lathe to guarantee smooth,
flat, and parallel surfaces. Replace the rotors if they do not meet the minimum thickness
specification. DO NOT MACHINE NEW ROTORS.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-05-23-002B > Mar > 03 > Brakes - Front Disc Brake
Pulsation > Page 7980
2. Ensure that all the mating surfaces of the rotor and the hub are clean using the J 42450-A,
Wheel Hub Cleaning Kit, to clean around the wheel studs. Use the J 41013, Wheel Hub
Resurfacing Kit, to clean the mating surface of the rotor and bearing hub. Mount the new or
refinished rotor onto the vehicle hub and secure using Conical Retaining Washers, J 45101-100
and the existing wheel nuts. Do not install the calipers and the wheels at this time.
Tighten
Tighten the wheel nuts in a star pattern to 140 N.m (100 lb ft) using J 39544, Torque Socket or
equivalent.
3. Fasten a dial indicator to the steering knuckle so that the indicator needle contacts the rotor
outboard friction surface approximately 12.7 mm (0.5 in) from the rotor's outer edge.
4. Rotate the rotor and measure the total lateral run-out.
5. Based on the measurement taken in the previous step, proceed as indicated below:
^ Lateral run-out LESS than or equal to .040 mm (.0015 in), remove wheel nuts and conical
washers and then proceed to Step 11.
^ Lateral run-out GREATER than .040 mm (.0015 in), proceed to the next step.
6. Following procedure below, determine the correct "Brake Align(R)" Correction Plate" that will be
required to bring lateral run-out within the specification:
6.1. Rotate the rotor and locate the point on the rotor where the lowest dial indicator reading is
indicated and set the dial indicator to zero.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-05-23-002B > Mar > 03 > Brakes - Front Disc Brake
Pulsation > Page 7981
6.2. Rotate the rotor and locate the point with the highest dial indicator reading (rotor "high spot").
6.3. Note the amount and location of the "high spot" on the rotor and mark the closest wheel stud
relative to this location.
7. Select the appropriate "Brake Align(R) Correction Plate" required to compensate for the lateral
run-out from the plates listed in the chart below. Verify that the plate selected corrects the run-out
specification to within .040 mm (.0015 in) or less.
8. Remove the wheel nuts, conical washers and rotor.
Important:
Never attempt to stack two or more Correction Plates together on one hub. Never attempt to re-use
a previously installed Correction Plate.
9. Following the Brake Align(R) procedures and diagram, install the Correction Plate onto the
vehicle between the hub and rotor. The V-notch in the Correction Plate is to be installed and
aligned with the noted location of the "high spot" on the vehicle hub and marked wheel stud.
10. Install the rotor onto the vehicle with the Correction Plate placed between the hub and the rotor.
Be sure to install the rotor onto the hub in the same location as identified in Step 6.3.
11. Re-install the calipers and wheels.
Important
It is critical to follow the procedure below for torquing the wheels. Brake rotors may be distorted if
the wheel nuts are tightened with an impact wrench or if this procedure is not followed exactly.
Tighten
Tighten the wheel nuts to 140 N.m (100 lb ft) with a TORQUE WRENCH following the three step
method shown.
^ Hand tighten all 5 wheel nuts using the star pattern (refer to the illustration).
^ Tighten all 5 wheel nuts to approximately 1/2 specification using the star pattern.
^ Tighten all 5 wheel nuts to 140 N.m (100 lb ft) using the star pattern.
12. Fasten a dial indicator to the steering knuckle so that the indicator needle contacts the rotor
inboard friction surface approximately 12.7 mm (0.5 in) from the rotors's outer edge.
13. Rotate the wheel on the opposite side of the vehicle and confirm that lateral run-out is less than
or equal to .040 mm (.0015 in). If run-out is less than or equal to.040 mm (.0015 in), proceed to
Step 14. if run-out is greater than .040 mm (.0015 in), remove the wheel and secure the rotor using
conical retaining washers J 45101-100 and the existing wheel nuts. Measure run-out following
Steps 3 and 4 above to ensure that the right correction plate was selected and properly installed. If
run-out is within specification, reinstall the wheel making sure to use the three step tightening
procedure in Step 11 and check run-out per Steps 12 and 13. If run-out is still out of specification,
index the wheel or install a wheel from another position on the car until the correct run-out
specification is achieved
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-05-23-002B > Mar > 03 > Brakes - Front Disc Brake
Pulsation > Page 7982
14. Road test the car to verify the repairs.
For vehicles repaired under warranty Brake Align(R)
Run-Out Correction Plates should be submitted in Net Amount at cost plus 40%.
Brake Align(R) Run-Out Correction Plates are available through the following suppliers:
^ Dealer Equipment and Service
^ Brake Align(R) LLC
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Rotor/Disc: > 01-05-23-001B > Jan >
08 > Brakes - Rotor Lateral Runout Correction Information
Brake Rotor/Disc: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Rotor Lateral Runout Correction
Information
Bulletin No.: 01-05-23-001B
Date: January 31, 2008
INFORMATION
Subject: Brake Align(R) System for Brake Rotor Lateral Runout Correction
Models: 2008 and Prior Passenger Cars
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
01-05-23-001A (Section 05 - Brakes).
This bulletin is being issued to update General Motors position on correcting brake rotor lateral
runout (Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 00-05-22-002B for additional brake rotor service
procedures).
Certain conditions may apply to individual vehicles regarding specific repairs. Refer to those
specific repairs in applicable service bulletins. Make sure other possible sources of brake pulsation,
such as ABS pedal feedback, have been addressed before checking rotor runout.
Anytime a new or refinished rotor is installed on a vehicle, the rotor must have .050 mm (.002 in) or
less of lateral runout. This specification is important to prevent comebacks for brake pulsation. Until
now, the only acceptable methods to correct brake rotor runout were to index or replace the rotor or
to refinish the rotor using an on-vehicle brake lathe.
GM has approved a new technology for the correction of lateral runout on new or refinished rotors.
This new method is called Brake align(R)*. It will allow the technician to meet the .050 mm (.002 in)
or less requirement for lateral runout by installing a specially selected, tapered correction plate
between the rotor and the hub. The Brake Align(R) Correction system does NOT require the use of
an on-vehicle brake lathe to correct for lateral runout.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any
responsibility for the products from this firm or for any such items which may be available from
other sources.
The Brake Align(R) Starter Kit will include an ample supply of Correction Plates, in various
correction sizes, that will cover most current GM passenger car applications. It will also include a
Brake Align(R) tool kit containing a dial indicator and retaining washers along with other useful
tools.
Service Procedure
Follow all the procedures referred to in Corporate Bulletin Number 00-05-22-002B. Dealers who
have purchased the Brake Align(R) Starter Kit may use the following simplified runout correction
procedure:
The existing rotors must first be machined on an approved, well-maintained bench lathe to
guarantee smooth, flat, and parallel surfaces. Should the rotors require replacement, please note
that it is not necessary to machine new rotors.
Make sure all the mating surfaces of the rotor and the hub are clean, using the J 42450-A wheel
Hub Cleaning Kit. Mount the new or refinished rotor onto the vehicle hub using the retaining
washers provided in the kit. Do not reinstall the caliper or wheel at this time.
Tighten all the wheel nuts to the proper specification, using J 39544 Torque Socket or the
equivalent.
Fasten the dial indicator to the steering knuckle so that the indicator needle contacts the rotor
friction surface approximately 12.7 mm (1/2 in) from the rotors outer edge.
Rotate the rotor and observe the total lateral runout.
Index the rotor on the hub to achieve the lowest amount of lateral runout. This will require removal
and reassembly of the rotor until the lowest total lateral runout reading is obtained. If this reading is
.050 mm (.002 in) or less, the assembled rotor is within specification. The brake system may be
reassembled.
If total lateral runout is greater than .050 mm (.002 in), proceed with determining the correct Brake
Align(R) Correction as follows:
Rotate the rotor to locate the lowest dial indicator reading and set the dial to zero. Rotate the rotor
to determine and locate the highest amount of lateral runout.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Rotor/Disc: > 01-05-23-001B > Jan >
08 > Brakes - Rotor Lateral Runout Correction Information > Page 7988
Note the AMOUNT and LOCATION of the "high spot" on the rotor and mark the closest wheel stud
relative to this location.
Remove the rotor.
Select the appropriate Brake Align(R) Runout Correction Plate for this vehicle using the Application
Chart. Make sure the selection corrects the amount of runout that was diagnosed.
Never attempt to stack two or more Correction Plates together on one hub.
Never attempt to re-use a previously installed Correction Plate.
Following the Brake Align(R) procedures and diagram, install the Correction Plate onto the vehicle
between the hub and the rotor. The V-notch in the Correction Plate is to be installed and aligned
with the noted location of the "high spot" on the vehicle hub and marked wheel stud.
Install the rotor onto the vehicle with the Correction Plate placed between the hub and the rotor. Be
sure to install the rotor onto the hub in the same location as identified in Step 7.
The rotor should then be secured onto the hub and tightened to the proper specification. The rotor
should be dial indicated once more to assure that the rotor is now within specification.
The brake system is now ready for the remaining service and assembly. Once the caliper has been
installed, check to ensure that the rotor rotates freely.
Parts Information
Brake Align(R) Runout Correction Plates are available through the suppliers shown.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Rotor/Disc: > 01-05-23-001B > Jan >
08 > Brakes - Rotor Lateral Runout Correction Information > Page 7989
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Rotor/Disc: > 01-05-23-001B > Jan >
08 > Brakes - Rotor Lateral Runout Correction Information > Page 7990
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Rotor/Disc: > 01-05-23-001B > Jan >
08 > Brakes - Rotor Lateral Runout Correction Information > Page 7991
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Rotor/Disc: > 01-05-23-001B > Jan >
08 > Brakes - Rotor Lateral Runout Correction Information > Page 7992
Brake Align Order Form
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Rotor/Disc: > 00-05-23-002B > Mar >
03 > Brakes - Front Disc Brake Pulsation
Brake Rotor/Disc: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Front Disc Brake Pulsation
File In Section: 05 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 00-05-23-002B
Date: March, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Front Disc Brake Pulsation (New Rotor Run-Out Specification and Correction Method)
Models: 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1999-2003 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin is being revised to add model years and update the correction information.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-05-23-002A (Section 5 - Brakes).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a pulsation condition felt in the brake pedal and/or steering
wheel during a brake apply. In some cases, it may be noted that the pulsation condition has
reoccurred in 5,000-11,000 km (3,000-7,000 mi) after having had the brakes serviced, tires rotated
or any type of servicing that required wheel removal.
Cause
Pulsation is the result of brake rotor thickness variation causing the brake caliper piston to move in
and out of the brake caliper housing. This hydraulic "pumping/pulsing" effect is transmitted through
the brake system and may be felt in the brake pedal. In severe cases, this condition may also
transmit through the vehicle structure and other chassis system components such as the steering
column or wheel. The major contributor to rotor thickness variation is excessive lateral run-out of
the rotor, causing the brake pads to wear the rotor unevenly over time.
Correction
Important:
All vehicles built since March 2000 have been built with the updated brake pad. Unless the brake
pads are worn past the given specifications, the brake pads should be not replaced.
FOR 2000 AND PRIOR MODEL YEAR VEHICLES ONLY: Confirm that the brake pads have the
number 1417 printed on the edge of the pad backing plate (refer to the illustration - glass cleaner
can be used to
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Rotor/Disc: > 00-05-23-002B > Mar >
03 > Brakes - Front Disc Brake Pulsation > Page 7997
clean the area so that the print is visible). This indicates the correct brake pads have been
previously installed. The brake pads contained in Front Pad Kit, P/N 18044437 are the only brake
pads that should be used on these vehicles. If the number 1417 is not present, or if the number is
not legible, replace the brake pads. If the correct pads were previously installed, verify the brake
pad thickness. If the brake pad friction material thickness is 4.6 mm (0.18 in) or greater, re-use the
pads. If the friction material thickness is less than 4.6 mm (0.18 in), install new brake pads
contained in Front Pad kit, P/N 18044437.
If the rotor thickness is less than 25 mm (0.98 in), install a new rotor. If rotor thickness is greater
than 25 mm (0.98 in), refinish the rotor.
Replace existing front brake rotors and pads, if necessary, with new components indicated in the
table following the applicable Service Manual procedures and the service guidelines contained in
Corporate Bulletin Number 00-05-22-002.
Important
^ The brake pad with the wear indicator must be installed in the inner position (against the piston in
the caliper). When properly installed. the wear indicator will be pointing up with the caliper installed
on the car (Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 01-05-23-005).
^ If the pad with the wear indicator must be installed in the outboard position, reduced front brake
lining life or interference between the compact spare tire and brake caliper may occur
^ Anytime a new or refinished rotor is installed on a vehicle, the rotor must have.040 mm (.0015 in)
or less of lateral run-out. This specification is important to prevent comebacks for brake pulsation
and is a tighter specification than specified for other vehicle models.
GM has approved a new technology for the correction of lateral run-out on new or refinished rotors.
This new method is called *"Brake Align(R)". It will allow the technician to meet the .040 mm (.0015
in) or less requirement for lateral run-out by installing a specially selected tapered correction plate
between the rotor and the hub (Reference Corporate Bulletin Number 01-05-23-001).
* We believe this source and their products to be reliable There may be additional manufacturers of
such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any
responsibility for the products from this firm or for any such items which may be available from
other sources.
1. Machine the existing rotors on an approved, well-maintained brake lathe to guarantee smooth,
flat, and parallel surfaces. Replace the rotors if they do not meet the minimum thickness
specification. DO NOT MACHINE NEW ROTORS.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Rotor/Disc: > 00-05-23-002B > Mar >
03 > Brakes - Front Disc Brake Pulsation > Page 7998
2. Ensure that all the mating surfaces of the rotor and the hub are clean using the J 42450-A,
Wheel Hub Cleaning Kit, to clean around the wheel studs. Use the J 41013, Wheel Hub
Resurfacing Kit, to clean the mating surface of the rotor and bearing hub. Mount the new or
refinished rotor onto the vehicle hub and secure using Conical Retaining Washers, J 45101-100
and the existing wheel nuts. Do not install the calipers and the wheels at this time.
Tighten
Tighten the wheel nuts in a star pattern to 140 N.m (100 lb ft) using J 39544, Torque Socket or
equivalent.
3. Fasten a dial indicator to the steering knuckle so that the indicator needle contacts the rotor
outboard friction surface approximately 12.7 mm (0.5 in) from the rotor's outer edge.
4. Rotate the rotor and measure the total lateral run-out.
5. Based on the measurement taken in the previous step, proceed as indicated below:
^ Lateral run-out LESS than or equal to .040 mm (.0015 in), remove wheel nuts and conical
washers and then proceed to Step 11.
^ Lateral run-out GREATER than .040 mm (.0015 in), proceed to the next step.
6. Following procedure below, determine the correct "Brake Align(R)" Correction Plate" that will be
required to bring lateral run-out within the specification:
6.1. Rotate the rotor and locate the point on the rotor where the lowest dial indicator reading is
indicated and set the dial indicator to zero.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Rotor/Disc: > 00-05-23-002B > Mar >
03 > Brakes - Front Disc Brake Pulsation > Page 7999
6.2. Rotate the rotor and locate the point with the highest dial indicator reading (rotor "high spot").
6.3. Note the amount and location of the "high spot" on the rotor and mark the closest wheel stud
relative to this location.
7. Select the appropriate "Brake Align(R) Correction Plate" required to compensate for the lateral
run-out from the plates listed in the chart below. Verify that the plate selected corrects the run-out
specification to within .040 mm (.0015 in) or less.
8. Remove the wheel nuts, conical washers and rotor.
Important:
Never attempt to stack two or more Correction Plates together on one hub. Never attempt to re-use
a previously installed Correction Plate.
9. Following the Brake Align(R) procedures and diagram, install the Correction Plate onto the
vehicle between the hub and rotor. The V-notch in the Correction Plate is to be installed and
aligned with the noted location of the "high spot" on the vehicle hub and marked wheel stud.
10. Install the rotor onto the vehicle with the Correction Plate placed between the hub and the rotor.
Be sure to install the rotor onto the hub in the same location as identified in Step 6.3.
11. Re-install the calipers and wheels.
Important
It is critical to follow the procedure below for torquing the wheels. Brake rotors may be distorted if
the wheel nuts are tightened with an impact wrench or if this procedure is not followed exactly.
Tighten
Tighten the wheel nuts to 140 N.m (100 lb ft) with a TORQUE WRENCH following the three step
method shown.
^ Hand tighten all 5 wheel nuts using the star pattern (refer to the illustration).
^ Tighten all 5 wheel nuts to approximately 1/2 specification using the star pattern.
^ Tighten all 5 wheel nuts to 140 N.m (100 lb ft) using the star pattern.
12. Fasten a dial indicator to the steering knuckle so that the indicator needle contacts the rotor
inboard friction surface approximately 12.7 mm (0.5 in) from the rotors's outer edge.
13. Rotate the wheel on the opposite side of the vehicle and confirm that lateral run-out is less than
or equal to .040 mm (.0015 in). If run-out is less than or equal to.040 mm (.0015 in), proceed to
Step 14. if run-out is greater than .040 mm (.0015 in), remove the wheel and secure the rotor using
conical retaining washers J 45101-100 and the existing wheel nuts. Measure run-out following
Steps 3 and 4 above to ensure that the right correction plate was selected and properly installed. If
run-out is within specification, reinstall the wheel making sure to use the three step tightening
procedure in Step 11 and check run-out per Steps 12 and 13. If run-out is still out of specification,
index the wheel or install a wheel from another position on the car until the correct run-out
specification is achieved
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Rotor/Disc: > 00-05-23-002B > Mar >
03 > Brakes - Front Disc Brake Pulsation > Page 8000
14. Road test the car to verify the repairs.
For vehicles repaired under warranty Brake Align(R)
Run-Out Correction Plates should be submitted in Net Amount at cost plus 40%.
Brake Align(R) Run-Out Correction Plates are available through the following suppliers:
^ Dealer Equipment and Service
^ Brake Align(R) LLC
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Rotor/Disc: > 73-50-37 > Jan > 98 >
Brakes - Rotor & Hub Flange Cleaning Tool Revision
Brake Rotor/Disc: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Rotor & Hub Flange Cleaning Tool
Revision
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-37
Date: January, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: Revision to J 42450 Tool; Proper Brake Rotor and Hub Flange Surface Cleaning
Models: 1998 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks - with Disc Brakes (Rotor and Hub
Separate)
This bulletin is being revised to update the following text.
This bulletin is being issued to inform the dealer about a revision to tool J 42450 and reinforce the
need for proper hub flange and brake rotor mating surface cleaning during service.
Tool J 42450 is a cleaning pad arbor and pad system that fits over the wheel stud and cleans the
portion of the hub surface that is very difficult to reach with normal rotary cleaning pads. Tool J
42450 is being revised to J 42450-A to improve the hook and loop material retention. Any dealer
experiencing problems with tool J 42450 should contact Kent-Moore at 1-800-345-2233 for a
revised arbor at no charge.
Anytime the brake rotor has been separated from the hub bearing flange or if rotor machining is
necessary, the rotor and hub should be marked to maintain the original position. Clean the hub
flange of all dirt and foreign material using special tool J 42450 or J 42450-A. Clean both sides of
the brake rotor hub using an aggressive (80 grit) abrasive sanding pad on a rotary disc.
Properly cleaning the rotor surfaces before rotor machining or reassembly ensures that dirt and
corrosion will not add lateral runout to the rotor. Proper cleaning of the hub flange will also minimize
the stack-up of lateral runout. On reassembly, the rotor should be reinstalled aligning the marks
made on disassembly.
Always use a torque wrench or the appropriate Torque Socket found in J 39544-KIT on an impact
wrench when installing the wheel and tire assembly. Torque all wheel nuts using the correct
sequence and torque. Refer to the Tire and Wheel Sub-Section in the applicable Service Manual.
Excessive torque or torque variation between wheel nuts may cause distortion of the hub and rotor
mating surface. This distortion may cause lateral runout and lead to brake pulsation.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Rotor/Disc: > 23-50-05B > Nov > 97 >
Brakes - Rotor Warranty Service Procedure
Technical Service Bulletin # 23-50-05B Date: 971101
Brakes - Rotor Warranty Service Procedure
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 23-50-05B
Date: November, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Brake Rotor Warranty Service Procedure
Model: 1994-98 GM Passenger Cars
This bulletin outlines GM's procedures for brake rotor service for all applicable GM passenger cars
and supersedes Corporate Bulletin Number 23-50-05A Section 5 - Brakes).
Important:
Rotors should only be turned when one or more of the following rotor surface conditions exist:
1. Severe Scoring - depth in excess of 1.5 mm (0.060 in.). 2. Pulsation Concerns from:
a. Thickness variation in excess of 0.025 mm (0.001 in.). b. Corrosion on rotor braking surfaces.
Rotors are NOT to be resurfaced in an attempt to correct:
1. Noise/squeal. 2. Cosmetic corrosion. 3. Routine pad replacement. 4. Discoloration and/or "hard
spots".
Explanation of Brake Rotor Warranty Service Procedure
Research and testing has determined:
1. Rotor refacing during normal pad replacement is not necessary.
2. Rotor refacing for cosmetic corrosion is unnecessary. Clean-up of braking surfaces can be
accomplished by 10-15 moderate stops from 62-75 km/h (35-40 mph) with cooling time between
stops.
3. Rotor service is ineffective in correcting BRAKE SQUEAL, and/or PREMATURE LINING WEAR
OUT, and should NOT be used to address these conditions.
4. When installing new rotors, DO NOT reface them.
5. Ensure bearing flanges are free of corrosion when installing rotors to prevent inducing lateral
runout. Use Kent Moore tool J 42450 to clean the corrosion around the wheel studs.
Brake Service Techniques
EVERY brake service should include:
1. Clean and lube all metal-to-metal contact points (i.e.; caliper to knuckle, pad to knuckle, etc.).
2. Clean and lube slide pins.
3. Set correct clearances - caliper to knuckle, etc.
4. Clean rotor and hub mounting surfaces. Use Kent Moore tool J 42450 to clean around wheel
studs.
Pulsation
Brake pulsation concerns may result from two basic conditions:
1. Thickness variation.
2. Excessive corrosion.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Rotor/Disc: > 23-50-05B > Nov > 97 >
Brakes - Rotor Warranty Service Procedure > Page 8009
Rotor thickness variation is the result of uneven rotor wear caused by excessive lateral runout
(>0.076 mm; >0.003 in.). Lateral runout can be induced by:
1. Distortion of the braking surface by applying uneven and/or excessive wheel nut torque.
(This could be the result of a recent tire change, rotation, etc.).
2. Improperly refacing rotors.
Brake Noise
Important:
SOME BRAKE NOISE IS NORMAL.
Brake noise is caused by a "slip stick" type vibration of brake components. Some intermittent brake
noise may be normal. Performing 3-4 aggressive stops may temporarily reduce or eliminate most
brake squeal. If the noise persists, a brake dampening compound may be applied to the back of
each pad. Use Permatex Disc Brake Quiet # 126HB or equivalent. Also, clean and lube all
metal-to-metal contact areas between pads, pad guides, caliper and knuckles with a thin layer of
high temperature silicone grease. This allows parts to slide freely and not vibrate when moving
relative to each other.
Rotor Grooving
Excessive grooving can be caused by foreign material in contact with the rotor, but most often rotor
grooving is the result of normal brake wear. DO NOT RESURFACE ROTORS FOR LIGHT
GROOVING. Resurface rotors only when grooves of 1.5 mm (0.060 in.) or deeper are present.
A dime may be used to determine disc brake groove depth. Place a dime in the groove, with
Roosevelt's head toward the groove. If the dime goes into the groove beyond the top of his head,
the groove exceeds 1.5 mm (0.060 in.) and the rotor should be serviced. (In Canada, if any portion
of the letters of "In Canada" are covered, the rotor should serviced.)
It the groove is too narrow for the dime to be inserted, it is not a cause for concern.
High Pedal Effort
Follow Service Manual diagnostic procedures for this condition. Service rotors if they have been
recently resurfaced. (The surface finish may be out-of-specification).
Lightly Rusted Rotors
Light surface rust on rotor braking surfaces is often cosmetic and can be eliminated during a few
normal driving stops. Rusting may occur when a vehicle is not driven for extended periods. Rotors
with surface rust on unsold new cars can usually be burnished clean by performing 15 moderate
stops from 62-75 km/h (35-40 mph) with cooling time between stops.
Facts About Brake Service
^ Original equipment rotor surfaces are ground to ensure smooth finish and parallelism between
mounting and friction surfaces. New rotors should not be resurfaced before installation.
^ Improper tightening of wheel nuts can induce lateral runout (distortion of braking surfaces) which
will lead to uneven wear. As high spots are worn down, resulting thickness variation will cause
brake pulsation.
^ Ensure wheel bearing flange is clean and free of corrosion before installing new rotors. A new
essential tool (Kent Moore tool J 42450) will soon be sent to all dealers. This tool makes it easier to
clean corrosion around the wheel studs.
^ Always mark the position of rotor on the hub before removal, and reinstall the rotor in the same
position.
^ Rotors with perceived hard spots or discoloration should not be serviced. These conditions are
normal.
^ Installation of new rotors does not require pad replacement. Do NOT replace pads unless their
condition requires it.
^ It is NOT necessary to replace rotors in pairs. Rotors may be serviced individually.
^ A TORQUE LIMITING SOCKET OR TORQUE WRENCH MUST BE USED to insure that the
wheel nuts are tightened to specification. This should be done in 3 steps using the star pattern.
1. Snug the nuts down by hand. 2. Using the star pattern and a torque limiting socket or torque
wrench, tighten the wheel nuts to about half the final torque. 3. Tighten the wheel nuts to
specification using the star pattern and a torque limiting socket or torque wrench.
^ NEVER use lubricants or penetrating fluids on wheel studs, nuts, or mounting surfaces. Wheel
nuts, studs, and mounting surfaces must be clean and dry.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Brake Rotor/Disc: > 01-05-23-001B > Jan > 08 >
Brakes - Rotor Lateral Runout Correction Information
Brake Rotor/Disc: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Rotor Lateral Runout Correction
Information
Bulletin No.: 01-05-23-001B
Date: January 31, 2008
INFORMATION
Subject: Brake Align(R) System for Brake Rotor Lateral Runout Correction
Models: 2008 and Prior Passenger Cars
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
01-05-23-001A (Section 05 - Brakes).
This bulletin is being issued to update General Motors position on correcting brake rotor lateral
runout (Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 00-05-22-002B for additional brake rotor service
procedures).
Certain conditions may apply to individual vehicles regarding specific repairs. Refer to those
specific repairs in applicable service bulletins. Make sure other possible sources of brake pulsation,
such as ABS pedal feedback, have been addressed before checking rotor runout.
Anytime a new or refinished rotor is installed on a vehicle, the rotor must have .050 mm (.002 in) or
less of lateral runout. This specification is important to prevent comebacks for brake pulsation. Until
now, the only acceptable methods to correct brake rotor runout were to index or replace the rotor or
to refinish the rotor using an on-vehicle brake lathe.
GM has approved a new technology for the correction of lateral runout on new or refinished rotors.
This new method is called Brake align(R)*. It will allow the technician to meet the .050 mm (.002 in)
or less requirement for lateral runout by installing a specially selected, tapered correction plate
between the rotor and the hub. The Brake Align(R) Correction system does NOT require the use of
an on-vehicle brake lathe to correct for lateral runout.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any
responsibility for the products from this firm or for any such items which may be available from
other sources.
The Brake Align(R) Starter Kit will include an ample supply of Correction Plates, in various
correction sizes, that will cover most current GM passenger car applications. It will also include a
Brake Align(R) tool kit containing a dial indicator and retaining washers along with other useful
tools.
Service Procedure
Follow all the procedures referred to in Corporate Bulletin Number 00-05-22-002B. Dealers who
have purchased the Brake Align(R) Starter Kit may use the following simplified runout correction
procedure:
The existing rotors must first be machined on an approved, well-maintained bench lathe to
guarantee smooth, flat, and parallel surfaces. Should the rotors require replacement, please note
that it is not necessary to machine new rotors.
Make sure all the mating surfaces of the rotor and the hub are clean, using the J 42450-A wheel
Hub Cleaning Kit. Mount the new or refinished rotor onto the vehicle hub using the retaining
washers provided in the kit. Do not reinstall the caliper or wheel at this time.
Tighten all the wheel nuts to the proper specification, using J 39544 Torque Socket or the
equivalent.
Fasten the dial indicator to the steering knuckle so that the indicator needle contacts the rotor
friction surface approximately 12.7 mm (1/2 in) from the rotors outer edge.
Rotate the rotor and observe the total lateral runout.
Index the rotor on the hub to achieve the lowest amount of lateral runout. This will require removal
and reassembly of the rotor until the lowest total lateral runout reading is obtained. If this reading is
.050 mm (.002 in) or less, the assembled rotor is within specification. The brake system may be
reassembled.
If total lateral runout is greater than .050 mm (.002 in), proceed with determining the correct Brake
Align(R) Correction as follows:
Rotate the rotor to locate the lowest dial indicator reading and set the dial to zero. Rotate the rotor
to determine and locate the highest amount of lateral runout.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Brake Rotor/Disc: > 01-05-23-001B > Jan > 08 >
Brakes - Rotor Lateral Runout Correction Information > Page 8015
Note the AMOUNT and LOCATION of the "high spot" on the rotor and mark the closest wheel stud
relative to this location.
Remove the rotor.
Select the appropriate Brake Align(R) Runout Correction Plate for this vehicle using the Application
Chart. Make sure the selection corrects the amount of runout that was diagnosed.
Never attempt to stack two or more Correction Plates together on one hub.
Never attempt to re-use a previously installed Correction Plate.
Following the Brake Align(R) procedures and diagram, install the Correction Plate onto the vehicle
between the hub and the rotor. The V-notch in the Correction Plate is to be installed and aligned
with the noted location of the "high spot" on the vehicle hub and marked wheel stud.
Install the rotor onto the vehicle with the Correction Plate placed between the hub and the rotor. Be
sure to install the rotor onto the hub in the same location as identified in Step 7.
The rotor should then be secured onto the hub and tightened to the proper specification. The rotor
should be dial indicated once more to assure that the rotor is now within specification.
The brake system is now ready for the remaining service and assembly. Once the caliper has been
installed, check to ensure that the rotor rotates freely.
Parts Information
Brake Align(R) Runout Correction Plates are available through the suppliers shown.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Brake Rotor/Disc: > 01-05-23-001B > Jan > 08 >
Brakes - Rotor Lateral Runout Correction Information > Page 8016
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Brake Rotor/Disc: > 01-05-23-001B > Jan > 08 >
Brakes - Rotor Lateral Runout Correction Information > Page 8017
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Brake Rotor/Disc: > 01-05-23-001B > Jan > 08 >
Brakes - Rotor Lateral Runout Correction Information > Page 8018
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Brake Rotor/Disc: > 01-05-23-001B > Jan > 08 >
Brakes - Rotor Lateral Runout Correction Information > Page 8019
Brake Align Order Form
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Brake Rotor/Disc: > 73-50-37 > Jan > 98 > Brakes
- Rotor & Hub Flange Cleaning Tool Revision
Brake Rotor/Disc: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Rotor & Hub Flange Cleaning Tool
Revision
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-37
Date: January, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: Revision to J 42450 Tool; Proper Brake Rotor and Hub Flange Surface Cleaning
Models: 1998 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks - with Disc Brakes (Rotor and Hub
Separate)
This bulletin is being revised to update the following text.
This bulletin is being issued to inform the dealer about a revision to tool J 42450 and reinforce the
need for proper hub flange and brake rotor mating surface cleaning during service.
Tool J 42450 is a cleaning pad arbor and pad system that fits over the wheel stud and cleans the
portion of the hub surface that is very difficult to reach with normal rotary cleaning pads. Tool J
42450 is being revised to J 42450-A to improve the hook and loop material retention. Any dealer
experiencing problems with tool J 42450 should contact Kent-Moore at 1-800-345-2233 for a
revised arbor at no charge.
Anytime the brake rotor has been separated from the hub bearing flange or if rotor machining is
necessary, the rotor and hub should be marked to maintain the original position. Clean the hub
flange of all dirt and foreign material using special tool J 42450 or J 42450-A. Clean both sides of
the brake rotor hub using an aggressive (80 grit) abrasive sanding pad on a rotary disc.
Properly cleaning the rotor surfaces before rotor machining or reassembly ensures that dirt and
corrosion will not add lateral runout to the rotor. Proper cleaning of the hub flange will also minimize
the stack-up of lateral runout. On reassembly, the rotor should be reinstalled aligning the marks
made on disassembly.
Always use a torque wrench or the appropriate Torque Socket found in J 39544-KIT on an impact
wrench when installing the wheel and tire assembly. Torque all wheel nuts using the correct
sequence and torque. Refer to the Tire and Wheel Sub-Section in the applicable Service Manual.
Excessive torque or torque variation between wheel nuts may cause distortion of the hub and rotor
mating surface. This distortion may cause lateral runout and lead to brake pulsation.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Brake Rotor/Disc: > 23-50-05B > Nov > 97 >
Brakes - Rotor Warranty Service Procedure
Technical Service Bulletin # 23-50-05B Date: 971101
Brakes - Rotor Warranty Service Procedure
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 23-50-05B
Date: November, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Brake Rotor Warranty Service Procedure
Model: 1994-98 GM Passenger Cars
This bulletin outlines GM's procedures for brake rotor service for all applicable GM passenger cars
and supersedes Corporate Bulletin Number 23-50-05A Section 5 - Brakes).
Important:
Rotors should only be turned when one or more of the following rotor surface conditions exist:
1. Severe Scoring - depth in excess of 1.5 mm (0.060 in.). 2. Pulsation Concerns from:
a. Thickness variation in excess of 0.025 mm (0.001 in.). b. Corrosion on rotor braking surfaces.
Rotors are NOT to be resurfaced in an attempt to correct:
1. Noise/squeal. 2. Cosmetic corrosion. 3. Routine pad replacement. 4. Discoloration and/or "hard
spots".
Explanation of Brake Rotor Warranty Service Procedure
Research and testing has determined:
1. Rotor refacing during normal pad replacement is not necessary.
2. Rotor refacing for cosmetic corrosion is unnecessary. Clean-up of braking surfaces can be
accomplished by 10-15 moderate stops from 62-75 km/h (35-40 mph) with cooling time between
stops.
3. Rotor service is ineffective in correcting BRAKE SQUEAL, and/or PREMATURE LINING WEAR
OUT, and should NOT be used to address these conditions.
4. When installing new rotors, DO NOT reface them.
5. Ensure bearing flanges are free of corrosion when installing rotors to prevent inducing lateral
runout. Use Kent Moore tool J 42450 to clean the corrosion around the wheel studs.
Brake Service Techniques
EVERY brake service should include:
1. Clean and lube all metal-to-metal contact points (i.e.; caliper to knuckle, pad to knuckle, etc.).
2. Clean and lube slide pins.
3. Set correct clearances - caliper to knuckle, etc.
4. Clean rotor and hub mounting surfaces. Use Kent Moore tool J 42450 to clean around wheel
studs.
Pulsation
Brake pulsation concerns may result from two basic conditions:
1. Thickness variation.
2. Excessive corrosion.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Brake Rotor/Disc: > 23-50-05B > Nov > 97 >
Brakes - Rotor Warranty Service Procedure > Page 8028
Rotor thickness variation is the result of uneven rotor wear caused by excessive lateral runout
(>0.076 mm; >0.003 in.). Lateral runout can be induced by:
1. Distortion of the braking surface by applying uneven and/or excessive wheel nut torque.
(This could be the result of a recent tire change, rotation, etc.).
2. Improperly refacing rotors.
Brake Noise
Important:
SOME BRAKE NOISE IS NORMAL.
Brake noise is caused by a "slip stick" type vibration of brake components. Some intermittent brake
noise may be normal. Performing 3-4 aggressive stops may temporarily reduce or eliminate most
brake squeal. If the noise persists, a brake dampening compound may be applied to the back of
each pad. Use Permatex Disc Brake Quiet # 126HB or equivalent. Also, clean and lube all
metal-to-metal contact areas between pads, pad guides, caliper and knuckles with a thin layer of
high temperature silicone grease. This allows parts to slide freely and not vibrate when moving
relative to each other.
Rotor Grooving
Excessive grooving can be caused by foreign material in contact with the rotor, but most often rotor
grooving is the result of normal brake wear. DO NOT RESURFACE ROTORS FOR LIGHT
GROOVING. Resurface rotors only when grooves of 1.5 mm (0.060 in.) or deeper are present.
A dime may be used to determine disc brake groove depth. Place a dime in the groove, with
Roosevelt's head toward the groove. If the dime goes into the groove beyond the top of his head,
the groove exceeds 1.5 mm (0.060 in.) and the rotor should be serviced. (In Canada, if any portion
of the letters of "In Canada" are covered, the rotor should serviced.)
It the groove is too narrow for the dime to be inserted, it is not a cause for concern.
High Pedal Effort
Follow Service Manual diagnostic procedures for this condition. Service rotors if they have been
recently resurfaced. (The surface finish may be out-of-specification).
Lightly Rusted Rotors
Light surface rust on rotor braking surfaces is often cosmetic and can be eliminated during a few
normal driving stops. Rusting may occur when a vehicle is not driven for extended periods. Rotors
with surface rust on unsold new cars can usually be burnished clean by performing 15 moderate
stops from 62-75 km/h (35-40 mph) with cooling time between stops.
Facts About Brake Service
^ Original equipment rotor surfaces are ground to ensure smooth finish and parallelism between
mounting and friction surfaces. New rotors should not be resurfaced before installation.
^ Improper tightening of wheel nuts can induce lateral runout (distortion of braking surfaces) which
will lead to uneven wear. As high spots are worn down, resulting thickness variation will cause
brake pulsation.
^ Ensure wheel bearing flange is clean and free of corrosion before installing new rotors. A new
essential tool (Kent Moore tool J 42450) will soon be sent to all dealers. This tool makes it easier to
clean corrosion around the wheel studs.
^ Always mark the position of rotor on the hub before removal, and reinstall the rotor in the same
position.
^ Rotors with perceived hard spots or discoloration should not be serviced. These conditions are
normal.
^ Installation of new rotors does not require pad replacement. Do NOT replace pads unless their
condition requires it.
^ It is NOT necessary to replace rotors in pairs. Rotors may be serviced individually.
^ A TORQUE LIMITING SOCKET OR TORQUE WRENCH MUST BE USED to insure that the
wheel nuts are tightened to specification. This should be done in 3 steps using the star pattern.
1. Snug the nuts down by hand. 2. Using the star pattern and a torque limiting socket or torque
wrench, tighten the wheel nuts to about half the final torque. 3. Tighten the wheel nuts to
specification using the star pattern and a torque limiting socket or torque wrench.
^ NEVER use lubricants or penetrating fluids on wheel studs, nuts, or mounting surfaces. Wheel
nuts, studs, and mounting surfaces must be clean and dry.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Specifications > Front
Brake Rotor/Disc: Specifications
Rotor Diameter 10.944 in
Lateral Runout 0.0015 in
Thickness Variation 0.001 in
Rotor Thickness New 1.031 in
Minimum Thickness After Refinish 0.980 in
Discard Thickness 0.972 in
All brake rotors have a discard dimension cast into them.
Replace any rotor that does not meet this specification.
After refinishing the rotor, replace any rotor that does
not meet the maximum diameter or minimum thickness after
refinish specification.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Specifications > Front > Page 8031
Brake Rotor/Disc: Specifications
Rotor Diameter 10.944 in
Lateral Runout 0.0015 in
Thickness Variation 0.001 in
Rotor Thickness New 0.433 in
Minimum Thickness After Refinish 0.388 in
Discard Thickness 0.354 in
All brake rotors have a discard dimension cast into them.
Replace any rotor that does not meet this specification.
After refinishing the rotor, replace any rotor that does
not meet the maximum diameter or minimum thickness after
refinish specification.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Rotor Tolerance and Surface Finish
Brake Rotor/Disc: Testing and Inspection Rotor Tolerance and Surface Finish
In manufacturing the brake rotor, tolerances of the braking surfaces for flatness, parallelism and
lateral runout are closely held. The maintenance of close tolerances on the shape of the braking
surfaces is necessary to prevent brake roughness or pulsation. In addition to these tolerances, the
surface finish must be held to a specific range. This range is 50 Ra roughness or less. The control
of the braking surface finish is necessary to avoid problems of hard pedal apply, excessive brake
fade, pulls and erratic performance. In addition, control of the surface finish can improve lining life.
Light scoring of the rotor surfaces not exceeding 1.5 mm (0.06 inches) in depth, which may result
from normal use, is not detrimental to brake operation.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Rotor Tolerance and Surface Finish > Page 8034
Brake Rotor/Disc: Testing and Inspection Thickness Variation Check
Check thickness variation by measuring the rotor thickness at four or more points around the
circumference of the rotor. Use a micrometer calibrated in ten-thousands of an inch. Make all
measurements at the same distance in from the edge of the rotor. A rotor that varies in thickness
by more than 0.013 mm (0.0005 inches) can cause pedal pulsation and/or front end vibration
during brake applications. A rotor that does not meet these specifications should be refinished to
specifications or replaced.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Rotor Tolerance and Surface Finish > Page 8035
Brake Rotor/Disc: Testing and Inspection Lateral Runout Check
The best way to check lateral runout is with the wheels still installed on the vehicle. This gives a
much more accurate reading of the Total Indicated Runout (TIR) under real braking conditions. If
equipment is not available to perform the check with the wheels installed, the next best reading can
be made with the wheels removed but with the caliper still installed.
1. Clean rotor surface.
NOTE: If the wheel must be removed, re-install the wheel nuts to retain the rotor. Tighten the wheel
nuts to the correct tightening specification following the wheel nut tightening sequence. Refer to
Wheel Installation in Tires and Wheels.
2. Fasten a dial indicator to the steering knuckle so that the indicator button contacts the rotor
surface about 13 mm (0.5 inches) from the outer edge. 3. Set the dial indicator to zero. 4. Turn the
wheel one complete revolution and observe the runout indicated on the dial. The TIR must not
exceed 0.08 mm (0.003 inches). In some
cases, excessive lateral runout of the rotor can be improved by indexing the rotor on the hub one or
two bolt positions from the original position. If the lateral runout cannot be corrected by indexing the
rotor, check the hub and bearing assembly for excessive lateral runout or looseness. If the hub and
bearing assembly lateral runout exceeds 0.040 mm (0.0015 inches), then replace the hub and
bearing assembly. If lateral runout is within specifications then refinish or replace the rotor as
necessary.
NOTE: Whenever the brake rotor has been separated from the wheel bearing flange, clean any
rust or foreign material from the mating surface of the wheel bearing flange and rotor. Failure to do
this may result in increased lateral runout of the rotor and brake pulsation.
5. If lateral runout exceeds the amount specified in step 4, refinish or replace the rotor.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Refinishing Precaution
Brake Rotor/Disc: Service and Repair Refinishing Precaution
NOTE: DO NOT refinish brake rotors when performing routine brake maintenance such as
replacing worn disc brake pads. Refinish a rotor only under the following circumstances:
- There is a complaint of brake pulsation.
- There are heat spots or excessive scoring.
All brake rotors have a minimum thickness dimension cast into them. This dimension is the
minimum wear dimension and not a refinish dimension. Do not use a brake rotor that will not meet
the Specifications. A rotor which has been refinished too thin will not have proper heat transfer
capabilities; replace it with a new brace rotor. Accurate control for the rotor tolerances is necessary
for proper performance of the disc brakes. Machining of rotors should be done only with precision
equipment. The equipment should be serviced on a regular basis following the manufacturer's
recommended maintenance procedure. When refinishing rotors, the attaching adapters, tool
holders, vibration dampeners, and tool bits must be in good condition. Always use sharp cutting
tools or bits and use only replacement cutting bits recommended by the equipment manufacturer.
Dull or worn tools leave a poor surface finish which will affect initial braking performance. Vibration
dampening attachments should always be used when refinishing braking surfaces. These
attachments eliminate tool chatter and will result in a better surface finish. Make sure adapters are
clean and free of nicks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Refinishing Precaution > Page 8038
Brake Rotor/Disc: Service and Repair Replacement
When installing new brake rotors, do not refinish the surfaces as these parts are at the correct level
of surface finish.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Refinishing Precaution > Page 8039
Brake Rotor/Disc: Service and Repair On-Vehicle Refinishing
In the cases where rotors are being refinished to correct a problem with brake pulsation, it is
recommended that an On-Vehicle brake lathe be used to achieve best results. Follow the lathe
manufacturer's recommended specifications and procedure.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Refinishing Precaution > Page 8040
Brake Rotor/Disc: Service and Repair Off-Vehicle Refinishing
Lathe Manufacturer's Recommended Specifications And Procedure
Refer to chart showing two recommended procedures that achieve adequate results using two
different vendor's off-vehicle drum/disc brake lathes (If any other vendor's lathe is used, follow that
vendor's recommended procedure). It is very important that the rotor surface be made
non-directional by dressing the rotor surfaces with a sanding disc power tool such as Ammco 8350
Safe Swirl Disc Rotor Grinder, or equivalent, using 120 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper. Sand each
rotor surface with moderate pressure for a minimum of 60 seconds. An alternate method is to use a
sanding block with 150 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper. With the rotor turning approximately 150
RPM, sand each rotor finish for a minimum of 60 seconds using moderate pressure. After the rotor
has been sanded, clean each surface with denatured alcohol or suitable brake cleaner. The finish
rotor surface should be as close to that of a new rotor as possible. Failure to obtain the best
possible rotor finish may affect initial braking performance.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Refinishing Precaution > Page 8041
Brake Rotor/Disc: Service and Repair Burnishing
After brake pads have been replaced and/or rotors have been refinished, it is recommended that
the new braking surface be broken in, or burnished. This can be accomplished by making 20 stops
from 30 mph, using medium to firm pedal pressure with a minimum of 15 seconds between stops.
Take care to avoid overheating the brakes.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Backing Plate > Component
Information > Service and Repair
Backing Plate: Service and Repair
NOTE: Raise vehicle and suitably support.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Brake components. See: Brake Drum/Service and Repair 2. Wheel cylinder. See: Wheel
Cylinder/Service and Repair 3. Inlet tube. 4. Bolts from wheel cylinder. 5. Parking brake cable from
backing plate.
6. Hub and bearing assembly bolts. 7. Backing plate.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Bolts to wheel cylinder. Tighten Wheel cylinder bolts to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.). 2. Backing plate to
axle assembly. 3. Hub and bearing assembly with bolts. 4. Parking brake cable to backing plate. 5.
Inlet tube. Tighten Inlet tube nut to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.). 6. Brake components.
- Bleed the brake system. See: Hydraulic System/Service and Repair
- Lower vehicle.
- Adjust Rear brake assembly See: Brake Drum/Adjustments
- Adjust Parking brake. See: Parking Brake System/Adjustments
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information
> Specifications
Brake Drum: Specifications
Discard Diameter 8.909 in
All brake drums have a discard dimension cast into them.
Replace any drum that does not meet this specification.
After refinishing the drum, replace any drum that does not
meet the maximum diameter or minimum thickness after
refinish specification.
Inside Diameter 8.868 in
Maximum Diameter After Refinish 8.889 in
Runout 0.004 in
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information
> Description and Operation > Replacing
Brake Drum: Description and Operation Replacing
DESCRIPTION
When installing new brake drums do not refinish the braking surface as these parts are at the
correct level of surface finish.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information
> Description and Operation > Replacing > Page 8051
Brake Drum: Description and Operation Refinishing
DESCRIPTION
If a drum must be refinished, remove only enough metal to obtain a true, smooth braking surface. If
a drum does not clean-up when refinished to a maximum re-bore diameter specifications replace it.
Removal of more metal will affect heat dissipation and may cause drum distortion. All brake drums
have a maximum diameter cast into them. This diameter is the maximum wear diameter and not a
finish diameter.
OPERATION
When refinishing a brake drum, resurface the drum to no more than a dimension of 0.76 mm (0.030
inches) less than the discard diameter. The refinish diameter is the maximum diameter the brake
drum may be refinished to and still allow safe braking action. If this dimension is exceeded, the
brake drum will wear beyond the discard diameter during normal brake wear. Always use sharp
cutting tools or bits. Dull or worn tools leave a poor surface finish which will affect initial braking
performance. Always use vibration dampening attachments when refinishing braking surfaces.
These attachments eliminate tool chatter so a better finish can be obtained. The optimum speed for
refinishing braking surfaces is a spindle speed of 150 rpm. Crossfeed for rough cutting should
range from 0.15-0.25 mm (0.006-0.010 inches) per revolution. Finish cuts should be made at
crossfeeds no greater than 0.05 mm (0.002 inches) per revolution.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information
> Description and Operation > Page 8052
Brake Drum: Adjustments
1. Raise vehicle and suitably support. 2. Remove tire and wheel assembly. Mark relationship of
wheel to axle flange to insure proper balance upon reassembly. 3. Remove brake drum. Mark
relationship of drum to axle flange to insure proper balance upon reassembly.
4. Measure drum inside diameter (ID) using J 21177-A. 5. Turning star wheel, adjust shoe and
lining diameter to be 0.76 mm (0.030 inches) less than inside drum diameter for each rear wheel. 6.
Install drums and wheels, aligning previous marks. 7. Lower vehicle. 8. Tighten wheel nuts. 9.
Apply the brake pedal 30-35 times, waiting a second between each application, to self adjust the
drum to shoe clearance.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Replacing Drum and Components
Brake Drum: Service and Repair Replacing Drum and Components
NOTE: When installing new brake drums do not refinish the braking surface as these parts are at
the correct level of surface finish.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
NOTE: Raise vehicle and suitably support. Mark relationship of wheel to axle flange to insure
proper wheel balance upon assembly. Mark relationship of brake drum to axle flange to insure
proper wheel balance upon assembly.
1. Tire and wheel assembly.
Leading Trailing Drum Brake Assembly
2. Brake drum. If difficulty is encountered in removing the brake drum, the following steps may be
of assistance. Make sure parking brake is
released. Back off parking brake cable adjustment. Use a rubber mallet to tap gently on outer rim of
the drum and/or around inner drum diameter by spindle. Take care not to deform the drum by use
of excessive force. Using a screwdriver through the inspection hole, push the parking brake
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Replacing Drum and Components > Page 8055
lever arm off its' stop.
3. Top spring using J 38400. 4. Retractor spring using J 38400. 5. Parking brake equalization lever.
6. Shoe and lining assemblies after disconnection parking brake cable. 7. Adjusting screw
assembly. If any parts are of doubtful strength or quality due to discoloration from heat, over-stress,
or worn, the parts should be
replaced. Before reinstalling adjusting screw assembly it must be disassembled, thoroughly
cleaned and lubricated. Clean adjusting screw threads with a wire brush. Wash all components in
clean denatured alcohol. Apply brake lubricant GM P/N 1052196 (or equivalent) to the adjusting
screw threads, inside diameter of socket and socket face. Adequate lubrication is achieved when a
continuous bead of lubricant is at open end of pivot nut and socket when threads are fully engaged.
Lubricate 6 pads on backing plate where brake shoes contact backing plate. Inspect Threads of
adjusting screw for smooth rotation over full length.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Adjusting screw assembly.
2. Shoe and lining assemblies after connecting the parking brake cable. 3. Parking brake
equalization lever. 4. Retractor spring using J 38400. 5. Top spring using J 38400. Adjust Brakes.
See: Adjustments
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Replacing Drum and Components > Page 8056
6. Brake drum. 7. Tire and wheel assembly, aligning previous marks. 8. Lower vehicle. Adjust
Parking brake. See: Parking Brake System/Adjustments
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Replacing Drum and Components > Page 8057
Brake Drum: Service and Repair Balance
During manufacture, weights are used to balance brake drums. Do not remove these weights.
When having a problem with wheel balancing, especially after drums have been refinished, check
the drums for balance. They can be checked on most off-vehicle balancers. If found to be out of
balance, replace the drum.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Shoe > Component Information
> Specifications
Brake Shoe: Specifications
Replace the rear brake shoes when the thickness is worn to within 0.76 mm (0.030 inch) of the
shoe or rivet head.
Always replace the rear brake shoes as a complete axle set.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Wheel Cylinder Inspection Guidelines
Wheel Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Wheel Cylinder Inspection Guidelines
Bulletin No.: 03-05-24-001A
Date: March 21, 2005
INFORMATION
Subject: Service Information Regarding Rear Brake Drum Wheel Cylinder Inspections
Models: 2005 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2005 and Prior Saturn Vehicles
with Rear Drum Brakes
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised add model years and include all GM vehicles. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 03-05-24-001 (Section 03 - Suspension).
This bulletin provides information on proper inspection of rear drum brake wheel cylinders.
Important:
It is not recommended that dust boots be removed during inspection processes as dirt and debris
could contaminate the wheel cylinder bore causing premature wear of the wheel cylinder. In
addition, most bores should look damp and some lubricant may drip out from under the boot as a
result of lubricant being present.
All rear drum brake wheel cylinders are assembled with a lubricant to aid in assembly, provide an
anti-corrosion coating to the cylinder bore, and lubricate internal rubber components. As a result of
this lubrication process, it is not uncommon for some amount of lubricant to accumulate at the ends
of the cylinder under the dust boot.
Over time, the lubricant may work its way to the outside of the boot and cause an area of the boot
to look damp. Evidence of a damp area on the boot does not indicate a leak in the cylinder.
However, if there is excessive wetness (i.e. drips) coming from the boot area of the wheel cylinder,
it could indicate a brake hydraulic fluid leak requiring wheel cylinder replacement. (Refer to the
Wheel Cylinder Replacement procedures in the appropriate Service Manual.)
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8065
Wheel Cylinder: Specifications
Bore Diameter 0.87 in
Bleeder Screw 62 in.lb
Inlet Tube Nut 17 ft.lb
Wheel Cylinder to Backing Plate 15 ft.lb
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Replacement
Wheel Cylinder: Service and Repair Replacement
NOTE: Raise vehicle and suitably support. Clean Dirt and foreign material around wheel cylinder
assembly inlet and pilot.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Tire and Wheel Assembly. 2. Inlet tube nut and line. Plug opening in line to prevent fluid loss and
contamination.
Leading Trailing Drum Brake Assembly
3. Brake drum and Components. Do not let backing plate hang from parking brake cable. Damage
may occur. 4. Wheel cylinder bolts. 5. Wheel cylinder.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Wheel cylinder bolts. Tighten Wheel cylinder bolts to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Replacement > Page 8068
2. Brake drum and Components. 3. Inlet tube line and nut. 4. Tire and Wheel Assembly. Tighten
Inlet tube nut to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.). 5. Bleed wheel cylinder. See: Hydraulic System/Service and
Repair 6. Bleed brake system. See: Hydraulic System/Service and Repair
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Replacement > Page 8069
Wheel Cylinder: Service and Repair Overhaul
NOTE: Remove wheel cylinder from vehicle.
DISASSEMBLE
1. Boots. 2. Pistons and seals. 3. Spring assembly. 4. Bleeder valve. Inspect Cylinder bore and
pistons for scoring, nicks, corrosion and wear. Use crocus cloth to polish out light corrosion.
Replace
wheel cylinder assembly if bore will not clean up with crocus cloth. Clean All parts in clean
denatured alcohol. Dry parts with unlubricated compressed air. Lubricate new seals with clean
brake fluid.
ASSEMBLE
1. Bleeder valve. Tighten Bleeder valve to 7 Nm (62 inch lbs.). 2. Spring assembly. 3. Seals,
pistons and boots. 4. Install wheel cylinder to vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Bleeding > System
Information > Service and Repair > System Flushing
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair System Flushing
Manual
NOTE: In the following steps, use a suitable container and/or shop rags to catch fluid and prevent it
from contacting any painted surfaces. Clean Fluid reservoir cover and surrounding area.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Fluid reservoir cover. 2. Any remaining brake fluid in reservoir. 3. Refill reservoir with clean DOT
3 brake fluid to proper level.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Fluid reservoir cover. 2. Flush hydraulic modulator as follows:
a. Attach a clear plastic bleeder hose to rearward bleeder valve on the hydraulic modulator and
place the other end of hose in a container to
collect draining brake fluid. Do not submerge hose end into fluid.
b. Slowly open rearward bleeder valve one half to one full turn. c. Depress brake pedal until fluid
begins to flow. d. Close valve and release brake pedal. Repeat above steps until clean brake fluid
flows or at least 118 ml (4 ounces) of fluid is accumulated. e. Repeat above procedure for the
forward bleeder valve until clean brake fluid flows or at least 118 ml (4 ounces) of brake fluid is
accumulated.
Tighten Hydraulic modulator bleeder valves to 9 Nm (80 inch lbs.). Inspect Fluid level in reservoir
and fill to correct level if necessary.
3. Fluid reservoir cover. 4. Raise vehicle and suitably support 5. Flush wheel brakes in sequence
shown above. Flush sequence:
- Right rear.
- Left rear.
- Right front.
- Left front.
a. Attach bleeder hose to bleeder valve at each wheel and place the other end into a container to
collect draining brake fluid. Do not submerge
hose end in fluid.
b. Open bleeder valve. c. Slowly depress brake pedal. d. Close valve and slowly release brake
pedal. e. Repeat above procedure until clean brake fluid flows or at least 235 ml (8 ounces) of fluid
is accumulated.
6. Repeat Step 5 on left rear brake. 7. Repeat Step 5 on right front brake. 8. Repeat Step 5 on left
front brake. 9. Lower vehicle.
10. Replace all rubber components listed under Flushing Procedure. 11. Repeat flushing procedure
one more time. Inspect Fluid level in reservoir and fill to correct level if necessary. 12. Fluid
reservoir cap. 13. Bleed the entire brake hydraulic system.
Pressure
NOTE: If any brake component is repaired or replaced such that air is allowed to enter the brake
system, the entire bleeding procedure MUST be followed.
NOTE: Prior to bleeding the brakes, the front and rear displacement cylinder pistons must be
returned to the topmost position. The preferred method uses a Scan Tool to perform the rehoming
procedure. If a Scan Tool is not available, the second procedure may be used, but it is extremely
important that the procedure be followed exactly as outlined.
NOTE: Pressure bleeding equipment can be used to perform the flush procedure. The pressure
bleeding equipment used for flushing must be of the diaphragm type. It must have a rubber
diaphragm between the air supply and the brake fluid to prevent air, moisture, and other
contaminants from entering the hydraulic system. Clean Fluid reservoir cover and surrounding
area.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Fluid reservoir cover. 2. Any remaining brake fluid in reservoir. 3. Refill reservoir with clean DOT
3 brake fluid to proper level.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Bleeding > System
Information > Service and Repair > System Flushing > Page 8075
1. Bleeder adapter J 35589 to brake fluid reservoir. 2. Bleeder adapter to pressure bleeding
equipment. Adjust Pressure bleeding equipment to 35-70 kPa (5-10 psi) and wait for approximately
30
seconds to ensure there is no leakage. Pressure bleed equipment to 205-240 kPa (30-35 psi).
3. Proceed as follows with pressure bleeding equipment connected and pressurized: 4. Attach a
clear plastic hose to the rearward bleeder valve on the hydraulic modulator. Place the other end of
the hose in a container to collect
draining brake fluid. Do not submerge hose end into fluid.
5. Slowly open bleeder valve and allow fluid to flow until clean brake fluid flows or until at least 118
ml (4 ounces) of fluid is accumulated. 6. Close valve. 7. Repeat above procedure for the forward
bleeder valve until clean brake fluid flows or until at least 118 ml (4 ounces) of fluid is accumulated.
Tighten Hydraulic modulator bleeder valve to 9 Nm (80 inch lbs.).
8. Raise vehicle and suitably support. 9. Flush wheel brakes in sequence. Flush sequence:
- Right rear.
- Left rear.
- Right front.
- Left front
a. Attach bleeder hose to bleeder valve at each wheel and place the other end into a container to
collect draining brake fluid. Do not submerge
hose end in fluid.
b. Slowly open bleeder valve and allow fluid to flow. c. Close valve when clean brake fluid begins to
flow or at least 235 ml (8 ounces) of fluid is accumulated.
10. Repeat Step 9 on left rear wheel brake. 11. Repeat Step 9 on right front wheel brake. 12.
Repeat Step 9 on left front wheel brake. 13. Lower vehicle. 14. Remove bleeder adapter. 15.
Replace all rubber components listed under Flushing Procedure. 16. Repeat flushing procedure
one more time. Inspect Fluid level in reservoir and fill to correct level if necessary. 17. Fluid
reservoir cap. 18. Bleed the entire brake hydraulic system.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Bleeding > System
Information > Service and Repair > System Flushing > Page 8076
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair System Bleeding
Manual
NOTE: Use only DOT 3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed container. Do not use fluid from an open
container that may be contaminated with water. Do not use DOT 5 brake fluid.
NOTE: In the following steps, use a suitable container and/or shop cloths to catch fluid and prevent
it from contacting any painted surfaces. Clean Fluid reservoir cover and surrounding area. Inspect
Fluid level in reservoir and fill to the correct level if necessary.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Fluid reservoir cover. 2. Prime hydraulic modulator/master cylinder assembly.
a. Attach bleeder hose to rearward bleeder valve and submerge opposite hose end in clean
container partially filled with brake fluid. b. Slowly open rearward bleeder valve 1/2 to 3/4 turns. c.
Depress brake pedal and hold until fluid begins to flow. d. Close valve and release brake pedal.
Repeat Step 1 until no air bubbles are present. e. Repeat Steps 2b through 2d until fluids begins to
flow. f.
Relocate the bleeder hose to the forward hydraulic modulator bleeder valve and repeat Steps 2a
through 2e. Once fluid is seems to flow from both modulator bleeder valves, the hydraulic
modulator/master cylinder assembly is sufficiently full of fluid. However, it may not be completely
purged of air. At this point move to the wheel brakes and bleed them. This ensures that the lowest
points in the system are completely free of air and then the hydraulic modulator/master cylinder
assembly can be purged of any remaining air.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Fluid reservoir cover. Inspect Fluid level in reservoir and fill to the correct level if necessary.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Fluid reservoir cover. 2. Raise vehicle and suitably support.
3. Proceed as follows to bleed wheel brakes in sequence shown. Bleed sequence:
- Right rear.
- Left rear.
- Right front.
- Left front.
a. Attach a clear bleeder hose to bleeder valve at wheel and submerge opposite hose in clean
container partially filled with brake fluid. b. Open bleeder valve. c. Slowly depress brake pedal. d.
Close valve and slowly release brake pedal. e. Wait 5 seconds. f.
Repeat Steps 3a through 3e until the brake pedal feels firm at half travel and no air bubbles are
observed in the bleeder hose. To assist in freeing entrapped air, tap lightly on the caliper or braking
plate
4. Repeat Step 3 on left rear wheel brake. 5. Repeat Step 3 on right front wheel brake. 6. Repeat
Step 3 on left front wheel brake. 7. Lower vehicle.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Fluid reservoir cover. Inspect Fluid level in reservoir and fill to the correct level if necessary.
Pressure
NOTE: Pressure bleeding equipment must be of the diaphragm type. It must hive a rubber
diaphragm between the air supply and the brake fluid to prevent air, moisture and other
contaminants from entering the hydraulic system. Clean Fluid reservoir cover and surrounding
area. Inspect Fluid to be at proper level. Add clean brake fluid as required.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Bleeder adapter J 35589 to brake fluid reservoir. 2. Bleeder adapter to pressure bleeding
equipment. 3. Clear plastic bleeder hose to rearward bleeder valve. Submerge other end of bleeder
hose in clean container partially filled with brake fluid. Adjust
Pressure bleed equipment to 35-70 kPa (5-10 psi) and wait for approximately 30 seconds to insure
there is no leakage. Pressure bleed equipment to 205-240 kPa (30-35 psi).
4. Proceed as follows with pressure bleeding equipment connected and pressurized.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Bleeding > System
Information > Service and Repair > System Flushing > Page 8077
a. With bleeder hose connected to rearward bleeder valve on hydraulic modulator, slowly open
bleeder valve and allow fluid to flow until no air
is seen in fluid.
b. Close valve when fluid flows without any air bubbles. Reopen and repeat until no air bubbles
exist. c. Relocate bleeder hose on the forward bleeder valve on the hydraulic modulator and repeat
Steps 3 through 4b. Tighten Hydraulic modulator
bleeder valve to 9 Nm (80 inch lbs.).
NOTE: Use a shop cloth to catch escaping brake fluid. Take care to prevent fluid from running
down motor pack and into the bottom or electrical connector. A bleeder hose is not used to bleed
brake pipe connections.
5. Proceed to bleed the hydraulic modulator brake pipe connections as follows with pressure
bleeding equipment connected and pressurized.
a. Slowly open forward brake pipe tube nut on hydraulic modulator and check for air in escaping
fluid. b. When air flow ceases, immediately tighten tube nut. Tighten Tube nut to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.).
c. Repeat Steps 5a and 5b for remaining three brake pipe connections, moving from front to rear.
6. Raise vehicle and suitably support. 7. Proceed as follows to bleed wheel brakes in sequence.
Bleed sequence:
- Right rear.
- Left rear.
- Right front.
- Left front.
a. Attach bleeder hose to bleeder valve and submerge opposite hose end in clean container
partially filled with brake fluid. b. Slowly open bleeder valve and allow fluid to flow. c. Close valve
when fluid begins to flow without any air bubbles. Tap lightly with a rubber mallet to dislodge any
trapped air bubbles.
8. Repeat above sequence on left rear wheel brake. 9. Repeat above sequence on front wheel
brakes.
10. Lower vehicle. 11. Remove bleeder adapter J 35589. 12. Check fluid level in reservoir and fill to
the correct level using clean brake fluid, if necessary. 13. Install fluid reservoir cover and
diaphragm assembly. Inspect With the ignition switch in the "RUN" position, apply brake pedal with
moderate
force and hold. Note pedal travel and feel. If pedal feels firm and constant and pedal travel is not
excessive, start the engine. With the engine running, re-check the pedal travel. If it's still firm and
constant and pedal travel is not excessive, go to Step 13. If pedal feels soft or has excessive travel
either initially or after engine start. Use the Scan Tool, "Release" then "Apply" the motors 2 to 3
times and cycle the solenoids 5 to 10 times. Be sure to "Apply" the front and rear motors to ensure
the pistons are in the upmost position. Now repeat bleeding procedure.
14. Road test the vehicle. Make several normal (non-ABS) stops from a moderate speed to ensure
proper brake system function.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Specifications
Brake Caliper: Specifications
Caliper Bleeding Screw 115 in.lb
Caliper Bracket to Knuckle Bolts 85 ft.lb
Caliper Guide Pin Bolts 23 ft.lb
Caliper Inlet Fitting 37 ft.lb
Caliper Mounting Bolt to Caliper Bracket 23 ft.lb
Caliper Bore Diameter Front 2.36 in
Caliper Bore Diameter Rear 1.50 in
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 8081
Brake Caliper: Description and Operation
This caliper has a single bore and is mounted to the steering knuckle with two mounting bolts.
Hydraulic pressure, created by applying the brake pedal, is converted by the caliper to a stopping
force. This force acts equally against the caliper piston and the bottom of the caliper bore to move
the piston: outward and to move (slide) the caliper inward resulting in a clamping action on the
rotor. This clamping action forces the linings against the rotor, creating friction to stop the vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Replacement
Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Replacement
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remove 2/3 of brake fluid from master cylinder assembly. 2. Raise vehicle and suitably support.
Mark relationship of wheel to hub and bearing assembly, to insure proper wheel balance upon
reassembly. 3. Tire and wheel assembly. Reinstall two wheel nuts to retain rotor to hub and
bearing assembly.
4. Push piston into caliper bore to provide clearance between linings and rotor. Install a large
C-clamp over the top of the caliper housing and against
the back of the outboard pad. Slowly tighten C-clamp until piston is pushed into the caliper bore
enough to slide the caliper assembly off rotor. An alternate method used to compress the caliper
piston is to use a large adjustable pliers to compress piston when caliper has been removed from
rotor and is supported as shown.
5. Bolt attaching inlet fitting only when caliper is to be removed from vehicle for unit repair
(overhaul). If only brake pads are being replaced, there
is no need to disconnect inlet fitting. Plug exposed inlet fitting into caliper housing and brake hose
to prevent fluid loss and contamination.
Caliper Mounting
6. Caliper mounting bolts and sleeve assemblies.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Replacement > Page 8084
Disc Brake Caliper Assembly
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Replacement > Page 8085
7. Caliper from rotor and caliper bracket. Do not let caliper hang from brake hose. Damage may
occur. If the caliper assembly is not being removed
from the vehicle for unit repair, suspend the caliper with a wire hook from the strut as shown.
Inspect Mounting bolts and sleeve assemblies for corrosion. Bushings for cuts or nicks. If damage
to either part is found, replace with new parts when installing caliper. Do not attempt to polish away
corrosion.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Liberally coat inside diameter of bushings with silicone grease. 2. Mounting bolts and sleeve
assemblies. 3. Caliper over rotor on to caliper bracket. Tighten Mounting bolt and sleeve
assemblies to 51 Nm (38 ft. lbs.). 4. Inlet fitting, if removed. Tighten Inlet fitting to 50 Nm (37 ft.
lbs.). 5. Remove wheel nuts securing rotor to hub and bearing assembly. 6. Wheel and tire,
aligning previous marks. 7. Lower the vehicle. 8. Torque wheel nuts. 9. Fill master cylinder to
proper level with clean brake fluid. Bleed brake system if inlet fitting was removed. Recheck fluid
level. Recheck brake
pedal feel. If brake "Spongyness" is present. See: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Replacement > Page 8086
Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Overhaul
DISASSEMBLE
1. Remove caliper completely from vehicle. 2. Bushings. Inspect Bushings for cuts and nicks.
Replace if damaged.
CAUTION: On the following procedure do not place fingers in front of the piston in an attempt to
catch or protect it when applying compressed air. This could result in serious injury.
NOTE: Use clean shop towels to pad the interior of the caliper housing during removal.
3. Piston using compressed air into the caliper inlet hole. Inspect Piston for scoring, nicks,
corrosion and worn or damaged chrome plating. Replace
piston if any of these conditions are found.
4. Boot from caliper housing bore. Be careful not to scratch housing bore.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Replacement > Page 8087
5. Piston seal from seal groove in caliper housing bore with a small wood or plastic tool.
NOTE: Do not use a metal tool since this may damage caliper bore or seal groove.
6. Inspect Caliper housing bore and seal groove for scoring, nicks, corrosion and wear. Use crocus
cloth to polish out light corrosion. Replace caliper
housing if corrosion in and around seal groove will not clean up with crocus cloth.
7. Bleeder valve and bleeder valve cap from caliper. Clean All parts in clean, denatured alcohol.
Dry with unlubricated compressed air. Blow out all
passages in caliper housing and bleeder valve.
ASSEMBLE
1. Bleeder valve and bleeder valve cap into caliper. Tighten Bleeder valve to 13 Nm (115 inch lbs.).
2. Lubricate new piston seal and install into caliper bore groove. Make sure seal is not twisted. 3.
Lubricated boot onto piston.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Replacement > Page 8088
4. Piston and boot into bore of caliper and push to bottom of bore. 5. Seat boot in caliper housing
counter bore. 6. Bushings. Lubricate beveled end of bushing with silicone grease, GM P/N
1052863 or equivalent. Pinch bushing and install bevel end first. Push
bushing through housing mounting bore.
7. Caliper.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Replacement > Page 8089
Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Caliper Bracket Assembly Replacement
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Caliper assembly.
2. Knuckle bracket.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Knuckle bracket. 2. Caliper assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brake Fluid - Level & Filling Recommendations
Brake Fluid: Technical Service Bulletins Brake Fluid - Level & Filling Recommendations
File In Section: 05 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 00-05-22-004
Date: May, 2000
INFORMATION
Subject: Brake Fluid Level and Filling Recommendations
Models: 2001 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks
Many dealers and after-market repair shops advertise multi-point fluid "top-ups" in conjunction with
oil changes or regular maintenance packages. These offers often include adding brake fluid to the
master cylinder reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the brake
reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid level goes down an acceptable level during
normal brake lining wear. When the linings are replaced, the fluid will return to it's original level.
The second possible reason for a low fluid level is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If
fluid is leaking, the brake system requires repair and adding additional fluid will not correct the leak.
If the system was properly filled during delivery of the vehicle, no additional fluid should be required
under most circumstances between brake pad and/or shoe replacements. This information can be
reinforced with the customer by referring them to the Brake Fluid section of their vehicle's Owner's
Manual.
Guidelines
GM vehicles have incorporated a variety of brake fluid reservoir styles. The following guidelines are
restricted to the plastic bodied fluid reservoirs and do not affect the original service
recommendations for the older style metal bodied units.
You may encounter both black plastic and translucent style reservoirs. You may have reservoirs
with:
^ A MAX fill mark only
^ A MIN fill mark only
^ Both MAX and MIN marks
The translucent style reservoirs do not have to have the covers removed in order to view the fluid
level. It is a good practice not to remove the reservoir cover unless necessary to reduce the
possibility of contaminating the system. Use the following guidelines to assist in determining the
proper fluid level.
Important:
When adding brake fluid, use Delco Supreme II(R) Brake Fluid, GM P/N 12377967 or equivalent
brand bearing the DOT-3 rating only.
Important:
At no time should the fluid level be allowed to remain in an overfilled condition. Overfilling the brake
reservoir may put unnecessary stress on the seals and cover of the reservoir. Use the following
guidelines to properly maintain the fluid level. If the reservoir is overfilled, siphon out the additional
fluid to comply with the guidelines below.
Important:
If under any circumstance the brake fluid level is extremely low in the reservoir or the BRAKE
warning indicator is illuminated, the brake system should be checked for leaks and the system
repaired in addition to bringing the fluid level up to the recommended guidelines outlined below. A
leaking brake system will have reduced braking performance and will eventually not work at all.
Important:
Some vehicles have reservoirs that are very sensitive to brake fluid levels and may cause the
BRAKE indicator to flicker on turns as the fluid approaches the minimum required level. If you
encounter a vehicle with this concern, increase the fluid level staying within the guidelines outlined
below.
^ If the reservoir has a MAX level indicator, the reservoir should be returned to the MAX marking
only at the time new brake pads and/or shoes are installed. If the reservoir fluid level is at the
half-way point or above do not attempt to add additional brake fluid during routine fluid checks.
^ If the reservoir has both MAX and MIN indicators, the fluid level should be maintained above the
MIN indicator during routine fluid checks and returned to the MAX indication only after new brake
pads and/or shoes are installed.
^ For reservoirs with only a MIN indication, the fluid level should be maintained above the MIN
indicator during routine fluid checks. Return the
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brake Fluid - Level & Filling Recommendations > Page 8094
reservoir fluid level to full only after installing new brake pads and/or shoes. A full reservoir is
indicated on translucent, snap cover reservoirs by a fluid level even with the top level of the view
window imprinted into the side of the reservoir. On screw top models in black or translucent plastic,
the full level is just below the bottom of the filler neck.
Parts Information
Part Number Description
12377967 Brake Fluid
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8095
Brake Fluid: Specifications
Brake System DOT 3
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
Brake Fluid: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
With the engine running at idle and the shift lever in neutral, depress the brake pedal and hold a
constant foot pressure on the pedal. If the pedal gradually falls away with the constant pressure,
the hydraulic system may be leaking. Perform a visual inspection to confirm any suspected leak.
Check the master cylinder fluid level. While a slight drop in reservoir level does result from normal
lining wear, an abnormally low level in either reservoir may indicate a leak in the system. The
hydraulic system may be leaking either internally or externally. Also, the system may appear to
pass this test but still have slight leakage. If the fluid level is normal and no external leaks are found
at the brake pipe or hose connections or at the caliper or wheel cylinder boots. Check the service
brake pedal travel, brake adjustment and the parking brake adjustment.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures > Page 8098
Brake Fluid: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
CAUTION: Use only DOT 3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed container. Do not use any fluid from a
container which is wet with water. Do not use DOT 5 silicone brake fluid. Improper brake fluid,
mineral oil or water in the fluid may cause the brake fluid to boil or the rubber components to
deteriorate. Keep all fluid containers capped to prevent contamination. Improper brake fluid,
mineral oil or water in the fluid may cause the brake fluid to boil or the rubber components in the
hydraulic system to deteriorate.
Upon inspection, if primary piston cups are swollen, then rubber parts have deteriorated. This
deterioration may also be evidenced by swollen wheel cylinder piston cups on the drum brake
wheel cylinders or the master cylinder cover diaphragm. If deterioration of rubber is evident,
disassemble all hydraulic parts and wash with alcohol. Dry these parts with unlubricated
compressed air before assembly to keep alcohol out of the system. Replace all rubber parts in the
system, including hoses. Also, when working on the brake mechanisms, check for fluid on the
brake linings. If any fluid is found, replace the linings. If master cylinder piston seals are
satisfactory, check for leakage or excessive heat conditions. If condition is not found, drain fluid,
flush with brake fluid, refill and bleed the system.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 8099
Brake Fluid: Service and Repair
Use Delco Supreme II Brake Fluid (GM P/N 1052535) or an equivalent DOT-3 motor vehicle brake
fluid. DOT-5 silicone fluid is not recommended for use in the vehicle's base brake system. DOT-5
brake fluid should never be used in the antilock brake system. Brake fluid should always be stored
in a closed container. Reseal brake fluid containers immediately after use. Brake fluid left in an
open or improperly sealed container will absorb moisture. This can lower the fluid's boiling point
and may result in system contamination, corrosion or deterioration of rubber components.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch
> Component Information > Locations
Rear Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Page 8103
Brake Fluid Level Switch
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Page 8104
Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Description and Operation
The master cylinder is equipped with a fluid level switch located in the side of the master cylinder
reservoir. This switch will activate the red "BRAKE" light if a low fluid condition is detected. Once
the fluid level is corrected the "BRAKE" light will go out.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Page 8105
Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Electrical connector from fluid level switch.
2. Fluid level switch using needle nose pliers to compress switch locking tabs at inboard side of
master cylinder reservoir.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Fluid level switch into master cylinder reservoir until locking tabs snap in place. 2. Electrical
connector to fluid level switch.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Hose/Line > Component
Information > Specifications
Brake Hose/Line: Specifications
FASTENER TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS
Brake Pipes At Master Cylinder
...........................................................................................................................................................
23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.) Brake Pipes At ABS Modulator
...........................................................................................................................................................
23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.) Brake Pipe Tube Nuts ............................................................................................
............................................................................... 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Hose/Line > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 8109
Brake Hose/Line: Service Precautions
CAUTION: Always use double walled steel brake pipe when replacing brake pipes. The use of any
other pipe is not recommended and may cause brake system failure. Carefully route and retain
replacement brake pipes. Always use the correct fasteners and the original location for
replacement brake pipes. Failure to properly route and retain brake pipes may cause damage to
the brake pipes and cause brake system failure.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Hose/Line > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 8110
Brake Hose/Line: Testing and Inspection
Hydraulic brake hoses should be inspected at least twice a year. Check brake hose assemblies for:
- Road hazard damage.
- Cracks and chafing of outer cover.
- Leaks and blisters.
- Proper routing and mounting.
If you find any of these conditions, adjust or replace the hose assembly. A brake hose which rubs
on other components will wear and eventually fail. A light and mirror can be helpful to thoroughly
inspect the hose assemblies.
NOTE: Never allow brake components such as calipers to hang from the flexible hoses as damage
to the hoses may occur. Some brake hoses have protective rings or covers to prevent direct
contact of the hose with other chassis parts. Besides causing possible structural damage to the
hose, excessive tension could cause the hose rings to move out of their proper locations.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Hose/Line > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 8111
Brake Hose/Line: Service and Repair
NOTE: Do not use single lap flaring tools. Double lap flaring tools must be used to produce a flare
strong enough to hold the system pressure. Using lap single flaring tools could cause system
damage. Recommend using J-29803-A ISO Flaring Tool
1. Obtain the recommended pipe and steel fitting nuts of the correct size. Outside diameter of pipe
is used to specify size. 2. Cut pipe to length with a pipe cutter. Do not force the cutter, advance the
tool only a small amount per turn of the tool. Correct length of pipe may
be determined by measuring old pipe using a string and adding 3.2 mm (1/8 inches) for each ISO
flare.
3. Make sure fittings are installed before starting flare. 4. Chamfer the inside and outside diameter
of the pipe with the de-burring tool. 5. Remove all traces of lubricant from brake pipe and flaring
tool. 6. Clamp the flaring tool body in vise.
Forming Mandrel And Forcing Screw
7. Select the correct size collet and forming mandrel for pipe size used. 8. Insert the proper forming
mandrel into the tool body. While holding forming mandrel in place with your finger, thread in the
forcing screw until it
makes contact and begins to move the forming mandrel. When contact is made, turn the forcing
screw back one complete turn.
Clamping Nut And Collet
9. Slide the clamping nut over the brake pipe and insert the prepared brake pipe into the correct
collet. Leave approximately 19 mm (0.750 inches) of
tubing extending out the collet. Insert the assembly into the tool body. The brake pipe end must
contact the face of the forming mandrel.
10. Tighten the clamping nut into the tool body very tight or the pipe may push out. 11. Wrench
tighten the forcing screw in until it bottoms. Do not over tighten the forcing screw or the flare may
become over-sized.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Hose/Line > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 8112
ISO Flare
12. Back the clamping nut out of the tool body and disassemble the clamping nut and collet
assembly. The flare is now ready for use. 13. Bend pipe assembly to match old pipe. Clearance of
19 mm (0.750 inches) must be maintained to all moving or vibrating parts.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake
Proportioning/Combination Valve > Component Information > Specifications
Brake Proportioning/Combination Valve: Specifications
TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS
Proportioning Valve Screws
............................................................................................................................................................
12 Nm (106 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake
Proportioning/Combination Valve > Component Information > Specifications > Page 8116
Brake Proportioning/Combination Valve: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The proportioning valve is bolted directly to the ABS hydraulic modulator assembly which is located
beneath the battery tray.
OPERATION
The proportioning valve limits outlet pressure to the rear brakes after a predetermined master
cylinder pressure has been reached. This is used when less rear apply force is needed to obtain
optimum braking.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake
Proportioning/Combination Valve > Component Information > Specifications > Page 8117
Brake Proportioning/Combination Valve: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Battery. 2. Battery tray. 3. Drain cooling system. 4. Partially remove upper radiator hose from
radiator. 5. Solenoid and motorpack electrical connections.
ABS Modulator Brake Pipe Routing And Proportioning Valve
6. Brake pipes from modulator assembly. 7. Modulator to bracket mounting nut.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake
Proportioning/Combination Valve > Component Information > Specifications > Page 8118
Master Cylinder Brake Pipe Routing
8. Hydraulic modulator assembly (Slide out of slot toward rear of vehicle). 9. Brake proportioning
valve.
NOTE: Gasket between proportioning valve and hydraulic modulator assembly must be replaced
whenever these components are separated.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Brake proportioning valve. 2. Hydraulic modulator assembly. (Slide in slot toward front of
vehicle). Tighten bolts to 12 Nm (106 inch lbs.). 3. Modulator to bracket mounting bolt. 4. Brake
pipes from modulator assembly. 5. Solenoid and motorpack electrical connections. 6. Upper
radiator hose to radiator. 7. Drain cooling system. 8. Battery tray. 9. Battery.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Specifications
Hydraulic Assembly: Specifications
TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS
Hydraulic Modulator Bleeder Valves
............................................................................................................................................ 9 Nm (80
inch lbs.) Hydraulic Modulator Bracket Mounting Bolt
................................................................................................................................. 25 Nm (18 ft.
lbs.) Hydraulic Modulator Drive Gear Nut
........................................................................................................................................ 8.5 Nm (76
inch lbs.) Hydraulic Modulator Mounting Nut
............................................................................................................................................... 30 Nm
(22 ft. lbs.) Hydraulic Modulator Solenoid Screw
........................................................................................................................................... 5 Nm (44
inch lbs.) Motor Pack Screws ..............................................................................................................
......................................................... 5 Nm (44 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Specifications > Page 8122
LF Wheel
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Specifications > Page 8123
ABS Actuator Motor Assembly
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Specifications > Page 8124
Hydraulic Assembly: Service Precautions
WARNING: To help avoid personal injury due to a retained load on the hydraulic modulator, the
GEAR TENSION RELIEF function of the scan tool must be performed prior to removal of the ABS
hydraulic modulator assembly
.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Specifications > Page 8125
Hydraulic Assembly: Description and Operation
The hydraulic modulator assembly controls hydraulic pressure to the front calipers and rear wheel
cylinders by modulating hydraulic pressure to prevent wheel slip. The basic hydraulic modulator
configuration consists of gear subassemblies, ballscrews, nuts, pistons, and hydraulic check
valves. The motor pack consists of three motors, three drive gears and three ESB's.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Replacement
Hydraulic Assembly: Service and Repair Gear Replacement
WARNING: To help avoid personal injury, due to a retained load on the ABS hydraulic modulator,
the GEAR TENSION RELIEF function of the scan tool must be performed prior to removal of the
ABS hydraulic modulator.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to repair damaged motor packs or hydraulic modulation. Other than
modulator drive gear replacement, repair of these assemblies is not authorized. Do not lubricate or
oil gears or motor pack.
DISASSEMBLE
1. Hydraulic Modulator Assembly. 2. Screws attaching gear cover. 3. Motor pack to hydraulic
modulator screws.
NOTE: Take care in handling the motor pack. If dropped or damaged in the handling, the motor
pack must be replaced.
4. Separate motor pack from hydraulic modulator.
NOTE: Do not allow gear to turn while removing the retaining nut, since the modulator piston can
hit the top of the modulator bore, damaging the piston. Turn the modulator gear to position the
piston in the center of its travel. Place a screwdriver through the holes in the gears (not between
the gears) into the recessed hole in the modulator base. This will prevent the gear from turning,
aiding in gear removal.
5. Three modulator drive gear to modulator drive shaft retaining nuts.
6. Gears from modulator.
ASSEMBLE
NOTE: Do not allow gear to turn while tightening the retaining nut, since the modulator piston can
bottom out in the modulator bore damaging the piston. Turn the modulator gear to position the
piston in the center of its travel. Place a screwdriver through the holes in the gears (not between
the gears) into the recessed hole in the modulator base. This will prevent the gear from turning,
aiding in gear installation.
1. Position hydraulic modulator drive gears onto hydraulic modulator drive shaft. 2. Three gear
retaining nuts. Tighten Nuts to 8.5 Nm (76 inch lbs.). 3. With the hydraulic modulator upside down,
and the gears facing you, rotate each hydraulic modulator gear counterclockwise until movement
stops. This procedure will position the pistons very close to the top of the hydraulic modulator bore,
simplifying the brake bleeding procedure.
4. Position motor pack onto hydraulic modulator, aligning the three. motor pack gears with the
modulator. Take care in handling the motor pack. If
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Replacement > Page 8128
dropped or damaged during handling, the motor pack must be replaced.
5. Motor pack to hydraulic modulator screws. Tighten screws to 5 Nm (44 inch lbs.). 6. Gear cover
onto hydraulic modulator with screws. Tighten screws to 4 Nm (36 inch lbs.). 7. Hydraulic
modulator into vehicle. 8. Perform Diagnostic System Check. See: Antilock Brakes / Traction
Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Replacement > Page 8129
Hydraulic Assembly: Service and Repair Hydraulic Modulator
DISASSEMBLE
1. Hydraulic modulator assembly. 2. Screws attaching gear cover. 3. Remove gear cover. 4.
Screws attaching motor pack to hydraulic modulator. 5. Remove motor pack. 6. Proportioning valve
mounting screws. 7. Remove Proportioning valve.
NOTE: If hydraulic modulator is to be replaced, install the three gears in the same location on
replacement hydraulic modulator. No repair of the hydraulic modulator is authorized. Replace as an
assembly.
ASSEMBLE
1. Proportioning Valve to Hydraulic Modulator. Tighten Proportioning Valve screws to 12 Nm (106
inch lbs.). A new gasket MUST be used when
installing the Proportioning Valve.
2. With the hydraulic modulator upside down, and the gears facing you, rotate each hydraulic
modulator gear counterclockwise until movement
stops. This procedure will position the pistons very close to the top of the hydraulic modulator bore.
3. Motor pack to hydraulic modulator assembly. 4. Motor pack to hydraulic modulator screws.
Tighten Motor pack to hydraulic modulator screws to 5 Nm (44 inch lbs.). 5. Gear cover to hydraulic
modulator assembly. If the gear cover seal is damaged, the cover must be replaced. Tighten Gear
cover screws to 4 Nm
(36 inch lbs.).
6. Hydraulic modulator into vehicle. 7. Perform Diagnostic System Check. See: Antilock Brakes /
Traction Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Replacement > Page 8130
Hydraulic Assembly: Service and Repair Hydraulic Modulator Assembly Replacement
WARNING: To help avoid personal injury due to a retained load on the hydraulic modulator, the
GEAR TENSION RELIEF function of the scan tool must be performed prior to removal of the ABS
hydraulic modulator assembly.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Using the scan tool, perform GEAR TENSION RELIEF function under SPECIAL FUNCTIONS. 2.
Battery. 3. Battery tray. 4. Upper radiator hose.
5. Solenoid electrical connectors. 6. Motor Pack electrical connector.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Replacement > Page 8131
7. Brake pipes. Note position.
8. Hydraulic modulator assembly to bracket mounting nut. 9. Hydraulic modulator assembly.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Hydraulic modulator assembly. 2. Hydraulic modulator assembly to bracket mounting nut.
Tighten Nut to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Replacement > Page 8132
3. Brake pipes to Hydraulic Modulator. Use locations noted during removal.
WARNING: Make sure brake pipes are correctly connected to BPMV. If brake pipes are switched
by mistake (inlet vs. outlet), wheel lockup will occur and personal injury may result. Tighten Brake
pipes to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
4. Motor Pack electrical connector. 5. Solenoid electrical connectors. 6. Upper radiator hose. 7.
Battery tray. 8. Battery and bleed system. See: Service and Repair 9. Perform Diagnostic System
Check. See: Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Replacement > Page 8133
Hydraulic Assembly: Service and Repair Hydraulic Modulator Bracket
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Hydraulic modulator assembly.
2. Bracket mounting bolts. 3. Bracket.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Bracket onto subframe. 2. Bracket mounting bolts. Tighten Bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.). 3.
Hydraulic modulator assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Replacement > Page 8134
Hydraulic Assembly: Service and Repair
Gear Replacement
WARNING: To help avoid personal injury, due to a retained load on the ABS hydraulic modulator,
the GEAR TENSION RELIEF function of the scan tool must be performed prior to removal of the
ABS hydraulic modulator.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to repair damaged motor packs or hydraulic modulation. Other than
modulator drive gear replacement, repair of these assemblies is not authorized. Do not lubricate or
oil gears or motor pack.
DISASSEMBLE
1. Hydraulic Modulator Assembly. 2. Screws attaching gear cover. 3. Motor pack to hydraulic
modulator screws.
NOTE: Take care in handling the motor pack. If dropped or damaged in the handling, the motor
pack must be replaced.
4. Separate motor pack from hydraulic modulator.
NOTE: Do not allow gear to turn while removing the retaining nut, since the modulator piston can
hit the top of the modulator bore, damaging the piston. Turn the modulator gear to position the
piston in the center of its travel. Place a screwdriver through the holes in the gears (not between
the gears) into the recessed hole in the modulator base. This will prevent the gear from turning,
aiding in gear removal.
5. Three modulator drive gear to modulator drive shaft retaining nuts.
6. Gears from modulator.
ASSEMBLE
NOTE: Do not allow gear to turn while tightening the retaining nut, since the modulator piston can
bottom out in the modulator bore damaging the piston. Turn the modulator gear to position the
piston in the center of its travel. Place a screwdriver through the holes in the gears (not between
the gears) into the recessed hole in the modulator base. This will prevent the gear from turning,
aiding in gear installation.
1. Position hydraulic modulator drive gears onto hydraulic modulator drive shaft. 2. Three gear
retaining nuts. Tighten Nuts to 8.5 Nm (76 inch lbs.). 3. With the hydraulic modulator upside down,
and the gears facing you, rotate each hydraulic modulator gear counterclockwise until movement
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Replacement > Page 8135
stops. This procedure will position the pistons very close to the top of the hydraulic modulator bore,
simplifying the brake bleeding procedure.
4. Position motor pack onto hydraulic modulator, aligning the three. motor pack gears with the
modulator. Take care in handling the motor pack. If
dropped or damaged during handling, the motor pack must be replaced.
5. Motor pack to hydraulic modulator screws. Tighten screws to 5 Nm (44 inch lbs.). 6. Gear cover
onto hydraulic modulator with screws. Tighten screws to 4 Nm (36 inch lbs.). 7. Hydraulic
modulator into vehicle. 8. Perform Diagnostic System Check. See: Antilock Brakes / Traction
Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
Hydraulic Modulator
DISASSEMBLE
1. Hydraulic modulator assembly. 2. Screws attaching gear cover. 3. Remove gear cover. 4.
Screws attaching motor pack to hydraulic modulator. 5. Remove motor pack. 6. Proportioning valve
mounting screws. 7. Remove Proportioning valve.
NOTE: If hydraulic modulator is to be replaced, install the three gears in the same location on
replacement hydraulic modulator. No repair of the hydraulic modulator is authorized. Replace as an
assembly.
ASSEMBLE
1. Proportioning Valve to Hydraulic Modulator. Tighten Proportioning Valve screws to 12 Nm (106
inch lbs.). A new gasket MUST be used when
installing the Proportioning Valve.
2. With the hydraulic modulator upside down, and the gears facing you, rotate each hydraulic
modulator gear counterclockwise until movement
stops. This procedure will position the pistons very close to the top of the hydraulic modulator bore.
3. Motor pack to hydraulic modulator assembly. 4. Motor pack to hydraulic modulator screws.
Tighten Motor pack to hydraulic modulator screws to 5 Nm (44 inch lbs.). 5. Gear cover to hydraulic
modulator assembly. If the gear cover seal is damaged, the cover must be replaced. Tighten Gear
cover screws to 4 Nm
(36 inch lbs.).
6. Hydraulic modulator into vehicle. 7. Perform Diagnostic System Check. See: Antilock Brakes /
Traction Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
Hydraulic Modulator Assembly Replacement
WARNING: To help avoid personal injury due to a retained load on the hydraulic modulator, the
GEAR TENSION RELIEF function of the scan tool must be performed prior to removal of the ABS
hydraulic modulator assembly.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Using the scan tool, perform GEAR TENSION RELIEF function under SPECIAL FUNCTIONS.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Replacement > Page 8136
2. Battery. 3. Battery tray. 4. Upper radiator hose.
5. Solenoid electrical connectors. 6. Motor Pack electrical connector.
7. Brake pipes. Note position.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Replacement > Page 8137
8. Hydraulic modulator assembly to bracket mounting nut. 9. Hydraulic modulator assembly.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Hydraulic modulator assembly. 2. Hydraulic modulator assembly to bracket mounting nut.
Tighten Nut to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.).
3. Brake pipes to Hydraulic Modulator. Use locations noted during removal.
WARNING: Make sure brake pipes are correctly connected to BPMV. If brake pipes are switched
by mistake (inlet vs. outlet), wheel lockup will occur and personal injury may result. Tighten Brake
pipes to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
4. Motor Pack electrical connector. 5. Solenoid electrical connectors. 6. Upper radiator hose. 7.
Battery tray. 8. Battery and bleed system. See: Service and Repair 9. Perform Diagnostic System
Check. See: Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
Hydraulic Modulator Bracket
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Hydraulic modulator assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Replacement > Page 8138
2. Bracket mounting bolts. 3. Bracket.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Bracket onto subframe. 2. Bracket mounting bolts. Tighten Bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.). 3.
Hydraulic modulator assembly.
Hydraulic Modulator Solenoid
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Battery. 2. Battery tray. 3. Solenoid electrical connector.
4. Solenoid screws. 5. Solenoid.
NOTE: Be sure the seal is still attached to the solenoid when it is removed. If not, check solenoid
bore in modulator. Do not attempt to disassemble solenoid, it is serviceable only as an assembly.
Lubricate seal on new solenoid with clean brake fluid.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. New solenoid. Verify that the solenoid lip seal is properly positioned before solenoid is installed
in hydraulic modulator. Position solenoid so that
its electrical connector will face the same direction as the solenoid that was removed. By hand,
press down finely on solenoid until its flange seats on ABS hydraulic modulator.
2. Solenoid screws. Tighten Screws to 5 Nm (44 inch lbs.). 3. Solenoid electrical connector to
solenoid.
NOTE: Make sure the solenoid connectors are installed on correct solenoids. It is necessary to
bleed hydraulic modulator.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Assembly, Traction
Control > Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Replacement > Page 8139
4. Battery tray. 5. Battery. 6. Perform Diagnostic System Check.
Motor Pack
WARNING: To help avoid personal Injury, due to a retained load on the AIDS hydraulic modulator,
the GEAR TENSION RELIEF function of the scan tool must be performed prior to removal of the
ABS hydraulic modulator.
DISASSEMBLE
1. Hydraulic Modulator Assembly. 2. Screws attaching gear cover. 3. Remove gear cover.
4. Screws attaching motor pack to hydraulic modulator. 5. Motor pack from hydraulic modulator.
NOTE: Use care when handling motor pack to ensure motor pack connector is not damaged, or
accidental intrusion of brake fluid into the motor pack does not occur. This may result in a
premature failure of the motor pack. Take care in handling the motor pack. If dropped or damaged
during handling, the motor pack must be replaced. If disassembly of the hydraulic modulator
assembly was due to an ABS hydraulic functional test that did not pass, the Automated Motor Pack
Diagnosis Test should be performed at this time to isolate the motor pack or hydraulic modulator.
No repair of the motor pack is authorized. Replace as an assembly.
ASSEMBLE
1. Motor pack to hydraulic modulator.
NOTE: Take care in handling the motor pack. If dropped or damaged during handling the motor
pack must be replaced. Align each of the three motor pack pinions with the hydraulic modulator
gears.
2. Motor pack to hydraulic modulator attaching screws. Tighten Motor pack to hydraulic modulator
attaching screws to 5 Nm (44 inch lbs.). 3. Gear cover to hydraulic modulator. 4. Screws attaching
gear cover. Tighten Screws to 4 Nm (36 inch lbs.). 5. Hydraulic Modulator Assembly into vehicle. 6.
Using the scan tool, perform the MOTOR REHOME procedure. 7. Perform Diagnostic System
Check. See: Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Control Assembly Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Hydraulic Control Assembly
- Antilock Brakes: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286)
Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: Customer Interest Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 &
86 (C1246 & C1286)
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-26
Date: August, 1997
Subject: ABS Light On - DTC's 46 and 86 Set (Perform Diagnostic Procedure, Replace Center ABS
Motor Pinion)
Models: 1991-97 Buick Skylark 1992-97 Buick Regal 1994-97 Buick Century 1992-96 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica, Lumina APV 1992-97 Chevrolet Cavalier, Lumina, 1993-97 Chevrolet Camaro
1995-97 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1997
Chevrolet Malibu, Venture
1993-97 Geo Prizm 1995-97 Geo Metro 1996-97 Geo Tracker 1991
Oldsmobile Calais
1992-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1992-97 Oldsmobile Achieva, Cutlass Supreme, Silhouette
1997
Oldsmobile Cutlass
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
1991-97 Pontiac Grand Am 1992-94 Pontiac Sunbird 1992-97 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1993-97 Pontiac Firebird, Trans Am 1995-97 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition
Some owners may comment that the ABS light is on with Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) 46
and 86 set (rear ABS channel will not move) as current or history. (DTC's 46 and 86 will be
displayed as C1246 and C1286 on 1997 and 1998 model year vehicles).
Cause
A condition exists where the ABS motor pack gear (pinion) will bind on the motor armature shaft
causing the motor not to move when commanded by the EBCM. This condition is aggravated by
light corrosion between the pinion and shaft. Therefore, it may occur more frequently when the
weather is hot and humid.
Important:
Other EBCM and ABS motor pack concerns can also cause this condition, but they are not as
common as the above cause.
Correction
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Control Assembly Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Hydraulic Control Assembly
- Antilock Brakes: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 8148
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Control Assembly Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Hydraulic Control Assembly
- Antilock Brakes: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 8149
Follow the included procedure (Attachments 1 and 2) for diagnosis. This condition may correct
itself before the owner is able to bring the vehicle in for service. Therefore, if DTC 46 is set in
history, and is not currently setting, the included procedure will instruct you to replace the center
ABS motor pinion. The new pinion has a Teflon insert which reduces friction between the pinion
and motor armature shaft.
Pinion Replacement
If the included procedure instructs you to replace the center ABS motor pinion, use P/N 18029776.
Please note that the new pinion is a direct replacement part which requires no modifications to the
motor shaft. Follow the pinion replacement procedure included with the new pinion. Complete
motor pack replacement is not required.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
H2506 Use published labor
operation time.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Control Assembly Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Hydraulic
Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286)
Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - ABS Light
ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286)
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-26
Date: August, 1997
Subject: ABS Light On - DTC's 46 and 86 Set (Perform Diagnostic Procedure, Replace Center ABS
Motor Pinion)
Models: 1991-97 Buick Skylark 1992-97 Buick Regal 1994-97 Buick Century 1992-96 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica, Lumina APV 1992-97 Chevrolet Cavalier, Lumina, 1993-97 Chevrolet Camaro
1995-97 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1997
Chevrolet Malibu, Venture
1993-97 Geo Prizm 1995-97 Geo Metro 1996-97 Geo Tracker 1991
Oldsmobile Calais
1992-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1992-97 Oldsmobile Achieva, Cutlass Supreme, Silhouette
1997
Oldsmobile Cutlass
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
1991-97 Pontiac Grand Am 1992-94 Pontiac Sunbird 1992-97 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1993-97 Pontiac Firebird, Trans Am 1995-97 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition
Some owners may comment that the ABS light is on with Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) 46
and 86 set (rear ABS channel will not move) as current or history. (DTC's 46 and 86 will be
displayed as C1246 and C1286 on 1997 and 1998 model year vehicles).
Cause
A condition exists where the ABS motor pack gear (pinion) will bind on the motor armature shaft
causing the motor not to move when commanded by the EBCM. This condition is aggravated by
light corrosion between the pinion and shaft. Therefore, it may occur more frequently when the
weather is hot and humid.
Important:
Other EBCM and ABS motor pack concerns can also cause this condition, but they are not as
common as the above cause.
Correction
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Control Assembly Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Hydraulic
Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) >
Page 8155
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Control Assembly Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Hydraulic
Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) >
Page 8156
Follow the included procedure (Attachments 1 and 2) for diagnosis. This condition may correct
itself before the owner is able to bring the vehicle in for service. Therefore, if DTC 46 is set in
history, and is not currently setting, the included procedure will instruct you to replace the center
ABS motor pinion. The new pinion has a Teflon insert which reduces friction between the pinion
and motor armature shaft.
Pinion Replacement
If the included procedure instructs you to replace the center ABS motor pinion, use P/N 18029776.
Please note that the new pinion is a direct replacement part which requires no modifications to the
motor shaft. Follow the pinion replacement procedure included with the new pinion. Complete
motor pack replacement is not required.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
H2506 Use published labor
operation time.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Control Assembly Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8157
LF Wheel
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Control Assembly Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Diagrams > Harness Connector
RF ABS Solenoid
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Control Assembly Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Diagrams > Harness Connector > Page 8160
LF ABS Solenoid
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Control Assembly Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 8161
Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The Expansion Spring Brake (ESB) is used to hold the piston in the uproots (or home) position. An
ESB is a spring that is retained in a housing at a close tolerance. One end of the spring is in
contact with the motor drive dog and the other end is in contact with the pinion drive dog. In normal
braking, brake pressure is present on the top of the piston, applying a downward force. The force
applies a counterclockwise torque to the motor pinion which tries to rotate the spring
counterclockwise. The counterclockwise torque expands the spring outward within the housing and
prevents gear rotation.
OPERATION
When the motor is turned on and tries to drive the ball screw nut, the end of the ESB in contact with
the motor drive log rotates inward causing the spring to contract in its housing allowing the motor to
rotate the modulator gear. The most common application of this principle is in window crank
mechanisms, where a small amount of force on the crank handle allows the window to be lowered
or raised, but the weight of the window or force on the window will not allow the window to move
downward. For the ESB, brake pressure on the top of the pistons corresponds to the weight of the
window and the motor corresponds to the window crank handle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Specifications
Brake Master Cylinder: Specifications
DIMENSIONS
Bore Diameter .....................................................................................................................................
......................................... 25.40 mm (1.00 inches)
TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS
Master Cylinder to Booster ..................................................................................................................
................................................. 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.) Brake Pipes at Master Cylinder
............................................................................................................................................................
23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service Precautions > Technician Safety Information
Brake Master Cylinder: Technician Safety Information
WARNING: Brake fluid may be irritating to skin or eyes, or may cause nausea, vomiting or diarrhea
if swallowed. In case of contact or swallowing take the following actions:
Eye contact - rinse thoroughly with water. Skin contact - wash with soap and water. If swallowed Contact a physician immediately. Give two glasses of water and induce vomiting by sticking finger
down throat
.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service Precautions > Technician Safety Information > Page 8167
Brake Master Cylinder: Vehicle Damage Warnings
Fluid Warning
CAUTION: Use only DOT 3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed container. Do not use any fluid from a
container which is wet with water. Do not use DOT 5 silicone brake fluid. Improper brake fluid,
mineral oil or water in the fluid may cause the brake fluid to boil or the rubber components to
deteriorate. Keep all fluid containers capped to prevent contamination.
Chemical Warning
CAUTION: Avoid spilling brake fluid on any of the vehicle's painted surfaces, wiring, cables or
electrical connectors. Brake fluid will damage paint and electrical connections. If any fluid is spilled
on the vehicle, flush the area with water to lessen the damage.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Description and Operation > General Description, ABS
Brake Master Cylinder: Description and Operation General Description, ABS
This master cylinder is a composite design for use in a diagonally split hydraulic system. It
incorporates the functions of the standard dual master cylinder plus it has a fluid level switch and
integral proportioners.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Description and Operation > General Description, ABS > Page 8170
Brake Master Cylinder: Description and Operation Master Cylinder Description
This master cylinder is a composite design for use in a diagonally split hydraulic system. It
incorporates the functions of the standard dual master cylinder plus it has a fluid level switch and
integral proportioners.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 8171
Brake Master Cylinder: Testing and Inspection
Brake System Diagnosis
These checks will not determine all master cylinder malfunctions. Use the Brake System Diagnosis
chart to help isolate the problem if it is not found by using these tests.
1. Check for a cracked master cylinder casting or brake fluid around the master cylinder. Leaks are
indicated even if there is only a drop of fluid. A
damp condition is not abnormal.
2. Check for a binding pedal linkage. If satisfactory, disassemble the master cylinder and check for
swollen or elongated primary piston seal(s). If
swollen seals are found, substandard or contaminated brake fluid should be suspected. If
contaminated, all components should be disassembled and cleaned; all rubber components should
be replaced and all pipes flushed.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 8172
CAUTION: Use only Delco Supreme II Brake Fluid GM P/N 1052535, or equivalent DOT-3 brake
fluid. Do not use power steering or transmission fluid in the brake system. Do not re-use brake fluid
accumulated during brake system bleeding. Always store brake fluid in a closed container. Re-seal
brake fluid containers immediately after use. Do not use brake fluid left in an open or improperly
sealed container because it absorbs moisture or can become contaminated.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Fluid Reservoir Filling
Brake Master Cylinder: Service and Repair Brake Fluid Reservoir Filling
The master cylinder reservoir must be kept properly filled to insure adequate reserve and to
prevent air and moisture from entering the hydraulic system. However, because of expansion due
to heat absorbed from the brakes and the engine, the reservoir must not be overfilled. Do not add
fluid if brake hydraulic system is not leaking. The master cylinder reservoir is part of the master
cylinder assembly, which is located under the hood on the drivers side of the vehicle. Clean
Thoroughly clean the master cylinder reservoir cover before removal to avoid getting dirt into
reservoir. Remove the cover and diaphragm and add fluid as required to bring level to 20-26 mm
(0.78-1.0 inches) below filler neck inside reservoir. Use Delco Supreme No. II Hydraulic Brake Fluid
(GM P/N 1052535) or equivalent DOT-3 motor vehicle brake fluid.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Fluid Reservoir Filling > Page 8175
Brake Master Cylinder: Service and Repair Brake Fluid Reservoir Replacement
DISASSEMBLE
1. Remove master cylinder. 2. Clamp flange of master cylinder body in a vise.
NOTE: Do not clamp on master cylinder body. Doing so may damage the master cylinder.
3. Spring pins by using a suitable 1/8 inch punch to drive them out. Use care not to damage
reservoir or cylinder body when driving out spring pins. 4. Master cylinder reservoir by pulling
straight up away from master cylinder body. 5. Reservoir to body "O" rings from grooves it master
cylinder reservoir and dispose of "O" rings. Clean Reservoir with clean denatured alcohol. Dry
with unlubricated compressed air. Inspect Master cylinder reservoir for cracks or deformation and
replace reservoir if damage is found.
ASSEMBLE
1. Lubricate new reservoir to body "O" rings, and reservoir flanges with clean brake fluid. 2.
Reservoir to body "O" rings into grooves in master cylinder reservoir. Be sure "O" rings are properly
seated. 3. Master cylinder reservoir to master cylinder body by pressing straight down by hand into
master cylinder body. 4. Spring pins by driving in with a 1/8 inch punch using care not to damage
reservoir or master cylinder body. 5. Install master cylinder.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Fluid Reservoir Filling > Page 8176
Brake Master Cylinder: Service and Repair Master Cylinder Overhaul
NOTE: Master cylinder reservoir cover and reservoir diaphragm can be inspected and/or serviced
without removing the master cylinder from the vehicle.
1. Remove master cylinder completely from the vehicle. 2. Remove master cylinder reservoir cover
and master cylinder reservoir diaphragm. Wipe reservoir cover clean before removing. Empty fluid
from
reservoir (only if master cylinder is to be completely removed and overhauled). Inspect Master
cylinder reservoir cover and diaphragm for cuts, cracks, nicks and deformation. Replace damaged
parts.
3. Fluid level switch. See: Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch/Service and Repair
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Fluid Reservoir Filling > Page 8177
Compact Master Cylinder
4. Piston retainer while depressing primary piston. Take care not to damage the primary piston,
master cylinder bore, or piston retainer groove. 5. Primary piston, secondary piston, secondary
piston spring and spring retainer. To remove parts, apply low pressure unlubricated compressed air
into upper outlet port at blind end of bore with all other outlet ports plugged.
6. Secondary seal, primary seal and spring retainer from secondary piston. Clean All parts in clean,
denatured alcohol. Dry with unlubricated
compressed air. No abrasive should be used in bore. Inspect Master cylinder bore for scoring or
corrosion. If noted, replace master cylinder.
ASSEMBLE
1. Lubricate rubber parts with clean brake fluid to ease assembly. 2. Lubricated secondary seal,
primary seal and spring retainer onto secondary piston. 3. Secondary piston spring and secondary
piston assembly into cylinder bore. To ease reassembly, lubricate with clean brake fluid. 4.
Lubricated primary piston into cylinder bore. 5. Piston retainer while depressing primary piston. 6.
Fluid level switch. 7. Master cylinder reservoir diaphragm into reservoir cover and install on master
cylinder reservoir. 8. Master cylinder.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Fluid Reservoir Filling > Page 8178
Brake Master Cylinder: Service and Repair Master Cylinder Replacement
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Electrical connector to fluid level switch. 2. Brake pipe tube nuts from master cylinder assembly.
Plug open brake pipes to prevent brake fluid loss and contamination.
3. Master cylinder mounting nuts. 4. Master cylinder from booster.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Master cylinder to power booster assembly. Tighten Master cylinder assembly mounting nuts to
27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.). 2. Brake pipes tube nuts to master cylinder assembly. Tighten Brake pipe tube
nuts to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.). 3. Electrical connector to fluid level switch. 4. Fill master cylinder to
proper level with clean brake fluid. 5. Bleed hydraulic system. See: Service and Repair
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Fluid Reservoir Filling > Page 8179
Brake Master Cylinder: Service and Repair
Brake Fluid Reservoir Filling
The master cylinder reservoir must be kept properly filled to insure adequate reserve and to
prevent air and moisture from entering the hydraulic system. However, because of expansion due
to heat absorbed from the brakes and the engine, the reservoir must not be overfilled. Do not add
fluid if brake hydraulic system is not leaking. The master cylinder reservoir is part of the master
cylinder assembly, which is located under the hood on the drivers side of the vehicle. Clean
Thoroughly clean the master cylinder reservoir cover before removal to avoid getting dirt into
reservoir. Remove the cover and diaphragm and add fluid as required to bring level to 20-26 mm
(0.78-1.0 inches) below filler neck inside reservoir. Use Delco Supreme No. II Hydraulic Brake Fluid
(GM P/N 1052535) or equivalent DOT-3 motor vehicle brake fluid.
Brake Fluid Reservoir Replacement
DISASSEMBLE
1. Remove master cylinder. 2. Clamp flange of master cylinder body in a vise.
NOTE: Do not clamp on master cylinder body. Doing so may damage the master cylinder.
3. Spring pins by using a suitable 1/8 inch punch to drive them out. Use care not to damage
reservoir or cylinder body when driving out spring pins. 4. Master cylinder reservoir by pulling
straight up away from master cylinder body. 5. Reservoir to body "O" rings from grooves it master
cylinder reservoir and dispose of "O" rings. Clean Reservoir with clean denatured alcohol. Dry
with unlubricated compressed air. Inspect Master cylinder reservoir for cracks or deformation and
replace reservoir if damage is found.
ASSEMBLE
1. Lubricate new reservoir to body "O" rings, and reservoir flanges with clean brake fluid. 2.
Reservoir to body "O" rings into grooves in master cylinder reservoir. Be sure "O" rings are properly
seated. 3. Master cylinder reservoir to master cylinder body by pressing straight down by hand into
master cylinder body. 4. Spring pins by driving in with a 1/8 inch punch using care not to damage
reservoir or master cylinder body. 5. Install master cylinder.
Master Cylinder Overhaul
NOTE: Master cylinder reservoir cover and reservoir diaphragm can be inspected and/or serviced
without removing the master cylinder from the vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Fluid Reservoir Filling > Page 8180
1. Remove master cylinder completely from the vehicle. 2. Remove master cylinder reservoir cover
and master cylinder reservoir diaphragm. Wipe reservoir cover clean before removing. Empty fluid
from
reservoir (only if master cylinder is to be completely removed and overhauled). Inspect Master
cylinder reservoir cover and diaphragm for cuts, cracks, nicks and deformation. Replace damaged
parts.
3. Fluid level switch. See: Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch/Service and Repair
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Fluid Reservoir Filling > Page 8181
Compact Master Cylinder
4. Piston retainer while depressing primary piston. Take care not to damage the primary piston,
master cylinder bore, or piston retainer groove. 5. Primary piston, secondary piston, secondary
piston spring and spring retainer. To remove parts, apply low pressure unlubricated compressed air
into upper outlet port at blind end of bore with all other outlet ports plugged.
6. Secondary seal, primary seal and spring retainer from secondary piston. Clean All parts in clean,
denatured alcohol. Dry with unlubricated
compressed air. No abrasive should be used in bore. Inspect Master cylinder bore for scoring or
corrosion. If noted, replace master cylinder.
ASSEMBLE
1. Lubricate rubber parts with clean brake fluid to ease assembly. 2. Lubricated secondary seal,
primary seal and spring retainer onto secondary piston. 3. Secondary piston spring and secondary
piston assembly into cylinder bore. To ease reassembly, lubricate with clean brake fluid. 4.
Lubricated primary piston into cylinder bore. 5. Piston retainer while depressing primary piston. 6.
Fluid level switch. 7. Master cylinder reservoir diaphragm into reservoir cover and install on master
cylinder reservoir. 8. Master cylinder.
Master Cylinder Replacement
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Electrical connector to fluid level switch.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Fluid Reservoir Filling > Page 8182
2. Brake pipe tube nuts from master cylinder assembly. Plug open brake pipes to prevent brake
fluid loss and contamination.
3. Master cylinder mounting nuts. 4. Master cylinder from booster.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Master cylinder to power booster assembly. Tighten Master cylinder assembly mounting nuts to
27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.). 2. Brake pipes tube nuts to master cylinder assembly. Tighten Brake pipe tube
nuts to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.). 3. Electrical connector to fluid level switch. 4. Fill master cylinder to
proper level with clean brake fluid. 5. Bleed hydraulic system. See: Service and Repair
Overhaul (with ABS)
NOTE: Master cylinder reservoir cover and reservoir diaphragm can be inspected and/or serviced
without removing the master cylinder from the vehicle.
1. Remove master cylinder completely from the vehicle. 2. Remove master cylinder reservoir cover
and master cylinder reservoir diaphragm. Wipe reservoir cover clean before removing. Empty fluid
from
reservoir (only if master cylinder is to be completely removed and overhauled). Inspect Master
cylinder reservoir cover and diaphragm for cuts, cracks, nicks and deformation. Replace damaged
parts.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Fluid Reservoir Filling > Page 8183
3. Fluid level switch. See: Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch/Service and Repair
Compact Master Cylinder
4. Piston retainer while depressing primary piston. Take care not to damage the primary piston,
master cylinder bore, or piston retainer groove.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Fluid Reservoir Filling > Page 8184
5. Primary piston, secondary piston, secondary piston spring and spring retainer. To remove parts,
apply low pressure unlubricated compressed air
into upper outlet port at blind end of bore with all other outlet ports plugged.
6. Secondary seal, primary seal and spring retainer from secondary piston. Clean All parts in clean,
denatured alcohol. Dry with unlubricated
compressed air. No abrasive should be used in bore. Inspect Master cylinder bore for scoring or
corrosion. If noted, replace master cylinder.
ASSEMBLE
1. Lubricate rubber parts with clean brake fluid to ease assembly. 2. Lubricated secondary seal,
primary seal and spring retainer onto secondary piston. 3. Secondary piston spring and secondary
piston assembly into cylinder bore. To ease reassembly, lubricate with clean brake fluid. 4.
Lubricated primary piston into cylinder bore. 5. Piston retainer while depressing primary piston. 6.
Fluid level switch. 7. Master cylinder reservoir diaphragm into reservoir cover and install on master
cylinder reservoir. 8. Master cylinder.
Replacement (with ABS)
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Electrical connector to fluid level switch. 2. Brake pipe tube nuts from master cylinder assembly.
Plug open brake pipes to prevent brake fluid loss and contamination.
3. Master cylinder mounting nuts. 4. Master cylinder from booster.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Master cylinder to power booster assembly. Tighten Master cylinder assembly mounting nuts to
27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.). 2. Brake pipes tube nuts to master cylinder assembly. Tighten Brake pipe tube
nuts to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.). 3. Electrical connector to fluid level switch. 4. Fill master cylinder to
proper level with clean brake fluid. 5. Bleed hydraulic system. See: Service and Repair
Reservoir Cap Cleaning
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Fluid Reservoir Filling > Page 8185
Compact Master Cylinder
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Thoroughly clean the master cylinder reservoir cap before removal to avoid dirt entering the
reservoir. 2. Reservoir cap. 3. Rubber diaphragm from cap. Clean any brake fluid that exits
between cap and rubber diaphragm with a dry lint free cloth. Inspect brake fluid for
proper level. Remove fluid if necessary.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Diaphragm into cap. 2. Cap to reservoir.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Wheel Cylinder Inspection Guidelines
Wheel Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Wheel Cylinder Inspection Guidelines
Bulletin No.: 03-05-24-001A
Date: March 21, 2005
INFORMATION
Subject: Service Information Regarding Rear Brake Drum Wheel Cylinder Inspections
Models: 2005 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2005 and Prior Saturn Vehicles
with Rear Drum Brakes
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised add model years and include all GM vehicles. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 03-05-24-001 (Section 03 - Suspension).
This bulletin provides information on proper inspection of rear drum brake wheel cylinders.
Important:
It is not recommended that dust boots be removed during inspection processes as dirt and debris
could contaminate the wheel cylinder bore causing premature wear of the wheel cylinder. In
addition, most bores should look damp and some lubricant may drip out from under the boot as a
result of lubricant being present.
All rear drum brake wheel cylinders are assembled with a lubricant to aid in assembly, provide an
anti-corrosion coating to the cylinder bore, and lubricate internal rubber components. As a result of
this lubrication process, it is not uncommon for some amount of lubricant to accumulate at the ends
of the cylinder under the dust boot.
Over time, the lubricant may work its way to the outside of the boot and cause an area of the boot
to look damp. Evidence of a damp area on the boot does not indicate a leak in the cylinder.
However, if there is excessive wetness (i.e. drips) coming from the boot area of the wheel cylinder,
it could indicate a brake hydraulic fluid leak requiring wheel cylinder replacement. (Refer to the
Wheel Cylinder Replacement procedures in the appropriate Service Manual.)
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8190
Wheel Cylinder: Specifications
Bore Diameter 0.87 in
Bleeder Screw 62 in.lb
Inlet Tube Nut 17 ft.lb
Wheel Cylinder to Backing Plate 15 ft.lb
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Replacement
Wheel Cylinder: Service and Repair Replacement
NOTE: Raise vehicle and suitably support. Clean Dirt and foreign material around wheel cylinder
assembly inlet and pilot.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Tire and Wheel Assembly. 2. Inlet tube nut and line. Plug opening in line to prevent fluid loss and
contamination.
Leading Trailing Drum Brake Assembly
3. Brake drum and Components. Do not let backing plate hang from parking brake cable. Damage
may occur. 4. Wheel cylinder bolts. 5. Wheel cylinder.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Wheel cylinder bolts. Tighten Wheel cylinder bolts to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Replacement > Page 8193
2. Brake drum and Components. 3. Inlet tube line and nut. 4. Tire and Wheel Assembly. Tighten
Inlet tube nut to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.). 5. Bleed wheel cylinder. See: Service and Repair 6. Bleed
brake system. See: Service and Repair
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Replacement > Page 8194
Wheel Cylinder: Service and Repair Overhaul
NOTE: Remove wheel cylinder from vehicle.
DISASSEMBLE
1. Boots. 2. Pistons and seals. 3. Spring assembly. 4. Bleeder valve. Inspect Cylinder bore and
pistons for scoring, nicks, corrosion and wear. Use crocus cloth to polish out light corrosion.
Replace
wheel cylinder assembly if bore will not clean up with crocus cloth. Clean All parts in clean
denatured alcohol. Dry parts with unlubricated compressed air. Lubricate new seals with clean
brake fluid.
ASSEMBLE
1. Bleeder valve. Tighten Bleeder valve to 7 Nm (62 inch lbs.). 2. Spring assembly. 3. Seals,
pistons and boots. 4. Install wheel cylinder to vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Cable > Component
Information > Specifications
Parking Brake Cable: Specifications
Parking Brake Cable Clip to Underbody Bolt
...................................................................................................................................... 10 N.m (89
inch lbs.) Parking Brake Cable Guide Loop Bolt
................................................................................................................................................. 10 N.m
(89 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Cable > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Front
Parking Brake Cable: Service and Repair Front
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Left sound insulator. 2. Left carpet retainer and position carpet and sound deadener aside. 3.
PCM electrical connections. 4. PCM retaining bracket door. 5. PCM. 6. PCM bracket. 7. Partially
raise vehicle. 8. Parking brake from equalizer.
9. Front cable at connector clip and attach string.
10. Front cable at connector clip. 11. Cable from underbody. 12. Cable from vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Cable > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Front > Page 8201
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Cable to vehicle. 2. Front cable at connector clip. 3. Attach string to new cable and install at
connector clip. 4. Parking brake to equalizer. 5. Lower vehicle. 6. PCM bracket. 7. PCM. 8. PCM
retaining bracket door. 9. PCM electrical connections.
10. Position left carpet and sound deadener. 11. Carpet retainer. 12. Left sound insulator.
NOTE: Parking brake adjustment is not necessary. This is a self adjusting system and damage
may result from attempting to adjust or modify this system in any way. It may be necessary to
adjust rear brakes to obtain the proper tension in the system.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Cable > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Front > Page 8202
Parking Brake Cable: Service and Repair Rear
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle and suitably support. 2. Loosen cables at equalizer.
3. Cables from front brackets.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Cable > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Front > Page 8203
4. Cables from equalizer using J 37043. 5. Tire and wheel assemblies. 6. Brake Drums. 7. Right
brake actuator spring using J 38400. 8. Retractor spring using J 38400. 9. Brake Components,
(except wheel cylinder).
10. Cable from backing plate. 11. Cable from parking brake lever.
12. Cable from rear bracket and cable guide loop.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Cable to rear bracket and cable guide loop.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Cable > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Front > Page 8204
2. Cable to parking brake lever. 3. Cable to backing plate. 4. Brake Components. 5. Retractor span
using J 38400. 6. Right brake actuator spring using J 38400. 7. Brake Drums. 8. Tire and wheel
assemblies. 9. Cables to equalizer using J 37043.
10. Cables to front brackets. 11. Cables to front brackets. 12. Lower vehicle.
NOTE: Parking brake adjustment is not necessary. This is a self adjusting system and damage
may result from attempting to adjust or modify this system in any way. It may be necessary to
adjust rear brakes to obtain the proper tension in the system.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Lever > Component
Information > Specifications
Parking Brake Lever: Specifications
Parking brake lever mounting nuts
..........................................................................................................................................................
25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Lever > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 8208
Parking Brake Lever: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Left sound insulator. 2. Left carpet retainer and position carpet and sound deadener aside. 3.
PCM electrical connections. 4. PCM retaining bracket door. 5. PCM by sliding out.
6. PCM bracket.
Parking Brake Lever Assembly
7. Parking brake lever assembly. 8. Electrical connection from lever assembly.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Electrical connection to lever assembly. 2. Parking brake lever assembly. Tighten Parking brake
lever nuts to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Lever > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 8209
3. PCM bracket. 4. PCM by sliding in. 5. PCM retaining bracket door. 6. PCM electrical
connections. 7. Position left carpet and sound deadener. 8. Carpet retainer. 9. Left sound insulator.
NOTE: Parking brake adjustment is not necessary. This is a self adjusting system and damage
may result from attempting to adjust or modify this system in any way. It may be necessary to
adjust rear brakes to obtain the proper tension in the system.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Vacuum Brake Booster: > 83-50-23 > Oct > 98 > Brakes Squeak/Squawk Type Noise When Pedal Depressed
Vacuum Brake Booster: Customer Interest Brakes - Squeak/Squawk Type Noise When Pedal
Depressed
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 83-50-23
Date: October, 1998
Subject: Squeak/Squawk Type Noise when Brake Pedal Depressed (Replace Vacuum Brake
Booster)
Models: 1997-98 Chevrolet Malibu 1997-98 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999 Oldsmobile Alero 1999
Pontiac Grand Am Built Prior to the VIN Breakpoint:
Condition
Some customers may comment about a squeak or squawk type noise coming from under the dash
area when the brakes are applied.
Cause
This condition may be the result of the composition/formulation of the material utilized in the
manufacturing of the rear seal of the vacuum brake booster.
Correction
Replace existing vacuum brake booster with a new assembly selected from those listed below by
vehicle make and model. Follow service procedure in the applicable Service Manual.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
H1220 Booster Assembly, Vacuum 1.2 hrs
Power Brake - Replace
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Vacuum Brake Booster: > 83-50-23 > Oct >
98 > Brakes - Squeak/Squawk Type Noise When Pedal Depressed
Vacuum Brake Booster: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Squeak/Squawk Type Noise When
Pedal Depressed
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 83-50-23
Date: October, 1998
Subject: Squeak/Squawk Type Noise when Brake Pedal Depressed (Replace Vacuum Brake
Booster)
Models: 1997-98 Chevrolet Malibu 1997-98 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999 Oldsmobile Alero 1999
Pontiac Grand Am Built Prior to the VIN Breakpoint:
Condition
Some customers may comment about a squeak or squawk type noise coming from under the dash
area when the brakes are applied.
Cause
This condition may be the result of the composition/formulation of the material utilized in the
manufacturing of the rear seal of the vacuum brake booster.
Correction
Replace existing vacuum brake booster with a new assembly selected from those listed below by
vehicle make and model. Follow service procedure in the applicable Service Manual.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
H1220 Booster Assembly, Vacuum 1.2 hrs
Power Brake - Replace
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8224
Vacuum Brake Booster: Specifications
Fastener Tightening Specifications Vacuum Booster Retaining Nuts
.............................................................................................................................................................
27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8225
Vacuum Booster Hose - 3.1L
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Service Precautions > Technician Safety Information
Vacuum Brake Booster: Technician Safety Information
WARNING: When replacing the power brake booster, make sure that the cruise control cable is not
routed between the booster and the cowl. If the cable is damaged or pinched, it must be replaced.
Failure to do this could result in personal injury.
CAUTION: Replace all components included in repair kits used to service this booster. Lubricate
rubber parts with silicone grease (provided in kits) to ease assembly. Do not use lubricated
compressed air on brake parts as damage to rubber parts may result. If any hydraulic component is
removed or disconnected, it is necessary to bleed the entire brake system. The torque values
specified are for dry, unlubricated fasteners. Perform service operations on a clean bench free from
all mineral oil materials. Inspect locking flanges on brake booster and mounting plate. Replace the
brake booster and mounting plate if the locking flanges are bent or damaged.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Service Precautions > Technician Safety Information > Page 8228
Vacuum Brake Booster: Vehicle Damage Warnings
CAUTION: Internal components of this brake booster are not serviceable. The housing must not be
unstaked and separated. Separating the housing will cause permanent deformation, preventing the
brake booster from holding proper volume.
NOTE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. General Motors will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. General Motors will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and the joint clamping
force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening
sequence and specifications.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Service Precautions > Page 8229
Vacuum Brake Booster: Description and Operation
Brake Pedal And Booster Mounting
This booster is a tandem vacuum suspended unit. In a normal operating mode, with the service
brakes in the released position, the tandem vacuum suspended booster operates with vacuum on
both sides of its diaphragms. When the brakes are applied, air at atmospheric pressure is admitted
to one side of each diaphragm to provide the power assist. When the service brake is released, the
atmospheric air is shut off from one side of each diaphragm. The air is then drawn from the booster
through the vacuum check valve to the vacuum source.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Replacement
Vacuum Brake Booster: Service and Repair Replacement
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove or disconnect master cylinder from the vehicle in order to
remove the vacuum booster. However, if both the vacuum booster and master cylinder are to be
removed, remove the master cylinder first.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Air bag. Refer to Engine Controls. 2. Move Underhood Bussed Electrical Center (U/H BEC)
forward. 3. Bussed Electrical Center bracket. 4. Brake pipes from master cylinder. 5. Master
cylinder attaching nuts. 6. Master cylinder from booster. Be careful not to lose or dislodge the
insulator between the booster and the front of dash. 7. Vacuum hose from vacuum check valve.
Brake Pedal And Booster Mounting
8. Booster attaching nuts. 9. Left sound insulator.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Replacement > Page 8232
Exterior Components
10. Booster pushrod from brake pedal. Tilt entire vacuum booster slightly to work booster pushrod
off pedal clevis pin without putting undue side
pressure on the pushrod.
11. Booster from vehicle.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Booster to vehicle. 2. Booster pushrod to brake pedal. Tilt entire vacuum booster slightly to work
booster pushrod onto pedal clevis pin without putting undue side
pressure on the pushrod. Use left hand to align pushrod with pedal and push together.
3. Left sound insulator. 4. Booster attaching nuts. Tighten Booster to brake pedal attaching nuts to
27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.). 5. Vacuum hose to vacuum check valve. 6. Master cylinder to booster. 7.
Master cylinder attaching nuts. Tighten Master cylinder to booster attaching nuts to 27 Nm (20 ft.
lbs.). 8. Brake pipes to master cylinder. Tighten Brake pipes to master cylinder to 23 Nm (17 ft.
lbs.). 9. Bussed Electrical Center bracket.
10. Move Bussed Electrical Center forward. 11. Air bag.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Replacement > Page 8233
Vacuum Brake Booster: Service and Repair Exterior Components Replacement
NOTE: Vacuum check valve and grommet can be inspected and/or serviced without removing the
booster from the vehicle.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
Exterior Components
1. Vacuum check valve and grommet. 2. Boot and air filter. Inspect Boot, front housing seal, and
grommet for cuts, nicks and excessive wear. Replace part(s) if any of the above conditions
are found. Clean Above parts in clean denatured alcohol. Dry with unlubricated compressed air.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
NOTE: Lubricate inside and outside diameters of grommet and front housing seal with a thin layer
of silicone grease.
1. Air filter and boot. 2. Grommet and vacuum check valve.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > ABS
Main Relay > Component Information > Description and Operation
ABS Main Relay: Description and Operation
The Electronic Brake Control Relay is a normally-open contact type, and has special contact
material to handle the high currents required for ABS VI operation. The relay allows the battery
voltage and current to be supplied to the solenoids and the EBCM, which supplies power to the
motors.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > ABS
Main Relay > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 8238
ABS Main Relay: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Underhood Bussed Electrical Center cover. 2. Electronic Brake Control Relay.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Electronic Brake Control Relay. 2. Underhood Bussed Electrical Center cover. 3. Perform
Diagnostic System Check.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake
Fluid Solenoid Valve Relay > Component Information > Locations
LF Wheel
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake
Fluid Solenoid Valve Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Harness Connector
RF ABS Solenoid
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake
Fluid Solenoid Valve Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Harness Connector > Page 8244
LF ABS Solenoid
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control >
Electronic Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Electronic
Brake Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286)
Electronic Brake Control Module: Customer Interest Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246
& C1286)
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-26
Date: August, 1997
Subject: ABS Light On - DTC's 46 and 86 Set (Perform Diagnostic Procedure, Replace Center ABS
Motor Pinion)
Models: 1991-97 Buick Skylark 1992-97 Buick Regal 1994-97 Buick Century 1992-96 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica, Lumina APV 1992-97 Chevrolet Cavalier, Lumina, 1993-97 Chevrolet Camaro
1995-97 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1997
Chevrolet Malibu, Venture
1993-97 Geo Prizm 1995-97 Geo Metro 1996-97 Geo Tracker 1991
Oldsmobile Calais
1992-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1992-97 Oldsmobile Achieva, Cutlass Supreme, Silhouette
1997
Oldsmobile Cutlass
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
1991-97 Pontiac Grand Am 1992-94 Pontiac Sunbird 1992-97 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1993-97 Pontiac Firebird, Trans Am 1995-97 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition
Some owners may comment that the ABS light is on with Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) 46
and 86 set (rear ABS channel will not move) as current or history. (DTC's 46 and 86 will be
displayed as C1246 and C1286 on 1997 and 1998 model year vehicles).
Cause
A condition exists where the ABS motor pack gear (pinion) will bind on the motor armature shaft
causing the motor not to move when commanded by the EBCM. This condition is aggravated by
light corrosion between the pinion and shaft. Therefore, it may occur more frequently when the
weather is hot and humid.
Important:
Other EBCM and ABS motor pack concerns can also cause this condition, but they are not as
common as the above cause.
Correction
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control >
Electronic Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Electronic
Brake Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 8253
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control >
Electronic Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Electronic
Brake Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page 8254
Follow the included procedure (Attachments 1 and 2) for diagnosis. This condition may correct
itself before the owner is able to bring the vehicle in for service. Therefore, if DTC 46 is set in
history, and is not currently setting, the included procedure will instruct you to replace the center
ABS motor pinion. The new pinion has a Teflon insert which reduces friction between the pinion
and motor armature shaft.
Pinion Replacement
If the included procedure instructs you to replace the center ABS motor pinion, use P/N 18029776.
Please note that the new pinion is a direct replacement part which requires no modifications to the
motor shaft. Follow the pinion replacement procedure included with the new pinion. Complete
motor pack replacement is not required.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
H2506 Use published labor
operation time.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control >
Electronic Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Electronic Brake Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286)
Electronic Brake Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 &
86 (C1246 & C1286)
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-26
Date: August, 1997
Subject: ABS Light On - DTC's 46 and 86 Set (Perform Diagnostic Procedure, Replace Center ABS
Motor Pinion)
Models: 1991-97 Buick Skylark 1992-97 Buick Regal 1994-97 Buick Century 1992-96 Chevrolet
Beretta, Corsica, Lumina APV 1992-97 Chevrolet Cavalier, Lumina, 1993-97 Chevrolet Camaro
1995-97 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1997
Chevrolet Malibu, Venture
1993-97 Geo Prizm 1995-97 Geo Metro 1996-97 Geo Tracker 1991
Oldsmobile Calais
1992-96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 1992-97 Oldsmobile Achieva, Cutlass Supreme, Silhouette
1997
Oldsmobile Cutlass
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
1991-97 Pontiac Grand Am 1992-94 Pontiac Sunbird 1992-97 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1993-97 Pontiac Firebird, Trans Am 1995-97 Pontiac Sunfire
Condition
Some owners may comment that the ABS light is on with Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) 46
and 86 set (rear ABS channel will not move) as current or history. (DTC's 46 and 86 will be
displayed as C1246 and C1286 on 1997 and 1998 model year vehicles).
Cause
A condition exists where the ABS motor pack gear (pinion) will bind on the motor armature shaft
causing the motor not to move when commanded by the EBCM. This condition is aggravated by
light corrosion between the pinion and shaft. Therefore, it may occur more frequently when the
weather is hot and humid.
Important:
Other EBCM and ABS motor pack concerns can also cause this condition, but they are not as
common as the above cause.
Correction
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control >
Electronic Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Electronic Brake Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page
8260
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control >
Electronic Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Electronic Brake Control Module: > 73-50-26 > Aug > 97 > Brakes - ABS Light ON, DTC 46 & 86 (C1246 & C1286) > Page
8261
Follow the included procedure (Attachments 1 and 2) for diagnosis. This condition may correct
itself before the owner is able to bring the vehicle in for service. Therefore, if DTC 46 is set in
history, and is not currently setting, the included procedure will instruct you to replace the center
ABS motor pinion. The new pinion has a Teflon insert which reduces friction between the pinion
and motor armature shaft.
Pinion Replacement
If the included procedure instructs you to replace the center ABS motor pinion, use P/N 18029776.
Please note that the new pinion is a direct replacement part which requires no modifications to the
motor shaft. Follow the pinion replacement procedure included with the new pinion. Complete
motor pack replacement is not required.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
H2506 Use published labor
operation time.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control >
Electronic Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8262
Electronic Brake Control Module: Specifications
TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS
Mounting Screw ...................................................................................................................................
............................................. 11 Nm (97 inch lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control >
Electronic Brake Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8263
Inside LF Fender
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control >
Electronic Brake Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Exploded Views
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control >
Electronic Brake Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Exploded Views > Page 8266
Electronic Brake Control Module: Connector Views
Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control >
Electronic Brake Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Exploded Views > Page 8267
Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) (Part 2 Of 3)
Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) (Part 3 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control >
Electronic Brake Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 8268
Electronic Brake Control Module: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The controlling element of ABS VI is a microprocessor based Electronic Brake Control Module, or
EBCM. Inputs to the system include four wheel speed sensors, the brake switch, the brake fluid
level switch, ignition switch, and unswitched battery voltage. Outputs include three bi-directional
motor controls, two solenoid controls and the Electronic Brake Control Relay. A serial data line is
used for service diagnostic tools (scan tool), assembly plant testing and control of indicators in the
Instrument Cluster.
OPERATION
The EBCM monitors the speed of each wheel. If any wheel begins to approach lockup, the EBCM
controls the motors and solenoids to reduce brake pressure to the wheel approaching lockup. Once
the wheel regains traction, brake pressure is increased until the wheel again begins to approach
lockup. This cycle repeats until either the vehicle comes to a stop, the brake is released, or no
wheels approach lockup. Additionally, the EBCM monitors itself, each input and each output for
proper operation. If a system malfunction is detected, the EBCM will store a DTC in nonvolatile
memory (DTCs will not disappear if the battery is disconnected).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control >
Electronic Brake Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 8269
Electronic Brake Control Module: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Left front tire and wheel assembly. 2. Inner splash shield.
3. Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) electrical connector.
4. EBCM mounting screws from bracket.
5. EBCM.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. EBCM to vehicle. 2. Hex head screws, attaching EBCM. Tighten Hex head screws to 11 Nm (97
inch lbs.). 3. EBCM electrical connector. 4. Inner splash shield. 5. Left front tire and wheel
assembly. 6. Perform Diagnostic System Check.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake
Fluid Level Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations
Rear Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake
Fluid Level Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 8274
Brake Fluid Level Switch
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake
Fluid Level Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 8275
Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Description and Operation
The master cylinder is equipped with a fluid level switch located in the side of the master cylinder
reservoir. This switch will activate the red "BRAKE" light if a low fluid condition is detected. Once
the fluid level is corrected the "BRAKE" light will go out.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake
Fluid Level Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 8276
Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Electrical connector from fluid level switch.
2. Fluid level switch using needle nose pliers to compress switch locking tabs at inboard side of
master cylinder reservoir.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Fluid level switch into master cylinder reservoir until locking tabs snap in place. 2. Electrical
connector to fluid level switch.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Braking Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Twist-Lock Style Brake Switches - Proper
Adjustment
Braking Sensor/Switch: Technical Service Bulletins Twist-Lock Style Brake Switches - Proper
Adjustment
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-83-12
Date: April, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: Proper Adjustment of New Twist-Lock Style Brake Switches
Models: 1996-98 Buick LeSabre, Park Avenue, Riviera 1996-98 Cadillac DeVille, Eldorado, Seville
1997-98 Chevrolet Malibu 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier 1996 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1996-98
Oldsmobile Aurora, Eighty Eight, LSS, Regency 1997-98 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999 Oldsmobile
Alero 1996-98 Pontiac Bonneville 1998 Pontiac Sunfire 1999 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin is being issued to advise that new style brake switches were used beginning in the
1996 model year. The two switches control the brake lights, cruise control engage/release, TCC
lock-up/release and the Brake/Transmission Inter-Lock function. The switches are adjusted by
twisting rather than ratcheting. Using the old adjustment method of pulling up on the brake pedal
can break the switch.
A mis-adjusted or damaged switch may cause customer comments such as:
^ Brake lights stay on, draining the battery
^ Cruise control inoperative
^ Higher than normal fuel consumption if TCC cannot engage
^ Brake drag
^ Cruise control takes excess pedal travel to release
The adjustment procedure in the Service Manual should be followed.
Procedure
1. Insert the stop lamp switch into the retainer until the switch bottoms out against the brake pedal,
and the switch actuator is fully depressed.
2. Turn the brake switch in the retainer clockwise until the travel stop has been reached. At this
point it will be locked.
Important:
If the switch is not fully locked into position, a clicking noise may result.
3. The brake switch plunger should extend outward 0.5 mm to 1.5 mm (0.02 in. to 0.06 in.) if
adjusted correctly.
4. If the distance the plunger extends is too great, the brake switch must be turned
counter-clockwise about 45° and set to the correct distance before locking it in place by turning it
clockwise until the travel stop is reached.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Revised Speed Sensor Resistance
Specification
Wheel Speed Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Revised Speed Sensor Resistance
Specification
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-22
Date: June, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 5E - Revised Wheel Speed Sensor Resistance Specifications
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
This bulletin is being issued to revise the wheel speed sensor resistance specifications (DTC's
C1221 - C1235) on pages 5E1-54 through 5E1-101 of the Service Manual.
Front and rear wheel speed sensor resistance range has been changed to 950 - 1250 ohms.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations > LF
LF Wheel (RF Similar)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations > LF > Page 8287
RR Wheel (LR Similar)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > LF
LF Wheel Speed Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > LF > Page 8290
LR Wheel Speed Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > LF > Page 8291
RF Wheel Speed Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > LF > Page 8292
RR Wheel Speed Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Front Wheel Speed Sensors
Wheel Speed Sensor: Description and Operation Front Wheel Speed Sensors
The front wheel speed sensor and toothed ring are contained with the integral front wheel bearing.
This allows for improved environmental protection and easier assembly. The sensor and toothed
ring are not repairable and no provision for air gap adjustment exists. If a front wheel speed sensor
fails, the entire integral bearing and speed sensor assembly must be replaced.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Front Wheel Speed Sensors > Page 8295
Wheel Speed Sensor: Description and Operation Rear Wheel Speed Sensors
The rear wheel speed sensors operate in the same manner as the front wheel speed sensors. The
wheel speed sensor and toothed ring are contained within the dust cap of the integral rear wheel
bearing. This allows for improved environmental protection and easier assembly. The sensor and
toothed ring are not repairable and no provision for air gap adjustment exists. If a rear wheel speed
sensor fails, the entire integral bearing and speed sensor assembly must be replaced.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Front Wheel Speed Sensors > Page 8296
Wheel Speed Sensor: Description and Operation Front Wheel Speed Sensor Wiring
NOTE: The front wheel speed sensor wiring is not repairable in the control arm section of the wiring
harness. This section of the wiring harness must be replaced with the appropriate wiring harness
service kit "Pigtail." do not attempt to solder, splice, or crimp this section of the wiring harnesses as
eventual failure will likely result.
The front wheel speed sensor wiring is constructed of highly flexible twisted pair wiring. This wiring
exists because the-front wheel speed sensor wiring circuits must connect to the suspension of the
vehicle, thus the wiring in this area is subjected to the same motion as a spring or shock absorber.
Consequently, any repair to the front wheel speed sensor wiring circuits in the control arm section
of the wiring harness will result in stiffening and eventual failure due to wire fatigue.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 8297
Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair
Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 8298
Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor
Tool Required:
- J 38764
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
Important: The front sensor is serviceable only as an a assembly. Do not attempt to service the
sensor harness pigtail as it is part of the sensor.
1. Raise and support vehicle on suitable hoist. 2. Tire and wheel assembly. 3. Front wheel speed
sensor electrical connector. 4. Hub and bearing assembly. 5. Wheel speed sensor from hub and
bearing assembly using a blunt screwdriver.
Important: When the wheel speed sensor is removed it must be replaced. The speed sensor is damaged
when it is removed and cannot be reused. There are two parts to the wheel speed sensor. These
parts are replaced as an assembly. They cannot be replaced individually.
- Inspect bearing for signs of water intrusion, if water intrusion is noted, the bearing must be
replaced.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Apply LOCTITE (TM) 620 to mating surfaces of the wheel speed sensor that contacts the hub
and bearing assembly. 2. Using J 38764 with an arbor type press, press wheel speed sensor onto
hub and bearing assembly. 3. Hub and bearing assembly to vehicle. 4. Front wheel speed sensor
electrical connector. 5. Wheel and tire assembly. 6. Lower vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-008 >
Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition
Technical Service Bulletin # 99-08-49-008 Date: 990701
Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-49-008
Date: July, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Chime Sounds When Key Is Removed from Ignition, Intermittent Operation of Power Door
Locks, Keyless Entry, Steering Column Lock or Memory Seats (Inspect/Replace Lock Cylinder
Actuator or Lock Cylinder Assembly)
Models: 1991-99 Chevrolet Corvette, Malibu 1997-99 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1998-99 Oldsmobile
Intrigue 1999 Oldsmobile Alero 1999 Pontiac Grand Am
This Bulletin is being revised to add additional symptoms and conditions. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 83-83-20 (Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical)
Condition Some customers may comment that the key warning chime continues to sound after the
ignition key has been removed from the ignition lock cylinder. They may also comment that the
automatic power door locks will not lock the doors when the key is removed from the ignition lock
cylinder and the warning chime is sounding.
On Corvette models, some customers may comment that there is an intermittent operation of the
passive keyless entry system, the steering column lock, or the retracting feature of the memory
power seat option when exiting the vehicle.
Cause The actuator, located in the ignition lock cylinder, may be sticking after the key is removed.
Correction Remove the ignition lock cylinder for the instrument panel using the following
procedures. Once removed from the vehicle, use the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test
Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to determine the correct repair procedure.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description Application
All Models
12450483 Actuator Listed Above
12458191 Lock Service Package All, (Except Corvette
12458190 Lock Service Package Corvette Only
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-008 >
Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 8310
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Malibu and Cutlass Models
Malibu and Cutlass Models - Lock Cylinder
Removal
Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
dis8ble the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the lock cylinder bezel.
3. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
5. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
6. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-008 >
Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 8311
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Malibu and Cutlass Models - Lock Cylinder
Installation
Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the lock cylinder bezel.
5. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
6. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Alero and Grand AM Models
Alero and Grand Am Models - Lock Cylinder
Removal
Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the shift knob/handle (Alero Only).
3. Remove the console shifter trim plate (Alero Only). See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the lock cylinder bezel.
5. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
7. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
8. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Alero and Grand Am Models - Lock Cylinder
Installation
Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, Insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the lock cylinder bezel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-008 >
Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 8312
5. Install the console shifter trim plate (Alero Only). See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Install the shift knob/handle (Alero Only).
7. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
8. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Intrigue Models
Intrigue Models - Lock Cylinder Removal Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SiR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SiR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the left side instrument panel insulator. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section
of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
3. Remove the console trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
5. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
6. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
7. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Intrigue Models - Lock Cylinder Installation Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the console trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
5. Install the left side instrument panel insulator. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of
Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
7. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Corvette Models
Corvette Models - Lock Cylinder Removal Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the console. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in
the Service Manual.
3. Remove the instrument panel accessory trim plate. See the instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the lock cylinder.
5. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-008 >
Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 8313
6. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Corvette Models - Lock Cylinder Installation Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Connect the electrical connector to the lock cylinder.
3. Install the instrument panel accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the console. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in
the Service Manual.
5. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
Actuator Type Identification
With the key installed, hold the lock cylinder as shown in Figure 2 to determine what type of
actuator is being used. FOLLOW THE APPROPRIATE TEST PROCEDURE FOR THE TYPE OF
ACTUATOR BEING USED.
Test Procedure - New and Early Design Actuator
Test Procedure
Early Design Actuator:
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-008 >
Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 8314
1. With the lock cylinder held vertically as shown in Figure 3, remove the key from the lock. When
the key is removed, the actuator should drop down in the lock cylinder approximately 4-5 mm (3/16
in). Repeat this step several times.
2. If the EARLY design actuator in the lock cylinder does NOT drop down, replace the complete
lock assembly.
3. If the EARLY design actuator in the lock cylinder DOES drop down, replace the actuator with the
new design actuator P/N 12450483.
To replace the actuator, install the key in the lock and grasp the end of the actuator with a pair of
small long nose (needle nose) pliers and pull firmly. With the key still in the lock, install the new
actuator by aligning the actuator shaft with the opening in the lock cylinder and pushing the
actuator into place. Verify the correct actuator operation by performing Step 1 again.
Important:
After installing a new actuator, correct actuator operation must be confirmed.
New Design Actuator:
1. With the lock cylinder held vertically as shown in Figure 3, remove the key from the lock. When
the key is removed, the actuator should drop down in the lock cylinder approximately 4-5 mm (3/16
in). Repeat this step several times.
2. If the NEW design actuator in the lock cylinder does NOT drop down, replace the lock cylinder
assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-01-09 > Oct
> 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
Technical Service Bulletin # 73-01-09 Date: 971001
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 73-01-09
Date: October, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tumblers for Cylinder Recoding, Revised Repair Procedures for Inoperative Ignition
Cylinders (Seized/Won't Rotate), Labor Operation/Time Allowances
Models: 1995-97 Buick Skylark, Riviera 1995-97 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997 Chevrolet Corvette,
Malibu, Venture 1995-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora, Cutlass, Silhouette
1995-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T Models 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC G, M/L Vans 1996-97
Oldsmobile Bravada
The information in this bulletin concerns new designed tumblers for recoding lock cylinders that use
double sided reversible keys, revised procedures for servicing ignition lock cylinders that are seized
or not able to rotate and revised labor time guide information and allowances.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-01-09 > Oct
> 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 8319
The existing labor operation (E7200) has been changed to include "Add" conditions for cylinders
that will not rotate.
New Tumblers
New tumblers are available from GMSPO for recoding lock cylinders that use double-sided
reversible keys. These new tumblers should be used immediately and information about the
disposition of original tumblers will be provided by GMSPO. Figure 1 shows the new tumbler
profile. The shaded area was part of the original tumbler profile, and is removed on the new
tumblers. The new part numbers for the tumblers are as follows:
Part No. 2852732 = Tumbler # 1
Part No. 2852733 = Tumbler # 2
Part No. 2852734 = Tumbler # 3
Part No. 2852735 = Tumbler # 4
Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
New Procedures For Seized/Won't Rotate Column Mounted Ign. CYL.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-01-09 > Oct
> 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 8320
A. On G, J and N Models:
DO NOT REMOVE THE STEERING COLUMN as indicated in the Service Manual procedure.
1. Remove the tilt lever, upper and lower column covers.
2. Drill hole in module housing as indicated in the illustration using a short drill bit (1/8" followed by
9/32") and 90 degree drill motor or go degree drill attachment to break or access the retaining
spring for the lock cylinder button, see Figure 2.
3. Using a pick or needle nose pliers, remove the retaining spring from the hole.
4. Using pliers, grasp and remove the retaining button for the cylinder.
5. Remove the cylinder from the housing.
6. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
7. Install the new cylinder and reinstall the steering column components.
B. On U, W, and light duty trucks, follow the Service Manual procedure for keys missing, or
cylinders won't rotate.
Procedure: Instrument Panel Mounted Switches
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-01-09 > Oct
> 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 8321
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 01-08-49-020 > Dec > 01 > Ignition Lock Cylinder/Switch - Replacement Revision
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Lock Cylinder/Switch Replacement Revision
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 01-08-49-020
Date: December, 2001
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Revised Ignition Lock Cylinder or Ignition Switch Assembly Replacement
Models: 1996-1998 Buick Skylark 1997-2002 Chevrolet Malibu 1996-1998 Oldsmobile Achieva
1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999-2002 Oldsmobile Alero 1996-2002 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin is being issued to revise the Lock Cylinder Replacement procedure and the Ignition
Switch Assembly Replacement procedure in the Steering Wheel and Column or Instrument Panel,
Gages and Console sub-section of the Service Manual. Please replace the current information in
the Service Manual with the following information.
The following information has been updated within SI2000 for 1998-2002. If you are using a paper
version of this Service Manual, please make a reference to this bulletin on the affected page.
The above mentioned Service Manuals omitted information regarding performing the Passlock
Relearn or Autolearn procedure after an ignition lock cylinder or ignition switch assembly has been
replaced. If you have replaced either of these components, refer to the following procedures:
For 1996-1998 Grand Am, Achieva, Skylark and 1997-98 Malibu and Cutlass paper Service
Manuals, refer to Changing VTD Components in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
For 1998-2000 Malibu, 1998-99 Cutlass, 1999-2000 Alero and Grand Am information in SI2000,
refer to Passlock Reprogramming Autolearn in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
For 2001-2002 Malibu, Alero and Grand Am, refer to Programming Theft Deterrent System
Components in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition
Technical Service Bulletin # 99-08-49-008 Date: 990701
Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-49-008
Date: July, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Chime Sounds When Key Is Removed from Ignition, Intermittent Operation of Power Door
Locks, Keyless Entry, Steering Column Lock or Memory Seats (Inspect/Replace Lock Cylinder
Actuator or Lock Cylinder Assembly)
Models: 1991-99 Chevrolet Corvette, Malibu 1997-99 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1998-99 Oldsmobile
Intrigue 1999 Oldsmobile Alero 1999 Pontiac Grand Am
This Bulletin is being revised to add additional symptoms and conditions. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 83-83-20 (Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical)
Condition Some customers may comment that the key warning chime continues to sound after the
ignition key has been removed from the ignition lock cylinder. They may also comment that the
automatic power door locks will not lock the doors when the key is removed from the ignition lock
cylinder and the warning chime is sounding.
On Corvette models, some customers may comment that there is an intermittent operation of the
passive keyless entry system, the steering column lock, or the retracting feature of the memory
power seat option when exiting the vehicle.
Cause The actuator, located in the ignition lock cylinder, may be sticking after the key is removed.
Correction Remove the ignition lock cylinder for the instrument panel using the following
procedures. Once removed from the vehicle, use the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test
Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to determine the correct repair procedure.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description Application
All Models
12450483 Actuator Listed Above
12458191 Lock Service Package All, (Except Corvette
12458190 Lock Service Package Corvette Only
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page
8331
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Malibu and Cutlass Models
Malibu and Cutlass Models - Lock Cylinder
Removal
Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
dis8ble the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the lock cylinder bezel.
3. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
5. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
6. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page
8332
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Malibu and Cutlass Models - Lock Cylinder
Installation
Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the lock cylinder bezel.
5. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
6. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Alero and Grand AM Models
Alero and Grand Am Models - Lock Cylinder
Removal
Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the shift knob/handle (Alero Only).
3. Remove the console shifter trim plate (Alero Only). See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the lock cylinder bezel.
5. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
7. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
8. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Alero and Grand Am Models - Lock Cylinder
Installation
Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, Insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the lock cylinder bezel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page
8333
5. Install the console shifter trim plate (Alero Only). See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Install the shift knob/handle (Alero Only).
7. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
8. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Intrigue Models
Intrigue Models - Lock Cylinder Removal Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SiR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SiR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the left side instrument panel insulator. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section
of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
3. Remove the console trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
5. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
6. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
7. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Intrigue Models - Lock Cylinder Installation Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the console trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
5. Install the left side instrument panel insulator. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of
Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
7. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Corvette Models
Corvette Models - Lock Cylinder Removal Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the console. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in
the Service Manual.
3. Remove the instrument panel accessory trim plate. See the instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the lock cylinder.
5. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page
8334
6. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Corvette Models - Lock Cylinder Installation Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Connect the electrical connector to the lock cylinder.
3. Install the instrument panel accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the console. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in
the Service Manual.
5. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
Actuator Type Identification
With the key installed, hold the lock cylinder as shown in Figure 2 to determine what type of
actuator is being used. FOLLOW THE APPROPRIATE TEST PROCEDURE FOR THE TYPE OF
ACTUATOR BEING USED.
Test Procedure - New and Early Design Actuator
Test Procedure
Early Design Actuator:
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page
8335
1. With the lock cylinder held vertically as shown in Figure 3, remove the key from the lock. When
the key is removed, the actuator should drop down in the lock cylinder approximately 4-5 mm (3/16
in). Repeat this step several times.
2. If the EARLY design actuator in the lock cylinder does NOT drop down, replace the complete
lock assembly.
3. If the EARLY design actuator in the lock cylinder DOES drop down, replace the actuator with the
new design actuator P/N 12450483.
To replace the actuator, install the key in the lock and grasp the end of the actuator with a pair of
small long nose (needle nose) pliers and pull firmly. With the key still in the lock, install the new
actuator by aligning the actuator shaft with the opening in the lock cylinder and pushing the
actuator into place. Verify the correct actuator operation by performing Step 1 again.
Important:
After installing a new actuator, correct actuator operation must be confirmed.
New Design Actuator:
1. With the lock cylinder held vertically as shown in Figure 3, remove the key from the lock. When
the key is removed, the actuator should drop down in the lock cylinder approximately 4-5 mm (3/16
in). Repeat this step several times.
2. If the NEW design actuator in the lock cylinder does NOT drop down, replace the lock cylinder
assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
Technical Service Bulletin # 73-01-09 Date: 971001
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 73-01-09
Date: October, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tumblers for Cylinder Recoding, Revised Repair Procedures for Inoperative Ignition
Cylinders (Seized/Won't Rotate), Labor Operation/Time Allowances
Models: 1995-97 Buick Skylark, Riviera 1995-97 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997 Chevrolet Corvette,
Malibu, Venture 1995-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora, Cutlass, Silhouette
1995-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T Models 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC G, M/L Vans 1996-97
Oldsmobile Bravada
The information in this bulletin concerns new designed tumblers for recoding lock cylinders that use
double sided reversible keys, revised procedures for servicing ignition lock cylinders that are seized
or not able to rotate and revised labor time guide information and allowances.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 8340
The existing labor operation (E7200) has been changed to include "Add" conditions for cylinders
that will not rotate.
New Tumblers
New tumblers are available from GMSPO for recoding lock cylinders that use double-sided
reversible keys. These new tumblers should be used immediately and information about the
disposition of original tumblers will be provided by GMSPO. Figure 1 shows the new tumbler
profile. The shaded area was part of the original tumbler profile, and is removed on the new
tumblers. The new part numbers for the tumblers are as follows:
Part No. 2852732 = Tumbler # 1
Part No. 2852733 = Tumbler # 2
Part No. 2852734 = Tumbler # 3
Part No. 2852735 = Tumbler # 4
Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
New Procedures For Seized/Won't Rotate Column Mounted Ign. CYL.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 8341
A. On G, J and N Models:
DO NOT REMOVE THE STEERING COLUMN as indicated in the Service Manual procedure.
1. Remove the tilt lever, upper and lower column covers.
2. Drill hole in module housing as indicated in the illustration using a short drill bit (1/8" followed by
9/32") and 90 degree drill motor or go degree drill attachment to break or access the retaining
spring for the lock cylinder button, see Figure 2.
3. Using a pick or needle nose pliers, remove the retaining spring from the hole.
4. Using pliers, grasp and remove the retaining button for the cylinder.
5. Remove the cylinder from the housing.
6. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
7. Install the new cylinder and reinstall the steering column components.
B. On U, W, and light duty trucks, follow the Service Manual procedure for keys missing, or
cylinders won't rotate.
Procedure: Instrument Panel Mounted Switches
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 8342
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install Procedure
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install
Procedure
File In Section: 8 Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 63-83-16A
Date: May, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 8C - New Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder Remove/Install Procedure
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
This bulletin is being revised to add an "Important" statement to Step 9 regarding the procedure if
an ignition key or key code is not available. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 63-83-16
(Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical).
This bulletin is being issued to add the remove/install procedure for the ignition switch lock cylinder
in Section 8C of the Service Manual (GMP/97-LN-1). Please insert the following information in the
instrument Panel, Gauges and Console section of the Service Manual.
IGNITION SWITCH LOCK CYLINDER (Refer to Figure 26 in the Service Manual)
The ignition key is needed to properly remove the ignition switch lock cylinder from the ignition
switch. If the ignition key or key code is unavailable, follow the instructions in the "Important"
statement after Step 9 of "Remove or Disconnect".
Procedure
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable.
2. Disable SIR system. Refer to Disabling SIR in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
3. Ignition switch trim ring.
4. Accessory trim plate. Refer to Accessory Trim Plate in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
5. Upper steering column cover. Refer to Steering Column Covers in Steering Wheel and Column On Vehicle Service in Section 3F of the Service Manual.
6. Instrument cluster trim plate. Refer to Cluster Trim Plate in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
7. Instrument cluster. Refer to Instrument Panel Cluster in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
8. Ignition switch assembly bolts.
9. Ignition switch assembly electrical connectors.
Important:
If the ignition key or key code is not available or the ignition cylinder will not rotate, use the
following procedure to drill a hole in the switch and remove the cylinder. It "Pass Lock" equipped,
there is no need to disconnect prior to cylinder removal.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install Procedure > Page 8347
a. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 1.
b. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
c. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
d. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
e. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch body and check the cylinder code, see Figure
2.
f. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
g. Install the new cylinder by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the "ON" position and
pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release button slightly as it
passes by the 9/32' hole previously drilled in the housing.
10. Ignition lock cable from ignition switch assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install Procedure > Page 8348
11. Ignition switch assembly from vehicle.
12. Insert key into ignition switch cylinder and rotate to the RUN position.
13. Press the cylinder release plunger (located at the 4 o'clock position) on the ignition switch
assembly.
14. Pull cylinder from ignition switch with key.
Install or Connect
1. Cylinder to ignition switch, verify engagement and operation with key.
2. Ignition switch assembly to vehicle.
3. Ignition lock cable to ignition switch assembly, verify engagement.
4. Ignition switch assembly electrical connectors, verify engagement.
5. Ignition switch assembly bolts.
6. Instrument cluster.
7. Instrument cluster trim plate.
8. Upper steering column cover.
9. Accessory trim plate.
10. Ignition switch trim ring.
11. Enable SIR system. Refer to Enabling SIR in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
12. Negative battery cable.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
Cylinder, Ignition Use published
E7200 Lock - R & R or labor operation
Replace time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 01-08-49-020 > Dec > 01 > Ignition Lock Cylinder/Switch - Replacement Revision
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Lock Cylinder/Switch Replacement Revision
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 01-08-49-020
Date: December, 2001
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Revised Ignition Lock Cylinder or Ignition Switch Assembly Replacement
Models: 1996-1998 Buick Skylark 1997-2002 Chevrolet Malibu 1996-1998 Oldsmobile Achieva
1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999-2002 Oldsmobile Alero 1996-2002 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin is being issued to revise the Lock Cylinder Replacement procedure and the Ignition
Switch Assembly Replacement procedure in the Steering Wheel and Column or Instrument Panel,
Gages and Console sub-section of the Service Manual. Please replace the current information in
the Service Manual with the following information.
The following information has been updated within SI2000 for 1998-2002. If you are using a paper
version of this Service Manual, please make a reference to this bulletin on the affected page.
The above mentioned Service Manuals omitted information regarding performing the Passlock
Relearn or Autolearn procedure after an ignition lock cylinder or ignition switch assembly has been
replaced. If you have replaced either of these components, refer to the following procedures:
For 1996-1998 Grand Am, Achieva, Skylark and 1997-98 Malibu and Cutlass paper Service
Manuals, refer to Changing VTD Components in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
For 1998-2000 Malibu, 1998-99 Cutlass, 1999-2000 Alero and Grand Am information in SI2000,
refer to Passlock Reprogramming Autolearn in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
For 2001-2002 Malibu, Alero and Grand Am, refer to Programming Theft Deterrent System
Components in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install Procedure
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install
Procedure
File In Section: 8 Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 63-83-16A
Date: May, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 8C - New Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder Remove/Install Procedure
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
This bulletin is being revised to add an "Important" statement to Step 9 regarding the procedure if
an ignition key or key code is not available. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 63-83-16
(Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical).
This bulletin is being issued to add the remove/install procedure for the ignition switch lock cylinder
in Section 8C of the Service Manual (GMP/97-LN-1). Please insert the following information in the
instrument Panel, Gauges and Console section of the Service Manual.
IGNITION SWITCH LOCK CYLINDER (Refer to Figure 26 in the Service Manual)
The ignition key is needed to properly remove the ignition switch lock cylinder from the ignition
switch. If the ignition key or key code is unavailable, follow the instructions in the "Important"
statement after Step 9 of "Remove or Disconnect".
Procedure
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable.
2. Disable SIR system. Refer to Disabling SIR in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
3. Ignition switch trim ring.
4. Accessory trim plate. Refer to Accessory Trim Plate in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
5. Upper steering column cover. Refer to Steering Column Covers in Steering Wheel and Column On Vehicle Service in Section 3F of the Service Manual.
6. Instrument cluster trim plate. Refer to Cluster Trim Plate in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
7. Instrument cluster. Refer to Instrument Panel Cluster in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
8. Ignition switch assembly bolts.
9. Ignition switch assembly electrical connectors.
Important:
If the ignition key or key code is not available or the ignition cylinder will not rotate, use the
following procedure to drill a hole in the switch and remove the cylinder. It "Pass Lock" equipped,
there is no need to disconnect prior to cylinder removal.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install Procedure > Page 8358
a. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 1.
b. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
c. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
d. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
e. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch body and check the cylinder code, see Figure
2.
f. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
g. Install the new cylinder by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the "ON" position and
pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release button slightly as it
passes by the 9/32' hole previously drilled in the housing.
10. Ignition lock cable from ignition switch assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install Procedure > Page 8359
11. Ignition switch assembly from vehicle.
12. Insert key into ignition switch cylinder and rotate to the RUN position.
13. Press the cylinder release plunger (located at the 4 o'clock position) on the ignition switch
assembly.
14. Pull cylinder from ignition switch with key.
Install or Connect
1. Cylinder to ignition switch, verify engagement and operation with key.
2. Ignition switch assembly to vehicle.
3. Ignition lock cable to ignition switch assembly, verify engagement.
4. Ignition switch assembly electrical connectors, verify engagement.
5. Ignition switch assembly bolts.
6. Instrument cluster.
7. Instrument cluster trim plate.
8. Upper steering column cover.
9. Accessory trim plate.
10. Ignition switch trim ring.
11. Enable SIR system. Refer to Enabling SIR in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
12. Negative battery cable.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
Cylinder, Ignition Use published
E7200 Lock - R & R or labor operation
Replace time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Neutral Safety Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8364
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8365
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8366
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8367
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8368
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8369
Neutral Safety Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8370
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8386
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8387
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8388
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8389
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8390
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8391
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8392
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8393
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8394
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Battery Cable > Positive, Battery Cable > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Battery Cable, Positive: > 83-64-16 > Jun > 98 > Battery Weak, Discharged/Slow Starting/GEN or MIL On
Positive: Customer Interest Battery - Weak, Discharged/Slow Starting/GEN or MIL On
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 83-64-16
Date: June, 1998
Subject: Weak or Discharged Battery, Slow Starting, GEN or MIL Lamp On, Various Driveability
Symptoms (Repair B+ Stud and/or Wiring on Starter)
Models: 1997-98 Buick Skylark 1997-98 Chevrolet Cavalier, Malibu 1997-98 Oldsmobile Achieva,
Cutlass 1997-98 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire with 2.2L, 2.4L, 3.1L Engine (VINs 4, T, M - RPOs
LN2, LD9, L82)
Condition
Some owners may report the battery is weak or discharged; the starting motor may turn slowly; the
generator is not charging and/or the generator Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) may be on,
possibly intermittent. Driveability symptoms may also be experienced.
Cause
If following steps 1, 2 or 3 of strategy based diagnostics did not reveal the cause, the generator
output and battery positive cable terminal at the starting motor (CKT 1 - VIN T and M; CKT 2 - VIN
4) may be loose, causing a high resistance in the battery positive circuit from the generator to the
battery.
Correction
Inspect the condition of the starting motor B+ stud, wire, ring terminals and nut. Clean each mating
surface and replace damaged parts. Tighten positive battery B+ cable to starter solenoid nut to 12
N.m (106 lb in.). Refer to the "Starting Motor Replacement" portion in the Engine Electrical Section
of the Service Manual.
Recharge and load test the battery if required. Refer to "Battery Charging" in the Engine Electrical
Section of the Service Manual.
Important:
The generator and battery are not damaged and should not require replacement.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
N6480 Wiring and/or Use published
Connector, labor operation
Starter - Repair time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Battery Cable > Positive, Battery Cable > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Battery Cable, Positive: > 83-64-16 > Jun > 98
> Battery - Weak, Discharged/Slow Starting/GEN or MIL On
Positive: All Technical Service Bulletins Battery - Weak, Discharged/Slow Starting/GEN or MIL On
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 83-64-16
Date: June, 1998
Subject: Weak or Discharged Battery, Slow Starting, GEN or MIL Lamp On, Various Driveability
Symptoms (Repair B+ Stud and/or Wiring on Starter)
Models: 1997-98 Buick Skylark 1997-98 Chevrolet Cavalier, Malibu 1997-98 Oldsmobile Achieva,
Cutlass 1997-98 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire with 2.2L, 2.4L, 3.1L Engine (VINs 4, T, M - RPOs
LN2, LD9, L82)
Condition
Some owners may report the battery is weak or discharged; the starting motor may turn slowly; the
generator is not charging and/or the generator Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) may be on,
possibly intermittent. Driveability symptoms may also be experienced.
Cause
If following steps 1, 2 or 3 of strategy based diagnostics did not reveal the cause, the generator
output and battery positive cable terminal at the starting motor (CKT 1 - VIN T and M; CKT 2 - VIN
4) may be loose, causing a high resistance in the battery positive circuit from the generator to the
battery.
Correction
Inspect the condition of the starting motor B+ stud, wire, ring terminals and nut. Clean each mating
surface and replace damaged parts. Tighten positive battery B+ cable to starter solenoid nut to 12
N.m (106 lb in.). Refer to the "Starting Motor Replacement" portion in the Engine Electrical Section
of the Service Manual.
Recharge and load test the battery if required. Refer to "Battery Charging" in the Engine Electrical
Section of the Service Manual.
Important:
The generator and battery are not damaged and should not require replacement.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
N6480 Wiring and/or Use published
Connector, labor operation
Starter - Repair time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Battery Cable > Positive, Battery Cable > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8410
Positive: Service and Repair
Battery Replacement
Battery Cable Routing
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Battery Cable > Positive, Battery Cable > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8411
Battery Cable Routing
NOTE: When installing positive battery cable to starter solenoid, the inner nut on the solenoid
battery terminal must be tightened before battery cable and other leads are installed. Failure to do
so will result in solenoid terminal and/or solenoid damage.
Whenever battery cables are replaced, always be certain to use a replacement cable that is the
same type and length. Some positive cables have additional feed wires attached to them and some
negative cables have additional ground leads attached.
Always be certain when replacing a battery cable to route it the same as the original cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - Released for CS Generator Diagnosis
Alternator: Technical Service Bulletins Tools - Released for CS Generator Diagnosis
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 83-64-09
Date: March, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tool J 41450-B, Released for CS Generator Diagnosis
Models: 1988-98 Passenger Cars and Light Trucks with CS-Series Generators
A new CS-Series Generator Tester, J 41450-B, has been sent to all dealers as part of the Essential
Tool Package. This tool will work on all CS-Series generators for past model years. The tool is
shown in Figure 1.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - Released for CS Generator Diagnosis > Page 8417
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - Released for CS Generator Diagnosis > Page 8418
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - Released for CS Generator Diagnosis > Page 8419
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - Released for CS Generator Diagnosis > Page 8420
Generator Not Operating Properly
The charts shown can be used in place of the diagnostic procedures in previous Service Manuals
when this new tool is used. This information will be included in the 1999 Service Manual.
Inspect the following before testing the generator:
^ The battery. Make sure the vehicle battery is in good condition and fully charged. Refer to Battery
Load Test.
^ The built in hydrometer in the battery. The green eye must be showing in the hydrometer.
^ The voltage across the battery terminals with all the loads OFF should be above 12 V. Refer to
Battery Load Test.
^ Make sure the battery connections are clean and tight.
^ The drive belt for damage or looseness.
^ The wiring harness at the generator. Make sure the harness connector is tight and latched. Make
sure the output terminal of the generator is connected to the vehicle battery (positive) generator
lead.
^ All the charging system related fuses and electrical connections for damage or looseness. Refer
to the starter and charging system schematics.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Specifications > Amperage
Alternator: Specifications Amperage
Model ...................................................................................................................................................
..................................................................... CS130D Rated Output ...................................................
..............................................................................................................................................................
. 105A
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Specifications > Amperage > Page 8423
Alternator: Specifications
Charging Voltage 13.0-16.0 Volts
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Alternator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8426
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8427
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8428
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Alternator: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8449
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8450
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8451
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8452
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8453
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8454
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8455
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8457
Generator
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > General
Alternator: Service and Repair General
The generator does not require periodic lubrication. The rotor shaft is mounted on bearings. Each
bearing contains a permanent grease supply. At periodic intervals, check the mounting bolts for
tightness and the drive belt for tension. The drive belt is self-adjusting within tensioner operating
limits.
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and Repair > General > Page 8460
Alternator: Service and Repair Unit Repair
The CS-130D generator is serviced as a complete assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds
When Key is Removed From Ignition
Technical Service Bulletin # 99-08-49-008 Date: 990701
Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-49-008
Date: July, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Chime Sounds When Key Is Removed from Ignition, Intermittent Operation of Power Door
Locks, Keyless Entry, Steering Column Lock or Memory Seats (Inspect/Replace Lock Cylinder
Actuator or Lock Cylinder Assembly)
Models: 1991-99 Chevrolet Corvette, Malibu 1997-99 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1998-99 Oldsmobile
Intrigue 1999 Oldsmobile Alero 1999 Pontiac Grand Am
This Bulletin is being revised to add additional symptoms and conditions. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 83-83-20 (Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical)
Condition Some customers may comment that the key warning chime continues to sound after the
ignition key has been removed from the ignition lock cylinder. They may also comment that the
automatic power door locks will not lock the doors when the key is removed from the ignition lock
cylinder and the warning chime is sounding.
On Corvette models, some customers may comment that there is an intermittent operation of the
passive keyless entry system, the steering column lock, or the retracting feature of the memory
power seat option when exiting the vehicle.
Cause The actuator, located in the ignition lock cylinder, may be sticking after the key is removed.
Correction Remove the ignition lock cylinder for the instrument panel using the following
procedures. Once removed from the vehicle, use the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test
Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to determine the correct repair procedure.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description Application
All Models
12450483 Actuator Listed Above
12458191 Lock Service Package All, (Except Corvette
12458190 Lock Service Package Corvette Only
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds
When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 8471
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Malibu and Cutlass Models
Malibu and Cutlass Models - Lock Cylinder
Removal
Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
dis8ble the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the lock cylinder bezel.
3. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
5. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
6. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds
When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 8472
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Malibu and Cutlass Models - Lock Cylinder
Installation
Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the lock cylinder bezel.
5. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
6. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Alero and Grand AM Models
Alero and Grand Am Models - Lock Cylinder
Removal
Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the shift knob/handle (Alero Only).
3. Remove the console shifter trim plate (Alero Only). See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the lock cylinder bezel.
5. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
7. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
8. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Alero and Grand Am Models - Lock Cylinder
Installation
Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, Insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the lock cylinder bezel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds
When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 8473
5. Install the console shifter trim plate (Alero Only). See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Install the shift knob/handle (Alero Only).
7. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
8. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Intrigue Models
Intrigue Models - Lock Cylinder Removal Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SiR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SiR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the left side instrument panel insulator. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section
of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
3. Remove the console trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
5. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
6. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
7. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Intrigue Models - Lock Cylinder Installation Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the console trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
5. Install the left side instrument panel insulator. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of
Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
7. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Corvette Models
Corvette Models - Lock Cylinder Removal Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the console. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in
the Service Manual.
3. Remove the instrument panel accessory trim plate. See the instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the lock cylinder.
5. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds
When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 8474
6. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Corvette Models - Lock Cylinder Installation Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Connect the electrical connector to the lock cylinder.
3. Install the instrument panel accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the console. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in
the Service Manual.
5. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
Actuator Type Identification
With the key installed, hold the lock cylinder as shown in Figure 2 to determine what type of
actuator is being used. FOLLOW THE APPROPRIATE TEST PROCEDURE FOR THE TYPE OF
ACTUATOR BEING USED.
Test Procedure - New and Early Design Actuator
Test Procedure
Early Design Actuator:
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds
When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 8475
1. With the lock cylinder held vertically as shown in Figure 3, remove the key from the lock. When
the key is removed, the actuator should drop down in the lock cylinder approximately 4-5 mm (3/16
in). Repeat this step several times.
2. If the EARLY design actuator in the lock cylinder does NOT drop down, replace the complete
lock assembly.
3. If the EARLY design actuator in the lock cylinder DOES drop down, replace the actuator with the
new design actuator P/N 12450483.
To replace the actuator, install the key in the lock and grasp the end of the actuator with a pair of
small long nose (needle nose) pliers and pull firmly. With the key still in the lock, install the new
actuator by aligning the actuator shaft with the opening in the lock cylinder and pushing the
actuator into place. Verify the correct actuator operation by performing Step 1 again.
Important:
After installing a new actuator, correct actuator operation must be confirmed.
New Design Actuator:
1. With the lock cylinder held vertically as shown in Figure 3, remove the key from the lock. When
the key is removed, the actuator should drop down in the lock cylinder approximately 4-5 mm (3/16
in). Repeat this step several times.
2. If the NEW design actuator in the lock cylinder does NOT drop down, replace the lock cylinder
assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised
Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
Technical Service Bulletin # 73-01-09 Date: 971001
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 73-01-09
Date: October, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tumblers for Cylinder Recoding, Revised Repair Procedures for Inoperative Ignition
Cylinders (Seized/Won't Rotate), Labor Operation/Time Allowances
Models: 1995-97 Buick Skylark, Riviera 1995-97 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997 Chevrolet Corvette,
Malibu, Venture 1995-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora, Cutlass, Silhouette
1995-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T Models 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC G, M/L Vans 1996-97
Oldsmobile Bravada
The information in this bulletin concerns new designed tumblers for recoding lock cylinders that use
double sided reversible keys, revised procedures for servicing ignition lock cylinders that are seized
or not able to rotate and revised labor time guide information and allowances.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised
Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 8480
The existing labor operation (E7200) has been changed to include "Add" conditions for cylinders
that will not rotate.
New Tumblers
New tumblers are available from GMSPO for recoding lock cylinders that use double-sided
reversible keys. These new tumblers should be used immediately and information about the
disposition of original tumblers will be provided by GMSPO. Figure 1 shows the new tumbler
profile. The shaded area was part of the original tumbler profile, and is removed on the new
tumblers. The new part numbers for the tumblers are as follows:
Part No. 2852732 = Tumbler # 1
Part No. 2852733 = Tumbler # 2
Part No. 2852734 = Tumbler # 3
Part No. 2852735 = Tumbler # 4
Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
New Procedures For Seized/Won't Rotate Column Mounted Ign. CYL.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised
Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 8481
A. On G, J and N Models:
DO NOT REMOVE THE STEERING COLUMN as indicated in the Service Manual procedure.
1. Remove the tilt lever, upper and lower column covers.
2. Drill hole in module housing as indicated in the illustration using a short drill bit (1/8" followed by
9/32") and 90 degree drill motor or go degree drill attachment to break or access the retaining
spring for the lock cylinder button, see Figure 2.
3. Using a pick or needle nose pliers, remove the retaining spring from the hole.
4. Using pliers, grasp and remove the retaining button for the cylinder.
5. Remove the cylinder from the housing.
6. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
7. Install the new cylinder and reinstall the steering column components.
B. On U, W, and light duty trucks, follow the Service Manual procedure for keys missing, or
cylinders won't rotate.
Procedure: Instrument Panel Mounted Switches
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised
Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 8482
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: >
01-08-49-020 > Dec > 01 > Ignition Lock Cylinder/Switch - Replacement Revision
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Lock Cylinder/Switch Replacement Revision
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 01-08-49-020
Date: December, 2001
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Revised Ignition Lock Cylinder or Ignition Switch Assembly Replacement
Models: 1996-1998 Buick Skylark 1997-2002 Chevrolet Malibu 1996-1998 Oldsmobile Achieva
1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999-2002 Oldsmobile Alero 1996-2002 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin is being issued to revise the Lock Cylinder Replacement procedure and the Ignition
Switch Assembly Replacement procedure in the Steering Wheel and Column or Instrument Panel,
Gages and Console sub-section of the Service Manual. Please replace the current information in
the Service Manual with the following information.
The following information has been updated within SI2000 for 1998-2002. If you are using a paper
version of this Service Manual, please make a reference to this bulletin on the affected page.
The above mentioned Service Manuals omitted information regarding performing the Passlock
Relearn or Autolearn procedure after an ignition lock cylinder or ignition switch assembly has been
replaced. If you have replaced either of these components, refer to the following procedures:
For 1996-1998 Grand Am, Achieva, Skylark and 1997-98 Malibu and Cutlass paper Service
Manuals, refer to Changing VTD Components in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
For 1998-2000 Malibu, 1998-99 Cutlass, 1999-2000 Alero and Grand Am information in SI2000,
refer to Passlock Reprogramming Autolearn in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
For 2001-2002 Malibu, Alero and Grand Am, refer to Programming Theft Deterrent System
Components in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: >
99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition
Technical Service Bulletin # 99-08-49-008 Date: 990701
Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-49-008
Date: July, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Chime Sounds When Key Is Removed from Ignition, Intermittent Operation of Power Door
Locks, Keyless Entry, Steering Column Lock or Memory Seats (Inspect/Replace Lock Cylinder
Actuator or Lock Cylinder Assembly)
Models: 1991-99 Chevrolet Corvette, Malibu 1997-99 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1998-99 Oldsmobile
Intrigue 1999 Oldsmobile Alero 1999 Pontiac Grand Am
This Bulletin is being revised to add additional symptoms and conditions. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 83-83-20 (Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical)
Condition Some customers may comment that the key warning chime continues to sound after the
ignition key has been removed from the ignition lock cylinder. They may also comment that the
automatic power door locks will not lock the doors when the key is removed from the ignition lock
cylinder and the warning chime is sounding.
On Corvette models, some customers may comment that there is an intermittent operation of the
passive keyless entry system, the steering column lock, or the retracting feature of the memory
power seat option when exiting the vehicle.
Cause The actuator, located in the ignition lock cylinder, may be sticking after the key is removed.
Correction Remove the ignition lock cylinder for the instrument panel using the following
procedures. Once removed from the vehicle, use the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test
Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to determine the correct repair procedure.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description Application
All Models
12450483 Actuator Listed Above
12458191 Lock Service Package All, (Except Corvette
12458190 Lock Service Package Corvette Only
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: >
99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 8492
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Malibu and Cutlass Models
Malibu and Cutlass Models - Lock Cylinder
Removal
Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
dis8ble the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the lock cylinder bezel.
3. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
5. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
6. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: >
99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 8493
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Malibu and Cutlass Models - Lock Cylinder
Installation
Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the lock cylinder bezel.
5. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
6. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Alero and Grand AM Models
Alero and Grand Am Models - Lock Cylinder
Removal
Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the shift knob/handle (Alero Only).
3. Remove the console shifter trim plate (Alero Only). See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the lock cylinder bezel.
5. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
7. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
8. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Alero and Grand Am Models - Lock Cylinder
Installation
Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, Insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the lock cylinder bezel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: >
99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 8494
5. Install the console shifter trim plate (Alero Only). See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Install the shift knob/handle (Alero Only).
7. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
8. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Intrigue Models
Intrigue Models - Lock Cylinder Removal Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SiR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SiR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the left side instrument panel insulator. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section
of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
3. Remove the console trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Remove the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
5. Remove the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
6. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
7. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Intrigue Models - Lock Cylinder Installation Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Install the radio. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in the
Service Manual.
3. Install the accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the console trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body &
Accessories in the Service Manual.
5. Install the left side instrument panel insulator. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of
Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
6. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
7. Reprogram the theft deterrent system (only if a new lock cylinder is installed).
Corvette Models
Corvette Models - Lock Cylinder Removal Use the following steps to remove the lock cylinder:
Caution:
When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you must
disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. Failure to follow the correct procedure
could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
1. Disable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
2. Remove the console. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in
the Service Manual.
3. Remove the instrument panel accessory trim plate. See the instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the lock cylinder.
5. Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn to the ON position.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: >
99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 8495
6. Depress and hold the release plunger (tab) on the side of the lock cylinder and pull the lock
cylinder from the instrument panel. See Figure 1 for location of the release plunger (tab).
See the "Actuator Type Identification" and "Test Procedure" sections later in this bulletin to
determine the correct repair procedure.
Corvette Models - Lock Cylinder Installation Use the following steps to install the lock cylinder:
1. With the key in the lock cylinder and in the ON position, insert the lock cylinder into the
instrument panel until the plunger locks in place.
2. Connect the electrical connector to the lock cylinder.
3. Install the instrument panel accessory trim plate. See the Instrument Panel & Console
sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.
4. Install the console. See the Instrument Panel & Console sub-section of Body & Accessories in
the Service Manual.
5. Enable the SIR system. See the SIR sub-section of Restraints in the Service Manual.
Actuator Type Identification
With the key installed, hold the lock cylinder as shown in Figure 2 to determine what type of
actuator is being used. FOLLOW THE APPROPRIATE TEST PROCEDURE FOR THE TYPE OF
ACTUATOR BEING USED.
Test Procedure - New and Early Design Actuator
Test Procedure
Early Design Actuator:
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: >
99-08-49-008 > Jul > 99 > Chime - Sounds When Key is Removed From Ignition > Page 8496
1. With the lock cylinder held vertically as shown in Figure 3, remove the key from the lock. When
the key is removed, the actuator should drop down in the lock cylinder approximately 4-5 mm (3/16
in). Repeat this step several times.
2. If the EARLY design actuator in the lock cylinder does NOT drop down, replace the complete
lock assembly.
3. If the EARLY design actuator in the lock cylinder DOES drop down, replace the actuator with the
new design actuator P/N 12450483.
To replace the actuator, install the key in the lock and grasp the end of the actuator with a pair of
small long nose (needle nose) pliers and pull firmly. With the key still in the lock, install the new
actuator by aligning the actuator shaft with the opening in the lock cylinder and pushing the
actuator into place. Verify the correct actuator operation by performing Step 1 again.
Important:
After installing a new actuator, correct actuator operation must be confirmed.
New Design Actuator:
1. With the lock cylinder held vertically as shown in Figure 3, remove the key from the lock. When
the key is removed, the actuator should drop down in the lock cylinder approximately 4-5 mm (3/16
in). Repeat this step several times.
2. If the NEW design actuator in the lock cylinder does NOT drop down, replace the lock cylinder
assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: >
73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
Technical Service Bulletin # 73-01-09 Date: 971001
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 73-01-09
Date: October, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tumblers for Cylinder Recoding, Revised Repair Procedures for Inoperative Ignition
Cylinders (Seized/Won't Rotate), Labor Operation/Time Allowances
Models: 1995-97 Buick Skylark, Riviera 1995-97 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997 Chevrolet Corvette,
Malibu, Venture 1995-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora, Cutlass, Silhouette
1995-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T Models 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC G, M/L Vans 1996-97
Oldsmobile Bravada
The information in this bulletin concerns new designed tumblers for recoding lock cylinders that use
double sided reversible keys, revised procedures for servicing ignition lock cylinders that are seized
or not able to rotate and revised labor time guide information and allowances.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: >
73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 8501
The existing labor operation (E7200) has been changed to include "Add" conditions for cylinders
that will not rotate.
New Tumblers
New tumblers are available from GMSPO for recoding lock cylinders that use double-sided
reversible keys. These new tumblers should be used immediately and information about the
disposition of original tumblers will be provided by GMSPO. Figure 1 shows the new tumbler
profile. The shaded area was part of the original tumbler profile, and is removed on the new
tumblers. The new part numbers for the tumblers are as follows:
Part No. 2852732 = Tumbler # 1
Part No. 2852733 = Tumbler # 2
Part No. 2852734 = Tumbler # 3
Part No. 2852735 = Tumbler # 4
Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
New Procedures For Seized/Won't Rotate Column Mounted Ign. CYL.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: >
73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 8502
A. On G, J and N Models:
DO NOT REMOVE THE STEERING COLUMN as indicated in the Service Manual procedure.
1. Remove the tilt lever, upper and lower column covers.
2. Drill hole in module housing as indicated in the illustration using a short drill bit (1/8" followed by
9/32") and 90 degree drill motor or go degree drill attachment to break or access the retaining
spring for the lock cylinder button, see Figure 2.
3. Using a pick or needle nose pliers, remove the retaining spring from the hole.
4. Using pliers, grasp and remove the retaining button for the cylinder.
5. Remove the cylinder from the housing.
6. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
7. Install the new cylinder and reinstall the steering column components.
B. On U, W, and light duty trucks, follow the Service Manual procedure for keys missing, or
cylinders won't rotate.
Procedure: Instrument Panel Mounted Switches
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: >
73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 8503
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: >
63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install Procedure
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install
Procedure
File In Section: 8 Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 63-83-16A
Date: May, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 8C - New Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder Remove/Install Procedure
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
This bulletin is being revised to add an "Important" statement to Step 9 regarding the procedure if
an ignition key or key code is not available. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 63-83-16
(Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical).
This bulletin is being issued to add the remove/install procedure for the ignition switch lock cylinder
in Section 8C of the Service Manual (GMP/97-LN-1). Please insert the following information in the
instrument Panel, Gauges and Console section of the Service Manual.
IGNITION SWITCH LOCK CYLINDER (Refer to Figure 26 in the Service Manual)
The ignition key is needed to properly remove the ignition switch lock cylinder from the ignition
switch. If the ignition key or key code is unavailable, follow the instructions in the "Important"
statement after Step 9 of "Remove or Disconnect".
Procedure
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable.
2. Disable SIR system. Refer to Disabling SIR in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
3. Ignition switch trim ring.
4. Accessory trim plate. Refer to Accessory Trim Plate in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
5. Upper steering column cover. Refer to Steering Column Covers in Steering Wheel and Column On Vehicle Service in Section 3F of the Service Manual.
6. Instrument cluster trim plate. Refer to Cluster Trim Plate in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
7. Instrument cluster. Refer to Instrument Panel Cluster in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
8. Ignition switch assembly bolts.
9. Ignition switch assembly electrical connectors.
Important:
If the ignition key or key code is not available or the ignition cylinder will not rotate, use the
following procedure to drill a hole in the switch and remove the cylinder. It "Pass Lock" equipped,
there is no need to disconnect prior to cylinder removal.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: >
63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install Procedure > Page 8508
a. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 1.
b. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
c. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
d. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
e. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch body and check the cylinder code, see Figure
2.
f. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
g. Install the new cylinder by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the "ON" position and
pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release button slightly as it
passes by the 9/32' hole previously drilled in the housing.
10. Ignition lock cable from ignition switch assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: >
63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install Procedure > Page 8509
11. Ignition switch assembly from vehicle.
12. Insert key into ignition switch cylinder and rotate to the RUN position.
13. Press the cylinder release plunger (located at the 4 o'clock position) on the ignition switch
assembly.
14. Pull cylinder from ignition switch with key.
Install or Connect
1. Cylinder to ignition switch, verify engagement and operation with key.
2. Ignition switch assembly to vehicle.
3. Ignition lock cable to ignition switch assembly, verify engagement.
4. Ignition switch assembly electrical connectors, verify engagement.
5. Ignition switch assembly bolts.
6. Instrument cluster.
7. Instrument cluster trim plate.
8. Upper steering column cover.
9. Accessory trim plate.
10. Ignition switch trim ring.
11. Enable SIR system. Refer to Enabling SIR in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
12. Negative battery cable.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
Cylinder, Ignition Use published
E7200 Lock - R & R or labor operation
Replace time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: >
01-08-49-020 > Dec > 01 > Ignition Lock Cylinder/Switch - Replacement Revision
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Lock Cylinder/Switch Replacement Revision
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 01-08-49-020
Date: December, 2001
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Revised Ignition Lock Cylinder or Ignition Switch Assembly Replacement
Models: 1996-1998 Buick Skylark 1997-2002 Chevrolet Malibu 1996-1998 Oldsmobile Achieva
1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999-2002 Oldsmobile Alero 1996-2002 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin is being issued to revise the Lock Cylinder Replacement procedure and the Ignition
Switch Assembly Replacement procedure in the Steering Wheel and Column or Instrument Panel,
Gages and Console sub-section of the Service Manual. Please replace the current information in
the Service Manual with the following information.
The following information has been updated within SI2000 for 1998-2002. If you are using a paper
version of this Service Manual, please make a reference to this bulletin on the affected page.
The above mentioned Service Manuals omitted information regarding performing the Passlock
Relearn or Autolearn procedure after an ignition lock cylinder or ignition switch assembly has been
replaced. If you have replaced either of these components, refer to the following procedures:
For 1996-1998 Grand Am, Achieva, Skylark and 1997-98 Malibu and Cutlass paper Service
Manuals, refer to Changing VTD Components in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
For 1998-2000 Malibu, 1998-99 Cutlass, 1999-2000 Alero and Grand Am information in SI2000,
refer to Passlock Reprogramming Autolearn in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
For 2001-2002 Malibu, Alero and Grand Am, refer to Programming Theft Deterrent System
Components in the Theft Deterrent subsection.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: >
63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install Procedure
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install
Procedure
File In Section: 8 Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 63-83-16A
Date: May, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 8C - New Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder Remove/Install Procedure
Models: 1997 Chevrolet Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
This bulletin is being revised to add an "Important" statement to Step 9 regarding the procedure if
an ignition key or key code is not available. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 63-83-16
(Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical).
This bulletin is being issued to add the remove/install procedure for the ignition switch lock cylinder
in Section 8C of the Service Manual (GMP/97-LN-1). Please insert the following information in the
instrument Panel, Gauges and Console section of the Service Manual.
IGNITION SWITCH LOCK CYLINDER (Refer to Figure 26 in the Service Manual)
The ignition key is needed to properly remove the ignition switch lock cylinder from the ignition
switch. If the ignition key or key code is unavailable, follow the instructions in the "Important"
statement after Step 9 of "Remove or Disconnect".
Procedure
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable.
2. Disable SIR system. Refer to Disabling SIR in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
3. Ignition switch trim ring.
4. Accessory trim plate. Refer to Accessory Trim Plate in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
5. Upper steering column cover. Refer to Steering Column Covers in Steering Wheel and Column On Vehicle Service in Section 3F of the Service Manual.
6. Instrument cluster trim plate. Refer to Cluster Trim Plate in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
7. Instrument cluster. Refer to Instrument Panel Cluster in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
8. Ignition switch assembly bolts.
9. Ignition switch assembly electrical connectors.
Important:
If the ignition key or key code is not available or the ignition cylinder will not rotate, use the
following procedure to drill a hole in the switch and remove the cylinder. It "Pass Lock" equipped,
there is no need to disconnect prior to cylinder removal.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: >
63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install Procedure > Page 8519
a. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 1.
b. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
c. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
d. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
e. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch body and check the cylinder code, see Figure
2.
f. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
g. Install the new cylinder by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the "ON" position and
pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release button slightly as it
passes by the 9/32' hole previously drilled in the housing.
10. Ignition lock cable from ignition switch assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: >
63-83-16A > May > 97 > Ignition Switch Lock - Remove/Install Procedure > Page 8520
11. Ignition switch assembly from vehicle.
12. Insert key into ignition switch cylinder and rotate to the RUN position.
13. Press the cylinder release plunger (located at the 4 o'clock position) on the ignition switch
assembly.
14. Pull cylinder from ignition switch with key.
Install or Connect
1. Cylinder to ignition switch, verify engagement and operation with key.
2. Ignition switch assembly to vehicle.
3. Ignition lock cable to ignition switch assembly, verify engagement.
4. Ignition switch assembly electrical connectors, verify engagement.
5. Ignition switch assembly bolts.
6. Instrument cluster.
7. Instrument cluster trim plate.
8. Upper steering column cover.
9. Accessory trim plate.
10. Ignition switch trim ring.
11. Enable SIR system. Refer to Enabling SIR in Section 8C of the Service Manual.
12. Negative battery cable.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
Cylinder, Ignition Use published
E7200 Lock - R & R or labor operation
Replace time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Key > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Locks - Key Code Security Rules and Information
Key: Technical Service Bulletins Locks - Key Code Security Rules and Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 10-00-89-010
Date: May 27, 2010
Subject: Key Code Security Rules and Information on GM KeyCode Look-Up Application (Canada
Only)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2009 and Prior
Saturn and Saab 2002 and Prior Isuzu
Attention:
This bulletin has been created to address potential issues and questions regarding KeyCode
security. This bulletin should be read by all parties involved in KeyCode activity, including dealer
operator, partner security coordinator, sales, service and parts departments. A copy of this bulletin
should be printed and maintained in the parts department for use as a reference.
Important U.S. dealers should refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 10-00-89-009.
Where Are Key Codes Located?
General Motors provides access to KeyCodes through three sources when a vehicle is delivered to
a dealer. Vehicle KeyCodes are located on the original vehicle invoice to the dealership. There is a
small white bar coded tag sent with most new vehicles that also has the key code printed on it.
Dealerships should make a practice of comparing the tag's keycode numbers to the keycode listed
on the invoice. Any discrepancy should be reported immediately to the GM of Canada Key Code
Inquiry Desk. Remember to remove the key tag prior to showing vehicles to potential customers.
The third source for Key codes is through the GM KeyCode Look-Up feature within the
OEConnection D2DLink application. KeyCode Look-Up currently goes back 17 previous model
years from the current model year.
When a vehicle is received by the dealership, care should be taken to safeguard the original
vehicle invoice and KeyCode tag provided with the vehicle. Potential customers should not have
access to the invoice or this KeyCode tag prior to the sale being completed. After a sale has been
completed, the KeyCode information belongs to the customer and General Motors.
Tip
Only the original invoice contains key code information, a re-printed invoice does not.
GM KeyCode Look-Up Application for GM of Canada Dealers
All dealers should review the General Motors of Canada KeyCode Look-Up Policies and
Procedures (Service Policy & Procedures Manual Section 3.1.6 "Replacement of VIN plates &
keys").
Please note that the KeyCode Access site is restricted. Only authorized users should be using this
application. Please see your Parts Manager for site authorized users. KeyCode Look-Up currently
goes back 17 years from current model year.
Important notes about security:
- Users may not access the system from multiple computers simultaneously.
- Users may only request one KeyCode at a time.
- KeyCode information will only be available on the screen for 2 minutes.
- Each user is personally responsible for maintaining and protecting their password.
- Never share your password with others.
- User Id's are suspended after 6 consecutive failed attempts.
- User Id's are disabled if not used for 90 days.
- Processes must be in place for regular dealership reviews.
- The Parts Manager (or assigned management) must have processes in place for employee
termination or life change events. Upon termination individuals access must be turned off
immediately and access should be re-evaluated upon any position changes within the dealership.
- If you think your password or ID security has been breached, contact Dealer Systems Support at
1-800-265-0573.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Key > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Locks - Key Code Security Rules and Information > Page 8525
Each user will be required to accept the following agreement each time the KeyCode application is
used.
Key Code User Agreement
- Key codes are proprietary information belonging to General Motors Corporation and to the vehicle
owner.
- Unauthorized access to, or use of, key code information is unlawful and may subject the user to
criminal and civil penalties.
- This information should be treated as strictly confidential and should not be disclosed to anyone
unless authorized.
I will ensure that the following information is obtained prior to releasing any Key Code information:
1. Government issued picture ID (Drivers License) 2. Registration or other proof of ownership.
Registration should have normal markings from the Province that issued the registration and
possibly the
receipt for payment recorded as well.
Important
- GM takes this agreement seriously. Each user must be certain of vehicle ownership before giving
out key codes.
- When the ownership of the vehicle is in doubt, dealership personnel should not provide the
information.
Key code requests should never be received via a fax or the internet and key codes should never
be provided to anyone in this manner. A face to face contact with the owner of the vehicle is the
expected manner that dealers will use to release a key code or as otherwise stipulated in this
bulletin or other materials.
- Key codes should NEVER be sent via a fax or the internet.
- Each Dealership should create a permanent file to document all KeyCode Look Up transactions.
Requests should be filed by VIN and in each folder retain copies of the following:
- Government issued picture ID (Drivers License)
- Registration or other proof of ownership.
- Copy of the paid customer receipt which has the name of the employee who cut and sold the key
to the customer.
- Do not put yourself or your Dealership in the position of needing to "explain" a KeyCode Look Up
to either GM or law enforcement officials.
- Dealership Management has the ability to review all KeyCode Look-Up transactions.
- Dealership KeyCode documentation must be retained for two years.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) for GM of Canada Dealers
How do I request a KeyCode for customer owned vehicle that is not registered?
Scrapped, salvaged or stored vehicles that do not have a current registration should still have the
ownership verified by requesting the vehicle title, current insurance policy and / or current lien
holder information from the customers financing source. If you cannot determine if the customer is
the owner of the vehicle, do not provide the key code information. In these cases, a short
description of the vehicle (scrapped, salvaged, etc.) and the dealership location should be kept on
file. Any clarifying explanation should be entered into the comments field.
How do I document a KeyCode request for a vehicle that is being repossessed?
The repossessor must document ownership of the vehicle by providing a court ordered
repossession order and lien-holder documents prior to providing key code information. Copies of
the repossessors Drivers License and a business card should be retained by the dealership for
documentation.
What do I do if the registration information is locked in the vehicle?
Every effort should be made to obtain complete information for each request. Each Dealership will
have to decide on a case by case basis if enough information is available to verify the customer's
ownership of the vehicle. Other forms of documentation include vehicle title, insurance policy, and
or current lien information from the customers financing source. Dealership Management must be
involved in any request without complete information. If you cannot determine if the customer is the
owner of the vehicle, do not provide the key code information.
Can I get a print out of the information on the screen?
It is important to note that the Key Code Look Up Search Results contain sensitive and/or
proprietary information. For this reason GM recommends against printing it. If the Search Results
must be printed, store and/or dispose of the printed copy properly to minimize the risk of improper
or illegal use.
Who in the dealership has access to the KeyCode application?
Dealership Parts Manager (or assigned management) will determine, and control, who is
authorized to access the KeyCode Look Up application. However, we anticipate that dealership
parts and service management will be the primary users of the application. The KeyCode Look Up
application automatically tracks each user activity session. Information tracked by the system
includes: User name, User ID, all other entered data and the date/time of access.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Key > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Locks - Key Code Security Rules and Information > Page 8526
What if I input the VIN incorrectly?
If an incorrect VIN is entered into the system (meaning that the system does not recognize the VIN
or that the VIN has been entered incorrectly) the system will return an error message.
If I am an authorized user for the KeyCode application, can I access the application from home?
Yes.
What if I suspect key code misuse?
Your dealership should communicate the proper procedures for requesting key codes. Any
suspicious activity either within the dealership or externally should be reported to Dealer Systems
Support at 1-800-265-0573 or GM of Canada Key Code Inquiry Desk at 1-905-644-4892.
Whose key codes can I access through the system?
At this time the following Canadian vehicle codes are available through the system: Chevrolet,
Cadillac, Buick, Pontiac, GMC, HUMMER (H2 and H3 only), Oldsmobile, Saturn, Saab and Isuzu
(up to 2002 model year) for a maximum of 17 model years.
What should I do if I enter a valid VIN and the system does not produce any key code information?
Occasionally, the KeyCode Look Up application may not produce a key code for a valid VIN. This
may be the result of new vehicle information not yet available. In addition, older vehicle information
may have been sent to an archive status. If you do not receive a key code returned for valid VIN,
you should contact GM of Canada Key Code Inquiry Desk at 1-905-644-4892.
How do I access KeyCodes if the KeyCode Look-up system is down?
If the KeyCode Look-up system is temporarily unavailable, you can contact the original selling
dealer who may have it on file or contact GM of Canada Key Code Inquiry Desk at
1-905-644-4892. If the customer is dealing with an emergency lock-out situation, you need to have
the customer contact Roadside assistance, OnStar if subscribed, or 911.
What should I do if the KeyCode from the look-up system does not work on the vehicle?
On occasion a dealer may encounter a KeyCode that will not work on the vehicle in question. In
cases where the KeyCode won't work you will need to verify with the manufacturer of the cutting
equipment that the key has been cut correctly. If the key has been cut correctly you may be able to
verify the proper KeyCode was given through the original selling dealer. When unable to verify the
KeyCode through the original selling dealer contact GM of Canada Key Code Inquiry Desk at
1-905-644-4892. If the key has been cut correctly and the code given does not work, the lock
cylinder may have been changed. In these situations following the proper SI document for recoding
a key or replacing the lock cylinder may be necessary.
How long do I have to keep KeyCode Records?
Dealership KeyCode documentation must be retained for two years.
Can I get a KeyCode changed in the Look-Up system?
Yes, KeyCodes can be changed in the Look-Up system if a lock cylinder has been changed.
Contact GM of Canada Key Code Inquiry Desk at 1-905-644-4892.
What information do I need before I can provide a driver of a company fleet vehicle Keys or
KeyCode information?
The dealership should have a copy of the individual's driver's license, proof of employment and
registration. If there is any question as to the customer's employment by the fleet company, the
dealer should attempt to contact the fleet company for verification. If there is not enough
information to determine ownership and employment, this information should not be provided.
How do I document a request from an Independent Repair facility for a KeyCode or Key?
The independent must provide a copy of their driver's license, proof of employment and signed
copy of the repair order for that repair facility. The repair order must include customer's name,
address, VIN, city, province and license plate number. Copies of this information must be included
in your dealer KeyCode file.
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Disclaimer
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Neutral Safety Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Neutral Safety Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Neutral Safety Switch > Component Information
> Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8547
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Starter Motor: > 83-64-16 > Jun > 98 > Battery - Weak, Discharged/Slow
Starting/GEN or MIL On
Starter Motor: Customer Interest Battery - Weak, Discharged/Slow Starting/GEN or MIL On
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 83-64-16
Date: June, 1998
Subject: Weak or Discharged Battery, Slow Starting, GEN or MIL Lamp On, Various Driveability
Symptoms (Repair B+ Stud and/or Wiring on Starter)
Models: 1997-98 Buick Skylark 1997-98 Chevrolet Cavalier, Malibu 1997-98 Oldsmobile Achieva,
Cutlass 1997-98 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire with 2.2L, 2.4L, 3.1L Engine (VINs 4, T, M - RPOs
LN2, LD9, L82)
Condition
Some owners may report the battery is weak or discharged; the starting motor may turn slowly; the
generator is not charging and/or the generator Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) may be on,
possibly intermittent. Driveability symptoms may also be experienced.
Cause
If following steps 1, 2 or 3 of strategy based diagnostics did not reveal the cause, the generator
output and battery positive cable terminal at the starting motor (CKT 1 - VIN T and M; CKT 2 - VIN
4) may be loose, causing a high resistance in the battery positive circuit from the generator to the
battery.
Correction
Inspect the condition of the starting motor B+ stud, wire, ring terminals and nut. Clean each mating
surface and replace damaged parts. Tighten positive battery B+ cable to starter solenoid nut to 12
N.m (106 lb in.). Refer to the "Starting Motor Replacement" portion in the Engine Electrical Section
of the Service Manual.
Recharge and load test the battery if required. Refer to "Battery Charging" in the Engine Electrical
Section of the Service Manual.
Important:
The generator and battery are not damaged and should not require replacement.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
N6480 Wiring and/or Use published
Connector, labor operation
Starter - Repair time
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Starter Motor: > 83-64-16 > Jun > 98 > Battery - Weak,
Discharged/Slow Starting/GEN or MIL On
Starter Motor: All Technical Service Bulletins Battery - Weak, Discharged/Slow Starting/GEN or
MIL On
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 83-64-16
Date: June, 1998
Subject: Weak or Discharged Battery, Slow Starting, GEN or MIL Lamp On, Various Driveability
Symptoms (Repair B+ Stud and/or Wiring on Starter)
Models: 1997-98 Buick Skylark 1997-98 Chevrolet Cavalier, Malibu 1997-98 Oldsmobile Achieva,
Cutlass 1997-98 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire with 2.2L, 2.4L, 3.1L Engine (VINs 4, T, M - RPOs
LN2, LD9, L82)
Condition
Some owners may report the battery is weak or discharged; the starting motor may turn slowly; the
generator is not charging and/or the generator Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) may be on,
possibly intermittent. Driveability symptoms may also be experienced.
Cause
If following steps 1, 2 or 3 of strategy based diagnostics did not reveal the cause, the generator
output and battery positive cable terminal at the starting motor (CKT 1 - VIN T and M; CKT 2 - VIN
4) may be loose, causing a high resistance in the battery positive circuit from the generator to the
battery.
Correction
Inspect the condition of the starting motor B+ stud, wire, ring terminals and nut. Clean each mating
surface and replace damaged parts. Tighten positive battery B+ cable to starter solenoid nut to 12
N.m (106 lb in.). Refer to the "Starting Motor Replacement" portion in the Engine Electrical Section
of the Service Manual.
Recharge and load test the battery if required. Refer to "Battery Charging" in the Engine Electrical
Section of the Service Manual.
Important:
The generator and battery are not damaged and should not require replacement.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
N6480 Wiring and/or Use published
Connector, labor operation
Starter - Repair time
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Starter Motor: Specifications
Starter cable ........................................................................................................................................
...................................................... 12 N.m (106 lb in) Lower/upper starter bolt to ..............................
........................................................................................................................................... 90 N.m (66
lb ft) Negative battery cable bolt to ......................................................................................................
............................................................... 16 N.m (12 lb ft)
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Front Of Engine
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Starter Motor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Starter Motor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 8611
Starter Motor: Description and Operation
PG260 Starter Motor Assembly (Typical)
The PG260 starter motor features small permanent magnets mounted inside the field frame and a
planetary gear reduction mechanism between the armature and drive. A permanent magnet gear
reduction motor is about half the weight and size of a field coil motor having the same cranking
performance. The drive housing encloses the shift lever, the shift lever mechanism, and the
solenoid plunger to protect them from exposure to dirt, icing conditions, and splash.
When the ignition switch is moved to the start position, battery voltage is sent to the starter
solenoid contacts. This will energize the solenoid windings and cause movement of the solenoid
plunger and shift lever which causes the drive pinion to engage the engine flywheel ring gear and
the solenoid switch contacts to close. When the solenoid switch contacts close, the starter motor is
energized and cranking takes place. As the engine starts, the pinion overrun clutch protects the
motor armature from excessive speed until the ignition switch is opened. Once the solenoid
windings are de-energized, the return spring causes the pinion to disengage. To prevent excessive
overrun. the ignition switch should he opened immediately when the engine starts.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > General Information - Starter
Starter Motor: Testing and Inspection General Information - Starter
If the battery, wiring, and switches are in satisfactory condition, and the engine is known to be
functioning properly, remove the motor from the vehicle and follow the procedures shown in No
Load Test.
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Testing and Inspection > General Information - Starter > Page 8614
Starter Motor: Testing and Inspection No-Load Test - Starter
No Load Test
NOTE: Never operate the cranking motor more than 30 seconds at a time without pausing to allow
it to cool for at least 2 minutes. Overheating, caused by excessive cranking will seriously damage
the cranking motor.
Make connection as shown. Close the switch and compare the RPM, current, and voltage readings
with values shown in Starter Usage Chart. If the starter does not meet these values replace the
starter. The following conditions indicate possible causes of starter problems:
1. Rated current draw and no-load speed indicates normal condition of the starter motor. 2. Low
free speed and high current draw indicates:
^ Too much friction - tight, dirty, or worn bushings, bent armature shaft allowing armature to drag.
^ Shorted armature.
^ Grounded armature or fields.
3. Failure to operate with high current draw indicates:
^ A direct ground in the terminal or fields.
^ "Frozen" bearings.
4. Failure to operate with low or no current draw indicates:
^ Open solenoid windings.
^ Open field circuit.
^ Open armature coils.
^ Broken brush springs, worn brushes, high insulation between the commutator bars or other
causes which would prevent good contact between the brushes and commutator.
5. Low no-load speed and low current draw indicates:
^ High internal resistance due to poor connections, defective leads, dirty commutator and causes
listed under step Number 4 above.
6. High free speed and high current draw usually indicate shorted fields.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > General Information - Starter > Page 8615
Starter Motor Noise Diagnosis
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > Page 8616
Starter Motor: Service and Repair
The PG260 starter is to be replaced as a complete unit.
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Locations
Front Of Engine
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Starter Solenoid: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8623
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8626
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Solenoid > Component Information >
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Starter Solenoid: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures
contained in this section. You should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the
meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens
in a circuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring
diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "IE" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8631
insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Always check for aftermarket accessories as the first step in diagnosing electrical problems. If the
vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the
cause of the problems.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
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Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit. 4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an
ohmmeter, LO or no resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
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Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
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Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34142-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal
Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are
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touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out in this section as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This
device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive
current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance
increases, therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so
HI that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing
voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second
or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
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Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
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If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
OBDII Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures. When
servicing OBDII circuits, the following guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in an OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should be
discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Power Distribution to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground
Distribution/Diagrams
^ Make sure that CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance)
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines.
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque.
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
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Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
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Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing
Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices,
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harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
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Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation
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When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire sizes that can be used to
replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalent metric
size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Crimping The Splice Clip
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^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
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Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Solenoid > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8652
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8: Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Auxiliary Power Outlet: > 99-08-45-005 > Nov
> 99 > Accessory Receptacle/Cigar Lighter - Inoperative
Auxiliary Power Outlet: Customer Interest Accessory Receptacle/Cigar Lighter - Inoperative
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-45-005
Date: November, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Accessory Receptacle/Cigar Lighter is Inoperative (Check Aftermarket Device Plug for
Short to Ground)
Models: 1995-2000 Passenger Cars and Trucks
Condition
Some customers may comment that the cigar lighter or the accessory receptacle is inoperative; or
that the internal fuse (within the plug on an aftermarket device), blows intermittently.
Cause
Certain aftermarket devices have a newly designed power plug with an internal mini fuse. The mini
fuse may have an external terminal (which may be used to externally check the fuse). If the mini
fuse external test terminal is not recessed into the mini fuse body, it may come in contact with the
shell of the vehicle receptacle and cause the fuse (of either the vehicle or the aftermarket device),
to blow intermittently.
Correction
Test the aftermarket device plug for short to ground. The following step may be performed at the
customer's expense. As this is not a defect in material, design or workmanship of the vehicle, it
would be the owner's responsibility.
1. Place a piece of tape over the mini fuse terminal temporarily.
2. Explain to the customer that the fuse for the device must have no exposed terminals, and that
finding one would be his responsibility.
3. Refer the customer to the manufacturer of the aftermarket device for a new plug.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Auxiliary Power Outlet: >
99-08-45-005 > Nov > 99 > Accessory Receptacle/Cigar Lighter - Inoperative
Auxiliary Power Outlet: All Technical Service Bulletins Accessory Receptacle/Cigar Lighter Inoperative
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-45-005
Date: November, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Accessory Receptacle/Cigar Lighter is Inoperative (Check Aftermarket Device Plug for
Short to Ground)
Models: 1995-2000 Passenger Cars and Trucks
Condition
Some customers may comment that the cigar lighter or the accessory receptacle is inoperative; or
that the internal fuse (within the plug on an aftermarket device), blows intermittently.
Cause
Certain aftermarket devices have a newly designed power plug with an internal mini fuse. The mini
fuse may have an external terminal (which may be used to externally check the fuse). If the mini
fuse external test terminal is not recessed into the mini fuse body, it may come in contact with the
shell of the vehicle receptacle and cause the fuse (of either the vehicle or the aftermarket device),
to blow intermittently.
Correction
Test the aftermarket device plug for short to ground. The following step may be performed at the
customer's expense. As this is not a defect in material, design or workmanship of the vehicle, it
would be the owner's responsibility.
1. Place a piece of tape over the mini fuse terminal temporarily.
2. Explain to the customer that the fuse for the device must have no exposed terminals, and that
finding one would be his responsibility.
3. Refer the customer to the manufacturer of the aftermarket device for a new plug.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8667
Top RH Side Of I/P
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8668
Auxiliary Power Outlet
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Electrical - Aftermarket Fuse Warning
Fuse: Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Aftermarket Fuse Warning
Bulletin No.: 07-08-45-002
Date: September 05, 2007
ADVANCED SERVICE INFORMATION
Subject: Service Alert: Concerns With Aftermarket Fuses in GM Vehicles
Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn) 2008 and
Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2008 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Concerns with Harbor Freight Tools "Storehouse" Branded Blade Type Fuses
General Motors has become aware of a fuse recall by Harbor Freight Tools/Storehouse for a
variety of aftermarket fuses. In two cases, these fuses have not provided protection for the wiring
system of the vehicles they were customer installed in.
Upon testing the 15 amp version, it was found that the fuse still would not "open" when shorted
directly across the battery terminals.
How to Identify These Fuses
Packed in a 120 piece set, the fuse has a translucent, hard plastic, blue body with the amperage
stamped into the top. There are no white painted numbers on the fuse to indicate amperage. There
are no identifying marks on the fuse to tell who is making it. The fuses are known to be distributed
by Harbor Freight Tools but there may be other marketers, and packaging of this style of fuse. It
would be prudent to replace these fuses if found in a customers vehicle. Likewise, if wiring
overheating is found you should check the fuse panel for the presence of this style of fuse.
All GM dealers should use genuine GM fuses on the vehicles they service. You should also
encourage the use of GM fuses to your customers to assure they are getting the required electrical
system protection. GM has no knowledge of any concerns with other aftermarket fuses. If
additional information becomes available, this bulletin will be updated.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Locations > I/P Junction Block
Left Side Of I/P
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Locations > I/P Junction Block > Page 8675
Left Side Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Application and ID > Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Fuse: Application and ID Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center (Part 1 Of 2)
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Application and ID > Underhood Bussed Electrical Center > Page 8678
Fuse: Application and ID I/P Bussed Electrical Center
LH I/P Bussed Electrical Center
LH I/P Bussed Electrical Center
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Application and ID > Underhood Bussed Electrical Center > Page 8679
RH I/P Bussed Electrical Center
RH I/P Bussed Electrical Center
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Locations > I/P Junction Block
Left Side Of I/P
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Locations > I/P Junction Block > Page 8684
Left Side Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1
Fuse Block: Diagrams C1
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1
Pinout Description
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 1 Of 5)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 8687
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 2 Of 5)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 8688
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 3 Of 5)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 8689
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 4 Of 5)
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 5 Of 5)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 8690
Fuse Block: Diagrams C2
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2
Pinout Description
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2 (Part 1 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 8691
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2 (Part 2 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 8692
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2 (Part 3 Of 4)
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2 (Part 4 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 8693
Fuse Block: Diagrams C3
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3
Pinout Description
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3 (Part 1 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 8694
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3 (Part 2 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 8695
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3 (Part 3 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 8696
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3 (Part 4 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 8697
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C4
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 8698
Fuse Block: Diagrams
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1
Pinout Description
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 1 Of 5)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 8699
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 2 Of 5)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 8700
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 3 Of 5)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 8701
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 4 Of 5)
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 5 Of 5)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 8702
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2
Pinout Description
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2 (Part 1 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 8703
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2 (Part 2 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 8704
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2 (Part 3 Of 4)
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2 (Part 4 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 8705
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3
Pinout Description
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3 (Part 1 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 8706
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3 (Part 2 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 8707
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3 (Part 3 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 8708
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3 (Part 4 Of 4)
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C4
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 8709
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C5
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C6
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Diagrams > C1 > Page 8710
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C7
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Application and ID > Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Fuse Block: Application and ID Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center (Part 1 Of 2)
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Application and ID > Underhood Bussed Electrical Center > Page 8713
Fuse Block: Application and ID I/P Bussed Electrical Center
LH I/P Bussed Electrical Center
LH I/P Bussed Electrical Center
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Application and ID > Underhood Bussed Electrical Center > Page 8714
RH I/P Bussed Electrical Center
RH I/P Bussed Electrical Center
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Application and ID > Page 8715
Fuse Block: Service and Repair
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Negative battery cable from battery. 2. Positive cable from battery. 3. Air inlet. 4. Cover from
B.E.C. and battery cable. 5. Splice pack from inner fender. 6. Pull B.E.C. out of bracket and rotate
clockwise 180 degrees. 7. Unsnap bottom cover. 8. Connectors from B.E.C. 9. B.E.C.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. B.E.C. 2. Connectors to B.E.C. 3. Snap bottom cover. 4. Rotate counterclockwise 180 degrees.
Push B.E.C. into bracket. 5. Splice pack to inner fender. 6. Battery cable and cover to B.E.C. 7. Air
inlet. 8. Positive cable to battery. 9. Negative battery cable to battery.
Tighten ^
Bolts to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fusible Link > Component
Information > Locations
Front Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Grounding Point > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair
Grounding Point: Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 10-08-45-001B
Date: October 25, 2010
Subject: Information for Electrical Ground Repair - Use New Replacement Fasteners with
Conductive Finish
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2011 model year and update the Warranty
Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 10-08-45-001A (Section 08 - Body and
Accessories).
Electrical Ground Repair Overview
Proper electrical system function relies on secure, stable and corrosion-free electrical ground
connections. Loose, stripped, or corroded connections increase the possibility of improper system
function and loss of module communication. These conditions may also lead to unnecessary
repairs and component replacement.
In general, electrical ground connections are accomplished using one, or a combination of the
following attachment methods:
- Welded M6 stud and nut
- Welded M6 nut and bolt
- Welded M8 nut and bolt
Determine which attachment method is used and perform the appropriate or alternative repair as
described in this bulletin.
M6 Weld Stud Replacement
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. Select a location adjacent the damaged or missing M6 ground stud having 20 mm (0.79 in)
clearance behind the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in)
clearance surrounding the M6 conductive rivet stud flange.
2. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the repair site
and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
3. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel.
4. Remove paint and primer from the area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole until bare metal is
visible.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Grounding Point > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8723
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
5. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
6. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
7. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 8. Ensure the rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement. 9.
Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable and
corrosion-free electrical ground.
10. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 11. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 12. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 13. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 14. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Grounding Point > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8724
15. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 16. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the rivet stud. 17. Select a M6
conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 18. Install the M6 conductive
nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
19. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M6 weld nut at the electrical ground location is damaged or stripped, a M7 conductive
self-threading bolt may be used to secure the ground
wire terminal.
2. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the weld nut and allow to dry. 3. Remove any loose metal particles from the damaged
or stripped weld nut with a stiff brush. 4. Select a M7 conductive self-threading bolt. Refer to the
Parts Information section of this bulletin 5. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric Lubricant GM P/N
12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M7 conductive self-threading
bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
6. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 7. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M7 conductive self-threading bolt.
8. Install the M7 conductive self-threading bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
9. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6 conductive bolt
and a M6 conductive nut may be used to secure
the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M6 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 8.5 mm (0.33 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 8.5 mm (0.33 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M6 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M6 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M6 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Grounding Point > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8725
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M8
conductive bolt and a M8 conductive nut may be
used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this
bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind the panel
surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance surrounding
the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M8 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M8 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M8 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M8 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M8 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 22 Nm (16 lb ft).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is not accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6
conductive rivet stud and a M6 conductive nut
may be used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the M6 conductive rivet stud flange.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the repair site
and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Grounding Point > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8726
5. Remove paint and primer from the area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) until bare metal is
visible.
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
6. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
7. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
8. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 9. Ensure the new rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement.
10. Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Grounding Point > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8727
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the electrical ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable
and corrosion-free electrical ground.
11. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 12. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 13. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 14. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 15. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
16. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 17. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M6 conductive rivet stud. 18.
Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 19. Install the M6
conductive nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in)
20. Verify proper system operation.
Parts Information
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Grounding Point > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8728
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Power Interrupt Connector/Switch
> Component Information > Description and Operation
Power Interrupt Connector/Switch: Description and Operation
The Battery Rundown Function helps to prevent the Battery from deep discharge due to
interior/courtesy lighting being inadvertently left ON. It performs this function by turning OFF the
inadvertent power output (which provides power for the interior/courtesy lights).
When the Ignition Switch is turned to the OFF position a time out period is started. This time out
period is 3 minutes when the odometer is less than 24 km (15 miles) and it is 20 minutes when the
odometer is greater than 24 km (15 miles). When the time out expires the inadvertent power output
is turned off.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and
Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > I/P Junction Block
Left Side Of I/P
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and
Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > I/P Junction Block > Page 8737
Left Side Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component
Information > Locations > I/P Junction Block
Left Side Of I/P
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component
Information > Locations > I/P Junction Block > Page 8742
Left Side Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Sensors and Switches - Power
and Ground Distribution > Power Interrupt Connector/Switch > Component Information > Description and Operation
Power Interrupt Connector/Switch: Description and Operation
The Battery Rundown Function helps to prevent the Battery from deep discharge due to
interior/courtesy lighting being inadvertently left ON. It performs this function by turning OFF the
inadvertent power output (which provides power for the interior/courtesy lights).
When the Ignition Switch is turned to the OFF position a time out period is started. This time out
period is 3 minutes when the odometer is less than 24 km (15 miles) and it is 20 minutes when the
odometer is greater than 24 km (15 miles). When the time out expires the inadvertent power output
is turned off.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set
By Various Control Modules
Wiring Harness: Customer Interest Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 09-06-03-004D
Date: December 08, 2010
Subject: Intermittent No Crank/No Start, No Module Communication, MIL, Warning Lights, Vehicle
Messages or DTCs Set by Various Control Modules - Diagnosing and Repairing Fretting Corrosion
(Disconnect Affected Connector and Apply Dielectric Lubricant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Attention:
This repair can be applied to ANY electrical connection including, but not limited to: lighting, body
electrical, in-line connections, powertrain control sensors, etc. DO NOT over apply lubricant to the
point where it prevents the full engagement of sealed connectors. A light coating on the terminal
surfaces is sufficient to correct the condition.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the Attention statement and add the 2011
model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-06-03-004C (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions:
- An intermittent no crank/no start
- Intermittent malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination
- Intermittent service lamp illumination
- Intermittent service message(s) being displayed
The technician may determine that he is unable to duplicate the intermittent condition.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a buildup of nonconductive insulating oxidized debris known as
fretting corrosion, occurring between two electrical contact surfaces of the connection or connector.
This may be caused by any of the following conditions:
- Vibration
- Thermal cycling
- Poor connection/terminal retention
- Micro motion
- A connector, component or wiring harness not properly secured resulting in movement
On low current signal circuits this condition may cause high resistance, resulting in intermittent
connections.
On high current power circuits this condition may cause permanent increases in the resistance and
may cause a device to become inoperative.
Representative List of Control Modules and Components
The following is only a representative list of control modules and components that may be affected
by this connection or connector condition and DOES NOT include every possible module or
component for every vehicle.
- Blower Control Module
- Body Control Module (BCM)
- Communication Interface Module (CIM)
- Cooling Fan Control Module
- Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
- Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module (EBTCM)
- Electronic Suspension Control (ESC) Module
- Engine Control Module (ECM)
- Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) Control Module
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set
By Various Control Modules > Page 8755
- HVAC Actuator
- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
- Any AIR BAG module
- Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner
- Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner
- An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set:
B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
- Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
- Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Correction
Important DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:
- The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.
- The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can
no longer be duplicated.
Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above.
1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle. Retrieve and record any
existing history or current DTCs from all of the
control modules (refer to SI).
‹› If any DTC(s) are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle to identify the
connector(s) of the control module/component
which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).
‹› If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control
module/component which may be causing the
condition (refer to SI).
2. When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component
Connector End Views and Component Locator
documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) which are causing the
condition.
Note Fretting corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the
actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or
identified without the use of a magnifying glass.
Important DO NOT apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown,
as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors. Use ONLY a clean nylon brush
that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin.
3. With a one-inch nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side
and the harness side of the affected connector(s).
4. Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present.
5. Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information:
- DTC Diagnostic Procedure
- Circuit/System Description
- Conditions for Running the DTC
- Conditions for Setting the DTC
- Diagnostic Aids
- Circuit/System Verification
‹› If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete. ‹› If the condition can be duplicated,
then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI).
Repair Order Documentation
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set
By Various Control Modules > Page 8756
Important The following information MUST be documented on the repair order. Failure to do so
may result in a chargeback.
- Customer vehicle condition.
- Was a Service Lamp or Service Message illuminated? If yes, specify which Service Lamp or
Service Message.
- Was a DTC(s) set? If yes, specify which DTC(s) were set.
- After following the procedure contained within this bulletin, could the condition be duplicated?
‹› If the condition was not duplicated, then document the affected module/component connector
name and number on the repair order.
- If the condition was duplicated after the procedure contained within this bulletin was followed, and
additional diagnosis led to the replacement of a module or component, the SI Document ID
Number MUST be written on the repair order.
Parts Information
Alternate Distributor For All of North America
Note
NyoGel(R) 760G Lubricant* is equivalent to GMSPO P/N 12377900, and P/N 10953529 (Canada),
specified for use to correct the condition in this bulletin.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume
any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be
available from other sources.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set
By Various Control Modules > Page 8757
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to refer to the table
above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10
> Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules
Wiring Harness: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control
Modules
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 09-06-03-004D
Date: December 08, 2010
Subject: Intermittent No Crank/No Start, No Module Communication, MIL, Warning Lights, Vehicle
Messages or DTCs Set by Various Control Modules - Diagnosing and Repairing Fretting Corrosion
(Disconnect Affected Connector and Apply Dielectric Lubricant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Attention:
This repair can be applied to ANY electrical connection including, but not limited to: lighting, body
electrical, in-line connections, powertrain control sensors, etc. DO NOT over apply lubricant to the
point where it prevents the full engagement of sealed connectors. A light coating on the terminal
surfaces is sufficient to correct the condition.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the Attention statement and add the 2011
model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-06-03-004C (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions:
- An intermittent no crank/no start
- Intermittent malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination
- Intermittent service lamp illumination
- Intermittent service message(s) being displayed
The technician may determine that he is unable to duplicate the intermittent condition.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a buildup of nonconductive insulating oxidized debris known as
fretting corrosion, occurring between two electrical contact surfaces of the connection or connector.
This may be caused by any of the following conditions:
- Vibration
- Thermal cycling
- Poor connection/terminal retention
- Micro motion
- A connector, component or wiring harness not properly secured resulting in movement
On low current signal circuits this condition may cause high resistance, resulting in intermittent
connections.
On high current power circuits this condition may cause permanent increases in the resistance and
may cause a device to become inoperative.
Representative List of Control Modules and Components
The following is only a representative list of control modules and components that may be affected
by this connection or connector condition and DOES NOT include every possible module or
component for every vehicle.
- Blower Control Module
- Body Control Module (BCM)
- Communication Interface Module (CIM)
- Cooling Fan Control Module
- Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
- Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module (EBTCM)
- Electronic Suspension Control (ESC) Module
- Engine Control Module (ECM)
- Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) Control Module
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10
> Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 8763
- HVAC Actuator
- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
- Any AIR BAG module
- Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner
- Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner
- An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set:
B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
- Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
- Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Correction
Important DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:
- The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.
- The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can
no longer be duplicated.
Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above.
1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle. Retrieve and record any
existing history or current DTCs from all of the
control modules (refer to SI).
‹› If any DTC(s) are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle to identify the
connector(s) of the control module/component
which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).
‹› If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control
module/component which may be causing the
condition (refer to SI).
2. When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component
Connector End Views and Component Locator
documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) which are causing the
condition.
Note Fretting corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the
actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or
identified without the use of a magnifying glass.
Important DO NOT apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown,
as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors. Use ONLY a clean nylon brush
that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin.
3. With a one-inch nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side
and the harness side of the affected connector(s).
4. Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present.
5. Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information:
- DTC Diagnostic Procedure
- Circuit/System Description
- Conditions for Running the DTC
- Conditions for Setting the DTC
- Diagnostic Aids
- Circuit/System Verification
‹› If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete. ‹› If the condition can be duplicated,
then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI).
Repair Order Documentation
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10
> Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 8764
Important The following information MUST be documented on the repair order. Failure to do so
may result in a chargeback.
- Customer vehicle condition.
- Was a Service Lamp or Service Message illuminated? If yes, specify which Service Lamp or
Service Message.
- Was a DTC(s) set? If yes, specify which DTC(s) were set.
- After following the procedure contained within this bulletin, could the condition be duplicated?
‹› If the condition was not duplicated, then document the affected module/component connector
name and number on the repair order.
- If the condition was duplicated after the procedure contained within this bulletin was followed, and
additional diagnosis led to the replacement of a module or component, the SI Document ID
Number MUST be written on the repair order.
Parts Information
Alternate Distributor For All of North America
Note
NyoGel(R) 760G Lubricant* is equivalent to GMSPO P/N 12377900, and P/N 10953529 (Canada),
specified for use to correct the condition in this bulletin.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume
any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be
available from other sources.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10
> Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 8765
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to refer to the table
above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10
> Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair
Wiring Harness: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 10-08-45-001B
Date: October 25, 2010
Subject: Information for Electrical Ground Repair - Use New Replacement Fasteners with
Conductive Finish
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2011 model year and update the Warranty
Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 10-08-45-001A (Section 08 - Body and
Accessories).
Electrical Ground Repair Overview
Proper electrical system function relies on secure, stable and corrosion-free electrical ground
connections. Loose, stripped, or corroded connections increase the possibility of improper system
function and loss of module communication. These conditions may also lead to unnecessary
repairs and component replacement.
In general, electrical ground connections are accomplished using one, or a combination of the
following attachment methods:
- Welded M6 stud and nut
- Welded M6 nut and bolt
- Welded M8 nut and bolt
Determine which attachment method is used and perform the appropriate or alternative repair as
described in this bulletin.
M6 Weld Stud Replacement
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. Select a location adjacent the damaged or missing M6 ground stud having 20 mm (0.79 in)
clearance behind the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in)
clearance surrounding the M6 conductive rivet stud flange.
2. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the repair site
and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
3. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel.
4. Remove paint and primer from the area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole until bare metal is
visible.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10
> Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8770
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
5. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
6. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
7. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 8. Ensure the rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement. 9.
Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable and
corrosion-free electrical ground.
10. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 11. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 12. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 13. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 14. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10
> Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8771
15. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 16. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the rivet stud. 17. Select a M6
conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 18. Install the M6 conductive
nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
19. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M6 weld nut at the electrical ground location is damaged or stripped, a M7 conductive
self-threading bolt may be used to secure the ground
wire terminal.
2. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the weld nut and allow to dry. 3. Remove any loose metal particles from the damaged
or stripped weld nut with a stiff brush. 4. Select a M7 conductive self-threading bolt. Refer to the
Parts Information section of this bulletin 5. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric Lubricant GM P/N
12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M7 conductive self-threading
bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
6. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 7. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M7 conductive self-threading bolt.
8. Install the M7 conductive self-threading bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
9. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6 conductive bolt
and a M6 conductive nut may be used to secure
the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M6 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 8.5 mm (0.33 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 8.5 mm (0.33 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M6 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M6 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M6 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10
> Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8772
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M8
conductive bolt and a M8 conductive nut may be
used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this
bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind the panel
surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance surrounding
the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M8 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M8 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M8 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M8 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M8 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 22 Nm (16 lb ft).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is not accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6
conductive rivet stud and a M6 conductive nut
may be used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the M6 conductive rivet stud flange.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the repair site
and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10
> Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8773
5. Remove paint and primer from the area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) until bare metal is
visible.
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
6. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
7. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
8. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 9. Ensure the new rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement.
10. Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10
> Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8774
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the electrical ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable
and corrosion-free electrical ground.
11. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 12. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 13. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 14. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 15. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
16. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 17. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M6 conductive rivet stud. 18.
Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 19. Install the M6
conductive nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in)
20. Verify proper system operation.
Parts Information
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10
> Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8775
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 06-08-45-004 > May > 06 >
Electrical - Instrument Panel & General Wiring Repair
Wiring Harness: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Instrument Panel & General Wiring
Repair
Bulletin No.: 06-08-45-004
Date: May 02, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Instrument Panel (I/P), Body and General Wiring Harness Repair
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Trucks 2003-2007 HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3
Important:
A part restriction has been implemented on all Body and I/P harnesses and is being administered
by the PQC. If a body or I/P harness replacement is required, it can take 12-28 weeks for a
harness to be built and delivered to a dealer. The dealer technician is expected to repair any
harness damage as the first and best choice before replacing a harness.
In an effort to standardize repair practices, General Motors is requiring that all wiring harnesses be
repaired instead of replaced. If there is a question concerning which connector and/or terminal you
are working on, refer to the information in the appropriate Connector End Views in SI. The
Instruction Manual J 38125-620, which is sent with each new update of the J 38125 Terminal
Repair Kit, also has terminal crimping and terminal remove information.
Important:
There are some parts in the J 38125 Terminal Repair Kit (i.e. SIR connector CPAs and heat shrink
tube (used in high heat area pigtail replacement) and some TPAs that are not available from
GMSPO. It is vitally important that each update to the J 38125 Terminal Repair Kit be done as soon
as it arrives at the dealer.
Utilize the Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125) to achieve an effective wiring repair. The Terminal Repair
Kit has been an essential tool for all GM Dealers since 1987. Replacement terminals and tools for
this kit are available through SPX/Kent Moore. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 06-08-45-001
for more information.
The Instruction Manual J 38125-620, which is sent with each new update to the J 38125 Terminal
Repair Kit, also has terminal crimping and terminal removal information.
U.S. Dealers Only - Training courses (including Tech Assists, Emerging Issues, Web, IDL and
Hands-on) are available through the GM Training website. Refer to Resources and then Training
Materials for a complete list of available courses.
Canadian Dealers Only - Refer to the Training section of GM infoNet for a complete list of available
courses and a copy of the J 38125 Terminal Repair Kit Instruction Manual.
Wiring repair information is also available in Service Information (SI). The Wiring Repair section
contains information for the following types of wiring repairs:
- Testing for intermittent conditions and poor conditions
- Flat wire repairs
- GMLAN wiring repairs
- High temperature wiring repairs
- Splicing copper wire using splice clips
- Splicing copper wire using splice sleeves
- Splicing twisted or shielded cable
- Splicing inline harness diodes
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 06-08-45-004 > May > 06 >
Electrical - Instrument Panel & General Wiring Repair > Page 8780
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 >
Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair
Wiring Harness: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 10-08-45-001B
Date: October 25, 2010
Subject: Information for Electrical Ground Repair - Use New Replacement Fasteners with
Conductive Finish
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2011 model year and update the Warranty
Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 10-08-45-001A (Section 08 - Body and
Accessories).
Electrical Ground Repair Overview
Proper electrical system function relies on secure, stable and corrosion-free electrical ground
connections. Loose, stripped, or corroded connections increase the possibility of improper system
function and loss of module communication. These conditions may also lead to unnecessary
repairs and component replacement.
In general, electrical ground connections are accomplished using one, or a combination of the
following attachment methods:
- Welded M6 stud and nut
- Welded M6 nut and bolt
- Welded M8 nut and bolt
Determine which attachment method is used and perform the appropriate or alternative repair as
described in this bulletin.
M6 Weld Stud Replacement
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. Select a location adjacent the damaged or missing M6 ground stud having 20 mm (0.79 in)
clearance behind the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in)
clearance surrounding the M6 conductive rivet stud flange.
2. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the repair site
and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
3. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel.
4. Remove paint and primer from the area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole until bare metal is
visible.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 >
Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8786
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
5. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
6. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
7. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 8. Ensure the rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement. 9.
Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable and
corrosion-free electrical ground.
10. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 11. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 12. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 13. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 14. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 >
Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8787
15. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 16. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the rivet stud. 17. Select a M6
conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 18. Install the M6 conductive
nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
19. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M6 weld nut at the electrical ground location is damaged or stripped, a M7 conductive
self-threading bolt may be used to secure the ground
wire terminal.
2. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the weld nut and allow to dry. 3. Remove any loose metal particles from the damaged
or stripped weld nut with a stiff brush. 4. Select a M7 conductive self-threading bolt. Refer to the
Parts Information section of this bulletin 5. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric Lubricant GM P/N
12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M7 conductive self-threading
bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
6. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 7. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M7 conductive self-threading bolt.
8. Install the M7 conductive self-threading bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
9. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6 conductive bolt
and a M6 conductive nut may be used to secure
the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M6 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 8.5 mm (0.33 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 8.5 mm (0.33 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M6 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M6 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M6 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 >
Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8788
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M8
conductive bolt and a M8 conductive nut may be
used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this
bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind the panel
surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance surrounding
the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M8 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M8 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M8 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M8 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M8 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 22 Nm (16 lb ft).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is not accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6
conductive rivet stud and a M6 conductive nut
may be used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the M6 conductive rivet stud flange.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the repair site
and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 >
Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8789
5. Remove paint and primer from the area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) until bare metal is
visible.
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
6. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
7. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
8. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 9. Ensure the new rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement.
10. Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 >
Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8790
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the electrical ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable
and corrosion-free electrical ground.
11. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 12. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 13. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 14. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 15. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
16. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 17. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M6 conductive rivet stud. 18.
Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 19. Install the M6
conductive nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in)
20. Verify proper system operation.
Parts Information
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 >
Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8791
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 06-08-45-004 > May > 06 >
Electrical - Instrument Panel & General Wiring Repair
Wiring Harness: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Instrument Panel & General Wiring
Repair
Bulletin No.: 06-08-45-004
Date: May 02, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Instrument Panel (I/P), Body and General Wiring Harness Repair
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Trucks 2003-2007 HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3
Important:
A part restriction has been implemented on all Body and I/P harnesses and is being administered
by the PQC. If a body or I/P harness replacement is required, it can take 12-28 weeks for a
harness to be built and delivered to a dealer. The dealer technician is expected to repair any
harness damage as the first and best choice before replacing a harness.
In an effort to standardize repair practices, General Motors is requiring that all wiring harnesses be
repaired instead of replaced. If there is a question concerning which connector and/or terminal you
are working on, refer to the information in the appropriate Connector End Views in SI. The
Instruction Manual J 38125-620, which is sent with each new update of the J 38125 Terminal
Repair Kit, also has terminal crimping and terminal remove information.
Important:
There are some parts in the J 38125 Terminal Repair Kit (i.e. SIR connector CPAs and heat shrink
tube (used in high heat area pigtail replacement) and some TPAs that are not available from
GMSPO. It is vitally important that each update to the J 38125 Terminal Repair Kit be done as soon
as it arrives at the dealer.
Utilize the Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125) to achieve an effective wiring repair. The Terminal Repair
Kit has been an essential tool for all GM Dealers since 1987. Replacement terminals and tools for
this kit are available through SPX/Kent Moore. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 06-08-45-001
for more information.
The Instruction Manual J 38125-620, which is sent with each new update to the J 38125 Terminal
Repair Kit, also has terminal crimping and terminal removal information.
U.S. Dealers Only - Training courses (including Tech Assists, Emerging Issues, Web, IDL and
Hands-on) are available through the GM Training website. Refer to Resources and then Training
Materials for a complete list of available courses.
Canadian Dealers Only - Refer to the Training section of GM infoNet for a complete list of available
courses and a copy of the J 38125 Terminal Repair Kit Instruction Manual.
Wiring repair information is also available in Service Information (SI). The Wiring Repair section
contains information for the following types of wiring repairs:
- Testing for intermittent conditions and poor conditions
- Flat wire repairs
- GMLAN wiring repairs
- High temperature wiring repairs
- Splicing copper wire using splice clips
- Splicing copper wire using splice sleeves
- Splicing twisted or shielded cable
- Splicing inline harness diodes
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 06-08-45-004 > May > 06 >
Electrical - Instrument Panel & General Wiring Repair > Page 8796
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Auxiliary Power Outlet: > 99-08-45-005 > Nov > 99 > Accessory
Receptacle/Cigar Lighter - Inoperative
Auxiliary Power Outlet: Customer Interest Accessory Receptacle/Cigar Lighter - Inoperative
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-45-005
Date: November, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Accessory Receptacle/Cigar Lighter is Inoperative (Check Aftermarket Device Plug for
Short to Ground)
Models: 1995-2000 Passenger Cars and Trucks
Condition
Some customers may comment that the cigar lighter or the accessory receptacle is inoperative; or
that the internal fuse (within the plug on an aftermarket device), blows intermittently.
Cause
Certain aftermarket devices have a newly designed power plug with an internal mini fuse. The mini
fuse may have an external terminal (which may be used to externally check the fuse). If the mini
fuse external test terminal is not recessed into the mini fuse body, it may come in contact with the
shell of the vehicle receptacle and cause the fuse (of either the vehicle or the aftermarket device),
to blow intermittently.
Correction
Test the aftermarket device plug for short to ground. The following step may be performed at the
customer's expense. As this is not a defect in material, design or workmanship of the vehicle, it
would be the owner's responsibility.
1. Place a piece of tape over the mini fuse terminal temporarily.
2. Explain to the customer that the fuse for the device must have no exposed terminals, and that
finding one would be his responsibility.
3. Refer the customer to the manufacturer of the aftermarket device for a new plug.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Auxiliary Power Outlet: > 99-08-45-005 > Nov > 99 >
Accessory Receptacle/Cigar Lighter - Inoperative
Auxiliary Power Outlet: All Technical Service Bulletins Accessory Receptacle/Cigar Lighter Inoperative
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-45-005
Date: November, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Accessory Receptacle/Cigar Lighter is Inoperative (Check Aftermarket Device Plug for
Short to Ground)
Models: 1995-2000 Passenger Cars and Trucks
Condition
Some customers may comment that the cigar lighter or the accessory receptacle is inoperative; or
that the internal fuse (within the plug on an aftermarket device), blows intermittently.
Cause
Certain aftermarket devices have a newly designed power plug with an internal mini fuse. The mini
fuse may have an external terminal (which may be used to externally check the fuse). If the mini
fuse external test terminal is not recessed into the mini fuse body, it may come in contact with the
shell of the vehicle receptacle and cause the fuse (of either the vehicle or the aftermarket device),
to blow intermittently.
Correction
Test the aftermarket device plug for short to ground. The following step may be performed at the
customer's expense. As this is not a defect in material, design or workmanship of the vehicle, it
would be the owner's responsibility.
1. Place a piece of tape over the mini fuse terminal temporarily.
2. Explain to the customer that the fuse for the device must have no exposed terminals, and that
finding one would be his responsibility.
3. Refer the customer to the manufacturer of the aftermarket device for a new plug.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8811
Top RH Side Of I/P
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8812
Auxiliary Power Outlet
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Electrical - Aftermarket Fuse Warning
Fuse: Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Aftermarket Fuse Warning
Bulletin No.: 07-08-45-002
Date: September 05, 2007
ADVANCED SERVICE INFORMATION
Subject: Service Alert: Concerns With Aftermarket Fuses in GM Vehicles
Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn) 2008 and
Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2008 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Concerns with Harbor Freight Tools "Storehouse" Branded Blade Type Fuses
General Motors has become aware of a fuse recall by Harbor Freight Tools/Storehouse for a
variety of aftermarket fuses. In two cases, these fuses have not provided protection for the wiring
system of the vehicles they were customer installed in.
Upon testing the 15 amp version, it was found that the fuse still would not "open" when shorted
directly across the battery terminals.
How to Identify These Fuses
Packed in a 120 piece set, the fuse has a translucent, hard plastic, blue body with the amperage
stamped into the top. There are no white painted numbers on the fuse to indicate amperage. There
are no identifying marks on the fuse to tell who is making it. The fuses are known to be distributed
by Harbor Freight Tools but there may be other marketers, and packaging of this style of fuse. It
would be prudent to replace these fuses if found in a customers vehicle. Likewise, if wiring
overheating is found you should check the fuse panel for the presence of this style of fuse.
All GM dealers should use genuine GM fuses on the vehicles they service. You should also
encourage the use of GM fuses to your customers to assure they are getting the required electrical
system protection. GM has no knowledge of any concerns with other aftermarket fuses. If
additional information becomes available, this bulletin will be updated.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Locations > I/P Junction
Block
Left Side Of I/P
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Locations > I/P Junction
Block > Page 8819
Left Side Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Application and ID >
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Fuse: Application and ID Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center (Part 1 Of 2)
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Application and ID >
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center > Page 8822
Fuse: Application and ID I/P Bussed Electrical Center
LH I/P Bussed Electrical Center
LH I/P Bussed Electrical Center
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Application and ID >
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center > Page 8823
RH I/P Bussed Electrical Center
RH I/P Bussed Electrical Center
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Locations > I/P
Junction Block
Left Side Of I/P
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Locations > I/P
Junction Block > Page 8828
Left Side Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > C1
Fuse Block: Diagrams C1
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1
Pinout Description
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 1 Of 5)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 8831
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 2 Of 5)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 8832
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 3 Of 5)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 8833
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 4 Of 5)
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 5 Of 5)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 8834
Fuse Block: Diagrams C2
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2
Pinout Description
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2 (Part 1 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 8835
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2 (Part 2 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 8836
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2 (Part 3 Of 4)
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2 (Part 4 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 8837
Fuse Block: Diagrams C3
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3
Pinout Description
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3 (Part 1 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 8838
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3 (Part 2 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 8839
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3 (Part 3 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 8840
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3 (Part 4 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 8841
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C4
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 8842
Fuse Block: Diagrams
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1
Pinout Description
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 1 Of 5)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 8843
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 2 Of 5)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 8844
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 3 Of 5)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 8845
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 4 Of 5)
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C1 (Part 5 Of 5)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 8846
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2
Pinout Description
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2 (Part 1 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 8847
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2 (Part 2 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 8848
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2 (Part 3 Of 4)
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C2 (Part 4 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 8849
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3
Pinout Description
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3 (Part 1 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 8850
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3 (Part 2 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 8851
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3 (Part 3 Of 4)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 8852
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C3 (Part 4 Of 4)
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C4
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 8853
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C5
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C6
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > C1 >
Page 8854
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center: C7
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Application and ID
> Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Fuse Block: Application and ID Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center (Part 1 Of 2)
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Application and ID
> Underhood Bussed Electrical Center > Page 8857
Fuse Block: Application and ID I/P Bussed Electrical Center
LH I/P Bussed Electrical Center
LH I/P Bussed Electrical Center
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Application and ID
> Underhood Bussed Electrical Center > Page 8858
RH I/P Bussed Electrical Center
RH I/P Bussed Electrical Center
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Application and ID
> Page 8859
Fuse Block: Service and Repair
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Negative battery cable from battery. 2. Positive cable from battery. 3. Air inlet. 4. Cover from
B.E.C. and battery cable. 5. Splice pack from inner fender. 6. Pull B.E.C. out of bracket and rotate
clockwise 180 degrees. 7. Unsnap bottom cover. 8. Connectors from B.E.C. 9. B.E.C.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. B.E.C. 2. Connectors to B.E.C. 3. Snap bottom cover. 4. Rotate counterclockwise 180 degrees.
Push B.E.C. into bracket. 5. Splice pack to inner fender. 6. Battery cable and cover to B.E.C. 7. Air
inlet. 8. Positive cable to battery. 9. Negative battery cable to battery.
Tighten ^
Bolts to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fusible Link > Component Information > Locations
Front Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Grounding Point > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair
Grounding Point: Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 10-08-45-001B
Date: October 25, 2010
Subject: Information for Electrical Ground Repair - Use New Replacement Fasteners with
Conductive Finish
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2011 model year and update the Warranty
Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 10-08-45-001A (Section 08 - Body and
Accessories).
Electrical Ground Repair Overview
Proper electrical system function relies on secure, stable and corrosion-free electrical ground
connections. Loose, stripped, or corroded connections increase the possibility of improper system
function and loss of module communication. These conditions may also lead to unnecessary
repairs and component replacement.
In general, electrical ground connections are accomplished using one, or a combination of the
following attachment methods:
- Welded M6 stud and nut
- Welded M6 nut and bolt
- Welded M8 nut and bolt
Determine which attachment method is used and perform the appropriate or alternative repair as
described in this bulletin.
M6 Weld Stud Replacement
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. Select a location adjacent the damaged or missing M6 ground stud having 20 mm (0.79 in)
clearance behind the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in)
clearance surrounding the M6 conductive rivet stud flange.
2. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the repair site
and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
3. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel.
4. Remove paint and primer from the area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole until bare metal is
visible.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Grounding Point > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8867
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
5. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
6. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
7. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 8. Ensure the rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement. 9.
Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable and
corrosion-free electrical ground.
10. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 11. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 12. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 13. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 14. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Grounding Point > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8868
15. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 16. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the rivet stud. 17. Select a M6
conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 18. Install the M6 conductive
nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
19. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M6 weld nut at the electrical ground location is damaged or stripped, a M7 conductive
self-threading bolt may be used to secure the ground
wire terminal.
2. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the weld nut and allow to dry. 3. Remove any loose metal particles from the damaged
or stripped weld nut with a stiff brush. 4. Select a M7 conductive self-threading bolt. Refer to the
Parts Information section of this bulletin 5. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric Lubricant GM P/N
12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M7 conductive self-threading
bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
6. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 7. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M7 conductive self-threading bolt.
8. Install the M7 conductive self-threading bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
9. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6 conductive bolt
and a M6 conductive nut may be used to secure
the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M6 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 8.5 mm (0.33 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 8.5 mm (0.33 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M6 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M6 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M6 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Grounding Point > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8869
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M8
conductive bolt and a M8 conductive nut may be
used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this
bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind the panel
surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance surrounding
the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M8 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M8 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M8 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M8 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M8 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 22 Nm (16 lb ft).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is not accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6
conductive rivet stud and a M6 conductive nut
may be used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the M6 conductive rivet stud flange.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the repair site
and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Grounding Point > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8870
5. Remove paint and primer from the area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) until bare metal is
visible.
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
6. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
7. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
8. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 9. Ensure the new rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement.
10. Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Grounding Point > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8871
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the electrical ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable
and corrosion-free electrical ground.
11. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 12. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 13. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 14. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 15. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
16. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 17. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M6 conductive rivet stud. 18.
Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 19. Install the M6
conductive nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in)
20. Verify proper system operation.
Parts Information
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Grounding Point > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8872
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Power Interrupt Connector/Switch > Component
Information > Description and Operation
Power Interrupt Connector/Switch: Description and Operation
The Battery Rundown Function helps to prevent the Battery from deep discharge due to
interior/courtesy lighting being inadvertently left ON. It performs this function by turning OFF the
inadvertent power output (which provides power for the interior/courtesy lights).
When the Ignition Switch is turned to the OFF position a time out period is started. This time out
period is 3 minutes when the odometer is less than 24 km (15 miles) and it is 20 minutes when the
odometer is greater than 24 km (15 miles). When the time out expires the inadvertent power output
is turned off.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution >
Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > I/P Junction Block
Left Side Of I/P
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution >
Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > I/P Junction Block > Page 8881
Left Side Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > I/P
Junction Block
Left Side Of I/P
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations > I/P
Junction Block > Page 8886
Left Side Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Sensors and Switches - Power and Ground Distribution >
Power Interrupt Connector/Switch > Component Information > Description and Operation
Power Interrupt Connector/Switch: Description and Operation
The Battery Rundown Function helps to prevent the Battery from deep discharge due to
interior/courtesy lighting being inadvertently left ON. It performs this function by turning OFF the
inadvertent power output (which provides power for the interior/courtesy lights).
When the Ignition Switch is turned to the OFF position a time out period is started. This time out
period is 3 minutes when the odometer is less than 24 km (15 miles) and it is 20 minutes when the
odometer is greater than 24 km (15 miles). When the time out expires the inadvertent power output
is turned off.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control
Modules
Wiring Harness: Customer Interest Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 09-06-03-004D
Date: December 08, 2010
Subject: Intermittent No Crank/No Start, No Module Communication, MIL, Warning Lights, Vehicle
Messages or DTCs Set by Various Control Modules - Diagnosing and Repairing Fretting Corrosion
(Disconnect Affected Connector and Apply Dielectric Lubricant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Attention:
This repair can be applied to ANY electrical connection including, but not limited to: lighting, body
electrical, in-line connections, powertrain control sensors, etc. DO NOT over apply lubricant to the
point where it prevents the full engagement of sealed connectors. A light coating on the terminal
surfaces is sufficient to correct the condition.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the Attention statement and add the 2011
model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-06-03-004C (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions:
- An intermittent no crank/no start
- Intermittent malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination
- Intermittent service lamp illumination
- Intermittent service message(s) being displayed
The technician may determine that he is unable to duplicate the intermittent condition.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a buildup of nonconductive insulating oxidized debris known as
fretting corrosion, occurring between two electrical contact surfaces of the connection or connector.
This may be caused by any of the following conditions:
- Vibration
- Thermal cycling
- Poor connection/terminal retention
- Micro motion
- A connector, component or wiring harness not properly secured resulting in movement
On low current signal circuits this condition may cause high resistance, resulting in intermittent
connections.
On high current power circuits this condition may cause permanent increases in the resistance and
may cause a device to become inoperative.
Representative List of Control Modules and Components
The following is only a representative list of control modules and components that may be affected
by this connection or connector condition and DOES NOT include every possible module or
component for every vehicle.
- Blower Control Module
- Body Control Module (BCM)
- Communication Interface Module (CIM)
- Cooling Fan Control Module
- Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
- Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module (EBTCM)
- Electronic Suspension Control (ESC) Module
- Engine Control Module (ECM)
- Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) Control Module
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control
Modules > Page 8899
- HVAC Actuator
- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
- Any AIR BAG module
- Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner
- Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner
- An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set:
B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
- Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
- Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Correction
Important DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:
- The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.
- The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can
no longer be duplicated.
Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above.
1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle. Retrieve and record any
existing history or current DTCs from all of the
control modules (refer to SI).
‹› If any DTC(s) are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle to identify the
connector(s) of the control module/component
which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).
‹› If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control
module/component which may be causing the
condition (refer to SI).
2. When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component
Connector End Views and Component Locator
documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) which are causing the
condition.
Note Fretting corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the
actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or
identified without the use of a magnifying glass.
Important DO NOT apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown,
as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors. Use ONLY a clean nylon brush
that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin.
3. With a one-inch nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side
and the harness side of the affected connector(s).
4. Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present.
5. Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information:
- DTC Diagnostic Procedure
- Circuit/System Description
- Conditions for Running the DTC
- Conditions for Setting the DTC
- Diagnostic Aids
- Circuit/System Verification
‹› If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete. ‹› If the condition can be duplicated,
then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI).
Repair Order Documentation
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control
Modules > Page 8900
Important The following information MUST be documented on the repair order. Failure to do so
may result in a chargeback.
- Customer vehicle condition.
- Was a Service Lamp or Service Message illuminated? If yes, specify which Service Lamp or
Service Message.
- Was a DTC(s) set? If yes, specify which DTC(s) were set.
- After following the procedure contained within this bulletin, could the condition be duplicated?
‹› If the condition was not duplicated, then document the affected module/component connector
name and number on the repair order.
- If the condition was duplicated after the procedure contained within this bulletin was followed, and
additional diagnosis led to the replacement of a module or component, the SI Document ID
Number MUST be written on the repair order.
Parts Information
Alternate Distributor For All of North America
Note
NyoGel(R) 760G Lubricant* is equivalent to GMSPO P/N 12377900, and P/N 10953529 (Canada),
specified for use to correct the condition in this bulletin.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume
any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be
available from other sources.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control
Modules > Page 8901
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to refer to the table
above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL
ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules
Wiring Harness: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control
Modules
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 09-06-03-004D
Date: December 08, 2010
Subject: Intermittent No Crank/No Start, No Module Communication, MIL, Warning Lights, Vehicle
Messages or DTCs Set by Various Control Modules - Diagnosing and Repairing Fretting Corrosion
(Disconnect Affected Connector and Apply Dielectric Lubricant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Attention:
This repair can be applied to ANY electrical connection including, but not limited to: lighting, body
electrical, in-line connections, powertrain control sensors, etc. DO NOT over apply lubricant to the
point where it prevents the full engagement of sealed connectors. A light coating on the terminal
surfaces is sufficient to correct the condition.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the Attention statement and add the 2011
model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-06-03-004C (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions:
- An intermittent no crank/no start
- Intermittent malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination
- Intermittent service lamp illumination
- Intermittent service message(s) being displayed
The technician may determine that he is unable to duplicate the intermittent condition.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a buildup of nonconductive insulating oxidized debris known as
fretting corrosion, occurring between two electrical contact surfaces of the connection or connector.
This may be caused by any of the following conditions:
- Vibration
- Thermal cycling
- Poor connection/terminal retention
- Micro motion
- A connector, component or wiring harness not properly secured resulting in movement
On low current signal circuits this condition may cause high resistance, resulting in intermittent
connections.
On high current power circuits this condition may cause permanent increases in the resistance and
may cause a device to become inoperative.
Representative List of Control Modules and Components
The following is only a representative list of control modules and components that may be affected
by this connection or connector condition and DOES NOT include every possible module or
component for every vehicle.
- Blower Control Module
- Body Control Module (BCM)
- Communication Interface Module (CIM)
- Cooling Fan Control Module
- Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
- Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module (EBTCM)
- Electronic Suspension Control (ESC) Module
- Engine Control Module (ECM)
- Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) Control Module
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL
ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 8907
- HVAC Actuator
- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
- Any AIR BAG module
- Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner
- Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner
- An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set:
B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
- Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
- Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Correction
Important DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:
- The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.
- The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can
no longer be duplicated.
Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above.
1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle. Retrieve and record any
existing history or current DTCs from all of the
control modules (refer to SI).
‹› If any DTC(s) are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle to identify the
connector(s) of the control module/component
which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).
‹› If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control
module/component which may be causing the
condition (refer to SI).
2. When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component
Connector End Views and Component Locator
documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) which are causing the
condition.
Note Fretting corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the
actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or
identified without the use of a magnifying glass.
Important DO NOT apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown,
as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors. Use ONLY a clean nylon brush
that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin.
3. With a one-inch nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side
and the harness side of the affected connector(s).
4. Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present.
5. Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information:
- DTC Diagnostic Procedure
- Circuit/System Description
- Conditions for Running the DTC
- Conditions for Setting the DTC
- Diagnostic Aids
- Circuit/System Verification
‹› If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete. ‹› If the condition can be duplicated,
then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI).
Repair Order Documentation
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL
ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 8908
Important The following information MUST be documented on the repair order. Failure to do so
may result in a chargeback.
- Customer vehicle condition.
- Was a Service Lamp or Service Message illuminated? If yes, specify which Service Lamp or
Service Message.
- Was a DTC(s) set? If yes, specify which DTC(s) were set.
- After following the procedure contained within this bulletin, could the condition be duplicated?
‹› If the condition was not duplicated, then document the affected module/component connector
name and number on the repair order.
- If the condition was duplicated after the procedure contained within this bulletin was followed, and
additional diagnosis led to the replacement of a module or component, the SI Document ID
Number MUST be written on the repair order.
Parts Information
Alternate Distributor For All of North America
Note
NyoGel(R) 760G Lubricant* is equivalent to GMSPO P/N 12377900, and P/N 10953529 (Canada),
specified for use to correct the condition in this bulletin.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume
any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be
available from other sources.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL
ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 8909
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to refer to the table
above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information
For Electrical Ground Repair
Wiring Harness: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 10-08-45-001B
Date: October 25, 2010
Subject: Information for Electrical Ground Repair - Use New Replacement Fasteners with
Conductive Finish
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2011 model year and update the Warranty
Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 10-08-45-001A (Section 08 - Body and
Accessories).
Electrical Ground Repair Overview
Proper electrical system function relies on secure, stable and corrosion-free electrical ground
connections. Loose, stripped, or corroded connections increase the possibility of improper system
function and loss of module communication. These conditions may also lead to unnecessary
repairs and component replacement.
In general, electrical ground connections are accomplished using one, or a combination of the
following attachment methods:
- Welded M6 stud and nut
- Welded M6 nut and bolt
- Welded M8 nut and bolt
Determine which attachment method is used and perform the appropriate or alternative repair as
described in this bulletin.
M6 Weld Stud Replacement
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. Select a location adjacent the damaged or missing M6 ground stud having 20 mm (0.79 in)
clearance behind the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in)
clearance surrounding the M6 conductive rivet stud flange.
2. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the repair site
and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
3. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel.
4. Remove paint and primer from the area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole until bare metal is
visible.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information
For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8914
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
5. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
6. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
7. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 8. Ensure the rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement. 9.
Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable and
corrosion-free electrical ground.
10. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 11. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 12. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 13. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 14. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information
For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8915
15. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 16. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the rivet stud. 17. Select a M6
conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 18. Install the M6 conductive
nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
19. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M6 weld nut at the electrical ground location is damaged or stripped, a M7 conductive
self-threading bolt may be used to secure the ground
wire terminal.
2. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the weld nut and allow to dry. 3. Remove any loose metal particles from the damaged
or stripped weld nut with a stiff brush. 4. Select a M7 conductive self-threading bolt. Refer to the
Parts Information section of this bulletin 5. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric Lubricant GM P/N
12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M7 conductive self-threading
bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
6. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 7. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M7 conductive self-threading bolt.
8. Install the M7 conductive self-threading bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
9. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6 conductive bolt
and a M6 conductive nut may be used to secure
the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M6 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 8.5 mm (0.33 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 8.5 mm (0.33 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M6 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M6 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M6 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information
For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8916
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M8
conductive bolt and a M8 conductive nut may be
used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this
bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind the panel
surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance surrounding
the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M8 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M8 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M8 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M8 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M8 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 22 Nm (16 lb ft).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is not accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6
conductive rivet stud and a M6 conductive nut
may be used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the M6 conductive rivet stud flange.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the repair site
and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information
For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8917
5. Remove paint and primer from the area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) until bare metal is
visible.
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
6. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
7. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
8. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 9. Ensure the new rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement.
10. Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information
For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8918
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the electrical ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable
and corrosion-free electrical ground.
11. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 12. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 13. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 14. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 15. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
16. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 17. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M6 conductive rivet stud. 18.
Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 19. Install the M6
conductive nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in)
20. Verify proper system operation.
Parts Information
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information
For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8919
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 06-08-45-004 > May > 06 > Electrical - Instrument
Panel & General Wiring Repair
Wiring Harness: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Instrument Panel & General Wiring
Repair
Bulletin No.: 06-08-45-004
Date: May 02, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Instrument Panel (I/P), Body and General Wiring Harness Repair
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Trucks 2003-2007 HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3
Important:
A part restriction has been implemented on all Body and I/P harnesses and is being administered
by the PQC. If a body or I/P harness replacement is required, it can take 12-28 weeks for a
harness to be built and delivered to a dealer. The dealer technician is expected to repair any
harness damage as the first and best choice before replacing a harness.
In an effort to standardize repair practices, General Motors is requiring that all wiring harnesses be
repaired instead of replaced. If there is a question concerning which connector and/or terminal you
are working on, refer to the information in the appropriate Connector End Views in SI. The
Instruction Manual J 38125-620, which is sent with each new update of the J 38125 Terminal
Repair Kit, also has terminal crimping and terminal remove information.
Important:
There are some parts in the J 38125 Terminal Repair Kit (i.e. SIR connector CPAs and heat shrink
tube (used in high heat area pigtail replacement) and some TPAs that are not available from
GMSPO. It is vitally important that each update to the J 38125 Terminal Repair Kit be done as soon
as it arrives at the dealer.
Utilize the Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125) to achieve an effective wiring repair. The Terminal Repair
Kit has been an essential tool for all GM Dealers since 1987. Replacement terminals and tools for
this kit are available through SPX/Kent Moore. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 06-08-45-001
for more information.
The Instruction Manual J 38125-620, which is sent with each new update to the J 38125 Terminal
Repair Kit, also has terminal crimping and terminal removal information.
U.S. Dealers Only - Training courses (including Tech Assists, Emerging Issues, Web, IDL and
Hands-on) are available through the GM Training website. Refer to Resources and then Training
Materials for a complete list of available courses.
Canadian Dealers Only - Refer to the Training section of GM infoNet for a complete list of available
courses and a copy of the J 38125 Terminal Repair Kit Instruction Manual.
Wiring repair information is also available in Service Information (SI). The Wiring Repair section
contains information for the following types of wiring repairs:
- Testing for intermittent conditions and poor conditions
- Flat wire repairs
- GMLAN wiring repairs
- High temperature wiring repairs
- Splicing copper wire using splice clips
- Splicing copper wire using splice sleeves
- Splicing twisted or shielded cable
- Splicing inline harness diodes
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 06-08-45-004 > May > 06 > Electrical - Instrument
Panel & General Wiring Repair > Page 8924
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For
Electrical Ground Repair
Wiring Harness: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 10-08-45-001B
Date: October 25, 2010
Subject: Information for Electrical Ground Repair - Use New Replacement Fasteners with
Conductive Finish
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2011 model year and update the Warranty
Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 10-08-45-001A (Section 08 - Body and
Accessories).
Electrical Ground Repair Overview
Proper electrical system function relies on secure, stable and corrosion-free electrical ground
connections. Loose, stripped, or corroded connections increase the possibility of improper system
function and loss of module communication. These conditions may also lead to unnecessary
repairs and component replacement.
In general, electrical ground connections are accomplished using one, or a combination of the
following attachment methods:
- Welded M6 stud and nut
- Welded M6 nut and bolt
- Welded M8 nut and bolt
Determine which attachment method is used and perform the appropriate or alternative repair as
described in this bulletin.
M6 Weld Stud Replacement
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. Select a location adjacent the damaged or missing M6 ground stud having 20 mm (0.79 in)
clearance behind the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in)
clearance surrounding the M6 conductive rivet stud flange.
2. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the repair site
and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
3. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel.
4. Remove paint and primer from the area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole until bare metal is
visible.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For
Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8930
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
5. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
6. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
7. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 8. Ensure the rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement. 9.
Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable and
corrosion-free electrical ground.
10. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 11. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 12. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 13. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 14. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For
Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8931
15. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 16. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the rivet stud. 17. Select a M6
conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 18. Install the M6 conductive
nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
19. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M6 weld nut at the electrical ground location is damaged or stripped, a M7 conductive
self-threading bolt may be used to secure the ground
wire terminal.
2. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the weld nut and allow to dry. 3. Remove any loose metal particles from the damaged
or stripped weld nut with a stiff brush. 4. Select a M7 conductive self-threading bolt. Refer to the
Parts Information section of this bulletin 5. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric Lubricant GM P/N
12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M7 conductive self-threading
bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
6. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 7. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M7 conductive self-threading bolt.
8. Install the M7 conductive self-threading bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
9. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6 conductive bolt
and a M6 conductive nut may be used to secure
the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M6 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 8.5 mm (0.33 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 8.5 mm (0.33 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M6 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M6 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M6 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For
Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8932
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M8
conductive bolt and a M8 conductive nut may be
used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this
bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind the panel
surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance surrounding
the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M8 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M8 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M8 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M8 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M8 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 22 Nm (16 lb ft).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is not accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6
conductive rivet stud and a M6 conductive nut
may be used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the M6 conductive rivet stud flange.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the repair site
and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For
Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8933
5. Remove paint and primer from the area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) until bare metal is
visible.
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
6. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
7. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
8. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 9. Ensure the new rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement.
10. Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For
Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8934
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the electrical ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable
and corrosion-free electrical ground.
11. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 12. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 13. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 14. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 15. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
16. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 17. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M6 conductive rivet stud. 18.
Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 19. Install the M6
conductive nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in)
20. Verify proper system operation.
Parts Information
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For
Electrical Ground Repair > Page 8935
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 06-08-45-004 > May > 06 > Electrical - Instrument Panel
& General Wiring Repair
Wiring Harness: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Instrument Panel & General Wiring
Repair
Bulletin No.: 06-08-45-004
Date: May 02, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Instrument Panel (I/P), Body and General Wiring Harness Repair
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Trucks 2003-2007 HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3
Important:
A part restriction has been implemented on all Body and I/P harnesses and is being administered
by the PQC. If a body or I/P harness replacement is required, it can take 12-28 weeks for a
harness to be built and delivered to a dealer. The dealer technician is expected to repair any
harness damage as the first and best choice before replacing a harness.
In an effort to standardize repair practices, General Motors is requiring that all wiring harnesses be
repaired instead of replaced. If there is a question concerning which connector and/or terminal you
are working on, refer to the information in the appropriate Connector End Views in SI. The
Instruction Manual J 38125-620, which is sent with each new update of the J 38125 Terminal
Repair Kit, also has terminal crimping and terminal remove information.
Important:
There are some parts in the J 38125 Terminal Repair Kit (i.e. SIR connector CPAs and heat shrink
tube (used in high heat area pigtail replacement) and some TPAs that are not available from
GMSPO. It is vitally important that each update to the J 38125 Terminal Repair Kit be done as soon
as it arrives at the dealer.
Utilize the Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125) to achieve an effective wiring repair. The Terminal Repair
Kit has been an essential tool for all GM Dealers since 1987. Replacement terminals and tools for
this kit are available through SPX/Kent Moore. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 06-08-45-001
for more information.
The Instruction Manual J 38125-620, which is sent with each new update to the J 38125 Terminal
Repair Kit, also has terminal crimping and terminal removal information.
U.S. Dealers Only - Training courses (including Tech Assists, Emerging Issues, Web, IDL and
Hands-on) are available through the GM Training website. Refer to Resources and then Training
Materials for a complete list of available courses.
Canadian Dealers Only - Refer to the Training section of GM infoNet for a complete list of available
courses and a copy of the J 38125 Terminal Repair Kit Instruction Manual.
Wiring repair information is also available in Service Information (SI). The Wiring Repair section
contains information for the following types of wiring repairs:
- Testing for intermittent conditions and poor conditions
- Flat wire repairs
- GMLAN wiring repairs
- High temperature wiring repairs
- Splicing copper wire using splice clips
- Splicing copper wire using splice sleeves
- Splicing twisted or shielded cable
- Splicing inline harness diodes
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Wiring Harness > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 06-08-45-004 > May > 06 > Electrical - Instrument Panel
& General Wiring Repair > Page 8940
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications
Alignment: Technical Service Bulletins Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Bulletin No.: 05-03-07-009C
Date: December 09, 2010
Subject: Wheel Alignment Specifications, Requirements and Recommendations for GM Vehicles
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being extensively revised to provide technicians and warranty
administrators with an all inclusive guide for wheel alignments. PLEASE FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF
WITH THESE UPDATES BEFORE PERFORMING YOUR NEXT GM WHEEL ALIGNMENT
SERVICE. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-03-07-009B (Section 03 - Suspension).
Purpose
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide retail, wholesale and fleet personnel with General Motors'
warranty service requirements and recommendations for customer concerns related to wheel
alignment. For your convenience, this bulletin updates and centralizes all of GM's Standard Wheel
Alignment Service Procedures, Policy Guidelines and bulletins on wheel alignment warranty
service.
Important PLEASE FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF WITH THESE UPDATES BEFORE PERFORMING
YOUR NEXT GM WHEEL ALIGNMENT SERVICE.
The following five (5) key steps are a summary of this bulletin and are REQUIRED in completing a
successful wheel alignment service.
1. Verify the vehicle is in an Original Equipment condition for curb weight, tires, wheels, suspension
and steering configurations. Vehicles
modified in any of these areas are not covered for wheel alignment warranty.
2. Review the customer concern relative to "Normal Operation" definitions. 3. Verify that vehicle is
within the "Mileage Policy" range. 4. Document wheel alignment warranty claims appropriately for
labor operations E2000 and E2020.
The following information must be documented or attached to the repair order:
- Customer concern in detail
- What corrected the customer concern?
- If a wheel alignment is performed:
- Consult SI for proper specifications.
- Document the "Before" AND "After" wheel alignment measurements/settings.
- Completed "Wheel Alignment Repair Order Questionnaire" (form attached to this bulletin)
5. Use the proper wheel alignment equipment (preferred with print-out capability), process and the
appropriate calibration maintenance schedules.
Important If it is determined that a wheel alignment is necessary under warranty, use the proper
labor code for the repair. E2000 for Steering Wheel Angle and/or Front Toe set or E2020 for Wheel
Alignment Check/Adjust includes Caster, Camber and Toe set (Wheel alignment labor time for
other component repairs is to be charged to the component that causes a wheel alignment
operation.).
The following flowchart is to help summarize the information detailed in this bulletin and should be
used whenever a wheel alignment is performed.
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Verify Original Equipment Condition of the Vehicle
- Verify that Original Equipment Tires and Wheels or Official GM Accessory Tires and Wheels are
on the vehicle.
- Verify that aftermarket suspension "Lift" or "Lowering" Kits or other suspension alterations have
NOT been done to the vehicle.
- Check for accidental damage to the vehicle; for example, severe pothole or curb impacts, collision
damage that may have affected the wheel alignment of the vehicle; e.g., engine cradles,
suspension control arms, axles, wheels, wheel covers, tires may show evidence of damage/impact.
- Check to be sure vehicle has seen "Normal Use" rather than abuse; e.g., very aggressive driving
may show up by looking at the tires and condition of the vehicle.
- Check for other additional equipment items that may significantly affect vehicle mass such as
large tool boxes, campers, snow plow packages (without the snowplow RPO), etc., especially in
trucks and cutaway/incomplete vehicles. Significant additional mass can affect trim height and
wheel alignment of the vehicle and may necessitate a customer pay wheel alignment when placed
semi-permanently in the vehicle (Upfitter instructions are to realign the vehicle after placement of
these types of items. (This typically applies to trucks and incomplete vehicles that can be upfit with
equipment such as the above.)
Customer Concerns, "Normal Operation" Conditions and "Mileage Policy"
Possible Concerns
The following are typical conditions that may require wheel alignment warranty service:
1. Lead/Pull: defined as "at a constant highway speed on a typical straight road, the amount of
effort required at the steering wheel to maintain the
vehicle's straight heading."
Important Please evaluate for the condition with hands-on the steering wheel. Follow the "Vehicle
Leads/Pulls" diagnostic tree located in SI to determine the cause of a lead/pull concern. Lead/Pull
concerns can be due to road crown or road slope, tires, wheel alignment or even in rare
circumstances a steering gear issue. Lead/pull concerns due to road crown are considered
"Normal Operation" and are NOT a warrantable condition -- the customer should be advised that
this is "Normal Operation."
Important Some customers may comment on a "Lead/Pull" when they hold the steering wheel in a
level condition. If so, this is more likely a "steering wheel angle" concern because the customer is
"steering" the vehicle to obtain a "level" steering wheel.
2. Steering wheel angle to the left or right (counter-clockwise or clockwise, respectively): Defined
as the steering wheel angle (clocking)
deviation from "level" while maintaining a straight heading on a typical straight road.
3. Irregular or Premature tire wear: Slight to very slight "feathering" or "edge" wear on the
shoulders of tires is NOT considered unusual and
should even out with a tire rotation; if the customer is concerned about a "feathering" condition of
the tires, the customer could be advised to rotate the tires earlier than the next scheduled
mileage/maintenance interval (but no later than the next interval). Be sure to understand the
customer's driving habits as this will also heavily influence the tire wear performance; tire wear from
aggressive or abusive driving habits is NOT a warrantable condition.
Important Slight or mild feathering, cupping, edge or heel/toe wear of tire tread shoulders is
"normal" and can show up very early in a tire/vehicle service mileage; in fact, some new tires can
show evidence of feathering from the factory. These issues do NOT affect the overall performance
and tread life of the tire. Dealer personnel should always check the customer's maintenance
records to ensure that tire inflation pressure is being maintained to placard and that the tires are
being rotated (modified-X pattern) at the proper mileage intervals. Wheel alignments are NOT to be
performed for the types of "Normal" Tire Feathering shown in Figures 1-4 below.
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Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications > Page 8947
Figure 1: Full Tread View - "NORMAL" Tire "Feathering" Wear on the Shoulder/Adjacent/Center
Ribs
Figure 2: Tire Shoulder View Example 1 - "NORMAL" Tire "Feathering" Wear on the Shoulder
Figure 3: Tire Shoulder View Example 2 - "NORMAL" Tire "Feathering" Wear
Figure 4: Detail Side View of Tire Shoulder Area - "NORMAL" Tire "Feathering" Wear
Important When a wheel alignment is deemed necessary for tire wear, be sure to document on the
repair order, in as much detail as possible, the severity and type of tire wear (e.g., severe center
wear or severe inside or outside shoulder wear) and the position of the tire on the vehicle (RF, LF,
LR, RR). Please note the customer's concern with the wear such as, noise, appearance, wear life,
etc. A field product report with pictures of the tire wear condition is recommended. Refer to
Corporate Bulletin Number 02-00-89-002J and #07-00-89-036C.
4. Other repairs that affect wheel alignment; e.g., certain component replacement such as
suspension control arm replacement, engine cradle
adjustment/replace, steering gear replacement, steering tie rod replace, suspension strut/shock,
steering knuckle, etc. may require a wheel alignment.
Important If other components or repairs are identified as affecting the wheel alignment, policy calls
for the wheel alignment labor time to be charged to the replaced/repaired component's labor
operation time rather than the wheel alignment labor operations.
Important Vibration type customer concerns are generally NOT due to wheel alignment except in
the rare cases; e.g., extreme diagonal wear across the tread. In general, wheel alignments are
NOT to be performed as an investigation/correction for vibration concerns.
"Normal Operation" Conditions
Vehicle Lead/Pull Due to Road Crown or Slope:
As part of "Normal Operation," vehicles will follow side-to-side or left to right road crown or slope.
Be sure to verify from the customer the types of roads they are driving as they may not recognize
the influence of road crown on vehicle lead/pull and steering wheel angle. If a vehicle requires
significant steering effort to prevent it from "climbing" the road crown there may be an issue to be
looked into further.
Important
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Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications > Page 8948
A wheel alignment will generally NOT correct vehicles that follow the road crown since this is within
"Normal Operation."
Mileage Policy
The following mileage policy applies for E2020 and E2000 labor operations: Note
Wheel Alignment is NOT covered under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty for Express and Savana
Cutaway vehicles as these vehicles require Upfitters to set the wheel alignment after completing
the vehicles.
- 0-800 km (0-500 mi): E2000/E2020 claims ONLY allowed with Call Center Authorization. Due to
the tie down during shipping, the vehicle's suspension requires some time to reach normal
operating position. For this reason, new vehicles are generally NOT to be aligned until they have
accumulated at least 800 km (500 mi). A field product report should accompany any claim within
this mileage range.
- 801-12,000 km (501-7,500 mi):
- If a vehicle came from the factory with incorrect alignment settings, any resulting off-angle
steering wheel, lead/pull characteristics or the rare occurrence of excessive tire wear would be
apparent early in the life of the vehicle. The following policy applies:
- Vehicles 100% Factory Set/Measured for Caster/Camber/Toe - Escalade/ESV/EXT,
Tahoe/Suburban, Yukon/XL/Denali, Silverado/Sierra, Express/Savana, Corvette and
Colorado/Canyon: E2000/E2020 Claims: Call Center Authorization Required
- All Vehicles NOT 100% Factory Set/Measured for Caster/Camber/Toe as noted above:
E2000/E2020 Claims: Dealer Service Manager Authorization Required
- 12,001 km and beyond (7,501 miles and beyond): During this period, customers are responsible
for the wheel alignment expense or dealers may provide on a case-by case basis a one-time
customer enthusiasm claim up to 16,000 km (10,000 mi). In the event that a defective component
required the use of the subject labor operations, the identified defective component labor operation
will include the appropriate labor time for a wheel alignment as an add condition to the component
repair.
Important Only one wheel alignment labor operation claim (E2000 or E2020) may be used per VIN.
Warranty Documentation Requirements
When a wheel alignment service has been deemed necessary, the following items will need to be
clearly documented on/with the repair order:
- Customer concern in detail
- What corrected the customer concern?
- If a wheel alignment is performed:
- Consult SI for proper specifications.
- Document the "Before" AND "After" wheel alignment measurements/settings.
- Completed "Wheel Alignment Repair Order Questionnaire" (form attached to this bulletin)
1. Document the customer concern in as much detail as possible on the repair order and in the
warranty administration system. Preferred examples:
- Steering wheel is off angle in the counterclockwise direction by approximately x degrees or
clocking position.
- Vehicle lead/pulls to the right at approximately x-y mph. Vehicle will climb the road crown. Severe,
Moderate or Slight.
- RF and LF tires are wearing on the outside shoulders with severe feathering.
Important In the event of a lead/pull or steering wheel angle concern, please note the direction of
lead/pull (left or right) or direction of steering wheel angle (clockwise or counterclockwise) on the
repair order and within the warranty claim verbatim.
Important In the event of a tire wear concern, please note the position on the vehicle and where the
wear is occurring on the tire; i.e., the RF tire is wearing on the inside shoulder.
2. Document the technician's findings on cause and correction of the issue. Examples:
- Reset LF toe from 0.45 degrees to 0.10 degrees and RF toe from -0.25 degrees to 0.10 degrees
to correct the steering wheel angle from 5 degrees counterclockwise to 0 degrees.
- Reset LF camber from 0.25 degrees to -0.05 degrees to correct the cross-camber condition of
+0.30 degrees to 0.00 degrees on the vehicle.
- Front Sum toe was found to be 0.50 degrees, reset to 0.20 degrees.
3. Print-out the "Before" and "After" wheel alignment measurements/settings and attach them to the
Repair Order or if print-out capability is not
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications > Page 8949
available, measurements may also be clearly and legibly handwritten into the Wheel Alignment
Repair Order Questionnaire attached to this bulletin.
4. Attach the Wheel Alignment Repair Order Questionnaire below along with the print-out of
"Before" and "After" wheel alignment measurements to
the Repair Order and retain for use by GM.
Wheel Alignment Equipment and Process
Wheel alignments must be performed with a quality machine that will give accurate results when
performing checks. "External Reference" (image-based camera technology) is preferred. Please
refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 05-00-89-029B: General Motors Dealership Critical Equipment
Requirements and Recommendations.
Requirements:
- Computerized four wheel alignment system.
- Computer capable of printing before and after alignment reports.
- Computer capable of time and date stamp printout.
- Racking system must have jacking capability
- Racking system must be capable of level to 1.6 mm (1/16 in)
- Appropriate wheel stops and safety certification
- Built-in turn plates and slip plates
- Wheel clamps capable of attaching to 20" or larger wheels
- Racking capable of accepting any GM passenger car or light duty truck
- Operator properly trained and ASE-certified (U.S. only) in wheel alignment
Recommendations:
Racking should have front and rear jacking capability.
Equipment Maintenance and Calibration:
Alignment machines must be regularly calibrated in order to give correct information. Most
manufacturers recommend the following:
- Alignment machines with "internal reference" sensors should be checked (and calibrated, if
necessary) every six months.
- Alignment machines with "external reference" (image-based camera technology) should be
checked (and calibrated, if necessary) once a year.
- Racks must be kept level to within 1.6 mm (1/16 in).
- If any instrument that is part of the alignment machine is dropped or damaged in some way,
check the calibration immediately.
Check with the manufacturer of your specific equipment for their recommended service/calibration
schedule.
Wheel Alignment Process
When performing wheel alignment measurement and/or adjustment, the following steps should be
taken:
Preliminary Steps:
1. Verify that the vehicle has a full tank of fuel (compensate as necessary). 2. Inspect the wheels
and the tires for damage. 3. Inspect the tires for the proper inflation and irregular tire wear. 4.
Inspect the wheel bearings for excessive play. 5. Inspect all suspension and steering parts for
looseness, wear, or damage. 6. Inspect the steering wheel for excessive drag or poor return due to
stiff or rusted linkage or suspension components. 7. Inspect the vehicle trim height. 8. Compensate
for frame angle on targeted vehicles (refer to Wheel Alignment Specifications in SI).
Satisfactory vehicle operation may occur over a wide range of alignment angles. However, if the
wheel alignment angles are not within the range of specifications, adjust the wheel alignment to the
specifications. Refer to Wheel Alignment Specifications in SI. Give consideration to excess loads,
such as tool boxes, sample cases, etc. Follow the wheel alignment equipment manufacturer's
instructions.
Measure/Adjust:
Important Prior to making any adjustments to wheel alignment on a vehicle, technicians must verify
that the wheel alignment specifications loaded into their wheel alignment machine are up-to-date
by comparing these to the wheel alignment specifications for the appropriate model and model year
in SI. Using incorrect and/or outdated specifications may result in unnecessary adjustments,
irregular and/or premature tire wear and repeat customer concerns
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Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications > Page 8950
Important When performing adjustments to vehicles requiring a 4-wheel alignment, set the rear
wheel alignment angles first in order to obtain proper front wheel alignment angles.
Perform the following steps in order to measure the front and rear alignment angles:
1. Install the alignment equipment according to the manufacturer's instructions. 2. Jounce the front
and the rear bumpers 3 times prior to checking the wheel alignment. 3. Measure the alignment
angles and record the readings.
If necessary, adjust the wheel alignment to vehicle specification and record the before and after
measurements. Refer to Wheel Alignment Specifications in SI.
Important Technicians must refer to SI for the correct wheel alignment specifications. SI is the only
source of GM wheel alignment specifications that is kept up-to-date throughout the year.
Test drive vehicle to ensure proper repair.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications > Page 8951
Frame Angle Measurement (Express / Savana Only) ........
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Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications > Page 8952
What corrected the customer concern and was the repair verified?
Please Explain: .............
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Specifications > Vehicle Ride
(Trim) Height Specifications
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Specifications > Vehicle Ride
(Trim) Height Specifications > Page 8955
Alignment: Specifications Alignment Specifications
Cross Camber:*
Alignment .............................................................................................................................................
..................................................................... 0.00° Tolerance .............................................................
....................................................................................................................................................
±1.00°
Cross Caster:
Alignment .............................................................................................................................................
..................................................................... 0.00° Tolerance .............................................................
....................................................................................................................................................
±1.00°
Front Camber:
Alignment .............................................................................................................................................
.................................................................... -0.20° Tolerance .............................................................
....................................................................................................................................................
±1.00°
Front Caster:
Alignment .............................................................................................................................................
................................................................... +4.30° Tolerance .............................................................
....................................................................................................................................................
±1.00°
Individual Toe:**
Alignment .............................................................................................................................................
................................................................... +0.05° Tolerance .............................................................
....................................................................................................................................................
±0.12°
Rear Camber:
Alignment .............................................................................................................................................
.................................................................... -0.40° Tolerance .............................................................
....................................................................................................................................................
±0.50°
Rear Sum Toe:
Alignment .............................................................................................................................................
..................................................................... 0.00° Tolerance .............................................................
....................................................................................................................................................
±0.20°
Rear Thrust Angle:
Alignment .............................................................................................................................................
..................................................................... 0.00° Tolerance .............................................................
....................................................................................................................................................
±0.20°
Sum Toe:
Alignment .............................................................................................................................................
................................................................... +0.10° Tolerance .............................................................
....................................................................................................................................................
±0.25°
* Slight Cross Camber specification differences can be made when servicing vehicle for steering
pull.
** Measure the above Toe angles with steering wheel at level position, visually aligned with
column.
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Alignment: Specifications Torque Specifications
Strut To Knuckle Nuts ..........................................................................................................................
................................................ 180 Nm (133 ft. lbs.) Tie Rod Jam Nut
................................................................................................................................................... 210°
Rotation After 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.)
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Alignment: Service Precautions
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for the application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener tightening specification and the
joint clamping force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct
tightening sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to
parts and systems.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation >
Definition of Terms
Alignment: Description and Operation Definition of Terms
Camber
Camber is the tilting of the front wheels from the vertical when viewed from the front of the vehicle.
When the wheels tilt outward at the top, the camber is "positive" (+). When the wheels tilt inward at
the top, the camber is "negative" (-). The amount of tilt is measured in degrees from the vertical.
Camber setting will influence directional control and tire wear.
Caster
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Definition of Terms > Page 8960
Caster is the tilting of the front steering axis (at the top) either forward or backward from the
vertical. A backward tilt is "positive" (+) and a forward tilt is "negative" (-). Caster influences
directional control of the steering but does not affect tire wear.
Caster is affected by vehicle height, therefore it is important to keep the body at its designed
height. Overloading the vehicle or a weak or sagging rear spring will affect the caster. When the
rear of the vehicle is lower than its designated trim height, the front suspension moves to a more
"positive" caster. If the rear of the vehicle is higher than its designated trim height, the front
suspension moves to a less "positive" caster.
Toe-In
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Definition of Terms > Page 8961
Toe is a measurement of how much the front of the wheels are turned in or out from a
straight-ahead position. When the wheels are turned in, toe is "positive" (+). When the wheels are
turned out, toe is "negative" (-). The actual amount of toe is normally only a fraction of a degree.
The purpose of toe is to ensure that the wheels roll parallel.
Toe also serves to offset the small deflections of the wheel support system which occurs when the
vehicle is rolling forward. In other words, even when the wheels are set to toe in or out slightly
when the vehicle is standing still, they tend to roll parallel on the road when the vehicle is moving.
Toe affects tire wear.
Thrust Angle
The front wheels aim or steer the vehicle, but the rear wheels control tracking. This tracking action
is relative to thrust angle. Thrust angle is defined as the path that the rear wheels will take. Ideally,
the thrust angle is geometrically aligned with the body centerline.
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Definition of Terms > Page 8962
Alignment: Description and Operation General Description
Wheel alignment refers to the angular relationship between the wheels, control arms, suspension
and the ground. When measured, the vehicle should have a full fuel tank, no passengers, and with
no other loading or items in the trunk or passengers compartment.
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Page 8963
Alignment: Testing and Inspection
Some degree of torque steer to the right may normally be experienced during heavy throttle
application on some front-wheel-drive vehicles that do not have equal length drive axles. This is
due to the right drive axle being longer than the left axle and associated difference in axle angle.
Vehicles with intermediate shaft assemblies have almost equal length axles.
A difference in axle length results in more torque toe-in effect to the left front wheel. This condition
can be noticed when accelerating from a standing start or at lower speeds. A simple measurement
to determine the degree of torque steer is to place a small piece of tape at the top center of the
steering wheel. Drive the vehicle and note the inches of steering wheel deflection required to steer
the vehicle straight under heavy acceleration. A comparison of like vehicles will then determine if a
particular vehicle has a greater than normal degree of torque steer. The following factors may
cause torque steer to be more apparent on a particular vehicle: ^
Large difference in right and left front tire pressure.
^ A slightly smaller diameter tire on the right front will increase a right torque lead. Inspect front
tires for difference in brand, construction, or size. If the tires appear similar, change the front tires
side to side and re-test the vehicle. Tire and wheel assemblies have the most significant effect on
torque steer correction.
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Page 8964
^ Any looseness in control arm bushings, tie rod assemblies or steering gear mounting which
permits a front wheel to pull forward and toe-in under torque more than the opposite side. A loose
suspension component may also result in an opposite lead on deceleration.
^ High front trim height which would increase drive axle angle.
^ Binding or tight drive axle joint. A tight joint or high front trim height may also exhibit a wobble
condition between 24 and 48 km/h (15 and 30 mph).
^ Incorrect, worn, or loose engine mounts causing adverse drive axle angles.
^ Unequal Engine/Transmission height from the left side to the right side of vehicle. If difference
from side to side is more than 6 mm (17/64 inch), change trim heights by installing a stronger
spring in the side which is lower, or a weaker spring in the side which is shorter than the specified
"Z" heights. Replace only, do not shim engine mounts as this may cause other symptoms.
^ On occasion, side-to-side trim height differences may be the result of a faulty stabilizer shaft. To
check this disconnect the stabilizer links, re-measure trim heights. If the side-to-side difference is
corrected, replace the stabilizer shaft. If there is no change in trim height do not change the
stabilizer shaft. A trim height difference of more than 6 mm (17/64 inch), indicates a possible bent,
stabilizer shaft, attaching links, or a bent suspension component that may need replacement.
The following conditions affect vehicle handling and/or a constant right or left lead separate from
torque steer causes. The existence of one or more of These conditions may compound a torque
steer complaint. ^
Incorrect front-wheel alignment or a rear-wheel alignment condition which would cause the vehicle
to not track straight. A difference in the front wheel to rear wheel measurement compared side to
side may indicate a "dog track" condition or one front wheel ahead of the other due to a
misalignment or other condition. A substantial caster difference is an indication of misalignment or
other condition. Front-wheel caster should be equal or within specifications and camber may be
biased slightly to offset a lead condition.
^ Suspension support misalignment.
^ Front suspension damage, such as a bent strut.
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Preliminary Inspection
Alignment: Service and Repair Preliminary Inspection
Steering and ride complaints are not always the result of improper alignment. Another possibility is
tire "lead" due to worn or improperly manufactured tires. "Lead" is the vehicle's deviation from a
straight path on a level road without pressure on the steering wheel. Refer to STEERING,
SUSPENSION, TIRE AND WHEELS DIAGNOSIS, for the procedure to determine if the vehicle has
a lead problem.
Before making any adjustment affecting wheel alignment, make the following inspections to ensure
correct alignment readings and alignment adjustments. Inspect: ^
All tires for proper inflation pressures. Also check that tires have about the same tread wear.
^ Hub and bearing assemblies for excessive wear; correct if necessary. Refer to STEERING,
SUSPENSION, TIRE AND WHEELS DIAGNOSIS.
^ Ball joints and tie rod ends; if they are loose, correct them before adjusting. Refer to FRONT
SUSPENSION.
^ Run-out of wheels and tires.
^ Vehicle trim height. If out of limits and a correction is to be made, do so before adjusting
alignment. Refer to STEERING, SUSPENSION, TIRE AND WHEELS DIAGNOSIS for trim height
chart.
^ Strut dampeners for proper operation.
^ Control arms for loose bushings.
^ Stabilizer shaft for loose or missing parts.
^ Suspension and steering components for damage and replace parts as necessary.
Consideration must be given to excess loads, such as tool boxes, sample cases, etc. If these items
are normally carried in the vehicle, they should remain in the vehicle during alignment adjustments.
Loads such as these should be centered in the vehicle whenever possible to minimize their effects
Consideration should also be given to the condition of the equipment being used to adjust
alignment. Be sure to follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. Regardless of the
equipment used to adjust alignment, the vehicle must be on a level surface, both fore-and-aft and
sideways.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair >
Preliminary Inspection > Page 8967
Alignment: Service and Repair Ride/Trim Height Measurement and Adjustment
Vehicle Ride Height Measurement Locations
Prior to measuring vehicle trim height, prepare the vehicle as follows: 1. Check to be sure that:
A. The fuel gage reads full. B. The spare tire and tools are properly located. C. The vehicle is free
of ice, snow and mud accumulations.
2. Set front and rear tire pressure to within plus or minus 20 kPa (3 psi) of recommended pressure
shown on tire placard. If two load conditions are
shown on placard, use the lower load condition.
3. Close engine compartment hood and all doors. 4. Up tow kg (15.5 lbs.) may be left in trunk if it is
located approximately on vehicle centerline. Remove items necessary to meet this requirement. 5.
Measure the vehicle trim height as follows:
^ "Z" and "J" Dimensions: Lift front bumper of vehicle up approximately 38.0 mm (1 1/2 in). Gently
remove hands and let vehicle settle. Repeat twice for a total of 3 times. Measure "Z" and "J"
dimensions. Push front bumper down approximately 38.0 mm (1 1/2 inch). Gently repeat twice for a
total of 3 times. Measure "Z" and "J" dimensions. True heights are the average of the high and low
measurements.
^ "K" Dimension: Lift rear bumper of vehicle up approximately 38.0 mm (1 1/2 inch). Gently remove
hands and let vehicle settle. Repeat twice for a total of 3 times. Measure "K" dimension. Push rear
bumper down approximately 38.0 mm (1 1/2 inch). Gently remove hand and let vehicle rise omits
own. Repeat twice for a total of 3 times. Measure "K" dimension. True heights are the average of
the high and low measurements.
Trim Height Measurements
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair >
Preliminary Inspection > Page 8968
Prior to measuring vehicle trim height, prepare the vehicle as follows: 1. Check to be sure that:
A. The fuel gage reads full. B. The spare tire and tools are properly located. C. The vehicle is free
of ice, snow and mud accumulations.
2. Set front and rear tire pressure to within plus or minus 20 kPa (3 psi) of recommended pressure
shown on tire placard. If two load conditions are
shown on placard, use the lower load condition.
3. Close engine compartment hood and all doors. 4. Up tow kg (15.5 lbs.) may be left in trunk if it is
located approximately on vehicle centerline. Remove items necessary to meet this requirement. 5.
Measure the vehicle trim height as follows:
^ "Z" and "J" Dimensions: Lift front bumper of vehicle up approximately 38.0 mm (1 1/2 in). Gently
remove hands and let vehicle settle. Repeat twice for a total of 3 times. Measure "Z" and "J"
dimensions. Push front bumper down approximately 38.0 mm (1 1/2 inch). Gently repeat twice for a
total of 3 times. Measure "Z" and "J" dimensions. True heights are the average of the high and low
measurements.
^ "K" Dimension: Lift rear bumper of vehicle up approximately 38.0 mm (1 1/2 inch). Gently remove
hands and let vehicle settle. Repeat twice for a total of 3 times. Measure "K" dimension. Push rear
bumper down approximately 38.0 mm (1 1/2 inch). Gently remove hand and let vehicle rise omits
own. Repeat twice for a total of 3 times. Measure "K" dimension. True heights are the average of
the high and low measurements.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair >
Preliminary Inspection > Page 8969
Alignment: Service and Repair Front Wheel Alignment
Measuring Front Alignment Angles
Important: ^
Install alignment equipment following equipment manufacturer's instructions.
^ Jounce front and rear bumpers three times to normalize suspension prior to measuring angles.
^ Measure alignment angles and record the readings. If adjustments are necessary, make them in
the following order: 1. Camber. 2. Toe.
Front Caster Adjustment
Caster is not adjustable. If the caster angle is not within specifications, inspect for suspension
support misalignment or front suspension damage. Replace parts as necessary. Refer to Body and
Frame for measurement points to determine proper underbody alignment.
Front Camber Adjustment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair >
Preliminary Inspection > Page 8970
Important: When camber adjustment is necessary, refer to FRONT SUSPENSION for instructions
on modifying the front strut.
DISASSEMBLE
^ Loosen both strut to knuckle nuts just enough to allow movement.
^ Adjust camber to specification by moving top of wheel in or out.
^ Tighten strut to knuckle nuts to 180 Nm (133 ft. lbs.).
Front Toe Adjustment
DISASSEMBLE
1. Be sure steering wheel is set in a straight ahead position within +/- 5 °. 2. Loosen jam nut.
^ Adjust toe to specification by turning adjuster.
^ Tighten jam nut to 210 ° rotation after 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair >
Preliminary Inspection > Page 8971
Alignment: Service and Repair Rear Wheel Alignment
After front wheel alignment has been completed the rear alignment angles should be checked if
there is excessive rear tire wear or wheels do not track properly. Rear wheels should be parallel to
and the same distance from the vehicles centerline.
If tires do not track correctly after a front wheel alignment, no amount of adjustment will correct the
problem. Poor tracking or excessive rear tire wear after a front wheel alignment usually indicates
that the axle housing, frame, or suspension arms have been bent. Refer to Specifications for rear
alignment angles.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Steering - Various Revised Tightening Specifications
Front Steering Knuckle: Technical Service Bulletins Steering - Various Revised Tightening
Specifications
CHEVROLET 73-32-03A
Issued: 05/01/97
SMU - SECTIONS 3B/3C/4D
REVISION: 04/11/97
THIS BULLETIN IS BEING REVISED TO UPDATE THE DRIVE AXLE NUT TIGHTENING
SPECIFICATIONS FOR THE N CAR. PLEASE DISCARD CORPORATE BULLETIN NUMBER
73-32-03 (SECTION 3 - STEERING/SUSPENSION).
SUBJECT: SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE - SECTIONS 3B/3C/4D - REVISED TIGHTENING
SPECIFICATIONS
MODELS: 1997 CHEVROLET CAVALIER, MALIBU 1997 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS 1997
PONTIAC SUNFIRE
THIS BULLETIN IS BEING ISSUED TO REVISE THE TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS IN
SECTIONS 3B, 3C AND 4D OF THE SERVICE MANUAL AS FOLLOWS:
J CAR
SECTIONS 3B-8, 3B-9, 3C-5 AND 3C-13:
THE CORRECT TIGHTENING SPECIFICATION IS AS FOLLOWS:
- TIE ROD END TO KNUCKLE NUT 20 N.M (15 LB FT) PLUS 90 DEGREE ROTATION.
N CAR
SECTIONS 3C-6 AND 3C-16:
THE CORRECT TIGHTENING SPECIFICATION IS AS FOLLOWS:
- TIE ROD END TO KNUCKLE NUT 20 N.M (15 LB FT) PLUS 180 DEGREE ROTATION.
SECTION 3B-12:
THE CORRECT TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS ARE AS FOLLOWS:
- STEERING COLUMN LOWER PINCH BOLT 22 N.M (16 LB FT)
- STEERING COLUMN UPPER PINCH BOLT 22 N.M (16 LB FT)
SECTIONS 3C-16, 4D-4 AND 4D-5:
THE CORRECT TIGHTENING SPECIFICATION IS AS FOLLOWS:
- FRONT DRIVE AXLE NUT 385 N.M (284 LB FT) +/- 5 N.M (44 LB IN). REPLACE THE DRIVE
AXLE NUT WITH A NEW ONE AFTER EVERY REMOVAL. NEVER RE-USE THE DRIVE AXLE
NUT.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Steering - Various Revised Tightening Specifications > Page 8977
Front Steering Knuckle: Technical Service Bulletins Brake Pad/Caliper/Knuckle - Inspect &
Maintenance
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 63-50-19
Date: January, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Inspection/Maintenance Procedure for Restricted Movement between Brake Pad and
Caliper and/or Knuckle
Models: 1990.5
Buick Electra
1991-1996 Buick Park Avenue
1991-1997 Buick LeSabre, Skylark
1990-1992 Cadillac Fleetwood
1990-1996 Cadillac DeVille
1992 Cadillac Sixty Special
1992-1996 Cadillac Eldorado, Seville
1994-1996 Cadillac Concours
1992-1996 Chevrolet Beretta, Cavalier, Corsica, Lumina APV
1993.5-1997 Chevrolet Camaro
1997 Chevrolet Malibu
1990.5-1996 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight
1991 Oldsmobile Calais
1991-1997 Oldsmobile Eighty Eight
1992 Oldsmobile Toronado
1992-1996 Oldsmobile Silhouette
1992-1997 Oldsmobile Achieva
1996-1997 Oldsmobile LSS, Regency
1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
1991-1997 Pontiac Bonneville, Grand Am
1992-1994 Pontiac Sunbird
1992-1996 Pontiac Trans Sport
1993.5-1997 Pontiac Firebird
1995-1996 Pontiac Sunfire
Customer Service Notes
Your customers should be made aware of the maintenance requirements of their vehicle. These
owner responsibilities are described and listed in the Owner's Manual under Periodic Maintenance
Inspections. (Example: brake linings, Tire and Wheel Inspection and Rotation are owner
maintenance.)
Some of the above listed vehicles may exhibit restricted movement between the brake pad and the
caliper and/or knuckle.
Movement may be restricted by:
a. Debris, build-up, or
b. Corrosion
If the pads do not have free movement within the caliper and/or knuckle, one or both pad(s) may
remain against the rotor. This may lead to the following:
a. Early pad wear-out
b. Rotor thickness variation (may result in pulsation)
c. Rotor damage it not corrected in time.
The following procedure should be used to inspect for and correct restricted pad movement:
Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Steering - Various Revised Tightening Specifications > Page 8978
1. Move wheel and tire from vehicle.
2. Move the piston into the caliper bore using a C-clamp (Kent-Moore tool # J 42588 or equivalent).
Refer to Figure 1.
Notice:
Use care to avoid permanently bending the anti-rattle clips on the outboard brake pad, 5 mm (1/8
inch) is sufficient.
3. Check the outer brake pad for freedom of movement relative to the knuckle abutment. Refer to
Figure 2.
Important:
The brake pads must move easily within the knuckle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Steering - Various Revised Tightening Specifications > Page 8979
4. Using hands, push the caliper in as far as possible. The lining should retract with the
piston/caliper housing. Refer to Figure 3.
5. Check the inner brake pad for freedom of movement relative to the knuckle abutment. Refer to
Figure 3.
6. Repeat this procedure for the other side of the vehicle.
7. If all pads move freely, go to Step # 7 under "Correction" and install the wheels and tires. If
movement is restricted, proceed with Step # 1 under "Correction."
Correction
If restricted pad movement is noted on one or more calipers, perform the following "clean and
lubricate" procedure.
1. Remove the brake pads from the caliper.
2. Remove all debris and corrosion from the knuckle using a wire brush at any points where the
brake pads come in contact with the knuckle and/or caliper. If the corrosion is severe, use a
scraper first. Refer to Figure 4.
3. Using a wire brush/scraper, remove all debris and corrosion from the brake pad metal backing
shoe in the areas where the shoes contact the
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Steering - Various Revised Tightening Specifications > Page 8980
knuckle and/or the caliper. Refer to Figures 2 and 3.
4. Coat all areas of the knuckle and/or caliper where the brake pad shoes contact using a high
temperature silicone grease, P/N 18010909 or equivalent. Refer to Figure 4.
5. Install the brake pads and caliper on the vehicle.
6. Repeat Steps 1 - 5 on the other caliper brake assembly. If one caliper needs service, do both
sides.
7. Reinstall wheels and tires on the vehicle.
Important:
Evenly torque wheel nuts to specification using a torque wrench or a torque limiting socket/stick.
A torque wrench or torque stick must be used to insure that wheel nuts are tightened to
specification. This should be done in three steps using the star pattern. First, snug the nuts down
by hand. Second, using the star pattern and a torque stick/wrench, tighten the wheel nuts to about
half the final torque. Third, tighten the wheel nuts to specification using the star pattern and a
torque stick/wrench. Use the same amount of impact wrench operating time as would normally be
used without a torque stick.
8. Pump the brake pedal as many times as required to obtain a firm brake pedal.
Caution:
DO NOT move the vehicle until a firm brake pedal is obtained. Failure to obtain a firm brake pedal
before moving vehicle may result in personal injury.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service
Front Steering Knuckle: Service and Repair On-Vehicle Service
^ Tools Required: J 38892 Ball Joint Separator
- J 28733-A Front Hub Spindle Remover
- Or Equivalents
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Hub and bearing assembly. 2. Bolts attaching steering knuckle to strut. 3. Lower ball joint cotter
pin and nut.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Steering knuckle into strut and install steering knuckle-to-strut assembly bolts.
^ Tighten steering knuckle-to-strut assembly nuts to 180 Nm (133 ft. lbs.).
2. Hub and bearing assembly onto knuckle and install hub and bearing assembly bolts. 3. Lower
ball joint nut and cotter pin.
^ Lower ball joint nut to 55 Nm (41 ft. lbs.) minimum, 65 Nm (50 ft. lbs.) maximum, to install cotter
pin.
4. Check front wheel alignment.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 8983
Front Steering Knuckle: Service and Repair Strut and Knuckle Scribing
1. Using a sharp tool, scribe the knuckle along the lower outboard strut radius as shown. 2. Scribe
the strut flange on the inboard side along the curve of the knuckle, as shown. 3. Make a scribe
mark across the strut/knuckle interface as shown. 4. On reassembly, carefully match the marks to
the or components.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Bleeding > System
Information > Service and Repair
Power Steering Bleeding: Service and Repair
Bleed air from the system after replacing the fluid or servicing the power steering hydraulic system.
Air in the system prevents an accurate fluid level reading, causes pump cavitation noise, and over
time, could damage the pump. To bleed the power steering system, proceed as follows: 1. With the
engine off and front wheels lifted off the ground and turned all the way to the left, add either
standard power steering fluid or optional
cold climate fluid to the "Full Cold" mark on the fluid level indicator.
2. Bleed the system by turning the wheels from side to side without hitting the stops.
Important: This may require turning the wheels from side to side several times. Keep the fluid level
at the "Full Cold" mark. Fluid with air in it has a tan appearance. This air must be eliminated before
normal steering action can be obtained.
3. Start the engine. With the engine idling, recheck the fluid level. If necessary, add fluid to bring
the level to the "Full Cold" mark. 4. Return the wheels to the center position. Lower front wheels to
ground. Continue running the engine for two or three minutes. 5. Road test the vehicle to be sure
the steering functions normally and is free from noise.
^ Inspect for fluid leakage at connection points along the power steering system.
6. Recheck the fluid level as described in Steps 2 and 3, except that the fluid level should now be
up to the "FULL HOT" mark after the system has
stabilized at its normal operating temperature.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Bleeding > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 8988
NOTICE: When adding fluid or making a complete fluid change, always use GM P/N 1050017 (or
equivalent meeting GM Spec. No. 9985010) power steering fluid. Failure To use the proper fluid
will cause hose and seal damage and fluid leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Fluid >
Component Information > Specifications
Power Steering Fluid: Specifications
Lubricants:
GM Power Steering Fluid 1050017 or Equivalent GM Cold Climate Power Steering Fluid GM P/N
12345866 or Equivalent
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Inlet Pipe
Power Steering Line/Hose: Service and Repair Gear Inlet Pipe
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Inlet Pipe > Page 8996
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Line retainer (if applicable). 2. Gear inlet pipe from pump. 3. Gear inlet pipe from the inlet
hose/pipe assembly. 4. Gear inlet pipe from vehicle.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Gear inlet pipe into position on vehicle. 2. Gear inlet pipe to the hose/pipe assembly.
^ Tighten pipe to hose/pipe assembly 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
3. Gear inlet pipe to pump.
^ Tighten pipe to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Inlet Pipe > Page 8997
4. Line retainer (if applicable).
^ Bleed air from system.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Inlet Pipe > Page 8998
Power Steering Line/Hose: Service and Repair Gear Inlet Pipe/Hose Assembly
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Inlet Pipe > Page 8999
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Inlet Pipe > Page 9000
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Gear inlet hose/pipe from pipe (going to pump). 2. Raise vehicle. 3. Line retainer (if applicable).
4. Gear inlet pipe/hose from the steering gear. 5. Gear inlet pipe/hose from vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Inlet Pipe > Page 9001
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Gear inlet pipe/hose to vehicle. 2. Gear inlet pipe/hose to the steering gear.
^ Tighten pipe/hose assembly to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
3. Line retainer (if applicable). 4. Lower vehicle. 5. Gear inlet hose/pipe to pipe (going to pump).
^ Tighten pipe to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
Important: Bleed air from system.
^ Inspect for leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Inlet Pipe > Page 9002
Power Steering Line/Hose: Service and Repair Gear Outlet Pipe/Hose and Cooler Pipe
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Inlet Pipe > Page 9003
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Inlet Pipe > Page 9004
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Gear Inlet Pipe > Page 9005
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Gear outlet pipe/hose from pump reservoir after sliding spring hose clamp from inlet reservoir
tube. 2. Raise vehicle. 3. Line retainer (if applicable). 4. Gear outlet pipe/hose from steering gear.
5. Gear outlet pipe/hose from vehicle.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Gear outlet pipe/hose into position on vehicle. 2. Gear outlet pipe to the steering gear.
^ Tighten pipe to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
3. Line retainer (if applicable). 4. Lower vehicle. 5. Gear outlet pipe/hose to pump reservoir and
spring clamp.
Important: Bleed air from system.
^ Inspect for leaks.
6. Lower vehicle. 7. Fill with fluid and bleed system if necessary. 8. Check for leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Motor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Steering - Power Steering Pump Replacement Tips
Power Steering Motor: Technical Service Bulletins Steering - Power Steering Pump Replacement
Tips
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 06-02-32-013B
Date: August 07, 2009
Subject: Diagnostic Tips/Recommendations When Power Steering Pump Replacement is
Necessary
Models:
1997-2010 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER
H2, H3 2005-2009 Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years and update the information. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-02-32-013A (Section 02 - Steering).
A recently completed analysis of returned power steering (PS) pumps that had been replaced for
noise, no power assist, no or low pressure and leaking conditions has indicated a high number of
"No Trouble Found" results.
Corporate Bulletin Number 01-02-32-004 indicates that when attempting to repair a power steering
concern, the steering system analyzer should be utilized to assist the technician in a successful
diagnosis. Note- Saturn ASTRA does not utilize the Power Steering System Analyzer.
In addition, extensive warranty analysis has shown that the following situations are all significant
root causes of PS pump failures:
- Improper pulley installation
- Re-using the O-rings
- Using fluid other than the OE-specified steering fluid
- Failure to flush the PS system
In order to help improve customer satisfaction and reduce comebacks, GM recommends the
following tips for replacing a PS pump:
1. Low or no pressure from the PS pump may be the results of dirty or contaminated fluid, which
could cause the pressure relief valve to stop
functioning. Using the proper tools, flush and bleed the PS system. Any residual contaminants will
result in pump failure.
2. When removing the pulley, use the proper special tools. Because the pulley alignment is critical,
distorting the pulley may damage bearings on the
new PS pump.
Note Some new PS pumps may not include a new O-ring. Please refer to the appropriate Parts
Catalog. Saturn retailers should refer to the appropriate model year Parts & Illustration Catalog for
the vehicle.
3. Be sure to use only the new O-rings included with the PS pump. The new reservoir O-ring must
be lubricated with OE-specific PS fluid prior to
installation. Also make sure that the control valve O-ring is in its exact groove position and is NOT
covering the pressure bypass hole.
4. Bleed the PS system according to the procedures/recommendations in SI.
Following these procedures and using the correct tools and fluids should help ensure that the new
PS pump operates properly. Skipping steps may cost you time and trouble later.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump >
Component Information > Specifications
Power Steering Pump: Specifications
End Plug ..............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. 75.0 Nm (55 ft. lbs.) O-ring Union Fitting ..........................................
.................................................................................................................................... 75.0 Nm (55 ft.
lbs.) Variable Assist Steering Actuator
..........................................................................................................................................................
62.0 Nm (46 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump >
Component Information > Diagrams > Direct Drive Power Steering Pump
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump >
Component Information > Diagrams > Direct Drive Power Steering Pump > Page 9015
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Diagnostic Information & Procedures
Power Steering Pump: Testing and Inspection Diagnostic Information & Procedures
GENERAL PROCEDURE
Inspect: ^
Overfilled reservoir.
^ Fluid aeration and overflow.
^ Hose connections.
^ Verify exact point of leakage. Example: The point from which the fluid is dripping is not necessarily the point where the system is
leaking. Fluid overflowing from the reservoir may appear to be dripping from the bottom of the
housing.
Important: ^
When service is required: A. Clean leakage area upon disassembly. B. Replace leaking seal. C.
Check component sealing surfaces for damage. D. Reset bolt tightening specification, where
required.
^ Some complaints about the power steering system may be reported as: A. Fluid leakage on
garage floor. B. Fluid leaks visible on steering gear or pump. C. Growling noise, especially when
parking or when engine is cold. D. Loss of power steering when parking. E. Heavy steering effort.
^ When troubleshooting these kinds of complaints check for an external leak in the power steering
system.
EXTERNAL LEAKAGE CHECK
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Diagnostic Information & Procedures > Page 9018
The purpose of this procedure is to pinpoint the location of the leak. In some cases, the leak can
easily be located. But, seepage type leaks may be more difficult to isolate. To locate seepage
leaks, use the following method. 1. With the engine off, wipe dry the complete power steering
system. 2. Check the fluid level in the pump's reservoir. Adjust fluid level as necessary. 3. Start the
engine, then turn the steering wheel from stop to stop several times. Do not hold it at a stop for any
length of time, as this can damage the
power steering pump. It is easier if someone else operates the steering wheel while you search for
the seepage.
4. Find the exact area of the leak and repair leak.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Diagnostic Information & Procedures > Page 9019
Power Steering Pump: Testing and Inspection Diagnosis By Symptom
Power Rack and Pinion Steering Gear
HISSING NOISE
There is some noise in all power steering systems. One of the most common is a hissing sound
when the steering wheel is turned and the vehicle is not moving. This noise will be most evident
when turning the wheel while the brakes are applied. There is no relationship between this noise
and steering performance. Do not replace the valve and pinion unless the "hissing" noise is
extremely objectionable. A replacement valve and pinion will also have a slight noise, and is not
always a cure for the condition. Check that the intermediate shaft joints are not loose.
RATTLE OR CHUCKING NOISE
Inspect: ^
Power steering hose or line grounding out.
^ Tie rod ends loose.
^ Loose steering gear mounting.
^ Rack bearing preload loose.
^ Intermediate shaft boot mispositioned.
POOR RETURN OF STEERING WHEEL TO CENTER
Inspect: ^
Front-wheel alignment.
^ Hub and bearing assembly worn.
^ Intermediate shaft binding or loose.
^ Tie rod end binding.
^ Ball joint binding.
^ Tight or frozen steering shaft bearings.
^ Rack bearing preload.
^ Sticky or plugged valve and pinion.
^ Intermediate shaft boot mispositioned.
MOMENTARY INCREASE IN EFFORT WHEN TURNING WHEEL FAST TO RIGHT OR LEFT
(ESPECIALLY WHEN COLD)
Inspect: ^
High internal leakage in gear or pump.
^ Hose pinched or restricted.
^ Sticking flow control valve.
^ Low fluid level in pump reservoir.
STEERING WHEEL SURGES OR JERKS WHEN TURNING WITH ENGINE RUNNING
(ESPECIALLY DURING PARKING, OR COLD)
Inspect: ^
Belt slipping.
^ Insufficient pump pressure
EXCESSIVE WHEEL KICKBACK OR LOOSE STEERING
Inspect: ^
Air in system.
^ Steering gear attachments loose.
^ Intermediate shaft loose.
^ Tie rod ends loose.
^ Hub and bearing assembly worn.
^ Rack bearing preload.
HARD STEERING OR LACK OF ASSIST (ESPECIALLY DURING PARKING)
Inspect: ^
Loose or worn intermediate shaft.
^ Loose belt.
^ Insufficient pump pressure.
^ High internal leakage in gear or pump.
Power Steering Pump
FOAMING, MILKY POWER STEERING FLUID, LOW FLUID LEVEL, AND POSSIBLE LOW
PRESSURE
This can be caused by air in the fluid, and loss of fluid due to internal pump leakage causing
overflow. Check for leak and correct. Bleed the system. Extremely cold temperatures will cause air
bubbles in the system if the fluid level is low.
LOW PRESSURE DUE TO STEERING PUMP
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Diagnostic Information & Procedures > Page 9020
Inspect: ^
Stuck or inoperative flow control valve.
^ Pressure plate not flat against cam ring.
^ Extreme wear of cam ring.
^ Scored pressure plate, thrust plate or rotor.
^ Vanes sticking in rotor slots.
^ Cracked or broken thrust or pressure plate.
^ High internal leakage.
LOW PRESSURE DUE TO STEERING GEAR
Inspect: ^
Scored housing bore.
^ Leakage at seals.
^ Leakage at piston ring.
^ Air in system.
GROWLING NOISE IN STEERING PUMP
Inspect: ^
Excessive back pressure in hoses or steering gear caused by restriction.
^ Scored pressure plates, thrust plate or rotor.
^ Hose or line grounding out.
^ Worn cam ring.
^ Low fluid level.
^ Air in system.
GROANING NOISE IN STEERING PUMP
Inspect: ^
Air in the fluid.
^ Hose or line grounding out.
^ Low fluid level.
^ Pump mounting loose.
RATTLING NOISE IN STEERING PUMP
Inspect: ^
Vanes sticking in rotor slots.
SWISHING NOISE IN STEERING PUMP
Inspect: ^
Damaged flow control valve.
WHINING NOISE IN STEERING PUMP
Inspect: ^
Scored pressure plates and vanes.
^ Low fluid level.
STEERING VIBRATES (SHUDDERS) DURING LOW SPEED OR STATIC STEERING
Inspect: ^
Air in system.
^ Loose power steering belt.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump >
Component Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service
Power Steering Pump: Service and Repair On-Vehicle Service
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Belt. 2. Nut from bracket retaining hose on alternator. 3. Engine mount. 4. Pump bolts (3) to ease
pump line removal. 5. Lines at pump. 6. Transfer pulley (if necessary).
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Lines at pump.
^ Tighten power steering gear inlet pipe to pump to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
2. Pump (3) bolts.
^ Tighten pump mounting bolts to 34 Nm (25 ft. lbs.).
3. Belt. 4. Engine mount. 5. Nut to bracket retaining hose on alternator. 6. Fill with fluid and bleed
air from power steering system.
^ Inspect for leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump >
Component Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 9023
Power Steering Pump: Service and Repair Unit Repair
Service Precautions
CAUTION: Before removing any electrical units, disconnect the negative battery cable to help
prevent personal injuries and/or damage to vehicle components.
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for the application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener tightening specification and the
joint clamping force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct
tightening sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to
parts and systems.
Reservoir Assembly
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump >
Component Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 9024
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Pump assembly from vehicle, if necessary for access. 2. Retaining clips (3) and (5) from
reservoir assembly (2) and housing (10). 3. Reservoir (2) from housing (10). 4. O-ring seal (8) from
reservoir (2).
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Lubricate new O-ring (8) with power steering fluid.
^ O-ring seal (8) to reservoir (2).
2. Reservoir assembly (2) to housing (10). 3. Retaining clips (3) and (5) to reservoir (2) and
housing (10). 4. Pump assembly to vehicle, if removed.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump >
Component Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 9025
Variable Assist Steering Actuator
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump >
Component Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 9026
GENERAL INFORMATION
This vehicle may be equipped with a Variable Assist Steering hydraulic control system. If the power
steering pump has Variable Assist Steering, service as follows.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Negative (-) battery cable. 2. Electrical connector from Variable Assist Steering actuator (22). 3.
Pump assembly from vehicle, if necessary for access. 4. Retaining clip (23) from Variable Assist
Steering actuator (22). 5. Variable Assist Steering actuator (22) and discharge fitting (17).
^ Discharge fitting from Variable Assist Steering actuator.
^ O-Ring seals (18, 20 and 2i) from Variable Assist Steering actuator (22).
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. O-Ring seals (18, 20 and 21) on Variable Assist Steering actuator (22). 2. Discharge fitting (17)
to Variable Assist Steering actuator (22). 3. Variable Assist Steering actuator and discharge fitting
(17) to pump assembly. 4. Position discharge fitting (17). 5. Negative (-) battery cable.
^ Tighten Variable Assist Steering actuator (22) to 62 Nm (46 ft. lbs.).
6. Electrical connector to Variable Assist Steering actuator (22). 7. Retaining clip (23) to Variable
Assist Steering actuator (22).
^ If a new Variable Assist Steering actuator (22) is being installed, position electrical connector
before installing retaining clip (23).
8. Pump assembly to vehicle, if removed.
Control Valve
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump >
Component Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 9027
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Pump assembly from vehicle, if necessary for access. 2. O-ring union fitting (16) and O-ring (15)
or Variable Assist Steering actuator, if so equipped.
^ If pump is equipped with a Variable Assist Steering actuator, remove actuator (22) and discharge
fitting (17).
3. Control valve assembly (13). 4. Flow control spring (12).
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Flow control spring (12). 2. Control valve assembly (13). 3. Lubricate new O-ring (15) with power
steering fluid.
^ O-ring (15) on fitting (16).
4. Fitting (16) and O-ring seal (15) or Variable Assist Steering actuator (22), if so equipped.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump >
Component Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 9028
^ If pump is equipped with a Variable Assist Steering actuator, install actuator (22) and discharge
fitting (17).
^ Tighten fitting (16) to 75 Nm (55 ft. lbs.).
5. Pump assembly to vehicle, if removed.
Drive Shaft Seal (Without Disassembly of Pump)
^ Tool Required: J 7728 Shaft Oil Seal Installer
- Or Equivalent
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Pump assembly from vehicle, if necessary for access.
2. Protect drive shaft (7) with shim stock. 3. Seal (11) and discard. (Use small chisel to cut drive
shaft seal.)
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. New drive shaft seal (11), lubricated with power steering fluid, using tool J 7728. 2. Pump
assembly to vehicle, if removed.
Hydraulic Pump Assembly
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump >
Component Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 9029
^ Tool Required: J 7728 Shaft Oil Seal Installer
- Or Equivalent
DISASSEMBLE
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump >
Component Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 9030
1. Retaining ring (37) using punch in access hole. 2. Internal components of pump from pump
housing (l0) by gently pushing on drive shaft (7).
^ Components should include pressure plate sub-assembly consisting of: End cover (36).
- O-ring seal (35).
- Pressure plate spring (33).
- Pressure plate (31).
^ Drive shaft sub-assembly consisting of: Pump rotor (28).
- Thrust plate (25).
- Drive shaft (7).
- Shaft retaining ring (30).
- Pump ring (26) and vanes (27).
3. O-ring (32) from pump housing (10). 4. Dowel dins (61. 5. Drive shaft seal (11). 6. End cover
(36), pressure plate spring (33) and O-ring (35) from pressure plate (31). 7. Pump ring (26) and
vanes (27) from drive shaft subassembly. 8. Shaft retaining ring (30) from drive shaft (7). 9. Pump
rotor (28) and thrust plate (25) from drive shaft (7).
^ Clean: All parts in power steering fluid.
- Dry parts.
^ Inspect: Pressure plate (31).
- Pump ring (26).
- Rotor (28).
- Vanes (27).
- Thrust plate (25).
- Drive shaft (7).
- If scoring, pitting or chatter marks are noted, replace appropriate parts.
ASSEMBLE
1. Lubricate new drive shaft seal (11) with power steering fluid.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump >
Component Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 9031
^ Drive shaft seal (11) into pump housing (10) with tool J 7728.
2. Pump ring dowel pins (6) into pump housing (10).
3. Thrust plate (25) and pump rotor (28) to drive shaft (7). 4. New shaft retaining ring (30) onto
drive shaft (7). 5. Drive shaft sub-assembly into pump housing (10). 6. Vanes (27) into pump rotor
(28).
7. Pump ring (26), with holes positioned correctly onto dowel pins (6), in pump housing (10). 8.
Lubricate new O-ring (32) with power steering fluid.
^ O-ring (32) into groove in pump housing (10).
9. Pressure plate (31).
10. Pressure plate spring (33). 11. Lubricate new O-ring (35) with power steering fluid.
^ O-ring (35) into end cover (36).
12. Lubricate outer edge of end cover (36) with power steering fluid. 13. Press end cover (36) into
pump housing (10).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump >
Component Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 9032
14. Retaining ring (37) into groove in pump housing (10), with ring opening near access hole in
pump housing.
Control Valve
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump >
Component Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 9033
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Pump assembly from vehicle, if necessary for access. 2. Housing plug (39) and 0-ring (15). 3.
Flow control spring (12). 4. Control valve (13).
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Control valve (13). 2. Flow control spring (12). 3. O-ring (15) and housing plug (39).
^ Tighten housing plug (39) to 75 Nm (55 ft. lbs.).
4. Pump assembly to vehicle, if removed.
Face Seal
NOTICE: This procedure is completed without the disassembly of the pump.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Pump assembly from vehicle. 2. Face seal (11) from pump. Lift seal from face of pump housing
(10). Separate from shaft seal and pilot assembly in housing. Do not damage
housing surface under flat face of seal.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Face seal to pump. Locate seal on shaft seal and pilot assembly in housing. Seal is installed
properly with either side out. 2. Pump assembly into vehicle.
Hydraulic Pump Assembly
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump >
Component Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 9034
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump >
Component Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 9035
DISASSEMBLE
1. Retaining ring (30) using punch in access hole. 2. Internal components of pump from pump
housing by gently pushing on drive shaft (7).
^ Components should include pressure plate sub-assembly consisting of: End cover (36).
- O-ring seal (35).
- Pressure plate spring (33).
- Pressure plate (31).
^ Drive shaft sub-assembly consisting of: Pump rotor (28).
- Thrust plate (25).
- Drive shaft (7).
- Shaft retaining ring (30).
- Pump ring (26) and vanes (27).
3. O-ring from pump housing. 4. Dowel pins (6). 5. End cover (36), pressure plate spring (33),
pressure plate (31) and O-ring (35) from end cover (35). 6. Pump ring (26) and vanes (27) from
drive shaft subassembly. 7. Shaft retaining ring (30) from drive shaft (7). 8. Pump rotor (28) and
thrust plate (25) from drive shaft (7).
^ Clean: All parts in power steering fluid.
- Dry all parts.
^ Inspect: Pressure plate (31).
- Pump ring (26).
- Rotor (28).
- Vanes (27).
- Thrust plate (25).
- Drive shaft (7).
- Face seal (11).
- If scoring, pitting or chatter marks are noted replace appropriate parts.
ASSEMBLE
1. Pump ring dowel pins (6) into pump housing (10). 2. Thrust plate (25) and pump rotor (28) to
drive shaft (7).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump >
Component Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 9036
3. New shaft retaining ring (30) onto drive shaft (7). 4. Drive shaft sub-assembly into pump housing
(10).
5. Pump ring (26) with holes positioned correctly onto dowel pins (6), in pump housing (10). 6.
Vanes (27) into pump rotor. 7. Lubricate new O-ring (32) with power steering fluid.
^ O-ring (32) into groove in pump housing (10).
8. Pressure plate (31). 9. Pressure plate spring (33).
10. Lubricate new O-ring with power steering fluid.
^ O-ring (35) into end cover (36).
11. Lubricate outer edge of end cover (36) with power steering fluid.
^ Press end cover (36) into pump housing (10).
12. Retaining ring (37) into groove in pump housing (10), with ring opening near access hole in
pump housing (10).
Important: Retaining ring opening must be located next to mounting boss.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump >
Component Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 9037
Power Steering Pump: Service and Repair Power Steering Pump Pulley Replacement
^ Tools Required: J 25034-B Power Steering Pulley Remover
- J 25033-B Installer; or
- J 36015 Power Steering Pulley Installer
- Or Equivalents
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Belt from pulley. 2. Pump from engine for tool clearance.
^ It is not necessary to remove the pressure and return lines from the pump.
3. Pulley using J 25034-B.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Pulley using J 25033-B or J 36015.
Important: ^
Face of pulley hub must be flush with pump drive shaft.
^ Do not use arbor press to install pulley.
2. Pump to engine. 3. Belt on pulley. 4. Bleed power removed from engine.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump >
Component Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 9038
Power Steering Pump: Service and Repair Seal Replacement Recommendations
Lip seals, which seal rotating shafts, require special treatment. This type of seal is used on the
steering gear at the valve and pinion and on the drive shaft of the pump. When there is a leak in
one of these areas, always replace the seal(s), after inspecting and thoroughly cleaning the sealing
surfaces. Replace the shaft only if very severe pitting is found. If the corrosion in the lip seal
contact zone is slight, clean the surface of the shaft with crocus cloth. Replace the shaft only if the
leakage cannot be stopped by first smoothing with crocus cloth.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 9039
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming
> System Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Air Bag Disarming and Arming
Disabling the SIR System
Description
Description
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming
> System Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming > Page 9045
^ Turn the steering wheel to the straight ahead position.
^ Remove the key from the ignition switch.
1. The AIR BAG fuse from the I/P fuse block. 2. The I/P insulator left side. 3. The Connector
Position Assurance (CPA) and the driver yellow 2-way connector located at the base of the
steering column. 4. The I/P compartment door. 5. The Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and
the passenger yellow 2-way connector located behind the I/P compartment door.
IMPORTANT
With the AIR BAG fuse removed and the ignition switch in the RUN position, the AIR BAG warning
lamp Illuminates. This is normal operation and does not indicate a SIR system malfunction.
Enabling the SIR System
Description
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming
> System Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming > Page 9046
Description
INSTALL OR CONNECT
^ Remove the key from the ignition switch.
1. Passenger yellow 2-way connector and the CPA located behind the Instrument panel
compartment. 2. Instrument panel compartment. Refer to instrument panel compartment in
Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console. 3. Driver yellow 2-way connector and the CPA located at
the base of the steering column. 4. Instrument Cluster insulator (left side). Refer to instrument
panel in Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console. 5. The AIR BAG Fuse to the LH I/P Bussed
Electrical Center (LH I/P BEC). Refer to Power Distribution in Diagrams.
^ Staying well away from both air bags, turn the ignition switch to the RUN position. Verify that the
AIR BAG warning lamp flashes seven times and then stays off. If the AIR BAG warning lamp does
not operate as described, perform the SIR DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM CHECK. See: Restraint
Systems/Air Bag Systems/Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming
> System Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming > Page 9047
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair General Service Precautions
CAUTION: When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you
must disable the SIR system. Use the following procedure to temporarily disable the I/P system.
Failure to follow the correct procedure could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or
unnecessary SIR system repairs.
The inflatable restraint sensing and diagnostic module maintains a reserve energy supply. When
the vehicle power is insufficient to cause deployment of the air bags, the reserve energy supply
provides the deployment power. Deployment power is available for as much as 10 minutes after
disconnecting the vehicle power by any of the following methods:
^ You turn off the ignition switch.
^ You remove the fuse that provides power to the inflatable restraint sensing and diagnostic
module.
^ You disconnect the vehicle battery from the vehicle electrical system.
Disabling the SIR System prevents deploying of the air bags from the reserve energy supply
power. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. See: Air Bag Disarming and Arming/Disabling the SIR
System
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion Bearing Separation
Technical Service Bulletin # 03062 Date: 040129
Recall - Steering Gear Pinion Bearing Separation
Bulletin No: 03062
Date: January 29, 2004
RECALL
Product Safety - Power Steering Gear Lower Pinion Bearing Separation
Models: 1996-1998 Buick Regal 1997-1998 Chevrolet Lumina, Malibu, Monte Carlo 1997-1998
Oldsmobile Cutlass 1996-1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue 1996
Pontiac Grand Prix
Condition
General Motors has decided that a defect which relates to motor vehicle safety exists in certain
1996-1998 Buick Regal; 1997-1998 Chevrolet Lumina, Malibu, and Monte Carlo; 1997-1998
Oldsmobile Cutlass; 1996-1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme; 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue; and 1996
Pontiac Grand Prix vehicles. Some of these vehicles have a condition where the lower pinion
bearing in the power steering gear may separate. Most reports indicate the driver experienced an
intermittent loss of power steering assist when making left turns, usually at low speeds. Power
assist is normal in right hand turns. When trying to turn left, some drivers could experience higher
resistance or, in a few cases assist towards the right. If this happens while the vehicle is moving, a
crash could result.
Correction
Dealers are to inspect the condition of the lower pinion bearing and replace the lower pinion
bearing, or in a few cases, replace the rack and pinion steering gear assembly.
Vehicles Involved
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 9056
Involved are certain 1996-1998 Buick Regal; 1997-1998 Chevrolet Lumina, Malibu, and Monte
Carlo; 1997-1998 Oldsmobile Cutlass; 1996-1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme; 1998 Oldsmobile
Intrigue; and 1996 Pontiac Grand Prix vehicles built within the VIN breakpoints shown.
Important
Dealers should confirm vehicle eligibility through GMVIS (GM Vehicle Inquiry System) before
beginning recall repairs [Not all vehicles within the above breakpoints may be involved.
For US
For dealers with involved vehicles, a Campaign Initiation Detail Report containing the complete
Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and address data has been prepared and will be
loaded to the GM DealerWorld, Recall Information website. The customer name and address data
furnished will enable dealers to follow up with customers involved in this program.
For Canada & IPC
Computer listings containing the complete Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and
address data of involved vehicles have been prepared, and are being furnished to involved dealers.
The customer name and address data will enable dealers to follow up with customers involved in
this recall. Any dealer not receiving a computer listing with the recall bulletin has no involved
vehicles currently assigned.
These dealer listings may contain customer names and addresses obtained from Motor Vehicle
Registration Records. The use of such motor vehicle registration data for any other purpose is a
violation of law in several provinces. Accordingly, you are urged to limit the use of this report to the
follow-up necessary to complete this program.
Parts Information
Parts Pre-Ship Information - For US and Canada
Important
An initial supply of steering gear pinion bearing kits required to complete this program will be
pre-shipped to involved dealers of record. This pre-shipment is scheduled to begin the week of
January 19, 2004 and will be approximately 20% of each dealers involved vehicles. Pre-shipped
parts will be charged to dealers open parts account.
Additional parts, if required, are to be obtained from General Motors Service Parts Operations
(GMSPO). Please refer to your "involved vehicles listing" before ordering parts. Normal orders
should be placed on a DRO = Daily Replenishment Order. In an emergency situation, parts should
be ordered on a CSO = Customer Special Order.
Special Tool
During the week of January 19, 2004, dealers who did not have vehicles involved in recall 02049,
will be shipped a Pinion Bearing Replacer, J 44714-B, for use in this recall. All other dealers were
shipped this tool in December 2002, for use in recall 02049. This tool is being furnished at no
charge. Additional tools, if required, may be purchased by contacting SPX Kent-Moore at
1-800-GM-TOOLS (1-800-468- 6657).
Customer Reimbursement - For US
All customer requests for reimbursement for previous repairs for the recall condition will be handled
by the Customer Assistance Center, not by dealers.
A General Motors Product Recall Customer Reimbursement Procedure Form is shown in this
bulletin.
Customer Reimbursement - For Canada
Customer requests for reimbursement of previously paid repairs to correct the condition addressed
in this bulletin are to be submitted by February 28, 2005.
All reasonable customer paid receipts should be considered for reimbursement. The amount to be
reimbursed will be limited to the amount the repair would have cost if completed by an authorized
General Motors dealer.
When a customer requests reimbursement, they must provide the following:
^ Proof of ownership at time of repair.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 9057
^ Original paid receipt confirming the amount of repair expense(s) that were not reimbursed, a
description of the repair, and the person or entity performing the repair.
Claims for customer reimbursement on previously paid repairs are to be submitted as required by
WINS.
Important
Refer to the GM Service Policies and Procedure Manual, section 1.6.2, for specific procedures
reguarding Customer reimbursement verification.
Claim Information
Submit a Product Recall Claim with the information shown.
Refer to the General Motors WINS Claims Processing Manual for details on Product Recall Claim
Submission.
Customer Notification -- For US and Canada
General Motors will notify customers of this recall on their vehicle (see copy of customer letter
shown in this bulletin).
Customer Notification -- For IPC
Letters will be sent to known owners of record located within areas covered by the US National
Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. For owners
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 9058
outside these areas, dealers should notify customers using the sample letter shown.
Dealer Recall Responsibility -- For US and IPC (US States, Territories, and Possessions)
The US National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act provides that each vehicle which is subject to
a recall of this type must be adequately repaired within a reasonable time after the customer has
tendered it for repair. A failure to repair within sixty days after tender of a vehicle is prima facie
evidence of failure to repair within a reasonable time. If the condition is not adequately repaired
within a reasonable time, the customer may be entitled to an identical or reasonably equivalent
vehicle at no charge or to a refund of the purchase price less a reasonable allowance for
depreciation. To avoid having to provide these burdensome remedies, every effort must be made
to promptly schedule an appointment with each customer and to repair their vehicle as soon as
possible. In the recall notification letters, customers are told how to contact the US National
Highway Traffic Safety Administration if the recall is not completed within a reasonable time.
Dealer Recall Responsibility -- All
All unsold new vehicles in dealers possession and subject to this recall MUST be held and
inspected/repaired per the service procedure of this recall bulletin BEFORE customers take
possession of these vehicles.
Dealers are to service all vehicles subject to this recall at no charge to customers, regardless of
mileage, age of vehicle, or ownership, from this time forward.
Customers who have recently purchased vehicles sold from your vehicle inventory, and for which
there is no customer information indicated on the dealer listing, are to be contacted by the dealer.
Arrangements are to be made to make the required correction according to the instructions
contained in this bulletin. A copy of the customer letter is shown in this bulletin for your use in
contacting customers. Recall follow-up cards should not be used for this purpose, since the
customer may not as yet have received the notification letter.
In summary, whenever a vehicle subject to this recall enters your vehicle inventory, or is in your
dealership for service in the future, please take the steps necessary to be sure the recall correction
has been made before selling or releasing the vehicle.
GENERAL MOTORS PRODUCT PROGRAM CUSTOMER REIMBURSEMENT PROCEDURE
If you have paid to have this recall condition corrected prior to receiving this notification, you may
be eligible to receive reimbursement.
Requests for reimbursement may include parts, labor, fees and taxes. Reimbursement may be
limited to the amount the repair would have cost if completed by an authorized General Motors
dealer. Your claim will be acted upon within 60 days of receipt.
If your claim is:
^ Approved, you will receive a check from General Motors.
^ Denied, you will receive a letter from General Motors with the reason(s) for the denial, or
^ Incomplete, you will receive a letter from General Motors identifying the documentation that is
needed to complete the claim and offered the opportunity to resubmit the claim when the missing
documentation is available.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 9059
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 9060
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 9061
Please follow the instructions on the Claim Form shown to file a claim for reimbursement. If you
have questions about this reimbursement procedure, please call the toll-free telephone number
provided at the bottom of the form. If you need assistance with any other concern, please contact
the appropriate Customer Assistance Center at the number shown.
Disclaimer
Steering Gear Inspection For Involvement
Steering Gear Inspection for Involvement
If a vehicle has had the power steering gear lower pinion bearing or steering gear replaced with a
remanufactured GM steering gear assembly obtained from GMSPO or AC Delco prior to this recall,
the applicable service procedure below will still need to be performed on the vehicle.
If a vehicle had the power steering gear lower pinion bearing or steering gear replaced with a
non-GM design (aftermarket) steering gear, DO NOT perform this recall. Attempting to perform this
recall on a non-GM design steering gear may void the manufacturers warranty given to the
customer at the time of the purchase.
1. Inspect the steering gear housing for one of the GM design steering gear identifiers listed below.
^ A label on the housing indicating that the gear was remanufactured for GM or AC Delco.
^ An 8-digit casting or part number stamped in the rear side of the aluminum housing above or near
the left mounting hole.
^ An list, type logo in the aluminum housing.
2. If the steering gear housing has one of the identifier listed above, the recall must be performed.
Proceed to the appropriate procedure.
3. If the steering gear housing DOES NOT have one of the identifiers listed above, ensure that the
steering gear is non-GM design by contacting the customer and inquiring about where the vehicle
was previously repaired. If the customer indicates that the subject steering gear was installed by a
non-GM dealer, advise the customer that the recall does not apply, and if necessary, refer to
customer to the Customer Assistance Center for reimbursement.
96 Regal, 97-98 Lumina & Monte Carlo, 96-97 Cutlass Supreme , 96 Grand Prix
Lower Pinion Bearing Inspection -- 1996 Buick Regal; 1997-1998 Chevrolet Lumina, Monte Carlo;
1996-1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme; 1996 Pontiac Grand Prix
The following service procedure is for inspection of the lower pinion bearing and can be performed
without completely removing the steering gear from the vehicle.
Tools Required
^ J 44714-B Pinion Bearing Remover
^ J 24319-B Steering Linkage and Tie Rod Puller
1. Open the hood.
2. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist and support.
3. Remove the left front tire and wheel assembly.
4. Support the rear of the engine cradle and remove the two rear cradle attaching bolts.
5. Partially lower the rear of the engine cradle.
6. Remove the bolt and separate the intermediate steering shaft from the steering gear.
7. Lower the rear of the engine cradle as necessary to access and remove the steering gear
attaching bolts.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 9062
8. On models equipped with a 3.4L engine, remove the two bolts that attach the heat shield that
covers the right steering gear attaching bolt. Remove the heat shield.
9. Remove the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle.
10. Remove the nut that attaches the outer left tie rod end to the steering knuckle.
11. Using the J 24319-B, Steering Linkage and Tie Rod Puller, or equivalent, separate the outer left
tie rod from the steering knuckle.
12. Remove the steering gear from the engine cradle mounting brackets and reposition to access
the dust cap (3). Refer to Figure 1.
Important
When removing the dust cap in the next step, watch for loose ball hearings that may have
separated from the inner and outer pinion bearing races.
13. Remove the dust cap (3) from the steering gear housing (2) and inspect for loose ball bearings.
Refer to Figure 1.
^ If no ball bearings were found in the dust cap, proceed to the next step and replace the lower
pinion bearing.
^ If one or more ball bearings were found loose in the dust cap, proceed to the section in this
bulletin titled, "Steering Gear Replacement," for the described vehicle.
14. Reposition the steering gear as necessary to access the adjuster plug lock nut and the adjuster
plug.
Notice
Failure to perform the next step may result in damage to the lower pinion bearing removal tool, J
44714-1.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 9063
15. Loosen the adjuster plug nut (3) and the adjuster plug (2). Refer to Figure 2. Do not remove the
plug.
Notice
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
16. While holding the stub shaft (1), remove the retaining nut (4) from the pinon shaft. Refer to
Figure 1. Do not reuse the nut.
17. Remove the lower retaining snap ring (1). Refer to Figure 3.
Important
The bearing retainer being removed in the next step is a small piece of wire that keeps all the bail
bearings evenly spaced inside the bearing races.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 9064
18. Using a small "pick" like tool, remove the bearing retainer from the bearing. Refer to Figure 4.
19. After removing the bearing retainer, reposition the ball bearings into two groups of four. Refer to
Figure 5
20. Separate the 2-legged puller from the center nut on the J 44714-B and insert the puller legs into
the openings between the two groups of ball bearings.
21. With the forcing screw back off, screw the center nut into the puller and tighten until the nut
bottoms against the puller. Refer to Figure 6.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 9065
22. While holding the center nut with a wrench, tighten the forcing screw to remove the bearing
from the housing. Refer to Figure 7.
Important
Inspect the gear housing to ensure that all pieces of the old bearing have been removed.
23. Apply a small quantity of lubrication (e.g., multi-purpose grease or power steering fluid) inside
of the housing bore where the new bearing will be installed.
24. Center the new bearing over the pinion thread. The bearing can be installed with either side
facing outwards.
25. Place the bearing installer (1) J 44714-2 (included in J 44714-B) over the pinion thread. Refer
to Figure 8. If necessary, use the extension included with the installer. Lightly tap the bearing
installer with a hammer until the bearing is seated in the housing.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 9066
26. Install a new snap ring. When properly installed, the large lug (1) on the snap ring must be on
the right side as shown in Figure 9.
Important
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
27. While holding the stub shaft (1), install a new retaining nut (3) on the pinion shaft. Refer to
Figure 10.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 30 Nm (22 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 9067
28. With the rack centered in the housing, tighten the adjuster plug (2) to 10 Nm (88 lb in), and then
back off 40 to 50 degrees. Refer to Figure 11. Check the torque on the pinion. Maximum pinion
preload torque is 4 Nm (35 lb in).
29. Tighten the adjuster plug lock nut (3) firmly against the steering gear housing while holding the
adjuster plug (2) stationary.
30. Install a new dust cap (2) to the steering gear housing.
31. Install the steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
32. Install the steering gear attaching bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 80 Nm (59 lb ft).
33. On models equipped with a 3.4L engine, install the heat shield and attaching bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 6 Nm (54 lb in).
34. Install the left outer tie rod to the steering knuckle. On models with a torque prevailing nut,
tighten the nut to 30 Nm (22 lb ft) and then tighten an additional 115 degrees. On models with a
slotted nut and cotter pin, tighten the nut to 85 Nm (63 lb ft). If necessary, tighten the nut slightly in
order to insert the cotter pin through the tie rod stud. Bend the cotter pin ends against the flats of
the nuts.
35. Partially raise the rear of the engine cradle.
36. Connect the intermediate steering shaft to the steering gear and install the bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 48 Nm (35 lb ft).
37. Raise the rear of the engine cradle and install the rear attaching bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 180 Nm (133 lb ft).
38. Install the left front tire and wheel assembly.
Tighten
Tighten the wheel nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb ft).
39. Lower the vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 9068
40. Check the power steering fluid level and add if necessary.
41. Check the alignment and set toe-in as necessary.
42. Close the hood.
Steering Gear Replacement, If Required -- 1996 Buick Regal, 1997-1998 Chevrolet Lumina, Monte
Carlo, 1996-1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, 1996 Pontiac Grand Prix
For additional information on steering gear removal, refer to the Steering section in the appropriate
Service Manual or SI.
Important
Steering gears currently available from GMSPO are verified good stock and do not require bearing
inspection or replacement.
The following service procedure is based on certain steps having already been performed in the
inspection procedure.
1. Remove the right front tire and wheel assembly.
2. Remove the nut that attaches the outer right tie rod end to the steering knuckle.
3. Using the J 24319-B, or equivalent, separate the outer right tie rod end from the steering
knuckle.
4. If equipped, disconnect the electrical connector form the switch on the steering gear.
5. Place the steering gear back inside of the mounting brackets on the engine cradle.
6. If equipped, release the strap that attaches the power steering fluid lines to the steering gear.
7. Loosen and disconnect both power steering fluid lines from the steering gear.
8. Remove the steering gear form the vehicle.
9. Remove the tie rod ends from the original steering gear.
10. Measure the position of the adjuster nuts on the old steering gear and adjust the new nuts on
the new steering gear to the same measurement.
11. Install the tie rod ends on the new steering gear.
Tighten
Tighten the adjuster nuts to 68 Nm (50 lb ft).
12. If equipped, transfer the switch to the new steering gear.
13. Install the new steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
14. Install the steering gear attaching bolts.
Tighten
Tighten to 80 Nm (59 lb ft).
15. Connect the power steering fluid lines to the steering gear.
Tighten
Tighten to 27 Nm (20 lb ft).
16. If equipped, connect the electrical connector to the switch on the steering gear.
17. On models equipped with a 3.4L engine, install the heat shield and attaching bolts.
Tighten
Tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb in).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 9069
18. Install both outer tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. On models with torque prevailing nuts,
tighten the nut to 30 Nm (22 lb ft) and then tighten an additional 115 degrees. On models with a
slotted nut and cotter pin, tighten the nut to 85 Nm (63 lb ft). If necessary, tighten the nut slightly in
order to insert the cotter pin through the tie rod stud. Bend the cotter pin ends against the flats of
the nuts.
19. Partially raise the rear of the engine cradle.
20. Connect the intermediate steering shaft to the steering gear and install the bolt.
Tighten
Tighten to 48 Nm (35 lb ft).
21. Raise the rear of the engine cradle and install the rear attaching bolts.
Tighten
Tighten to 180 Nm (133 lb ft).
22. Install both front tire and wheel assemblies.
Tighten
Tighten the wheel nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb ft).
23. Lower the vehicle.
24. Add power steering fluid and bleed the system.
25. Check the alignment and set toe-in as necessary.
26. Close the hood.
97-98 Malibu, 97-98 Cutlass
Lower Pinion Bearing Inspection -- 1997-1998 Chevrolet Malibu, 1997-1998 Oldsmobile Cutlass
Because of limited access in this vehicle, the pinion bearing can only be inspected after the
steering gear has been completely removed from the vehicle. For additional information on steering
gear removal, refer to the Steering section in the appropriate Service Manual or SI.
Tools Required
^ J 44714-B Pinion Bearing Remover
^ J 24319-B Steering Linkage and Tie Rod Puller
1. Open the hood.
2. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist and support.
3. Remove both front tire and wheel assemblies.
4. Remove the nuts securing the outer tie rod ends to the steering knuckles.
5. Using the J 24319-B, Steering Linkage and Tie Rod Puller, or equivalent, separate the outer tie
rod ends from the steering knuckles.
6. Remove the one bolts and two nuts attaching the rear transmission mount to the engine cradle.
7. Support the rear of the engine cradle.
8. Remove the six bolts that attach the rear of the engine cradle to the body.
9. Partially lower the rear of the engine cradle.
10. Remove the bolt and separate the intermediate steering shaft from the steering gear.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 9070
11. Remove the stabilizer link bolts from both lower control arms.
12. Lower the rear of the engine cradle as necessary to access the steering gear attaching bolts.
13. Remove the two bolts attaching the steering gear to the engine cradle.
14. Loosen and disconnect both power steering fluid lines from the steering gear.
15. Remove the steering gear from the engine cradle mounting brackets.
16. Remove the steering gear from the vehicle.
Important
When removing the dust cap in the next step, watch for loose ball bearings that may have
separated from the inner and outer pinion bearing races.
17. Remove the dust cap (3) from the steering gear housing (2) and inspect for loose ball bearings.
Refer to Figure 1.
^ If no ball bearings were found in the dust cap, proceed to the next step and replace the lower
pinion bearing.
^ If one or more ball bearings were found loose in the dust cap, proceed to the section in this
bulletin titled, "Steering Gear Replacement", for the described vehicle.
Notice
Failure to perform the next step may result in damage to the lower pinion bearing removal tool J
44714-1.
18. Loosen the adjuster plug lock nut (3) and the adjuster plug (2). Refer to Figure 2. Do not
remove the plug.
Notice
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
19. While holding the stub shaft (1), remove the retaining nut (4) from the pinion shaft. Refer to
Figure 1. Do not reuse the nut.
20. Remove the lower retaining snap ring (1). Refer to Figure 3.
Important
The bearing retainer being removed in the next step is a small piece of wire that keeps all of the
bearings evenly spaced inside the bearing races.
21. Using a small "pick" like tool, remove the bearing retainer from the bearing. Refer to Figure 4.
22. After removing the bearing retainer, reposition the ball bearings into two groups of four. Refer to
Figure 5.
23. Separate the 2-legged puller from the center nut on the J 44714-B and insert the puller legs into
the openings between the two groups of ball bearings.
24. With the forcing screw backed off, screw the center nut into the puller.
Tighten
Tighten the nut until it bottoms against the puller. Refer to Figure 6.
25. While holding the center nut with a wrench, tighten the forcing screw to remove the bearing
from the housing. Refer to Figure 7.
Important
Inspect the gear housing to ensure that all pieces of the old bearing have been removed.
26. Apply a small quantity of lubrication (e.g., multi-purpose grease or power steering fluid) inside
of the housing bore where the new bearing will be installed.
27. Center the new bearing over the pinion thread. The bearing can be installed with either side
facing outwards.
28. Place the bearing installer (1), J 44714-2 (included in J 44714-B) over the pinion thread. Refer
to Figure 8. Lightly tap the bearing installer with a hammer until the bearing is seated in the
housing.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 9071
29. Install a new snap ring. When properly installed, the large lug (1) on the snap ring must be on
the right side as shown in Figure 9.
Notice
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
30. While holding the stub shaft (1) install a new retaining nut (3) on the pinion shaft. Refer to
Figure 10.
Tighten
Tighten to 30 Nm (22 lb ft).
31. With the rack centered in the housing, tighten the adjuster plug (2) to 10 Nm (88 lb in), and then
back off 40 to 50 degrees. Refer to Figure 11. Check the torque on the pinion. Maximum pinion
preload torque is 4 Nm (35 lb in).
32. Tighten the adjuster plug lock nut (3) firmly against the steering gear housing while holding the
adjuster plug (2) stationary.
33. Install a new dust cap (2) to the steering gear housing.
34. Install the steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
35. Install the two bolts attaching the steering gear to the engine cradle.
Tighten
Tighten to 120 Nm (88 lb ft).
36. Connect the power steering fluid lines to the steering gear.
Tighten
Tighten to 27 Nm (20 lb ft).
37. Partially raise the rear of the engine cradle.
38. Connect the intermediate steering shaft to the steering gear and install the bolt.
Tighten
Tighten to 22 Nm (16 lb ft).
39. Install the stabilizer link bolts in both lower control arms.
Tighten
Tighten to 17 Nm (13 lb ft).
40. Raise the rear of the engine cradle and install the six bolts. Refer to Figure 12.
Tighten
^ Tighten the rear suspension crossmember bolts (1) to 110 Nm (81 lb ft).
^ Tighten the suspension crossmember to body bolts (2) to 82 Nm (60 lb ft).
41. Install the one bolt and two nuts that attach the rear transmission mount to the engine cradle.
Tighten
Tighten to 66 Nm (49 lb ft).
42. Install both outer tie rod ends to the knuckles.
Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 45 Nm (33 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 9072
43. Install both front tire and wheel assemblies.
Tighten
Tighten to 140 Nm (103 lb ft).
44. Lower the vehicle.
45. Check the power steering fluid level and add if necessary.
46. Check the alignment and set toe-in as necessary.
47. Close the hood.
Steering Gear Replacement, If Required -- 1997-1998 Chevrolet Malibu, 1997-1998 Oldsmobile
Cutlass
For additional information on steering gear removal, refer to the Steering section in the appropriate
Service Manual or SI.
Important
Steering gears currently available from GMSPO are verified good stock and do not require bearing
inspection or replacement.
The following service procedure is based on the steering gear having been removed from the
vehicle during the inspection procedure.
1. Remove the tie rod ends from the original steering gear.
2. Measure the position of the adjuster nuts on the old steering gear and adjust the new nuts on the
new steering gear to the same measurement.
3. Install the tie rod ends on the new steering gear.
Tighten
Tighten the adjuster nuts to 68 Nm (50 lb ft).
4. Install the new steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
5. Install the two bolts attaching the steering gear to the engine cradle.
Tighten
Tighten to 120 Nm (88 lb ft).
6. Connect the power steering fluid lines to the steering gear.
Tighten
Tighten to 27 Nm (20 lb ft).
7. Partially raise the rear of the engine cradle.
8. Connect the intermediate steering shaft to the steering gear and install the bolt.
Tighten
Tighten to 22 Nm (16 lb ft).
9. Install the stabilizer link bolts in both lower control arms.
Tighten
Tighten to 17 Nm (13 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 9073
10. Raise the rear of the engine cradle and install the six bolts. Refer to Figure 12.
Tighten
^ Tighten the rear suspension crossmember bolts (1) to 110 Nm (81 lb ft).
^ Tighten the suspension crossmember to body bolts (2) to 82 Nm (60 lb ft).
11. Install the one bolt and two nuts that attach the rear transmission mount to the engine cradle.
Tighten
Tighten to 66 Nm (49 lb ft).
12. Install both outer tie rod ends to the knuckles.
Tighten
Tighten to 45 Nm (33 lb ft).
13. Install both front tire and wheel assemblies.
Tighten
Tighten to 140 Nm (103 lb ft).
14. Lower the vehicle.
15. Add power steering fluid and bleed the system.
16. Check the alignment and set toe-in as necessary.
17. Close the hood.
97-98 Regal, 98 Intrigue
Lower Pinion Bearing Inspection -- 1997-1998 Buick Regal, 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
The following service procedure is for inspection of the lower pinion bearing and can be performed
without completely removing the steering gear from the vehicle.
Tools Required
^ J 44714-B Pinion Bearing Remover
^ J 24319-B Steering Linkage and Tie Rod Puller
1. Open the hood.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 9074
2. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist and support.
Important
When removing the dust cap in the next step, watch for loose ball bearings that may have
separated from the inner and outer pinion hearing races.
3. Remove the dust cap (3) from the steering gear housing (2) and inspect for loose ball bearings.
Refer to Figure 1.
^ If no ball bearings were found in the dust cap, proceed to the next step and replace the lower
pinion bearing.
^ If one or more ball bearings were found loose in the dust cap, proceed to the section in this
bulletin titled, "Steering Gear Replacement", for the described vehicles.
4. Support the rear of the engine frame (cradle) and remove the two rear attaching bolts.
5. Remove the left and right side stabilizer bar links from the lower control arms.
6. Reposition the stabilizer bar as necessary to improve access to the steering gear.
7. Remove the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle.
8. Remove the bolt and separate the intermediate steering shaft from the steering gear.
9. Lower the rear of the engine cradle as necessary to access the steering gear.
10. Remove the steering gear from the engine cradle mounting brackets and reposition to access
the adjuster plug lock nut and the adjuster plug. Do not remove the plug.
11. Loosen the adjuster plug lock nut (3) and the adjuster plug (2). Refer to Figure 2. Do not
remove the plug.
Important
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
12. While holding the stub shaft (1), remove the retaining nut (4) from the pinion shaft. Refer to
Figure 1. Do not reuse the nut.
13. Remove the lower retaining snap ring (1). Refer to Figure 3.
Important
Placement of a block of wood between the steering gear housing and the transmission case will
help to support the steering gear in the next step.
Important
The bearing retainer being removed in the next step is a small piece of wire that keeps all of the
ball bearings evenly spaced inside the the bearing races.
14. Using a small "pick" like too, remove the bearing retainer from the bearing. Refer to Figure 4.
15. After removing the bearing retainer, reposition the ball bearings into two groups of four. Refer to
Figure 5.
16. Separate the 2-legged puller from the center nut on the J 44714-B, Steering Linkage and Tie
Rod Puller, and insert the puller legs into the openings between the two groups of ball bearings.
17. With the forcing screw backed off, screw the center nut into the puller.
Tighten
Tighten the nut until it bottoms against the puller.
18. While holding the center nut with a wrench, tighten the forcing screw to remove the bearing
from the housing. See Figure 7.
Important
Inspect the gear housing to ensure that all pieces of the old bearing have been removed.
19. Apply a small quantity of lubrication (e.g. multi-purpose grease or power steering fluid) inside
the housing bore where the new bearing will be installed.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 9075
20. Center the new bearing over the pinion thread. The bearing can be installed with either side
facing outwards.
21. Place the bearing installer (1) J 44714-2 (included in J 44714-B) over the pinion thread. Refer
to Figure 8. If necessary, use the extension included with the installer. Lightly tap with a hammer
until the bearing is seated in the housing.
22. Install a new snap ring. Refer to Figure 9. When properly installed, the large lug (1) on the snap
ring must be on the right side as shown.
Important
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
23. While holding the stub shaft (1), install a new retaining nut (3) on the pinion shaft. Refer to
Figure 10.
Tighten
Tighten the retaining nut to 30 Nm (22 lb ft).
24. Install a new dust cap (2) to the steering gear housing.
25. Center the rack in the housing.
Tighten
Tighten the adjuster plug (2) to 10 Nm (88 lb in), and then back off 40 to 50 degrees (4). Refer to
Figure 11.
26. Check the torque on the pinion. Maximum pinion preload torque is 4 Nm (35 lb in).
27. Tighten the adjuster plug lock nut (3) firmly against the steering gear housing while holding the
adjuster plug (2) stationary.
28. Install the steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
29. Install the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle.
Tighten
Tighten to 80 Nm (59 lb ft).
30. Raise the rear of the engine cradle and install the rear attaching bolts.
Tighten
Tighten to 180 Nm (133 lb ft).
31. Connect the intermediate steering shaft to the steering gear and install the bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 48 Nm (35 lb ft).
32. Reposition the stabilizer bar.
33. Install the left and right side stabilizer bar links to the lower control arm.
Tighten
Tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb ft).
34. Lower the vehicle.
35. Check the power steering fluid and add if necessary.
Steering Gear Replacement, If Required -- 1997-1998 Buick Regal, 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
For additional information on steering gear removal, refer to the Steering section in the appropriate
Service Manual or SI.
The following service procedure is based on certain steps having already been performed in the
inspection procedure.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 9076
1. Remove the bolt and separate the intermediate steering shaft from the steering gear.
2. Support the rear of the engine frame (cradle) and remove the two rear attaching bolts.
3. Remove the left and right side stabilizer bar links from the lower control arms.
4. Reposition the stabilizer bar as necessary to improve access to the steering gear.
5. Remove the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle.
6. Lower the rear of the engine cradle as necessary to access the steering gear.
7. Loosen the outer tie rod end adjuster nuts.
8. Remove both wheel and tire assemblies.
9. Remove the nuts that attach the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles.
10. Using the J 24319-B (outer tie rod end puller) or equivalent, separate the tie rod ends from the
knuckles.
11. Disconnect the pressure and return lines from the steering gear.
12. If equipped, disconnect the electrical connector from the steering gear.
13. Remove the steering gear from the vehicle.
14. Remove the tie rod ends from the old steering gear.
15. Measure the position of the adjuster nuts on the old steering gear and adjust the new nuts on
the new steering gear to the same measurement.
16. Install the tie rod ends on the new steering gear.
Tighten
Tighten the adjuster nuts to 68 Nm (50 lb ft).
17. Install the new steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
18. If equipped, connect the electrical connector for the steering gear.
19. Install the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle.
Tighten
Tighten to 80 Nm (59 lb ft).
20. Connect the pressure and return lines to the steering gear.
Tighten
Tighten to 27 Nm (20 lb ft).
21. Install the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Install the retaining nuts.
Tighten
Tighten to 30 Nm (22 lb ft), plus 120 degrees (or 2 flats of the nut).
22. Raise the rear of the engine cradle and install the two rear attaching bolts.
Tighten
Tighten to 180 Nm (133 lb ft).
23. Install the intermediate steering shaft to the steering gear and install the bolt.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 9077
Tighten
Tighten to 48 Nm (35 lb ft).
24. Reposition the stabilizer bar.
25. Install the left and right side stabilizer bar links to the lower control arms.
Tighten
Tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb ft).
26. Install both wheel and tire assemblies. Install lug nuts.
Tighten
Tighten lug nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb ft).
27. Lower the vehicle.
28. Add power steering fluid and bleed the system.
29. Check the alignment and set toe-in as necessary.
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Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 9078
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion Bearing Separation > Page 9079
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-32-10 > Apr > 98 > Interior - Low Pitch Rattle, Clunk/Squeak From Front End
Steering Gear: Customer Interest Interior - Low Pitch Rattle, Clunk/Squeak From Front End
File In Section: 3 - Steering/Suspension
Bulletin No.: 73-32-10
Date: April, 1998
Subject: Low Pitch Rattle, Clunk and/or Squeak Noise Coming from Front End of Vehicle During
Low Speeds (Replace Lower Control Arms or Install Rack and Pinion Steering Gear)
Models: 1997-98 Chevrolet Malibu 1997-98 Oldsmobile Cutlass
Condition
Some owners may comment on a low pitch rattle, clunk and/or squeak noise coming from the front
of the vehicle while turning and/or driving straight ahead at low speeds, between 10-18 mph,
(16-29 km/h). This noise condition is most apparent when driving over rough/spalled concrete,
sharp bumps or broken pavement. A squeak noise may also be present during front end "jounce"
conditions.
Cause
This condition may be due to vibrations from the suspension damping the rough roads that are
being transmitted to the steering gear assembly.
Correction
Upon proper inspection, per the procedure in Section 3 - Steering/Suspension Diagnosis in the
Service Manual, one of two conditions may exist:
1. Front Suspension Noise (rattle, clunk and/or squeak) heard while driving straight ahead and/or
front end "jounce".
^ Replace both lower control arms, P/N 22606709 (left) and P/N 22606710 (right).
2. Front Suspension Noise (low pitch rattle and/or clunk) heard while turning.
^ Install a new rack and pinion steering gear assembly, P/N 26073200.
Important:
The new steering gear may result in a slight increase in steering effort while parking.
Important:
Before changing lower control arms and/or steering gear, exhaust all other possible sources of the
noise, using the Service Manual procedure. Also inspect for the following:
^ Damaged suspension components
^ Worn control arm bushings
^ Worn strut dampener or mounting
^ Rack bearing preload (Sec: 3B1A8)
^ Loose stabilizer shaft
^ Loose wheel nuts or covers
^ Spring improperly positioned
^ Loose tie rod ends
^ Loose steering gear mounting
^ Intermediate shaft boot mispositioned
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-32-10 > Apr > 98 > Interior - Low Pitch Rattle, Clunk/Squeak From Front End >
Page 9085
^ Power steering hose or line grounding out
Parts Information
P/N Description
26073200 Kit - Steering Gear
22606709 Lower Control Arm Assembly - LH
22606710 Lower Control Arm Assembly - RH
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
E9720 Use published labor operation time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation
Technical Service Bulletin # 03062 Date: 040129
Recall - Steering Gear Pinion Bearing Separation
Bulletin No: 03062
Date: January 29, 2004
RECALL
Product Safety - Power Steering Gear Lower Pinion Bearing Separation
Models: 1996-1998 Buick Regal 1997-1998 Chevrolet Lumina, Malibu, Monte Carlo 1997-1998
Oldsmobile Cutlass 1996-1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue 1996
Pontiac Grand Prix
Condition
General Motors has decided that a defect which relates to motor vehicle safety exists in certain
1996-1998 Buick Regal; 1997-1998 Chevrolet Lumina, Malibu, and Monte Carlo; 1997-1998
Oldsmobile Cutlass; 1996-1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme; 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue; and 1996
Pontiac Grand Prix vehicles. Some of these vehicles have a condition where the lower pinion
bearing in the power steering gear may separate. Most reports indicate the driver experienced an
intermittent loss of power steering assist when making left turns, usually at low speeds. Power
assist is normal in right hand turns. When trying to turn left, some drivers could experience higher
resistance or, in a few cases assist towards the right. If this happens while the vehicle is moving, a
crash could result.
Correction
Dealers are to inspect the condition of the lower pinion bearing and replace the lower pinion
bearing, or in a few cases, replace the rack and pinion steering gear assembly.
Vehicles Involved
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9091
Involved are certain 1996-1998 Buick Regal; 1997-1998 Chevrolet Lumina, Malibu, and Monte
Carlo; 1997-1998 Oldsmobile Cutlass; 1996-1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme; 1998 Oldsmobile
Intrigue; and 1996 Pontiac Grand Prix vehicles built within the VIN breakpoints shown.
Important
Dealers should confirm vehicle eligibility through GMVIS (GM Vehicle Inquiry System) before
beginning recall repairs [Not all vehicles within the above breakpoints may be involved.
For US
For dealers with involved vehicles, a Campaign Initiation Detail Report containing the complete
Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and address data has been prepared and will be
loaded to the GM DealerWorld, Recall Information website. The customer name and address data
furnished will enable dealers to follow up with customers involved in this program.
For Canada & IPC
Computer listings containing the complete Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and
address data of involved vehicles have been prepared, and are being furnished to involved dealers.
The customer name and address data will enable dealers to follow up with customers involved in
this recall. Any dealer not receiving a computer listing with the recall bulletin has no involved
vehicles currently assigned.
These dealer listings may contain customer names and addresses obtained from Motor Vehicle
Registration Records. The use of such motor vehicle registration data for any other purpose is a
violation of law in several provinces. Accordingly, you are urged to limit the use of this report to the
follow-up necessary to complete this program.
Parts Information
Parts Pre-Ship Information - For US and Canada
Important
An initial supply of steering gear pinion bearing kits required to complete this program will be
pre-shipped to involved dealers of record. This pre-shipment is scheduled to begin the week of
January 19, 2004 and will be approximately 20% of each dealers involved vehicles. Pre-shipped
parts will be charged to dealers open parts account.
Additional parts, if required, are to be obtained from General Motors Service Parts Operations
(GMSPO). Please refer to your "involved vehicles listing" before ordering parts. Normal orders
should be placed on a DRO = Daily Replenishment Order. In an emergency situation, parts should
be ordered on a CSO = Customer Special Order.
Special Tool
During the week of January 19, 2004, dealers who did not have vehicles involved in recall 02049,
will be shipped a Pinion Bearing Replacer, J 44714-B, for use in this recall. All other dealers were
shipped this tool in December 2002, for use in recall 02049. This tool is being furnished at no
charge. Additional tools, if required, may be purchased by contacting SPX Kent-Moore at
1-800-GM-TOOLS (1-800-468- 6657).
Customer Reimbursement - For US
All customer requests for reimbursement for previous repairs for the recall condition will be handled
by the Customer Assistance Center, not by dealers.
A General Motors Product Recall Customer Reimbursement Procedure Form is shown in this
bulletin.
Customer Reimbursement - For Canada
Customer requests for reimbursement of previously paid repairs to correct the condition addressed
in this bulletin are to be submitted by February 28, 2005.
All reasonable customer paid receipts should be considered for reimbursement. The amount to be
reimbursed will be limited to the amount the repair would have cost if completed by an authorized
General Motors dealer.
When a customer requests reimbursement, they must provide the following:
^ Proof of ownership at time of repair.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9092
^ Original paid receipt confirming the amount of repair expense(s) that were not reimbursed, a
description of the repair, and the person or entity performing the repair.
Claims for customer reimbursement on previously paid repairs are to be submitted as required by
WINS.
Important
Refer to the GM Service Policies and Procedure Manual, section 1.6.2, for specific procedures
reguarding Customer reimbursement verification.
Claim Information
Submit a Product Recall Claim with the information shown.
Refer to the General Motors WINS Claims Processing Manual for details on Product Recall Claim
Submission.
Customer Notification -- For US and Canada
General Motors will notify customers of this recall on their vehicle (see copy of customer letter
shown in this bulletin).
Customer Notification -- For IPC
Letters will be sent to known owners of record located within areas covered by the US National
Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. For owners
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9093
outside these areas, dealers should notify customers using the sample letter shown.
Dealer Recall Responsibility -- For US and IPC (US States, Territories, and Possessions)
The US National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act provides that each vehicle which is subject to
a recall of this type must be adequately repaired within a reasonable time after the customer has
tendered it for repair. A failure to repair within sixty days after tender of a vehicle is prima facie
evidence of failure to repair within a reasonable time. If the condition is not adequately repaired
within a reasonable time, the customer may be entitled to an identical or reasonably equivalent
vehicle at no charge or to a refund of the purchase price less a reasonable allowance for
depreciation. To avoid having to provide these burdensome remedies, every effort must be made
to promptly schedule an appointment with each customer and to repair their vehicle as soon as
possible. In the recall notification letters, customers are told how to contact the US National
Highway Traffic Safety Administration if the recall is not completed within a reasonable time.
Dealer Recall Responsibility -- All
All unsold new vehicles in dealers possession and subject to this recall MUST be held and
inspected/repaired per the service procedure of this recall bulletin BEFORE customers take
possession of these vehicles.
Dealers are to service all vehicles subject to this recall at no charge to customers, regardless of
mileage, age of vehicle, or ownership, from this time forward.
Customers who have recently purchased vehicles sold from your vehicle inventory, and for which
there is no customer information indicated on the dealer listing, are to be contacted by the dealer.
Arrangements are to be made to make the required correction according to the instructions
contained in this bulletin. A copy of the customer letter is shown in this bulletin for your use in
contacting customers. Recall follow-up cards should not be used for this purpose, since the
customer may not as yet have received the notification letter.
In summary, whenever a vehicle subject to this recall enters your vehicle inventory, or is in your
dealership for service in the future, please take the steps necessary to be sure the recall correction
has been made before selling or releasing the vehicle.
GENERAL MOTORS PRODUCT PROGRAM CUSTOMER REIMBURSEMENT PROCEDURE
If you have paid to have this recall condition corrected prior to receiving this notification, you may
be eligible to receive reimbursement.
Requests for reimbursement may include parts, labor, fees and taxes. Reimbursement may be
limited to the amount the repair would have cost if completed by an authorized General Motors
dealer. Your claim will be acted upon within 60 days of receipt.
If your claim is:
^ Approved, you will receive a check from General Motors.
^ Denied, you will receive a letter from General Motors with the reason(s) for the denial, or
^ Incomplete, you will receive a letter from General Motors identifying the documentation that is
needed to complete the claim and offered the opportunity to resubmit the claim when the missing
documentation is available.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9094
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9095
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9096
Please follow the instructions on the Claim Form shown to file a claim for reimbursement. If you
have questions about this reimbursement procedure, please call the toll-free telephone number
provided at the bottom of the form. If you need assistance with any other concern, please contact
the appropriate Customer Assistance Center at the number shown.
Disclaimer
Steering Gear Inspection For Involvement
Steering Gear Inspection for Involvement
If a vehicle has had the power steering gear lower pinion bearing or steering gear replaced with a
remanufactured GM steering gear assembly obtained from GMSPO or AC Delco prior to this recall,
the applicable service procedure below will still need to be performed on the vehicle.
If a vehicle had the power steering gear lower pinion bearing or steering gear replaced with a
non-GM design (aftermarket) steering gear, DO NOT perform this recall. Attempting to perform this
recall on a non-GM design steering gear may void the manufacturers warranty given to the
customer at the time of the purchase.
1. Inspect the steering gear housing for one of the GM design steering gear identifiers listed below.
^ A label on the housing indicating that the gear was remanufactured for GM or AC Delco.
^ An 8-digit casting or part number stamped in the rear side of the aluminum housing above or near
the left mounting hole.
^ An list, type logo in the aluminum housing.
2. If the steering gear housing has one of the identifier listed above, the recall must be performed.
Proceed to the appropriate procedure.
3. If the steering gear housing DOES NOT have one of the identifiers listed above, ensure that the
steering gear is non-GM design by contacting the customer and inquiring about where the vehicle
was previously repaired. If the customer indicates that the subject steering gear was installed by a
non-GM dealer, advise the customer that the recall does not apply, and if necessary, refer to
customer to the Customer Assistance Center for reimbursement.
96 Regal, 97-98 Lumina & Monte Carlo, 96-97 Cutlass Supreme , 96 Grand Prix
Lower Pinion Bearing Inspection -- 1996 Buick Regal; 1997-1998 Chevrolet Lumina, Monte Carlo;
1996-1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme; 1996 Pontiac Grand Prix
The following service procedure is for inspection of the lower pinion bearing and can be performed
without completely removing the steering gear from the vehicle.
Tools Required
^ J 44714-B Pinion Bearing Remover
^ J 24319-B Steering Linkage and Tie Rod Puller
1. Open the hood.
2. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist and support.
3. Remove the left front tire and wheel assembly.
4. Support the rear of the engine cradle and remove the two rear cradle attaching bolts.
5. Partially lower the rear of the engine cradle.
6. Remove the bolt and separate the intermediate steering shaft from the steering gear.
7. Lower the rear of the engine cradle as necessary to access and remove the steering gear
attaching bolts.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9097
8. On models equipped with a 3.4L engine, remove the two bolts that attach the heat shield that
covers the right steering gear attaching bolt. Remove the heat shield.
9. Remove the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle.
10. Remove the nut that attaches the outer left tie rod end to the steering knuckle.
11. Using the J 24319-B, Steering Linkage and Tie Rod Puller, or equivalent, separate the outer left
tie rod from the steering knuckle.
12. Remove the steering gear from the engine cradle mounting brackets and reposition to access
the dust cap (3). Refer to Figure 1.
Important
When removing the dust cap in the next step, watch for loose ball hearings that may have
separated from the inner and outer pinion bearing races.
13. Remove the dust cap (3) from the steering gear housing (2) and inspect for loose ball bearings.
Refer to Figure 1.
^ If no ball bearings were found in the dust cap, proceed to the next step and replace the lower
pinion bearing.
^ If one or more ball bearings were found loose in the dust cap, proceed to the section in this
bulletin titled, "Steering Gear Replacement," for the described vehicle.
14. Reposition the steering gear as necessary to access the adjuster plug lock nut and the adjuster
plug.
Notice
Failure to perform the next step may result in damage to the lower pinion bearing removal tool, J
44714-1.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9098
15. Loosen the adjuster plug nut (3) and the adjuster plug (2). Refer to Figure 2. Do not remove the
plug.
Notice
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
16. While holding the stub shaft (1), remove the retaining nut (4) from the pinon shaft. Refer to
Figure 1. Do not reuse the nut.
17. Remove the lower retaining snap ring (1). Refer to Figure 3.
Important
The bearing retainer being removed in the next step is a small piece of wire that keeps all the bail
bearings evenly spaced inside the bearing races.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9099
18. Using a small "pick" like tool, remove the bearing retainer from the bearing. Refer to Figure 4.
19. After removing the bearing retainer, reposition the ball bearings into two groups of four. Refer to
Figure 5
20. Separate the 2-legged puller from the center nut on the J 44714-B and insert the puller legs into
the openings between the two groups of ball bearings.
21. With the forcing screw back off, screw the center nut into the puller and tighten until the nut
bottoms against the puller. Refer to Figure 6.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9100
22. While holding the center nut with a wrench, tighten the forcing screw to remove the bearing
from the housing. Refer to Figure 7.
Important
Inspect the gear housing to ensure that all pieces of the old bearing have been removed.
23. Apply a small quantity of lubrication (e.g., multi-purpose grease or power steering fluid) inside
of the housing bore where the new bearing will be installed.
24. Center the new bearing over the pinion thread. The bearing can be installed with either side
facing outwards.
25. Place the bearing installer (1) J 44714-2 (included in J 44714-B) over the pinion thread. Refer
to Figure 8. If necessary, use the extension included with the installer. Lightly tap the bearing
installer with a hammer until the bearing is seated in the housing.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9101
26. Install a new snap ring. When properly installed, the large lug (1) on the snap ring must be on
the right side as shown in Figure 9.
Important
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
27. While holding the stub shaft (1), install a new retaining nut (3) on the pinion shaft. Refer to
Figure 10.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 30 Nm (22 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9102
28. With the rack centered in the housing, tighten the adjuster plug (2) to 10 Nm (88 lb in), and then
back off 40 to 50 degrees. Refer to Figure 11. Check the torque on the pinion. Maximum pinion
preload torque is 4 Nm (35 lb in).
29. Tighten the adjuster plug lock nut (3) firmly against the steering gear housing while holding the
adjuster plug (2) stationary.
30. Install a new dust cap (2) to the steering gear housing.
31. Install the steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
32. Install the steering gear attaching bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 80 Nm (59 lb ft).
33. On models equipped with a 3.4L engine, install the heat shield and attaching bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 6 Nm (54 lb in).
34. Install the left outer tie rod to the steering knuckle. On models with a torque prevailing nut,
tighten the nut to 30 Nm (22 lb ft) and then tighten an additional 115 degrees. On models with a
slotted nut and cotter pin, tighten the nut to 85 Nm (63 lb ft). If necessary, tighten the nut slightly in
order to insert the cotter pin through the tie rod stud. Bend the cotter pin ends against the flats of
the nuts.
35. Partially raise the rear of the engine cradle.
36. Connect the intermediate steering shaft to the steering gear and install the bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 48 Nm (35 lb ft).
37. Raise the rear of the engine cradle and install the rear attaching bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 180 Nm (133 lb ft).
38. Install the left front tire and wheel assembly.
Tighten
Tighten the wheel nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb ft).
39. Lower the vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9103
40. Check the power steering fluid level and add if necessary.
41. Check the alignment and set toe-in as necessary.
42. Close the hood.
Steering Gear Replacement, If Required -- 1996 Buick Regal, 1997-1998 Chevrolet Lumina, Monte
Carlo, 1996-1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, 1996 Pontiac Grand Prix
For additional information on steering gear removal, refer to the Steering section in the appropriate
Service Manual or SI.
Important
Steering gears currently available from GMSPO are verified good stock and do not require bearing
inspection or replacement.
The following service procedure is based on certain steps having already been performed in the
inspection procedure.
1. Remove the right front tire and wheel assembly.
2. Remove the nut that attaches the outer right tie rod end to the steering knuckle.
3. Using the J 24319-B, or equivalent, separate the outer right tie rod end from the steering
knuckle.
4. If equipped, disconnect the electrical connector form the switch on the steering gear.
5. Place the steering gear back inside of the mounting brackets on the engine cradle.
6. If equipped, release the strap that attaches the power steering fluid lines to the steering gear.
7. Loosen and disconnect both power steering fluid lines from the steering gear.
8. Remove the steering gear form the vehicle.
9. Remove the tie rod ends from the original steering gear.
10. Measure the position of the adjuster nuts on the old steering gear and adjust the new nuts on
the new steering gear to the same measurement.
11. Install the tie rod ends on the new steering gear.
Tighten
Tighten the adjuster nuts to 68 Nm (50 lb ft).
12. If equipped, transfer the switch to the new steering gear.
13. Install the new steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
14. Install the steering gear attaching bolts.
Tighten
Tighten to 80 Nm (59 lb ft).
15. Connect the power steering fluid lines to the steering gear.
Tighten
Tighten to 27 Nm (20 lb ft).
16. If equipped, connect the electrical connector to the switch on the steering gear.
17. On models equipped with a 3.4L engine, install the heat shield and attaching bolts.
Tighten
Tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb in).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9104
18. Install both outer tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. On models with torque prevailing nuts,
tighten the nut to 30 Nm (22 lb ft) and then tighten an additional 115 degrees. On models with a
slotted nut and cotter pin, tighten the nut to 85 Nm (63 lb ft). If necessary, tighten the nut slightly in
order to insert the cotter pin through the tie rod stud. Bend the cotter pin ends against the flats of
the nuts.
19. Partially raise the rear of the engine cradle.
20. Connect the intermediate steering shaft to the steering gear and install the bolt.
Tighten
Tighten to 48 Nm (35 lb ft).
21. Raise the rear of the engine cradle and install the rear attaching bolts.
Tighten
Tighten to 180 Nm (133 lb ft).
22. Install both front tire and wheel assemblies.
Tighten
Tighten the wheel nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb ft).
23. Lower the vehicle.
24. Add power steering fluid and bleed the system.
25. Check the alignment and set toe-in as necessary.
26. Close the hood.
97-98 Malibu, 97-98 Cutlass
Lower Pinion Bearing Inspection -- 1997-1998 Chevrolet Malibu, 1997-1998 Oldsmobile Cutlass
Because of limited access in this vehicle, the pinion bearing can only be inspected after the
steering gear has been completely removed from the vehicle. For additional information on steering
gear removal, refer to the Steering section in the appropriate Service Manual or SI.
Tools Required
^ J 44714-B Pinion Bearing Remover
^ J 24319-B Steering Linkage and Tie Rod Puller
1. Open the hood.
2. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist and support.
3. Remove both front tire and wheel assemblies.
4. Remove the nuts securing the outer tie rod ends to the steering knuckles.
5. Using the J 24319-B, Steering Linkage and Tie Rod Puller, or equivalent, separate the outer tie
rod ends from the steering knuckles.
6. Remove the one bolts and two nuts attaching the rear transmission mount to the engine cradle.
7. Support the rear of the engine cradle.
8. Remove the six bolts that attach the rear of the engine cradle to the body.
9. Partially lower the rear of the engine cradle.
10. Remove the bolt and separate the intermediate steering shaft from the steering gear.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9105
11. Remove the stabilizer link bolts from both lower control arms.
12. Lower the rear of the engine cradle as necessary to access the steering gear attaching bolts.
13. Remove the two bolts attaching the steering gear to the engine cradle.
14. Loosen and disconnect both power steering fluid lines from the steering gear.
15. Remove the steering gear from the engine cradle mounting brackets.
16. Remove the steering gear from the vehicle.
Important
When removing the dust cap in the next step, watch for loose ball bearings that may have
separated from the inner and outer pinion bearing races.
17. Remove the dust cap (3) from the steering gear housing (2) and inspect for loose ball bearings.
Refer to Figure 1.
^ If no ball bearings were found in the dust cap, proceed to the next step and replace the lower
pinion bearing.
^ If one or more ball bearings were found loose in the dust cap, proceed to the section in this
bulletin titled, "Steering Gear Replacement", for the described vehicle.
Notice
Failure to perform the next step may result in damage to the lower pinion bearing removal tool J
44714-1.
18. Loosen the adjuster plug lock nut (3) and the adjuster plug (2). Refer to Figure 2. Do not
remove the plug.
Notice
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
19. While holding the stub shaft (1), remove the retaining nut (4) from the pinion shaft. Refer to
Figure 1. Do not reuse the nut.
20. Remove the lower retaining snap ring (1). Refer to Figure 3.
Important
The bearing retainer being removed in the next step is a small piece of wire that keeps all of the
bearings evenly spaced inside the bearing races.
21. Using a small "pick" like tool, remove the bearing retainer from the bearing. Refer to Figure 4.
22. After removing the bearing retainer, reposition the ball bearings into two groups of four. Refer to
Figure 5.
23. Separate the 2-legged puller from the center nut on the J 44714-B and insert the puller legs into
the openings between the two groups of ball bearings.
24. With the forcing screw backed off, screw the center nut into the puller.
Tighten
Tighten the nut until it bottoms against the puller. Refer to Figure 6.
25. While holding the center nut with a wrench, tighten the forcing screw to remove the bearing
from the housing. Refer to Figure 7.
Important
Inspect the gear housing to ensure that all pieces of the old bearing have been removed.
26. Apply a small quantity of lubrication (e.g., multi-purpose grease or power steering fluid) inside
of the housing bore where the new bearing will be installed.
27. Center the new bearing over the pinion thread. The bearing can be installed with either side
facing outwards.
28. Place the bearing installer (1), J 44714-2 (included in J 44714-B) over the pinion thread. Refer
to Figure 8. Lightly tap the bearing installer with a hammer until the bearing is seated in the
housing.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9106
29. Install a new snap ring. When properly installed, the large lug (1) on the snap ring must be on
the right side as shown in Figure 9.
Notice
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
30. While holding the stub shaft (1) install a new retaining nut (3) on the pinion shaft. Refer to
Figure 10.
Tighten
Tighten to 30 Nm (22 lb ft).
31. With the rack centered in the housing, tighten the adjuster plug (2) to 10 Nm (88 lb in), and then
back off 40 to 50 degrees. Refer to Figure 11. Check the torque on the pinion. Maximum pinion
preload torque is 4 Nm (35 lb in).
32. Tighten the adjuster plug lock nut (3) firmly against the steering gear housing while holding the
adjuster plug (2) stationary.
33. Install a new dust cap (2) to the steering gear housing.
34. Install the steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
35. Install the two bolts attaching the steering gear to the engine cradle.
Tighten
Tighten to 120 Nm (88 lb ft).
36. Connect the power steering fluid lines to the steering gear.
Tighten
Tighten to 27 Nm (20 lb ft).
37. Partially raise the rear of the engine cradle.
38. Connect the intermediate steering shaft to the steering gear and install the bolt.
Tighten
Tighten to 22 Nm (16 lb ft).
39. Install the stabilizer link bolts in both lower control arms.
Tighten
Tighten to 17 Nm (13 lb ft).
40. Raise the rear of the engine cradle and install the six bolts. Refer to Figure 12.
Tighten
^ Tighten the rear suspension crossmember bolts (1) to 110 Nm (81 lb ft).
^ Tighten the suspension crossmember to body bolts (2) to 82 Nm (60 lb ft).
41. Install the one bolt and two nuts that attach the rear transmission mount to the engine cradle.
Tighten
Tighten to 66 Nm (49 lb ft).
42. Install both outer tie rod ends to the knuckles.
Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 45 Nm (33 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9107
43. Install both front tire and wheel assemblies.
Tighten
Tighten to 140 Nm (103 lb ft).
44. Lower the vehicle.
45. Check the power steering fluid level and add if necessary.
46. Check the alignment and set toe-in as necessary.
47. Close the hood.
Steering Gear Replacement, If Required -- 1997-1998 Chevrolet Malibu, 1997-1998 Oldsmobile
Cutlass
For additional information on steering gear removal, refer to the Steering section in the appropriate
Service Manual or SI.
Important
Steering gears currently available from GMSPO are verified good stock and do not require bearing
inspection or replacement.
The following service procedure is based on the steering gear having been removed from the
vehicle during the inspection procedure.
1. Remove the tie rod ends from the original steering gear.
2. Measure the position of the adjuster nuts on the old steering gear and adjust the new nuts on the
new steering gear to the same measurement.
3. Install the tie rod ends on the new steering gear.
Tighten
Tighten the adjuster nuts to 68 Nm (50 lb ft).
4. Install the new steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
5. Install the two bolts attaching the steering gear to the engine cradle.
Tighten
Tighten to 120 Nm (88 lb ft).
6. Connect the power steering fluid lines to the steering gear.
Tighten
Tighten to 27 Nm (20 lb ft).
7. Partially raise the rear of the engine cradle.
8. Connect the intermediate steering shaft to the steering gear and install the bolt.
Tighten
Tighten to 22 Nm (16 lb ft).
9. Install the stabilizer link bolts in both lower control arms.
Tighten
Tighten to 17 Nm (13 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9108
10. Raise the rear of the engine cradle and install the six bolts. Refer to Figure 12.
Tighten
^ Tighten the rear suspension crossmember bolts (1) to 110 Nm (81 lb ft).
^ Tighten the suspension crossmember to body bolts (2) to 82 Nm (60 lb ft).
11. Install the one bolt and two nuts that attach the rear transmission mount to the engine cradle.
Tighten
Tighten to 66 Nm (49 lb ft).
12. Install both outer tie rod ends to the knuckles.
Tighten
Tighten to 45 Nm (33 lb ft).
13. Install both front tire and wheel assemblies.
Tighten
Tighten to 140 Nm (103 lb ft).
14. Lower the vehicle.
15. Add power steering fluid and bleed the system.
16. Check the alignment and set toe-in as necessary.
17. Close the hood.
97-98 Regal, 98 Intrigue
Lower Pinion Bearing Inspection -- 1997-1998 Buick Regal, 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
The following service procedure is for inspection of the lower pinion bearing and can be performed
without completely removing the steering gear from the vehicle.
Tools Required
^ J 44714-B Pinion Bearing Remover
^ J 24319-B Steering Linkage and Tie Rod Puller
1. Open the hood.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9109
2. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist and support.
Important
When removing the dust cap in the next step, watch for loose ball bearings that may have
separated from the inner and outer pinion hearing races.
3. Remove the dust cap (3) from the steering gear housing (2) and inspect for loose ball bearings.
Refer to Figure 1.
^ If no ball bearings were found in the dust cap, proceed to the next step and replace the lower
pinion bearing.
^ If one or more ball bearings were found loose in the dust cap, proceed to the section in this
bulletin titled, "Steering Gear Replacement", for the described vehicles.
4. Support the rear of the engine frame (cradle) and remove the two rear attaching bolts.
5. Remove the left and right side stabilizer bar links from the lower control arms.
6. Reposition the stabilizer bar as necessary to improve access to the steering gear.
7. Remove the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle.
8. Remove the bolt and separate the intermediate steering shaft from the steering gear.
9. Lower the rear of the engine cradle as necessary to access the steering gear.
10. Remove the steering gear from the engine cradle mounting brackets and reposition to access
the adjuster plug lock nut and the adjuster plug. Do not remove the plug.
11. Loosen the adjuster plug lock nut (3) and the adjuster plug (2). Refer to Figure 2. Do not
remove the plug.
Important
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
12. While holding the stub shaft (1), remove the retaining nut (4) from the pinion shaft. Refer to
Figure 1. Do not reuse the nut.
13. Remove the lower retaining snap ring (1). Refer to Figure 3.
Important
Placement of a block of wood between the steering gear housing and the transmission case will
help to support the steering gear in the next step.
Important
The bearing retainer being removed in the next step is a small piece of wire that keeps all of the
ball bearings evenly spaced inside the the bearing races.
14. Using a small "pick" like too, remove the bearing retainer from the bearing. Refer to Figure 4.
15. After removing the bearing retainer, reposition the ball bearings into two groups of four. Refer to
Figure 5.
16. Separate the 2-legged puller from the center nut on the J 44714-B, Steering Linkage and Tie
Rod Puller, and insert the puller legs into the openings between the two groups of ball bearings.
17. With the forcing screw backed off, screw the center nut into the puller.
Tighten
Tighten the nut until it bottoms against the puller.
18. While holding the center nut with a wrench, tighten the forcing screw to remove the bearing
from the housing. See Figure 7.
Important
Inspect the gear housing to ensure that all pieces of the old bearing have been removed.
19. Apply a small quantity of lubrication (e.g. multi-purpose grease or power steering fluid) inside
the housing bore where the new bearing will be installed.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9110
20. Center the new bearing over the pinion thread. The bearing can be installed with either side
facing outwards.
21. Place the bearing installer (1) J 44714-2 (included in J 44714-B) over the pinion thread. Refer
to Figure 8. If necessary, use the extension included with the installer. Lightly tap with a hammer
until the bearing is seated in the housing.
22. Install a new snap ring. Refer to Figure 9. When properly installed, the large lug (1) on the snap
ring must be on the right side as shown.
Important
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
23. While holding the stub shaft (1), install a new retaining nut (3) on the pinion shaft. Refer to
Figure 10.
Tighten
Tighten the retaining nut to 30 Nm (22 lb ft).
24. Install a new dust cap (2) to the steering gear housing.
25. Center the rack in the housing.
Tighten
Tighten the adjuster plug (2) to 10 Nm (88 lb in), and then back off 40 to 50 degrees (4). Refer to
Figure 11.
26. Check the torque on the pinion. Maximum pinion preload torque is 4 Nm (35 lb in).
27. Tighten the adjuster plug lock nut (3) firmly against the steering gear housing while holding the
adjuster plug (2) stationary.
28. Install the steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
29. Install the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle.
Tighten
Tighten to 80 Nm (59 lb ft).
30. Raise the rear of the engine cradle and install the rear attaching bolts.
Tighten
Tighten to 180 Nm (133 lb ft).
31. Connect the intermediate steering shaft to the steering gear and install the bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 48 Nm (35 lb ft).
32. Reposition the stabilizer bar.
33. Install the left and right side stabilizer bar links to the lower control arm.
Tighten
Tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb ft).
34. Lower the vehicle.
35. Check the power steering fluid and add if necessary.
Steering Gear Replacement, If Required -- 1997-1998 Buick Regal, 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
For additional information on steering gear removal, refer to the Steering section in the appropriate
Service Manual or SI.
The following service procedure is based on certain steps having already been performed in the
inspection procedure.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9111
1. Remove the bolt and separate the intermediate steering shaft from the steering gear.
2. Support the rear of the engine frame (cradle) and remove the two rear attaching bolts.
3. Remove the left and right side stabilizer bar links from the lower control arms.
4. Reposition the stabilizer bar as necessary to improve access to the steering gear.
5. Remove the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle.
6. Lower the rear of the engine cradle as necessary to access the steering gear.
7. Loosen the outer tie rod end adjuster nuts.
8. Remove both wheel and tire assemblies.
9. Remove the nuts that attach the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles.
10. Using the J 24319-B (outer tie rod end puller) or equivalent, separate the tie rod ends from the
knuckles.
11. Disconnect the pressure and return lines from the steering gear.
12. If equipped, disconnect the electrical connector from the steering gear.
13. Remove the steering gear from the vehicle.
14. Remove the tie rod ends from the old steering gear.
15. Measure the position of the adjuster nuts on the old steering gear and adjust the new nuts on
the new steering gear to the same measurement.
16. Install the tie rod ends on the new steering gear.
Tighten
Tighten the adjuster nuts to 68 Nm (50 lb ft).
17. Install the new steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
18. If equipped, connect the electrical connector for the steering gear.
19. Install the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle.
Tighten
Tighten to 80 Nm (59 lb ft).
20. Connect the pressure and return lines to the steering gear.
Tighten
Tighten to 27 Nm (20 lb ft).
21. Install the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Install the retaining nuts.
Tighten
Tighten to 30 Nm (22 lb ft), plus 120 degrees (or 2 flats of the nut).
22. Raise the rear of the engine cradle and install the two rear attaching bolts.
Tighten
Tighten to 180 Nm (133 lb ft).
23. Install the intermediate steering shaft to the steering gear and install the bolt.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9112
Tighten
Tighten to 48 Nm (35 lb ft).
24. Reposition the stabilizer bar.
25. Install the left and right side stabilizer bar links to the lower control arms.
Tighten
Tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb ft).
26. Install both wheel and tire assemblies. Install lug nuts.
Tighten
Tighten lug nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb ft).
27. Lower the vehicle.
28. Add power steering fluid and bleed the system.
29. Check the alignment and set toe-in as necessary.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9113
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9114
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 83-32-10 > Nov > 98 > Tools - Adjuster Locknut
Wrench
Steering Gear: All Technical Service Bulletins Tools - Adjuster Locknut Wrench
File In Section: 3 - Steering/Suspension
Bulletin No.: 83-32-10
Date: November, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: Essential Tool J 43435 Adjuster Locknut Wrench
Models: 1990-99 Passenger Cars and Trucks with Integral Power Steering
A new essential tool, J 43435 Adjuster Locknut Wrench, has been sent to all GM Dealers. This tool
should be used on all Integral power steering gears, both past and current models.
The following procedure should be used In place of existing Service Manual procedures for
Coupling Shield and Locknut Removal and Replacement. The correct adjustment procedure and
use of the essential tools are critical to restore the vehicle "On Center" feel (See Figure 1).
Important:
Coupling shield retainer and locknut assembly replacement procedures require the following
special tools:
J 42882 Adjuster Nut Wrench J 43435 Adjuster Locknut Wrench
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 83-32-10 > Nov > 98 > Tools - Adjuster Locknut
Wrench > Page 9119
(See Figure 2)
Procedure
1. Place J 42882 over the end of the stub shaft. Place J 43435 over the end. J 43435 is reversible
and can be used with both old and new style coupling shield retainers and locknuts.
2. Tighten the coupling shield retainer and locknut assembly after an adjustment or repair has been
made to the power steering gear to the specified torque (See Figure 3).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 73-32-10 > Apr > 98 > Interior - Low Pitch Rattle,
Clunk/Squeak From Front End
Steering Gear: All Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Low Pitch Rattle, Clunk/Squeak From Front
End
File In Section: 3 - Steering/Suspension
Bulletin No.: 73-32-10
Date: April, 1998
Subject: Low Pitch Rattle, Clunk and/or Squeak Noise Coming from Front End of Vehicle During
Low Speeds (Replace Lower Control Arms or Install Rack and Pinion Steering Gear)
Models: 1997-98 Chevrolet Malibu 1997-98 Oldsmobile Cutlass
Condition
Some owners may comment on a low pitch rattle, clunk and/or squeak noise coming from the front
of the vehicle while turning and/or driving straight ahead at low speeds, between 10-18 mph,
(16-29 km/h). This noise condition is most apparent when driving over rough/spalled concrete,
sharp bumps or broken pavement. A squeak noise may also be present during front end "jounce"
conditions.
Cause
This condition may be due to vibrations from the suspension damping the rough roads that are
being transmitted to the steering gear assembly.
Correction
Upon proper inspection, per the procedure in Section 3 - Steering/Suspension Diagnosis in the
Service Manual, one of two conditions may exist:
1. Front Suspension Noise (rattle, clunk and/or squeak) heard while driving straight ahead and/or
front end "jounce".
^ Replace both lower control arms, P/N 22606709 (left) and P/N 22606710 (right).
2. Front Suspension Noise (low pitch rattle and/or clunk) heard while turning.
^ Install a new rack and pinion steering gear assembly, P/N 26073200.
Important:
The new steering gear may result in a slight increase in steering effort while parking.
Important:
Before changing lower control arms and/or steering gear, exhaust all other possible sources of the
noise, using the Service Manual procedure. Also inspect for the following:
^ Damaged suspension components
^ Worn control arm bushings
^ Worn strut dampener or mounting
^ Rack bearing preload (Sec: 3B1A8)
^ Loose stabilizer shaft
^ Loose wheel nuts or covers
^ Spring improperly positioned
^ Loose tie rod ends
^ Loose steering gear mounting
^ Intermediate shaft boot mispositioned
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 73-32-10 > Apr > 98 > Interior - Low Pitch Rattle,
Clunk/Squeak From Front End > Page 9124
^ Power steering hose or line grounding out
Parts Information
P/N Description
26073200 Kit - Steering Gear
22606709 Lower Control Arm Assembly - LH
22606710 Lower Control Arm Assembly - RH
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
E9720 Use published labor operation time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 83-32-10 > Nov > 98 > Tools - Adjuster Locknut Wrench
Steering Gear: All Technical Service Bulletins Tools - Adjuster Locknut Wrench
File In Section: 3 - Steering/Suspension
Bulletin No.: 83-32-10
Date: November, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: Essential Tool J 43435 Adjuster Locknut Wrench
Models: 1990-99 Passenger Cars and Trucks with Integral Power Steering
A new essential tool, J 43435 Adjuster Locknut Wrench, has been sent to all GM Dealers. This tool
should be used on all Integral power steering gears, both past and current models.
The following procedure should be used In place of existing Service Manual procedures for
Coupling Shield and Locknut Removal and Replacement. The correct adjustment procedure and
use of the essential tools are critical to restore the vehicle "On Center" feel (See Figure 1).
Important:
Coupling shield retainer and locknut assembly replacement procedures require the following
special tools:
J 42882 Adjuster Nut Wrench J 43435 Adjuster Locknut Wrench
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 83-32-10 > Nov > 98 > Tools - Adjuster Locknut Wrench
> Page 9130
(See Figure 2)
Procedure
1. Place J 42882 over the end of the stub shaft. Place J 43435 over the end. J 43435 is reversible
and can be used with both old and new style coupling shield retainers and locknuts.
2. Tighten the coupling shield retainer and locknut assembly after an adjustment or repair has been
made to the power steering gear to the specified torque (See Figure 3).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 73-32-10 > Apr > 98 > Interior - Low Pitch Rattle,
Clunk/Squeak From Front End
Steering Gear: All Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Low Pitch Rattle, Clunk/Squeak From Front
End
File In Section: 3 - Steering/Suspension
Bulletin No.: 73-32-10
Date: April, 1998
Subject: Low Pitch Rattle, Clunk and/or Squeak Noise Coming from Front End of Vehicle During
Low Speeds (Replace Lower Control Arms or Install Rack and Pinion Steering Gear)
Models: 1997-98 Chevrolet Malibu 1997-98 Oldsmobile Cutlass
Condition
Some owners may comment on a low pitch rattle, clunk and/or squeak noise coming from the front
of the vehicle while turning and/or driving straight ahead at low speeds, between 10-18 mph,
(16-29 km/h). This noise condition is most apparent when driving over rough/spalled concrete,
sharp bumps or broken pavement. A squeak noise may also be present during front end "jounce"
conditions.
Cause
This condition may be due to vibrations from the suspension damping the rough roads that are
being transmitted to the steering gear assembly.
Correction
Upon proper inspection, per the procedure in Section 3 - Steering/Suspension Diagnosis in the
Service Manual, one of two conditions may exist:
1. Front Suspension Noise (rattle, clunk and/or squeak) heard while driving straight ahead and/or
front end "jounce".
^ Replace both lower control arms, P/N 22606709 (left) and P/N 22606710 (right).
2. Front Suspension Noise (low pitch rattle and/or clunk) heard while turning.
^ Install a new rack and pinion steering gear assembly, P/N 26073200.
Important:
The new steering gear may result in a slight increase in steering effort while parking.
Important:
Before changing lower control arms and/or steering gear, exhaust all other possible sources of the
noise, using the Service Manual procedure. Also inspect for the following:
^ Damaged suspension components
^ Worn control arm bushings
^ Worn strut dampener or mounting
^ Rack bearing preload (Sec: 3B1A8)
^ Loose stabilizer shaft
^ Loose wheel nuts or covers
^ Spring improperly positioned
^ Loose tie rod ends
^ Loose steering gear mounting
^ Intermediate shaft boot mispositioned
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 73-32-10 > Apr > 98 > Interior - Low Pitch Rattle,
Clunk/Squeak From Front End > Page 9135
^ Power steering hose or line grounding out
Parts Information
P/N Description
26073200 Kit - Steering Gear
22606709 Lower Control Arm Assembly - LH
22606710 Lower Control Arm Assembly - RH
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
E9720 Use published labor operation time
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation
Technical Service Bulletin # 03062 Date: 040129
Recall - Steering Gear Pinion Bearing Separation
Bulletin No: 03062
Date: January 29, 2004
RECALL
Product Safety - Power Steering Gear Lower Pinion Bearing Separation
Models: 1996-1998 Buick Regal 1997-1998 Chevrolet Lumina, Malibu, Monte Carlo 1997-1998
Oldsmobile Cutlass 1996-1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue 1996
Pontiac Grand Prix
Condition
General Motors has decided that a defect which relates to motor vehicle safety exists in certain
1996-1998 Buick Regal; 1997-1998 Chevrolet Lumina, Malibu, and Monte Carlo; 1997-1998
Oldsmobile Cutlass; 1996-1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme; 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue; and 1996
Pontiac Grand Prix vehicles. Some of these vehicles have a condition where the lower pinion
bearing in the power steering gear may separate. Most reports indicate the driver experienced an
intermittent loss of power steering assist when making left turns, usually at low speeds. Power
assist is normal in right hand turns. When trying to turn left, some drivers could experience higher
resistance or, in a few cases assist towards the right. If this happens while the vehicle is moving, a
crash could result.
Correction
Dealers are to inspect the condition of the lower pinion bearing and replace the lower pinion
bearing, or in a few cases, replace the rack and pinion steering gear assembly.
Vehicles Involved
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9141
Involved are certain 1996-1998 Buick Regal; 1997-1998 Chevrolet Lumina, Malibu, and Monte
Carlo; 1997-1998 Oldsmobile Cutlass; 1996-1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme; 1998 Oldsmobile
Intrigue; and 1996 Pontiac Grand Prix vehicles built within the VIN breakpoints shown.
Important
Dealers should confirm vehicle eligibility through GMVIS (GM Vehicle Inquiry System) before
beginning recall repairs [Not all vehicles within the above breakpoints may be involved.
For US
For dealers with involved vehicles, a Campaign Initiation Detail Report containing the complete
Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and address data has been prepared and will be
loaded to the GM DealerWorld, Recall Information website. The customer name and address data
furnished will enable dealers to follow up with customers involved in this program.
For Canada & IPC
Computer listings containing the complete Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and
address data of involved vehicles have been prepared, and are being furnished to involved dealers.
The customer name and address data will enable dealers to follow up with customers involved in
this recall. Any dealer not receiving a computer listing with the recall bulletin has no involved
vehicles currently assigned.
These dealer listings may contain customer names and addresses obtained from Motor Vehicle
Registration Records. The use of such motor vehicle registration data for any other purpose is a
violation of law in several provinces. Accordingly, you are urged to limit the use of this report to the
follow-up necessary to complete this program.
Parts Information
Parts Pre-Ship Information - For US and Canada
Important
An initial supply of steering gear pinion bearing kits required to complete this program will be
pre-shipped to involved dealers of record. This pre-shipment is scheduled to begin the week of
January 19, 2004 and will be approximately 20% of each dealers involved vehicles. Pre-shipped
parts will be charged to dealers open parts account.
Additional parts, if required, are to be obtained from General Motors Service Parts Operations
(GMSPO). Please refer to your "involved vehicles listing" before ordering parts. Normal orders
should be placed on a DRO = Daily Replenishment Order. In an emergency situation, parts should
be ordered on a CSO = Customer Special Order.
Special Tool
During the week of January 19, 2004, dealers who did not have vehicles involved in recall 02049,
will be shipped a Pinion Bearing Replacer, J 44714-B, for use in this recall. All other dealers were
shipped this tool in December 2002, for use in recall 02049. This tool is being furnished at no
charge. Additional tools, if required, may be purchased by contacting SPX Kent-Moore at
1-800-GM-TOOLS (1-800-468- 6657).
Customer Reimbursement - For US
All customer requests for reimbursement for previous repairs for the recall condition will be handled
by the Customer Assistance Center, not by dealers.
A General Motors Product Recall Customer Reimbursement Procedure Form is shown in this
bulletin.
Customer Reimbursement - For Canada
Customer requests for reimbursement of previously paid repairs to correct the condition addressed
in this bulletin are to be submitted by February 28, 2005.
All reasonable customer paid receipts should be considered for reimbursement. The amount to be
reimbursed will be limited to the amount the repair would have cost if completed by an authorized
General Motors dealer.
When a customer requests reimbursement, they must provide the following:
^ Proof of ownership at time of repair.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9142
^ Original paid receipt confirming the amount of repair expense(s) that were not reimbursed, a
description of the repair, and the person or entity performing the repair.
Claims for customer reimbursement on previously paid repairs are to be submitted as required by
WINS.
Important
Refer to the GM Service Policies and Procedure Manual, section 1.6.2, for specific procedures
reguarding Customer reimbursement verification.
Claim Information
Submit a Product Recall Claim with the information shown.
Refer to the General Motors WINS Claims Processing Manual for details on Product Recall Claim
Submission.
Customer Notification -- For US and Canada
General Motors will notify customers of this recall on their vehicle (see copy of customer letter
shown in this bulletin).
Customer Notification -- For IPC
Letters will be sent to known owners of record located within areas covered by the US National
Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. For owners
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9143
outside these areas, dealers should notify customers using the sample letter shown.
Dealer Recall Responsibility -- For US and IPC (US States, Territories, and Possessions)
The US National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act provides that each vehicle which is subject to
a recall of this type must be adequately repaired within a reasonable time after the customer has
tendered it for repair. A failure to repair within sixty days after tender of a vehicle is prima facie
evidence of failure to repair within a reasonable time. If the condition is not adequately repaired
within a reasonable time, the customer may be entitled to an identical or reasonably equivalent
vehicle at no charge or to a refund of the purchase price less a reasonable allowance for
depreciation. To avoid having to provide these burdensome remedies, every effort must be made
to promptly schedule an appointment with each customer and to repair their vehicle as soon as
possible. In the recall notification letters, customers are told how to contact the US National
Highway Traffic Safety Administration if the recall is not completed within a reasonable time.
Dealer Recall Responsibility -- All
All unsold new vehicles in dealers possession and subject to this recall MUST be held and
inspected/repaired per the service procedure of this recall bulletin BEFORE customers take
possession of these vehicles.
Dealers are to service all vehicles subject to this recall at no charge to customers, regardless of
mileage, age of vehicle, or ownership, from this time forward.
Customers who have recently purchased vehicles sold from your vehicle inventory, and for which
there is no customer information indicated on the dealer listing, are to be contacted by the dealer.
Arrangements are to be made to make the required correction according to the instructions
contained in this bulletin. A copy of the customer letter is shown in this bulletin for your use in
contacting customers. Recall follow-up cards should not be used for this purpose, since the
customer may not as yet have received the notification letter.
In summary, whenever a vehicle subject to this recall enters your vehicle inventory, or is in your
dealership for service in the future, please take the steps necessary to be sure the recall correction
has been made before selling or releasing the vehicle.
GENERAL MOTORS PRODUCT PROGRAM CUSTOMER REIMBURSEMENT PROCEDURE
If you have paid to have this recall condition corrected prior to receiving this notification, you may
be eligible to receive reimbursement.
Requests for reimbursement may include parts, labor, fees and taxes. Reimbursement may be
limited to the amount the repair would have cost if completed by an authorized General Motors
dealer. Your claim will be acted upon within 60 days of receipt.
If your claim is:
^ Approved, you will receive a check from General Motors.
^ Denied, you will receive a letter from General Motors with the reason(s) for the denial, or
^ Incomplete, you will receive a letter from General Motors identifying the documentation that is
needed to complete the claim and offered the opportunity to resubmit the claim when the missing
documentation is available.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9144
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9145
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9146
Please follow the instructions on the Claim Form shown to file a claim for reimbursement. If you
have questions about this reimbursement procedure, please call the toll-free telephone number
provided at the bottom of the form. If you need assistance with any other concern, please contact
the appropriate Customer Assistance Center at the number shown.
Disclaimer
Steering Gear Inspection For Involvement
Steering Gear Inspection for Involvement
If a vehicle has had the power steering gear lower pinion bearing or steering gear replaced with a
remanufactured GM steering gear assembly obtained from GMSPO or AC Delco prior to this recall,
the applicable service procedure below will still need to be performed on the vehicle.
If a vehicle had the power steering gear lower pinion bearing or steering gear replaced with a
non-GM design (aftermarket) steering gear, DO NOT perform this recall. Attempting to perform this
recall on a non-GM design steering gear may void the manufacturers warranty given to the
customer at the time of the purchase.
1. Inspect the steering gear housing for one of the GM design steering gear identifiers listed below.
^ A label on the housing indicating that the gear was remanufactured for GM or AC Delco.
^ An 8-digit casting or part number stamped in the rear side of the aluminum housing above or near
the left mounting hole.
^ An list, type logo in the aluminum housing.
2. If the steering gear housing has one of the identifier listed above, the recall must be performed.
Proceed to the appropriate procedure.
3. If the steering gear housing DOES NOT have one of the identifiers listed above, ensure that the
steering gear is non-GM design by contacting the customer and inquiring about where the vehicle
was previously repaired. If the customer indicates that the subject steering gear was installed by a
non-GM dealer, advise the customer that the recall does not apply, and if necessary, refer to
customer to the Customer Assistance Center for reimbursement.
96 Regal, 97-98 Lumina & Monte Carlo, 96-97 Cutlass Supreme , 96 Grand Prix
Lower Pinion Bearing Inspection -- 1996 Buick Regal; 1997-1998 Chevrolet Lumina, Monte Carlo;
1996-1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme; 1996 Pontiac Grand Prix
The following service procedure is for inspection of the lower pinion bearing and can be performed
without completely removing the steering gear from the vehicle.
Tools Required
^ J 44714-B Pinion Bearing Remover
^ J 24319-B Steering Linkage and Tie Rod Puller
1. Open the hood.
2. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist and support.
3. Remove the left front tire and wheel assembly.
4. Support the rear of the engine cradle and remove the two rear cradle attaching bolts.
5. Partially lower the rear of the engine cradle.
6. Remove the bolt and separate the intermediate steering shaft from the steering gear.
7. Lower the rear of the engine cradle as necessary to access and remove the steering gear
attaching bolts.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9147
8. On models equipped with a 3.4L engine, remove the two bolts that attach the heat shield that
covers the right steering gear attaching bolt. Remove the heat shield.
9. Remove the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle.
10. Remove the nut that attaches the outer left tie rod end to the steering knuckle.
11. Using the J 24319-B, Steering Linkage and Tie Rod Puller, or equivalent, separate the outer left
tie rod from the steering knuckle.
12. Remove the steering gear from the engine cradle mounting brackets and reposition to access
the dust cap (3). Refer to Figure 1.
Important
When removing the dust cap in the next step, watch for loose ball hearings that may have
separated from the inner and outer pinion bearing races.
13. Remove the dust cap (3) from the steering gear housing (2) and inspect for loose ball bearings.
Refer to Figure 1.
^ If no ball bearings were found in the dust cap, proceed to the next step and replace the lower
pinion bearing.
^ If one or more ball bearings were found loose in the dust cap, proceed to the section in this
bulletin titled, "Steering Gear Replacement," for the described vehicle.
14. Reposition the steering gear as necessary to access the adjuster plug lock nut and the adjuster
plug.
Notice
Failure to perform the next step may result in damage to the lower pinion bearing removal tool, J
44714-1.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9148
15. Loosen the adjuster plug nut (3) and the adjuster plug (2). Refer to Figure 2. Do not remove the
plug.
Notice
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
16. While holding the stub shaft (1), remove the retaining nut (4) from the pinon shaft. Refer to
Figure 1. Do not reuse the nut.
17. Remove the lower retaining snap ring (1). Refer to Figure 3.
Important
The bearing retainer being removed in the next step is a small piece of wire that keeps all the bail
bearings evenly spaced inside the bearing races.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9149
18. Using a small "pick" like tool, remove the bearing retainer from the bearing. Refer to Figure 4.
19. After removing the bearing retainer, reposition the ball bearings into two groups of four. Refer to
Figure 5
20. Separate the 2-legged puller from the center nut on the J 44714-B and insert the puller legs into
the openings between the two groups of ball bearings.
21. With the forcing screw back off, screw the center nut into the puller and tighten until the nut
bottoms against the puller. Refer to Figure 6.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9150
22. While holding the center nut with a wrench, tighten the forcing screw to remove the bearing
from the housing. Refer to Figure 7.
Important
Inspect the gear housing to ensure that all pieces of the old bearing have been removed.
23. Apply a small quantity of lubrication (e.g., multi-purpose grease or power steering fluid) inside
of the housing bore where the new bearing will be installed.
24. Center the new bearing over the pinion thread. The bearing can be installed with either side
facing outwards.
25. Place the bearing installer (1) J 44714-2 (included in J 44714-B) over the pinion thread. Refer
to Figure 8. If necessary, use the extension included with the installer. Lightly tap the bearing
installer with a hammer until the bearing is seated in the housing.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9151
26. Install a new snap ring. When properly installed, the large lug (1) on the snap ring must be on
the right side as shown in Figure 9.
Important
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
27. While holding the stub shaft (1), install a new retaining nut (3) on the pinion shaft. Refer to
Figure 10.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 30 Nm (22 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9152
28. With the rack centered in the housing, tighten the adjuster plug (2) to 10 Nm (88 lb in), and then
back off 40 to 50 degrees. Refer to Figure 11. Check the torque on the pinion. Maximum pinion
preload torque is 4 Nm (35 lb in).
29. Tighten the adjuster plug lock nut (3) firmly against the steering gear housing while holding the
adjuster plug (2) stationary.
30. Install a new dust cap (2) to the steering gear housing.
31. Install the steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
32. Install the steering gear attaching bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 80 Nm (59 lb ft).
33. On models equipped with a 3.4L engine, install the heat shield and attaching bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 6 Nm (54 lb in).
34. Install the left outer tie rod to the steering knuckle. On models with a torque prevailing nut,
tighten the nut to 30 Nm (22 lb ft) and then tighten an additional 115 degrees. On models with a
slotted nut and cotter pin, tighten the nut to 85 Nm (63 lb ft). If necessary, tighten the nut slightly in
order to insert the cotter pin through the tie rod stud. Bend the cotter pin ends against the flats of
the nuts.
35. Partially raise the rear of the engine cradle.
36. Connect the intermediate steering shaft to the steering gear and install the bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 48 Nm (35 lb ft).
37. Raise the rear of the engine cradle and install the rear attaching bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 180 Nm (133 lb ft).
38. Install the left front tire and wheel assembly.
Tighten
Tighten the wheel nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb ft).
39. Lower the vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9153
40. Check the power steering fluid level and add if necessary.
41. Check the alignment and set toe-in as necessary.
42. Close the hood.
Steering Gear Replacement, If Required -- 1996 Buick Regal, 1997-1998 Chevrolet Lumina, Monte
Carlo, 1996-1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, 1996 Pontiac Grand Prix
For additional information on steering gear removal, refer to the Steering section in the appropriate
Service Manual or SI.
Important
Steering gears currently available from GMSPO are verified good stock and do not require bearing
inspection or replacement.
The following service procedure is based on certain steps having already been performed in the
inspection procedure.
1. Remove the right front tire and wheel assembly.
2. Remove the nut that attaches the outer right tie rod end to the steering knuckle.
3. Using the J 24319-B, or equivalent, separate the outer right tie rod end from the steering
knuckle.
4. If equipped, disconnect the electrical connector form the switch on the steering gear.
5. Place the steering gear back inside of the mounting brackets on the engine cradle.
6. If equipped, release the strap that attaches the power steering fluid lines to the steering gear.
7. Loosen and disconnect both power steering fluid lines from the steering gear.
8. Remove the steering gear form the vehicle.
9. Remove the tie rod ends from the original steering gear.
10. Measure the position of the adjuster nuts on the old steering gear and adjust the new nuts on
the new steering gear to the same measurement.
11. Install the tie rod ends on the new steering gear.
Tighten
Tighten the adjuster nuts to 68 Nm (50 lb ft).
12. If equipped, transfer the switch to the new steering gear.
13. Install the new steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
14. Install the steering gear attaching bolts.
Tighten
Tighten to 80 Nm (59 lb ft).
15. Connect the power steering fluid lines to the steering gear.
Tighten
Tighten to 27 Nm (20 lb ft).
16. If equipped, connect the electrical connector to the switch on the steering gear.
17. On models equipped with a 3.4L engine, install the heat shield and attaching bolts.
Tighten
Tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb in).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9154
18. Install both outer tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. On models with torque prevailing nuts,
tighten the nut to 30 Nm (22 lb ft) and then tighten an additional 115 degrees. On models with a
slotted nut and cotter pin, tighten the nut to 85 Nm (63 lb ft). If necessary, tighten the nut slightly in
order to insert the cotter pin through the tie rod stud. Bend the cotter pin ends against the flats of
the nuts.
19. Partially raise the rear of the engine cradle.
20. Connect the intermediate steering shaft to the steering gear and install the bolt.
Tighten
Tighten to 48 Nm (35 lb ft).
21. Raise the rear of the engine cradle and install the rear attaching bolts.
Tighten
Tighten to 180 Nm (133 lb ft).
22. Install both front tire and wheel assemblies.
Tighten
Tighten the wheel nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb ft).
23. Lower the vehicle.
24. Add power steering fluid and bleed the system.
25. Check the alignment and set toe-in as necessary.
26. Close the hood.
97-98 Malibu, 97-98 Cutlass
Lower Pinion Bearing Inspection -- 1997-1998 Chevrolet Malibu, 1997-1998 Oldsmobile Cutlass
Because of limited access in this vehicle, the pinion bearing can only be inspected after the
steering gear has been completely removed from the vehicle. For additional information on steering
gear removal, refer to the Steering section in the appropriate Service Manual or SI.
Tools Required
^ J 44714-B Pinion Bearing Remover
^ J 24319-B Steering Linkage and Tie Rod Puller
1. Open the hood.
2. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist and support.
3. Remove both front tire and wheel assemblies.
4. Remove the nuts securing the outer tie rod ends to the steering knuckles.
5. Using the J 24319-B, Steering Linkage and Tie Rod Puller, or equivalent, separate the outer tie
rod ends from the steering knuckles.
6. Remove the one bolts and two nuts attaching the rear transmission mount to the engine cradle.
7. Support the rear of the engine cradle.
8. Remove the six bolts that attach the rear of the engine cradle to the body.
9. Partially lower the rear of the engine cradle.
10. Remove the bolt and separate the intermediate steering shaft from the steering gear.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9155
11. Remove the stabilizer link bolts from both lower control arms.
12. Lower the rear of the engine cradle as necessary to access the steering gear attaching bolts.
13. Remove the two bolts attaching the steering gear to the engine cradle.
14. Loosen and disconnect both power steering fluid lines from the steering gear.
15. Remove the steering gear from the engine cradle mounting brackets.
16. Remove the steering gear from the vehicle.
Important
When removing the dust cap in the next step, watch for loose ball bearings that may have
separated from the inner and outer pinion bearing races.
17. Remove the dust cap (3) from the steering gear housing (2) and inspect for loose ball bearings.
Refer to Figure 1.
^ If no ball bearings were found in the dust cap, proceed to the next step and replace the lower
pinion bearing.
^ If one or more ball bearings were found loose in the dust cap, proceed to the section in this
bulletin titled, "Steering Gear Replacement", for the described vehicle.
Notice
Failure to perform the next step may result in damage to the lower pinion bearing removal tool J
44714-1.
18. Loosen the adjuster plug lock nut (3) and the adjuster plug (2). Refer to Figure 2. Do not
remove the plug.
Notice
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
19. While holding the stub shaft (1), remove the retaining nut (4) from the pinion shaft. Refer to
Figure 1. Do not reuse the nut.
20. Remove the lower retaining snap ring (1). Refer to Figure 3.
Important
The bearing retainer being removed in the next step is a small piece of wire that keeps all of the
bearings evenly spaced inside the bearing races.
21. Using a small "pick" like tool, remove the bearing retainer from the bearing. Refer to Figure 4.
22. After removing the bearing retainer, reposition the ball bearings into two groups of four. Refer to
Figure 5.
23. Separate the 2-legged puller from the center nut on the J 44714-B and insert the puller legs into
the openings between the two groups of ball bearings.
24. With the forcing screw backed off, screw the center nut into the puller.
Tighten
Tighten the nut until it bottoms against the puller. Refer to Figure 6.
25. While holding the center nut with a wrench, tighten the forcing screw to remove the bearing
from the housing. Refer to Figure 7.
Important
Inspect the gear housing to ensure that all pieces of the old bearing have been removed.
26. Apply a small quantity of lubrication (e.g., multi-purpose grease or power steering fluid) inside
of the housing bore where the new bearing will be installed.
27. Center the new bearing over the pinion thread. The bearing can be installed with either side
facing outwards.
28. Place the bearing installer (1), J 44714-2 (included in J 44714-B) over the pinion thread. Refer
to Figure 8. Lightly tap the bearing installer with a hammer until the bearing is seated in the
housing.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9156
29. Install a new snap ring. When properly installed, the large lug (1) on the snap ring must be on
the right side as shown in Figure 9.
Notice
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
30. While holding the stub shaft (1) install a new retaining nut (3) on the pinion shaft. Refer to
Figure 10.
Tighten
Tighten to 30 Nm (22 lb ft).
31. With the rack centered in the housing, tighten the adjuster plug (2) to 10 Nm (88 lb in), and then
back off 40 to 50 degrees. Refer to Figure 11. Check the torque on the pinion. Maximum pinion
preload torque is 4 Nm (35 lb in).
32. Tighten the adjuster plug lock nut (3) firmly against the steering gear housing while holding the
adjuster plug (2) stationary.
33. Install a new dust cap (2) to the steering gear housing.
34. Install the steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
35. Install the two bolts attaching the steering gear to the engine cradle.
Tighten
Tighten to 120 Nm (88 lb ft).
36. Connect the power steering fluid lines to the steering gear.
Tighten
Tighten to 27 Nm (20 lb ft).
37. Partially raise the rear of the engine cradle.
38. Connect the intermediate steering shaft to the steering gear and install the bolt.
Tighten
Tighten to 22 Nm (16 lb ft).
39. Install the stabilizer link bolts in both lower control arms.
Tighten
Tighten to 17 Nm (13 lb ft).
40. Raise the rear of the engine cradle and install the six bolts. Refer to Figure 12.
Tighten
^ Tighten the rear suspension crossmember bolts (1) to 110 Nm (81 lb ft).
^ Tighten the suspension crossmember to body bolts (2) to 82 Nm (60 lb ft).
41. Install the one bolt and two nuts that attach the rear transmission mount to the engine cradle.
Tighten
Tighten to 66 Nm (49 lb ft).
42. Install both outer tie rod ends to the knuckles.
Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 45 Nm (33 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9157
43. Install both front tire and wheel assemblies.
Tighten
Tighten to 140 Nm (103 lb ft).
44. Lower the vehicle.
45. Check the power steering fluid level and add if necessary.
46. Check the alignment and set toe-in as necessary.
47. Close the hood.
Steering Gear Replacement, If Required -- 1997-1998 Chevrolet Malibu, 1997-1998 Oldsmobile
Cutlass
For additional information on steering gear removal, refer to the Steering section in the appropriate
Service Manual or SI.
Important
Steering gears currently available from GMSPO are verified good stock and do not require bearing
inspection or replacement.
The following service procedure is based on the steering gear having been removed from the
vehicle during the inspection procedure.
1. Remove the tie rod ends from the original steering gear.
2. Measure the position of the adjuster nuts on the old steering gear and adjust the new nuts on the
new steering gear to the same measurement.
3. Install the tie rod ends on the new steering gear.
Tighten
Tighten the adjuster nuts to 68 Nm (50 lb ft).
4. Install the new steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
5. Install the two bolts attaching the steering gear to the engine cradle.
Tighten
Tighten to 120 Nm (88 lb ft).
6. Connect the power steering fluid lines to the steering gear.
Tighten
Tighten to 27 Nm (20 lb ft).
7. Partially raise the rear of the engine cradle.
8. Connect the intermediate steering shaft to the steering gear and install the bolt.
Tighten
Tighten to 22 Nm (16 lb ft).
9. Install the stabilizer link bolts in both lower control arms.
Tighten
Tighten to 17 Nm (13 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9158
10. Raise the rear of the engine cradle and install the six bolts. Refer to Figure 12.
Tighten
^ Tighten the rear suspension crossmember bolts (1) to 110 Nm (81 lb ft).
^ Tighten the suspension crossmember to body bolts (2) to 82 Nm (60 lb ft).
11. Install the one bolt and two nuts that attach the rear transmission mount to the engine cradle.
Tighten
Tighten to 66 Nm (49 lb ft).
12. Install both outer tie rod ends to the knuckles.
Tighten
Tighten to 45 Nm (33 lb ft).
13. Install both front tire and wheel assemblies.
Tighten
Tighten to 140 Nm (103 lb ft).
14. Lower the vehicle.
15. Add power steering fluid and bleed the system.
16. Check the alignment and set toe-in as necessary.
17. Close the hood.
97-98 Regal, 98 Intrigue
Lower Pinion Bearing Inspection -- 1997-1998 Buick Regal, 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
The following service procedure is for inspection of the lower pinion bearing and can be performed
without completely removing the steering gear from the vehicle.
Tools Required
^ J 44714-B Pinion Bearing Remover
^ J 24319-B Steering Linkage and Tie Rod Puller
1. Open the hood.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9159
2. Raise the vehicle on a suitable hoist and support.
Important
When removing the dust cap in the next step, watch for loose ball bearings that may have
separated from the inner and outer pinion hearing races.
3. Remove the dust cap (3) from the steering gear housing (2) and inspect for loose ball bearings.
Refer to Figure 1.
^ If no ball bearings were found in the dust cap, proceed to the next step and replace the lower
pinion bearing.
^ If one or more ball bearings were found loose in the dust cap, proceed to the section in this
bulletin titled, "Steering Gear Replacement", for the described vehicles.
4. Support the rear of the engine frame (cradle) and remove the two rear attaching bolts.
5. Remove the left and right side stabilizer bar links from the lower control arms.
6. Reposition the stabilizer bar as necessary to improve access to the steering gear.
7. Remove the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle.
8. Remove the bolt and separate the intermediate steering shaft from the steering gear.
9. Lower the rear of the engine cradle as necessary to access the steering gear.
10. Remove the steering gear from the engine cradle mounting brackets and reposition to access
the adjuster plug lock nut and the adjuster plug. Do not remove the plug.
11. Loosen the adjuster plug lock nut (3) and the adjuster plug (2). Refer to Figure 2. Do not
remove the plug.
Important
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
12. While holding the stub shaft (1), remove the retaining nut (4) from the pinion shaft. Refer to
Figure 1. Do not reuse the nut.
13. Remove the lower retaining snap ring (1). Refer to Figure 3.
Important
Placement of a block of wood between the steering gear housing and the transmission case will
help to support the steering gear in the next step.
Important
The bearing retainer being removed in the next step is a small piece of wire that keeps all of the
ball bearings evenly spaced inside the the bearing races.
14. Using a small "pick" like too, remove the bearing retainer from the bearing. Refer to Figure 4.
15. After removing the bearing retainer, reposition the ball bearings into two groups of four. Refer to
Figure 5.
16. Separate the 2-legged puller from the center nut on the J 44714-B, Steering Linkage and Tie
Rod Puller, and insert the puller legs into the openings between the two groups of ball bearings.
17. With the forcing screw backed off, screw the center nut into the puller.
Tighten
Tighten the nut until it bottoms against the puller.
18. While holding the center nut with a wrench, tighten the forcing screw to remove the bearing
from the housing. See Figure 7.
Important
Inspect the gear housing to ensure that all pieces of the old bearing have been removed.
19. Apply a small quantity of lubrication (e.g. multi-purpose grease or power steering fluid) inside
the housing bore where the new bearing will be installed.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9160
20. Center the new bearing over the pinion thread. The bearing can be installed with either side
facing outwards.
21. Place the bearing installer (1) J 44714-2 (included in J 44714-B) over the pinion thread. Refer
to Figure 8. If necessary, use the extension included with the installer. Lightly tap with a hammer
until the bearing is seated in the housing.
22. Install a new snap ring. Refer to Figure 9. When properly installed, the large lug (1) on the snap
ring must be on the right side as shown.
Important
If the stub shaft is not held in the next step, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
23. While holding the stub shaft (1), install a new retaining nut (3) on the pinion shaft. Refer to
Figure 10.
Tighten
Tighten the retaining nut to 30 Nm (22 lb ft).
24. Install a new dust cap (2) to the steering gear housing.
25. Center the rack in the housing.
Tighten
Tighten the adjuster plug (2) to 10 Nm (88 lb in), and then back off 40 to 50 degrees (4). Refer to
Figure 11.
26. Check the torque on the pinion. Maximum pinion preload torque is 4 Nm (35 lb in).
27. Tighten the adjuster plug lock nut (3) firmly against the steering gear housing while holding the
adjuster plug (2) stationary.
28. Install the steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
29. Install the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle.
Tighten
Tighten to 80 Nm (59 lb ft).
30. Raise the rear of the engine cradle and install the rear attaching bolts.
Tighten
Tighten to 180 Nm (133 lb ft).
31. Connect the intermediate steering shaft to the steering gear and install the bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 48 Nm (35 lb ft).
32. Reposition the stabilizer bar.
33. Install the left and right side stabilizer bar links to the lower control arm.
Tighten
Tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb ft).
34. Lower the vehicle.
35. Check the power steering fluid and add if necessary.
Steering Gear Replacement, If Required -- 1997-1998 Buick Regal, 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
For additional information on steering gear removal, refer to the Steering section in the appropriate
Service Manual or SI.
The following service procedure is based on certain steps having already been performed in the
inspection procedure.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9161
1. Remove the bolt and separate the intermediate steering shaft from the steering gear.
2. Support the rear of the engine frame (cradle) and remove the two rear attaching bolts.
3. Remove the left and right side stabilizer bar links from the lower control arms.
4. Reposition the stabilizer bar as necessary to improve access to the steering gear.
5. Remove the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle.
6. Lower the rear of the engine cradle as necessary to access the steering gear.
7. Loosen the outer tie rod end adjuster nuts.
8. Remove both wheel and tire assemblies.
9. Remove the nuts that attach the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles.
10. Using the J 24319-B (outer tie rod end puller) or equivalent, separate the tie rod ends from the
knuckles.
11. Disconnect the pressure and return lines from the steering gear.
12. If equipped, disconnect the electrical connector from the steering gear.
13. Remove the steering gear from the vehicle.
14. Remove the tie rod ends from the old steering gear.
15. Measure the position of the adjuster nuts on the old steering gear and adjust the new nuts on
the new steering gear to the same measurement.
16. Install the tie rod ends on the new steering gear.
Tighten
Tighten the adjuster nuts to 68 Nm (50 lb ft).
17. Install the new steering gear in the engine cradle mounting brackets.
18. If equipped, connect the electrical connector for the steering gear.
19. Install the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the engine cradle.
Tighten
Tighten to 80 Nm (59 lb ft).
20. Connect the pressure and return lines to the steering gear.
Tighten
Tighten to 27 Nm (20 lb ft).
21. Install the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Install the retaining nuts.
Tighten
Tighten to 30 Nm (22 lb ft), plus 120 degrees (or 2 flats of the nut).
22. Raise the rear of the engine cradle and install the two rear attaching bolts.
Tighten
Tighten to 180 Nm (133 lb ft).
23. Install the intermediate steering shaft to the steering gear and install the bolt.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9162
Tighten
Tighten to 48 Nm (35 lb ft).
24. Reposition the stabilizer bar.
25. Install the left and right side stabilizer bar links to the lower control arms.
Tighten
Tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb ft).
26. Install both wheel and tire assemblies. Install lug nuts.
Tighten
Tighten lug nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb ft).
27. Lower the vehicle.
28. Add power steering fluid and bleed the system.
29. Check the alignment and set toe-in as necessary.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9163
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 03062 > Jan > 04 > Recall - Steering Gear Pinion
Bearing Separation > Page 9164
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Steering Gear: > 83-32-10 > Nov > 98 > Tools - Adjuster Locknut Wrench
> Page 9169
(See Figure 2)
Procedure
1. Place J 42882 over the end of the stub shaft. Place J 43435 over the end. J 43435 is reversible
and can be used with both old and new style coupling shield retainers and locknuts.
2. Tighten the coupling shield retainer and locknut assembly after an adjustment or repair has been
made to the power steering gear to the specified torque (See Figure 3).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information >
Specifications > Mechanical Specifications
Steering Gear: Mechanical Specifications
Cylinder End Fittings ...........................................................................................................................
................................................. 27.0 Nm (20 ft. lbs.) Hex Lock Nut ....................................................
................................................................................................................................... 30.0 Nm (22 ft.
lbs.) Hex Torque Prevailing Nut (Outer Tie Rod)
........................................................................................................................ 20.0 Nm (14 ft. lbs.)
plus 180°
Inner Tie Rod .......................................................................................................................................
............................................... 100.0 Nm (74 ft. lbs.) Jam Nut .............................................................
.................................................................................................................................... 68.0 Nm (50 ft.
lbs.) Lock Nut .......................................................................................................................................
........................................................ 68.0 Nm (50 ft. lbs.) Pinion Preload ............................................
......................................................................................................................................... 1.8 Nm (16
inch lbs.) Valve End Fittings ................................................................................................................
............................................................. 16.9 Nm (12.6 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information >
Specifications > Mechanical Specifications > Page 9172
Steering Gear: Capacity Specifications
Capacity Complete System .................................................................................................................
.............................................. 0.75 liter (1 - 1/2 pints) Lubricant
.........................................................................................................................................................
Power Steering Fluid 1050017 or Equivalent
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 9173
Steering Gear: Diagrams
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 9174
Steering Gear: Description and Operation
The power steering gear system has a rotary control valve which directs hydraulic fluid coming
from the hydraulic pump to one side or the other side of the rack piston. The integral rack piston is
attached to the rack. The rack piston converts hydraulic pressure to a linear force which moves the
rack left or right. The force is then transmitted through the inner and outer tie rods to the struts
which turn the wheels.
If hydraulic assist is not available, manual control will be maintained, however, more steering effort
will be required. The movement of the steering wheel is transferred to the pinion. The movement of
the pinion is then transferred through the pinion teeth, which mesh with teeth on the rack, causing
the rack to move.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Diagnostic Information & Procedures
Steering Gear: Testing and Inspection Diagnostic Information & Procedures
GENERAL PROCEDURE
Inspect: ^
Overfilled reservoir.
^ Fluid aeration and overflow.
^ Hose connections.
^ Verify exact point of leakage. Example: The point from which the fluid is dripping is not necessarily the point where the system is
leaking. Fluid overflowing from the reservoir may appear to be dripping from the bottom of the
housing.
Important: ^
When service is required: A. Clean leakage area upon disassembly. B. Replace leaking seal. C.
Check component sealing surfaces for damage. D. Reset bolt tightening specification, where
required.
^ Some complaints about the power steering system may be reported as: A. Fluid leakage on
garage floor. B. Fluid leaks visible on steering gear or pump. C. Growling noise, especially when
parking or when engine is cold. D. Loss of power steering when parking. E. Heavy steering effort.
^ When troubleshooting these kinds of complaints check for an external leak in the power steering
system.
EXTERNAL LEAKAGE CHECK
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Diagnostic Information & Procedures > Page 9177
The purpose of this procedure is to pinpoint the location of the leak. In some cases, the leak can
easily be located. But, seepage type leaks may be more difficult to isolate. To locate seepage
leaks, use the following method. 1. With the engine off, wipe dry the complete power steering
system. 2. Check the fluid level in the pump's reservoir. Adjust fluid level as necessary. 3. Start the
engine, then turn the steering wheel from stop to stop several times. Do not hold it at a stop for any
length of time, as this can damage the
power steering pump. It is easier if someone else operates the steering wheel while you search for
the seepage.
4. Find the exact area of the leak and repair leak.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Diagnostic Information & Procedures > Page 9178
Steering Gear: Testing and Inspection Diagnosis By Symptom
HISSING NOISE
There is some noise in all power steering systems. One of the most common is a hissing sound
when the steering wheel is turned and the vehicle is not moving. This noise will be most evident
when turning the wheel while the brakes are applied. There is no relationship between this noise
and steering performance. Do not replace the valve and pinion unless the "hissing" noise is
extremely objectionable. A replacement valve and pinion will also have a slight noise, and is not
always a cure for the condition. Check that the intermediate shaft joints are not loose.
RATTLE OR CHUCKING NOISE
Inspect: ^
Power steering hose or line grounding out.
^ Tie rod ends loose.
^ Loose steering gear mounting.
^ Rack bearing preload loose.
^ Intermediate shaft boot mispositioned.
POOR RETURN OF STEERING WHEEL TO CENTER
Inspect: ^
Front-wheel alignment.
^ Hub and bearing assembly worn.
^ Intermediate shaft binding or loose.
^ Tie rod end binding.
^ Ball joint binding.
^ Tight or frozen steering shaft bearings.
^ Rack bearing preload.
^ Sticky or plugged valve and pinion.
^ Intermediate shaft boot mispositioned.
MOMENTARY INCREASE IN EFFORT WHEN TURNING WHEEL FAST TO RIGHT OR LEFT
(ESPECIALLY WHEN COLD)
Inspect: ^
High internal leakage in gear or pump.
^ Hose pinched or restricted.
^ Sticking flow control valve.
^ Low fluid level in pump reservoir.
STEERING WHEEL SURGES OR JERKS WHEN TURNING WITH ENGINE RUNNING
(ESPECIALLY DURING PARKING, OR COLD)
Inspect: ^
Belt slipping.
^ Insufficient pump pressure
EXCESSIVE WHEEL KICKBACK OR LOOSE STEERING
Inspect: ^
Air in system.
^ Steering gear attachments loose.
^ Intermediate shaft loose.
^ Tie rod ends loose.
^ Hub and bearing assembly worn.
^ Rack bearing preload.
HARD STEERING OR LACK OF ASSIST (ESPECIALLY DURING PARKING)
Inspect: ^
Loose or worn intermediate shaft.
^ Loose belt.
^ Insufficient pump pressure.
^ High internal leakage in gear or pump.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Seal Replacement Recommendations
Steering Gear: Service and Repair Seal Replacement Recommendations
Lip seals, which seal rotating shafts, require special treatment. This type of seal is used on the
steering gear at the valve and pinion and on the drive shaft of the pump. When there is a leak in
one of these areas, always replace the seal(s), after inspecting and thoroughly cleaning the sealing
surfaces. Replace the shaft only if very severe pitting is found. If the corrosion in the lip seal
contact zone is slight, clean the surface of the shaft with crocus cloth. Replace the shaft only if the
leakage cannot be stopped by first smoothing with crocus cloth.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Seal Replacement Recommendations > Page 9181
Steering Gear: Service and Repair On-Vehicle Service
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Seal Replacement Recommendations > Page 9182
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Seal Replacement Recommendations > Page 9183
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Siphon power steering fluid from reservoir. 2. Raise vehicle. 3. Left front tire. 4. Lower pinch bolt
on intermediate shaft assembly and push shaft up towards steering column. 5. Remove tie rods
from knuckles. 6. Steering gear bolts. 7. Transmission mount to Crossmember bolt. 8. Remove rear
Crossmember to body bolts to provide clearance to remove power steering pipe/hoses. 9. Loosen
front Crossmember bolts.
10. Power steering pipes from steering gear. 11. Steering gear through left wheel opening.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Steering gear through left wheel opening. 2. Power steering pipes to steering gear. 3. Tighten
front Crossmember bolts. 4. Install rear Crossmember to body bolts. 5. Transmission mount to
Crossmember bolt. 6. Steering gear bolts. 7. Install tie rods to knuckles. 8. Lower pinch bolt on
intermediate shaft assembly. 9. Left front tire.
10. Lower vehicle.
^ Fill reservoir with power steering fluid and bleed air from system.
^ Inspect for leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Seal Replacement Recommendations > Page 9184
Steering Gear: Service and Repair Unit Repair
Service Precautions
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for the application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener tightening specification and the
joint clamping force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct
tightening sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to
parts and systems.
Outer Tie Rod
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Seal Replacement Recommendations > Page 9185
^ Tool Required: J 24319-01 Universal Steering Linkage Puller
- Or Equivalent
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Hex torque prevailing nut (1) from outer tie rod assembly (5). 2. Loosen jam nut (7). 3. Outer tie
rod (5) from steering knuckle with J 24319-01. 4. Outer tie rod (5) from inner tie rod (12).
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Outer tie rod assembly (5) to inner tie rod (12). Do not tighten jam nut (7). 2. Outer tie rod (5) to
steering knuckle, hex torque prevailing nut (1) to outer tie rod stud.
^ Tighten: Hex torque prevailing nut (1) to 20 Nm (14 ft. lbs.).
- Tighten nut an additional 180° of rotation.
^ Adjust toe by turning inner tie rod (12).
Important: Be sure rack and pinion boot (10) is not twisted or puckered during toe adjustment.
^ Tighten jam nut (7) against outer tie rod (5) to 68 Nm (50 ft. lbs.).
Rack Bearing Preload (on Vehicle Adjustment)
1. Make adjustment with front wheels raised and steering wheel centered. Be sure to check
returnability of the steering wheel to center after
adjustment.
2. Loosen adjuster plug lock nut (15) and turn adjuster plug clockwise until it bottoms in gear
assembly (30), then back off 50° to 70° (approximately
one flat).
3. Lock nut (15) to adjuster plug.
^ Tighten lock nut (15) to 68 Nm (50 ft. lbs.) while holding adjuster plug stationary.
Rack & Pinion Boot
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Seal Replacement Recommendations > Page 9186
^ Tool Required: J 22610 Service Boot Clamp Installer
- Or Equivalent
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Do all steps under "REMOVE OR DISCONNECT," refer to OUTER TIE ROD. 2. Hex jam nut (7)
from inner tie rod assembly (12). 3. Tie rod end clamp (8). 4. Boot clamp (11) with side cutters and
discard. 5. Rack and pinion boot (10).
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. New boot clamp (11) onto rack and pinion boot (10).
2. Apply grease to inner tie rod (12) and gear assembly (30) prior to boot installation.
^ Boot (10) onto inner tie rod assembly (12).
3. Boot (10) onto gear assembly (30) until seated in gear assembly groove.
Important: Boot (10) must not be twisted, puckered or out of shape in any way. If the boot is not
shaped properly, adjust by hand before installing boot clamp (11).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Seal Replacement Recommendations > Page 9187
4. Boot clamp (11) on boot (10) with tool J 22610 and crimp as shown. 5. Tie rod end clamp (8)
with pliers on boot (10). 6. Hex jam nut (7) to inner tie rod assembly (12). 7. Do all steps under
"INSTALL OR CONNECT," refer to OUTER TIE ROD.
Inner Tie Rod
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Rack and pinion assembly from vehicle. 2. Do all steps under "REMOVE OR DISCONNECT,"
refer to RACK & PINION BOOT.
3. Shock dampener (13) from inner tie rod assembly (12) and slide back on rack.
NOTICE: Rack must be held during removal of inner tie rod (12) to prevent rack damage.
4. Inner tie rod assembly (12) from rack assembly as follows:
^ Place a wrench on flat of rack assembly.
^ Place another wrench on flats of inner tie rod housing.
^ Rotate inner tie rod housing counterclockwise until inner tie rod (12) separates from rack.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Seal Replacement Recommendations > Page 9188
5. Old Loctite from threads of rack and inner tie rod.
Important: ^
Threads must be clean prior to Loctite application. Make sure Loctite (or equivalent) container
expiration date has not passed. Do not use too much Loctite (or equivalent). Use only enough to
evenly coat threads.
^ Apply Loctite 262 (or equivalent) to inner tie rod threads.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
NOTICE: Rack must be held during inner tie rod (12) installation to prevent internal gear damage.
1. Shock dampener (13) onto rack.
2. Inner tie rod (12) on rack.
^ Place a wrench on flats of rack assembly.
^ Place another wrench on flats of inner tie rod housing.
^ Tighten inner tie rod (12) to 100 Nm (74 ft. lbs.).
3. Slide shock dampener (13) over inner tie rod housing until it engages. 4. Do all steps under
"INSTALL OR CONNECT," refer to RACK & PINION BOOT. 5. Rack and pinion assembly to
vehicle.
Cylinder Line Assembly and O-Ring Seals
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Seal Replacement Recommendations > Page 9189
^ Tools Required: 12mm Flare Nut Wrench
- 16mm Flare Nut Wrench
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Seal Replacement Recommendations > Page 9190
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Loosen cylinder line fittings (25) or (26) on cylinder end of gear assembly (30). 2. Loosen fittings
on cylinder line assemblies (25) or (26) at valve end of gear assembly (30). 3. Cylinder line
assemblies (25) or (26) from rack and pinion gear assembly (30). 4. O-ring seals (23) from valve
end of lines (25) or (26) and discard.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
Inspect lines for: ^
Cracks.
^ Dents.
^ Damage to threads.
^ Replace as needed.
1. New O-ring seals (23) to valve end of lines (25) or (26). 2. Cylinder line assemblies (25) or (26)
to gear assembly (30).
NOTICE: Carefully align threads on all fittings and finger tighten to avoid stripping and cross
threading.
^ Tighten: Valve end fittings to 16.9 Nm (12.6 ft. lbs.).
- Cylinder end fittings to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
Pinion Seal, Dust Seal and Bearing/Annulus Assembly
^ Tools Required: J 29810 Stub Shaft Seal Protector, Or Equivalent
- 14 mm Crowfoot Wrench
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Rack and pinion steering assembly from vehicle.
2. Adjuster plug lock nut (15) from adjuster plug. 3. Adjuster plug from gear assembly (30). 4.
Adjuster spring and rack bearing. 5. Retaining ring (17) from valve bore of gear assembly (30).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Seal Replacement Recommendations > Page 9191
6. Dust cover (33) from bottom of gear assembly (30).
NOTICE: Stub shaft must be held to prevent damage to the pinion teeth.
7. Hex lock nut (32) from lower end of pinion and valve assembly, while holding stub shaft with 14
mm Crowfoot Wrench.
NOTICE: DO NOT hammer or pound on pinion and valve assembly. This will cause damage or
loosen the drive pin.
Important: When performing the following procedure, do not remove pinion and valve assembly
from gear assembly. Press pinion and valve assembly only far enough to allow removal of
bearing/annulus and seal. Pinion and valve assembly removal is not required.
8. Use an arbor press. Press on threaded end of pinion until it is possible to remove stub shaft,
spool shaft seal (20), and stub shaft bearing/annulus
assembly (21).
INSTALL OR CONNECT
NOTICE: If the stub shaft is not held, damage to the pinion teeth will occur.
1. Hex lock nut (32) onto pinion, while holding the valve stub shaft.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Seal Replacement Recommendations > Page 9192
^ Tighten hex lock nut (32) to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.).
2. Dust cover (33) to gear assembly (30). 3. Stub shaft bearing annulus assembly (21) onto valve
stub shaft.
4. Seal protector J 29810 onto valve stub shaft. 5. Apply a small quantity of grease on seal (20).
^ Spool shaft seal (20) over protector and into gear assembly (30).
6. Retaining ring (17) into groove in gear assembly (30). 7. Lubricate stub shaft and dust seal area
with grease.
8. Coat rack bearing, adjuster spring and adjuster plug with lithium base grease and install in gear
assembly (30).
^ With rack centered in the gear assembly (30), turn adjuster plug clockwise until it bottoms in the
gear assembly, then back off 50° to 70° (approx. one flat). Check rotational torque on pinion.
Maximum pinion preload torque is 1.8 Nm (16 inch lbs.).
9. Adjuster plug lock nut (15) to adjuster plug. Tighten firmly against gear assembly while holding
adjuster plug stationary.
^ Tighten lock nut (15) to 68 Nm (50 ft. lbs.) while holding adjuster plug stationary.
10. Rack and pinion assembly into vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Seal Replacement Recommendations > Page 9193
Important: Flush power steering system (hoses, reservoir and cooler lines) with power steering fluid
GM Part #1050017 (or equivalent meeting GM Specification #9985010.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 9194
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Service Precautions
Steering Wheel: Service and Repair Service Precautions
The procedures given must be followed in the order listed to temporarily disable the Supplemental
Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System and prevent false Diagnostic Trouble Codes from setting. Failure
to follow procedures could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise
unneeded SIR system repairs.
The SDM can maintain sufficient voltage to cause a deployment for 10 minutes after the ignition
switch is turned "OFF" or the battery is disconnected. Many of the service procedures require
disconnection of the SIR fuse and inflator module circuits from the deployment loop to avoid an
accidental deployment.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Service Precautions > Page 9199
Steering Wheel: Service and Repair Wiring Repair Supplemental Inflatable Restraint
If the wiring pigtail (wires attached directly to the component, not by a connector) on either the
Inflator Module or the Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) Coil Assembly is damaged, the entire
component must be replaced. Absolutely no wire, connector, or terminal repairs are to be
attempted on either the Inflator Module or the SIR Coil Assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Service Precautions > Page 9200
Steering Wheel: Service and Repair Inflator Module - Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR)
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
^ Disable the Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) system.
1. Two screws from the back of the steering wheel at the 3 O'clock and 9 O'clock positions using a
T-30 Torx (TM) driver (or equivalent). 2. Electrical connection from rear of inflator module. 3.
Inflator module.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Electrical connections to rear of inflator module. 2. Route wires through plastic clip on the back
of the module.
^ Inspect steering wheel brackets and bushings for damage. Remove and replace as necessary.
3. Align inflator module with the bushings. 4. Press inflator module cover above each of the
fastener to be installed until a click is heard. 5. Inflator module two screws through back of steering
wheel.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Service Precautions > Page 9201
^ Tighten screws to 7 Nm (62 inch lbs.).
6. Insure Inflator module is seated properly by carefully pulling on it. 7. Enable the SIR system.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Service Precautions > Page 9202
Steering Wheel: Service and Repair Steering Wheel
^ Tool Required: J 1859-A Steering Wheel Puller
- J 42120 Steering Wheel Jaws
- Or Equivalents
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Disable the Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) system. 2. Inflator module. 3. Steering wheel
nut. 4. Steering wheel.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Align mark on steering wheel with mark on shaft, then install steering wheel. 2. Steering wheel
nut.
^ Tighten steering wheel nut to 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.).
3. Electrical connections and Inflator module. 4. Enable the SIR system.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Tie Rod > Tie Rod End > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Steering - New Outer Tie Rods/Replacement Procedure
Tie Rod End: Technical Service Bulletins Steering - New Outer Tie Rods/Replacement Procedure
Bulletin No.: 03-02-32-049
Date: October 29, 2003
INFORMATION
Subject:
Release Of New Outer Tie Rod Ends For Service
Models: 1997-2001 Buick Century 1997-2001 Buick Regal 2000-2003 Buick LeSabre, Park Avenue
2002-2003 Buick Rendezvous 1997-2003 Cadillac Seville 2000-2003 Cadillac DeVille 1997-2001
Chevrolet Venture (FWD) 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 2000-2001 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo
2002-2004 Chevrolet Venture (AWD) 1997-2001 Oldsmobile Silhouette (FWD) 1998-2001
Oldsmobile Intrigue 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero 2001-2003 Oldsmobile Aurora 2002-2004
Oldsmobile Silhouette (AWD) 1997-2001 Pontiac Grand Prix, Montana (FWD), Trans Sport (FWD)
1999-2003 Pontiac Grand Am 2000-2003 Pontiac Bonneville 2001-2003 Pontiac Aztek 2002-2004
Pontiac Montana (AWD)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Tie Rod > Tie Rod End > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Steering - New Outer Tie Rods/Replacement Procedure > Page 9208
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Tie Rod > Tie Rod End > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Steering - New Outer Tie Rods/Replacement Procedure > Page 9209
Built Prior to VIN Breakpoint shown.
A new outer tie rod end service kit has been released. When replacing the outer tie rod ends, use
the improved tie rod end service kit and modify the knuckles. Follow the service procedure below.
Procedure
Important:
DO NOT USE the following outer tie rod end P/N's when servicing the above listed vehicles:
^ 26086579
^ 26086580
1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the front tire and wheel assemblies.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Tie Rod > Tie Rod End > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Steering - New Outer Tie Rods/Replacement Procedure > Page 9210
3. Loosen the jam nut (2) on the inner tie rod assembly (1).
4. Remove and discard the prevailing torque nut from the outer tie rod assembly.
5. Using the J 24319-B, remove the outer tie rod assembly (2) from the steering knuckle (1).
6. While removing the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod assembly, count the number of
revolutions it takes to remove the outer tie rod from the inner tie rod and record it. Discard the outer
tie rod end.
Important:
When sanding the knuckle, DO NOT REMOVE excessive material from the knuckle. ONLY USE
the emery cloth supplied in the service kit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Tie Rod > Tie Rod End > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Steering - New Outer Tie Rods/Replacement Procedure > Page 9211
7. Use the emery cloth supplied in the service kit to remove the sharp edge on the knuckle shown
above. The graphic on the left shows the " before sanding" knuckle and the exploded graphic on
the right shows the "after sanded" knuckle.
8. Ensure that the sharp edge and the flashing on the knuckle are removed from the outer tie rod
end boot/seal area.
9. Install the new outer tie rod end supplied in the service kit by screwing the outer tie rod end onto
the inner tie rod end assembly. Turn the outer tie rod end as many turns as it took to remove the
old outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod end assembly.
10. Install the prevailing torque nut to the outer tie rod assembly.
Tighten
Tighten the prevailing torque nut to 30 N.m (22 lb ft). Tighten the prevailing torque nut an additional
115 degrees of rotation.
11. "Hand Tighten" the jam nut at this time.
12. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
13. Lower the vehicle.
14. Inspect the front toe and adjust if necessary.
15. Tighten the jam nut against the outer tie rod assembly.
Tighten
Tighten the jam nut to 68 N.m (50 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Tie Rod > Tie Rod End > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Steering - New Outer Tie Rods/Replacement Procedure > Page 9212
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Tie Rod > Tie Rod End > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Steering - New Outer Tie Rods/Replacement Procedure > Page 9213
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Tie Rod > Tie Rod End > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Steering - New Outer Tie Rods/Replacement Procedure > Page 9214
Tie Rod End: Technical Service Bulletins Steering - Various Revised Tightening Specifications
CHEVROLET 73-32-03A
Issued: 05/01/97
SMU - SECTIONS 3B/3C/4D
REVISION: 04/11/97
THIS BULLETIN IS BEING REVISED TO UPDATE THE DRIVE AXLE NUT TIGHTENING
SPECIFICATIONS FOR THE N CAR. PLEASE DISCARD CORPORATE BULLETIN NUMBER
73-32-03 (SECTION 3 - STEERING/SUSPENSION).
SUBJECT: SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE - SECTIONS 3B/3C/4D - REVISED TIGHTENING
SPECIFICATIONS
MODELS: 1997 CHEVROLET CAVALIER, MALIBU 1997 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS 1997
PONTIAC SUNFIRE
THIS BULLETIN IS BEING ISSUED TO REVISE THE TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS IN
SECTIONS 3B, 3C AND 4D OF THE SERVICE MANUAL AS FOLLOWS:
J CAR
SECTIONS 3B-8, 3B-9, 3C-5 AND 3C-13:
THE CORRECT TIGHTENING SPECIFICATION IS AS FOLLOWS:
- TIE ROD END TO KNUCKLE NUT 20 N.M (15 LB FT) PLUS 90 DEGREE ROTATION.
N CAR
SECTIONS 3C-6 AND 3C-16:
THE CORRECT TIGHTENING SPECIFICATION IS AS FOLLOWS:
- TIE ROD END TO KNUCKLE NUT 20 N.M (15 LB FT) PLUS 180 DEGREE ROTATION.
SECTION 3B-12:
THE CORRECT TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS ARE AS FOLLOWS:
- STEERING COLUMN LOWER PINCH BOLT 22 N.M (16 LB FT)
- STEERING COLUMN UPPER PINCH BOLT 22 N.M (16 LB FT)
SECTIONS 3C-16, 4D-4 AND 4D-5:
THE CORRECT TIGHTENING SPECIFICATION IS AS FOLLOWS:
- FRONT DRIVE AXLE NUT 385 N.M (284 LB FT) +/- 5 N.M (44 LB IN). REPLACE THE DRIVE
AXLE NUT WITH A NEW ONE AFTER EVERY REMOVAL. NEVER RE-USE THE DRIVE AXLE
NUT.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Ball Joint > Component Information >
Specifications
Ball Joint: Specifications
Ball joints must be replaced if any looseness is detected in the joint or the ball joint seal is cut.
To inspect the ball joints, raise the front of the vehicle allowing the front suspension to hang free.
Grasp the tire at the top and bottom and move the top of tire with an in-and-out motion. Observe
ball joint for any horizontal movement of the steering knuckle relative to the front lower control arm.
If the ball stud is disconnected from the steering knuckle and any looseness is detected, or if the
ball stud can be twisted in its socket using finger pressure, replace the ball joint.
Ball stud tightness in the steering knuckle boss should also be checked when inspecting the ball
joint. This may be done by shaking the wheel and feeling for movement of the stud end or
castellated nut at the knuckle boss. Checking the castellated nut fastener tightening specification is
an alternative method of inspecting for wear A loose nut can indicate a bent stud or an "opened-up"
hole in the knuckle boss. Worn or damaged ball joints and knuckles must be replaced.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Ball Joint > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 9219
Ball Joint: Testing and Inspection
Ball joints must be replaced if any looseness is detected in the joint or the ball joint seal is cut.
To inspect the ball joints, raise the front of the vehicle allowing the front suspension to hang free.
Grasp the tire at the top and bottom and move the top of tire with an in-and-out motion. Observe
ball joint for any horizontal movement of the steering knuckle relative to the front lower control arm.
If the ball stud is disconnected from the steering knuckle and any looseness is detected, or if the
ball stud can be twisted in its socket using finger pressure, replace the ball joint.
Ball stud tightness in the steering knuckle boss should also be checked when inspecting the ball
joint. This may be done by shaking the wheel and feeling for movement of the stud end or
castellated nut at the knuckle boss. Checking the castellated nut fastener tightening specification is
an alternative method of inspecting for wear A loose nut can indicate a bent stud or an "opened-up"
hole in the knuckle boss. Worn or damaged ball joints and knuckles must be replaced.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Ball Joint > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 9220
Ball Joint: Service and Repair
^ Tool Required: J 38892 Ball Joint Separator
- Or Equivalent
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle and suitably support. 2. If suspension contact hoist is used:
^ Place jack stands under crossmember.
^ Lower vehicle slightly so weight of vehicle rests on the crossmember and not the control arms.
3. Tire and wheel assembly.
NOTICE: Care must be exercised to prevent the axle shaft joints from being over extended. When
either end of the shaft is disconnected over extension of the joint could result in separation of
internal components and possible joint failure. Failure to observe this can result in interior joint or
boot damage and possible joint failure.
4. Nut and cotter pin from ball joint. 5. Separate ball joint from steering knuckle using J 38892.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Ball Joint > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 9221
NOTICE: Use only the recommended tool for separating the ball joint from knuckle. Failure to use
the recommended tool may cause damage to the ball joint and seal.
6. Drill out three rivets retaining ball joint to lower control arm. Use a 3 mm (1/8 in) drill bit to make
a pilot hole through the rivets. Finish drilling
rivets with 13 mm (1/2 in) drill bit.
Important: Do not damage drive axle boot when drilling out ball joint rivets.
7. Nut attaching link to stabilizer shaft. 8. Ball joint from steering knuckle and control arm.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Ball joint in control arm. 2. Three (3) ball joint bolts and nuts as shown on instruction sheet in ball
joint kit and tighten ball joint bolts to specifications. 3. Ball joint stud through steering knuckle. 4.
Ball joint nut.
Tighten ball joint to steering knuckle nut to 55 Nm (41 ft lb) minimum, 65 Nm (50 ft lb) maximum, to
install cotter pin. ^
Do not loosen nut any time during installation.
5. Cotter pin. 6. Nut attaching stabilizer link to stabilizer shaft.
^ Tighten nut to 17 Nm (13 ft lb).
7. Tire and wheel assembly. 8. Check front wheel alignment.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Control Arm > Control Arm Bushing >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Control Arm Bushing: Service and Repair
^ Tools Required: J 29792 Lower Control Arm Front Bushing Service Set
- J 41211 Lower Control Arm Rear Vertical Bushing Service Set
- Or Equivalents
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Lower control arm.
^ Install bushing removal tools.
^ Coat threads of tool J 29792 with an extreme pressure lubricant.
2. Lower control arm bushings.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install bushing installation tools. 2. Lower control arm bushings.
^ To ease installation, coat outer easing of new bushing with a lubricant.
3. Lower control arm.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Cross-Member > Component Information >
Service and Repair
Cross-Member: Service and Repair
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Cross-Member > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 9229
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Cross-Member > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 9230
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Cross-Member > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 9231
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Cross-Member > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 9232
^ Tool Required: J 38892 Ball Joint Separator
- Or Equivalent
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Cross-Member > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 9233
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle. 2. If suspension contact hoist is used:
^ Place jack stands under uni-body frame near crossmember.
^ Lower vehicle slightly so weight of vehicle rests on the under uni-body frame and not on the
control arms or crossmember.
3. Tire and wheel assembly. 4. Right and Left wiring harnesses from crossmember. 5. Ball joint
from knuckle using J 38892.
NOTICE: Use only the recommended tool for separating the ball joint from knuckle. Failure to use
the recommended tool may cause damage to the ball joint and seal.
6. Engine strut to crossmember. 7. Crossmember support braces. 8. Front exhaust pipe, (support
catalytic converter) Refer to Exhaust System. 9. Power steering gear bolts, (support power steering
gear).
10. Brake lines from retainers on crossmember. 11. Splash shield from crossmember. 12. Stabilizer
bar from crossmember. 13. Crossmember. 14. Control arms from crossmember.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Control arms to crossmember and snug bolts only. 2. Crossmember and snug all bolts lightly. 3.
Tighten bolts in sequence shown below.
^ Tighten: Crossmember Support Left Rear Outboard Bolt 110 Nm (71 ft lb) plus 90° rotation.
- Crossmember Support Right Rear Outboard Bolt 110 Nm (71 ft lb) plus 90° rotation.
- Crossmember Support Upper Front Bolts 110 Nm (71 ft lb) plus 90 ° rotation.
- Crossmember Support Rear Inboard Bolts 110 Nm (71 ft lb) plus 90° rotation.
4. Nut attaching ball joint to steering knuckle. Tighten to specifications.
^ Tighten ball joint to steering knuckle nut to 55 Nm (41 ft lb) minimum, 65 Nm (50 ft lb) maximum.
Important: Do not loosen nut any time during installation.
5. Power steering gear bolts, hand start bolts and nuts. Tighten left side bolt and nuts to
specification first, then tighten right side bolt and nut to
specification. ^
Refer to "STEERING GEAR" in POWER STEERING GEAR AND PUMP for tightening
specifications.
6. Front exhaust pipe. Refer to Exhaust System.
^ Refer to Exhaust System for tightening specifications.
7. Crossmember support braces.
^ Tighten crossmember braces to core support bolts 72 Nm (53 ft lb).
8. Engine strut to crossmember.
^ Refer to Engine for tightening specifications.
9. Stabilizer bar to crossmember.
^ Tighten stabilizer shaft to support assembly bolts to 66 Nm (49 ft lb).
10. Splash shield to crossmember. 11. Brake lines to retainers to crossmember 12. Right and Left
wiring harnesses to crossmember. 13. Slightly raise vehicle. 14. Remove jack stands from under
crossmember. 15. Tire and wheel assembly. 16. With vehicle at curb height, tighten control arm
attaching bolts to specifications.
^ Tighten: Control Arm to Crossmember Bolts (Front Bushing) 120 Nm (89 ft lb) plus 180° rotation
- Control Arm to Crossmember Bolts (Rear Vertical Bushing) 170 Nm (125 ft lb)
17. Check front wheel alignment.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Steering - Various Revised Tightening Specifications
Front Steering Knuckle: Technical Service Bulletins Steering - Various Revised Tightening
Specifications
CHEVROLET 73-32-03A
Issued: 05/01/97
SMU - SECTIONS 3B/3C/4D
REVISION: 04/11/97
THIS BULLETIN IS BEING REVISED TO UPDATE THE DRIVE AXLE NUT TIGHTENING
SPECIFICATIONS FOR THE N CAR. PLEASE DISCARD CORPORATE BULLETIN NUMBER
73-32-03 (SECTION 3 - STEERING/SUSPENSION).
SUBJECT: SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE - SECTIONS 3B/3C/4D - REVISED TIGHTENING
SPECIFICATIONS
MODELS: 1997 CHEVROLET CAVALIER, MALIBU 1997 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS 1997
PONTIAC SUNFIRE
THIS BULLETIN IS BEING ISSUED TO REVISE THE TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS IN
SECTIONS 3B, 3C AND 4D OF THE SERVICE MANUAL AS FOLLOWS:
J CAR
SECTIONS 3B-8, 3B-9, 3C-5 AND 3C-13:
THE CORRECT TIGHTENING SPECIFICATION IS AS FOLLOWS:
- TIE ROD END TO KNUCKLE NUT 20 N.M (15 LB FT) PLUS 90 DEGREE ROTATION.
N CAR
SECTIONS 3C-6 AND 3C-16:
THE CORRECT TIGHTENING SPECIFICATION IS AS FOLLOWS:
- TIE ROD END TO KNUCKLE NUT 20 N.M (15 LB FT) PLUS 180 DEGREE ROTATION.
SECTION 3B-12:
THE CORRECT TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS ARE AS FOLLOWS:
- STEERING COLUMN LOWER PINCH BOLT 22 N.M (16 LB FT)
- STEERING COLUMN UPPER PINCH BOLT 22 N.M (16 LB FT)
SECTIONS 3C-16, 4D-4 AND 4D-5:
THE CORRECT TIGHTENING SPECIFICATION IS AS FOLLOWS:
- FRONT DRIVE AXLE NUT 385 N.M (284 LB FT) +/- 5 N.M (44 LB IN). REPLACE THE DRIVE
AXLE NUT WITH A NEW ONE AFTER EVERY REMOVAL. NEVER RE-USE THE DRIVE AXLE
NUT.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Steering - Various Revised Tightening Specifications > Page 9238
Front Steering Knuckle: Technical Service Bulletins Brake Pad/Caliper/Knuckle - Inspect &
Maintenance
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 63-50-19
Date: January, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Inspection/Maintenance Procedure for Restricted Movement between Brake Pad and
Caliper and/or Knuckle
Models: 1990.5
Buick Electra
1991-1996 Buick Park Avenue
1991-1997 Buick LeSabre, Skylark
1990-1992 Cadillac Fleetwood
1990-1996 Cadillac DeVille
1992 Cadillac Sixty Special
1992-1996 Cadillac Eldorado, Seville
1994-1996 Cadillac Concours
1992-1996 Chevrolet Beretta, Cavalier, Corsica, Lumina APV
1993.5-1997 Chevrolet Camaro
1997 Chevrolet Malibu
1990.5-1996 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight
1991 Oldsmobile Calais
1991-1997 Oldsmobile Eighty Eight
1992 Oldsmobile Toronado
1992-1996 Oldsmobile Silhouette
1992-1997 Oldsmobile Achieva
1996-1997 Oldsmobile LSS, Regency
1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass
1991-1997 Pontiac Bonneville, Grand Am
1992-1994 Pontiac Sunbird
1992-1996 Pontiac Trans Sport
1993.5-1997 Pontiac Firebird
1995-1996 Pontiac Sunfire
Customer Service Notes
Your customers should be made aware of the maintenance requirements of their vehicle. These
owner responsibilities are described and listed in the Owner's Manual under Periodic Maintenance
Inspections. (Example: brake linings, Tire and Wheel Inspection and Rotation are owner
maintenance.)
Some of the above listed vehicles may exhibit restricted movement between the brake pad and the
caliper and/or knuckle.
Movement may be restricted by:
a. Debris, build-up, or
b. Corrosion
If the pads do not have free movement within the caliper and/or knuckle, one or both pad(s) may
remain against the rotor. This may lead to the following:
a. Early pad wear-out
b. Rotor thickness variation (may result in pulsation)
c. Rotor damage it not corrected in time.
The following procedure should be used to inspect for and correct restricted pad movement:
Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Steering - Various Revised Tightening Specifications > Page 9239
1. Move wheel and tire from vehicle.
2. Move the piston into the caliper bore using a C-clamp (Kent-Moore tool # J 42588 or equivalent).
Refer to Figure 1.
Notice:
Use care to avoid permanently bending the anti-rattle clips on the outboard brake pad, 5 mm (1/8
inch) is sufficient.
3. Check the outer brake pad for freedom of movement relative to the knuckle abutment. Refer to
Figure 2.
Important:
The brake pads must move easily within the knuckle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Steering - Various Revised Tightening Specifications > Page 9240
4. Using hands, push the caliper in as far as possible. The lining should retract with the
piston/caliper housing. Refer to Figure 3.
5. Check the inner brake pad for freedom of movement relative to the knuckle abutment. Refer to
Figure 3.
6. Repeat this procedure for the other side of the vehicle.
7. If all pads move freely, go to Step # 7 under "Correction" and install the wheels and tires. If
movement is restricted, proceed with Step # 1 under "Correction."
Correction
If restricted pad movement is noted on one or more calipers, perform the following "clean and
lubricate" procedure.
1. Remove the brake pads from the caliper.
2. Remove all debris and corrosion from the knuckle using a wire brush at any points where the
brake pads come in contact with the knuckle and/or caliper. If the corrosion is severe, use a
scraper first. Refer to Figure 4.
3. Using a wire brush/scraper, remove all debris and corrosion from the brake pad metal backing
shoe in the areas where the shoes contact the
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Steering - Various Revised Tightening Specifications > Page 9241
knuckle and/or the caliper. Refer to Figures 2 and 3.
4. Coat all areas of the knuckle and/or caliper where the brake pad shoes contact using a high
temperature silicone grease, P/N 18010909 or equivalent. Refer to Figure 4.
5. Install the brake pads and caliper on the vehicle.
6. Repeat Steps 1 - 5 on the other caliper brake assembly. If one caliper needs service, do both
sides.
7. Reinstall wheels and tires on the vehicle.
Important:
Evenly torque wheel nuts to specification using a torque wrench or a torque limiting socket/stick.
A torque wrench or torque stick must be used to insure that wheel nuts are tightened to
specification. This should be done in three steps using the star pattern. First, snug the nuts down
by hand. Second, using the star pattern and a torque stick/wrench, tighten the wheel nuts to about
half the final torque. Third, tighten the wheel nuts to specification using the star pattern and a
torque stick/wrench. Use the same amount of impact wrench operating time as would normally be
used without a torque stick.
8. Pump the brake pedal as many times as required to obtain a firm brake pedal.
Caution:
DO NOT move the vehicle until a firm brake pedal is obtained. Failure to obtain a firm brake pedal
before moving vehicle may result in personal injury.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information
> Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service
Front Steering Knuckle: Service and Repair On-Vehicle Service
^ Tools Required: J 38892 Ball Joint Separator
- J 28733-A Front Hub Spindle Remover
- Or Equivalents
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Hub and bearing assembly. 2. Bolts attaching steering knuckle to strut. 3. Lower ball joint cotter
pin and nut.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Steering knuckle into strut and install steering knuckle-to-strut assembly bolts.
^ Tighten steering knuckle-to-strut assembly nuts to 180 Nm (133 ft. lbs.).
2. Hub and bearing assembly onto knuckle and install hub and bearing assembly bolts. 3. Lower
ball joint nut and cotter pin.
^ Lower ball joint nut to 55 Nm (41 ft. lbs.) minimum, 65 Nm (50 ft. lbs.) maximum, to install cotter
pin.
4. Check front wheel alignment.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information
> Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 9244
Front Steering Knuckle: Service and Repair Strut and Knuckle Scribing
1. Using a sharp tool, scribe the knuckle along the lower outboard strut radius as shown. 2. Scribe
the strut flange on the inboard side along the curve of the knuckle, as shown. 3. Make a scribe
mark across the strut/knuckle interface as shown. 4. On reassembly, carefully match the marks to
the or components.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Rear Knuckle > Component Information >
Description and Operation
Rear Knuckle: Description and Operation
The knuckle is a machined aluminum casting, do not use a hammer to loosen suspension
components attached to the knuckle. Do not pry or hammer on aluminum knuckle in any way.
Following these instructions will avoid damage to parts and systems.
Aside from maintaining geometric wheel location, each portion of the suspension has additional
functions. The knuckle supports the brake drum. All brake torque and braking forces are
transmitted through the tri-links and strut. The final duty of the links are to maintain the camber
angle of the wheel throughout its travel and allow for setting toe. The overall result of this rear
suspension geometry is to maintain the rear wheels in a near vertical position at all times.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Rear Knuckle > Component Information >
Description and Operation > Page 9248
Rear Knuckle: Service and Repair
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Rear Knuckle > Component Information >
Description and Operation > Page 9249
^ Tool Required: J 36660 Torque Angle Meter
- Or Equivalent
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise and suitably support vehicle. 2. Tire and wheel. 3. Scribe strut and knuckle. 4. Rear lateral
links-to-knuckle nut, bolt, and washers. 5. Drum. Refer to Brakes and Traction Control. 6. ABS
electrical connector. 7. Rear wheel hub. 8. Trailing arm from knuckle. 9. Rear suspension strut
nuts.
10. Rear suspension strut to knuckle bolts. 11. Knuckle.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for the application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener tightening specification and the
joint clamping
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Rear Knuckle > Component Information >
Description and Operation > Page 9250
force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening
sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and
systems.
1. Knuckle. 2. Rear suspension strut to knuckle bolts.
^ Hand start nuts only.
^ Do NOT tighten at this time.
3. Lateral links to knuckle and snug nut.
^ Tighten lateral links to knuckle nut to 120 Nm (89 ft lb).
4. Trailing arm to knuckle.
^ Tighten nut to 69 Nm (51 ft lb).
5. Rear wheel hub.
^ Tighten bolts to 95 Nm (70 ft lb).
6. ABS electrical connector. 7. Drum. Refer to Brakes and Traction Control.
^ Tighten strut to knuckle bolts to 120 Nm (89 ft lb).
8. Tire and wheel. 9. Lower vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Rear Knuckle Alignment Link > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Rear Lateral Links and Trailing Arms Replacement (Front)
Rear Knuckle Alignment Link: Service and Repair Rear Lateral Links and Trailing Arms
Replacement (Front)
^ Tool Required:
- J 36660 Torque Angle Meter
- Or Equivalent
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise and suitably support vehicle. 2. Tire and wheel. 3. ABS wire harness from lateral link. 4.
Link-to-knuckle nut, bolt, and washer. 5. Link nut at rear suspension support. 6. Push bolt forward
enough to provide link removal clearance. 7. Rear link (front).
INSTALL OR CONNECT
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Rear Knuckle Alignment Link > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Rear Lateral Links and Trailing Arms Replacement (Front) > Page 9255
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for the application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener tightening specification and the
joint clamping force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct
tightening sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to
parts and systems.
1. Rear link (front). 2. Push bolt forward into link. 3. Link nut at rear suspension support. 4. ABS
wire harness to lateral link.
^ Tighten rear link bolt to suspension support 120 Nm (89 ft lb).
5. Link-to-knuckle bolt, and washer.
^ Tighten link-to-knuckle bolt to 120 Nm (89 ft lb).
6. Tire and wheel. 7. Lower Vehicle.
^ Adjust toe. Refer to Alignment.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Rear Knuckle Alignment Link > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Rear Lateral Links and Trailing Arms Replacement (Front) > Page 9256
Rear Knuckle Alignment Link: Service and Repair Rear Lateral Links and Trailing Arms
Replacement (Rear)
^ Tool Required: J 36660 Torque Angle Meter
- Or Equivalent
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise and suitably support vehicle. 2. Tire and wheel. 3. Link to knuckle bolt, nut, and washer. 4.
Link nut at rear suspension support. 5. Push bolt forward enough to provide link removal clearance.
6. Rear lateral link.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for the application.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Rear Knuckle Alignment Link > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Rear Lateral Links and Trailing Arms Replacement (Front) > Page 9257
The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that require a replacement after removal. The
manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS
OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion
inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely
affect the fastener tightening specification and the joint clamping force, and may damage the
fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and specifications.
Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
1. Trailing arm-to-knuckle bolt, washer, and bushing. 2. Push bolt forward into link. 3. Link nut at
rear suspension support.
^ Tighten rear lateral link to suspension support bolt to 120 Nm (89 ft lb).
4. Link to knuckle bolt, and washer.
^ Tighten lateral link to knuckle to 120 Nm (89 ft lb).
5. Tire and wheel. 6. Lower vehicle.
^ Adjust toe. Refer to Alignment.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Stabilizer Bar, Sway Control > Stabilizer Bar
Bracket > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Stabilizer Bar Bracket: >
00-03-09-003 > Nov > 00 > Rear Suspension - Creak/Pop Noise
Stabilizer Bar Bracket: Customer Interest Rear Suspension - Creak/Pop Noise
File In Section: 03 - Suspension
Bulletin No.: 00-03-09-003
Date: November, 2000
Subject: Rear Suspension Creak/Pop Noise (Install Rear Suspension Support Insulators)
Models: 1997-2001 Chevrolet Malibu 1997-99
Oldsmobile Cutlass
Built Prior to VIN Breakpoints - 1M531582 (Lansing) or 16145701 (Oklahoma City)
Condition Some customers may comment about a creak/pop noise coming from the rear of the
vehicle. This condition is most apparent during a twist-ditch maneuver, such as entering a driveway
or an aggressive acceleration or braking during a turn.
Cause This condition may be caused by movement between the rear stabilizer clamps and the rear
suspension support during certain types of maneuvers.
Correction Install rear suspension support insulators, P/N 22614408, onto the rear suspension
support (in the area of the stabilizer shaft clamp upper rectangular holes), using the following
procedure:
1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the nuts and the clamps securing the stabilizer shaft to the rear suspension support.
3. Install a rear suspension support insulator, P/N 22614408, onto the rear suspension support at
each of the rectangular stabilizer shaft clamp holes. With the open end of the insulators pointing
upward, slide the insulators upward onto the support through the clamp holes.
4. Install the stabilizer shaft clamps and hand start nuts.
Tighten Tighten the nuts to 53 Nm (39 lb ft).
5. Remove the vehicle support and lower the vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Stabilizer Bar, Sway Control > Stabilizer Bar
Bracket > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Stabilizer Bar Bracket: >
00-03-09-003 > Nov > 00 > Rear Suspension - Creak/Pop Noise > Page 9267
Parts Information Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
WARRANTY INFORMATION For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Stabilizer Bar, Sway Control > Stabilizer Bar
Bracket > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Stabilizer Bar Bracket:
> 00-03-09-003 > Nov > 00 > Rear Suspension - Creak/Pop Noise
Stabilizer Bar Bracket: All Technical Service Bulletins Rear Suspension - Creak/Pop Noise
File In Section: 03 - Suspension
Bulletin No.: 00-03-09-003
Date: November, 2000
Subject: Rear Suspension Creak/Pop Noise (Install Rear Suspension Support Insulators)
Models: 1997-2001 Chevrolet Malibu 1997-99
Oldsmobile Cutlass
Built Prior to VIN Breakpoints - 1M531582 (Lansing) or 16145701 (Oklahoma City)
Condition Some customers may comment about a creak/pop noise coming from the rear of the
vehicle. This condition is most apparent during a twist-ditch maneuver, such as entering a driveway
or an aggressive acceleration or braking during a turn.
Cause This condition may be caused by movement between the rear stabilizer clamps and the rear
suspension support during certain types of maneuvers.
Correction Install rear suspension support insulators, P/N 22614408, onto the rear suspension
support (in the area of the stabilizer shaft clamp upper rectangular holes), using the following
procedure:
1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the nuts and the clamps securing the stabilizer shaft to the rear suspension support.
3. Install a rear suspension support insulator, P/N 22614408, onto the rear suspension support at
each of the rectangular stabilizer shaft clamp holes. With the open end of the insulators pointing
upward, slide the insulators upward onto the support through the clamp holes.
4. Install the stabilizer shaft clamps and hand start nuts.
Tighten Tighten the nuts to 53 Nm (39 lb ft).
5. Remove the vehicle support and lower the vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Stabilizer Bar, Sway Control > Stabilizer Bar
Bracket > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Stabilizer Bar Bracket:
> 00-03-09-003 > Nov > 00 > Rear Suspension - Creak/Pop Noise > Page 9273
Parts Information Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
WARRANTY INFORMATION For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Stabilizer Bar, Sway Control > Stabilizer Bushing
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Stabilizer Bushing: > 01-03-08-003A > Feb
> 02 > Suspension - Front/Rear Squawking Noise
Stabilizer Bushing: Customer Interest Suspension - Front/Rear Squawking Noise
File In Section: 03 - Suspension
Bulletin No.: 01-03-08-003A
Date: February, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject: Squawk Noise from Front and/or Rear Suspension (Lubricate Stabilizer Bushings)
Models: 1997-2002 Chevrolet Malibu 1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999-2002 Oldsmobile Alero
1999-2002 Pontiac Grand Am
This is being revised to include additional graphics and torque specifications.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-03-08-003 (Suspension).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a squawk noise from the front and/or rear suspension while
driving.
Cause
The noise may be due to a slip/stick condition between the front and/or rear stabilizer bushings.
Correction
Follow the service procedure below and lubricate the front and/or rear stabilizer bushings with
Special Lubricant High Temperature, P/N 12345879 (in Canada, use P/N 10953511).
Service Procedure for Front Suspension
1. Raise and support the vehicle allowing the front suspension to hang free. Refer to Lifting and
Jacking the Vehicle (SI2000 Document ID # 632491) in the General Information sub-section of the
Service Manual.
2. Remove the stabilizer shaft links. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement (SI2000 Document
ID # 635842) in the Front Suspension sub-section of the Service Manual.
3. Support the rear of the crossmember with an adjustable jack stand.
4. Remove the rear bolts from the crossmember.
5. Remove the lower control arm rear bolts.
6. Lower the rear of the crossmember with the adjustable jack stand.
7. Remove the power steering line bracket from the suspension crossmember on the right side of
the vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Stabilizer Bar, Sway Control > Stabilizer Bushing
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Stabilizer Bushing: > 01-03-08-003A > Feb
> 02 > Suspension - Front/Rear Squawking Noise > Page 9282
8. Remove the bolts (1) from the insulator brackets (2) attaching the stabilizer shaft (3) to the
crossmember (4).
9. Remove the stabilizer shaft insulators and lubricate the entire insulator with Special Lubricant,
P/N 12345879 (in Canada, use P/N 10953511).
10. Install the lubricated insulators back onto the stabilizer shaft.
11. Install the insulator brackets (2) and the bolts (1) to the stabilizer shaft (3).
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 69 N.m (51 lb ft).
12. Install the power steering line bracket from the suspension crossmember on the right side of
the vehicle.
13. Raise the rear of the crossmember with the adjustable jack stand.
Important:
Cross member nuts (1) and (6) are captured nuts.
14. Install the rear lower control arm bolts (3) through the crossmember.
Tighten
Tighten the rear lower control arm bolts (3) to 245 Nm (180 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Stabilizer Bar, Sway Control > Stabilizer Bushing
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Stabilizer Bushing: > 01-03-08-003A > Feb
> 02 > Suspension - Front/Rear Squawking Noise > Page 9283
15. Install the rear crossmember bolts (2). Tighten
Tighten the rear cross member bolts (2) to 70 N.m (52 lb ft).
16. Lower the vehicle and road test.
Service Procedure for Rear Suspension.
1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle (SI2000 Document ID #
632491) in the General Information sub-section of the Service Manual.
2. Remove the stabilizer shaft insulator brackets (5) and the nuts (6) from the stabilizer shaft (2).
3. Remove the stabilizer shaft insulators and lubricate the entire insulator with Special Lubricant,
P/N 12345879 (in Canada, use P/N 10953511).
4. Install the lubricated insulators back onto the stabilizer shaft.
5. Install the stabilizer shaft insulator brackets (5) to the stabilizer shaft (2) and the nuts (6).
Tighten
Tighten the stabilizer shaft insulator bracket nuts to 53 N~m (39 lb ft).
6. Lower the vehicle and road test.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Stabilizer Bar, Sway Control > Stabilizer Bushing
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Stabilizer Bushing: > 01-03-08-003A > Feb
> 02 > Suspension - Front/Rear Squawking Noise > Page 9284
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Stabilizer Bar, Sway Control > Stabilizer Bushing
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Stabilizer Bushing: >
01-03-08-003A > Feb > 02 > Suspension - Front/Rear Squawking Noise
Stabilizer Bushing: All Technical Service Bulletins Suspension - Front/Rear Squawking Noise
File In Section: 03 - Suspension
Bulletin No.: 01-03-08-003A
Date: February, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject: Squawk Noise from Front and/or Rear Suspension (Lubricate Stabilizer Bushings)
Models: 1997-2002 Chevrolet Malibu 1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999-2002 Oldsmobile Alero
1999-2002 Pontiac Grand Am
This is being revised to include additional graphics and torque specifications.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-03-08-003 (Suspension).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a squawk noise from the front and/or rear suspension while
driving.
Cause
The noise may be due to a slip/stick condition between the front and/or rear stabilizer bushings.
Correction
Follow the service procedure below and lubricate the front and/or rear stabilizer bushings with
Special Lubricant High Temperature, P/N 12345879 (in Canada, use P/N 10953511).
Service Procedure for Front Suspension
1. Raise and support the vehicle allowing the front suspension to hang free. Refer to Lifting and
Jacking the Vehicle (SI2000 Document ID # 632491) in the General Information sub-section of the
Service Manual.
2. Remove the stabilizer shaft links. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement (SI2000 Document
ID # 635842) in the Front Suspension sub-section of the Service Manual.
3. Support the rear of the crossmember with an adjustable jack stand.
4. Remove the rear bolts from the crossmember.
5. Remove the lower control arm rear bolts.
6. Lower the rear of the crossmember with the adjustable jack stand.
7. Remove the power steering line bracket from the suspension crossmember on the right side of
the vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Stabilizer Bar, Sway Control > Stabilizer Bushing
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Stabilizer Bushing: >
01-03-08-003A > Feb > 02 > Suspension - Front/Rear Squawking Noise > Page 9290
8. Remove the bolts (1) from the insulator brackets (2) attaching the stabilizer shaft (3) to the
crossmember (4).
9. Remove the stabilizer shaft insulators and lubricate the entire insulator with Special Lubricant,
P/N 12345879 (in Canada, use P/N 10953511).
10. Install the lubricated insulators back onto the stabilizer shaft.
11. Install the insulator brackets (2) and the bolts (1) to the stabilizer shaft (3).
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 69 N.m (51 lb ft).
12. Install the power steering line bracket from the suspension crossmember on the right side of
the vehicle.
13. Raise the rear of the crossmember with the adjustable jack stand.
Important:
Cross member nuts (1) and (6) are captured nuts.
14. Install the rear lower control arm bolts (3) through the crossmember.
Tighten
Tighten the rear lower control arm bolts (3) to 245 Nm (180 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Stabilizer Bar, Sway Control > Stabilizer Bushing
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Stabilizer Bushing: >
01-03-08-003A > Feb > 02 > Suspension - Front/Rear Squawking Noise > Page 9291
15. Install the rear crossmember bolts (2). Tighten
Tighten the rear cross member bolts (2) to 70 N.m (52 lb ft).
16. Lower the vehicle and road test.
Service Procedure for Rear Suspension.
1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle (SI2000 Document ID #
632491) in the General Information sub-section of the Service Manual.
2. Remove the stabilizer shaft insulator brackets (5) and the nuts (6) from the stabilizer shaft (2).
3. Remove the stabilizer shaft insulators and lubricate the entire insulator with Special Lubricant,
P/N 12345879 (in Canada, use P/N 10953511).
4. Install the lubricated insulators back onto the stabilizer shaft.
5. Install the stabilizer shaft insulator brackets (5) to the stabilizer shaft (2) and the nuts (6).
Tighten
Tighten the stabilizer shaft insulator bracket nuts to 53 N~m (39 lb ft).
6. Lower the vehicle and road test.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Stabilizer Bar, Sway Control > Stabilizer Bushing
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Stabilizer Bushing: >
01-03-08-003A > Feb > 02 > Suspension - Front/Rear Squawking Noise > Page 9292
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Stabilizer Bar, Sway Control > Stabilizer Bushing
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension
Stabilizer Bushing: Service and Repair Front Suspension
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Stabilizer Bar, Sway Control > Stabilizer Bushing
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 9295
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle and suitably support. Allow front suspension to hang free. 2. Front tire and wheel
assemblies. 3. Stabilizer links at control arm. 4. Tie rods from knuckle. 5. Rear engine mount
bracket bolts, refer to Crossmember. 6. Rear crossmember bolts. 7. Loosen front crossmember
bolts. 8. Clamps attaching stabilizer shaft to crossmember assemblies. 9. Stabilizer shaft bushings.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Stabilizer shaft bushings. 2. Clamps attaching stabilizer shaft to crossmember assemblies (hand
tighten). 3. Crossmember assemblies into position and install bolts (hand tighten). 4. Tighten
crossmember bolts left rear outboard first, right rear outboard second, front upper third, rear
inboard last to specifications.
^ Tighten: Left rear outboard bolt, first to 110 Nm (71 ft lb) plus 90° rotation.
- Right rear outboard bolt, second to 110 Nm (71 ft lb) plus 90° rotation.
- Front upper bolts third to 110 Nm (71 ft lb) plus 90° rotation.
- Rear inboard bolts last to 110 Nm (71 ft lb) plus 90° rotation.
5. Tighten clamp bolts to crossmember to specifications.
^ Tighten stabilizer shaft bushing clamp to support assembly bolts to 66 Nm (49 ft lb).
6. Tighten stabilizer links to control arm.
^ Tighten stabilizer shaft links to control arm nuts to 17 Nm (13 ft lb).
7. Tie rods to knuckle. 8. Rear engine mount bracket bolts, refer to Crossmember. 9. Front wheel
and tire assemblies.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Stabilizer Bar, Sway Control > Stabilizer Bushing
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 9296
Stabilizer Bushing: Service and Repair Rear Suspension
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise and suitably support vehicle. 2. Stabilizer shaft bracket bolt from rear suspension support.
3. Separate bracket and remove insulator.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for the application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener tightening specification and the
joint clamping force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct
tightening sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to
parts and systems.
1. Insulator to stabilizer shaft and stabilizer bracket. 2. Stabilizer shaft bracket bolt to rear
suspension support.
^ Tighten link bolt to 69 Nm (51 ft lb).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Stabilizer Bar, Sway Control > Stabilizer Bushing
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 9297
3. Lower vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Stabilizer Bar, Sway Control > Stabilizer Link >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Stabilizer Link: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise and suitably support vehicle. 2. Rear stabilizer shaft link bolt. 3. Rear stabilizer shaft link
from knuckle. 4. Link from stabilizer shaft.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for the application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener tightening specification and the
joint clamping force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct
tightening sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to
parts and systems.
1. Link to stabilizer shaft. 2. Rear stabilizer shaft link to knuckle.
^ Tighten rear stabilizer shaft link to knuckle bolt 69 Nm (51 ft lb).
3. Lower vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Suspension - Shock Absorber/Strut Leakage Information
Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber: Technical Service Bulletins Suspension - Shock
Absorber/Strut Leakage Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 05-03-08-002C
Date: October 16, 2009
Subject: Information on Replacement of Shock Absorbers and Struts Due to Fluid Leaks
Models:
2010 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2010 model year and Inspection Procedures.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-03-08-002B (Section 03 - Suspension).
This bulletin is intended to help identify the severity of shock absorber and strut fluid seepage.
Improper diagnosis may lead to components being replaced that are within the manufacturer's
specification. Shock absorbers and strut assemblies are fluid-filled components and will normally
exhibit some seepage. Seepage is defined as oil film or dust accumulation on the exterior of the
shock housing. Shock absorbers and struts are not to be replaced under warranty for seepage.
Use the following information to determine if the condition is normal acceptable seepage or a
defective component.
Important Electronically controlled shock absorbers (MR) may have a tendency to attract dust to
this oil film. Often this film and dust can be wiped off and will not return until similar mileage is
accumulated again.
Inspection Procedure
Note
The shock absorber or strut assembly DOES NOT have to be removed from the vehicle to perform
the following inspection procedure.
Use the following descriptions and graphics to determine the serviceability of the component.
Shock Absorbers
Do Not Replace shock absorbers displaying condition 1 or 2 levels of seepage.
1. Oil or fluid residue only on the bottom or top of the shock absorber and not originating from the
shaft seal (the upper part of the lower shock tube). 2. Light film/residue on approximately 1/3 (a) or
less of the lower shock tube (A) and originating from the shaft seal.
Replace shock absorbers displaying conditions 3 and 4 levels of leaks.
3. Oil drip or trail down the lower shock tube and originating from the shaft seal. 4. An extreme wet
film of oil covering more than 1/3 (b) of the lower shock tube and originating from the shaft seal.
Coil-over Shock Absorber
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Suspension - Shock Absorber/Strut Leakage Information > Page 9305
Do Not Replace coil-over shock absorbers displaying condition 1 or 2 levels of seepage.
1. Oil or fluid residue only on the bottom of the lower shock absorber tube or the coil-over shock
absorber components and not originating from the
shaft seal (located at the top of the coil-over shock tube).
2. Light film/residue on the shock absorber tube, but not on the spring seat and originating from the
shaft seal.
Replace coil-over shock absorbers displaying conditions 3 and 4 levels of leaks.
3. Oil drip or trail down the lower shock tube and originating from the shaft seal. 4. An extreme, wet
film of oil covering the shock absorber tube and pooling in the spring seat and originating from the
shaft seal.
Struts
Do Not Replace Struts displaying condition 1 or 2 levels of seepage.
1. Oil or fluid residue only on the bottom of the strut tube or on other strut components and not
originating from the shaft seal. 2. Light film/residue on the strut tube, but not on the spring seat and
originating from the shaft seal.
Replace Struts displaying conditions 3 and 4 levels of leaks.
3. Oil drip or trail down the strut tube and originating from the shaft seal (located at the top of the
strut tube). 4. Extreme wet film of oil covering the strut tube and pooling in the spring seat and
originating from the shaft seal.
Correction
Use the information published in SI for diagnosis and repair.
Use the applicable published labor operation.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Suspension - Shock Absorber/Strut Leakage Information > Page 9306
Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber: Technical Service Bulletins Suspension - Shock
Absorber/Strut Replacement Guidlines
File In Section: Warranty Administration
Bulletin No.: 72-05-12
Date: January, 1998
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Subject: Replacement of Shock Absorbers and Struts Labor Operations E3800, E3801, E3807,
E5800, E5801, E5807, E3850, E3851, E3857, E5750, E5751, and E5757
Models: All Past, Present, and Future Passenger Cars & Trucks
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide retail and wholesale service personnel with enhanced
service policies for the above listed subject labor operations.
Service Management should make certain that all dealership personnel responsible for
replacement of suspension components are familiar with GM Service Manual procedures.
Effective with repair orders dated on or after January 15, 1998 the following must also be followed:
- Shock absorber/strut assemblies are fluid filled components and will normally exhibit seepage.
Seepage is defined as oil film or dust accumulation on the exterior of the shock housing. Shock
absorber/strut assemblies are not to be replaced under warranty or seepage.
- Defective shock absorber/strut assemblies will have a visible oil path or drip coming from the
component. A visible oil path or drip coming from the shock absorber/strut assembly should be
replaced as a defective component.
- Only defective shock absorber/strut assemblies should be replaced. DO NOT replace pairs unless
both are defective, unless otherwise instructed in the Service Manual and/or Service Bulletin.
- Service Management approval is required on the repair order for replacement of struts or shocks
in pairs. This approval includes noting the reason for replacement.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 9307
Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber: Description and Operation
The suspension system should be periodically checked for shock absorbency, bushing durability,
tightness of attaching bolts and for any visible damage, misalignment or excessive wear.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > General Procedure
Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber: Testing and Inspection General Procedure
The strut dampener is basically a shock absorber. Strut dampeners are easier than shock
absorbers to extend and retract by hand.
The procedure includes both on-vehicle and off-vehicle checks to be done when evaluating the
performance of strut dampeners and shock absorbers.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > General Procedure > Page 9310
Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber: Testing and Inspection On-Vehicle Checks
WEAK CONDITION
For struts, follow Steps 1 through 4. 1. Check and adjust tire pressures to the pressures shown on
the Tire Placard. 2. Note the load conditions under which the vehicle is normally driven. 3. If
practical, ride with the owner to be sure you understand the complaint before proceeding to next
step. 4. Test each strut dampener/shock in turn by quickly pushing down, then lifting up (bouncing),
the corner of the bumper nearest the strut
dampener/shock being checked. Use the same amount of effort on each test and note the
resistance on compression and rebound. Compare this with a similar vehicle having acceptable
ride quality. Both strut dampeners/shocks should provide the same feeling of resistance.
NOISY CONDITION
For struts, follow Steps 1 through 4. 1. Check all mountings for proper tightening specification. A
loose mounting will cause a noise. 2. If all mountings are intact, bounce the vehicle as in Step 4 (in
"WEAK CONDITION" above) to isolate the suspected unit. 3. If practical, ride with the owner to be
sure you understand the complaint. 4. Other objectionable noises may be detected by jouncing the
vehicle up and down. Any sound coming from the shock other than hissing is
abnormal, therefore replace the shock.
LEAKS
1. Fully extend the strut/shocks (wheels unsupported) to expose the seal cover area for inspection.
2. Look for signs of leaks in the seal cover area. 3. A slight trace of fluid is NOT cause for
replacement; the seal permits some seepage to lubricate the piston rod. There is a built in fluid
reserve to
allow for seepage.
4. A leaking strut dampener/shock can easily be found because there will be fluid around the seal
cover and an excessive amount of fluid on the strut
dampener/shock. A leaking strut dampener/shock must be replaced.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > General Procedure > Page 9311
Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber: Testing and Inspection Off-Vehicle Checks
All strut dampeners and shock absorbers should be stroked before attempting a bench check.
When stored horizontally, such as new units in stock, an air pocket will develop in the pressure
chamber. An air pocket will also form if the vehicle has been stationary for a period of time.
Do the following to remove air from the pressure chamber: ^
Extend in vertical position - top end up.
^ Collapse in vertical position - top end down.
^ Do this again five more times to make sure air is purged from the pressure chamber.
Proceed with the actual bench check as follows: 1. Clamp a vise on the bottom mount with the strut
dampener or shock absorber upright in the vise top end up. Do not clamp on the reservoir tube or
the mounting threads.
2. Pump strut dampener or shock absorber by hand at various rates of speed and note the
resistance. 3. Rebound resistance normally is stronger than compression resistance by about 2 to
1. However, the resistance should be smooth and constant for
each stroking rate.
4. Compare with a strut dampener or shock absorber known to be good. 5. It is normal to hear a
hissing noise. The following symptoms are abnormal and are reason for replacement.
A. A skip or lag at reversal near mid-stroke. B. A seize (except at either extreme end of travel). C. A
Noise (such as a grunt or squeal) after completing one full stroke in both directions. D. A clicking
noise at fast reversal. E. Fluid leakage.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service Suspension Strut
Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber: Service and Repair On-Vehicle Service Suspension Strut
Rear Suspension
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service Suspension Strut > Page 9314
GENERAL INFORMATION
The front knuckle is a machined aluminum casting, do not use a hammer to loosen suspension
components attached to the knuckle. Do not pry or
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service Suspension Strut > Page 9315
hammer on aluminum knuckle in any way. Following these instructions will avoid damage to parts
and systems.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise and suitably support vehicle. 2. Tire and wheel. 3. Scribe strut to knuckle. 4. Strut
mount-to-body nut in trunk area. 5. Strut bolts from inside fender well. 6. Strut from knuckle bolts. 7.
Strut from body.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for the application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener tightening specification and the
joint clamping force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct
tightening sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to
parts and systems.
1. Strut to knuckle bolts loosely. 2. Strut to body bolts inside fender well.
Important: Align scribe marks to ensure proper alignment.
3. Strut mount-to-body nuts in trunk area. 4. Strut to knuckle bolts.
^ Tighten nuts to 120 Nm (89 ft lb).
5. Tire and wheel. 6. Lower vehicle. 7. Check alignment.
Strut Modification
Prior to performing a camber adjustment, the lower strut-to-knuckle hole on the strut must be
elongated to allow the knuckle to be moved.
For appearance reasons and corrosion protection, it is important that the area filed should be
painted after modification with a rust preventative paint.
Strut modification can be performed on or off vehicle. 1. If the strut is on the vehicle, disconnect the
strut from knuckle. If strut is off the vehicle, place strut in vise. 2. File lower hole until outer flange
slot matches inner flange slot. 3. Reconnect strut to knuckle and check wheel alignment. 4. Adjust
camber if necessary. Refer to Alignment.
Strut Assembly
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service Suspension Strut > Page 9316
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service Suspension Strut > Page 9317
^ Tool Required: J 24319-01 Tie Rod End Puller
- Or Equivalent
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Nuts and bolt attaching top of strut assembly to body. 2. Raise vehicle and suitably support. 3.
Place jack stands under front crossmember. 4. Lower vehicle slightly so the weight of the vehicle
rests on the jack stands and not the control arms. 5. Tire and wheel assembly.
NOTICE: Care must be exercised to prevent the drive axle joints from being over-extended. When
either end of the shaft is disconnected, over-extension of the joint could result in separation of
internal components and possible joint failure. Drive axle joint boot protectors should be used any
time service is performed on or near the drive axles. Failure to observe this can result in interior
joint or boot damage and possible joint failure.
6. Brake line bracket. 7. Nut, and separate tie rod end from strut assembly using J 24319-01. 8.
Scribe strut flange. 9. Bolts attaching strut to steering knuckle.
10. Strut assembly from vehicle.
NOTICE: Care should be taken to avoid chipping or scratching the spring coating when handling
the front suspension coil spring. Damage to the coating can cause premature failure.
Important: Steering knuckle must be supported to prevent axle joint over-extension.
11. Refer to DISASSEMBLE/ASSEMBLE STRUT for unit repair.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service Suspension Strut > Page 9318
NOTICE: Care should be taken to avoid chipping or scratching the spring coating when handling
the front suspension coil spring. Damage to the coating can cause premature failure.
1. Strut into position and install two nuts and one bolt connecting strut assembly to body. 2. Align
steering knuckle with strut flange scribe mark and install bolts and nuts.
^ Tighten nuts to 180 Nm (133 ft lb).
3. Tie rod end into strut assembly and install tie rod end nut.
^ Tighten tie rod end nut to 20 Nm (15 ft lb) plus 90° rotation.
4. Tighten nuts and bolt attaching top of strut assembly to body to specifications.
^ Tighten: Nuts to 25 Nm (18 ft lb).
- Bolt to 25 Nm (18 ft lb).
5. Brake line bracket. 6. If suspension contact hoist is used:
^ Slightly raise vehicle.
^ Remove jack stands from under crossmember.
7. Tire and wheel assembly. 8. Check front wheel alignment.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service Suspension Strut > Page 9319
Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber: Service and Repair Unit Repair Suspension Strut
Front Suspension
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service Suspension Strut > Page 9320
^ Tools Required: J 3289-20 Holding Fixture
- J 34013-47 Template
- J 34013-A Strut Compressor
- J 34013-20 Dampener Rod Clamp
- J 34013-27 Alignment Rod
- Or Equivalents
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service Suspension Strut > Page 9321
DISASSEMBLE
NOTICE: Care should be taken to avoid scratching or cracking the spring coating when handling
the front suspension coil spring. Damage can cause premature failure.
1. Mount Strut Compressor J 34013 in Holding Fixture J 3289-20. 2. Mount strut into Strut
Compressor. Notice that Strut Compressor has strut mounting holes drilled for specific car line. 3.
Compress strut approximately 1/2 its height after initial contact with top cap. NEVER BOTTOM
SPRING OR DAMPENER ROD. 4. Remove the nut from the strut dampener shaft and place J
34013-27 Guiding Rod on top of the dampener shaft. Use this rod to guide the dampener
shaft straight down through the bearing cap while decompressing the spring. Remove components.
ASSEMBLE
NOTICE: Care should be taken to avoid scratching or cracking the spring coating when handling
the front suspension coil spring. Damage can cause premature failure.
1. Install bearing cap into Strut Compressor if previously removed. 2. Mount strut into Strut
Compressor using bottom locking pin only. Extend dampener shaft and install clamp J 34013-20 on
dampener shaft. 3. Install spring over dampener and swing assembly up so upper locking pin can
be installed. Install upper insulator, shield, bumper, and upper spring
seat. Be sure flat on upper spring seat is facing in the proper direction. The spring seat flat should
be facing the same direction as the centerline of strut assembly spindle.
4. Install J 34013-27 and turn forcing screw while J 34013-27 centers the assembly. When threads
on dampener shaft are visible, remove J 34013-27
and install nut.
5. Tighten nut to 70 Nm (52 ft lb). Use a line wrench while holding dampener shaft with socket. 6.
Remove clamp.
Rear Suspension
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service Suspension Strut > Page 9322
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service Suspension Strut > Page 9323
^ Tools Required: J 3289-20 Holding Fixture
- J 34013-47 Template
- J 34013-A Strut Compressor
- J 34013-20 Clamp
- J 34013-27 Alignment Rod
- Or Equivalents
DISASSEMBLE
NOTICE: Care should be taken to avoid scratching or cracking the spring coating when handling
the rear suspension coil spring. Damage can cause premature failure.
1. Mount Strut Compressor J 34013-A in Holding Fixture J 3289-20. 2. Mount strut into Strut
Compressor. Notice that Strut Compressor has strut mounting holes drilled for specific model of
vehicle. 3. Compress strut approximately 1/2 its height after initial contact with top cap. NEVER
BOTTOM SPRING OR DAMPENER ROD. 4. Remove the nut from the strut dampener shaft. 5.
Remove components.
ASSEMBLE
NOTICE: Care should be taken to avoid scratching or cracking the spring coating when handling
the rear suspension coil spring. Damage can cause premature failure.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service Suspension Strut > Page 9324
1. Mount strut into Strut Compressor using bottom locking pin only. Extend dampener shaft. 2.
Install spring over dampener and swing assembly up so upper locking pin can be installed. Install
shield, bumper, and upper spring seat. 3. Install J 34013-27 and turn forcing screw while J
34013-27 centers the assembly. When threads on dampener shaft are visible, remove J 34013-27
and install nut.
4. Tighten nut to 70 Nm (52 ft lb). Use a line wrench while holding dampener shaft with socket. 5.
Remove clamp.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Service and Repair > On-Vehicle Service Suspension Strut > Page 9325
Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber: Service and Repair Strut and Knuckle Scribing
1. Using a sharp tool, scribe the knuckle along the lower outboard strut radius as shown. 2. Scribe
the strut flange on the inboard side along the curve of the knuckle, as shown. 3. Make a scribe
mark across the strut/knuckle interface as shown. 4. On reassembly, carefully match the marks to
the or components.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Trailing Arm > Component Information > Service
and Repair
Trailing Arm: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise and suitably support vehicle. 2. Trailing arm-to-knuckle bolt, washer, and bushing. 3.
Trailing arm to body bolt. 4. Trailing arm from body.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for the application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener tightening specification and the
joint clamping force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct
tightening sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to
parts and systems.
1. Trailing arm-to-knuckle bolt, washer, and bushing. 2. Trailing arm to body and install bolt.
^ Tighten: Trailing arm to body 65 Nm (48 ft lb) plus 120° rotation.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Trailing Arm > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 9329
- Knuckle bolt to 69 Nm (51 ft lb).
3. Lower vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Specifications
Wheel Bearing: Specifications
This vehicle uses a sealed wheel bearing and lubricating grease is not required.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 9333
Wheel Bearing: Description and Operation
A non-serviceable unit hub and bearing is bolted to the knuckle. This hub and bearing is a sealed,
maintenance free unit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
Wheel Bearing: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures > Page 9336
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures > Page 9337
Wheel Bearing: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures > Page 9338
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Front Suspension
FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS AND/OR HUB
^ Tools Required: J 28733-A Front Hub Spindle Remover
- Or Equivalent
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Drive axle. 2. Brake caliper bolts, and support caliper. 3. Brake Rotor. 4. Hub and bearing
assembly. 5. Hub and bearing assembly from steering knuckle. 6. Hub and bearing.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Hub and bearing assembly to steering knuckle. 2. Hub and bearing assembly bolts.
^ Tighten hub and bearing assembly bolts to 95 Nm (70 ft lb).
3. Brake Rotor. 4. Brake caliper and bolts. Refer to Brakes and Traction Control. 5. New hub and
bearing into steering knuckle. 6. Drive axle. 7. Check front wheel alignment.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 9341
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Rear Suspension
REAR WHEEL BEARINGS AND/OR HUB
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle. 2. Wheel and tire assemblies. 3. Brake drum.
NOTICE: Do not hammer on brake drum damage to the assembly could result.
4. Rear ABS wheel speed sensor wire connector. 5. Remove hub and bearing assembly from axle.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Connect rear ABS wheel speed sensor wire connector. 2. Hub and Bearing assembly.
^ Tighten hub and bearing to axle bolts to 95 Nm (70 ft lb).
3. Brake drum. 4. Wheel and tire assembly. 5. Lower vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Drive Axles - Improved Axle Nut Availability
Axle Nut: Technical Service Bulletins Drive Axles - Improved Axle Nut Availability
File In Section: 04 - Driveline Axle
Bulletin No.: 03-04-18-001
Date: February, 2003
INFORMATION
Subject: Availability of New Front Drive Axle Nut
Models: 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero 1999-2003 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin is to inform dealers that a new and improved front drive axle nut has been released for
service of the above listed vehicles.
Use the new nut, P/N 10289657, whenever the front drive axle nut is removed. This new nut is a
torque prevailing nut and is silver in color. The old nut is black in color and has a sheet metal cage
around the nut (shown below). Using the new nut will provide a more consistent clamp load on the
wheel bearing and should help prolong the bearing life.
Notice:
Use the correct tightening specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts
and systems.
Torque
Tighten the new nut to 235 N.m (173 lb ft). The old nut torque was 385 N.m (284 lb ft).
Important:
Some front wheel hub kits may have the old style nut included in the kit. Discard the old nut and
use the new nut, P/N 10289657.
New Style Nut
The nut shown is a torque prevailing nut and is silver colored.
Old Style Nut
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Drive Axles - Improved Axle Nut Availability > Page 9347
The old style nut shown is black and has a sheet metal cage around the nut.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Drive Axles - Improved Axle Nut Availability > Page 9348
Axle Nut: Technical Service Bulletins Steering - Various Revised Tightening Specifications
CHEVROLET 73-32-03A
Issued: 05/01/97
SMU - SECTIONS 3B/3C/4D
REVISION: 04/11/97
THIS BULLETIN IS BEING REVISED TO UPDATE THE DRIVE AXLE NUT TIGHTENING
SPECIFICATIONS FOR THE N CAR. PLEASE DISCARD CORPORATE BULLETIN NUMBER
73-32-03 (SECTION 3 - STEERING/SUSPENSION).
SUBJECT: SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE - SECTIONS 3B/3C/4D - REVISED TIGHTENING
SPECIFICATIONS
MODELS: 1997 CHEVROLET CAVALIER, MALIBU 1997 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS 1997
PONTIAC SUNFIRE
THIS BULLETIN IS BEING ISSUED TO REVISE THE TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS IN
SECTIONS 3B, 3C AND 4D OF THE SERVICE MANUAL AS FOLLOWS:
J CAR
SECTIONS 3B-8, 3B-9, 3C-5 AND 3C-13:
THE CORRECT TIGHTENING SPECIFICATION IS AS FOLLOWS:
- TIE ROD END TO KNUCKLE NUT 20 N.M (15 LB FT) PLUS 90 DEGREE ROTATION.
N CAR
SECTIONS 3C-6 AND 3C-16:
THE CORRECT TIGHTENING SPECIFICATION IS AS FOLLOWS:
- TIE ROD END TO KNUCKLE NUT 20 N.M (15 LB FT) PLUS 180 DEGREE ROTATION.
SECTION 3B-12:
THE CORRECT TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS ARE AS FOLLOWS:
- STEERING COLUMN LOWER PINCH BOLT 22 N.M (16 LB FT)
- STEERING COLUMN UPPER PINCH BOLT 22 N.M (16 LB FT)
SECTIONS 3C-16, 4D-4 AND 4D-5:
THE CORRECT TIGHTENING SPECIFICATION IS AS FOLLOWS:
- FRONT DRIVE AXLE NUT 385 N.M (284 LB FT) +/- 5 N.M (44 LB IN). REPLACE THE DRIVE
AXLE NUT WITH A NEW ONE AFTER EVERY REMOVAL. NEVER RE-USE THE DRIVE AXLE
NUT.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Page 9349
Axle Nut: Specifications
Service Manual Update #73-32-03A
Drive Axle Nut (New)
............................................................................................................................................... 385 Nm
(284 ft lb) +/- 5 Nm (44 in lb)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Vehicle Lifting > Component Information >
Service and Repair
Vehicle Lifting: Service and Repair
GENERAL VEHICLE LIFTING AND JACKING
CAUTION: To help avoid personal injury when a vehicle is on a hoist, provide additional support for
the vehicle at the opposite end from which components are being removed. The additional support
will reduce the possibility of the vehicle falling off the hoist. When removing major components from
the vehicle while the vehicle is on a hoist, the vehicle frame should be chained to the hoist pads at
the same end as the removed components to prevent tip-off. Failure to follow these precautionary
measures could result in vehicle damage, serious personal injury, or death.
CAUTION: To help avoid personal injury, always use jackstands when working on or under any
vehicle that is supported only by a jack.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Spare Tire > Component
Information > Service and Repair
Spare Tire: Service and Repair
All vehicles will be equipped with a high pressure compact spare. The compact spare uses a
narrow 4-inch wide rim, although the wheel diameter is usually one inch larger than the road
wheels.
The compact spare wheel should not be used with standard tires, snow tires, wheel covers or trim
rings. If such use is attempted, damage to these items or other parts of the vehicle may occur. The
compact spare should be used only on vehicles which offered it as original equipment.
CAUTION: To avoid serious personal injury, do not stand over tire when inflating. Bead may break
when bead snaps over safety hump. Do not exceed 275 kPa (40 psi) pressure when inflating any
tire if beads are not seated. It 275 kPa (40 psi) pressure will not seat beads, deflate, lubricate the
beads and reinflate. Overinflation may cause the bead to break and cause serious personal injury.
Inflation pressure of the compact spare must be periodically checked and maintained at 415 kPa
(60 psi). It can be mounted and dismounted from its wheel using present tire changing equipment
and procedures. As with other tires, the beads should completely seat at 275 kPa (40 psi). The tire
may then be safely inflated to 415 kPa (60 psi).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation
(RFV)
Wheels: Customer Interest Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV)
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-03-10-006F
Date: May 04, 2010
Subject: Information on Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2009
and Prior Saab 9-7X 2000-2005 Saturn L Series 2003-2007 Saturn ION
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to considerably expand the available information on
Radial Force Variation (RFV) and should be reviewed in whole. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 00-03-10-006E (Section 03 - Suspension).
Important
- Before measuring tires on equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700, the vehicle MUST be driven
a minimum of 16 km (10 mi) to ensure removal of any flat-spotting. Refer to Corporate Bulletin
Number 03-03-10-007E - Tire/Wheel Characteristics of GM Original Equipment Tires.
- Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 MUST be calibrated prior to measuring tire/wheel
assemblies for each vehicle.
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide guidance to GM dealers when using tire force variation
measurement equipment, such as the Hunter GSP9700. This type of equipment can be a valuable
tool in diagnosing vehicle ride concerns. The most common ride concern involving tire radial force
variation is highway speed shake on smooth roads.
Tire related smooth road highway speed shake can be caused by three conditions: imbalance, out
of round and tire force variation. These three conditions are not necessarily related. All three
conditions must be addressed.
Imbalance is normally addressed first, because it is the simpler of the three to correct. Off-vehicle,
two plane dynamic wheel balancers are readily available and can accurately correct any
imbalance. Balancer calibration and maintenance, proper attachment of the wheel to the balancer,
and proper balance weights, are all factors required for a quality balance. However, a perfectly
balanced tire/wheel assembly can still be "oval shaped" and cause a vibration.
Before balancing, perform the following procedures.
Tire and Wheel Diagnosis
1. Set the tire pressure to the placard values. 2. With the vehicle raised, ensure the wheels are
centered on the hub by loosening all wheel nuts and hand-tightening all nuts first by hand while
shaking the wheel, then torque to specifications using a torque wrench, NOT a torque stick.
3. Visually inspect the tires and the wheels. Inspect for evidence of the following conditions and
correct as necessary:
- Missing balance weights
- Bent rim flange
- Irregular tire wear
- Incomplete bead seating
- Tire irregularities (including pressure settings)
- Mud/ice build-up in wheel
- Stones in the tire tread
- Remove any aftermarket wheels and/or tires and restore vehicle to original condition prior to
diagnosing a smooth road shake condition.
4. Road test the vehicle using the Electronic Vibration Analyzer (EVA) essential tool. Drive for a
sufficient distance on a known, smooth road
surface to duplicate the condition. Determine if the vehicle is sensitive to brake apply. If the brakes
are applied lightly and the pulsation felt in the steering wheel increases, refer to the Brakes section
of the service manual that deals with brake-induced pulsation. If you can start to hear the vibration
as a low boom noise (in addition to feeling it), but cannot see it, the vehicle likely has a first order
(one pulse per propshaft revolution) driveline vibration. Driveline first order vibrations are high
enough in frequency that most humans can start to hear them at highway speeds, but are too high
to be able to be easily seen. These issues can be caused by driveline imbalance or misalignment.
If the vehicle exhibits this low boom and the booming pulses in-and-out on a regular basis (like a
throbbing), chances are good that the vehicle could have driveline vibration. This type
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation
(RFV) > Page 9366
of vibration is normally felt more in the "seat of the pants" than the steering wheel.
5. Next, record the Hertz (Hz) reading as displayed by the EVA onto the tire data worksheet found
at the end of this bulletin. This should be done
after a tire break-in period of at least 16 km (10 mi) at 72 km/h (45 mph) or greater, in order to
eliminate any possible tire flat-spotting. This reading confirms what the vehicle vibration frequency
is prior to vehicle service and documents the amount of improvement occurring as the result of the
various steps taken to repair. Completing the Steering Wheel Shake Worksheet below is required.
A copy of the completed worksheet must be saved with the R.O. and a copy included with any
parts returned to the Warranty Parts Center for analysis. A reading of 35 to 50 Hz typically
indicates a first order propshaft vibration. If this is the situation, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
08-07-30-044D. Generally, a reading between 10 and 20 Hz indicates a tire/wheel vibration and if
this is the reading obtained, continue using this bulletin. If the tire 1st order vibration goes away
and stays away during this evaluation, the cause is likely tire flat-spotting. Tire flat-spotting vibration
may come and go at any speed over 72 km/h (45 mph) during the first 10 minutes of operation, if
vibration continues after 10 minutes of driving at speeds greater than 72 km/h (45 mph), tire
flat-spotting can be ruled out as the cause for vibration.
6. If flat-spotting is the cause, provide the explanation that this has occurred due to the vehicle
being parked for long periods of time and that the
nature of the tire is to take a set. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-03-10-007E: Information
on Tire/Wheel Characteristics (Vibration, Balance, Shake, Flat Spotting) of GM Original Equipment
Tires.
7. If the road test indicates a shake/vibration exists, check the imbalance of each tire/wheel
assembly on a known, calibrated, off-car dynamic
balancer.Make sure the mounting surface of the wheel and the surface of the balancer are
absolutely clean and free of debris. Be sure to chose the proper cone/collet for the wheel, and
always use the pilot bore for centering. Never center the wheel using the hub-cap bore since it is
not a precision machined surface. If any assembly calls for more than 1/4 ounce on either rim
flange, remove all balance weights and rebalance to as close to zero as possible. If you can see
the vibration (along with feeling it) in the steering wheel (driving straight without your hands on the
wheel), it is very likely to be a tire/wheel first order (one pulse per revolution) disturbance. First
order disturbances can be caused by imbalance as well as non-uniformities in tires, wheels or
hubs. This first order frequency is too low for a human to hear, but if the amplitude is high enough,
it can be seen.
If a vibration or shake still exists after balancing, any out of round conditions, of the wheel, and
force variation conditions of the tire, must be addressed. Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700
can address both (it is also a wheel balancer).
Tire radial force vibration (RFV) can be defined as the amount of stiffness variation the tire will
produce in one revolution under a constant load. Radial force variation is what the vehicle feels
because the load (weight) of the vehicle is always on the tires. Although free runout of tires (not
under load) is not always a good indicator of a smooth ride, it is critical that total tire/wheel
assembly runout be within specification.
Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 loads the tire, similar to on the vehicle, and measures
radial force variation of the tire/wheel assembly. Note that the wheel is affecting the tire's RFV
measurement at this point. To isolate the wheel, its runout must be measured. This can be easily
done on the Hunter, without the need to set up dial indicators. If the wheel meets the runout
specification, the tire's RFV can then be addressed.
After measuring the tire/wheel assembly under load, and the wheel alone, the machine then
calculates (predicts) the radial force variation of the tire. However, because this is a prediction that
can include mounting inaccuracies, and the load wheel is much smaller in diameter than used in
tire production, this type of service equipment should NOT be used to audit new tires. Rather, it
should be used as a service diagnostic tool to minimize radial force variation of the tire/wheel
assembly.
Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 does an excellent job of measuring wheel runout, and of
finding the low point of the wheel (for runout) and the high point of the tire (for radial force
variation). This allows the tire to be matched mounted to the wheel for lowest tire/wheel assembly
force variation.
The machine will simplify this process into easy steps. The following assembly radial force variation
numbers should be used as a guide:
When measuring RFV and match mounting tires perform the following steps.
Measuring Wheel Runout and Assembly Radial Force Variation
Important The completed worksheet at the end of this bulletin must be attached to the hard copy of
the repair order.
- Measure radial force variation and radial runout.
- If a road force/balancing machine is used, record the radial force variation (RFV) on the
worksheet at the end of this bulletin. It may be of benefit to have the lowest RFV assembly to the
front left corner. If the machine is not available and the EVA data suggests there is an issue, swap
the tire and wheel assemblies from the front to the back. Re-check on the EVA and if the problem
still exists, test another vehicle to find tires that do not exhibit the same frequency and swap those
tires onto the subject vehicle.
- If a runout/balancing machine is used, record the radial runout of the tire/wheel assemblies on the
worksheet at the end of this bulletin. If one or more of the tire/wheel assemblies are more than.040
in (1.02 mm), match mount the tire to the wheel to get below.040 in (1.02 mm). For sensitive
customers, readings of 0.030 inch (0.76 mm) or less are preferable, it may also be of benefit to
have the lowest runout assembly to the front left corner. If the machine is not available and the
EVA data suggests there is an issue, swap the tire and wheel assemblies from the front to the
back. Re-check on the EVA and if the problem still exists, test another vehicle to find tires that do
not exhibit the same frequency and swap those tires
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation
(RFV) > Page 9367
onto the subject vehicle.
- After match mounting, the tire/wheel assembly must be rebalanced.
If match mounting tires to in-spec wheels produces assembly values higher than these, tire
replacement may be necessary. Replacing tires at lower values will probably mean good tires are
being condemned. Because tires can sometimes become temporarily flat-spotted, which will affect
force variation, it is important that the vehicle be driven at least 16 km (10 mi) prior to measuring.
Tire pressure must also be adjusted to the usage pressure on the vehicle's tire placard prior to
measuring.
Most GM vehicles will tolerate radial force variation up to these levels. However, some vehicles are
more sensitive, and may require lower levels. Also, there are other tire parameters that equipment
such as the Hunter GSP9700 cannot measure that may be a factor. In such cases, TAC should be
contacted for further instructions.
Important
- When mounting a GM wheel to a wheel balancer/force variation machine, always use the wheel's
center pilot hole. This is the primary centering mechanism on all GM wheels; the bolt holes are
secondary. Usually a back cone method to the machine should be used. For added accuracy and
repeatability, a flange plate should be used to clamp the wheel onto the cone and machine. This
system is offered by all balancer manufacturers in GM's dealer program.
- Any type of service equipment that removes tread rubber by grinding, buffing or truing is NOT
recommended, and may void the tire warranty. However, tires may have been ground by the tire
company as part of their tire manufacturing process. This is a legitimate procedure.
Steering Wheel Shake Worksheet
When diagnosing vibration concerns, use the following worksheet in conjunction with the
appropriate Vibration Analysis-Road testing procedure in the Vibration Correction sub-section in SI.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation
(RFV) > Page 9368
Refer to the appropriate section of SI for specifications and repair procedures that are related to the
vibration concern.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 05-03-10-003F > Apr > 10 > Tires/Wheels - Low Tire/Leaking Cast
Aluminum Wheels
Wheels: Customer Interest Tires/Wheels - Low Tire/Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 05-03-10-003F
Date: April 27, 2010
Subject: Low Tire Pressure, Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels (Repair with Adhesive Sealant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X with Cast Aluminum Wheels
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the model years and the bulletin reference
information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-03-10-003E (Section 03 - Suspension).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a low tire pressure condition.
Diagnosis of the low tire pressure condition indicates an air leak through the cast aluminum wheel.
Cause
Porosity in the cast aluminum wheel may be the cause.
Notice
This bulletin specifically addresses issues related to the wheel casting that may result in an air
leak. For issues related to corrosion of the wheel in service, please refer to Corporate Bulletin
Number 08-03-10-006C - Tire Slowly Goes Flat, Tire Air Loss, Low Tire Pressure Warning Light
Illuminated, Aluminum Wheel Bead Seat Corrosion (Clean and Resurface Wheel Bead Seat).
Correction
1. Remove the tire and wheel assembly from the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate service
procedure in SI. 2. Locate the leaking area by inflating the tire to 276 kPa (40 psi) and dipping the
tire/wheel assembly in a water bath, or use a spray bottle with soap
and water to locate the specific leak location.
Important
- If the porosity leak is located in the bead area of the aluminum rim (where the tire meets the rim),
the wheel should be replaced.
- If two or more leaks are located on one wheel, the wheel should be replaced.
3. If air bubbles are observed, mark the location.
- If the leak location is on the tire/rubber area, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 04-03-10-001F Tire Puncture Repair Procedures for All Cars and Light Duty Trucks.
- If the leak is located on the aluminum wheel area, continue with the next step.
4. Inscribe a mark on the tire at the valve stem in order to indicate the orientation of the tire to the
wheel. 5. Dismount the tire from the wheel. Refer to Tire Mounting and Dismounting. 6. Remove
the tire pressure sensor. Refer to Tire Pressure Sensor removal procedure in SI. 7. Scuff the
INSIDE rim surface at the leak area with #80 grit paper and clean the area with general purpose
cleaner, such as 3M(R) General Purpose
Adhesive Cleaner, P/N 08984, or equivalent.
8. Apply a 3 mm (0.12 in) thick layer of Silicone - Adhesive/Sealant, P/N 12378478 (in Canada, use
88900041), or equivalent, to the leak area. 9. Allow for the adhesive/sealant to dry.
Notice Caution must be used when mounting the tire so as not to damage the sealer. Damaging
the repair area may result in an air leak.
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Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 05-03-10-003F > Apr > 10 > Tires/Wheels - Low Tire/Leaking Cast
Aluminum Wheels > Page 9373
10. Align the inscribed mark on the tire with the valve stem on the wheel. 11. Reinstall the Tire
Pressure Sensor. Refer to Tire Pressure Sensor installation procedure in SI. 12. Mount the tire on
the wheel. Refer to Tire Mounting and Dismounting. 13. Pressurize the tire to 276 kPa (40 psi) and
inspect for leaks. 14. Adjust tire pressure to meet the placard specification. 15. Balance the
tire/wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Assembly Balancing - Off-Vehicle. 16. Install the tire
and wheel assembly onto the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate service procedure in SI.
Parts Information
Warranty Information (excluding Saab U.S. Models)
Important The Silicone - Adhesive/Sealant comes in a case quantity of six. ONLY charge warranty
one tube of adhesive/sealant per wheel repair.
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
One leak repair per wheel.
Warranty Information (Saab U.S. Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table above.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome
Wheel Staining/Pitting/Corrosion
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Chrome Wheel Staining/Pitting/Corrosion
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-03-10-002F
Date: April 21, 2011
Subject: Chemical Staining, Pitting, Corrosion and/or Spotted Appearance of Chromed Aluminum
Wheels
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update model years, suggest additional restorative
products and add additional corrosion information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
00-03-10-002E (Section 03 - Suspension). Important You may give a copy of this bulletin to the
customer.
What is Chemical Staining of Chrome Wheels? Figure 1
Chemical staining in most cases results from acid based cleaners (refer to Figure 1 for an
example). These stains are frequently milky, black, or greenish in appearance. They result from
using cleaning solutions that contain acids on chrome wheels. Soap and water is usually sufficient
to clean wheels.
If the customer insists on using a wheel cleaner they should only use one that specifically states
that it is safe for chromed wheels and does not contain anything in the following list. (Dealers
should also survey any products they use during prep or normal cleaning of stock units for these
chemicals.)
- Ammonium Bifluoride (fluoride source for dissolution of chrome)
- Hydrofluoric Acid (directly dissolves chrome)
- Hydrochloric Acid (directly dissolves chrome)
- Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonic Acid
- Sulfamic Acid
- Phosphoric Acid
- Hydroxyacetic Acid
Notice
Many wheel cleaner instructions advise to take care to avoid contact with painted surfaces. Most
customers think of painted surfaces as the fenders, quarter panels and other exterior sheet metal.
Many vehicles have painted brake calipers. Acidic wheel cleaners may craze, crack, or discolor the
paint on the brake calipers. Damage from wheel cleaners is not covered under the vehicle new car
warranty. Soap and water applied with a soft brush is usually all that is required to clean the
calipers.
Whenever any wheel cleaner is used, it must be THOROUGHLY rinsed off of the wheel with clean,
clear water. Special care must be taken to rinse under the hub cap, balance weights, wheel nuts,
lug nut caps, between the wheel cladding and off the back side of the wheel. Wheels returned to
the Warranty Parts Center (WPC) that exhibit damage from wheel cleaners most often have the
damage around and under the wheel weight where the cleaner was incompletely flushed away.
Notice
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Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome
Wheel Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 9379
Do not use cleaning solutions that contain hydrofluoric, oxalic and most other acids on chrome
wheels (or any wheels).
If the customer is unsure of the chemical make-up of a particular wheel cleaner, it should be
avoided.
For wheels showing signs of milky staining from acidic cleaners, refer to Customer Assistance and
Instructions below.
Warranty of Stained Chrome Wheels
Stained wheels are not warrantable. Most acid based cleaners will permanently stain chrome
wheels. Follow-up with dealers has confirmed that such cleaners were used on wheels that were
returned to the Warranty Parts Center (WPC). Any stained wheels received by the WPC will be
charged back to the dealership. To assist the customer, refer to Customer Assistance and
Instructions below.
Pitting or Spotted Appearance of Chrome Wheels Figure 2
A second type or staining or finish disturbance may result from road chemicals, such as calcium
chloride used for dust control of unpaved roads. The staining will look like small pitting (refer to
Figure 2). This staining will usually be on the leading edges of each wheel spoke, but may be
uniformly distributed. If a vehicle must be operated under such conditions, the chrome wheels
should be washed with mild soap and water and thoroughly rinsed as soon as conveniently
possible.
Important Road chemicals, such as calcium chloride used for dust control of unpaved roads, can
also stain chrome wheels. The staining will look like small pitting. This staining will usually be on
the leading edges of each wheel spoke. This is explained by the vehicle traveling in the forward
direction while being splashed by the road chemical. If a vehicle must be operated under such
conditions, the chrome wheels should be washed with mild soap and water and thoroughly rinsed
as soon as conveniently possible.
Warranty of Pitted or Spotted Chrome Wheels
Wheels returned with pitting or spotting as a result of road chemicals may be replaced one time.
Damage resulting from contact with these applied road chemicals is corrosive to the wheels finish
and may cause damage if the wheels are not kept clean.
Important Notify the customer that this is a one time replacement. Please stress to the customer
the vital importance of keeping the wheels clean if they are operating the vehicle in an area that
applies calcium chloride or other dust controlling chemicals! "GM of Canada" dealers require prior
approval by the District Manager - Customer Care and Service Process (DM-CCSP).
"Stardust" Corrosion of Chrome Wheels Figure 3
A third type of finish disturbance results from prolonged exposure to brake dust and resultant
penetration of brake dust through the chrome. As brakes are applied hot particles of brake material
are thrown off and tend to be forced through the leading edge of the wheel spoke windows by
airflow. These
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome
Wheel Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 9380
hot particles embed themselves in the chrome layer and create a small pit. If the material is allowed
to sit on the wheel while it is exposed to moisture or salt, it will corrode the wheel beneath the
chrome leaving a pit or small blister in the chrome.
Heavy brake dust build-up should be removed from wheels by using GM Chrome Cleaner and
Polish, P/N 1050173 (in Canada use 10953013). For moderate cleaning, light brake dust build-up
or water spots use GM Swirl Remover Polish, P/N 12377965 (in Canada, use Meguiars
Plast-X(TM) Clear Plastic Cleaner and Polish #G12310C**). After cleaning, the wheel should be
waxed using GM Cleaner Wax, P/N 12377966 (in Canada, use Meguiars Cleaner Wax
#M0616C**), which will help protect the wheel from brake dust and reduce adhesion of any brake
dust that gets on the wheel surface. For general maintenance cleaning, PEEK Metal Polish† may
be used. It will clean and shine the chrome and leave behind a wax coating that may help protect
the finish.
Warranty of Stardust Corroded Chrome Wheels
Wheels returned with pitting or spotting as a result of neglect and brake dust build-up may be
replaced one time.
Important Notify the customer that this is a one time replacement. Please stress to the customer
the vital importance of keeping the wheels clean and free of prolonged exposure to brake dust
build-up. "GM of Canada" dealers require prior approval by the District Manager - Customer Care
and Service Process (DM-CCSP).
Customer Assistance and Instructions
GM has looked for ways customers may improve the appearance of wheels damaged by acidic
cleaners. The following product and procedure has been found to dramatically improve the
appearance of stained wheels. For wheels that have milky stains caused by acidic cleaners try the
following:
Notice
THE 3M CHROME AND METAL POLISH REQUIRED FOR THIS PROCEDURE IS AN
EXTREMELY AGGRESSIVE POLISH/CLEANER. THE WHEELS MUST BE CLEANED BEFORE
APPLICATION TO AVOID SCRATCHING THE WHEEL SURFACE. THIS PRODUCT WILL
REDUCE THE THICKNESS OF THE CHROME PLATING ON THE WHEEL AND IF USED
INCORRECTLY OR EXCESSIVELY MAY REMOVE THE CHROME PLATING ALL TOGETHER,
EXPOSING A LESS BRIGHT AND BRASSY COLORED SUB-LAYER. FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS
EXACTLY.
1. Wash the wheels with vigorously with soap and water. This step will clean and may reduce
wheel staining. Flood all areas of the wheel with water
to rinse.
2. Dry the wheels completely.
Notice Begin with a small section of the wheel and with light pressure buff off polish and examine
results. ONLY apply and rub with sufficient force and time to remove enough staining that you are
satisfied with the results. Some wheels may be stained to the extent that you may only achieve a
50% improvement while others may be able to be restored to the original lustre. IN ALL CASES,
only apply until the results are satisfactory.
3. Apply 3M Chrome and Metal Polish #39527* with a clean terry cloth towel. As you apply the
polish, the staining will be diminished. 4. When dry, buff off the polish with a clean portion of the
towel. 5. Repeat application of the 3M Chrome and Metal Polish until satisfied with the results. If
continued applications fail to improve the appearance
further discontinue use.
This procedure will improve the appearance of the wheels and may, with repeated applications,
restore the finish dramatically. For wheels that exhibit spotting from road chemicals the above
procedure may marginally improve the condition but will not restore the finish or remove the pitting.
In this type of staining the wheel finish has actually been removed in spots and no manner of
cleaning will restore the finish.
†*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers
of such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or
assume any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may
be available from other sources.
Parts Information
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome
Wheel Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 9381
*This product is currently available from 3M. To obtain information for your local retail location
please call 3M at 1-888-364-3577.
**This product is currently available from Meguiars (Canada). To obtain information for your local
retail location please call Meguiars at 1-800-347-5700 or at www.meguiarscanada.com.
^ This product is currently available from Tri-Peek International. To obtain information for your local
retail location please call Tri-Peek at
1-877-615-4272 or at www.tripeek.com.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 99-08-51-007E > Mar > 11 > Wheels/Tires Refinishing Aluminum Wheels
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels/Tires - Refinishing Aluminum Wheels
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 99-08-51-007E
Date: March 17, 2011
Subject: Refinishing Aluminum Wheels
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add additional model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 99-08-51-007D (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
This bulletin updates General Motor's position on refinishing aluminum wheels. GM does not
endorse any repairs that involve welding, bending, straightening or re-machining. Only cosmetic
refinishing of the wheel's coatings, using recommended procedures, is allowed.
Evaluating Damage
In evaluating damage, it is the GM Dealer's responsibility to inspect the wheel for corrosion,
scrapes, gouges, etc. The Dealer must insure that such damage is not deeper than what can be
sanded or polished off. The wheel must be inspected for cracks. If cracks are found, discard the
wheel. Any wheels with bent rim flanges must not be repaired or refinished. Wheels that have been
refinished by an outside company must be returned to the same vehicle. The Dealer must record
the wheel ID stamp or the cast date on the wheel in order to assure this requirement. Refer to
Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company later in this bulletin.
Aluminum Wheel Refinishing Recommendations
- Chrome-plated aluminum wheels Re-plating these wheels is not recommended.
- Polished aluminum wheels These wheels have a polyester or acrylic clearcoat on them. If the
clearcoat is damaged, refinishing is possible. However, the required refinishing process cannot be
performed in the dealer environment. Refer to Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company later
in this bulletin.
- Painted aluminum wheels These wheels are painted using a primer, color coat, and clearcoat
procedure. If the paint is damaged, refinishing is possible. As with polished wheels, all original
coatings must be removed first. Media blasting is recommended. Refer to GM Aluminum
Refinishing Bulletin #53-17-03A for the re-painting of this type of wheel.
- Bright, machined aluminum wheels These wheels have a polyester or acrylic clearcoat on them.
In some cases, the recessed "pocket" areas of the wheel may be painted. Surface refinishing is
possible. The wheel must be totally stripped by media blasting or other suitable means. The wheel
should be resurfaced by using a sanding process rather than a machining process. This allows the
least amount of material to be removed.
Important Do not use any re-machining process that removes aluminum. This could affect the
dimensions and function of the wheel.
Painting is an option to re-clearcoating polished and bright machined aluminum wheels. Paint will
better mask any surface imperfections and is somewhat more durable than clearcoat alone. GM
recommends using Corsican SILVER WAEQ9283 for a fine "aluminum-like" look or Sparkle
SILVER WA9967 for a very bright look. As an option, the body color may also be used. When using
any of the painting options, it is recommended that all four wheels be refinished in order to maintain
color uniformity. Refer to GM Aluminum Refinishing Bulletin #53-17-03A for specific procedures
and product recommendations.
Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company
Important Some outside companies are offering wheel refinishing services. Such refinished wheels
will be permanently marked by the refinisher and are warranted by the refinisher. Any process that
re-machines or otherwise re-manufactures the wheel should not be used.
A refinisher's responsibility includes inspecting for cracks using the Zyglo system or the equivalent.
Any cracked wheels must not be refinished. No welding, hammering or reforming of any kind is
allowed. The wheel ID must be recorded and follow the wheel throughout the process in order to
assure that the same wheel is returned. A plastic media blast may be used for clean up of the
wheel. Hand and/or lathe sanding of the machined surface and the wheel window is allowed.
Material removal, though, must be kept to a minimum. Re-machining of the wheel is not allowed.
Paint and/or clear coat must not be present on the following surfaces: the nut chamfers, the wheel
mounting surfaces and the wheel pilot hole. The refinisher must permanently ID stamp the wheel
and warrant the painted/clearcoated surfaces for a minimum of one year or the remainder of the
new vehicle warranty, whichever is
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Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 99-08-51-007E > Mar > 11 > Wheels/Tires Refinishing Aluminum Wheels > Page 9386
longer.
Important Whenever a wheel is refinished, the mounting surface and the wheel nut contact
surfaces must not be painted or clearcoated. Coating these surfaces could affect the wheel nut
torque.
When re-mounting a tire on an aluminum wheel, coated balance weights must be used in order to
reduce the chance of future cosmetic damage.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 06-03-10-010A > Jun > 10 > Wheels - Changing
Procedures/Precautions
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Changing Procedures/Precautions
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 06-03-10-010A
Date: June 09, 2010
Subject: Information on Proper Wheel Changing Procedures and Cautions
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2010 and Prior HUMMER Models 2005-2009 Saab
9-7X 2005-2009 Saturn Vehicles
Attention:
Complete wheel changing instructions for each vehicle line can be found under Tire and Wheel
Removal and Installation in Service Information (SI). This bulletin is intended to quickly review and
reinforce simple but vital procedures to reduce the possibility of achieving low torque during wheel
installation. Always refer to SI for wheel lug nut torque specifications and complete jacking
instructions for safe wheel changing.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to include the 2011 model year and update the available
special tool list. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-03-10-010 (Section 03 Suspension).
Frequency of Wheel Changes - Marketplace Driven
Just a few years ago, the increasing longevity of tires along with greater resistance to punctures
had greatly reduced the number of times wheels were removed to basically required tire rotation
intervals. Today with the booming business in accessory wheels/special application tires (such as
winter tires), consumers are having tire/wheel assemblies removed - replaced - or installed more
than ever. With this increased activity, it opens up more of a chance for error on the part of the
technician. This bulletin will review a few of the common concerns and mistakes to make yourself
aware of.
Proper Servicing Starts With the Right Tools
The following tools have been made available to assist in proper wheel and tire removal and
installation.
- J 41013 Rotor Resurfacing Kit (or equivalent)
- J 42450-A Wheel Hub Resurfacing Kit (or equivalent)
Corroded Surfaces
One area of concern is corrosion on the mating surfaces of the wheel to the hub on the vehicle.
Excessive corrosion, dirt, rust or debris built up on these surfaces can mimic a properly tightened
wheel in the service stall. Once the vehicle is driven, the debris may loosen, grind up or be washed
away from water splash. This action may result in clearance at the mating surface of the wheel and
an under-torqued condition.
Caution
Before installing a wheel, remove any buildup on the wheel mounting surface and brake drum or
brake disc mounting surface. Installing wheels with poor metal-to-metal contact at the mounting
surfaces can cause wheel nuts to loosen. This may cause a wheel to come off when the vehicle is
moving, possibly resulting in a loss of control or personal injury.
Whenever you remove the tire/wheel assemblies, you must inspect the mating surfaces. If
corrosion is found, you should remove the debris with a die grinder equipped with a fine sanding
pad, wire brush or cleaning disc. Just remove enough material to assure a clean, smooth mating
surface.
The J 41013 (or equivalent) can be used to clean the following surfaces:
- The hub mounting surface
- The brake rotor mounting surface
- The wheel mounting surface
Use the J 42450-A (or equivalent) to clean around the base of the studs and the hub.
Lubricants, Grease and Fluids
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Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 06-03-10-010A > Jun > 10 > Wheels - Changing
Procedures/Precautions > Page 9391
Some customers may use penetrating oils, grease or other lubricants on wheel studs to aid in
removal or installation. Always use a suitable cleaner/solvent to remove these lubricants prior to
installing the wheel and tire assemblies. Lubricants left on the wheel studs may cause improper
readings of wheel nut torque. Always install wheels to clean, dry wheel studs ONLY.
Notice
Lubricants left on the wheel studs or vertical mounting surfaces between the wheel and the rotor or
drum may cause the wheel to work itself loose after the vehicle is driven. Always install wheels to
clean, dry wheel studs and surfaces ONLY. Beginning with 2011 model year vehicles, put a light
coating of grease, GM P/N 1051344 (in Canada, P/N 9930370), on the inner surface of the wheel
pilot hole to prevent wheel seizure to the axle or bearing hub.
Wheel Stud and Lug Nut Damage
Always inspect the wheel studs and lug nuts for signs of damage from crossthreading or abuse.
You should never have to force wheel nuts down the stud. Lug nuts that are damaged may not
retain properly, yet give the impression of fully tightening. Always inspect and replace any
component suspected of damage.
Tip
Always start wheel nuts by hand! Be certain that all wheel nut threads have been engaged
BEFORE tightening the nut.
Important If the vehicle has directional tread tires, verify the directional arrow on the outboard side
of the tire is pointing in the direction of forward rotation.
Wheel Nut Tightening and Torque
Improper wheel nut tightening can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. In order to avoid
additional brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts to the proper torque specification as shown
for each vehicle in SI. Always observe the proper wheel nut tightening sequence as shown below in
order to avoid trapping the wheel on the wheel stud threads or clamping the wheel slightly off
center resulting in vibration.
The Most Important Service You Provide
While the above information is well known, and wheel removal so common, technicians run the risk
of becoming complacent on this very important
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Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 06-03-10-010A > Jun > 10 > Wheels - Changing
Procedures/Precautions > Page 9392
service operation. A simple distraction or time constraint that rushes the job may result in personal
injury if the greatest of care is not exercised. Make it a habit to double check your work and to
always side with caution when installing wheels.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire
Radial Force Variation (RFV)
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV)
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-03-10-006F
Date: May 04, 2010
Subject: Information on Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2009
and Prior Saab 9-7X 2000-2005 Saturn L Series 2003-2007 Saturn ION
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to considerably expand the available information on
Radial Force Variation (RFV) and should be reviewed in whole. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 00-03-10-006E (Section 03 - Suspension).
Important
- Before measuring tires on equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700, the vehicle MUST be driven
a minimum of 16 km (10 mi) to ensure removal of any flat-spotting. Refer to Corporate Bulletin
Number 03-03-10-007E - Tire/Wheel Characteristics of GM Original Equipment Tires.
- Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 MUST be calibrated prior to measuring tire/wheel
assemblies for each vehicle.
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide guidance to GM dealers when using tire force variation
measurement equipment, such as the Hunter GSP9700. This type of equipment can be a valuable
tool in diagnosing vehicle ride concerns. The most common ride concern involving tire radial force
variation is highway speed shake on smooth roads.
Tire related smooth road highway speed shake can be caused by three conditions: imbalance, out
of round and tire force variation. These three conditions are not necessarily related. All three
conditions must be addressed.
Imbalance is normally addressed first, because it is the simpler of the three to correct. Off-vehicle,
two plane dynamic wheel balancers are readily available and can accurately correct any
imbalance. Balancer calibration and maintenance, proper attachment of the wheel to the balancer,
and proper balance weights, are all factors required for a quality balance. However, a perfectly
balanced tire/wheel assembly can still be "oval shaped" and cause a vibration.
Before balancing, perform the following procedures.
Tire and Wheel Diagnosis
1. Set the tire pressure to the placard values. 2. With the vehicle raised, ensure the wheels are
centered on the hub by loosening all wheel nuts and hand-tightening all nuts first by hand while
shaking the wheel, then torque to specifications using a torque wrench, NOT a torque stick.
3. Visually inspect the tires and the wheels. Inspect for evidence of the following conditions and
correct as necessary:
- Missing balance weights
- Bent rim flange
- Irregular tire wear
- Incomplete bead seating
- Tire irregularities (including pressure settings)
- Mud/ice build-up in wheel
- Stones in the tire tread
- Remove any aftermarket wheels and/or tires and restore vehicle to original condition prior to
diagnosing a smooth road shake condition.
4. Road test the vehicle using the Electronic Vibration Analyzer (EVA) essential tool. Drive for a
sufficient distance on a known, smooth road
surface to duplicate the condition. Determine if the vehicle is sensitive to brake apply. If the brakes
are applied lightly and the pulsation felt in the steering wheel increases, refer to the Brakes section
of the service manual that deals with brake-induced pulsation. If you can start to hear the vibration
as a low boom noise (in addition to feeling it), but cannot see it, the vehicle likely has a first order
(one pulse per propshaft revolution) driveline vibration. Driveline first order vibrations are high
enough in frequency that most humans can start to hear them at highway speeds, but are too high
to be able to be easily seen. These issues can be caused by driveline imbalance or misalignment.
If the vehicle exhibits this low boom and the booming pulses in-and-out on a regular basis (like a
throbbing), chances are good that the vehicle could have driveline vibration. This type
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire
Radial Force Variation (RFV) > Page 9397
of vibration is normally felt more in the "seat of the pants" than the steering wheel.
5. Next, record the Hertz (Hz) reading as displayed by the EVA onto the tire data worksheet found
at the end of this bulletin. This should be done
after a tire break-in period of at least 16 km (10 mi) at 72 km/h (45 mph) or greater, in order to
eliminate any possible tire flat-spotting. This reading confirms what the vehicle vibration frequency
is prior to vehicle service and documents the amount of improvement occurring as the result of the
various steps taken to repair. Completing the Steering Wheel Shake Worksheet below is required.
A copy of the completed worksheet must be saved with the R.O. and a copy included with any
parts returned to the Warranty Parts Center for analysis. A reading of 35 to 50 Hz typically
indicates a first order propshaft vibration. If this is the situation, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
08-07-30-044D. Generally, a reading between 10 and 20 Hz indicates a tire/wheel vibration and if
this is the reading obtained, continue using this bulletin. If the tire 1st order vibration goes away
and stays away during this evaluation, the cause is likely tire flat-spotting. Tire flat-spotting vibration
may come and go at any speed over 72 km/h (45 mph) during the first 10 minutes of operation, if
vibration continues after 10 minutes of driving at speeds greater than 72 km/h (45 mph), tire
flat-spotting can be ruled out as the cause for vibration.
6. If flat-spotting is the cause, provide the explanation that this has occurred due to the vehicle
being parked for long periods of time and that the
nature of the tire is to take a set. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-03-10-007E: Information
on Tire/Wheel Characteristics (Vibration, Balance, Shake, Flat Spotting) of GM Original Equipment
Tires.
7. If the road test indicates a shake/vibration exists, check the imbalance of each tire/wheel
assembly on a known, calibrated, off-car dynamic
balancer.Make sure the mounting surface of the wheel and the surface of the balancer are
absolutely clean and free of debris. Be sure to chose the proper cone/collet for the wheel, and
always use the pilot bore for centering. Never center the wheel using the hub-cap bore since it is
not a precision machined surface. If any assembly calls for more than 1/4 ounce on either rim
flange, remove all balance weights and rebalance to as close to zero as possible. If you can see
the vibration (along with feeling it) in the steering wheel (driving straight without your hands on the
wheel), it is very likely to be a tire/wheel first order (one pulse per revolution) disturbance. First
order disturbances can be caused by imbalance as well as non-uniformities in tires, wheels or
hubs. This first order frequency is too low for a human to hear, but if the amplitude is high enough,
it can be seen.
If a vibration or shake still exists after balancing, any out of round conditions, of the wheel, and
force variation conditions of the tire, must be addressed. Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700
can address both (it is also a wheel balancer).
Tire radial force vibration (RFV) can be defined as the amount of stiffness variation the tire will
produce in one revolution under a constant load. Radial force variation is what the vehicle feels
because the load (weight) of the vehicle is always on the tires. Although free runout of tires (not
under load) is not always a good indicator of a smooth ride, it is critical that total tire/wheel
assembly runout be within specification.
Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 loads the tire, similar to on the vehicle, and measures
radial force variation of the tire/wheel assembly. Note that the wheel is affecting the tire's RFV
measurement at this point. To isolate the wheel, its runout must be measured. This can be easily
done on the Hunter, without the need to set up dial indicators. If the wheel meets the runout
specification, the tire's RFV can then be addressed.
After measuring the tire/wheel assembly under load, and the wheel alone, the machine then
calculates (predicts) the radial force variation of the tire. However, because this is a prediction that
can include mounting inaccuracies, and the load wheel is much smaller in diameter than used in
tire production, this type of service equipment should NOT be used to audit new tires. Rather, it
should be used as a service diagnostic tool to minimize radial force variation of the tire/wheel
assembly.
Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 does an excellent job of measuring wheel runout, and of
finding the low point of the wheel (for runout) and the high point of the tire (for radial force
variation). This allows the tire to be matched mounted to the wheel for lowest tire/wheel assembly
force variation.
The machine will simplify this process into easy steps. The following assembly radial force variation
numbers should be used as a guide:
When measuring RFV and match mounting tires perform the following steps.
Measuring Wheel Runout and Assembly Radial Force Variation
Important The completed worksheet at the end of this bulletin must be attached to the hard copy of
the repair order.
- Measure radial force variation and radial runout.
- If a road force/balancing machine is used, record the radial force variation (RFV) on the
worksheet at the end of this bulletin. It may be of benefit to have the lowest RFV assembly to the
front left corner. If the machine is not available and the EVA data suggests there is an issue, swap
the tire and wheel assemblies from the front to the back. Re-check on the EVA and if the problem
still exists, test another vehicle to find tires that do not exhibit the same frequency and swap those
tires onto the subject vehicle.
- If a runout/balancing machine is used, record the radial runout of the tire/wheel assemblies on the
worksheet at the end of this bulletin. If one or more of the tire/wheel assemblies are more than.040
in (1.02 mm), match mount the tire to the wheel to get below.040 in (1.02 mm). For sensitive
customers, readings of 0.030 inch (0.76 mm) or less are preferable, it may also be of benefit to
have the lowest runout assembly to the front left corner. If the machine is not available and the
EVA data suggests there is an issue, swap the tire and wheel assemblies from the front to the
back. Re-check on the EVA and if the problem still exists, test another vehicle to find tires that do
not exhibit the same frequency and swap those tires
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire
Radial Force Variation (RFV) > Page 9398
onto the subject vehicle.
- After match mounting, the tire/wheel assembly must be rebalanced.
If match mounting tires to in-spec wheels produces assembly values higher than these, tire
replacement may be necessary. Replacing tires at lower values will probably mean good tires are
being condemned. Because tires can sometimes become temporarily flat-spotted, which will affect
force variation, it is important that the vehicle be driven at least 16 km (10 mi) prior to measuring.
Tire pressure must also be adjusted to the usage pressure on the vehicle's tire placard prior to
measuring.
Most GM vehicles will tolerate radial force variation up to these levels. However, some vehicles are
more sensitive, and may require lower levels. Also, there are other tire parameters that equipment
such as the Hunter GSP9700 cannot measure that may be a factor. In such cases, TAC should be
contacted for further instructions.
Important
- When mounting a GM wheel to a wheel balancer/force variation machine, always use the wheel's
center pilot hole. This is the primary centering mechanism on all GM wheels; the bolt holes are
secondary. Usually a back cone method to the machine should be used. For added accuracy and
repeatability, a flange plate should be used to clamp the wheel onto the cone and machine. This
system is offered by all balancer manufacturers in GM's dealer program.
- Any type of service equipment that removes tread rubber by grinding, buffing or truing is NOT
recommended, and may void the tire warranty. However, tires may have been ground by the tire
company as part of their tire manufacturing process. This is a legitimate procedure.
Steering Wheel Shake Worksheet
When diagnosing vibration concerns, use the following worksheet in conjunction with the
appropriate Vibration Analysis-Road testing procedure in the Vibration Correction sub-section in SI.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire
Radial Force Variation (RFV) > Page 9399
Refer to the appropriate section of SI for specifications and repair procedures that are related to the
vibration concern.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 05-03-10-003F > Apr > 10 > Tires/Wheels - Low
Tire/Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Tires/Wheels - Low Tire/Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 05-03-10-003F
Date: April 27, 2010
Subject: Low Tire Pressure, Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels (Repair with Adhesive Sealant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X with Cast Aluminum Wheels
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the model years and the bulletin reference
information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-03-10-003E (Section 03 - Suspension).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a low tire pressure condition.
Diagnosis of the low tire pressure condition indicates an air leak through the cast aluminum wheel.
Cause
Porosity in the cast aluminum wheel may be the cause.
Notice
This bulletin specifically addresses issues related to the wheel casting that may result in an air
leak. For issues related to corrosion of the wheel in service, please refer to Corporate Bulletin
Number 08-03-10-006C - Tire Slowly Goes Flat, Tire Air Loss, Low Tire Pressure Warning Light
Illuminated, Aluminum Wheel Bead Seat Corrosion (Clean and Resurface Wheel Bead Seat).
Correction
1. Remove the tire and wheel assembly from the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate service
procedure in SI. 2. Locate the leaking area by inflating the tire to 276 kPa (40 psi) and dipping the
tire/wheel assembly in a water bath, or use a spray bottle with soap
and water to locate the specific leak location.
Important
- If the porosity leak is located in the bead area of the aluminum rim (where the tire meets the rim),
the wheel should be replaced.
- If two or more leaks are located on one wheel, the wheel should be replaced.
3. If air bubbles are observed, mark the location.
- If the leak location is on the tire/rubber area, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 04-03-10-001F Tire Puncture Repair Procedures for All Cars and Light Duty Trucks.
- If the leak is located on the aluminum wheel area, continue with the next step.
4. Inscribe a mark on the tire at the valve stem in order to indicate the orientation of the tire to the
wheel. 5. Dismount the tire from the wheel. Refer to Tire Mounting and Dismounting. 6. Remove
the tire pressure sensor. Refer to Tire Pressure Sensor removal procedure in SI. 7. Scuff the
INSIDE rim surface at the leak area with #80 grit paper and clean the area with general purpose
cleaner, such as 3M(R) General Purpose
Adhesive Cleaner, P/N 08984, or equivalent.
8. Apply a 3 mm (0.12 in) thick layer of Silicone - Adhesive/Sealant, P/N 12378478 (in Canada, use
88900041), or equivalent, to the leak area. 9. Allow for the adhesive/sealant to dry.
Notice Caution must be used when mounting the tire so as not to damage the sealer. Damaging
the repair area may result in an air leak.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 05-03-10-003F > Apr > 10 > Tires/Wheels - Low
Tire/Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels > Page 9404
10. Align the inscribed mark on the tire with the valve stem on the wheel. 11. Reinstall the Tire
Pressure Sensor. Refer to Tire Pressure Sensor installation procedure in SI. 12. Mount the tire on
the wheel. Refer to Tire Mounting and Dismounting. 13. Pressurize the tire to 276 kPa (40 psi) and
inspect for leaks. 14. Adjust tire pressure to meet the placard specification. 15. Balance the
tire/wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Assembly Balancing - Off-Vehicle. 16. Install the tire
and wheel assembly onto the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate service procedure in SI.
Parts Information
Warranty Information (excluding Saab U.S. Models)
Important The Silicone - Adhesive/Sealant comes in a case quantity of six. ONLY charge warranty
one tube of adhesive/sealant per wheel repair.
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
One leak repair per wheel.
Warranty Information (Saab U.S. Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table above.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 04-03-10-012B > Feb > 08 > Wheels - Chrome
Wheel Brake Dust Accumulation/Pitting
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Chrome Wheel Brake Dust Accumulation/Pitting
Bulletin No.: 04-03-10-012B
Date: February 01, 2008
INFORMATION
Subject: Pitting and Brake Dust on Chrome wheels
Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2008 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2005-2008 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
04-03-10-012A (Section 03 - Suspension).
Analysis of Returned Wheels
Chrome wheels returned under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty for pitting concerns have
recently been evaluated. This condition is usually most severe in the vent (or window) area of the
front wheels. This "pitting" may actually be brake dust that has been allowed to accumulate on the
wheel. The longer this accumulation builds up, the more difficult it is to remove.
Cleaning the Wheels
In all cases, the returned wheels could be cleaned to their original condition using GM Vehicle Care
Cleaner Wax, P/N 12377966 (in Canada, P/N 10952905). When using this product, you should
confine your treatment to the areas of the wheel that show evidence of the brake dust build-up.
This product is only for use on chromed steel or chromed aluminum wheels.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Wheel replacement for this condition is NOT applicable under the terms of the New Vehicle Limited
Warranty.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 99-03-10-102 > Jun > 99 > Warranty - OE
Chrome Plated Aluminum Wheel ID
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Warranty - OE Chrome Plated Aluminum Wheel ID
File In Section: 03 - Suspension
Bulletin No.: 99-03-10-102
Date: June, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Original Equipment Chrome Plated Aluminum Wheel Identification
Models: 1999 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
Chrome plated aluminum wheels have been returned to the Warranty Parts Center that are not the
original equipment (OE) components.
Original equipment chrome plated aluminum wheels can be identified by either a balance weight
clip retention groove (1) or a step (2) that is machined around both of the wheel's rim flanges. The
rim flanges (3) of painted original equipment aluminum wheels do not have a groove or a step.
Chrome plated aluminum wheels that do not have the wheel rim flange groove or step are
aftermarket chrome plated components and are NOT warrantable. Any aftermarket chrome wheels
received by the Warranty Parts Center will be charged back to the dealership.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 72-05-05 > Aug > 97 > Warranty - Guidelines for
Using E0420 Wheel Replace
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Warranty - Guidelines for Using E0420 Wheel Replace
File In Section: Warranty Administration
Bulletin No.: 72-05-05
Date: August, 1997
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Subject: Guidelines for Using EO42O Wheel Replace
Models: 1989-98 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide service personnel with guidelines for using the above
subject labor operation.
Effective with repair orders dated on or after September 1, 1997, dealers are to be guided by the
following:
^ Aluminum Wheels (including chrome plated) with Porosity - Wheels that exhibit porosity should
be repaired as described in the vehicle service manual. Wheels should not be replaced without
wholesale approval.
^ Aluminum Wheels (except chrome plated) with a "Finish Defect" - Wheels that exhibit a defect in
the finish, (i.e., discoloration or surface degradation) should be refinished as described in the
Corporate Service Bulletin Number 53-17-03A released in May, 1996.
^ Chrome Wheels - Wheels that are chromed and found to have a finish defect can only be
replaced.
^ Aluminum and chrome wheels replaced under warranty will be subject to random part review and
inspection. Those wheels inspected and found not to be defective and/or should have been
repaired, will be subject to charge back.
Wheels damaged by normal wear, road hazards, car wash brushes, or other physical or chemical
damage are not eligible for warranty coverage.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Chrome Wheel Staining/Pitting/Corrosion
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-03-10-002F
Date: April 21, 2011
Subject: Chemical Staining, Pitting, Corrosion and/or Spotted Appearance of Chromed Aluminum
Wheels
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update model years, suggest additional restorative
products and add additional corrosion information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
00-03-10-002E (Section 03 - Suspension). Important You may give a copy of this bulletin to the
customer.
What is Chemical Staining of Chrome Wheels? Figure 1
Chemical staining in most cases results from acid based cleaners (refer to Figure 1 for an
example). These stains are frequently milky, black, or greenish in appearance. They result from
using cleaning solutions that contain acids on chrome wheels. Soap and water is usually sufficient
to clean wheels.
If the customer insists on using a wheel cleaner they should only use one that specifically states
that it is safe for chromed wheels and does not contain anything in the following list. (Dealers
should also survey any products they use during prep or normal cleaning of stock units for these
chemicals.)
- Ammonium Bifluoride (fluoride source for dissolution of chrome)
- Hydrofluoric Acid (directly dissolves chrome)
- Hydrochloric Acid (directly dissolves chrome)
- Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonic Acid
- Sulfamic Acid
- Phosphoric Acid
- Hydroxyacetic Acid
Notice
Many wheel cleaner instructions advise to take care to avoid contact with painted surfaces. Most
customers think of painted surfaces as the fenders, quarter panels and other exterior sheet metal.
Many vehicles have painted brake calipers. Acidic wheel cleaners may craze, crack, or discolor the
paint on the brake calipers. Damage from wheel cleaners is not covered under the vehicle new car
warranty. Soap and water applied with a soft brush is usually all that is required to clean the
calipers.
Whenever any wheel cleaner is used, it must be THOROUGHLY rinsed off of the wheel with clean,
clear water. Special care must be taken to rinse under the hub cap, balance weights, wheel nuts,
lug nut caps, between the wheel cladding and off the back side of the wheel. Wheels returned to
the Warranty Parts Center (WPC) that exhibit damage from wheel cleaners most often have the
damage around and under the wheel weight where the cleaner was incompletely flushed away.
Notice
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 9422
Do not use cleaning solutions that contain hydrofluoric, oxalic and most other acids on chrome
wheels (or any wheels).
If the customer is unsure of the chemical make-up of a particular wheel cleaner, it should be
avoided.
For wheels showing signs of milky staining from acidic cleaners, refer to Customer Assistance and
Instructions below.
Warranty of Stained Chrome Wheels
Stained wheels are not warrantable. Most acid based cleaners will permanently stain chrome
wheels. Follow-up with dealers has confirmed that such cleaners were used on wheels that were
returned to the Warranty Parts Center (WPC). Any stained wheels received by the WPC will be
charged back to the dealership. To assist the customer, refer to Customer Assistance and
Instructions below.
Pitting or Spotted Appearance of Chrome Wheels Figure 2
A second type or staining or finish disturbance may result from road chemicals, such as calcium
chloride used for dust control of unpaved roads. The staining will look like small pitting (refer to
Figure 2). This staining will usually be on the leading edges of each wheel spoke, but may be
uniformly distributed. If a vehicle must be operated under such conditions, the chrome wheels
should be washed with mild soap and water and thoroughly rinsed as soon as conveniently
possible.
Important Road chemicals, such as calcium chloride used for dust control of unpaved roads, can
also stain chrome wheels. The staining will look like small pitting. This staining will usually be on
the leading edges of each wheel spoke. This is explained by the vehicle traveling in the forward
direction while being splashed by the road chemical. If a vehicle must be operated under such
conditions, the chrome wheels should be washed with mild soap and water and thoroughly rinsed
as soon as conveniently possible.
Warranty of Pitted or Spotted Chrome Wheels
Wheels returned with pitting or spotting as a result of road chemicals may be replaced one time.
Damage resulting from contact with these applied road chemicals is corrosive to the wheels finish
and may cause damage if the wheels are not kept clean.
Important Notify the customer that this is a one time replacement. Please stress to the customer
the vital importance of keeping the wheels clean if they are operating the vehicle in an area that
applies calcium chloride or other dust controlling chemicals! "GM of Canada" dealers require prior
approval by the District Manager - Customer Care and Service Process (DM-CCSP).
"Stardust" Corrosion of Chrome Wheels Figure 3
A third type of finish disturbance results from prolonged exposure to brake dust and resultant
penetration of brake dust through the chrome. As brakes are applied hot particles of brake material
are thrown off and tend to be forced through the leading edge of the wheel spoke windows by
airflow. These
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 9423
hot particles embed themselves in the chrome layer and create a small pit. If the material is allowed
to sit on the wheel while it is exposed to moisture or salt, it will corrode the wheel beneath the
chrome leaving a pit or small blister in the chrome.
Heavy brake dust build-up should be removed from wheels by using GM Chrome Cleaner and
Polish, P/N 1050173 (in Canada use 10953013). For moderate cleaning, light brake dust build-up
or water spots use GM Swirl Remover Polish, P/N 12377965 (in Canada, use Meguiars
Plast-X(TM) Clear Plastic Cleaner and Polish #G12310C**). After cleaning, the wheel should be
waxed using GM Cleaner Wax, P/N 12377966 (in Canada, use Meguiars Cleaner Wax
#M0616C**), which will help protect the wheel from brake dust and reduce adhesion of any brake
dust that gets on the wheel surface. For general maintenance cleaning, PEEK Metal Polish† may
be used. It will clean and shine the chrome and leave behind a wax coating that may help protect
the finish.
Warranty of Stardust Corroded Chrome Wheels
Wheels returned with pitting or spotting as a result of neglect and brake dust build-up may be
replaced one time.
Important Notify the customer that this is a one time replacement. Please stress to the customer
the vital importance of keeping the wheels clean and free of prolonged exposure to brake dust
build-up. "GM of Canada" dealers require prior approval by the District Manager - Customer Care
and Service Process (DM-CCSP).
Customer Assistance and Instructions
GM has looked for ways customers may improve the appearance of wheels damaged by acidic
cleaners. The following product and procedure has been found to dramatically improve the
appearance of stained wheels. For wheels that have milky stains caused by acidic cleaners try the
following:
Notice
THE 3M CHROME AND METAL POLISH REQUIRED FOR THIS PROCEDURE IS AN
EXTREMELY AGGRESSIVE POLISH/CLEANER. THE WHEELS MUST BE CLEANED BEFORE
APPLICATION TO AVOID SCRATCHING THE WHEEL SURFACE. THIS PRODUCT WILL
REDUCE THE THICKNESS OF THE CHROME PLATING ON THE WHEEL AND IF USED
INCORRECTLY OR EXCESSIVELY MAY REMOVE THE CHROME PLATING ALL TOGETHER,
EXPOSING A LESS BRIGHT AND BRASSY COLORED SUB-LAYER. FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS
EXACTLY.
1. Wash the wheels with vigorously with soap and water. This step will clean and may reduce
wheel staining. Flood all areas of the wheel with water
to rinse.
2. Dry the wheels completely.
Notice Begin with a small section of the wheel and with light pressure buff off polish and examine
results. ONLY apply and rub with sufficient force and time to remove enough staining that you are
satisfied with the results. Some wheels may be stained to the extent that you may only achieve a
50% improvement while others may be able to be restored to the original lustre. IN ALL CASES,
only apply until the results are satisfactory.
3. Apply 3M Chrome and Metal Polish #39527* with a clean terry cloth towel. As you apply the
polish, the staining will be diminished. 4. When dry, buff off the polish with a clean portion of the
towel. 5. Repeat application of the 3M Chrome and Metal Polish until satisfied with the results. If
continued applications fail to improve the appearance
further discontinue use.
This procedure will improve the appearance of the wheels and may, with repeated applications,
restore the finish dramatically. For wheels that exhibit spotting from road chemicals the above
procedure may marginally improve the condition but will not restore the finish or remove the pitting.
In this type of staining the wheel finish has actually been removed in spots and no manner of
cleaning will restore the finish.
†*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers
of such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or
assume any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may
be available from other sources.
Parts Information
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 9424
*This product is currently available from 3M. To obtain information for your local retail location
please call 3M at 1-888-364-3577.
**This product is currently available from Meguiars (Canada). To obtain information for your local
retail location please call Meguiars at 1-800-347-5700 or at www.meguiarscanada.com.
^ This product is currently available from Tri-Peek International. To obtain information for your local
retail location please call Tri-Peek at
1-877-615-4272 or at www.tripeek.com.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 99-08-51-007E > Mar > 11 > Wheels/Tires Refinishing Aluminum Wheels
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels/Tires - Refinishing Aluminum Wheels
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 99-08-51-007E
Date: March 17, 2011
Subject: Refinishing Aluminum Wheels
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add additional model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 99-08-51-007D (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
This bulletin updates General Motor's position on refinishing aluminum wheels. GM does not
endorse any repairs that involve welding, bending, straightening or re-machining. Only cosmetic
refinishing of the wheel's coatings, using recommended procedures, is allowed.
Evaluating Damage
In evaluating damage, it is the GM Dealer's responsibility to inspect the wheel for corrosion,
scrapes, gouges, etc. The Dealer must insure that such damage is not deeper than what can be
sanded or polished off. The wheel must be inspected for cracks. If cracks are found, discard the
wheel. Any wheels with bent rim flanges must not be repaired or refinished. Wheels that have been
refinished by an outside company must be returned to the same vehicle. The Dealer must record
the wheel ID stamp or the cast date on the wheel in order to assure this requirement. Refer to
Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company later in this bulletin.
Aluminum Wheel Refinishing Recommendations
- Chrome-plated aluminum wheels Re-plating these wheels is not recommended.
- Polished aluminum wheels These wheels have a polyester or acrylic clearcoat on them. If the
clearcoat is damaged, refinishing is possible. However, the required refinishing process cannot be
performed in the dealer environment. Refer to Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company later
in this bulletin.
- Painted aluminum wheels These wheels are painted using a primer, color coat, and clearcoat
procedure. If the paint is damaged, refinishing is possible. As with polished wheels, all original
coatings must be removed first. Media blasting is recommended. Refer to GM Aluminum
Refinishing Bulletin #53-17-03A for the re-painting of this type of wheel.
- Bright, machined aluminum wheels These wheels have a polyester or acrylic clearcoat on them.
In some cases, the recessed "pocket" areas of the wheel may be painted. Surface refinishing is
possible. The wheel must be totally stripped by media blasting or other suitable means. The wheel
should be resurfaced by using a sanding process rather than a machining process. This allows the
least amount of material to be removed.
Important Do not use any re-machining process that removes aluminum. This could affect the
dimensions and function of the wheel.
Painting is an option to re-clearcoating polished and bright machined aluminum wheels. Paint will
better mask any surface imperfections and is somewhat more durable than clearcoat alone. GM
recommends using Corsican SILVER WAEQ9283 for a fine "aluminum-like" look or Sparkle
SILVER WA9967 for a very bright look. As an option, the body color may also be used. When using
any of the painting options, it is recommended that all four wheels be refinished in order to maintain
color uniformity. Refer to GM Aluminum Refinishing Bulletin #53-17-03A for specific procedures
and product recommendations.
Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company
Important Some outside companies are offering wheel refinishing services. Such refinished wheels
will be permanently marked by the refinisher and are warranted by the refinisher. Any process that
re-machines or otherwise re-manufactures the wheel should not be used.
A refinisher's responsibility includes inspecting for cracks using the Zyglo system or the equivalent.
Any cracked wheels must not be refinished. No welding, hammering or reforming of any kind is
allowed. The wheel ID must be recorded and follow the wheel throughout the process in order to
assure that the same wheel is returned. A plastic media blast may be used for clean up of the
wheel. Hand and/or lathe sanding of the machined surface and the wheel window is allowed.
Material removal, though, must be kept to a minimum. Re-machining of the wheel is not allowed.
Paint and/or clear coat must not be present on the following surfaces: the nut chamfers, the wheel
mounting surfaces and the wheel pilot hole. The refinisher must permanently ID stamp the wheel
and warrant the painted/clearcoated surfaces for a minimum of one year or the remainder of the
new vehicle warranty, whichever is
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 99-08-51-007E > Mar > 11 > Wheels/Tires Refinishing Aluminum Wheels > Page 9429
longer.
Important Whenever a wheel is refinished, the mounting surface and the wheel nut contact
surfaces must not be painted or clearcoated. Coating these surfaces could affect the wheel nut
torque.
When re-mounting a tire on an aluminum wheel, coated balance weights must be used in order to
reduce the chance of future cosmetic damage.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 06-03-10-010A > Jun > 10 > Wheels - Changing
Procedures/Precautions
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Changing Procedures/Precautions
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 06-03-10-010A
Date: June 09, 2010
Subject: Information on Proper Wheel Changing Procedures and Cautions
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2010 and Prior HUMMER Models 2005-2009 Saab
9-7X 2005-2009 Saturn Vehicles
Attention:
Complete wheel changing instructions for each vehicle line can be found under Tire and Wheel
Removal and Installation in Service Information (SI). This bulletin is intended to quickly review and
reinforce simple but vital procedures to reduce the possibility of achieving low torque during wheel
installation. Always refer to SI for wheel lug nut torque specifications and complete jacking
instructions for safe wheel changing.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to include the 2011 model year and update the available
special tool list. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-03-10-010 (Section 03 Suspension).
Frequency of Wheel Changes - Marketplace Driven
Just a few years ago, the increasing longevity of tires along with greater resistance to punctures
had greatly reduced the number of times wheels were removed to basically required tire rotation
intervals. Today with the booming business in accessory wheels/special application tires (such as
winter tires), consumers are having tire/wheel assemblies removed - replaced - or installed more
than ever. With this increased activity, it opens up more of a chance for error on the part of the
technician. This bulletin will review a few of the common concerns and mistakes to make yourself
aware of.
Proper Servicing Starts With the Right Tools
The following tools have been made available to assist in proper wheel and tire removal and
installation.
- J 41013 Rotor Resurfacing Kit (or equivalent)
- J 42450-A Wheel Hub Resurfacing Kit (or equivalent)
Corroded Surfaces
One area of concern is corrosion on the mating surfaces of the wheel to the hub on the vehicle.
Excessive corrosion, dirt, rust or debris built up on these surfaces can mimic a properly tightened
wheel in the service stall. Once the vehicle is driven, the debris may loosen, grind up or be washed
away from water splash. This action may result in clearance at the mating surface of the wheel and
an under-torqued condition.
Caution
Before installing a wheel, remove any buildup on the wheel mounting surface and brake drum or
brake disc mounting surface. Installing wheels with poor metal-to-metal contact at the mounting
surfaces can cause wheel nuts to loosen. This may cause a wheel to come off when the vehicle is
moving, possibly resulting in a loss of control or personal injury.
Whenever you remove the tire/wheel assemblies, you must inspect the mating surfaces. If
corrosion is found, you should remove the debris with a die grinder equipped with a fine sanding
pad, wire brush or cleaning disc. Just remove enough material to assure a clean, smooth mating
surface.
The J 41013 (or equivalent) can be used to clean the following surfaces:
- The hub mounting surface
- The brake rotor mounting surface
- The wheel mounting surface
Use the J 42450-A (or equivalent) to clean around the base of the studs and the hub.
Lubricants, Grease and Fluids
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 06-03-10-010A > Jun > 10 > Wheels - Changing
Procedures/Precautions > Page 9434
Some customers may use penetrating oils, grease or other lubricants on wheel studs to aid in
removal or installation. Always use a suitable cleaner/solvent to remove these lubricants prior to
installing the wheel and tire assemblies. Lubricants left on the wheel studs may cause improper
readings of wheel nut torque. Always install wheels to clean, dry wheel studs ONLY.
Notice
Lubricants left on the wheel studs or vertical mounting surfaces between the wheel and the rotor or
drum may cause the wheel to work itself loose after the vehicle is driven. Always install wheels to
clean, dry wheel studs and surfaces ONLY. Beginning with 2011 model year vehicles, put a light
coating of grease, GM P/N 1051344 (in Canada, P/N 9930370), on the inner surface of the wheel
pilot hole to prevent wheel seizure to the axle or bearing hub.
Wheel Stud and Lug Nut Damage
Always inspect the wheel studs and lug nuts for signs of damage from crossthreading or abuse.
You should never have to force wheel nuts down the stud. Lug nuts that are damaged may not
retain properly, yet give the impression of fully tightening. Always inspect and replace any
component suspected of damage.
Tip
Always start wheel nuts by hand! Be certain that all wheel nut threads have been engaged
BEFORE tightening the nut.
Important If the vehicle has directional tread tires, verify the directional arrow on the outboard side
of the tire is pointing in the direction of forward rotation.
Wheel Nut Tightening and Torque
Improper wheel nut tightening can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. In order to avoid
additional brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts to the proper torque specification as shown
for each vehicle in SI. Always observe the proper wheel nut tightening sequence as shown below in
order to avoid trapping the wheel on the wheel stud threads or clamping the wheel slightly off
center resulting in vibration.
The Most Important Service You Provide
While the above information is well known, and wheel removal so common, technicians run the risk
of becoming complacent on this very important
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 06-03-10-010A > Jun > 10 > Wheels - Changing
Procedures/Precautions > Page 9435
service operation. A simple distraction or time constraint that rushes the job may result in personal
injury if the greatest of care is not exercised. Make it a habit to double check your work and to
always side with caution when installing wheels.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 04-03-10-012B > Feb > 08 > Wheels - Chrome
Wheel Brake Dust Accumulation/Pitting
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Chrome Wheel Brake Dust Accumulation/Pitting
Bulletin No.: 04-03-10-012B
Date: February 01, 2008
INFORMATION
Subject: Pitting and Brake Dust on Chrome wheels
Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2008 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2005-2008 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
04-03-10-012A (Section 03 - Suspension).
Analysis of Returned Wheels
Chrome wheels returned under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty for pitting concerns have
recently been evaluated. This condition is usually most severe in the vent (or window) area of the
front wheels. This "pitting" may actually be brake dust that has been allowed to accumulate on the
wheel. The longer this accumulation builds up, the more difficult it is to remove.
Cleaning the Wheels
In all cases, the returned wheels could be cleaned to their original condition using GM Vehicle Care
Cleaner Wax, P/N 12377966 (in Canada, P/N 10952905). When using this product, you should
confine your treatment to the areas of the wheel that show evidence of the brake dust build-up.
This product is only for use on chromed steel or chromed aluminum wheels.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Wheel replacement for this condition is NOT applicable under the terms of the New Vehicle Limited
Warranty.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 99-03-10-102 > Jun > 99 > Warranty - OE Chrome
Plated Aluminum Wheel ID
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Warranty - OE Chrome Plated Aluminum Wheel ID
File In Section: 03 - Suspension
Bulletin No.: 99-03-10-102
Date: June, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Original Equipment Chrome Plated Aluminum Wheel Identification
Models: 1999 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
Chrome plated aluminum wheels have been returned to the Warranty Parts Center that are not the
original equipment (OE) components.
Original equipment chrome plated aluminum wheels can be identified by either a balance weight
clip retention groove (1) or a step (2) that is machined around both of the wheel's rim flanges. The
rim flanges (3) of painted original equipment aluminum wheels do not have a groove or a step.
Chrome plated aluminum wheels that do not have the wheel rim flange groove or step are
aftermarket chrome plated components and are NOT warrantable. Any aftermarket chrome wheels
received by the Warranty Parts Center will be charged back to the dealership.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 72-05-05 > Aug > 97 > Warranty - Guidelines for
Using E0420 Wheel Replace
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Warranty - Guidelines for Using E0420 Wheel Replace
File In Section: Warranty Administration
Bulletin No.: 72-05-05
Date: August, 1997
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Subject: Guidelines for Using EO42O Wheel Replace
Models: 1989-98 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide service personnel with guidelines for using the above
subject labor operation.
Effective with repair orders dated on or after September 1, 1997, dealers are to be guided by the
following:
^ Aluminum Wheels (including chrome plated) with Porosity - Wheels that exhibit porosity should
be repaired as described in the vehicle service manual. Wheels should not be replaced without
wholesale approval.
^ Aluminum Wheels (except chrome plated) with a "Finish Defect" - Wheels that exhibit a defect in
the finish, (i.e., discoloration or surface degradation) should be refinished as described in the
Corporate Service Bulletin Number 53-17-03A released in May, 1996.
^ Chrome Wheels - Wheels that are chromed and found to have a finish defect can only be
replaced.
^ Aluminum and chrome wheels replaced under warranty will be subject to random part review and
inspection. Those wheels inspected and found not to be defective and/or should have been
repaired, will be subject to charge back.
Wheels damaged by normal wear, road hazards, car wash brushes, or other physical or chemical
damage are not eligible for warranty coverage.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 9448
Wheels: Specifications
Maximum Lateral Runout:
Aluminum Wheels ................................................................................................................................
........................................... 0.76 mm (0.030 inch) Steel Wheels ........................................................
............................................................................................................................ 1.14 mm (0.045
inch)
Maximum Radial Runout:
Aluminum Wheels ................................................................................................................................
........................................... 0.76 mm (0.030 inch) Steel Wheels ........................................................
............................................................................................................................ 1.01 mm (0.040
inch)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service
Precautions > Technician Safety Information
Wheels: Technician Safety Information
WARNING: This vehicle has a Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System. Refer to the SIR
Component and Wiring Location view in order to determine whether you are performing service on
or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring. When you are performing service on or near the SIR
components or the SIR wiring, refer to the SIR On-Vehicle Service information. Failure to follow the
WARNINGS could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
WARNING: To help avoid personal Injury when a vehicle is on a hoist, provide additional support
for the vehicle at the opposite end from which components are being removed. This will reduce the
possibility of the vehicle slipping from the hoist.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service
Precautions > Technician Safety Information > Page 9451
Wheels: Vehicle Damage Warnings
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the correct location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and the joint clamping
force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening
sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and
systems.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Description and Operation > General Information
Wheels: Description and Operation General Information
The factory installed tires and wheels are designed to operate with loads up to and including the full
rated load capacity when inflated to the recommended inflation pressures.
Correct tire pressures, wheel alignment and driving techniques have an influence on tire life.
Important: Heavy cornering, excessive rapid acceleration, and heavy braking will increase tire
wear.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information >
Description and Operation > General Information > Page 9454
Wheels: Description and Operation Wheels
Wheels must be replaced if they are bent, dented, have excessive lateral or radial runout, leak air
through welds, have elongated bolt holes, if wheel nuts won't stay tight, or if they are heavily
rusted. Wheels with excessive runout may cause objectionable vibrations.
Replacement wheels must be equivalent to the original equipment wheels in load capacity,
diameter, rim width, offset, and mounting configuration. A wheel of improper size or type may affect
wheel and bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer/odometer calibration, vehicle ground clearance,
and tire clearance to the body and chassis.
Steel wheels can be identified by a two or three-letter code stamped into the rim near the valve
stem. Aluminum wheels have the code, part number, and manufacturer ID cast into their back side.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > General Information
Wheels: Testing and Inspection General Information
Wheel runout should be measured with an accurate dial indicator. Measurements may be taken
with the wheel installed on the vehicle, or off the vehicle using an accurate mounting surface such
as on a wheel balancer. Measurements may also be taken with or without the tire mounted on the
wheel.
Radial runout and lateral runout should be measured on both the inboard and outboard rim flanges.
With the dial indicator firmly in position, slowly rotate the wheel one revolution and record the total
indicator reading. If any measurement exceeds specifications, and there is a vibration that wheel
balancing will not correct, the wheel should be replaced. Disregard any indicator readings due to
welds, paint runs, scratches, etc.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > General Information > Page 9457
Wheels: Testing and Inspection Steel Wheels
^ Radial runout 1.01 mm (0.040 inch)
^ Lateral runout 1.14 mm (0.045 inch)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > General Information > Page 9458
Wheels: Testing and Inspection Aluminum Wheels
^ Radial runout 0.76 mm (0.030 inch)
^ Lateral runout 0.76 mm (0.030 inch)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service
Wheels: Service and Repair On-Vehicle Service
Wheel Removal
GENERAL INFORMATION
Penetrating oil has not been found to be effective in removing tight wheels. However, if it is used, it
should be applied sparingly to the wheel center hole area only.
CAUTION: If penetrating oil gets on the vertical surfaces between the wheel and the rotor or drum,
it could cause the wheel to work loose as the vehicle is driven, resulting in a loss of control and an
injury accident. Never use heat to loosen a tight wheel. It can shorten the life of the wheel, studs or
hub and bearing assemblies. Wheel nuts must be tightened in sequence and to the proper fastener
tightening specification to avoid bending the wheel or rotor.
Sometimes wheels can be difficult to remove due to foreign material or a tight fit between the wheel
center hole and the rotor. Excessive force such as hammering the wheel or tire can cause damage
and is not recommended. Slight tapping on the tire sidewall using a large rubber mallet is
acceptable.
The wheel can be removed without damage as follows: 1. Tighten all wheel nuts on the affected
wheel. Then loosen each nut two turns. Rock the vehicle side to side. If this is not effective, go to
step 2.2. 2. Rock the vehicle from "DRIVE" to "REVERSE," allowing the vehicle to move several
feet in each direction. Apply quick, hard jabs on the brake
pedal to loosen the wheel. If the wheel still does not free up, then rock the vehicle again from side
to side as hard as possible using one or more persons' body weight. If the wheel is still tight, repeat
the procedure.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle and suitably support. 2. Wheel cover, if equipped. 3. Wheel nuts.
^ Mark location of tire and wheel assembly to hub assembly.
^ Clean wheel nuts, studs and the wheel and brake drum or rotor mounting surfaces.
CAUTION: Before installing a wheel, remove any buildup of corrosion on the wheel mounting
surface and brake drum or rotor by scraping and wire brushing. Installing wheels without good
metal-to-metal contact at the mounting surfaces can cause wheel nuts to loosen, which may later
allow the wheel to come off while the vehicle is in motion.
Wheel Installation
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Hub cap on aluminum wheel, if removed. 2. Tire and wheel assembly.
^ Align locating mark of tire and wheel to hub assembly.
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for the application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener tightening specification and the
joint clamping force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct
tightening sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to
parts and systems.
CAUTION: Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. Tighten the wheel nuts with your fingers until
they are snug. Then, tighten the nuts (in the sequence shown) to the fastener tightening
specification, refer SPECIFICATIONS. Improperly tightened wheel nuts could
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 9461
eventually allow the wheel to come off while the vehicle is moving, possibly causing loss of control,
personal injury and property damage.
3. Wheel nuts.
^ Tighten wheel nuts in sequence to 140 Nm (100 ft. lbs.).
4. Wheel cover, if equipped. 5. Lower vehicle.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 9462
Wheels: Service and Repair Aluminum Wheels - Additional Information
Aluminum Wheel Hub Cap
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle and suitably support. 2. Tire and wheel assembly. 3. Hub cap.
^ Place a block of wood approximately 50 mm (2 inches) in diameter with a squared off end against
the back surface of the cap. A sharp hammer blow on the block of wood will remove the cap.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Hub cap
^ Place cap into position at wheel opening and place a block of wood at least 75 mm (3 inches) on
diameter against cap face. Install cabby striking block of wood with hammer.
NOTICE: Failure to hit cap squarely without the load distributed evenly could result in permanent
damage to the cap.
2. Tire and wheel assembly.
Aluminum Wheel Porosity Repair
1. Raise vehicle and suitably support. 2. Remove tire and wheel assembly. 3. Locate leaking areas
by inflating tire to 275 kPa (40 psi) and dipping tire and wheel assembly into a water bath. 4. Mark
leak areas and remove tire from wheel. Refer to TIRE MOUNTING AND DISMOUNTING. 5. Scuff
inside rim surface at leak area with 80 number grit sandpaper and clean area with general purpose
cleaner such as 3M P/N 08984 or
equivalent.
6. Apply 3 mm (1/8") thick layer of adhesive/sealant P/N 1052366 or equivalent to leak area and
allow six hours of drying time.
CAUTION: To avoid serious personal injury, do not stand over tire when inflating. Bead may break
when bead snaps over safety hump. Do not exceed 275 kPa (40 psi) pressure when inflating any
tire if beads are not seated. If 275 kPa (40 psi) pressure will not seat beads, deflate, lubricate the
beads and reinflate. Overinflation may cause the bead to break and cause serious personal injury.
7. Mount tire on wheel, pressurize to 275 kPa (40 psi) and check for leaks. Refer to TIRE
MOUNTING AND DISMOUNTING. 8. Adjust tire pressure to meet specifications. 9. Balance tire
and wheel assembly.
10. Install tire and wheel assembly.
General Information
A protective clear or color coating is applied to the surface of original equipment cast aluminum
wheels. A surface degradation condition can begin to develop if this clear coating is damaged or
removed. This can happen at some automatic car wash facilities using aggressive silicon carbide
tipped tire brushes to clean white walls and tires. Once the protective coating is damaged,
exposure to caustic cleaners and/or road salt further causes surface degradation. The following
procedure details how to strip, clean and coat aluminum wheels that are affected by these
conditions.
Required Materials: ^
Amchem Alumi Prep number 33 - stock number DX533 or equivalent - cleaning and conditioning
chemical for aluminum.
^ Amchem Alodine number 1001 - stock number DXSOT or equivalent - coating chemical for
aluminum.
^ Ditzler Delclear Acrylic Urethane Clear - stock number DAU-75 or equivalent.
^ Ditzler Delthane Ultra-Urethane Additive - stock DXR-80 or equivalent.
Initial Preparation
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle. Refer to WHEEL REMOVAL.
^ Match mark tire for reinstallation of outboard wheel weights after recoating of wheel.
2. Outboard wheel weights.
^ Clean: Wheel inside and out with a water base all purpose cleaner. Remove grease or oil with a solvent
cleaner.
Accent Color Preparation
^ Sand over painted areas that do not require recoloring with number 400 grit (wet or dry) to
promote adhesion of clear coat.
Surface Damage
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 9463
CAUTION: Do not use vehicle power to rotate the wheel while sanding or personal Injury may
result.
1. Mount tire and wheel on brake lathe and spin slowly.
NOTICE: Do not use abrasive coarser than 80 grit or wheel may be damaged.
2. Sand wheel with backing block or pad by holding abrasive flat to surface of wheel and moving
slowly back and forth from center to outer edge to
remove damage. Use the following sandpaper grits in the order listed. A. Sand with number 80 grit
sandpaper. B. Sand with number 150 grit sandpaper. C. Sand with number 240 grit sandpaper.
3. Continue with "RECOATING PROCEDURE."
Clear Coat Damage on Unpainted Wheels
CAUTION: Use of rubber gloves and eye protection Is necessary to prevent personal injury.
1. Apply chemical stripper.
^ Allow stripper to penetrate coating.
^ Use small 1/4 inch detail brush dipped in stripper to apply material around perimeter and
spoke-like areas.
2. Remove stripper following manufacturers recommendations.
CAUTION: Do not use vehicle power to rotate the wheel while sanding or personal injury may
result.
3. Sand wheel with 240 grit while rotating wheel on a slow spinning brake lathe or by mounting on
vehicle and spinning by hand. This will restore
the machined appearance and promote adhesion.
4. Continue with "RECOATING PROCEDURE."
Recoating Procedure
CAUTION: Use of rubber gloves and eye protection Is necessary to prevent personal Injury.
1. Clean surface of contaminants by washing with soap and water. 2. Spray the wheel with
Amchem number 33 or equivalent.
^ Let the wheel soak for 1 to 3 minutes.
^ Rinse the wheel with water and blow dry.
3. Soak wheel with Amchem #1001 or equivalent.
^ Let the wheel soak for 1 to 3 minutes.
^ Rinse the wheel with water and blow dry.
4. Mask off the tire.
CAUTION: To avoid serious personal injury when applying any two part component paint system,
follow the specific precautions provided by the paint manufacturer. Failure to follow these
precautions may cause lung irritation and allergic respiratory reaction.
5. Finish the wheel with Ditzler Delclear Acrylic Urethane and Ditzler Ultra-Urethane Additive or
equivalent using three coats. Refer to labels for
specific directions. ^
First Coat - Light mist coat, let flash.
^ Second Coat - Light, let flash.
^ Third Coat - Heavy double wet coat.
6. Let the wheel dry for 24 hours (or flash for 30 minutes) or force dry at 60° C (140° F) for 30
minutes, then allow to cool for 30 minutes before
mounting.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Balance wheel and tire assembly.
^ Replace the original balance weights with nylon coated weights to avoid discoloration of the
wheel.
2. Tire and wheel assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 9464
Wheels: Service and Repair Wheel Repair
Wheel repairs that use welding, heating, or peening are not approved. An inner tube is not an
acceptable repair for leaky wheels or tires. Porosity in aluminum wheels can be repaired. Refer to
"ALUMINUM WHEEL POROSITY REPAIR".
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 9465
Wheels: Service and Repair Balancing Tire and Wheel
General Balance Precautions
Deposits of foreign material must be cleaned from the inside of the wheel. When balancing
aluminum and composite wheels, the balancer pressure cup should have a protective plastic or
rubber edge on it to avoid damaging the rim surface finish. Stones should be removed from the
tread in order to avoid operator injury during spin balancing and to obtain a good balance. The tire
should be inspected for any damage, then balanced according to the equipment manufacturer's
recommendations.
General Information
There are two types of tire and wheel balancing, static and dynamic. Static balance is the equal
distribution of weight around the wheel. Assemblies that are statically unbalanced cause a
bouncing action called wheel tramp. This condition may eventually cause uneven tire wear.
Dynamic balance is the equal distribution of weight on each side of the centerline so that when the
assembly spins there is no tendency for it to move from side to side. Assemblies that are
dynamically unbalanced may cause wheel shimmy.
Off-Vehicle Balancing
Wheel balancing should be performed using an electronic off-vehicle balancer. They are easy to
use and give both a static and a dynamic balance. Although they do not correct for drum or rotor
unbalance as does on-vehicle spin balancing, this is overcome by their accuracy (usually to within
1/8 ounce). When balancing off-vehicle, the wheel should locate on the balancer with a cone
through the back side of the center pilot hole (not by the wheel stud holes).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Service
and Repair > On-Vehicle Service > Page 9466
On-Vehicle Balancing
When needed, on-vehicle balancing will help correct vibrations due to brake drum, rotor, and wheel
cover imbalance.
The front suspension should not be allowed to hang free. When the CV joint is run at a very high
angle, extra vibrations can occur, resulting in damage to boots and joints. Always follow the
equipment manufacturer's instructions.
When balancing on-vehicle, do not remove the balance weights from the off-vehicle dynamic
balance. If more than one ounce of additional weight is required, it should be split between the
inner and outer rim flange.
NOTICE: The driven tire and wheel assemblies should be spun using the engine. Limit speed as
stated in the following Caution.
CAUTION: Do not spin the drive wheels faster than 55 km/h (35 mph) as indicated by the
speedometer. This limit is necessary because the speedometer indicates only one-half of the
actual wheel speed when one drive wheel is spinning and the other drive wheel is stopped.
Personal injury and damage may result from high speed spinning.
Wheel Balance Weights
When static balancing, if more than 40 grams (1.0 oz.) are needed, the wheel weights should be
split as equal as possible between the inboard and outboard flanges.
Balancing factory aluminum wheels requires the use of special nylon coated clip on wheel weights.
These weights are designed to fit over the thicker rim flange of the aluminum wheel and should be
installed with a plastic tipped hammer.
Adhesive wheel weights are also available. Use the following procedure to install adhesive wheel
weights.
Adhesive Wheel Weight Installation: 1. Clean wheel by sanding to bare aluminum where wheel
weight is to be located. 2. Wipe wheel weight attachment area with a mixture of half Isopropyl
alcohol and half water. A clean cloth or paper towel must be used for this
operation.
3. Dry the attachment area with hot air. Surface of wheel should be warm to the touch. 4. The
adhesive backing on wheel weights must be warmed to room temperature. 5. Remove tape from
back of weights. Do not touch the adhesive surface. 6. Apply wheel weight and press on with hand
pressure. 7. Secure wheel weight with a 70 - 110 N (16 - 25 lbs.) force applied with a roller.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Specifications
Wheel Bearing: Specifications
This vehicle uses a sealed wheel bearing and lubricating grease is not required.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 9470
Wheel Bearing: Description and Operation
A non-serviceable unit hub and bearing is bolted to the knuckle. This hub and bearing is a sealed,
maintenance free unit.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
Wheel Bearing: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures > Page 9473
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures > Page 9474
Wheel Bearing: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures > Page 9475
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Front Suspension
FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS AND/OR HUB
^ Tools Required: J 28733-A Front Hub Spindle Remover
- Or Equivalent
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Drive axle. 2. Brake caliper bolts, and support caliper. 3. Brake Rotor. 4. Hub and bearing
assembly. 5. Hub and bearing assembly from steering knuckle. 6. Hub and bearing.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Hub and bearing assembly to steering knuckle. 2. Hub and bearing assembly bolts.
^ Tighten hub and bearing assembly bolts to 95 Nm (70 ft lb).
3. Brake Rotor. 4. Brake caliper and bolts. Refer to Brakes and Traction Control. 5. New hub and
bearing into steering knuckle. 6. Drive axle. 7. Check front wheel alignment.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 9478
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Rear Suspension
REAR WHEEL BEARINGS AND/OR HUB
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle. 2. Wheel and tire assemblies. 3. Brake drum.
NOTICE: Do not hammer on brake drum damage to the assembly could result.
4. Rear ABS wheel speed sensor wire connector. 5. Remove hub and bearing assembly from axle.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Connect rear ABS wheel speed sensor wire connector. 2. Hub and Bearing assembly.
^ Tighten hub and bearing to axle bolts to 95 Nm (70 ft lb).
3. Brake drum. 4. Wheel and tire assembly. 5. Lower vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Cover > Component Information >
Service and Repair
Wheel Cover: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Raise vehicle and suitably support. 2. Tire and wheel assembly. 3. Hub cap.
^ Place a block of wood approximately 50 mm (2 inches) in diameter with a squared off end against
the back surface of the cap. A sharp hammer blow on the block of wood will remove the cap.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Hub cap
^ Place cap into position at wheel opening and place a block of wood at least 75 mm (3 inches) on
diameter against cap face. Install cabby striking block of wood with hammer.
NOTICE: Failure to hit cap squarely without the load distributed evenly could result in permanent
damage to the cap.
2. Tire and wheel assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Drive Axles - Improved Axle Nut Availability
Axle Nut: Technical Service Bulletins Drive Axles - Improved Axle Nut Availability
File In Section: 04 - Driveline Axle
Bulletin No.: 03-04-18-001
Date: February, 2003
INFORMATION
Subject: Availability of New Front Drive Axle Nut
Models: 1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero 1999-2003 Pontiac Grand Am
This bulletin is to inform dealers that a new and improved front drive axle nut has been released for
service of the above listed vehicles.
Use the new nut, P/N 10289657, whenever the front drive axle nut is removed. This new nut is a
torque prevailing nut and is silver in color. The old nut is black in color and has a sheet metal cage
around the nut (shown below). Using the new nut will provide a more consistent clamp load on the
wheel bearing and should help prolong the bearing life.
Notice:
Use the correct tightening specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts
and systems.
Torque
Tighten the new nut to 235 N.m (173 lb ft). The old nut torque was 385 N.m (284 lb ft).
Important:
Some front wheel hub kits may have the old style nut included in the kit. Discard the old nut and
use the new nut, P/N 10289657.
New Style Nut
The nut shown is a torque prevailing nut and is silver colored.
Old Style Nut
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Drive Axles - Improved Axle Nut Availability > Page 9487
The old style nut shown is black and has a sheet metal cage around the nut.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Drive Axles - Improved Axle Nut Availability > Page 9488
Axle Nut: Technical Service Bulletins Steering - Various Revised Tightening Specifications
CHEVROLET 73-32-03A
Issued: 05/01/97
SMU - SECTIONS 3B/3C/4D
REVISION: 04/11/97
THIS BULLETIN IS BEING REVISED TO UPDATE THE DRIVE AXLE NUT TIGHTENING
SPECIFICATIONS FOR THE N CAR. PLEASE DISCARD CORPORATE BULLETIN NUMBER
73-32-03 (SECTION 3 - STEERING/SUSPENSION).
SUBJECT: SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE - SECTIONS 3B/3C/4D - REVISED TIGHTENING
SPECIFICATIONS
MODELS: 1997 CHEVROLET CAVALIER, MALIBU 1997 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS 1997
PONTIAC SUNFIRE
THIS BULLETIN IS BEING ISSUED TO REVISE THE TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS IN
SECTIONS 3B, 3C AND 4D OF THE SERVICE MANUAL AS FOLLOWS:
J CAR
SECTIONS 3B-8, 3B-9, 3C-5 AND 3C-13:
THE CORRECT TIGHTENING SPECIFICATION IS AS FOLLOWS:
- TIE ROD END TO KNUCKLE NUT 20 N.M (15 LB FT) PLUS 90 DEGREE ROTATION.
N CAR
SECTIONS 3C-6 AND 3C-16:
THE CORRECT TIGHTENING SPECIFICATION IS AS FOLLOWS:
- TIE ROD END TO KNUCKLE NUT 20 N.M (15 LB FT) PLUS 180 DEGREE ROTATION.
SECTION 3B-12:
THE CORRECT TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS ARE AS FOLLOWS:
- STEERING COLUMN LOWER PINCH BOLT 22 N.M (16 LB FT)
- STEERING COLUMN UPPER PINCH BOLT 22 N.M (16 LB FT)
SECTIONS 3C-16, 4D-4 AND 4D-5:
THE CORRECT TIGHTENING SPECIFICATION IS AS FOLLOWS:
- FRONT DRIVE AXLE NUT 385 N.M (284 LB FT) +/- 5 N.M (44 LB IN). REPLACE THE DRIVE
AXLE NUT WITH A NEW ONE AFTER EVERY REMOVAL. NEVER RE-USE THE DRIVE AXLE
NUT.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 9489
Axle Nut: Specifications
Service Manual Update #73-32-03A
Drive Axle Nut (New)
............................................................................................................................................... 385 Nm
(284 ft lb) +/- 5 Nm (44 in lb)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Wheel Fastener: > 01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04 > Wheels - Plastic Wheel
Nut Covers Loose/Missing
Wheel Fastener: Customer Interest Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Loose/Missing
Bulletin No.: 01-03-10-009A
Date: July 27, 2004
TECHNICAL
Subject: Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Missing and/or Loose (Replace Missing Covers and Add
Sealant to All Covers)
Models: 2005 and All Prior Passenger Cars (Except All Cadillac Models and Pontiac GTO)
with Plastic Wheel Nut Covers
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add additional models years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 01-03-10-009.
Condition
Some customers may comment that the plastic wheel nut covers are missing and/or loose.
Correction
Important:
^ DO NOT USE a silicone-based adhesive.
^ Do not apply the *permatex(R) around the threads in a circular pattern.
^ Apply a single bead across the threads approximately 10 mm (0.4 in) in length, 5 mm (0.2 in) in
height and 5 mm (0.2 in) in width.
Replace any missing plastic wheel nut covers with the appropriate covers and apply Permatex(R) #
2 Form A Gasket Sealant(R) to the threads of all the plastic wheel nut covers. Tighten finger tight
plus a 1/4 turn with a hand wrench.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such material.
General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the
products from this firm or for any other such items which may be available from other sources.
Permatex(R) # 2 Form A Gasket Sealant(R) part numbers (available at your local parts supplier)
^ P/N 80009 (2A/2AR) - 44 ml (1.5 oz) tube boxed
^ P/N 80015 (2AR) - 44 ml (1.5 oz) tube carded
^ P/N 80010 (2B/2BR) - 89 ml (3 oz) tube boxed
^ P/N 80016 (2BR) - 89 ml (3 oz) tube carded
^ P/N 80011 (2C) - 325 ml (11 oz) tube boxed
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Wheel Fastener: > 01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04 > Wheels - Plastic Wheel
Nut Covers Loose/Missing > Page 9498
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheel Fastener: > 01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04 > Wheels Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Loose/Missing
Wheel Fastener: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Loose/Missing
Bulletin No.: 01-03-10-009A
Date: July 27, 2004
TECHNICAL
Subject: Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Missing and/or Loose (Replace Missing Covers and Add
Sealant to All Covers)
Models: 2005 and All Prior Passenger Cars (Except All Cadillac Models and Pontiac GTO)
with Plastic Wheel Nut Covers
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add additional models years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 01-03-10-009.
Condition
Some customers may comment that the plastic wheel nut covers are missing and/or loose.
Correction
Important:
^ DO NOT USE a silicone-based adhesive.
^ Do not apply the *permatex(R) around the threads in a circular pattern.
^ Apply a single bead across the threads approximately 10 mm (0.4 in) in length, 5 mm (0.2 in) in
height and 5 mm (0.2 in) in width.
Replace any missing plastic wheel nut covers with the appropriate covers and apply Permatex(R) #
2 Form A Gasket Sealant(R) to the threads of all the plastic wheel nut covers. Tighten finger tight
plus a 1/4 turn with a hand wrench.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such material.
General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the
products from this firm or for any other such items which may be available from other sources.
Permatex(R) # 2 Form A Gasket Sealant(R) part numbers (available at your local parts supplier)
^ P/N 80009 (2A/2AR) - 44 ml (1.5 oz) tube boxed
^ P/N 80015 (2AR) - 44 ml (1.5 oz) tube carded
^ P/N 80010 (2B/2BR) - 89 ml (3 oz) tube boxed
^ P/N 80016 (2BR) - 89 ml (3 oz) tube carded
^ P/N 80011 (2C) - 325 ml (11 oz) tube boxed
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheel Fastener: > 01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04 > Wheels Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Loose/Missing > Page 9504
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information
> Specifications > Tightening Torque
Wheel Fastener: Specifications Tightening Torque
Wheels Nuts ........................................................................................................................................
.................................................. 140 Nm (100 ft. lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information
> Specifications > Tightening Torque > Page 9507
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information
> Specifications > Page 9508
Wheel Fastener: Application and ID
All models use metric wheel nuts and wheel studs. The nut will have the word "metric" stamped on
the face and the stud will have the letter "M" stamped into the threaded end. The word "metric" is
stamped on the head.
The thread size of the metric wheel nuts and wheel studs are "M12 x 1.5." This signifies: M = Metric
12 = Diameter in millimeters 1.5 = Millimeters per thread
If a broken stud is found, refer to FRONT SUSPENSION or REAR SUSPENSION for replacement
procedure.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Front Suspension
Wheel Fastener: Service and Repair Front Suspension
^ Tools Required: J 6627-A Wheel Stud Remover
- J 28733-A Front Hub Spindle Remover.
- Or Equivalents
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Hub and bearing assembly. 2. Wheel stud from hub and bearing assembly using tool J 6627-A.
Discard stud.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. New wheel stud into hub and bearing assembly. 2. Flat washers and nut (flat side down) onto
wheel stud, and tighten until wheel stud is fully seated. 3. Hub and bearing assembly. 4. Check
front wheel alignment.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 9511
Wheel Fastener: Service and Repair Rear Suspension
^ Tool Required: J 6627-A Wheel Stud Remover
- Or Equivalent
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Wheel and tire assembly. 2. Brake drum.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information
> Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 9512
NOTICE: Do not hammer on brake drum as damage to the bearing or deformation of the drum
could result.
3. Wheel stud using tool J 6627-A. 4. Dispose of stud.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. New stud (insert from back side of hub). 2. Four flat washers on stud. 3. Wheel nut (install with
flat side toward washers). 4. Tighten nut until stud head is properly seated in hub flange. 5.
Remove nut and washers. 6. Brake drum. 7. Wheel and tire assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Accumulator HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications > Mechanical Specifications
Accumulator HVAC: Mechanical Specifications
Bracket Bolt .........................................................................................................................................
..................................................... 10 N.m (89 lb in)
Tube Nut Fitting ...................................................................................................................................
.................................................. 23.5 N.m (17 lb ft)
Block fitting nut ....................................................................................................................................
..................................................... 24 N.m (17 lb ft)
Bolt ......................................................................................................................................................
...................................................... 16 N.m (12 lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Accumulator HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications > Mechanical Specifications > Page 9518
Accumulator HVAC: Capacity Specifications
The A/C system requires 240 ml (8 fl. oz.) of Polyalkylene Glycol (PAG) refrigerant oil.
NOTE: Always refer to underhood label as your primary specification resource.
Polyalkylene glycol (PAG) refrigerant oil must be added to the system when components are
replaced, as follows:
1. All Compressors (drain and measure the oil).
a Drain oil out both the suction and discharge ports of the replacement as well as the old
compressor.
b. Remove compressor crankcase drain bolt and drain oil from compressor crankcase.
- If less than 30 ml (1 oz.) is drained - add 60 ml (2 oz.) to the new compressor.
- If more than 30 ml (1 oz.) is drained - add same amount that was drained to the new compressor.
c. Install compressor crankcase drain bolt.
- Tighten compressor crankcase bolt to 20 N.m (15 lbs. ft.).
- Up to 120 ml (4 fluid ounces) of oil can collect in the crankcase. Therefore, it is important when
replacing a compressor that the oil in the old compressor crankcase be drained and measured
(discard the old oil after recording the amount).
2. Receiver Dehydrator
^ Add 105 ml (3.5 oz.) to receiver dehydrator.
3. Evaporator
^ Add 90 ml (3 oz.) oil.
4. Condenser
^ Add 30 ml (1 oz.) oil.
6. Refrigerant oil loss due to a large leak:
^ If the refrigerant charge is abruptly lost due to a large refrigerant leak, approximately 90 ml (3 oz.)
of refrigerant oil will be carried out of the system with the refrigerant. Any failure that causes an
abrupt refrigerant discharge will experience this oil loss. Failures that allow the refrigerant to seep
or bleed off over time do not experience this oil loss.
^ Upon replacement of a component which caused a large refrigerant leak, add 90 ml (3 oz.) of
new polyalkylene glycol (PAG) refrigerant oil plus: the required amount of oil for the particular
component (as outlined above).
NOTE: Add the oil directly to the replaced component if possible. If the oil cannot easily be added
to the replaced part, add the oil to the receiver dehydrator.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Accumulator HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 9519
A/C System Plumbing
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Accumulator HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 9520
Accumulator HVAC: Description and Operation
Downstream of the evaporator outlet pipe, the sealed accumulator assembly functions as a
liquid/vapor separator. It receives refrigerant vapor, along with some liquid refrigerant and
refrigerant oil from the evaporator. It allows only refrigerant vapor and oil to pass on to the
compressor.
At the bottom of the accumulator is the desiccant bag. It acts as a drying agent for moisture that
may have entered the system. An oil bleed hole is located near the bottom of the accumulator
outlet pipe to provide an oil return path to the compressor.
If the system is open to air for an extended period of time (due to a front-end collision, removed
parts, etc.) replace the accumulator. The desiccant bag will be saturated with moisture. The
accumulator is serviced by replacement only. The accumulator is located inside the right hand front
fender (forward of the tire/wheel).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Accumulator HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 9521
Accumulator HVAC: Service and Repair
Accumulator Mounting
The accumulator assembly service replacement part includes O-rings (as necessary) for
connections. The desiccant within the shell is NOT serviced separately - it is part of the sealed
accumulator assembly.
The accumulator assembly should be replaced ONLY when the shell is perforated and a refrigerant
leak is found, or the system has been open to the atmosphere for an extended period.
Accumulators do not require periodic replacement due to the following changes:
^ Use of improved desiccant.
^ Use of improved hose material and increased use of metal tubes, both of which reduces the
ability of moisture to enter the refrigerant system.
Refer to Refrigerant Oil Distribution to determine the quantity of oil to be added to an accumulator
that has been replaced.
Tool Required:
J 39500 R-134a Refrigerant Recovery, Recycling, and Recharging (ACR4) System
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Recover refrigerant. Refer to Recovery. 3. Raise vehicle. 4. Right front
tire/wheel. 5. Partially remove splash shield and position aside. 6. Tube nut fitting and block fitting
at accumulator. 7. Accumulator bracket from vehicle. 8. Accumulator from bracket.
Install or Connect
1. Accumulator to bracket.
Important
^ Add required amount of new refrigerant oil. Refer to Refrigerant Oil Distribution.
2. Accumulator bracket to vehicle
Tighten
^ Bolt to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Accumulator HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 9522
3. Tube nut fitting and block fining at accumulator.
Tighten
^ Tube nut to 23.5 N.m (17 lb ft).
^ Block fitting nut to 24 N.m (17 lb ft).
4. Splash shield. 5. Right front tire/wheel. 6. Lower vehicle. 7. Negative battery cable.
Tighten
^ Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
8. Evacuate and charge the A/C system. Refer to Evacuation.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Specifications > Temperature Control Motor
Air Door Actuator / Motor: Specifications Temperature Control Motor
Temperature Motor Screws .................................................................................................................
.......................................................... 1 N.m (9 lb in)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Specifications > Temperature Control Motor > Page 9528
Air Door Actuator / Motor: Specifications Vacuum Actuators
Bolt ......................................................................................................................................................
....................................................... 16 N.m (12 lb ft.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Locations > Temperature Control Motor
Air Door Actuator / Motor: Locations Temperature Control Motor
Heater And A/C Module (Part 1 0f 2)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Locations > Temperature Control Motor > Page 9531
Heater And A/C Module - Top View
The temperature control motor is attached to the right side of the HVAC module evaporator case.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Locations > Temperature Control Motor > Page 9532
Air Door Actuator / Motor: Locations Vacuum Actuators
Heater And A/C Module (Part 1 0f 2)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Locations > Temperature Control Motor > Page 9533
Heater And A/C Module (2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Locations > Temperature Control Motor > Page 9534
Heater And A/C Module - Side View
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Locations > Temperature Control Motor > Page 9535
Heater And A/C Module - Top View
The vacuum actuators are located under the instrument panel and attached to the HVAC module.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Locations > Temperature Control Motor > Page 9536
Top RH Side Of I/P
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Connector Views
Air Temperature Actuator
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Diagrams > Connector Views > Page 9539
HVAC Vacuum Hoses And Actuators
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Temperature Control Motor
Air Door Actuator / Motor: Service and Repair Temperature Control Motor
Heater And A/C Module (Part 1 0f 2)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Temperature Control Motor > Page 9542
Heater And A/C Module - Top View
The temperature control motor is attached to the right side of the HVAC module evaporator case.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Instrument Panel Compartment. 2. Electrical connector from motor. 3. Motor from module.
Install or Connect
1. Motor to module.
Tighten
^ Screws to 1 N.m (9 lb in).
2. Electrical connector to motor. 3. Instrument Panel Compartment.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Temperature Control Motor > Page 9543
Air Door Actuator / Motor: Service and Repair Vacuum Actuators
Mode Valve Vacuum Actuator
Heater And A/C Module (Part 1 0f 2)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Temperature Control Motor > Page 9544
Heater And A/C Module (2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Temperature Control Motor > Page 9545
Heater And A/C Module - Side View
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Temperature Control Motor > Page 9546
Heater And A/C Module - Top View
The vacuum actuators are located under the instrument panel and attached to the HVAC module.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. LH sound insulator. 3. Vacuum hoses from actuator. 4. Unclip actuator
body from module. 5. Actuator rod from mode valve (use 7mm deep socket to compress tangs). 6.
Actuator from the vehicle.
Install or Connect
1. Vacuum actuator from below. 2. Vacuum hoses to actuator. 3. Actuator rod to mode valve. 4. LH
sound insulator. 5. Negative battery cable.
Tighten
^ Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Air Inlet and Defrost Vacuum Actuators
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Temperature Control Motor > Page 9547
Heater And A/C Module (Part 1 0f 2)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Temperature Control Motor > Page 9548
Heater And A/C Module (2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Temperature Control Motor > Page 9549
Heater And A/C Module - Side View
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Temperature Control Motor > Page 9550
Heater And A/C Module - Top View
The vacuum actuators are located under the instrument panel and attached to the HVAC module.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Instrument Panel Compartment. 3. Vacuum hose from air inlet
(recirculation) actuator 4. Air inlet actuator from the module. 5. Air inlet actuator link from the air
inlet valve 6. Defrost actuator link from defrost valve. 7. Hoses from defrost actuator. 8. Defrost
actuator from module.
Install or Connect
1. Defrost actuator to module. 2. Hoses to defrost actuator. 3. Defrost actuator link to defrost valve.
4. Air inlet actuator link to the air inlet valve. 5. Air inlet actuator to the module. 6. Vacuum hose to
air inlet (recirculation) actuator. 7. Instrument Panel compartment. 8. Negative battery cable.
Tighten
^ Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Temperature Control Motor > Page 9551
Air Door Actuator / Motor: Service and Repair Air Distribution Valves
Heater And A/C Module (Part 1 0f 2)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Temperature Control Motor > Page 9552
Heater And A/C Module - Top View
HVAC Module Cut Away View
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Temperature Control Motor > Page 9553
The air distribution valves are located in the HVAC module.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Instrument Panel pad. 3. Valve housing cover from module. 4. Mode
valve actuator link from mode valve 5. Mode valve from module. 6. Defrost valve actuator link from
defrost valve. 7. Defrost valve from module.
Install or Connect
1. Defrost valve to module. 2. Defrost valve actuator link to defrost valve. 3. Mode valve to module.
4. Mode valve actuator link to mode valve 5. Valve housing cover.
Tighten
^ Screws to 1 N.m (9 lb in).
6. Instrument Panel. 7. Negative battery cable.
Tighten
^ Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Duct > Component Information > Specifications > Rear
Floor Heater Duct
Air Duct: Specifications Rear Floor Heater Duct
Floor Outlet Screw ...............................................................................................................................
....................................................... 2 N.m (18 lb in)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Duct > Component Information > Specifications > Rear
Floor Heater Duct > Page 9558
Air Duct: Specifications Defrost and Mode Valves
Valve Housing Cover Screws ..............................................................................................................
......................................................... 1 N.m (9 lb in)
Negative Battery Cable Bolt ................................................................................................................
...................................................... 16 N.m (12 lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Duct > Component Information > Specifications > Page
9559
Air Duct: Locations
Rear Floor Heat Duct
Top Of Dash Trim Pad
It is necessary to partially remove portions of the instrument panel assembly to gain access to the
air distribution ducts as required.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Duct > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Defogger Ducts Replacement
Air Duct: Service and Repair Defogger Ducts Replacement
Description
Remove or Disconnect
1. Instrument Panel assembly. 2. Defogger duct from vehicle.
Install or Connect
1. Defogger duct to vehicle. 2. Instrument Panel assembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Duct > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Defogger Ducts Replacement > Page 9562
Air Duct: Service and Repair Air Outlets Replacement
Description
Remove or Disconnect
1. Cluster trim plate. 2. Bolts 3. Unsnap enter air outlet from trim.
Install or Connect
1. Snap center air outlet to trim. 2. Bolts. 3. Cluster trim plate.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Duct > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Defogger Ducts Replacement > Page 9563
Air Duct: Service and Repair Air Distribution Duct
Description
Remove or Disconnect
1. Instrument Panel Tie Bar.
2. Cross-car air distribution duct.
Install or Connect
1. Cross-car Air Distribution Duct.
2. Instrument Panel Tie Bar.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Duct > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Defogger Ducts Replacement > Page 9564
Air Duct: Service and Repair Air Ducts and Deflector Outlets
Rear Floor Heat Duct
It is necessary to partially remove portions of the instrument panel assembly to gain access to the
air distribution ducts as required.
The rear floor heat duct is located under the console and floor carpeting.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Console. 2. Floor carpeting partially removed to rear of front seat. 3. Rear floor duct.
Install or Connect
1. Rear floor duct.
Tighten
^ Screw to 2 N.m (18 lb in).
2. Floor carpeting 3. Console.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Register > Component Information > Service and Repair
Air Register: Service and Repair
Description
Remove or Disconnect
1. Grill from instrument panel by snapping out and pulling upward.
Install or Connect
1. Grill to instrument panel, snaps into place.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Specifications
Blower Motor: Specifications
Blower Motor and Fan Assembly Retaining Screws
................................................................................................................................... 5 N.m (45 lb in)
Negative Battery Cable Bolt ................................................................................................................
...................................................... 16 N.m (12 lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Locations >
Blower Motor and Fan Assembly
Blower Motor: Locations Blower Motor and Fan Assembly
Heater And A/C Module (Part 1 0f 2)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Locations >
Blower Motor and Fan Assembly > Page 9573
Heater And A/C Module - Top View
The blower motor and fan are located in the lower right corner of the HVAC module.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Locations >
Blower Motor and Fan Assembly > Page 9574
Below RH Side Of I/P
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Locations > Page
9575
Blower Motor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Locations > Page
9576
Blower Motor: Service and Repair
Heater And A/C Module (Part 1 0f 2)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Locations > Page
9577
Heater And A/C Module - Top View
The blower motor and fan are located in the lower right corner of the HVAC module.
The blower motor and fan are serviced as an assembly only.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Right sound insulator. 3. Electrical connections at blower motor. 4.
Blower motor retaining screws. 5. Blower motor and fan assembly.
Install or Connect
1. Blower motor and fan assembly. 2. Retaining screws.
Tighten
^ Screws to 5 N.m (45 lb in).
3. Electrical connections. 4. Right sound insulator. 5. Negative battery cable.
Tighten
^ Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Relay > Component Information > Locations
Blower Motor Relay: Locations
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Left Side Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Resistor > Component Information >
Specifications
Blower Motor Resistor: Specifications
Blower Motor Resistor Screws ............................................................................................................
......................................................... 1 N.m (9 lb in) Blower Motor Screws .........................................
........................................................................................................................................ 5 N.m (44 lb
in)
Negative Battery Cable Bolt ................................................................................................................
...................................................... 16 N.m (12 lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Resistor > Component Information >
Locations > Component Locations
Blower Motor Resistor: Component Locations
Heater And A/C Module (Part 1 0f 2)
The blower motor resistor is located in the lower right corner of the HVAC module, between the
blower motor and the front of dash.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Resistor > Component Information >
Locations > Component Locations > Page 9586
Below RH Side Of I/P
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Resistor > Component Information >
Locations > Page 9587
Blower Resistor Assembly
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Resistor > Component Information >
Locations > Page 9588
Blower Motor Resistor: Service and Repair
Heater And A/C Module (Part 1 0f 2)
The blower motor resistor is located in the lower right corner of the HVAC module, between the
blower motor and the front of dash.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Right sound insulator. 3. Blower motor. 4. Cut portion of dash mat to
gain access to the rear resistor screw. 5. Electrical connections at blower resistor. 6. Blower
resistor screws and resistor.
Install or Connect
1. Blower resistor and resistor screws.
Tighten
^ Screws to 1 N.m (9 lb in).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Resistor > Component Information >
Locations > Page 9589
2. Replace portion of dash mat cut in removal procedure. 3. Electrical connections at blower
resistor. 4. Blower motor.
Tighten
^ Screws to 5 N.m (44 lb in).
5. Right sound insulator. 6. Negative battery cable.
Tighten
^ Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Switch > Component Information >
Specifications
Blower Motor Switch: Specifications
Control Assembly and Retainer Screws to
.................................................................................................................................................. 2 N.m
(18 lb in)
Negative Battery Cable Bolt to ............................................................................................................
...................................................... 16 N.m (12 lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Switch > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 9593
Blower Motor Switch: Service and Repair
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Accessory trim plate. 3. Control assembly screws and pull control
assembly away from the instrument panel. 4. Electrical connection. 5. Blower switch retaining
screws and blower switch
Install or Connect
1. Blower switch and retaining screws.
Tighten
^ Screws, fully driven, seated and not stripped.
2. Electrical connection. 3. Control assembly and retaining screws.
Tighten
^ Screws to 2 N.m (18 lb in).
4. Accessory trim plate. 5. Negative battery cable.
Tighten
^ Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component
Information > Specifications
Compressor Clutch: Specifications
Between clutch plate and rotor
................................................................................................................................................
0.40-0.50mm (0.015-0.020")
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 9598
Front Of Engine
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component
Information > Diagrams > Exploded Views
Compressor Components - Disassembled View
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component
Information > Diagrams > Exploded Views > Page 9601
A/C Compressor Clutch
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch Bearing >
Component Information > Locations
Compressor Components - Disassembled View
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch Bearing >
Component Information > Locations > Page 9605
Compressor Clutch Bearing: Service and Repair
Removing Pulley Rotor & Bearing Assembly Retaining Ring
Installing Pulley Rotor/Bearing Puller Guide
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch Bearing >
Component Information > Locations > Page 9606
Removing Pulley Rotor And Bearing Assembly
Pulley Rotor Bearing Removal
Remove or Disconnect
1. Remove the clutch plate and hub assembly as described previously. 2. Remove rotor and
bearing assembly retaining ring, using snap ring pliers J 6083. 3. Install pulley rotor and bearing
puller guide J 33023-A to the front head and install J 33020 pulley rotor and bearing puller down
into the inner
circle of slots in the rotor. Turn the J 33020 puller clockwise in the slots to engage the puller tangs
with the segments between the slots in the rotor.
4. Hold the J 33020 puller in place and tighten the puller screw against the puller guide to remove
the pulley rotor and bearing assembly. 5. To prevent damage to the pulley rotor during bearing
removal the rotor hub must be properly supported.
Remove the forcing screw from J 33020 puller and, with the puller tangs still engaged in the rotor
slots, invert the assembly onto a solid flat surface or blocks as shown in the illustration.
6. Drive the bearing out of the rotor hub with rotor bearing remover J 9398-A and J 29886 universal
handle.
NOTICE: It is not necessary to remove the staking in front of the bearing to remove the bearing.
however, it will be necessary to file away the old stake metal for proper clearance for the new
bearing to be installed into the rotor bore or the bearing may be damaged.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch Bearing >
Component Information > Locations > Page 9607
Installing Pulley Rotor Bearing
Staking Bearing In Rotor Hub Bore
Bearing Staked In Place
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch Bearing >
Component Information > Locations > Page 9608
Installing Pulley Rotor And Bearing Assembly
Install or Connect
1. Place the pulley rotor on the J 21352-A support block to fully support the rotor hub during
bearing installation.
NOTICE: Do Not support the rotor by resting the pulley rim on a flat surface during the bearing
installation or the rotor face will be bent.
2. Align the new bearing squarely with the hub bore and using puller and bearing installer J 9481-A
with universal handle J 29886, drive the bearing
fully into the hub. The installer will apply force to the outer race of the bearing if used as shown.
3. Place bearing staking guide J 33019-1 and bearing staking pin J 33019 in the hub bore as
shown in the illustration. Shift the rotor and bearing
assembly on the J 21352-A support block to give full support of the hub under the staking pin
location. A heavy-duty rubber band may be used to hold the stake pin in the guide, and the stake
pin should be properly positioned in the guide after each impact on the pin.
4. Using care to prevent personal injury. strike the staking pin with a hammer until a metal stake,
similar to the original, is formed down to but not
touching the bearing. The stake metal should not contact the outer face of the bearing to prevent
the possibility of distorting the outer race. Stake three (3) places 120° apart as shown in the
illustration.
5. With the compressor mounted to the J 34992 holding fixture, position the rotor and bearing
assembly on the front head. 6. Position the J 33017 pulley rotor and bearing installer and J
33023-A puller pilot directly over the inner race of the bearing. 7. Position puller crossbar J 8433-1
on the puller pilot J 33023-A and assemble the two through bolts and washers through the puller
bar slots and
thread them into the J 33025 puller leg. The thread of the through bolts should engage the full
thickness of the puller legs. The two puller legs require two different bolt lengths.
8. Tighten the center screw in the J 8433-1 puller crossbar to force the pulley rotor and bearing
assembly onto the compressor front head. Should the
J 33017 pulley rotor and bearing installer slip off direct in-line contact with the inner face of the
bearing, loosen the J 8433-3 center forcing screw and realign the installer and pilot so that the J
33017 installer will properly clear the front head.
9. Install rotor and bearing assembly retainer ring, using snap ring pliers J 6083.
10. Reinstall clutch plate and hub assembly as described previously.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch Coil > Component
Information > Locations
Compressor Components - Disassembled View
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch Coil > Component
Information > Locations > Page 9612
Compressor Clutch Coil: Service and Repair
Clutch Coil Assembly Removal
Remove or Disconnect
1. Perform Steps 1 through 4 of Clutch Rotor and/or Bearings" removal procedure. Mark clutch coil
terminal location on compressor front head. 2. Install J 33023-A puller pilot on front head of
compressor. Also install J 8433-1 puller crossbar with J 33025 puller legs as shown in the
illustration.
3. Tighten J 8433-3 forcing screw against the puller pilot to remove the clutch coil.
Installing Clutch Coil Assembly
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch Coil > Component
Information > Locations > Page 9613
Staking Clutch Coil To Front Head
Details Of Stakes In Front Head For Clutch Coil
Install or Connect
1. Place the clutch coil assembly on the front head with the terminals positioned at the "marked"
location. 2. Place the J 33024 clutch coil installer over the internal opening of the clutch coil
housing and align installer with the compressor front head. 3. Center the J 8433-1 puller crossbar
in the countersunk center hole of the J 33024 clutch coil installer. Install the J 34992-2 through
bolts and
washers through the crossbar slots and thread them, into the holding fixture J 34992 to full fixture
thickness.
4. Turn the center forcing screw of the J 8433-1 puller crossbar to force the clutch coil onto the
front head. Be sure clutch coil and J 33024 installer
stay "in-line" during installation.
5. When coil is fully seated on the front head, use a 1/8" diameter drift punch and stake the front
head at three (3) places 120° apart, to ensure clutch
coil remaining in position. ^
Stake size should be only one half the area of the punch tip and only approximately 0.280-0.35mm
(0.010-0.015") deep.
6. Install rotor and bearing assembly and the clutch plate and hub assembly according as
described previously. 7. Install shaft nut.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch Hub > Component
Information > Specifications > Clutch Clearance
Compressor Clutch Hub: Specifications Clutch Clearance
Between clutch plate and rotor
................................................................................................................................................
0.40-0.50mm (0.015-0.020")
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch Hub > Component
Information > Specifications > Clutch Clearance > Page 9618
Compressor Clutch Hub: Specifications Shaft Nut
Shaft nut ..............................................................................................................................................
.................................................. 16.5 N.m (12 lbs.ft.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch Hub > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 9619
Compressor Components - Disassembled View
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch Hub > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 9620
Compressor Clutch Hub: Service and Repair
Removing Shaft Nut
Clutch Plate And Hub Assembly Removal
Remove or Disconnect
1. Clamp the holding fixture J 41790 in a vise and attach compressor to holding fixture with nuts
and bolts (2). 2. Keep the clutch hub and drive plate assembly from turning by using the clutch hub
holding tool J 33027-A. Remove the shaft nut using shaft nut
socket J 33022.
3. Thread the Clutch Plate and Hub Assembly Remover J 33013-B into the hub. Hold the body of
the remover with a wrench and turn the center
screw into the remover body to remove the clutch plate and hub assembly.
4. Remove the shaft key and retain for reassembly.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch Hub > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 9621
Shaft Key, Clutch Plate/Hub Installation
Installation Clutch Plate & Hub Assembly
Install or Connect
1. Install the shaft key into the hub key groove. Allow the key to project approximately 3.2 mm
(1/8") out of the keyway. The shaft key is curved
slightly to provide an interference fit in the hub key groove.
2. Be sure the frictional surface of the clutch plate and the clutch rotor are clean before installing
the clutch plate and hub assembly. 3. Align the shaft key with the shaft keyway and place the clutch
plate and the hub assembly onto the compressor shaft.
NOTICE: Do not drive or pound on the clutch hub or shaft. Internal damage to compressor may
result.
4. Remove the J 33013-B remover-installer center screw and reverse the body direction on the
center screw as shown in the illustration. 5. Install the clutch plate and hub installer J 33013-B with
bearing as shown in the illustration.
The body of the J 33013-B installer should be backed off sufficiently to allow the center screw to be
threaded onto the end of the compressor shaft.
6. Hold the center screw with a wrench. Tighten the hex portion of the installer J 33013-B body to
press the hub onto the shaft. Tighten the body
several turns, remove the installer and check to see that the shaft key is still in place in the keyway
before installing the clutch plate and hub assembly to its final position. The air gap between
frictional surfaces of the clutch plate and clutch rotor should be 0.40-0.50mm (0.015-0.020").
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch Hub > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 9622
^ If the center screw is threaded fully onto the end of the compressor shaft, or if the body of the
installer is held and the center screw is rotated, the key will assume the position as shown in the
illustration and will break the clutch hub.
7. Remove installer J 33013-B, check for proper positioning of the shaft key (even or slightly above
the clutch hub). Install the shaft nut. Hold the
clutch plate and hub assembly with clutch hub holding tool J 33027-A and using shaft nut socket J
33022, tighten the nut against the crankshaft shoulder to 16.5 N.m (12 lbs.ft.) torque, using a
torque wrench.
8. Spin the pulley rotor by hand to see that the rotor Is not rubbing the clutch drive plate.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Control Valve Assembly
> Component Information > Locations
V-5 Compressor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Control Valve Assembly
> Component Information > Locations > Page 9626
Compressor Control Valve Assembly: Service and Repair
V-5 Compressor
Tool Required:
J 39500 R-134a Refrigerant Recovery, Recycling, and Recharging (ACR4) System
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Recover refrigerant. Refer to Recovery. 3. Raise vehicle. 4. Control
valve retaining ring using internal snap ring pliers or J 5403. 5. Control Valve.
Install or Connect
1. Control Valve. 2. Control valve retaining ring using internal snap ring pliers or J 5403. 3. Lower
vehicle. 4. Evacuate and recharge refrigerant system. Refer to Evacuation. 5. Negative battery
cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Shaft Seal > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/C Compressor Seal Washer - Reference Chart
Compressor Shaft Seal: Technical Service Bulletins A/C Compressor Seal Washer - Reference
Chart
File In Section: 1 - HVAC
Bulletin No.: 63-12-15
Date: November, 1996
INFORMATION
Subject: Reference Chart for A/C Compressor Seal Washers
Models: 1997 and Prior Passenger Cars (Except Corvette and GEO) 1997 and Prior Light Duty
Trucks (Except Tracker)
GMSPO A/C compressors include a seal washer kit. These kits contain various color edge painted
washer seals and inserts in which only two (2) washers and possibly one (1) insert are used. It has
come to our attention that some packaging discrepancies were found and some of the seals cannot
be properly identified for installation.
These seals are very close in size and some of the seals were inadvertently edge painted the
wrong color or not painted.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Shaft Seal > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/C Compressor Seal Washer - Reference Chart > Page 9631
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Shaft Seal > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/C Compressor Seal Washer - Reference Chart > Page 9632
The chart shown will help to properly identify the seals. Use the chart by placing the seal over the
pictured seal to identity inside and outside diameters and thickness. Because these seals are very
similar in size, specifications are also listed in the chart.
Important:
If seals are damaged upon installation, obtain new seal kit. Seals will be available separately at a
later date.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Shaft Seal > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 9633
V-5 Compressor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Shaft Seal > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 9634
Compressor Shaft Seal: Service and Repair
Seal Leak Detection
A shaft seal should not be changed because of small amounts of oil found on an adjacent surface.
The seal is designed to leak some oil for lubrication purposes. A shaft seal should be changed only
when a large amount of sprayed oil is found, and only after actual refrigerant leakage is found by
using an approved leak detector. J 39400 or equivalent.
Removing Or Installing Shaft Seal Retaining Ring
Removing Shaft Seal
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Shaft Seal > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 9635
Removing Shaft Seal O-Ring
Remove or Disconnect
1. Recover refrigerant using J 39500-GM. 2. Loosen and reposition compressor in mounting
brackets. 3. Remove clutch plate and hub assembly from compressor as described in minor
repairs. 4. Remove the shaft seal retainer ring, using snap ring pliers J 5403. 5. Thoroughly clean
inside of compressor neck area surrounding the shaft. the exposed portion of the seal, the shaft
itself and O-ring groove. Any dirt
or foreign material getting into compressor may cause damage.
6. Fully engage the knurled tangs of seal remover-installer J 23128-A into the recessed portion of
the seal by turning the handle clockwise. Remove
the seal from the compressor with a rotary-pulling motion. Discard the seal. The handle should be
hand-tightened securely. Do not use a wrench or pliers.
7. Remove and discard the seal O-ring from the compressor neck using O-ring remover J 955301.
8. Recheck the shaft and inside of the compressor neck for dirt or foreign material and be sure
these areas are perfectly clean before installing new
parts.
Compressor Shaft Seal
Clean
1. Thoroughly clean seal O-ring groove in front head.
NOTICE: Seals should not be re-used. Always use a new specification service seal kit. Be sure that
the seal to be installed is not scratched or damaged in any way. Make sure that the seal is free of
lint and dirt that could damage the seal surface or prevent sealing.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Shaft Seal > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 9636
Installing Shaft Seal O-Ring
Lip Seal Installed On Seal Protector
Removing Or Installing Shaft Seal Retaining Ring
Install or Connect
1. Dip the new seal O-ring in clean 525 viscosity refrigerant oil and assemble onto O-ring installer
33011. "New". 2. Insert the O-ring installer J 33011 into the compressor neck until the installer
"bottoms." Lower the moveable slide of the O-ring installer to
release the O-ring into the seal O-ring lower groove. (The compressor neck top groove is for the
shaft seal retainer ring.) Rotate the installer to seat the O-ring and remove the installer.
3. Dip the new seal in clean 525 viscosity refrigerant oil and assemble seal to Seal Installer J
23128-A, by turning handle clockwise. The stamped
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Shaft Seal > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 9637
steel case side of the lip seal must be engaged with knurled tangs of installer so that flared-out side
of lip seal is facing and installed towards the compressor. In stall shaft seal protector J 34614 on
the lip seal. Place the seal protector J 34614 over end of compressor shaft, and slide the new seal
onto the shaft with a rotary motion until it stops. Take care not to dislodge the O-ring. Be sure the
seal makes good contact with the O-ring. Disengage the installer from the seal and remove the
installer J 23128-A and the shaft seal protector J 34614.
NOTICE: Handling and care of seal protector is important. If seal protector is nicked or the bottom
flared, the new seal may be damaged during installation.
4. Install the new seal retainer ring with its flat side against the seal, using snap-ring pliers J 5403.
Use the sleeve from O-ring installer J 33011 to
press In on the seal retainer ring so that it snaps into its groove.
5. To leak test, install compressor leak test fixture J 39893 on rear head of compressor and
connect gage charging lines using J 39500-GM
Refrigerant Recovery System or equivalent. Pressurize suction and high-side of compressor with
R-134a Refrigerant. Temporarily install the shaft nut and, with the compressor in horizontal
position. rotate the compressor shaft in normal direction of rotation several turns by hand. Leak test
the seal area and correct any leak found. Recover refrigerant. Remove shaft nut.
6. Remove any excess oil resulting from installing the new seal parts from the shaft and inside the
compressor neck. 7. Install the clutch plate and hub assembly as described in minor repair
procedures. 8. Reinstall the compressor, belt and tighten bracket. 9. Evacuate and charge the
refrigerant system using J 39500-GM.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor Clutch Relay > Component Information >
Locations
Compressor Clutch Relay: Locations
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Left Side Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications > Mechanical Specifications
Condenser HVAC: Mechanical Specifications
Condenser to Radiator Bolts ...............................................................................................................
...................................................... 10 N.m (89 lb in)
Negative Battery Cable Bolt ................................................................................................................
..................................................... 16 N.m (12 lb in)
Inlet Nut ...............................................................................................................................................
...................................................... 25 N.m (18 lb in)
Outlet Bolt ............................................................................................................................................
..................................................... 25 N.m (18 lb in)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications > Mechanical Specifications > Page 9645
Condenser HVAC: Capacity Specifications
The A/C system requires 240 ml (8 fl. oz.) of Polyalkylene Glycol (PAG) refrigerant oil.
NOTE: Always refer to underhood label as your primary specification resource.
Polyalkylene glycol (PAG) refrigerant oil must be added to the system when components are
replaced, as follows:
1. All Compressors (drain and measure the oil).
a Drain oil out both the suction and discharge ports of the replacement as well as the old
compressor.
b. Remove compressor crankcase drain bolt and drain oil from compressor crankcase.
- If less than 30 ml (1 oz.) is drained - add 60 ml (2 oz.) to the new compressor.
- If more than 30 ml (1 oz.) is drained - add same amount that was drained to the new compressor.
c. Install compressor crankcase drain bolt.
- Tighten compressor crankcase bolt to 20 N.m (15 lbs. ft.).
- Up to 120 ml (4 fluid ounces) of oil can collect in the crankcase. Therefore, it is important when
replacing a compressor that the oil in the old compressor crankcase be drained and measured
(discard the old oil after recording the amount).
2. Receiver Dehydrator
^ Add 105 ml (3.5 oz.) to receiver dehydrator.
3. Evaporator
^ Add 90 ml (3 oz.) oil.
4. Condenser
^ Add 30 ml (1 oz.) oil.
6. Refrigerant oil loss due to a large leak:
^ If the refrigerant charge is abruptly lost due to a large refrigerant leak, approximately 90 ml (3 oz.)
of refrigerant oil will be carried out of the system with the refrigerant. Any failure that causes an
abrupt refrigerant discharge will experience this oil loss. Failures that allow the refrigerant to seep
or bleed off over time do not experience this oil loss.
^ Upon replacement of a component which caused a large refrigerant leak, add 90 ml (3 oz.) of
new polyalkylene glycol (PAG) refrigerant oil plus: the required amount of oil for the particular
component (as outlined above).
NOTE: Add the oil directly to the replaced component if possible. If the oil cannot easily be added
to the replaced part, add the oil to the receiver dehydrator.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 9646
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 9647
Condenser HVAC: Description and Operation
Condenser
The condenser in front of the radiator is made up of coils which carry the refrigerant. Cooling fins
provide rapid transfer of heat. Air passing through the condenser cools the high-pressure,
high-temperature refrigerant vapor, causing it to condense into a liquid.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 9648
Condenser HVAC: Service and Repair
Condenser Mounting
Tool Required: ^
J 39500 R-134a Refrigerant Recovery, Recycling, and Recharging (ACR4) System
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Recover refrigerant. Refer to Recovery. 3. Drain cooling system. 4.
Radiator assembly. 5. Condenser from radiator.
Install or Connect
1. Condenser to radiator.
Tighten
^ Bolts to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
2. Radiator assembly to vehicle. 3. Refill cooling system. 4. Recharge A/C system. Refer to
Evacuation. 5. Negative battery cable.
Tighten
^ Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications
Control Assembly: Specifications
A/C and Heater Control and Retaining Screw
............................................................................................................................................ 2 N.m (18
lb in)
Negative Battery Cable Bolt ................................................................................................................
...................................................... 16 N.m (12 lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Locations > Component Locations
Below Center Of I/P
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Locations > Component Locations > Page 9654
Control Assembly: Connector Locations
Top RH Side Of I/P
Right Side Of Rear Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Locations > Page 9655
Control Assembly: Description and Operation
Recirculation/Fresh Air Control
The recirculation feature is driven by a switch on the control assembly. The switch controls a
solenoid which directs vacuum to the vacuum actuator that moves the air inlet valve.
Temperature Control
Temperature is controlled according to the position of the temperature knob on the control
assembly. An electric motor controls the temperature valve based on input from the temperature
knob. The valve controls air flow through the heater core as the temperature knob is moved
through its full travel. The position of the temperature valve is independent of mode selection. The
temperature motor attaches to the right side of the HVAC module.
Mode Control
The mode of operation of the control assembly is determined by the position of the mode knob. The
mode knob controls a vacuum switch that supplies engine vacuum to the appropriate vacuum
actuator(s) for the mode selected. Vacuum hoses are molded to a connector that is attached to the
vacuum switch.
Blower Speed Control
The blower speed is controlled by a knob which actuates an electrical switch. The blower circuit is
open in the OFF position. In all modes, the blower has 5 speeds to control the amount of air that
flows through the HVAC module.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Locations > Page 9656
Control Assembly: Service and Repair
Description
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Accessory trim plate. 3. Heater and A/C control retaining screws and
pull heater and A/C control away from the instrument panel. 4. Electrical and vacuum connections.
Install or Connect
1. Electrical and vacuum connections. 2. Heater and A/C control and retaining screws to instrument
panel.
Tighten
^ Screw to 2 N.m (18 lb. in.).
3. Accessory trim plate. 4. Negative battery cable.
Tighten
^ Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb. ft.).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Evaporator Core: > 99-01-39-004C > Jun > 09 > A/C - Musty Odors Emitted From
(HVAC) System
Evaporator Core: Customer Interest A/C - Musty Odors Emitted From (HVAC) System
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 99-01-39-004C
Date: June 12, 2009
Subject: Air Conditioning Odor (Install Evaporator Core Dryer Kit and Apply Cooling Coil Coating)
Models:
1993-2010 GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3 All
Equipped with Air Conditioning
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2009 and 2010 model years. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 99-01-39-004B (Section 01 - HVAC).
Condition
Some customers may comment about musty odors emitted from the Heating, Ventilation and Air
Conditioning (HVAC) system at vehicle start-up in hot, humid conditions.
Cause
This condition may be caused by condensate build-up on the evaporator core, which does not
evaporate by itself in high humidity conditions. The odor may be the result of microbial growth on
the evaporator core. When the blower motor fan is turned on, the microbial growth may release an
unpleasant musty odor into the passenger compartment.
There are several other possible sources of a musty odor in a vehicle. A common source is a water
leak into the interior of the vehicle or foreign material in the HVAC air distribution system. Follow
the procedures in SI for identifying and correcting water leaks and air inlet inspection.
The procedure contained in this bulletin is only applicable if the odor source has been determined
to be microbial growth on the evaporator core inside the HVAC module.
Correction
Many vehicles currently incorporate an afterblow function within the HVAC control module
software. The afterblow feature, when enabled, employs the HVAC blower fan to dry the
evaporator after vehicle shut down and this function will inhibit microbial growth. Technicians are to
confirm that the customer concern is evaporator core odor and that the vehicle has the imbedded
afterblow feature, as defined in the SI document for that specific vehicle model, model year and
specific HVAC option. Refer to SI for enabling the afterblow function. Vehicles being delivered in
areas prone to high humidity conditions may benefit from having the afterblow enabled calibration
installed prior to any customer comment.
Important If the vehicle is not factory equipped with the imbedded afterblow enable feature, it may
be added with the Electronic Evaporator Dryer Module Kit (P/N 12497910 or AC Delco 15-5876).
Important When installing the Electronic Evaporator Dryer Module, you MUST use the included
electrical splice connectors to ensure a proper splice. Complete detailed installation instructions
and self testing procedures are supplied with the kit. If necessary, the Electronic Evaporator Dryer
Module may be installed underhood if it is protected from extreme heat and water splash areas.
To immediately remove the evaporator core odor on all suspect vehicles, it is necessary to
eliminate the microbial growth and prevent its re-occurrence. To accomplish this, perform the
following procedure:
Vehicle and Applicator Tool Preparation
1. The evaporator core must be dry. This may be accomplished by disabling the compressor and
running the blower fan on the recirc heat setting for
an extended period of time.
Note Compressor engagement will cause the evaporator core to remain wet and will prevent full
adherence of the Coiling Coil Coating to the evaporator core surfaces.
2. Verify that the air conditioning drain hose is not clogged and place a drain pan beneath the
vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Evaporator Core: > 99-01-39-004C > Jun > 09 > A/C - Musty Odors Emitted From
(HVAC) System > Page 9665
3. Place a protective cover over the carpet below the evaporator core. 4. Remove the cabin air
filter, if equipped, and cover the opening prior to applying the Cooling Coil Coating, as the product
may clog the filter. If the
cabin air filter appears to have little or no remaining life, suggest a replacement to your customer.
5. If the HVAC module has a blower motor cooling tube, be careful NOT TO SPRAY THE
COOLING COIL COATING INTO THE
BLOWER MOTOR COOLING TUBE.
6. Attach the Flexible Applicator Pressure Spray Tool (J-43810-20A) to a compressed air line
operating at 586 kPa (85 psi) to 793 kPa (115 psi). 7. Shake the bottle of Cooling Coil Coating well.
Screw the bottle onto the cap on the applicator tool's pick-up tube.
Note The pick-up tube is designed for 120 ml (4 oz) and 240 ml (8 oz) bottles and should coil
slightly in the bottom of a 120 ml (4 oz) bottle.
8. Use one of the following three methods to apply the Cooling Coil Coating.
Important If the Pressure Applicator Spray Tool (J-43810-20A) is not available, the Cooling Coil
Coating is also available in an aerosol can (P/N 12377951 (in Canada, 10953503)).
Application Through Blower Motor Control Module Opening
- Remove the blower motor control module (blower motor resistor). Refer to the applicable
procedure in SI.
- Clean any debris or foreign material from inside the HVAC module and on the evaporator core
surface.
- Apply the Cooling Coil Coating directly to the evaporator core through the blower motor blower
motor control module (blower motor resistor) opening.
- Use the flexible wand to direct the Cooling Coil Coating over the entire evaporator core and
surrounding gasket surfaces.
- When the application is complete, install the blower motor blower motor control module (blower
motor control module).
Application Through Blower Motor Opening
- Remove the blower motor. Refer to the applicable blower motor removal procedure in SI.
- Clean any debris or foreign material from inside the HVAC module and on the evaporator core
surface.
- Apply the Cooling Coil Coating directly to the evaporator core through the blower motor opening.
- Use the flexible wand to direct the Cooling Coil Coating over the entire evaporator core and
surrounding gasket surfaces.
- When the application is complete, install the blower motor.
Application Through a Hole in the HVAC Module
- If neither of the two previous application methods are available, it may be necessary to drill a hole
in the HVAC module.
- Locate an area of the HVAC module between the blower motor and the evaporator core. Drill a 10
mm (3/8 in) hole in the HVAC module. Use caution to keep the drill clear of the evaporator core and
the blower motor fan.
- With the air distribution vents closed and the blower motor fan speed on HIGH, insert the
applicator tool into the hole and spray the Cooling Coil Coating into the airstream toward the
evaporator core.
- Use a GM approved RTV sealant to plug the hole in the HVAC module.
9. After the Cooling Coil Coating application is complete, start and run the vehicle for approximately
10 minutes, with the compressor disabled,
HVAC mode set to Recirculate/Max, heat set to full warm, blower motor fan speed on high, and
one window open approximately 12 mm (1/2 in). This cures the Cooling Coil Coating onto the
evaporator core surface.
10. While the engine is running, rinse the applicator tool with warm water to prolong the life of the
tool. Be sure to spray warm water through the
nozzle to rinse out any residual Cooling Coil Coating still in the capillary pick up tube, otherwise it
will dry and clog the applicator tool. Also remove the small green valve from the bottle cap and
rinse it thoroughly while rolling it between two fingers and then reinstall it. If this valve is clogged ,
the Cooling Coil Coating will not flow through the applicator tool.
11. Shut off the engine and enable the compressor again. 12. Verify proper HVAC system
operation. 13. Remove the protective cover from inside the vehicle. 14. Remove the drain pan from
underneath the vehicle. 15. Reinstall the cabin air filter if necessary.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Evaporator Core: > 99-01-39-004C > Jun > 09 > A/C - Musty Odors Emitted From
(HVAC) System > Page 9666
Parts Information
Important The Cooling Coil Coating listed below is the only GM approved product for use under
warranty as an evaporator core disinfectant and for the long term control of evaporator core
microbial growth.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Evaporator Core: > 99-01-39-004C > Jun > 09 > A/C - Musty Odors
Emitted From (HVAC) System
Evaporator Core: All Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Musty Odors Emitted From (HVAC) System
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 99-01-39-004C
Date: June 12, 2009
Subject: Air Conditioning Odor (Install Evaporator Core Dryer Kit and Apply Cooling Coil Coating)
Models:
1993-2010 GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3 All
Equipped with Air Conditioning
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2009 and 2010 model years. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 99-01-39-004B (Section 01 - HVAC).
Condition
Some customers may comment about musty odors emitted from the Heating, Ventilation and Air
Conditioning (HVAC) system at vehicle start-up in hot, humid conditions.
Cause
This condition may be caused by condensate build-up on the evaporator core, which does not
evaporate by itself in high humidity conditions. The odor may be the result of microbial growth on
the evaporator core. When the blower motor fan is turned on, the microbial growth may release an
unpleasant musty odor into the passenger compartment.
There are several other possible sources of a musty odor in a vehicle. A common source is a water
leak into the interior of the vehicle or foreign material in the HVAC air distribution system. Follow
the procedures in SI for identifying and correcting water leaks and air inlet inspection.
The procedure contained in this bulletin is only applicable if the odor source has been determined
to be microbial growth on the evaporator core inside the HVAC module.
Correction
Many vehicles currently incorporate an afterblow function within the HVAC control module
software. The afterblow feature, when enabled, employs the HVAC blower fan to dry the
evaporator after vehicle shut down and this function will inhibit microbial growth. Technicians are to
confirm that the customer concern is evaporator core odor and that the vehicle has the imbedded
afterblow feature, as defined in the SI document for that specific vehicle model, model year and
specific HVAC option. Refer to SI for enabling the afterblow function. Vehicles being delivered in
areas prone to high humidity conditions may benefit from having the afterblow enabled calibration
installed prior to any customer comment.
Important If the vehicle is not factory equipped with the imbedded afterblow enable feature, it may
be added with the Electronic Evaporator Dryer Module Kit (P/N 12497910 or AC Delco 15-5876).
Important When installing the Electronic Evaporator Dryer Module, you MUST use the included
electrical splice connectors to ensure a proper splice. Complete detailed installation instructions
and self testing procedures are supplied with the kit. If necessary, the Electronic Evaporator Dryer
Module may be installed underhood if it is protected from extreme heat and water splash areas.
To immediately remove the evaporator core odor on all suspect vehicles, it is necessary to
eliminate the microbial growth and prevent its re-occurrence. To accomplish this, perform the
following procedure:
Vehicle and Applicator Tool Preparation
1. The evaporator core must be dry. This may be accomplished by disabling the compressor and
running the blower fan on the recirc heat setting for
an extended period of time.
Note Compressor engagement will cause the evaporator core to remain wet and will prevent full
adherence of the Coiling Coil Coating to the evaporator core surfaces.
2. Verify that the air conditioning drain hose is not clogged and place a drain pan beneath the
vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Evaporator Core: > 99-01-39-004C > Jun > 09 > A/C - Musty Odors
Emitted From (HVAC) System > Page 9672
3. Place a protective cover over the carpet below the evaporator core. 4. Remove the cabin air
filter, if equipped, and cover the opening prior to applying the Cooling Coil Coating, as the product
may clog the filter. If the
cabin air filter appears to have little or no remaining life, suggest a replacement to your customer.
5. If the HVAC module has a blower motor cooling tube, be careful NOT TO SPRAY THE
COOLING COIL COATING INTO THE
BLOWER MOTOR COOLING TUBE.
6. Attach the Flexible Applicator Pressure Spray Tool (J-43810-20A) to a compressed air line
operating at 586 kPa (85 psi) to 793 kPa (115 psi). 7. Shake the bottle of Cooling Coil Coating well.
Screw the bottle onto the cap on the applicator tool's pick-up tube.
Note The pick-up tube is designed for 120 ml (4 oz) and 240 ml (8 oz) bottles and should coil
slightly in the bottom of a 120 ml (4 oz) bottle.
8. Use one of the following three methods to apply the Cooling Coil Coating.
Important If the Pressure Applicator Spray Tool (J-43810-20A) is not available, the Cooling Coil
Coating is also available in an aerosol can (P/N 12377951 (in Canada, 10953503)).
Application Through Blower Motor Control Module Opening
- Remove the blower motor control module (blower motor resistor). Refer to the applicable
procedure in SI.
- Clean any debris or foreign material from inside the HVAC module and on the evaporator core
surface.
- Apply the Cooling Coil Coating directly to the evaporator core through the blower motor blower
motor control module (blower motor resistor) opening.
- Use the flexible wand to direct the Cooling Coil Coating over the entire evaporator core and
surrounding gasket surfaces.
- When the application is complete, install the blower motor blower motor control module (blower
motor control module).
Application Through Blower Motor Opening
- Remove the blower motor. Refer to the applicable blower motor removal procedure in SI.
- Clean any debris or foreign material from inside the HVAC module and on the evaporator core
surface.
- Apply the Cooling Coil Coating directly to the evaporator core through the blower motor opening.
- Use the flexible wand to direct the Cooling Coil Coating over the entire evaporator core and
surrounding gasket surfaces.
- When the application is complete, install the blower motor.
Application Through a Hole in the HVAC Module
- If neither of the two previous application methods are available, it may be necessary to drill a hole
in the HVAC module.
- Locate an area of the HVAC module between the blower motor and the evaporator core. Drill a 10
mm (3/8 in) hole in the HVAC module. Use caution to keep the drill clear of the evaporator core and
the blower motor fan.
- With the air distribution vents closed and the blower motor fan speed on HIGH, insert the
applicator tool into the hole and spray the Cooling Coil Coating into the airstream toward the
evaporator core.
- Use a GM approved RTV sealant to plug the hole in the HVAC module.
9. After the Cooling Coil Coating application is complete, start and run the vehicle for approximately
10 minutes, with the compressor disabled,
HVAC mode set to Recirculate/Max, heat set to full warm, blower motor fan speed on high, and
one window open approximately 12 mm (1/2 in). This cures the Cooling Coil Coating onto the
evaporator core surface.
10. While the engine is running, rinse the applicator tool with warm water to prolong the life of the
tool. Be sure to spray warm water through the
nozzle to rinse out any residual Cooling Coil Coating still in the capillary pick up tube, otherwise it
will dry and clog the applicator tool. Also remove the small green valve from the bottle cap and
rinse it thoroughly while rolling it between two fingers and then reinstall it. If this valve is clogged ,
the Cooling Coil Coating will not flow through the applicator tool.
11. Shut off the engine and enable the compressor again. 12. Verify proper HVAC system
operation. 13. Remove the protective cover from inside the vehicle. 14. Remove the drain pan from
underneath the vehicle. 15. Reinstall the cabin air filter if necessary.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Evaporator Core: > 99-01-39-004C > Jun > 09 > A/C - Musty Odors
Emitted From (HVAC) System > Page 9673
Parts Information
Important The Cooling Coil Coating listed below is the only GM approved product for use under
warranty as an evaporator core disinfectant and for the long term control of evaporator core
microbial growth.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Specifications
> Mechanical Specifications
Evaporator Core: Mechanical Specifications
Evaporator Core Screws .....................................................................................................................
...................................................... 10 N.m (89 lb in) Heater Core Shroud Screws .............................
............................................................................................................................................. 1 N.m (9
lb in)
Heater Core Screws ............................................................................................................................
.......................................................... 1 N.m (9 lb in)
Heater Core Cover Screws ..................................................................................................................
.......................................................... 1 N.m (9 lb in)
Heater Outlet Screws ..........................................................................................................................
.......................................................... 1 N.m (9 lb in)
Evaporaor Seal Plate Nuts ..................................................................................................................
........................................................ 3 N.m (27 lb in)
Evaporator Block Fitting Nut ................................................................................................................
.................................................... 25 N.m (18 lb ft)
Negative Battery Cable Bolt ................................................................................................................
...................................................... 16 N.m (12 lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Specifications
> Mechanical Specifications > Page 9676
Evaporator Core: Capacity Specifications
The A/C system requires 240 ml (8 fl. oz.) of Polyalkylene Glycol (PAG) refrigerant oil.
NOTE: Always refer to underhood label as your primary specification resource.
Polyalkylene glycol (PAG) refrigerant oil must be added to the system when components are
replaced, as follows:
1. All Compressors (drain and measure the oil).
a Drain oil out both the suction and discharge ports of the replacement as well as the old
compressor.
b. Remove compressor crankcase drain bolt and drain oil from compressor crankcase.
- If less than 30 ml (1 oz.) is drained - add 60 ml (2 oz.) to the new compressor.
- If more than 30 ml (1 oz.) is drained - add same amount that was drained to the new compressor.
c. Install compressor crankcase drain bolt.
- Tighten compressor crankcase bolt to 20 N.m (15 lbs. ft.).
- Up to 120 ml (4 fluid ounces) of oil can collect in the crankcase. Therefore, it is important when
replacing a compressor that the oil in the old compressor crankcase be drained and measured
(discard the old oil after recording the amount).
2. Receiver Dehydrator
^ Add 105 ml (3.5 oz.) to receiver dehydrator.
3. Evaporator
^ Add 90 ml (3 oz.) oil.
4. Condenser
^ Add 30 ml (1 oz.) oil.
6. Refrigerant oil loss due to a large leak:
^ If the refrigerant charge is abruptly lost due to a large refrigerant leak, approximately 90 ml (3 oz.)
of refrigerant oil will be carried out of the system with the refrigerant. Any failure that causes an
abrupt refrigerant discharge will experience this oil loss. Failures that allow the refrigerant to seep
or bleed off over time do not experience this oil loss.
^ Upon replacement of a component which caused a large refrigerant leak, add 90 ml (3 oz.) of
new polyalkylene glycol (PAG) refrigerant oil plus: the required amount of oil for the particular
component (as outlined above).
NOTE: Add the oil directly to the replaced component if possible. If the oil cannot easily be added
to the replaced part, add the oil to the receiver dehydrator.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Specifications
> Page 9677
HVAC Module Cut Away View
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Specifications
> Page 9678
Evaporator Core: Description and Operation
The evaporator is a device which cools and dehumidifies the air before it enters the passenger
compartment. High-pressure liquid refrigerant flows through the expansion tube, becomes a
low-pressure liquid, and then enters the evaporator. The heat in the air passing through the
evaporator core is transferred to the cooler surface of the core, thereby cooling the air. As the
process of heat transfer from the air to the evaporator core surface is taking place, any moisture
(humidity) in the air condenses on the outside surface of the evaporator core and is drained off as
water. The evaporator is located inside the HVAC module at the front of dash.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Specifications
> Page 9679
Evaporator Core: Service and Repair
Heater And A/C Module (Part 1 0f 2)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Specifications
> Page 9680
HVAC Module Cut Away View
Tool Required:
J 39500 R-134a Refrigerant Recovery, Recycling, and Recharging (ACR4) System
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Recover refrigerant. Refer to Recovery. 3. Drain cooling system. 5.
Evaporator block fitting from the evaporator and discard sealing washers. 6. Evaporator seal plate
from front of dash. 7. Moisture drain tube from module. 8. instrument Panel and Console. 9. Heater
outlet.
10. Heater core cover
^ There is a mounting screw located in a recess in the center of the cover
11. Heater core mounting clamps and heater core. 12. Heater core shroud.
^ There is a mounting screw located at the middle of the front of dash.
13. Evaporator core.
Install or Connect
^ Refer to Refrigerant Oil Distribution if installing a new evaporator.
1. Evaporator core.
Tighten
^ Screws to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
2. Heater core shroud.
Tighten
^ Screws to 1 N.m (9 lb in).
3. Heater core mounting clamps and heater core.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Specifications
> Page 9681
Tighten
^ Screws to 1 N.m (9 lb in).
4. Heater core cover.
Tighten
^ Screws to 1 N.m (9 lb in).
5. Heater outlet.
Tighten
^ Screws to 1 N.m (9 lb in).
6. Instrument Panel and Console. 7. Moisture drain tube. 8. Evaporator seal plate.
Tighten
^ Nuts to 3 N.m (27 lb in).
9. Evaporator block fitting to the evaporator using new sealing washers.
Tighten
^ Nut to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
10. Heater hoses to heater core. 11. Refill cooling system. 12. Evacuate and recharge A/C system.
Refer to Evacuation. 13. Negative battery cable.
Tighten
^ Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Expansion Block/Orifice Tube > Component Information >
Specifications
Expansion Block/Orifice Tube: Specifications
Evaporator Tube to Condenser Bolt
..........................................................................................................................................................
25 N.m (18 lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Expansion Block/Orifice Tube > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 9685
Expansion Block/Orifice Tube: Locations
A/C System Plumbing
The expansion tube or orifice tube is located at the condenser to evaporator tube connection in the
evaporator tube.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Expansion Block/Orifice Tube > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 9686
Expansion Block/Orifice Tube: Description and Operation
Expansion Tube
The expansion tube is a plastic assembly containing a fixed diameter tube with a mesh filter screen
at either end. It is located in the evaporator inlet tube. The fixed diameter expansion tube creates a
restriction to the high-pressure liquid refrigerant in the liquid tube, metering the flow of refrigerant to
the evaporator as a low-pressure liquid. When the engine is turned OFF with the A/C system
operating, the refrigerant in the system will flow from the high-pressure side of the expansion tube
(orifice) to the low-pressure side until the pressure is equalized. This may be detected as a faint
sound of liquid flowing (hissing) for 30 to 60 seconds and is a normal condition.
When system diagnostics indicate a restricted expansion tube, it may not be necessary to replace
it. Metal chips, flakes or slivers found on the screen may be removed with compressed air and the
expansion tube may be reused if:
^ The plastic frame is not broken.
^ The brass expansion tube is not damaged or plugged.
^ The screen material is not torn.
^ The screen is not plugged with fine gritty material.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Expansion Block/Orifice Tube > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 9687
Expansion Block/Orifice Tube: Service and Repair
A/C System Plumbing
The expansion tube or orifice tube is located at the condenser to evaporator tube connection in the
evaporator tube.
Important
^ Different designs and colors or orifice tubes may have been used in past production vehicles.
When replacing an orifice tube, compare its DESIGN to the replacement part for correct orifice tube
selection. The different styles of orifice tubes ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE.
Tool Required: ^
J 39500 R-134a Refrigerant Recovery, Recycling, and Recharging (ACR4) System
Remove or Disconnect
1. Recover refrigerant. Refer to Recovery. 2. Raise vehicle. 3. Connection at condenser. Discard
O-ring seals. 4. Evaporator tube from condenser. 5. Carefully remove the expansion tube with
needle-nose pliers, or J 26549-E.
In the event that difficulty is encountered during the removal of a restricted or plugged expansion
tube (orifice tube), the following procedure is recommended:
Important
^ Remove as much of any impacted residue as possible.
^ Carefully apply heat with heat gun (hair dryer, epoxy dryer or equivalent) approximately 7 mm
(1/4 inch) from dimples on inlet pipe. Do not overheat pipe.
^ While applying heat, use expansion tube removal tools or J 26549-E to grip the expansion tube.
Use a turning motion along with a push-pull motion to loosen and remove to the impacted
expansion tube.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Expansion Block/Orifice Tube > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 9688
Install or Connect
1. New expansion tube. 2. Evaporator tube to condenser. 3. Using new O-ring seals, assemble
evaporator tube/condenser connection.
Tighten
^ Bolt to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
4. Lower vehicle. 5. Evacuate and charge the system. Refer to Evacuation.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Cooling System, A/C - Aluminum Heater Cores/Radiators
Heater Core: Technical Service Bulletins Cooling System, A/C - Aluminum Heater Cores/Radiators
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 05-06-02-001A
Date: July 16, 2008
Subject: Information On Aluminum Heater Core and/or Radiator Replacement
Models: 2005 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn) 2003-2005
HUMMER H2
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the Warranty Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 05-06-02-001 (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Important:
2004-05 Chevrolet Aveo (Pontiac Wave, Canada Only) does not use DEX-COOL(R). Refer to the
flushing procedure explained later in this bulletin.
The following information should be utilized when servicing aluminum heater core and/or radiators
on repeat visits. A replacement may be necessary because erosion, corrosion, or insufficient
inhibitor levels may cause damage to the heater core, radiator or water pump. A coolant check
should be performed whenever a heater core, radiator, or water pump is replaced. The following
procedures/ inspections should be done to verify proper coolant effectiveness.
Caution:
To avoid being burned, do not remove the radiator cap or surge tank cap while the engine is hot.
The cooling system will release scalding fluid and steam under pressure if the radiator cap or surge
tank cap is removed while the engine and radiator are still hot.
Important:
If the vehicle's coolant is low, drained out, or the customer has repeatedly added coolant or water
to the system, then the system should be completely flushed using the procedure explained later in
this bulletin.
Technician Diagnosis
^ Verify coolant concentration. A 50% coolant/water solution ensures proper freeze and corrosion
protection. Inhibitor levels cannot be easily measured in the field, but can be indirectly done by the
measurement of coolant concentration. This must be done by using a Refractometer J 23688
(Fahrenheit scale) or J 26568 (centigrade scale), or equivalent, coolant tester. The Refractometer
uses a minimal amount of coolant that can be taken from the coolant recovery reservoir, radiator or
the engine block. Inexpensive gravity float testers (floating balls) will not completely analyze the
coolant concentration fully and should not be used. The concentration levels should be between
50% and 65% coolant concentrate. This mixture will have a freeze point protection of -34 degrees
Fahrenheit (-37 degrees Celsius). If the concentration is below 50%, the cooling system must be
flushed.
^ Inspect the coolant flow restrictor if the vehicle is equipped with one. Refer to Service Information
(SI) and/or the appropriate Service Manual for component location and condition for operation.
^ Verify that no electrolysis is present in the cooling system. This electrolysis test can be performed
before or after the system has been repaired. Use a digital voltmeter set to 12 volts. Attach one test
lead to the negative battery post and insert the other test lead into the radiator coolant, making sure
the lead does not touch the filler neck or core. Any voltage reading over 0.3 volts indicates that
stray current is finding its way into the coolant. Electrolysis is often an intermittent condition that
occurs when a device or accessory that is mounted to the radiator is energized. This type of current
could be caused from a poorly grounded cooling fan or some other accessory and can be verified
by watching the volt meter and turning on and off various accessories or engage the starter motor.
Before using one of the following flush procedures, the coolant recovery reservoir must be
removed, drained, cleaned and reinstalled before refilling the system.
Notice:
^ Using coolant other than DEX‐COOL(R) may cause premature engine, heater core or
radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles
(50,000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your
warranty. Always use DEX‐COOL(R) (silicate free) coolant in your vehicle.
^ If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The
repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and
crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Cooling System, A/C - Aluminum Heater Cores/Radiators > Page 9693
Flushing Procedures using DEX-COOL(R)
Important:
The following procedure recommends refilling the system with DEX-COOL(R), P/N 12346290 (in
Canada, use P/N 10953464), GM specification 6277M. This coolant is orange in color and has a
service interval of 5 years or 240,000 km (150,000 mi). However, when used on vehicles built prior
to the introduction of DEX-COOL(R), maintenance intervals will remain the same as specified in the
Owner's Manual.
^ If available, use the approved cooling system flush and fill machine (available through the GM
Dealer Equipment Program) following the manufacturer's operating instructions.
^ If approved cooling system flush and fill machine is not available, drain the coolant and dispose of
properly following the draining procedures in the appropriate Service Manual. Refill the system
using clear, drinkable water and run the vehicle until the thermostat opens. Repeat and run the
vehicle three (3) times to totally remove the old coolant or until the drained coolant is almost clear.
Once the system is completely flushed, refill the cooling system to a 50%-60% concentration with
DEX‐COOL(R), P/N 12346290 (in Canada, use P/N 10953464), GM specification 6277M,
following the refill procedures in the appropriate Service Manual.
If a Service Manual is not available, fill half the capacity of the system with 100% DEX-COOL(R),
P/N 12346290 (in Canada, use P/N 10953464), GM specification 6277M. Then slowly add clear,
drinkable water (preferably distilled) to the system until the level of the coolant mixture has reached
the base of the radiator neck. Wait two (2) minutes and reverify the coolant level. If necessary, add
clean water to restore the coolant to the appropriate level.
Once the system is refilled, reverify the coolant concentration using a Refractometer J 23688
(Fahrenheit scale) or J 26568 (centigrade scale) coolant tester, or equivalent. The concentration
levels should be between 50% and 65%.
Flushing Procedures using Conventional Silicated (Green Colored) Coolant
Important:
2004-2005 Chevrolet Aveo (Pontiac Wave, Canada Only) does not use DEX‐COOL(R).
The Aveo and Wave are filled with conventional, silicated engine coolant that is blue in color.
Silicated coolants are typically green in color and are required to be drained, flushed and refilled
every 30,000 miles (48,000 km). The Aveo and Wave are to be serviced with conventional, silicated
coolant. Use P/N 12378560 (1 gal) (in Canada, use P/N 88862159 (1 L). Refer to the Owner's
Manual or Service Information (SI) for further information on OEM coolant.
Important:
Do not mix the OEM orange colored DEX-COOL(R) coolant with green colored coolant when
adding coolant to the system or when servicing the vehicle's cooling system. Mixing the orange and
green colored coolants will produce a brown coolant which may be a customer dissatisfier and will
not extend the service interval to that of DEX-COOL(R). Conventional silicated coolants offered by
GM Service and Parts Operations are green in color.
^ If available, use the approved cooling system flush and fill machine (available through the GM
Dealer Equipment Program) following the manufacturer's operating instructions.
^ If approved cooling systems flush and fill machine is not available, drain coolant and dispose of
properly following the draining procedures in appropriate Service Manual. Refill the system using
clear, drinkable water and run vehicle until thermostat opens. Repeat and run vehicle three (3)
times to totally remove old coolant or until drained coolant is almost clear. Once the system is
completely flushed, refill the cooling system to a 50%-60% concentration with a good quality
ethylene glycol base engine coolant, P/N 12378560, 1 gal (in Canada, use P/N 88862159 1 L),
conforming to GM specification 1825M, or recycled coolant conforming to GM specification 1825M,
following the refill procedures in the appropriate Service Manual.
If a Service Manual is not available, fill half the capacity of the system with 100% good quality
ethylene glycol base (green colored) engine coolant, P/N 12378560 1 gal., (in Canada, use P/N
88862159 1 L) conforming to GM specification 1825M. Then slowly add clear, drinkable water
(preferably distilled) to system until the level of the coolant mixture has reached the base of the
radiator neck. Wait two (2) minutes and recheck coolant level. If necessary, add clean water to
restore coolant to the appropriate level.
Once the system is refilled, recheck the coolant concentration using a Refractometer J 23688
(Fahrenheit scale) or J 26568 (centigrade scale) coolant tester, or equivalent. Concentration levels
should be between 50% and 65%.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Cooling System, A/C - Aluminum Heater Cores/Radiators > Page 9694
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 9695
Heater Core: Specifications
Heater Core and Heater Core Mounting Screws
............................................................................................................................................ 1 N.m (9
lb in)
Heater Core Cover Screws ..................................................................................................................
.......................................................... 1 N.m (9 lb in)
Heater Core Outlet Screws ..................................................................................................................
.......................................................... 1 N.m (9 lb in)
Negative Battery Cable Bolt ................................................................................................................
...................................................... 16 N.m (12 lb ft)
Seal Plate Nuts ....................................................................................................................................
......................................................... 3 N.m (27 lb in)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 9696
Heater Core: Locations
Heater And A/C Module (2 Of 2)
HVAC Module Cut Away View
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 9697
Heater Core: Service and Repair
Heater And A/C Module (2 Of 2)
HVAC Module Cut Away View
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 9698
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Drain cooling system. 3. Heater hoses from heater core and moisture
drain tube. 4. Instrument Panel and console. 5. Heater outlet. 6. Heater core cover.
^ There is a mounting screw located in a recess in the center of the cover
7. Heater core mounting clamps and heater core.
Install or Connect
1. Heater core and heater core mounting clamps.
Tighten
^ Screws to 1 Nm (9 lb in).
2. Heater core cover.
Tighten ^
Screws to 1 Nm (9 lb in).
3. Heater core outlet.
Tighten ^
Screws to 1 Nm (9 lb in).
4. Instrument Panel and Console. 5. Heater hoses to heater core and moisture drain tube. 6. Fill
cooling system. 7. Negative battery cable.
Tighten ^
Bolt to 16 Nm (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Hose > Component Information > Specifications >
Thermostat Bypass Pipe (Heater Outlet)
Heater Hose: Specifications Thermostat Bypass Pipe (Heater Outlet)
Retaining Nut .......................................................................................................................................
...................................................... 25 N.m (18 lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Hose > Component Information > Specifications >
Thermostat Bypass Pipe (Heater Outlet) > Page 9703
Heater Hose: Specifications Heater Inlet Pipe
Inlet Pipe Nut .......................................................................................................................................
...................................................... 25 N.m (18 lb ft.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Hose > Component Information > Locations > Heater
Hoses
Heater Hoses
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Hose > Component Information > Locations > Heater
Hoses > Page 9706
Heater Inlet Pipe
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Hose > Component Information > Locations > Heater
Hoses > Page 9707
Thermostat Bypass/Heater Outlet Pipe
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Hose > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Heater Hoses
Heater Hose: Service and Repair Heater Hoses
Heater Hoses
Check all heater hose routing for installation to avoid contact with any obstruction that could result
in a damaged hose. Some hoses are equipped with conduit in areas where rubbing may occur.
Always reinstall conduit and heat sleeving in the same location when replacing a hose. when
servicing a heater hose with a quick connect assembly, REPLACEMENT OF THE RETAINER IS
RECOMMENDED.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Drain engine coolant. 2. Heater hoses from heater pipes by squeezing tabs on quick connects.
3. Heater hoses from heater core.
Install or Connect
1. Heater hoses to heater core. 2. Heater hoses to heater pipe quick connects, pull to verify
connection. 3. Refill engine coolant.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Hose > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Heater Hoses > Page 9710
Heater Hose: Service and Repair Heater Inlet Pipe
Heater Inlet Pipe
Check all heater hose routing for installation to avoid contact with any obstruction that could result
in a damaged hose. Some hoses are equipped with conduit in areas where rubbing may occur.
Always reinstall conduit and heat sleeving in the same location when replacing a hose. when
servicing a heater hose with a quick connect assembly, REPLACEMENT OF THE RETAINER IS
RECOMMENDED.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Drain cooling system. 2. Heater inlet pipe retaining nut on cylinder head (Behind exhaust
crossover pipe). 3. Heater hose to heater inlet pipe by squeezing tabs on quick connect. 4. Heater
inlet pipe from engine fitting by squeezing tabs on quick connect. 5. Heater inlet pipe.
Install or Connect
1. Heater inlet pipe to engine, pull to verify connection. 2. Heater inlet pipe retaining nut.
Tighten
^ Nut to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
3. Heater hose to heater inlet pipe, pull to verify connection 4. Refill coolant system.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Hose > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Heater Hoses > Page 9711
Heater Hose: Service and Repair Quick Connect Retainer
The quick connect retainer is located on the end of the heater outlet pipe on 2.4L applications and
on both the inlet and outlet pipes on 3.1L applications. The quick connect retainer can be removed
from the heater pipe and replaced if necessary. WHENEVER THE HEATER HOSE QUICK
CONNECT IS DISCONNECTED, RETAINER REPLACEMENT IS RECOMMENDED.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Hose > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Heater Hoses > Page 9712
Heater Hose: Service and Repair Thermostat Bypass Pipe (Heater Outlet)
Thermostat Bypass/Heater Outlet Pipe
Check all heater hose routing for installation to avoid contact with any obstruction that could result
in a damaged hose. Some hoses are equipped with conduit in areas where rubbing may occur.
Always reinstall conduit and heat sleeving in the same location when replacing a hose. when
servicing a heater hose with a quick connect assembly, REPLACEMENT OF THE RETAINER IS
RECOMMENDED.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Drain cooling system. 2. Thermostat bypass hose from intake manifold pipe. 3. Retaining nuts on
exhaust manifold. 4. Air Inlet assembly. 5. Outlet pipe retaining nut on cylinder head (Behind
exhaust crossover pipe). 6. Heater hose from outlet pipe by squeezing tabs on quick connect. 7.
Throttle body hoses from outlet pipe. 8. Radiator hose from thermostat housing. 9. Outlet pipe
assembly.
Install or Connect
1. Outlet pipe assembly. 2. Radiator hose to thermostat housing. 3. Throttle body hoses to outlet
pipe 4. Outlet pipe retaining nut (Hand tighten at this point). 5. Thermostat bypass hose to intake
manifold pipe. 6. Tighten retaining nut.
Tighten
^ Nut to 25 Nm (18 lb ft)
7. Heater hose to outlet pipe. Pull to verify connection 8. Air Inlet assembly. 9. Fill cooling system
and check for leaks.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > High Pressure Safety Valve HVAC > Component
Information > Specifications
High Pressure Safety Valve HVAC: Specifications
Pressure relief valve ............................................................................................................................
................................................... 9.0 N.m (6.1 lbs.ft.).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > High Pressure Safety Valve HVAC > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 9716
V5 Compressor Rear Head Details
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > High Pressure Safety Valve HVAC > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Pressure Relief Valve
High Pressure Safety Valve HVAC: Description and Operation Pressure Relief Valve
The compressor is equipped with a pressure relief valve which is placed in the system as a safety
factor. Under certain conditions, the refrigerant on the discharge side may exceed the designed
operating pressure. To prevent system damage, the valve is designed to open automatically when
high side pressure exceeds a specified amount. Conditions that might cause this valve to open
(defective A/C pressure sensor, inoperative electric cooling fan, etc.) should be corrected, and the
refrigerant oil and refrigerant should be replaced as necessary.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > High Pressure Safety Valve HVAC > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Pressure Relief Valve > Page 9719
High Pressure Safety Valve HVAC: Description and Operation Refrigeration System
PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
The compressor is equipped with a pressure relief valve which is placed in the system as a safety
factor. Under certain conditions, the refrigerant on the discharge side may exceed the designed
operating pressure. To prevent system damage, the valve is designed to open automatically when
high side pressure exceeds a specified amount. Conditions that might cause this valve to open
(defective A/C pressure sensor, inoperative electric cooling fan, etc.) should be corrected, and the
refrigerant oil and refrigerant should be replaced as necessary.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > High Pressure Safety Valve HVAC > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Page 9720
High Pressure Safety Valve HVAC: Service and Repair
V5 Compressor Rear Head Details
Remove or Disconnect
1. Recover refrigerant using J 39500-GM. 2. Remove old pressure relief valve.
Install or Connect
1. Clean valve seat area on rear head. 2. Lubricate O-ring of new pressure relief valve and O-ring
assembly with new 525 viscosity refrigerant oil. Install new valve and torque in place, 9.0
N.m (6.1 lbs.ft.).
3. Evacuate and recharge the system. 4. Leak test system.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Specifications
> Compressor/Condenser Hose
Hose/Line HVAC: Specifications Compressor/Condenser Hose
Bolt ......................................................................................................................................................
....................................................... 33 N.m (24 lb ft) Nut ....................................................................
......................................................................................................................................... 24 N.m (18
lb ft) Nut ...............................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. 25 N.m (18 lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Specifications
> Compressor/Condenser Hose > Page 9725
Hose/Line HVAC: Specifications Evaporator Tube (Evaporator to Condenser)
Bolt ......................................................................................................................................................
....................................................... 25 N.m (18 lb ft) Nut ....................................................................
......................................................................................................................................... 25 N.m (18
lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Specifications
> Compressor/Condenser Hose > Page 9726
Hose/Line HVAC: Specifications Suction Tube (Evaporator to Accumulator)
Nut, Evap-accumulator ........................................................................................................................
.................................................... 23.5 N.m (17 lb ft) Nut, Block fitting ................................................
....................................................................................................................................... 25 N.m (18 lb
ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Locations >
Compressor/Condenser Hose
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Locations >
Compressor/Condenser Hose > Page 9729
A/C System Plumbing
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Locations >
Compressor/Condenser Hose > Page 9730
A/C System Plumbing
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Compressor/Condenser Hose
Hose/Line HVAC: Service and Repair Compressor/Condenser Hose
Compressor/Condenser Hose Assembly
A/C System Plumbing
Tool Required:
J 39500 R-134a Refrigerant Recovery, Recycling, and Recharging (ACR4) System
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Compressor/Condenser Hose > Page 9733
Remove or Disconnect
1. Recover refrigerant. Refer to Recovery. 2. Discharge tube from condenser and switch
connection on discharge tube. 3. Raise vehicle. 4. Right front tire/wheel and lower closeout panel.
5. Partially remove splash shield from fascia. 6. Suction hose (accumulator to compressor) at
accumulator. 7. Block fitting at the rear head of the compressor. 8. Compressor/condenser hose
assembly.
Important
^ Remove and discard all used O-ring seals and sealing washers.
Install or Connect
1. Compressor/condenser hose assembly. 2. Block fitting at the rear head of the compressor.
Tighten
^ Bolt to 33 N.m (24 lb ft).
3. Suction hose (accumulator to compressor) at accumulator.
Tighten
^ Nut to 24 N.m (18 lb ft).
4. Splash shield to fascia. 5. Right front tire/wheel and lower closeout panel. 6. Lower vehicle.
Tighten
^ Nut to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
7. Discharge tube to condenser, switch connection on discharge tube. 8. Evacuate and charge A/C
system. Refer to Evacuation. 9. Check system operation and leak test. Refer to Refrigerant Leak
Testing.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Compressor/Condenser Hose > Page 9734
Hose/Line HVAC: Service and Repair Evaporator Tube (Evaporator to Condenser)
A/C System Plumbing
Tool Required:
J 39500 R-134a Refrigerant Recovery, Recycling, and Recharging (ACR4) System
Remove or Disconnect
1. Recover refrigerant. Refer to Recovery. 2. Block fitting from the evaporator and discard the
O-ring seals. 3. Raise vehicle. 4. Connection at the condenser and discard the O-ring seal. 5. Right
front tire/wheel. 6. Splash shield from fascia. 7. Brake tube retainer from vehicle and position aside.
8. Evaporator tube from retaining clip on the body side rail. 9. Evaporator tube.
Install or Connect
1. Evaporator tube. 2. Evaporator tube to retaining clip on the body side rail 3. Brake tube retainer
to vehicle. 4. Splash shield. 5. Right front tire/wheel. 6. Connection at the condenser and O-ring
seal.
Tighten
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Compressor/Condenser Hose > Page 9735
^ Bolt to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
7. Lower vehicle. 8. Block fitting to the evaporator and O-ring seals.
Tighten
^ Nut to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
9. Evacuate and charge A/C system. Refer to Evacuation.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Compressor/Condenser Hose > Page 9736
Hose/Line HVAC: Service and Repair Suction Tube (Evaporator to Accumulator)
A/C System Plumbing
Tool Required:
J 39500 R-134a Refrigerant Recovery, Recycling, and Recharging (ACR4) System
Remove or Disconnect
1. Recover refrigerant. 2. Block fitting at the evaporator. 3. Raise vehicle. 4. Right front tire/wheel.
5. Partially remove splash shield from fascia. 6. Suction tube (evaporator to accumulator) at
accumulator. 7. Suction Tube.
Important
^ Remove and discard all used O-ring seals and sealing washers.
Install or Connect
1. Suction Tube. 2. Suction tube (evaporator to accumulator) to accumulator.
Tighten
^ Nut to 23.5 N.m (17 lb ft).
3. Splash shield to fascia.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Compressor/Condenser Hose > Page 9737
4. Right front tire/wheel. 5. Lower vehicle. 6. Block fitting to the evaporator.
Tighten
^ Nut to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
7. Evacuate and charge A/C system. Refer to Evacuation.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Housing Assembly HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications
Housing Assembly HVAC: Specifications
Blower Motor To Module Nuts .............................................................................................................
..................................................... 3 N.m (27 lb in)
Evaporator Seal Plate Nuts .................................................................................................................
........................................................ 3 N.m (27 lb in)
Block fitting nut ....................................................................................................................................
..................................................... 25 N.m (18 lb ft)
Wiring Harness to Module Nuts ...........................................................................................................
...................................................... 3 N.m (27 lb in) Heater Core Seal Plate Nuts ...............................
......................................................................................................................................... 3 N.m (27 lb
in)
Negative Battery Cable Bolt ................................................................................................................
...................................................... 16 N.m (12 lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Housing Assembly HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 9741
Housing Assembly HVAC: Locations
Rear Floor Heat Duct
HVAC Module To Dash Panel
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Housing Assembly HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > HVAC Module
Housing Assembly HVAC: Diagrams HVAC Module
Heater And A/C Module (Part 1 0f 2)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Housing Assembly HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > HVAC Module > Page 9744
Heater And A/C Module (2 Of 2)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Housing Assembly HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > HVAC Module > Page 9745
Heater And A/C Module (Part 1 0f 2)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Housing Assembly HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 9746
Housing Assembly HVAC: Service and Repair
HVAC Module To Dash Panel
Tool Required: ^
J 39500 R-134a Refrigerant Recovery, Recycling, and Recharging (ACR4) System
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Drain cooling system. 3. Recover refrigerant. Refer to Recovery. 4.
Heater hoses at the heater core. 5. Heater core seal plate from the front of dash. 6. Evaporator
drain tube from module. 7. Evaporator block fitting from evaporator. 8. Evaporator seal plate from
the front of dash. 9. Instrument Panel and Instrument Panel Tie Bar.
10. Flexible floor air duct from module. 11. Wiring harness from module. 12. Electrical connections
at blower motor and blower resistor. 13. Module from the vehicle.
Install or Connect
1. Module to vehicle.
Tighten
^ Nuts to 3 N.m (27 lb in).
2. Electrical connections at blower motor and blower resistor. 3. Wiring harness to module. 4.
Flexible floor air duct to module. 5. Instrument Panel Tie Bar and Instrument Panel. 6. Evaporator
seal plate to the front of dash.
Tighten
^ Nuts to 3 N.m (27 lb in).
7. Evaporator block fitting to evaporator.
Tighten
^ Block fitting nut to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
8. Evaporator drain tube to module. 9. Heater core seal plate to the front of dash.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Housing Assembly HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 9747
Tighten
^ Nuts to 3 N.m (27 lb in).
10. Heater hoses to the heater core. 11. Evacuate and recharge A/C system. Refer to Evacuation.
12. Refill cooling system. 13. Negative battery cable.
Tighten
^ Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment
Refrigerant: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment
Bulletin No.: 08-01-38-001
Date: January 25, 2008
INFORMATION
Subject: Information On New GE-48800 CoolTech Refrigerant Recovery/Recharge Equipment
Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Including Saturn) 2008 and
Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2005-2008 Saab 9-7X
Attention:
This bulletin is being issued to announce the release of GM approved Air Conditioning (A/C)
Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging Equipment that meets the new Society of Automotive
Engineers (SAE) J2788 Refrigerant Recovery Standards. The ACR2000 (J-43600) cannot be
manufactured in its current state after December 2007 and will be superseded by GE-48800.
The new J2788 standard does not require that GM Dealers replace their ACR2000 units.
ACR2000's currently in use are very capable of servicing today's refrigerant systems when used
correctly and can continue to be used. Details regarding the new SAE J2788 standard are outlined
in GM Bulletin 07-01-38-004.
Effective February 1 2008, new A/C Refrigerant Recovery/Recharging equipment (P/N GE-48800)
will be released as a required replacement for the previously essential ACR2000 (J-43600). This
equipment is SAE J2788 compliant and meets GM requirements for A/C Refrigerant System
Repairs on all General Motors vehicles, including Hybrid systems with Polyolester (POE)
refrigerant oil. This equipment will not be shipped as an essential tool to GM Dealerships.
In addition, this equipment is Hybrid compliant and designed to prevent oil cross contamination
when servicing Hybrid vehicles with Electric A/C Compressors that use POE refrigerant oil.
The ACR2000 (J-43600) will need to be retrofitted with a J-43600-50 (Hose - ACR2000 Oil Flush
Loop) to be able to perform Hybrid A/C service work. All Hybrid dealers will receive the J-43600-50,
with installation instructions, as a component of the Hybrid essential tool package. Dealerships that
do not sell Hybrids, but may need to service Hybrids, can obtain J-43600-50 from SPX Kent Moore.
Refer to GM Bulletin 08-01-39-001 for the ACR2000 Hose Flush procedure.
The High Voltage (HV) electric A/C compressor used on Two Mode Hybrid vehicles uses a
Polyolester (POE) refrigerant oil instead of a Polyalkylene Glycol (PAG) synthetic refrigerant oil.
This is due to the better electrical resistance of the POE oil and its ability to provide HV isolation.
Failure to flush the hoses before adding refrigerant to a Hybrid vehicle with an electric A/C
compressor may result in an unacceptable amount of PAG oil entering the refrigerant system. It
may cause a Battery Energy Control Module Hybrid Battery Voltage System Isolation Lost
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC P1AE7) to be set. Additionally, the A/C system warranty will be
voided.
Warranty Submission Requirements
The Electronically Generated Repair Data (snapshot summary) and printer functions have been
eliminated from the GE-48800. The VGA display and temperature probes were eliminated to
reduce equipment costs. As a result, effective immediately the 18 digit "Snapshot/Charge
Summary" code is no longer required for Air Conditioning (A/C) refrigerant system repairs that are
submitted for warranty reimbursement. The charge summary data from before and after system
repairs will continue to required, but documented on the repair order only. Both high and low
pressures and the recovery and charge amounts should be noted during the repair and entered on
the repair order. If using ACR2000 (J-43600), the "Snapshot/Charge Summary" printouts should
continue to be attached to the shops copy of the repair order.
The labor codes that are affected by this requirement are D3000 through D4500.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment > Page 9752
Refrigerant: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Contaminated R134A Refrigerant
Bulletin No.: 06-01-39-007
Date: July 25, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Contaminated R134a Refrigerant Found on Market for Automotive Air-Conditioning
Systems
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2007 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2007 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Attention:
This bulletin should be directed to the Service Manager as well as the Parts Manager.
Commercially Available Contaminated R134a Refrigerant
Impurities have been found in new commercially available containers of R134a. High levels of
contaminates may cause decreased performance, and be detrimental to some air-conditioning
components. Accompanying these contaminates has been high levels of moisture.
Tip:
Excessive moisture may cause system concerns such as orifice tube freeze-up and reduced
performance.
Industry Reaction: New Industry Purity Standards
Due to the potential availability of these lower quality refrigerants, the Society of Automotive
Engineers (SAE), and the Air Conditioning and Refrigeration Industry (ARI) are in the process of
instituting reliable standards that will be carried on the labels of future R134a refrigerant containers.
This identifying symbol will be your assurance of a product that conforms to the minimum standard
for OEM Automotive Air-Conditioning use.
How Can You Protect Yourself Today?
It is recommended to use GM or ACDelco(R) sourced refrigerants for all A/C repair work. These
refrigerants meet General Motors own internal standards for quality and purity, insuring that your
completed repairs are as good as the way it left the factory.
Parts Information
The part numbers shown are available through GMSPO or ACDelco(R). The nearest ACDelco(R)
distributor in your area can be found by calling 1-800-223-3526 (U.S. Only).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment > Page 9753
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment > Page 9754
Refrigerant: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recharge Equipment
File In Section: 01 - HVAC
Bulletin No.: 99-01-38-006A
Date: May, 2000
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Subject: J-43600 ACR 2000 Essential Refrigerant Recovery/Recharge Equipment
Models: 1993-2000 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks with R-134a Refrigerant
This bulletin is being revised to change the effective date and to update the text. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 99-01-38-006 (Section 01 - HVAC).
Effective June 1, 2000, the use of J-43600 ACR 2000 will be required on all repairs that require A/C
system recovery and are reimbursable by GM. Additionally, GM highly recommends that J-43600
ACR 2000 be used on all GM cars and trucks for customer paid A/C repairs.
Important:
Also effective June 1, 2000, the "Add" time for all air conditioning recovery is revised to 0.5 hours
for front systems and 0.7 hours for front/rear dual systems (RPO C69 or C34). After June 1, 2000,
all air conditioning claims submitted with the 0.9 hours "Add" time will be rejected for "labor hours
excessive".
After the completion of repairs (charging), the ACR 2000 will prompt the user to perform a snapshot
of the air conditioning system operating data. The snapshot includes:
^ Maximum high side pressure.
^ Minimum low side pressure.
^ Duct outlet temperatures (2).
^ Refrigerant purity information.
This information is captured on a paper printout and in a warranty code.
For all GM paid repairs, the paper printout should be attached to the shop copy of the repair order.
The warranty code must be submitted in the warranty claim information in the comments field. The
code enables the reporting of valuable information about the repair to GM for product quality
improvement. Claims submitted without this information may be subject to review and subsequent
debit.
The required use of J-43600 ACR 2000 raises the question of the acceptable uses for any existing
recovery/recycle equipment that GM dealers are currently using. GM recognizes that many of the
previously essential ACR4's are reaching the end of their useful life. There are several alternatives
for existing equipment that may be considered:
^ Use the existing equipment as customer paid recovery only equipment. Example: Collision repair
area.
^ Use the existing equipment as a scavenger unit for contaminated A/C systems.
^ Sell the existing units to repair facilities outside the GM dealer network.
^ Discontinue the use of the existing units if the repair/maintenance costs exceed the value of the
equipment.
^ Donate the existing equipment to local technical schools.
^ Dedicate the ACR4 to A/C system flushing, using the J-42939 Flush Adapter.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment > Page 9755
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Specifications >
Capacity Specifications
Refrigerant: Capacity Specifications
Refrigerant Capacity ............................................................................................................................
.................................................... 0.79 kg. (1.75 lbs.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Specifications >
Capacity Specifications > Page 9758
Refrigerant: Fluid Type Specifications
Refrigerant Type R-134a GM P/N 12345922 Or Equivalent
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Specifications >
Page 9759
Refrigerant: Description and Operation
The air conditioning system contains Refrigerant-134a (R-134a), which requires special handling to
avoid personal injury. Refer to Handling Refrigerant.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant Oil > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > A/C - New PAG Oil
Refrigerant Oil: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - New PAG Oil
Bulletin No.: 02-01-39-004B
Date: November 16, 2005
INFORMATION
Subject: New PAG Oil Released
Models: 2006 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2003-2006 HUMMER
H2 2006 HUMMER H3 2005-2006 Saab 9-7X
Built With R-134a Refrigeration System
All Air Conditioning Compressor Types (Excluding R4 and A6 Type Compressors)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to change the PAG oil part number used for R4 and A6 compressors
with R-134a refrigerant systems. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-01-39-004A
(Section 01 - HVAC).
All General Motors vehicles built with R-134a refrigerant systems shall now be serviced with GM
Universal PAG Oil (excluding vehicles equipped with an R4 or A6 compressor).
R4 and A6 compressors with R-134a refrigerant systems shall use PAG OIL, GM P/N 12356151
(A/C Delco part number 15-118) (in Canada, use P/N 10953486).
Important:
The PAG oil referenced in this bulletin is formulated with specific additive packages that meet
General Motors specifications and use of another oil may void the A/C systems warranty.
Use this new PAG oil when servicing the A/C system on the vehicles listed above. Oil packaged in
an 8 oz tube should be installed using A/C Oil Injector, J 45037. Refer to the HVAC Section of
Service Information for detailed information on Oil Balancing and Capacities.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant Oil > Component Information > Specifications >
Capacity Specifications
Refrigerant Oil: Capacity Specifications
The A/C system requires 240 ml (8 fl. oz.) of Polyalkylene Glycol (PAG) refrigerant oil.
NOTE: Always refer to underhood label as your primary specification resource.
Polyalkylene glycol (PAG) refrigerant oil must be added to the system when components are
replaced, as follows:
1. All Compressors (drain and measure the oil).
a Drain oil out both the suction and discharge ports of the replacement as well as the old
compressor.
b. Remove compressor crankcase drain bolt and drain oil from compressor crankcase.
- If less than 30 ml (1 oz.) is drained - add 60 ml (2 oz.) to the new compressor.
- If more than 30 ml (1 oz.) is drained - add same amount that was drained to the new compressor.
c. Install compressor crankcase drain bolt.
- Tighten compressor crankcase bolt to 20 N.m (15 lbs. ft.).
- Up to 120 ml (4 fluid ounces) of oil can collect in the crankcase. Therefore, it is important when
replacing a compressor that the oil in the old compressor crankcase be drained and measured
(discard the old oil after recording the amount).
2. Receiver Dehydrator
^ Add 105 ml (3.5 oz.) to receiver dehydrator.
3. Evaporator
^ Add 90 ml (3 oz.) oil.
4. Condenser
^ Add 30 ml (1 oz.) oil.
6. Refrigerant oil loss due to a large leak:
^ If the refrigerant charge is abruptly lost due to a large refrigerant leak, approximately 90 ml (3 oz.)
of refrigerant oil will be carried out of the system with the refrigerant. Any failure that causes an
abrupt refrigerant discharge will experience this oil loss. Failures that allow the refrigerant to seep
or bleed off over time do not experience this oil loss.
^ Upon replacement of a component which caused a large refrigerant leak, add 90 ml (3 oz.) of
new polyalkylene glycol (PAG) refrigerant oil plus: the required amount of oil for the particular
component (as outlined above).
NOTE: Add the oil directly to the replaced component if possible. If the oil cannot easily be added
to the replaced part, add the oil to the receiver dehydrator.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant Oil > Component Information > Specifications >
Capacity Specifications > Page 9766
Refrigerant Oil: Fluid Type Specifications
Refrigerant Oil Type Polyalkylene Glycol (PAG) Synthetic Refrigerant Lubricant
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component
Information > Specifications > A/C Pressure Transducer
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Specifications A/C Pressure Transducer
A/C Pressure Transducer ....................................................................................................................
......................................................... 5 N.m (44 lb in)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component
Information > Specifications > A/C Pressure Transducer > Page 9771
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Specifications Pressure Sensor
Pressure Sensor ..................................................................................................................................
......................................................... 5 N.m (44 lb in)
Pressure Senso Bolt ............................................................................................................................
....................................................... 16 N.m (12 lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 9772
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Locations
A/C System Plumbing
Front Of Engine Compartment
The A/C system has a pressure sensor mounted on the compressor/condenser hose assembly
near the condenser connection. The sensor performs both low and high pressure cutout functions
through an input to the PCM. No compressor mounted switches are used. The sensor is mounted
on a service
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 9773
fitting and can be replaced without discharging the A/C system.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 9774
A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 9775
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection
A scan tool displays A/C refrigerant pressure in psi. The sensors range and corresponding display
should be in the range 0 to 450 psi. A sensor or circuit problem should set DTC P0530. A poor
ground at the sensor will result in a fixed high pressure value on the scan tool display.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Pressure Sensor
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Service and Repair Pressure Sensor
A/C System Plumbing
The A/C system has a pressure sensor mounted on the compressor/condenser hose assembly
near the condenser connection. The sensor performs both low and high pressure cutout functions
through an input to the PCM. No compressor mounted switches are used. The sensor is mounted
on a service fitting and can be replaced without discharging the A/C system.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Electrical connection at the sensor 3. Pressure sensor and discard the
O-ring seal.
^ The sensor is mounted on a service fitting; do not discharge the system.
Install or Connect
1. New O-ring seal lubricated in clean 525 viscosity refrigerant oil. 2. Pressure sensor.
Tighten
^ Sensor to 5 N.m (44 lb in).
3. Electrical connection at the sensor. 4. Negative battery cable.
Tighten
^ Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Pressure Sensor > Page 9778
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Service and Repair Schrader Valve
A/C System Plumbing
The Schrader valve is located under the A/C pressure sensor on the compressor discharge tube.
Tools Required: ^
J 39500 R-134a Refrigerant Recovery, Recycling, and Recharging (ACR4) System
^ J 24182-2A Valve Core Remover/Installer
Remove or Disconnect
1. Recover refrigerant. Refer to Recovery. 2. Harness from pressure sensor. 3. Pressure sensor
from fitting. 4. Schrader valve from fitting.
Install or Connect
1. New valve to fitting. 2. Pressure sensor to fitting.
Tighten
^ Sensor to 5 N.m (44 lb in).
3. Harness to pressure sensor. 4. Recharge A/C system. Refer to Evacuation.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Blower Motor Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Blower Motor Relay: Locations
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Left Side Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Compressor Clutch Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Compressor Clutch Relay: Locations
Underhood Bussed Electrical Center
Left Side Of Engine Compartment
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Blower Motor Switch >
Component Information > Specifications
Blower Motor Switch: Specifications
Control Assembly and Retainer Screws to
.................................................................................................................................................. 2 N.m
(18 lb in)
Negative Battery Cable Bolt to ............................................................................................................
...................................................... 16 N.m (12 lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Blower Motor Switch >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 9790
Blower Motor Switch: Service and Repair
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Accessory trim plate. 3. Control assembly screws and pull control
assembly away from the instrument panel. 4. Electrical connection. 5. Blower switch retaining
screws and blower switch
Install or Connect
1. Blower switch and retaining screws.
Tighten
^ Screws, fully driven, seated and not stripped.
2. Electrical connection. 3. Control assembly and retaining screws.
Tighten
^ Screws to 2 N.m (18 lb in).
4. Accessory trim plate. 5. Negative battery cable.
Tighten
^ Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure
Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Specifications > A/C Pressure Transducer
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Specifications A/C Pressure Transducer
A/C Pressure Transducer ....................................................................................................................
......................................................... 5 N.m (44 lb in)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure
Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Specifications > A/C Pressure Transducer > Page 9795
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Specifications Pressure Sensor
Pressure Sensor ..................................................................................................................................
......................................................... 5 N.m (44 lb in)
Pressure Senso Bolt ............................................................................................................................
....................................................... 16 N.m (12 lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure
Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Specifications > Page 9796
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Locations
A/C System Plumbing
Front Of Engine Compartment
The A/C system has a pressure sensor mounted on the compressor/condenser hose assembly
near the condenser connection. The sensor performs both low and high pressure cutout functions
through an input to the PCM. No compressor mounted switches are used. The sensor is mounted
on a service
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure
Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Specifications > Page 9797
fitting and can be replaced without discharging the A/C system.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure
Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Specifications > Page 9798
A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure
Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Specifications > Page 9799
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection
A scan tool displays A/C refrigerant pressure in psi. The sensors range and corresponding display
should be in the range 0 to 450 psi. A sensor or circuit problem should set DTC P0530. A poor
ground at the sensor will result in a fixed high pressure value on the scan tool display.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure
Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Service and Repair > Pressure Sensor
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Service and Repair Pressure Sensor
A/C System Plumbing
The A/C system has a pressure sensor mounted on the compressor/condenser hose assembly
near the condenser connection. The sensor performs both low and high pressure cutout functions
through an input to the PCM. No compressor mounted switches are used. The sensor is mounted
on a service fitting and can be replaced without discharging the A/C system.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Electrical connection at the sensor 3. Pressure sensor and discard the
O-ring seal.
^ The sensor is mounted on a service fitting; do not discharge the system.
Install or Connect
1. New O-ring seal lubricated in clean 525 viscosity refrigerant oil. 2. Pressure sensor.
Tighten
^ Sensor to 5 N.m (44 lb in).
3. Electrical connection at the sensor. 4. Negative battery cable.
Tighten
^ Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure
Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Service and Repair > Pressure Sensor > Page 9802
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch: Service and Repair Schrader Valve
A/C System Plumbing
The Schrader valve is located under the A/C pressure sensor on the compressor discharge tube.
Tools Required: ^
J 39500 R-134a Refrigerant Recovery, Recycling, and Recharging (ACR4) System
^ J 24182-2A Valve Core Remover/Installer
Remove or Disconnect
1. Recover refrigerant. Refer to Recovery. 2. Harness from pressure sensor. 3. Pressure sensor
from fitting. 4. Schrader valve from fitting.
Install or Connect
1. New valve to fitting. 2. Pressure sensor to fitting.
Tighten
^ Sensor to 5 N.m (44 lb in).
3. Harness to pressure sensor. 4. Recharge A/C system. Refer to Evacuation.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Service Port HVAC > Component Information > Locations
A/C System Plumbing
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Vacuum Harness HVAC > Component Information >
Locations
Vacuum Harness HVAC: Locations
HVAC Vacuum Hoses And Actuators
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Vacuum Harness HVAC > Component Information >
Locations > Page 9809
Heater And A/C Module (Part 1 0f 2)
The vacuum hose harness is located under the instrument panel. One end of the harness attaches
to the HVAC control assembly mode switch with one 6-way molded connector. Another end of the
harness attaches to the HVAC control assembly recirculation solenoid with one 2-way molded
connector. The rest of the harness attaches to the vacuum actuators and to the vacuum tank.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Vacuum Harness HVAC > Component Information >
Locations > Page 9810
Vacuum Harness HVAC: Service and Repair
HVAC Vacuum Hoses And Actuators
The vacuum hose harness is located under the instrument panel. One end of the harness attaches
to the HVAC control assembly mode switch with one 6-way molded connector. Another end of the
harness attaches to the HVAC control assembly recirculation solenoid with one 2-way molded
connector. The rest of the harness attaches to the vacuum actuators and to the vacuum tank.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Instrument Panel. 3. Air distribution ducts as necessary. 4. Vacuum
hoses at the vacuum actuators, vacuum tank and HVAC control.
Install or Connect
1. Vacuum hoses to the vacuum actuators, vacuum tank and HVAC control. 2. Air distribution ducts
as necessary. 3. Instrument panel. 4. Negative battery cable.
Tighten
^ Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Vacuum Reservoir HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications
Vacuum Reservoir HVAC: Specifications
Screw ...................................................................................................................................................
.......................................................... 1 N.m (9 lb in) Negative Battery Cable Bolt ..............................
........................................................................................................................................ 16 N.m (12
lb ft)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Vacuum Reservoir HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 9814
Vacuum Reservoir HVAC: Locations
Heater And A/C Module (Part 1 0f 2)
The vacuum tank is located on top of the HVAC module.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Vacuum Reservoir HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 9815
Vacuum Reservoir HVAC: Service and Repair
Heater And A/C Module (Part 1 0f 2)
The vacuum tank is located on top of the HVAC module. During heavy acceleration the vacuum
supply from the intake manifold drops. Under load conditions a check valve in the vacuum tank
maintains vacuum so that it will be available for continuous use by the vacuum operated actuators.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Instrument Panel. 3. Air distribution ducts. 4. Vacuum hoses from
tank. 5. Vacuum tank from module.
Install or Connect
1. Vacuum tank. 2. Vacuum hoses to tank. 3. Air distribution ducts. 4. Instrument Panel. 5.
Negative battery cable.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Vacuum Reservoir HVAC > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 9816
Tighten
^ Bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Air Bag Disarming and Arming
Disabling the SIR System
Description
Description
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming > Page 9823
^ Turn the steering wheel to the straight ahead position.
^ Remove the key from the ignition switch.
1. The AIR BAG fuse from the I/P fuse block. 2. The I/P insulator left side. 3. The Connector
Position Assurance (CPA) and the driver yellow 2-way connector located at the base of the
steering column. 4. The I/P compartment door. 5. The Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and
the passenger yellow 2-way connector located behind the I/P compartment door.
IMPORTANT
With the AIR BAG fuse removed and the ignition switch in the RUN position, the AIR BAG warning
lamp Illuminates. This is normal operation and does not indicate a SIR system malfunction.
Enabling the SIR System
Description
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming > Page 9824
Description
INSTALL OR CONNECT
^ Remove the key from the ignition switch.
1. Passenger yellow 2-way connector and the CPA located behind the Instrument panel
compartment. 2. Instrument panel compartment. Refer to instrument panel compartment in
Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console. 3. Driver yellow 2-way connector and the CPA located at
the base of the steering column. 4. Instrument Cluster insulator (left side). Refer to instrument
panel in Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console. 5. The AIR BAG Fuse to the LH I/P Bussed
Electrical Center (LH I/P BEC). Refer to Power Distribution in Diagrams.
^ Staying well away from both air bags, turn the ignition switch to the RUN position. Verify that the
AIR BAG warning lamp flashes seven times and then stays off. If the AIR BAG warning lamp does
not operate as described, perform the SIR DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM CHECK. See: Testing and
Inspection
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming > Page 9825
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair General Service Precautions
CAUTION: When you are performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, you
must disable the SIR system. Use the following procedure to temporarily disable the I/P system.
Failure to follow the correct procedure could cause air bag deployment, personal injury, or
unnecessary SIR system repairs.
The inflatable restraint sensing and diagnostic module maintains a reserve energy supply. When
the vehicle power is insufficient to cause deployment of the air bags, the reserve energy supply
provides the deployment power. Deployment power is available for as much as 10 minutes after
disconnecting the vehicle power by any of the following methods:
^ You turn off the ignition switch.
^ You remove the fuse that provides power to the inflatable restraint sensing and diagnostic
module.
^ You disconnect the vehicle battery from the vehicle electrical system.
Disabling the SIR System prevents deploying of the air bags from the reserve energy supply
power. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. See: Air Bag Disarming and Arming/Disabling the SIR
System
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls: > NHTSA97V107000 > Jun > 97 > Recall 97V107000: Air Bag Module Inspection
Air Bag: Recalls Recall 97V107000: Air Bag Module Inspection
The fasteners that secure the passenger side air bag module to the instrument panel tie bar were
omitted. If the air bag deploys, the module could separate from the instrument panel striking and
injuring an occupant. Dealers will inspect the air bag module for the presence of the fasteners
and,if necessary, install any fasteners that may have been omitted.
Owner Notification: Owner notification will begin during July 1997.
Owners who take their vehicles to an authorized dealer on an agreed upon service date and do not
receive the free remedy within a reasonable time should contact Chevrolet at 1-800-222-1020. Also
contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Auto Safety Hotline at
1-800-424-9393.
1997 CHEVROLET MALIBU
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Bag: > NHTSA97V107000 > Jun > 97 > Recall 97V107000: Air
Bag Module Inspection
Air Bag: All Technical Service Bulletins Recall 97V107000: Air Bag Module Inspection
The fasteners that secure the passenger side air bag module to the instrument panel tie bar were
omitted. If the air bag deploys, the module could separate from the instrument panel striking and
injuring an occupant. Dealers will inspect the air bag module for the presence of the fasteners
and,if necessary, install any fasteners that may have been omitted.
Owner Notification: Owner notification will begin during July 1997.
Owners who take their vehicles to an authorized dealer on an agreed upon service date and do not
receive the free remedy within a reasonable time should contact Chevrolet at 1-800-222-1020. Also
contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Auto Safety Hotline at
1-800-424-9393.
1997 CHEVROLET MALIBU
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Bag: > 319004A > Sep > 96 > Air Bag - Module Shipping/Return
Procedure
Air Bag: All Technical Service Bulletins Air Bag - Module Shipping/Return Procedure
File In Section: 9 - Accessories
Bulletin No.: 31-90-04A
Date: September, 1996
Subject: Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) Module Shipping/Return Procedure
Models: 1993-97 Passenger Cars and Trucks - Equipped with Supplemental Inflatable Restraint
(SIR) Modules
EXCEPT THE MODELS AND YEARS AS LISTED
This bulletin is being revised to update the: models and years affected, the contact telephone
numbers and the hazardous classification rating. Various areas of the text and the attachments
have also been revised. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 319004 (Group Reference Accessories).
This bulletin outlines the return procedure for undeployed Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR)
modules. Undeployed SIR modules in all vehicles (except models indicated), removed for warranty
purposes, are to be returned to Delphi Interior and Lighting Systems, General Motors Corporation.
This bulletin outlines procedures that all dealers must follow for shipping undeployed airbag
modules. This bulletin is in effect and should be retained at all times at the dealership until
superseded by a subsequent bulletin.
This return program does NOT apply to dealers in Alaska, Hawaii, US Territories, and foreign
countries. SIR modules replaced outside the continental United States should be deployed and
disposed of following the procedure outlined in Corporate Bulletin Number 319003R. All other
modules (i.e., out of warranty or car scrapped) should be disposed of per Corporate Bulletin
Number 319003R.
Important:
If a vehicle is the subject of a Preliminary Investigation (GM-1241), DO NOT ALTER the SIR
system until cleared by the Zone Service Representative. An SIR module returned following a 1241
investigation must be clearly designated by:
1. Indicating on the REPAIR ORDER copy inside the box "SUBJECT TO 1241".
2. Indicating the VIN and vehicle owner on the REPAIR ORDER.
3. Sending photocopies of the REPAIR ORDER to:
a. The appropriate Zone service Representative
b. Cigna Company GM Central Claims Unit 485 W. Milwaukee Suite 690 Detroit, MI 48202
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Bag: > 319004A > Sep > 96 > Air Bag - Module Shipping/Return
Procedure > Page 9843
Mailing Address: P.O. Box 02489, Detroit, MI 48202
Questions related to handling of 1241 associated SIR modules may be answered by calling: Cigna
Company - GM Central Claims Unit, 1-800-888-1491.
The U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) Hazardous Materials Regulations classify SIR
modules as the following:
^ Proper Shipping Name: Air Bag Modules
^ Hazardous Class: Class 9 - Air Bag
Failure to comply with DOT regulations will result in civil penalties of up to $10,000 per violation or
criminal penalties of up to $25,000 per violation and imprisonment.
Return Procedure for Supplemental Inflatable Restraint Modules
(Undeployed Modules Only)
All undeployed SIR modules in all vehicles (except as indicated in the models section of this
bulletin), removed for warranty purposes, are to be returned to Delphi Interior and Lighting
Systems, General Motors. The following procedure should be followed when returning SIR
modules from any location within the continental United States.
1. Packaging Requirements
Return undeployed SIR modules in the same carton that was received with the new replacement
module. Do not use any carton that has been damaged to the extent that the product will not be
protected during the shipment. If you need a replacement carton, contact Delphi Interior and
Lighting Systems at (513) 356-2426. ENCLOSE A COPY OF THE REPAIR ORDER, detailing the
reason(s) for the SIR module replacement.
Close and secure the carton with packaging tape (transparent tape is recommended). All existing
labels and markings on the carton must be visible.
Important:
DO NOT staple container. DO NOT cover any portion of the black and white "Class 9" label or any
markings on the carton.
2. Package Labels and Markings
Add the names and addresses for the consignee and the consignor. The method of closure cannot
interfere with the labels or the markings on the package (see Attachments "A" - Driver Side, and
"D" - Passenger Side).
3. Shipping Paper (UPS Hazardous Material Label and Shipper's Certification)
The following items on the shipping papers must be completed with the same information as
enclosed with the replacement SIR module when received: proper shipping name, hazard class,
identification number, packaging group number, "EX" number, and emergency response telephone
number. The remaining information should be completed in accordance with Attachments "B" and
"E" (Driver Side) and "C" and "F" (Passenger Side).
A copy of the emergency response guidelines (see Attachment "G") is enclosed with the
replacement SIR module and must be attached to the shipping papers you complete for the SIR
module being shipped.
4. Transportation
All SIR modules are to be returned using United Parcel Service (UPS) which will require the sender
to pre-pay the freight charges. If difficulties arise, contact Delphi Interior and Lighting Systems,
General Motors at (513) 356-2426.
5. RETURN ALL SUPPLEMENTAL INFLATABLE RESTRAINT MODULES (EXCEPT FOR THOSE
MODELS LISTED IN THIS BULLETIN) TO THE FOLLOWING ADDRESS:
Delphi Interior and Light Systems 3249 McCall Avenue Dayton, OH 45417
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Bag: > 319004A > Sep > 96 > Air Bag - Module Shipping/Return
Procedure > Page 9844
ATTACHMENT A DRIVER AIRBAG
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Bag: > 319004A > Sep > 96 > Air Bag - Module Shipping/Return
Procedure > Page 9845
ATTACHMENT B DRIVER SIDE
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Bag: > 319004A > Sep > 96 > Air Bag - Module Shipping/Return
Procedure > Page 9846
ATTACHMENT C DRIVER SIDE
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Bag: > 319004A > Sep > 96 > Air Bag - Module Shipping/Return
Procedure > Page 9847
ATTACHMENT D PASSENGER AIRBAG
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Bag: > 319004A > Sep > 96 > Air Bag - Module Shipping/Return
Procedure > Page 9848
ATTACHMENT E PASSENGER SIDE
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Bag: > 319004A > Sep > 96 > Air Bag - Module Shipping/Return
Procedure > Page 9849
ATTACHMENT F PASSENGER SIDE
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Bag: > 319004A > Sep > 96 > Air Bag - Module Shipping/Return
Procedure > Page 9850
ATTACHMENT G
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Air Bag: > 319004A > Sep > 96 > Air Bag - Module Shipping/Return
Procedure
Air Bag: All Technical Service Bulletins Air Bag - Module Shipping/Return Procedure
File In Section: 9 - Accessories
Bulletin No.: 31-90-04A
Date: September, 1996
Subject: Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) Module Shipping/Return Procedure
Models: 1993-97 Passenger Cars and Trucks - Equipped with Supplemental Inflatable Restraint
(SIR) Modules
EXCEPT THE MODELS AND YEARS AS LISTED
This bulletin is being revised to update the: models and years affected, the contact telephone
numbers and the hazardous classification rating. Various areas of the text and the attachments
have also been revised. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 319004 (Group Reference Accessories).
This bulletin outlines the return procedure for undeployed Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR)
modules. Undeployed SIR modules in all vehicles (except models indicated), removed for warranty
purposes, are to be returned to Delphi Interior and Lighting Systems, General Motors Corporation.
This bulletin outlines procedures that all dealers must follow for shipping undeployed airbag
modules. This bulletin is in effect and should be retained at all times at the dealership until
superseded by a subsequent bulletin.
This return program does NOT apply to dealers in Alaska, Hawaii, US Territories, and foreign
countries. SIR modules replaced outside the continental United States should be deployed and
disposed of following the procedure outlined in Corporate Bulletin Number 319003R. All other
modules (i.e., out of warranty or car scrapped) should be disposed of per Corporate Bulletin
Number 319003R.
Important:
If a vehicle is the subject of a Preliminary Investigation (GM-1241), DO NOT ALTER the SIR
system until cleared by the Zone Service Representative. An SIR module returned following a 1241
investigation must be clearly designated by:
1. Indicating on the REPAIR ORDER copy inside the box "SUBJECT TO 1241".
2. Indicating the VIN and vehicle owner on the REPAIR ORDER.
3. Sending photocopies of the REPAIR ORDER to:
a. The appropriate Zone service Representative
b. Cigna Company GM Central Claims Unit 485 W. Milwaukee Suite 690 Detroit, MI 48202
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Air Bag: > 319004A > Sep > 96 > Air Bag - Module Shipping/Return
Procedure > Page 9856
Mailing Address: P.O. Box 02489, Detroit, MI 48202
Questions related to handling of 1241 associated SIR modules may be answered by calling: Cigna
Company - GM Central Claims Unit, 1-800-888-1491.
The U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) Hazardous Materials Regulations classify SIR
modules as the following:
^ Proper Shipping Name: Air Bag Modules
^ Hazardous Class: Class 9 - Air Bag
Failure to comply with DOT regulations will result in civil penalties of up to $10,000 per violation or
criminal penalties of up to $25,000 per violation and imprisonment.
Return Procedure for Supplemental Inflatable Restraint Modules
(Undeployed Modules Only)
All undeployed SIR modules in all vehicles (except as indicated in the models section of this
bulletin), removed for warranty purposes, are to be returned to Delphi Interior and Lighting
Systems, General Motors. The following procedure should be followed when returning SIR
modules from any location within the continental United States.
1. Packaging Requirements
Return undeployed SIR modules in the same carton that was received with the new replacement
module. Do not use any carton that has been damaged to the extent that the product will not be
protected during the shipment. If you need a replacement carton, contact Delphi Interior and
Lighting Systems at (513) 356-2426. ENCLOSE A COPY OF THE REPAIR ORDER, detailing the
reason(s) for the SIR module replacement.
Close and secure the carton with packaging tape (transparent tape is recommended). All existing
labels and markings on the carton must be visible.
Important:
DO NOT staple container. DO NOT cover any portion of the black and white "Class 9" label or any
markings on the carton.
2. Package Labels and Markings
Add the names and addresses for the consignee and the consignor. The method of closure cannot
interfere with the labels or the markings on the package (see Attachments "A" - Driver Side, and
"D" - Passenger Side).
3. Shipping Paper (UPS Hazardous Material Label and Shipper's Certification)
The following items on the shipping papers must be completed with the same information as
enclosed with the replacement SIR module when received: proper shipping name, hazard class,
identification number, packaging group number, "EX" number, and emergency response telephone
number. The remaining information should be completed in accordance with Attachments "B" and
"E" (Driver Side) and "C" and "F" (Passenger Side).
A copy of the emergency response guidelines (see Attachment "G") is enclosed with the
replacement SIR module and must be attached to the shipping papers you complete for the SIR
module being shipped.
4. Transportation
All SIR modules are to be returned using United Parcel Service (UPS) which will require the sender
to pre-pay the freight charges. If difficulties arise, contact Delphi Interior and Lighting Systems,
General Motors at (513) 356-2426.
5. RETURN ALL SUPPLEMENTAL INFLATABLE RESTRAINT MODULES (EXCEPT FOR THOSE
MODELS LISTED IN THIS BULLETIN) TO THE FOLLOWING ADDRESS:
Delphi Interior and Light Systems 3249 McCall Avenue Dayton, OH 45417
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Air Bag: > 319004A > Sep > 96 > Air Bag - Module Shipping/Return
Procedure > Page 9857
ATTACHMENT A DRIVER AIRBAG
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Air Bag: > 319004A > Sep > 96 > Air Bag - Module Shipping/Return
Procedure > Page 9858
ATTACHMENT B DRIVER SIDE
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Air Bag: > 319004A > Sep > 96 > Air Bag - Module Shipping/Return
Procedure > Page 9859
ATTACHMENT C DRIVER SIDE
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Air Bag: > 319004A > Sep > 96 > Air Bag - Module Shipping/Return
Procedure > Page 9860
ATTACHMENT D PASSENGER AIRBAG
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Air Bag: > 319004A > Sep > 96 > Air Bag - Module Shipping/Return
Procedure > Page 9861
ATTACHMENT E PASSENGER SIDE
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Air Bag: > 319004A > Sep > 96 > Air Bag - Module Shipping/Return
Procedure > Page 9862
ATTACHMENT F PASSENGER SIDE
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Air Bag: > 319004A > Sep > 96 > Air Bag - Module Shipping/Return
Procedure > Page 9863
ATTACHMENT G
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Page 9864
Air Bag: Specifications
Inflatable Restraint I/P Module Fasteners
............................................................................................................................................ 10.0 N.m
(89 lb in.)
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Page 9865
Steering Column
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Page 9866
Air Bag: Description and Operation
Description
Description
The inflatable modules consist of an inflatable bag and an inflatable. An inflatable consists of a
canister of gas-generating material and an initiating device. The initiator is part of the deployment
loop. When the vehicle is in a frontal crash of sufficient force, the inflatable restraint Sensing and
Diagnostic Module (SDM) causes current to flow through the deployment loops. Current passing
through the initiator ignites the material in the inflatable module. The gas produced from this
reaction rapidly inflates the air bag.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Page 9867
There is a shorting bar on the inflatable restraint steering wheel module side of the upper steering
column connector that connects the inflatable restraint steering wheel module coil to the inflatable
restraint steering wheel module. The shorting bar shorts across the inflatable restraint steering
wheel module circuits during the disconnection of the upper steering column connector. The
shorting of the inflatable restraint steering wheel module circuitry will help prevent unwanted
deployment of the air bag when servicing the inflatable restraint steering wheel module, the
steering column or other SIR system components.
There is a shorting bar on the inflatable restraint I/P module connector that connects to the SIR
wiring harness. The shorting bar shorts across the inflatable restraint I/P module circuits during the
disconnection of the inflatable restraint I/P module connector. The shorting of the inflatable restraint
I/P module circuitry will help prevent unwanted deployment of the air bag when servicing the
inflatable restraint I/P module, the instrument panel or other SIR system components.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Deployed Inflator Module
Air Bag: Service and Repair Deployed Inflator Module
Install or Connect
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Inflatable restraint I/P module to the crosscar beam. 2. Fasteners to the inflatable restraint I/P
module.
TIGHTEN
^ Fasteners to 10.0 N.m (89 lb. in.).
3. Electrical connector and the Connector Position Assurance (CPA). 4. Instrument panel
compartment. Refer to instrument panel compartment in Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning
Indicators.
^ Enable the SIR system. Refer to Enabling the SIR System. See: Air Bag(s) Arming and
Disarming/Service and Repair
Preliminary Precautions
After the inflator module has been deployed, the surface of the air bag may contain a powdery
residue. This powder consists primarily of cornstarch (used to lubricate the bag as it inflates) and
by-products of the chemical reaction. Sodium hydroxide dust (similar to lye soap) is produced as a
by-product of the deployment reaction. The sodium hydroxide then quickly reacts with atmospheric
moisture and is converted to sodium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate (baking soda). Therefore,
it is unlikely that sodium hydroxide will be present after deployment. As with many service
procedures, you should wear gloves and safety glasses.
Remove or Disconnect
Description
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
^ Disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. See: Air Bag(s) Arming and
Disarming/Service and Repair
1. Instrument panel compartment. Refer to instrument panel compartment in Instrument Panel,
Gauges and Warning Indicators. 2. Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and the electrical
connector. 3. Fasteners from the inflatable restraint I/P module.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Deployed Inflator Module > Page 9870
4. Inflatable restraint I/P module from the vehicle.
CAUTION: When you are carrying an undeployed inflator module:
^ Do not carry the inflator module by the wires or connector on the inflator module.
^ Make sure the bag opening points away from you.
When you are storing an undeployed inflator module, make sure the bag opening points away from
the surface on which the inflator module rests. When you are storing a steering column, do not
reset the column with the bag opening facing down and the column vertical. Provide free space for
the air bag to expand in case of an accidental deployment. Otherwise, personal injury may result.
IMPORTANT
^ The following procedures should be utilized in the event that inflatable restraint I/P module
mounting holes or fasteners are damaged to the extent that the inflatable restraint I/P module can
no longer be properly mounted.
1. Remove stripped fastener and discard. 2. Attach inflatable restraint I/P module with new fastener
GM P/N 25601790.
TIGHTEN
^ Fastener to 10.0 N.m (89 lb. in.).
Use hand tools only to achieve fastener torque. This will prevent stripping of the replacement
fastener.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Deployed Inflator Module > Page 9871
Air Bag: Service and Repair Deployment Procedures
Inside of Vehicle (Vehicle Scrapping Procedure)
Deploy the inflator modules inside the vehicle when destroying the vehicle. Deploy the inflator
modules inside the vehicle when salvaging the vehicle for component parts. This includes, but is
not limited to the following situations:
^ The vehicle has completed its useful life.
^ Irreparable damage occurs to the vehicle in a non-deployment type accident.
^ Irreparable damage occurs to the vehicle during theft.
^ You are salvaging the vehicle for component parts to use on a vehicle with a different Vehicle
Identification Number (VIN) as opposed to rebuilding as the same VIN. Never use SIR components
from another vehicle. This ensures SIR system integrity. Always use new SIR system components,
except when obtaining re-manufactured parts from an authorized General Motors dealer.
CAUTION: In order to prevent accidental deployment of the air bag which could cause personal
injury, do not dispose of an undeployed inflator module as normal shop waste. The undeployed
inflator module contains substances that could cause severe illness or personal injury if the sealed
container is damaged during disposal. Use the following deployment procedures to safely dispose
of an undeployed inflator module. Failure to dispose of an inflator module as instructed may be a
violation of federal, state, or local laws.
1. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK position. 2. Remove the key. 3. Put on safety glasses. 4.
Remove all loose objects from the front seats. 5. Disconnect the inflatable restraint steering wheel
module, yellow 2-way connector. This connector is located near the base of the steering column. 6.
Cut the inflatable restraint steering wheel module yellow 2-way harness connector from the vehicle.
Leave at least 160 mm (6 inches) of wire at the
connector (Figure 23).
7. Strip 13 mm (0.5 inch) of insulation from each wire lead of the connector (Figure 23). 8. Cut two
4.6 m (15 feet) deployment wires from 0.8 mm2 (18 gauge) or thicker multi-strand wire. Use these
wires to fabricate the driver
deployment harness.
9. Strip 13 mm (0.5 inch) of insulation from both ends of the wires cut in the previous step.
CAUTION: When you are deploying an inflator module for disposal, perform the deployment
procedures in the order listed:
^ Wear safety glasses throughout the procedures.
^ Make sure the area around the inflator module is clear of all people and loose or flammable
objects.
^ Short the deployment harness wires as instructed.
^ Connect the deployment harness to the inflator module before you connect it to the power
source.
^ Connect the deployment harness to the power source to immediately deploy the air bag.
Failure to follow the procedures in the order listed may result in personal injury.
Figure 23
Figure 24
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Deployed Inflator Module > Page 9872
Figure 25
Figure 26
10. Short the wires by twisting together one end from each (Figure 24). Deployment wires shall
remain shorted, and not connected to a power source
until you are ready to deploy the air bag.
11. Twist together one connector wire lead to one deployment wire (1). The connection must be
mechanically secure (Figure 25). 12. Bend flat the twisted connection that you made in the
previous step. Secure the connection by wrapping tightly with electrical tape (2). This will
also insulate the connection (Figure 25).
13. Twist together, bend and tape the remaining connector wire lead to the remaining deployment
wire (3) (Figure 25). 14. Connect the deployment harness to the inflatable restraint steering wheel
module, yellow 2-way connector at the base of the steering column. 15. Route the deployment
harness out the driver side of the vehicle (Figure 26).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Repair > Deployed Inflator Module > Page 9873
Figure 27
CAUTION: When you are deploying an inflator module for disposal, perform the deployment
procedures in the order listed:
^ Wear safety glasses throughout the procedures.
^ Make sure the area around the inflator module is clear of all people and loose or flammable
objects.
^ Short the deployment harness wires as instructed.
^ Connect the deployment harness to the inflator module before you connect it to the power
source.
^ Connect the deployment harness to the power source to immediately deploy the air bag.
Failure to follow the procedures in the order listed may result in personal injury.
16. Disconnect the inflatable restraint I/P module, yellow 2-way connector. This connector is
located behind the Instrument Cluster compartment door. 17. Cut the inflatable restraint I/P module
harness connector from the vehicle. Leave at least 160 mm (6 inches) of wire at the connector
(Figure 27). 18. Strip 13 mm (0.5 inch) of insulation from each wire lead of the connector (Figure
27). 19. Cut two 6.1 m (20 feet) deployment wires from 0.8 mm2 (18 gauge) or thicker multi-strand
wire. Use these wires to fabricate the passenger
deployment harness.
20. Strip 13 mm (0.5 inch) of insulation from both ends of the wires cut in the previous step. 21.
Short the wires by twisting together one end of each (Figure 28). The deployment wires shall
remain shorted and not connected to a power source
until you are ready to deploy the air bag.
Figure 28
CAUTION: When you are deploying an inflator module for disposal, perform the deployment
procedures in the order listed:
^ Wear safety glasses throughout the procedures.
^ Make sure the area around the inflator module is clear of all people and loose or flammable
objects.
^ Short the deployment harness wires as instructed.
^ Connect the deployment harness to the inflator module before you connect it to the power
source.
^ Connect the deployment harness to the power source to immediately deploy the air bag.
Failure to follow the procedures in the order listed may result in personal injury.
22. Twist together one connector wire lead to one deployment wire (1). The connection must be
mechanically secure (Figure 29). 23. Bend flat the twisted connection that you made in the
previous step. Secure the connection by wrapping tightly with electrical tape (2). This will
also insulate the connection (Figure 29).
24. Twist together, bend and tape the remaining connector wire lead to the remaining deployment
wire (3) (Figure 29). 25. Connect the deployment harness to the inflatable restraint I/P module,
yellow 2-way connector. 26. Route the deployment harness out the passenger side of the vehicle
(Figure 30). 27. Be sure to clear the inside of the vehicle and the area surrounding the vehicle of
any people. Clear the vehicle of all loose or flammable objects. 28. Stretch the driver and
passenger deployment harnesses to their full length (Figures 26 and 30). 29. Completely cover
windshield area and front door window openings with a drop cloth, blanket or similar item. This
reduces the possibility of injury
due to possible fragmentation of the vehicle's glass or interior.
30. Notify everyone in the immediate area that you intend to deploy the air bags. The deployment
will be very loud. This may startle any uninformed
people in the area.
31. Place a power source near the shorted end of the SIR Deployment Harness. Use a vehicle
battery when available, but always use a power source
that complies to the following: ^
12 volts minimum.
^ 2 amps minimum.
32. Separate the two ends of the driver deployment harness wires (Figure 31).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Repair > Deployed Inflator Module > Page 9874
CAUTION: When you are deploying an inflator module for disposal, perform the deployment
procedures in the order listed:
^ Wear safety glasses throughout the procedures.
^ Make sure the area around the inflator module is clear of all people and loose or flammable
objects.
^ Short the deployment harness wires as instructed.
^ Connect the deployment harness to the inflator module before you connect it to the power
source.
^ Connect the deployment harness to the power source to immediately deploy the air bag.
Failure to follow the procedures in the order listed may result in personal injury.
NOTICE: The rapid gas expansion involved with deploying an air bag will be very loud. Notify all
people in the immediate area that you intend to deploy the inflator modules.
Figure 29
Figure 30
33. Connect the driver deployment harness wires to the power source to immediately deploy the
inflatable restraint steering wheel module (Figure 31).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Repair > Deployed Inflator Module > Page 9875
Figure 31
Figure 32
34. Disconnect the deployment harness wires from the power source. 35. Separate the two ends of
the passenger deployment harness wires (Figure 32). 36. Connect the passenger deployment
harness wires to a power source. This will immediately deploy the inflatable restraint I/P module
(Figure 32).
After the inflator module has deployed, the surface of the air bag may contain a powdery residue.
This powder consists primarily of cornstarch (used to lubricate the bag as it inflates), and
by-products of the chemical reaction. The deployment reaction produces sodium hydroxide dust
(similar to lye soap). The sodium hydroxide quickly reacts with the atmospheric moisture. This
atmospheric moisture converts the sodium hydroxide into sodium carbonate and sodium
bicarbonate (baking soda). Therefore, you will probably find no sodium hydroxide present after the
deployment. As a precaution gloves and safety glasses are recommended. Gloves and safety
glasses help to prevent possible irritation of the skin or eyes.
CAUTION: Immediately following the deployment of an air bag, the metal surfaces of the inflator
module are very hot. Do not place the deployed inflator module near any flammable objects. Walt
for about ten minutes before touching any metal surface of the inflator module. Disregarding these
precautions may cause fire or personal injury.
The metal canister and the area surrounding the inflator module are very hot. Do not touch the
metal areas of the inflator module for about ten minutes after deployment. If you must move the
deployed inflator module, use caution. Always wear gloves and handle the inflator module by the
air bag or the vinyl trim (Figure 22).
37. Disconnect the deployment harness wires from the power source. 38. Short the driver
deployment harness wires by twisting together one end from each of the wires together. Repeat
this procedure for the passenger
deployment harness.
39. Carefully remove the drop cloth from the vehicle. 40. Disconnect the driver deployment harness
and the passenger deployment harness from the vehicle. 41. Discard both deployment harnesses.
42. After deploying both air bags, you may scrap the vehicle in the same manner as a non-SIR
equipped vehicle. 43. In the unlikely event that either or both of the inflator modules did not deploy
after following these procedures, proceed immediately with Steps 44
through 46.
44. Remove the undeployed inflator module(s) from the vehicle. See:
CAUTION: When you are carrying an undeployed inflator module:
^ Do not carry the inflator module by the wires or connector on the inflator module.
^ Make sure the bag opening points away from you.
When you are storing an undeployed inflator module, make sure the bag opening points away from
the surface on which the inflator module rests. When you are storing a steering column, do not rest
the column with the bag opening facing down and the column vertical. Provide free space for the
air bag to expand in case of an accidental deployment. Otherwise, personal injury may result.
45. Temporarily store the inflator module with its vinyl trim cover facing up. 46. Call the Technical
Assistance group for further assistance.
Steering Wheel Module
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Repair > Deployed Inflator Module > Page 9876
TOOL REQUIRED:
J 38826 SIR Deployment Harness
Deploy the inflator module(s) outside of the vehicle when you intend to return the vehicle to service.
Situations that require deploying the inflator module outside the vehicle include the following:
^ Using the SIR Diagnostics, you determine the inflator module does not function correctly.
^ The inflator module is cosmetically damaged such as a scratch or rip in the cover.
Figure 15
Figure 16
Figure 17
^ The inflator module pigtail (if equipped) is damaged.
^ The inflator module connector is damaged.
^ An inflator module connector terminal is damaged.
Deployment and disposal of a malfunctioning inflator module is subject to any required retention
period.
You must follow these inflator module deployment procedures exactly. Always wear safety glasses
during this deployment procedure. Do not remove your safety glasses until the deployed inflator
module is scrapped or shipped. Before performing the deployment procedures you should be
familiar with servicing the SIR system and with proper handling of the inflator module. Procedures
should be read fully before they are performed. The following procedures requires the use of:
^ J 38826 SIR Deployment Harness.
^ The appropriate pigtail adapter.
Do not attempt the procedure without J 38826 SIR Deployment Harness and the adapter.
CAUTION: When you are deploying an inflator module for disposal, perform the deployment
procedures in the order listed:
^ Wear safety glasses throughout the procedures.
^ Clear a space on the ground about 1.85 meters (6 feet) in diameter where the inflator module will
be deployed.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Repair > Deployed Inflator Module > Page 9877
^ Make sure the area around the inflator module is clear of all people and loose or flammable
objects.
^ Short the deployment harness wires as instructed.
^ Connect the deployment harness to the inflator module before you connect it to the power
source.
^ Connect the deployment harness to the power source to immediately deploy the air bag.
Failure to follow the procedures in the order listed may result in personal injury.
IMPORTANT
^ This information applies only to inflatable restraint steering wheel modules. Refer to Deployment
Outside of the Vehicle (Inflatable Restraint I/P Module) for information on inflatable restraint I/P
module scrapping. See: Outside of Vehicle/Instrument Panel Module
1. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK position. 2. Remove the key. 3. Put on safety glasses.
Figure 16
Figure 17
4. Inspect J 38826 SIR Deployment Harness and appropriate pigtail adapter for damage.
^ If damage occurs to the SIR Deployment Harness or the pigtail adapter, then obtain a
replacement.
5. Short the two SIR Deployment Harness leads together by fully seating one banana plug into the
other.
^ Keep the SIR Deployment Harness (1) shorted until the air bag is to be deployed (Figure 15).
^ Do not connect the SIR Deployment Harness to a power source until the air bag is to be deployed
(Figure 15).
6. Connect the appropriate pigtail adapter (2) to the SIR Deployment Harness (Figure 15). 7.
Remove the inflatable restraint steering wheel module from the vehicle. 8. Remove the horn lead
from the back of the inflatable restraint steering wheel module, if applicable. 9. Remove the
redundant steering wheel control lead(s) from the back of the inflatable restraint steering wheel
module, if applicable.
10. Remove all horn buttons and steering wheel control buttons from the inflatable restraint
steering wheel module, if applicable.
CAUTION: When you are carrying an undeployed inflator module:
^ Do not carry the inflator module by the wires or connector on the inflator module.
^ Make sure the bag opening points away from you.
When you are storing an undeployed inflator module, make sure the bag opening points away from
the surface on which the inflator module rests. When you are storing a steering column, do not rest
the column with the bag opening facing down and the column vertical. Provide free space for the
air bag to expand in case of an accidental deployment. Otherwise, personal injury may result.
11. Place the inflatable restraint steering wheel module with its vinyl trim cover facing up and away
from the surface on a work bench or another
surface (Figure 16).
12. Place the inflatable restraint steering wheel module away from all loose or flammable objects.
13. Clear a space on the ground about 1.85 m (6 ft.) in diameter where you intend to deploy the
inflatable restraint steering wheel module. If possible,
use a paved, outdoor location free of activity. Otherwise, use a space free of activity on the shop
floor. Make sure you have sufficient ventilation.
14. Make sure no loose or flammable objects are within the deployment area (Figure 17). 15. Place
the inflatable restraint steering wheel module in the space just cleared, with its vinyl trim cover
facing up (Figure 17). 16. Extend the SIR Deployment Harness and the pigtail adapter to full length
from the inflatable restraint steering wheel module (Figure 18).
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Repair > Deployed Inflator Module > Page 9878
17. Place a power source near the shorted end of the SIR Deployment Harness. Use a vehicle
battery when available, but always use a power source
that complies to the following: ^
12 volts minimum.
^ 2 amps minimum.
IMPORTANT
^ Firmly seat the pigtail adapter into the inflatable restraint steering wheel module connector.
Failure to fully seat the connectors may result in nondeployment of the inflator module.
Figure 18
Figure 19
18. Connect the inflatable restraint steering wheel module (1) to the pigtail adapter (2) on the SIR
Deployment Harness (3) (Figure 19).
^ The deployment harness shall remain shorted until you are ready to deploy the air bag.
^ Do not connect the SIR Deployment Harness to a power source until you are ready to deploy the
air bag.
^ The inflator module will immediately deploy when you connect the power source.
19. Clear the area of all people and loose or flammable objects (Figure 17). 20. Make sure that you
place the inflatable restraint steering wheel module with its vinyl trim cover facing up.
Figure 20
21. Notify all people in the immediate area before you deploy the inflatable restraint steering wheel
module.
^ An inflatable restraint steering wheel module deployment is very loud.
^ The deployment may startle any uninformed people in the area.
22. Separate the two banana plugs on the SIR Deployment Harness (Figure 20).
CAUTION: When you are deploying an inflator module for disposal, perform the deployment
procedures in the order listed:
^ Wear safety glasses throughout the procedures.
^ Make sure the area around the inflator module is clear of all people and loose or flammable
objects.
^ Short the deployment harness wires as instructed.
^ Connect the deployment harness to the inflator module before you connect it to the power
source.
^ Connect the deployment harness to the power source to immediately deploy the air bag.
Failure to follow the procedures in the order listed may result in personal injury.
NOTICE: When the air bag deploys, the inflatable restraint steering wheel module may jump about
30 cm (1 foot) vertically. This is a normal reaction of the inflatable restraint steering wheel module
to the force of the rapid gas expansion inside the air bag.
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Repair > Deployed Inflator Module > Page 9879
Figure 21
NOTICE: The rapid gas expansion involved with deploying an air bag is very loud. Notify all people
in the immediate area that you intend to deploy the inflatable restraint steering wheel module.
23. Connect the SIR Deployment Harness wires to the power source. This immediately deploys the
inflatable restraint steering wheel module (Figure
21).
24. Use a vehicle battery when available, but always use a power source that complies to the
following:
^ 12 volts minimum.
^ 2 amps minimum.
25. Disconnect the SIR Deployment Harness from the power source. 26. Short the SIR Deployment
Harness leads together by fully seating one banana plug into the other (Figure 15). 27. In the
unlikely event that the inflatable restraint steering wheel module did not deploy after following these
procedures, proceed immediately with
Steps 33 through 36. If the inflatable restraint steering wheel module did deploy, proceed with
Steps 28 through 32.
28. Put on a pair of shop gloves to protect your hands from possible heat and irritation when
handling the deployed inflatable restraint steering wheel
module (Figure 22).
After the inflatable restraint steering wheel module has deployed, the surface of the air bag may
contain a powdery residue. This powder consists primarily of cornstarch (used to lubricate the bag
as it inflates), and by-products of the chemical reaction. The deployment reaction produces sodium
hydroxide dust (similar to lye soap). The sodium hydroxide quickly reacts with the atmospheric
moisture. This atmospheric moisture converts the sodium hydroxide into sodium carbonate and
sodium bicarbonate (baking soda). Therefore, you will probably find no sodium hydroxide present
after the deployment. As a precaution gloves and safety glasses are recommended. Gloves and
safety glasses help to prevent possible irritation of the skin or eyes.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Deployed Inflator Module > Page 9880
Figure 22
CAUTION: Immediately following the deployment of an air bag, the metal surfaces of the inflator
module are very hot, Do not place the deployed inflator module near any flammable objects. Walt
for about ten minutes before touching any metal surface of the inflator module. Disregarding these
precautions may cause fire or personal injury.
The metal canister and the area surrounding the inflatable restraint steering wheel module are very
hot. Do not touch the metal areas of the inflatable restraint steering wheel module for about ten
minutes after deployment. If you must move the deployed inflatable restraint steering wheel
module, use caution. Always wear gloves and handle the inflatable restraint steering wheel module
by the air bag or the vinyl trim (Figure 22).
29. Disconnect the pigtail adapter from the inflatable restraint steering wheel module as soon after
the deployment as possible. This will prevent the
hot inflatable restraint steering wheel module canister from damaging the pigtail adapter, or the SIR
Deployment Harness. The pigtail adapter and the SIR Deployment Harness are reusable.
30. Inspect the pigtail adaptor, and the SIR Deployment Harness for damage after each use.
Replace the pigtail adapter, or the SIR Deployment
Harness, as necessary.
31. Allow the deployed inflatable restraint steering wheel module to cool for at least 10 minutes.
Dispose of the deployed inflatable restraint steering
wheel module through the normal refuse channels.
32. Wash your hands with a mild soap and water.
NOTICE: The remaining steps are to be followed in the unlikely event that the inflatable restraint
steering wheel module did not deploy after following these procedures.
33. Make sure that you disconnect the SIR Deployment Harness from the power source. Make sure
that you have shorted the two banana plugs
together (Figure 15).
34. Disconnect the pigtail adapter from the inflatable restraint steering wheel module.
CAUTION: When you are carrying an undeployed inflator module:
^ Do not carry the inflator module by the wires or connector on the inflator module.
^ Make sure the bag opening points away from you.
When you are storing an undeployed inflator module, make sure the bag opening points away from
the surface on which the inflator module rests. When you are storing a steering column, do not rest
the column with the bag opening facing down and the column vertical. Provide free space for the
air bag to expand in case of an accidental deployment. Otherwise, personal injury may result.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Repair > Deployed Inflator Module > Page 9881
35. Temporarily store the inflatable restraint steering wheel module with its vinyl trim cover facing
up. 36. Call the Technical Assistance group for further assistance.
Instrument Panel Module
CAUTION: In order to prevent accidental deployment of the air bag which could cause personal
injury, do not dispose of an undeployed inflator module as normal shop waste. The undeployed
inflator module contains substances that could cause severe illness or personal injury If the sealed
container is damaged during disposal. Use the following deployment procedures to safely dispose
of an undeployed inflator module. Failure to dispose of an inflator module as instructed may be a
violation of federal, state, or local laws.
General Motors dealers should refer to the latest General Motors Service Bulletins for live
(undeployed) inflatable restraint I/P module scrapping and disposal procedures. All others should
contact a local General Motors dealership for live inflatable restraint I/P module scrapping and
disposal procedures. Dispose of deployed inflatable restraint I/P modules through normal refuse
channels.
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Repair > Deployed Inflator Module > Page 9882
Air Bag: Service and Repair Handling/Shipping/Scrapping
Handling A Deployed Inflator Module
After the inflator module has deployed, the surface of the air bag may contain a powdery residue.
This powder consists primarily of cornstarch (used to lubricate the bag as it inflates), and
by-products of the chemical reaction. The deployment reaction produces sodium hydroxide dust
(similar to lye soap). The sodium hydroxide quickly reacts with the atmospheric moisture. This
atmospheric moisture converts the sodium hydroxide into sodium carbonate and sodium
bicarbonate (baking soda). Therefore, you will probably find no sodium hydroxide present after the
deployment. As a precaution gloves and safety glasses are recommended. Gloves and safety
glasses help to prevent possible irritation of the skin or eyes.
Scrapping Procedures
During the course of a vehicle's useful life, certain situations may arise which will necessitate the
disposal of a live (undeployed) inflator module. This information covers proper procedures for
disposing of a live inflator module. Before you dispose of a live inflator module, you must deploy
the inflator module. Do not dispose of live inflator modules through normal refuse channels.
CAUTION: In order to prevent accidental deployment of the air bag which could cause personal
injury, do not dispose of an undeployed inflator module as normal shop waste. The undeployed
inflator module contains substances that could cause severe illness or personal injury if the sealed
container is damaged during disposal. Use the following deployment procedures to safely dispose
of an undeployed inflator module. Failure to dispose of an inflator module as instructed may be a
violation of federal, state, or local laws.
Do not deploy the air bag(s) in the following situations:
^ If you replace an inflator module under warranty. You may need to return the inflator module,
undeployed, to Delphi Interiors & Lightings Systems. Refer to the latest service bulletin regarding
SIR shipping procedures.
^ If a vehicle is the subject of a Product Liability Report related to the SIR system and is subject to
a Preliminary Investigation (GM-1241). DO NOT ALTER the SIR system in any manner. Refer to
the latest service bulletin on SIR shipping procedures.
^ If a vehicle is involved in a campaign affecting the inflator modules. Follow instructions in the
campaign service bulletin for proper SIR handling and shipping procedures.
You can deploy an inflator module inside or outside of the vehicle. The method you use depends
upon the final disposition of the vehicle. Read Deployment Outside of the Vehicle and Deployment
Inside the Vehicle to decide whether to deploy the inflator module inside or outside of the vehicle.
See: Deployment Procedures
Shipping Procedures For Live (Undeployed) Inflator Modules
Service personnel should refer to the latest service bulletins for proper SIR inflator module shipping
procedures.
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Repair > Deployed Inflator Module > Page 9883
Air Bag: Service and Repair
Install or Connect
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Inflatable restraint I/P module to the crosscar beam. 2. Fasteners to the inflatable restraint I/P
module.
TIGHTEN
^ Fasteners to 10.0 N.m (89 lb. in.).
3. Electrical connector and the Connector Position Assurance (CPA). 4. Instrument panel
compartment. Refer to instrument panel compartment in Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning
Indicators.
^ Enable the SIR system. Refer to Enabling the SIR System. See: Air Bag(s) Arming and
Disarming/Service and Repair
Preliminary Precautions
After the inflator module has been deployed, the surface of the air bag may contain a powdery
residue. This powder consists primarily of cornstarch (used to lubricate the bag as it inflates) and
by-products of the chemical reaction. Sodium hydroxide dust (similar to lye soap) is produced as a
by-product of the deployment reaction. The sodium hydroxide then quickly reacts with atmospheric
moisture and is converted to sodium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate (baking soda). Therefore,
it is unlikely that sodium hydroxide will be present after deployment. As with many service
procedures, you should wear gloves and safety glasses.
Remove or Disconnect
Description
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
^ Disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System. See: Air Bag(s) Arming and
Disarming/Service and Repair
1. Instrument panel compartment. Refer to instrument panel compartment in Instrument Panel,
Gauges and Warning Indicators. 2. Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and the electrical
connector. 3. Fasteners from the inflatable restraint I/P module. 4. Inflatable restraint I/P module
from the vehicle.
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Repair > Deployed Inflator Module > Page 9884
CAUTION: When you are carrying an undeployed inflator module:
^ Do not carry the inflator module by the wires or connector on the inflator module.
^ Make sure the bag opening points away from you.
When you are storing an undeployed inflator module, make sure the bag opening points away from
the surface on which the inflator module rests. When you are storing a steering column, do not
reset the column with the bag opening facing down and the column vertical. Provide free space for
the air bag to expand in case of an accidental deployment. Otherwise, personal injury may result.
IMPORTANT
^ The following procedures should be utilized in the event that inflatable restraint I/P module
mounting holes or fasteners are damaged to the extent that the inflatable restraint I/P module can
no longer be properly mounted.
1. Remove stripped fastener and discard. 2. Attach inflatable restraint I/P module with new fastener
GM P/N 25601790.
TIGHTEN
^ Fastener to 10.0 N.m (89 lb. in.).
Use hand tools only to achieve fastener torque. This will prevent stripping of the replacement
fastener.
Inside of Vehicle (Vehicle Scrapping Procedure)
Deploy the inflator modules inside the vehicle when destroying the vehicle. Deploy the inflator
modules inside the vehicle when salvaging the vehicle for component parts. This includes, but is
not limited to the following situations:
^ The vehicle has completed its useful life.
^ Irreparable damage occurs to the vehicle in a non-deployment type accident.
^ Irreparable damage occurs to the vehicle during theft.
^ You are salvaging the vehicle for component parts to use on a vehicle with a different Vehicle
Identification Number (VIN) as opposed to rebuilding as the same VIN. Never use SIR components
from another vehicle. This ensures SIR system integrity. Always use new SIR system components,
except when obtaining re-manufactured parts from an authorized General Motors dealer.
CAUTION: In order to prevent accidental deployment of the air bag which could cause personal
injury, do not dispose of an undeployed inflator module as normal shop waste. The undeployed
inflator module contains substances that could cause severe illness or personal injury if the sealed
container is damaged during disposal. Use the following deployment procedures to safely dispose
of an undeployed inflator module. Failure to dispose of an inflator module as instructed may be a
violation of federal, state, or local laws.
1. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK position. 2. Remove the key. 3. Put on safety glasses. 4.
Remove all loose objects from the front seats. 5. Disconnect the inflatable restraint steering wheel
module, yellow 2-way connector. This connector is located near the base of the steering column. 6.
Cut the inflatable restraint steering wheel module yellow 2-way harness connector from the vehicle.
Leave at least 160 mm (6 inches) of wire at the
connector (Figure 23).
7. Strip 13 mm (0.5 inch) of insulation from each wire lead of the connector (Figure 23). 8. Cut two
4.6 m (15 feet) deployment wires from 0.8 mm2 (18 gauge) or thicker multi-strand wire. Use these
wires to fabricate the driver
deployment harness.
9. Strip 13 mm (0.5 inch) of insulation from both ends of the wires cut in the previous step.
CAUTION: When you are deploying an inflator module for disposal, perform the deployment
procedures in the order listed:
^ Wear safety glasses throughout the procedures.
^ Make sure the area around the inflator module is clear of all people and loose or flammable
objects.
^ Short the deployment harness wires as instructed.
^ Connect the deployment harness to the inflator module before you connect it to the power
source.
^ Connect the deployment harness to the power source to immediately deploy the air bag.
Failure to follow the procedures in the order listed may result in personal injury.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Deployed Inflator Module > Page 9885
Figure 23
Figure 24
Figure 25
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Deployed Inflator Module > Page 9886
Figure 26
10. Short the wires by twisting together one end from each (Figure 24). Deployment wires shall
remain shorted, and not connected to a power source
until you are ready to deploy the air bag.
11. Twist together one connector wire lead to one deployment wire (1). The connection must be
mechanically secure (Figure 25). 12. Bend flat the twisted connection that you made in the
previous step. Secure the connection by wrapping tightly with electrical tape (2). This will
also insulate the connection (Figure 25).
13. Twist together, bend and tape the remaining connector wire lead to the remaining deployment
wire (3) (Figure 25). 14. Connect the deployment harness to the inflatable restraint steering wheel
module, yellow 2-way connector at the base of the steering column. 15. Route the deployment
harness out the driver side of the vehicle (Figure 26).
Figure 27
CAUTION: When you are deploying an inflator module for disposal, perform the deployment
procedures in the order listed:
^ Wear safety glasses throughout the procedures.
^ Make sure the area around the inflator module is clear of all people and loose or flammable
objects.
^ Short the deployment harness wires as instructed.
^ Connect the deployment harness to the inflator module before you connect it to the power
source.
^ Connect the deployment harness to the power source to immediately deploy the air bag.
Failure to follow the procedures in the order listed may result in personal injury.
16. Disconnect the inflatable restraint I/P module, yellow 2-way connector. This connector is
located behind the Instrument Cluster compartment door. 17. Cut the inflatable restraint I/P module
harness connector from the vehicle. Leave at least 160 mm (6 inches) of wire at the connector
(Figure 27). 18. Strip 13 mm (0.5 inch) of insulation from each wire lead of the connector (Figure
27). 19. Cut two 6.1 m (20 feet) deployment wires from 0.8 mm2 (18 gauge) or thicker multi-strand
wire. Use these wires to fabricate the passenger
deployment harness.
20. Strip 13 mm (0.5 inch) of insulation from both ends of the wires cut in the previous step. 21.
Short the wires by twisting together one end of each (Figure 28). The deployment wires shall
remain shorted and not connected to a power source
until you are ready to deploy the air bag.
Figure 28
CAUTION: When you are deploying an inflator module for disposal, perform the deployment
procedures in the order listed:
^ Wear safety glasses throughout the procedures.
^ Make sure the area around the inflator module is clear of all people and loose or flammable
objects.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Repair > Deployed Inflator Module > Page 9887
^ Short the deployment harness wires as instructed.
^ Connect the deployment harness to the inflator module before you connect it to the power
source.
^ Connect the deployment harness to the power source to immediately deploy the air bag.
Failure to follow the procedures in the order listed may result in personal injury.
22. Twist together one connector wire lead to one deployment wire (1). The connection must be
mechanically secure (Figure 29). 23. Bend flat the twisted connection that you made in the
previous step. Secure the connection by wrapping tightly with electrical tape (2). This will
also insulate the connection (Figure 29).
24. Twist together, bend and tape the remaining connector wire lead to the remaining deployment
wire (3) (Figure 29). 25. Connect the deployment harness to the inflatable restraint I/P module,
yellow 2-way connector. 26. Route the deployment harness out the passenger side of the vehicle
(Figure 30). 27. Be sure to clear the inside of the vehicle and the area surrounding the vehicle of
any people. Clear the vehicle of all loose or flammable objects. 28. Stretch the driver and
passenger deployment harnesses to their full length (Figures 26 and 30). 29. Completely cover
windshield area and front door window openings with a drop cloth, blanket or similar item. This
reduces the possibility of injury
due to possible fragmentation of the vehicle's glass or interior.
30. Notify everyone in the immediate area that you intend to deploy the air bags. The deployment
will be very loud. This may startle any uninformed
people in the area.
31. Place a power source near the shorted end of the SIR Deployment Harness. Use a vehicle
battery when available, but always use a power source
that complies to the following: ^
12 volts minimum.
^ 2 amps minimum.
32. Separate the two ends of the driver deployment harness wires (Figure 31).
CAUTION: When you are deploying an inflator module for disposal, perform the deployment
procedures in the order listed:
^ Wear safety glasses throughout the procedures.
^ Make sure the area around the inflator module is clear of all people and loose or flammable
objects.
^ Short the deployment harness wires as instructed.
^ Connect the deployment harness to the inflator module before you connect it to the power
source.
^ Connect the deployment harness to the power source to immediately deploy the air bag.
Failure to follow the procedures in the order listed may result in personal injury.
NOTICE: The rapid gas expansion involved with deploying an air bag will be very loud. Notify all
people in the immediate area that you intend to deploy the inflator modules.
Figure 29
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Deployed Inflator Module > Page 9888
Figure 30
33. Connect the driver deployment harness wires to the power source to immediately deploy the
inflatable restraint steering wheel module (Figure 31).
Figure 31
Figure 32
34. Disconnect the deployment harness wires from the power source. 35. Separate the two ends of
the passenger deployment harness wires (Figure 32). 36. Connect the passenger deployment
harness wires to a power source. This will immediately deploy the inflatable restraint I/P module
(Figure 32).
After the inflator module has deployed, the surface of the air bag may contain a powdery residue.
This powder consists primarily of cornstarch (used to lubricate the bag as it inflates), and
by-products of the chemical reaction. The deployment reaction produces sodium hydroxide dust
(similar to lye soap). The sodium hydroxide quickly reacts with the atmospheric moisture. This
atmospheric moisture converts the sodium hydroxide into sodium carbonate and sodium
bicarbonate (baking soda). Therefore, you will probably find no sodium hydroxide present after the
deployment. As a precaution gloves and safety glasses are recommended. Gloves and safety
glasses help to prevent possible irritation of the skin or eyes.
CAUTION: Immediately following the deployment of an air bag, the metal surfaces of the inflator
module are very hot. Do not place the deployed inflator module near any flammable objects. Walt
for about ten minutes before touching any metal surface of the inflator module. Disregarding these
precautions may cause fire or personal injury.
The metal canister and the area surrounding the inflator module are very hot. Do not touch the
metal areas of the inflator module for about ten minutes after deployment. If you must move the
deployed inflator module, use caution. Always wear gloves and handle the inflator module by the
air bag or the vinyl trim (Figure 22).
37. Disconnect the deployment harness wires from the power source. 38. Short the driver
deployment harness wires by twisting together one end from each of the wires together. Repeat
this procedure for the passenger
deployment harness.
39. Carefully remove the drop cloth from the vehicle. 40. Disconnect the driver deployment harness
and the passenger deployment harness from the vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Repair > Deployed Inflator Module > Page 9889
41. Discard both deployment harnesses. 42. After deploying both air bags, you may scrap the
vehicle in the same manner as a non-SIR equipped vehicle. 43. In the unlikely event that either or
both of the inflator modules did not deploy after following these procedures, proceed immediately
with Steps 44
through 46.
44. Remove the undeployed inflator module(s) from the vehicle. See:
CAUTION: When you are carrying an undeployed inflator module:
^ Do not carry the inflator module by the wires or connector on the inflator module.
^ Make sure the bag opening points away from you.
When you are storing an undeployed inflator module, make sure the bag opening points away from
the surface on which the inflator module rests. When you are storing a steering column, do not rest
the column with the bag opening facing down and the column vertical. Provide free space for the
air bag to expand in case of an accidental deployment. Otherwise, personal injury may result.
45. Temporarily store the inflator module with its vinyl trim cover facing up. 46. Call the Technical
Assistance group for further assistance.
Steering Wheel Module
TOOL REQUIRED:
J 38826 SIR Deployment Harness
Deploy the inflator module(s) outside of the vehicle when you intend to return the vehicle to service.
Situations that require deploying the inflator module outside the vehicle include the following:
^ Using the SIR Diagnostics, you determine the inflator module does not function correctly.
^ The inflator module is cosmetically damaged such as a scratch or rip in the cover.
Figure 15
Figure 16
Figure 17
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Deployed Inflator Module > Page 9890
^ The inflator module pigtail (if equipped) is damaged.
^ The inflator module connector is damaged.
^ An inflator module connector terminal is damaged.
Deployment and disposal of a malfunctioning inflator module is subject to any required retention
period.
You must follow these inflator module deployment procedures exactly. Always wear safety glasses
during this deployment procedure. Do not remove your safety glasses until the deployed inflator
module is scrapped or shipped. Before performing the deployment procedures you should be
familiar with servicing the SIR system and with proper handling of the inflator module. Procedures
should be read fully before they are performed. The following procedures requires the use of:
^ J 38826 SIR Deployment Harness.
^ The appropriate pigtail adapter.
Do not attempt the procedure without J 38826 SIR Deployment Harness and the adapter.
CAUTION: When you are deploying an inflator module for disposal, perform the deployment
procedures in the order listed:
^ Wear safety glasses throughout the procedures.
^ Clear a space on the ground about 1.85 meters (6 feet) in diameter where the inflator module will
be deployed.
^ Make sure the area around the inflator module is clear of all people and loose or flammable
objects.
^ Short the deployment harness wires as instructed.
^ Connect the deployment harness to the inflator module before you connect it to the power
source.
^ Connect the deployment harness to the power source to immediately deploy the air bag.
Failure to follow the procedures in the order listed may result in personal injury.
IMPORTANT
^ This information applies only to inflatable restraint steering wheel modules. Refer to Deployment
Outside of the Vehicle (Inflatable Restraint I/P Module) for information on inflatable restraint I/P
module scrapping. See: Deployment Procedures/Outside of Vehicle/Instrument Panel Module
1. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK position. 2. Remove the key. 3. Put on safety glasses.
Figure 16
Figure 17
4. Inspect J 38826 SIR Deployment Harness and appropriate pigtail adapter for damage.
^ If damage occurs to the SIR Deployment Harness or the pigtail adapter, then obtain a
replacement.
5. Short the two SIR Deployment Harness leads together by fully seating one banana plug into the
other.
^ Keep the SIR Deployment Harness (1) shorted until the air bag is to be deployed (Figure 15).
^ Do not connect the SIR Deployment Harness to a power source until the air bag is to be deployed
(Figure 15).
6. Connect the appropriate pigtail adapter (2) to the SIR Deployment Harness (Figure 15). 7.
Remove the inflatable restraint steering wheel module from the vehicle.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Repair > Deployed Inflator Module > Page 9891
8. Remove the horn lead from the back of the inflatable restraint steering wheel module, if
applicable. 9. Remove the redundant steering wheel control lead(s) from the back of the inflatable
restraint steering wheel module, if applicable.
10. Remove all horn buttons and steering wheel control buttons from the inflatable restraint
steering wheel module, if applicable.
CAUTION: When you are carrying an undeployed inflator module:
^ Do not carry the inflator module by the wires or connector on the inflator module.
^ Make sure the bag opening points away from you.
When you are storing an undeployed inflator module, make sure the bag opening points away from
the surface on which the inflator module rests. When you are storing a steering column, do not rest
the column with the bag opening facing down and the column vertical. Provide free space for the
air bag to expand in case of an accidental deployment. Otherwise, personal injury may result.
11. Place the inflatable restraint steering wheel module with its vinyl trim cover facing up and away
from the surface on a work bench or another
surface (Figure 16).
12. Place the inflatable restraint steering wheel module away from all loose or flammable objects.
13. Clear a space on the ground about 1.85 m (6 ft.) in diameter where you intend to deploy the
inflatable restraint steering wheel module. If possible,
use a paved, outdoor location free of activity. Otherwise, use a space free of activity on the shop
floor. Make sure you have sufficient ventilation.
14. Make sure no loose or flammable objects are within the deployment area (Figure 17). 15. Place
the inflatable restraint steering wheel module in the space just cleared, with its vinyl trim cover
facing up (Figure 17). 16. Extend the SIR Deployment Harness and the pigtail adapter to full length
from the inflatable restraint steering wheel module (Figure 18). 17. Place a power source near the
shorted end of the SIR Deployment Harness. Use a vehicle battery when available, but always use
a power source
that complies to the following: ^
12 volts minimum.
^ 2 amps minimum.
IMPORTANT
^ Firmly seat the pigtail adapter into the inflatable restraint steering wheel module connector.
Failure to fully seat the connectors may result in nondeployment of the inflator module.
Figure 18
Figure 19
18. Connect the inflatable restraint steering wheel module (1) to the pigtail adapter (2) on the SIR
Deployment Harness (3) (Figure 19).
^ The deployment harness shall remain shorted until you are ready to deploy the air bag.
^ Do not connect the SIR Deployment Harness to a power source until you are ready to deploy the
air bag.
^ The inflator module will immediately deploy when you connect the power source.
19. Clear the area of all people and loose or flammable objects (Figure 17). 20. Make sure that you
place the inflatable restraint steering wheel module with its vinyl trim cover facing up.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
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Repair > Deployed Inflator Module > Page 9892
Figure 20
21. Notify all people in the immediate area before you deploy the inflatable restraint steering wheel
module.
^ An inflatable restraint steering wheel module deployment is very loud.
^ The deployment may startle any uninformed people in the area.
22. Separate the two banana plugs on the SIR Deployment Harness (Figure 20).
CAUTION: When you are deploying an inflator module for disposal, perform the deployment
procedures in the order listed:
^ Wear safety glasses throughout the procedures.
^ Make sure the area around the inflator module is clear of all people and loose or flammable
objects.
^ Short the deployment harness wires as instructed.
^ Connect the deployment harness to the inflator module before you connect it to the power
source.
^ Connect the deployment harness to the power source to immediately deploy the air bag.
Failure to follow the procedures in the order listed may result in personal injury.
NOTICE: When the air bag deploys, the inflatable restraint steering wheel module may jump about
30 cm (1 foot) vertically. This is a normal reaction of the inflatable restraint steering wheel module
to the force of the rapid gas expansion inside the air bag.
Figure 21
NOTICE: The rapid gas expansion involved with deploying an air bag is very loud. Notify all people
in the immediate area that you intend to deploy the inflatable restraint steering wheel module.
23. Connect the SIR Deployment Harness wires to the power source. This immediately deploys the
inflatable restraint steering wheel module (Figure
21).
24. Use a vehicle battery when available, but always use a power source that complies to the
following:
^ 12 volts minimum.
^ 2 amps minimum.
25. Disconnect the SIR Deployment Harness from the power source. 26. Short the SIR Deployment
Harness leads together by fully seating one banana plug into the other (Figure 15). 27. In the
unlikely event that the inflatable restraint steering wheel module did not deploy after following these
procedures, proceed immediately with
Steps 33 through 36. If the inflatable restraint steering wheel module did deploy, proceed with
Steps 28 through 32.
28. Put on a pair of shop gloves to protect your hands from possible heat and irritation when
handling the deployed inflatable restraint steering wheel
module (Figure 22).
After the inflatable restraint steering wheel module has deployed, the surface of the air bag may
contain a powdery residue. This powder consists primarily of cornstarch (used to lubricate the bag
as it inflates), and by-products of the chemical reaction. The deployment reaction produces sodium
hydroxide dust (similar to lye soap). The sodium hydroxide quickly reacts with the atmospheric
moisture. This atmospheric moisture converts the sodium hydroxide into sodium carbonate and
sodium bicarbonate (baking soda). Therefore, you will probably find no sodium hydroxide present
after the deployment. As a precaution gloves and safety glasses are recommended. Gloves and
safety glasses help to prevent possible irritation of the skin or eyes.
Chevrolet Malibu Workshop Manual (V6-191 3.1L VIN M SFI (1997))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Deployed Inflator Module > Page 9893
Figure 22
CAUTION: Immediately following the deployment of an air bag, the metal surfaces of the inflator
module are very hot, Do not place the deployed inflator module near any flammable objects. Walt
for about ten minutes before touching any metal surface of the inflator module. Disregarding these
precautions may cause fire or personal injury.
The metal canister and the area surrounding the inflatable restraint steering wheel module are very
hot. Do not touch the metal areas of the inflatable restraint steering wheel module for about ten
minutes after deployment. If you must move the deployed inflatable restraint steering wheel
module, use caution. Always wear gloves and handle the inflatable restraint steering wheel module
by the air bag or the vinyl trim (Figure 22).
29. Disconnect the pigtail adapter from the inflatable restraint steering wheel module as soon after
the deployment as possible. This will prevent the
hot inflatable restraint steering wheel module canister from damaging the pigtail adapter, or the SIR
Deployment Harness. The pigtail adapter and the SIR Deployment Harness are reusable.
30. Inspect the pigtail adaptor, and the SIR Deployment Harness for damage after each use.
Replace the pigtail adapter, or the SIR Deployment
Harness, as necessary.
31. Allow the deployed inflatable restraint steering wheel module to cool for at least 10 minutes.
Dispose of the deployed inflatable restraint steering
wheel module through the normal refuse channels.
32. Wash your hands with a mild soap and water.
NOTICE: The remaining steps are to be followed in the unlikely event that the inflatable restraint
steering wheel module did not deploy after following these procedures.
33. Make sure that you disconnect the SIR Deployment Harness from the power source. Make sure
that you have shorted the two banana plugs
together (Figure 15).
34. Disconnect the pigtail adapter from the inflatable restraint steering wheel module.
CAUTION: When you are carrying an undeployed inflator module:
^ Do not carry the inflator module by the wires or connector on the inflator module.
^ Make sure the bag opening points away from you.
When you are storing an undeployed inflator module, make sure the bag opening points away from
the surface on w